escape routes

INTRODUCTION

HAVE YOU EVER DREAMT of escaping to those beautiful, barely populated countryside corners of England? Of swinging your leg

over the saddle and setting off along narrow lanes, gliding through spectacular scenery in your own sweet time, and pausing wherever you wish? When you’re out on your bike, nothing can stop you. No queues, no parking spaces, no petrol required – just pure and simple pedal power is all you need. So where do you fancy going today?

The back roads of England are sprinkled with idyllic villages, hidden pubs, and secret country gardens just waiting to be discovered, and this book will show you exactly where to find them. I’ve found some real gems – in the unlikeliest of places: a sun-soaked vineyard in a valley less than an hour from London (see p98), a hamlet deep in the Norfolk lanes where the clocks seem to have stopped back in the 18th century (see p136), and a gourmet chocolate shop in the middle of the Lake District’s moors (see p234). This, however, is just scratching the surface...

Take a trip through the book and you’ll find 60 glorious bike rides that will lead you far away from the madding crowds, to a county’s most intimate landscape secrets; places where time slows down to a luxurious crawl. It’s not about how many miles you do, the number of calories you burn, or how quickly you can go; it’s all about being out in the fresh air, with the sun on your face and the breeze blowing through your hair. And who cares if you ride up that hill, or decide to push? Sometimes it’s nice just to stop for a second and enjoy the view…

Whatever you’re riding – a second-hand jalopy you bought through the free-ads, the latest road bike with all the trick bits, or a ‘sit-up-and-beg’ with a basket on the front – there are routes in here to suit everyone and their chosen wheels.

You’ll find Jaw-dropping Views, Magical History Tours, and rides that take you Beside the Seaside – or perhaps you’d prefer a journey that’s Best for Pubs, or one that will take you Down by the River?

See pages 8–19 for more tips on where to find a route to perfectly match your mood.

One of my favourites is the ride from Freshford to Avoncliff (see p54), taking you through a lush valley, where you can stop off for a stroll round an Italianate garden, before calling in at a riverside pub and making your way along a canal. You can count on one hand the number of cars you’ll see all day.Actually, the ride that starts at a swish hotel and leads you through the Yorkshire Dales to a set of dramatic waterfalls at Aysgarth (see p220) might just pip it to the post… It’s difficult to tell really – every one is a corker that uncovers something special.

These are much more than just bike rides, they’re Escape Routes. Tried and tested recipes for fabulous stress-busting weekends away (or longer breaks?), with suggestions about where to stop and what to see along the way.

Having pedalled my way through the network of narrow lanes that criss-crosses England, and poked my nose into rustic nooks and crannies from Cornwall to Northumberland, I’ve personally selected each of the rides in this book (and made all the wrong turns so you don’t have to).

Each of the rides begins (and ends) at a smart B&B, bijou independent hotel, or cosy self-catering cottage, because fluffy towels and comfy beds are important, too. And, aside from the sights you’ll see when you’re out in the saddle, I’ve outlined things you might want to do when you’re not cycling.

Every ride is brought to life with a personal account of all the sights, sounds, and experiences you’ll encounter; a gorgeous hand-drawn map to help you find your way around; and detailed directions, too (always useful). One more thing before I go: all the mileages mentioned are approximate (to the nearest few hundred metres or so); so don’t shout at me if they’re a bit out on occasion. Besides, you won’t be worrying about that when you see the views.

So what are you waiting for?

4 Introduction

23

PLYMOUTH

ST IVES

SOUTHAMPTON

CARDIFF BRISTOL

LEICESTER

CAMBRIDGE

NORWICH

IPSWICH

HEXHAM

OXFORD

GLOUCESTER

TELFORD

PENRITH

NOTTINGHAM STOKE-ON-TRENT

DERBY

COVENTRY

SHEFFIELDLIVERPOOL

BIRMINGHAM

MANCHESTER

KINGSTON UPON HULL

YORK

NEWCASTLE UPON TYNE

MIDDLESBROUGH

CARLISLE

LEEDS

BOURNEMOUTH

WELLS-NEXT-THE-SEA

ALNMOUTH

RICHMOND

EAST ANGLIA

LAKE DISTRICT

NORTH WEST

YORKSHIRE

MIDLANDS

AROUND LONDON

DEVON AND CORNWALL

SOUTH WESTSOUTH EAST

NORTH EAST

LONDON

0 20 40 60 80km1

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3

4

5

6 7

8

9

10

11

12

14

15

16

1718

19

20 21

22

23

24

25

26

2728

2930

3132

33

34

35

3637

38

39

40

41

42

43

44

454647

48

13

4950

51

52

53

54

55

56 57

58

59

60

1 Gwithian to Coombe 22 2 Tredethy to Pencarrow 26 3 Camelford to Delabole 28 4 Tavistock to Horndon 32 5 Mortehoe to Croyde 36 6 Kenton to Topsham 40 7 Wareham to Corfe Castle 46 8 Mells to Frome 50 9 Freshford to Avoncliff 54 10 Tetbury to Sherston 58 11 Minchinhampton to Nailsworth 62 12 Guiting Power to Broadway 66 13 East End to East Boldre 72 14 Pagham Harbour to West Wittering 76 15 Ditchling to Wivelsfield Green 82 16 Staplecross to Bodiam Castle 86 17 Old Wives Lees to Faversham 88 18 Deal to Ringwould 92 19 Dorking to Coldharbour 98 20 Aldbury to Frithsden 102 21 Ayot St Lawrence to ‘Old’ Welwyn 106 22 Finchingfield to Great Bardfield 110 23 Tillingham to Bradwell Waterside 112 24 West Mersea to Cudmore Grove 118 25 Butley to Orford 124 26 Westleton to Walberswick 128 27 Honingham to Lyng 132 28 Foulsham to Heydon 136 29 Wells-next-the-Sea to Wighton 140 30 Sedgeford to Snettisham 144 31 Oxhill to Brailes 150 32 Clifford Chambers to Hidcote Gardens 154 33 Ashford Bowdler to Pipe Aston 158 34 Shottle to Carsington Water 162 35 Bonsall to Winster 166 36 Whitwell to Normanton 170 37 Hebden Bridge to Todmorden 176 38 Laneshawbridge to Black Lane Ends 178 39 Sawley to Bolton-by-Bowland 182 40 Cow Ark to Bashall Town 186 41 Lancaster to Crook O'Lune 190 42 Arnside to Leighton Hall 194 43 Colton to Bolton Percy 200 44 Kirkby Malzeard to the Drovers Inn 204 45 East Witton to Jervaulx Abbey 210 46 West Witton to Melmerby 214 47 Bainbridge to Aysgarth Falls 220 48 Brompton-on-Swale to Gilling West 224 49 Brough to Sandford 230 50 Ravenstonedale to Orton 234 51 Far Sawrey to Wray Castle 238 52 Lakeside to Near Sawrey 240 53 Coniston to Little Langdale 244 54 Moresby to Dean 250 55 High Keenley Fell to Allendale 256 56 Carraw to Simonburn 260 57 Matfen to Belsay Hall and Castle 264 58 Alnham to Thropton 268 59 Craster to Alnmouth 272 60 North Sunderland to Bamburgh 278

Magical History Tour p8

No Ride Page Down by the Riverp10

Beside the Seasidep12

Jaw-dropping Views p14

Best for Pubsp16

Taste Tourp18

Ride Locator 7

The old-fashioned fishing

boats at Deal, p92

The view across West

Itchenor’s waterfront – the

perfect spot for a break, p76

Lined up for inspection: the beach huts at Southwold, p128

Beach huts on Mersea Island – less than two hours from London... p118

Make some footprints in the miles of

golden sand at Mortehoe, p36

Godrevy Point lighthouse: inspiration for the Virginia Woolf novel, p22

BESIDE THE SEASIDEFish and chips and fresh salty air. There’s nothing quite like the English seaside – especially when you’re out on your bike. You can freewheel through fishing villages in Suffolk, stop off at surf shacks in Cornwall, and cruise along a cliff-top path on the Northumberland coast, all with some good honest pedal power. Throw a towel in your backpack, whack on a dollop of sun cream, and off you go. Ah, yes… it’s good to be by the sea.

The beach huts of Wells-next-the-

Sea in all their glory... p140

p118Stop for fresh lobster at Craster, p272

p128

Stop for a pint of Jail Ale at the Trout and Tipple, near Tavistock, p32

p82

p58

p88

p112

, Drink a toast to Henry Adams at Buckler’s Hard –

former master ship-builder for Lord Nelson p72

BEST FOR PUBSWhat do you fancy, a Headless Peg, half a Golden Bolt, or

maybe a drop of Tally Wacker? When you’ve been pedalling

through the lanes with the breeze against your cheeks, a pint

of bizarrely named English ale (unless you’re a cider drinker,

of course) is just the ticket. But whatever your tipple, there’s a

lot to love about the Great British pub. Those wonky walls, that

ancient fireplace – and, of course, the beer garden… From

the Elephant’s Nest in Devon, to the Twice Brewed Inn way

up on the Scottish border, you’ll see all sorts of idiosyncratic

boozers – many with unfathomable names – on these routes.

How about one more for the road?

p112

... for proper pints and

olde worlde charm, p268

p178

No traffic to worry

about in West

Itchenor, p76

Blissed-out sunny days at the Brocket

Arms in Ayot St Lawrence, p106

DEVON AND CORNWALL

(Beside the seaside) Devon and Cornwall 21

DEVON AND CORNWALL

MORTEHOE IS ONE OF THOSE PLACES that instantly makes you forget everyday stress. Looking out to sea, with an enormous

electric-blue sky overhead and the contours of the coast wrapped reassuringly around the countryside like the arms of an old friend, it’s difficult to worry about anything – except, perhaps, where your next ice cream is coming from.

Beginning at the bright-and-breezy Victoria House, with its cornflower-blue window frames and vanilla walls, you take a left and head down the silky smooth road as the bay stretches out to infinity on your right. Along the way you’ll pass rows of petite guest houses with immaculate and colourful rockery gardens – reminiscent of those in photos of 1950s street parties.

The pedalling soon pays off when you get your first glimpse of beachy heaven: golden sand and small white waves foaming excitedly as they race each other up the shore. Allow your eye to follow the line of the coast and you’ll see the headland jutting out to sea in the distance; this is Baggy Point, and on the other side of it lies Croyde, and your lunch.

Mortehoe trickles to an end at the bottom of the hill, and you cruise right, around the small bay before reaching Woolacombe, where the grass gives way to black rocks – a great crabbing spot. You’ll reach a junction facing a collection of bars and to your right is an expanse of sand that makes you want to kick off your shoes and sprint down to the sea. If you can resist the urge, go right and climb up through heathery scrubland on towards Croyde.

As you pootle along the coast, the breeze carries distant sounds from the beach below – excited barks of a dog, kids’ laughter – but these soon fade as the dirt track becomes a path sheltered by brambles.

Every now and again you get a glimpse of gorgeous beach below, entreating you to stop for a swim break, or five, along the couple of miles to Croyde’s tiny village, where a row of pubs, café-

MORTEHOE TO CROYDEFrom one incredible beach to another...

5

bars, and an old-fashioned ice cream shop (rhubarb and custard cone, anyone?) lie between you and the shimmering beach on your right.

If your legs are up to it, carry on for a couple more miles to Saunton Sands, a three-mile sweep of golden sand long enough to land a Hercules on. Otherwise head to Georgeham via rows of pink and white cottages and neatly trimmed hedges. After a well-earned pint at the Lower House, brave the climb out of the village to reach stunning views of fields undulating towards a sea glinting in the afternoon sun.

Now simply coast down the steep hill back into Woolacombe and on to the welcoming arms of Victoria House to watch the sun set over the bay.

36 Devon and Cornwall

THE ROUTE

DISTANCE 22 MILES

DIFFICULTY

START Victoria House

Chapel Hill, Mortehoe, Devon, EX34 7DZ

» Head downhill and left from Victoria

House, following the coast along to

Woolacombe. When you reach the first

junction (in Woolacombe), turn right and

head up Challacombe Hill.

» Take the first right, into Marine Drive car

park, and follow it along the coast to the

end. Eventually it becomes a dirt track,

and then a narrow path: continue until you

emerge again on to a tarmac road.

» At the junction: turn right, for Croyde.

» Follow this lane into Croyde, arriving at

a junction just after a car showroom. (If

you’re stopping in Croyde or carrying

on to Saunton Sands, go straight on.)

» Otherwise, turn left and climb to

Georgeham. Pass the Lower House pub,

and follow the road towards Woolacombe.

» Pass the sign for Pickwell village, and

carry on until you reach a left fork.

» Ignore signs for Woolacombe and

Ilfracombe and bear left (effectively straight

on), descending the steep hill.

» Arrive back in Woolacombe; at the

bottom of the hill turn left to Mortehoe.

» Follow the coast back to Mortehoe, and

up the hill to Victoria House.

STOP AND SEE

EN ROUTE

Croyde Bay Croyde, Devon

Help yourself to 800 metres of golden sand.

When you arrive in the village, look out for

Billy Budd’s pub on your right. A track

alongside it leads you to the sea.

Croyde Ice Cream Parlour 6 Hobb’s Hill,

Croyde, Devon, EX33 1LZ; 01271 891003

A proper old-fashioned ice cream shop.

Take your pick from a mouth-watering range

of flavours including rhubarb and custard.

The Blue Groove 2 Hobb’s Hill, Croyde,

Devon, EX33 1LZ; 01271 890111;

www.blue-groove.co.uk

Laid-back, light, and airy, this cool

bistro-bar serves up quality cocktails (try

the Fuzzy Shark) and tasty daytime dishes

like citrus chilli salad and meaty burgers

courtesy of the local butcher. Head to the

terrace and gaze out over the water.

OFF ROUTE

Saunton Sands Saunton, Devon

Pedal on past Croyde for a couple of miles

until you see the enormous stretch of sand

unfold before you. A great place to spend

the day catching rays.

EAT, DRINK, SLEEP Victoria House Chapel Hill, Mortehoe,

Devon, EX34 7DZ; 01271 871302;

www.victoriahousebandb.co.uk

Camera at the ready: this B&B offers a fine

spot from which to admire some incredible

sunsets. Run by Heather and David Burke,

it’s tucked into the cliffs just a short walk

from the beach. There are two smart rooms

(think dark wood and sumptuous bed

linen), plus the kooky beach house next

door – with its private terrace and day bed.

Doubles from £110 per night.

Shuna Guest House Down End, Croyde,

Devon, EX33 1QE; 01271 890537;

www.shunaguesthouse.co.uk

Small family-run B&B minutes from the

beach, with breathtaking views. There are

seven en suite rooms and home-cooked

breakfasts awaiting you in the morning (go

for scrambled eggs and smoked salmon).


Rockleigh The Square, Mortehoe,

Devon, EX34 7DS; 01271 870704;

www.rockleighhouse.com

Two bright and airy en suite rooms in the

centre of Mortehoe, with cracking views

out to sea and a restaurant serving

home-made, locally sourced food.

Doubles from £60 (minimum two nights).

The Boardwalk The Esplanade,

Woolacombe, Devon, EX34 7DJ;

01271 871115;

www.theboardwalkwoolacombe.co.uk

Modern, informal bistro on the edge of

Woolacombe, walkable from Victoria

House. Menu includes mouth-watering

dishes like locally farmed steak and

Cornish sardines drizzled with lemon

juice then fried in garlic butter.

The Courtyard South Street, Woolacombe,

Devon, EX34 7BB; 01271 871187;

www.courtyardrestaurant.co.uk

Tucked away and just a short walk from the

seafront, this lovely, laid-back restaurant has

a retractable roof (perfect for sunny

evenings). Run by Noel Corston and his

wife Nora, it’s refreshingly friendly and

serves up some imaginative dishes. Try the

pan-fried brill with clams, parsnip purée,

wood sorrel, and hazelnuts.

RENTOtter Cycle Hire The Old Pottery, Station

Road, Braunton, Devon, EX33 2AQ;

01271 813339

The fleet of mountain bikes on offer here

is ideal for the topsy-turvy terrain

surrounding Woolacombe and Croyde –

each one has plenty of gears, suspension,

and big knobbly tyres. Both adult and

children’s bikes available, for £12 per day.

Devon and Cornwall 37

WAREHAM TO CORFE CASTLESilky-smooth roads, breathtaking views, and just one hill...

7

IF I HAD TO CHOOSE, THIS COULD WELL BE my favourite ride. Located just along the road from the Purbeck Hills, Wareham is surrounded by

surprisingly flat lanes that make for some smooth cycling. In the town itself, attractive old houses line the main street and an idyllic river runs across its southern end. It’s here that you’ll find Gold Court House, tucked away on a narrow back street, where Merlin the black Labrador snoozes his days away on the neatly trimmed lawn. He’ll probably still be here when you get back, so grab your bike, pull the garden gates to, and head out to the riverfront.

The first half-mile takes you over the bridge and out of town along a dead-

straight road, passing cow-littered meadows as you go. Banking left at the King’s Arms pub, you slip away down Nutcrack Lane, bordered by knotted brambles and old-fashioned pastures. As you carry on through the hamlet of Ridge, the scenery changes from fields to rugged heathland and marsh; the area is home to over 200 species of birds, including nightjars, ospreys, and the rare Dartford warbler – you can stop and see them at the RSPB reserve at Arne, up ahead.

Meanwhile, the route sees you fork right for Corfe Castle, cruising along an avenue of trees that turns to grassland and bracken as you emerge on to open heath. When the gorse is in blossom during spring, the brown and green landscape is speckled with yellow flowers, creating a beautiful foreground against the Purbeck Hills towering up into the sky.

As the road unravels over the landscape, the ruins of Corfe Castle come into focus up

ahead, perched imperiously on a hill overlooking the eponymous village filled with ramshackle stone

cottages. If you fancy stopping for longer after a tasty lunch in one of the pubs or cafés, there’s a pretty church well

worth a snoop, as well as the castle itself.Retrace your wheel-tracks back out of

the village and veer off to Church Knowle, taking one last look behind at the castle, its

ruins silhouetted against the sky. Now comes the only big climb of the

day. It’s pretty short, though, and before long you’re up on the top – gazing down over voluptuous countryside, all the way back to Corfe Castle village. It’s downhill the rest of the way home, as you drop off

the Purbeck Hills and coast through Furzebrook to arrive back at Wareham for afternoon tea. Who knows, you might

even be in time to see Merlin the Labrador rising from his slumber…

46 South West

South West 47

THE ROUTEDISTANCE 12 MILES

DIFFICULTY

START Gold Court House

St John’s Hill, Wareham, Dorset, BH20 4LZ

» Leave Gold Court House from the back.

Turn right and head round to the river.

» At the main road turn left and ride over

the bridge to Stoborough, turning left just

after the King’s Arms pub.

» Follow this road for 2 miles (through

Ridge), before turning right for Corfe Castle.

» Continue for just over 2 miles to a

junction: turn right and at the roundabout

take the first exit – for Corfe Castle.

» Take the first right, signposted Church

Knowle. (For Corfe village, go straight on).

» Two miles later, after passing through

Church Knowle, turn right and climb the hill.

» Descend the other side and carry on for

nearly 2 miles, passing through Furzebrook

to reach a roundabout, where you go

straight over, taking the Stoborough exit.

» Follow this road back to Wareham.

STOP AND SEE

EN ROUTE

Arne Nature Reserve Wareham,

Dorset, BH20 5BJ; 01929 553360;

see www.rspb.org.uk

Haven for over 200 species of birds,

including rare breeds like the Dartford

warbler. Pick up a map and head off on one

of the heathland trails. Daytime and

nocturnal guided walks are on offer, too.

Corfe Castle Village and Castle

www.corfe-castle.co.uk; for castle: 01929

481294; see www.nationaltrust.org.uk

Beautiful old village overlooked by the

ruins of the eponymous fort that dates back

a staggering 1,000 years. Once you’ve had

a look round the castle, head up the small

hill and stop at Cleals – a great little deli

selling Purbeck ice cream and local beers

with ominous names like Old Thumper.

Wareham Boat Hire Abbots Quay,

Wareham, Dorset, BH20 4LW; 01929 550688;

www.warehamboathire.co.uk

What better way to round off a ride than

a relaxing row down the river? Rent a

boat from Russ and spend an hour or

so pottering about with the swans, ducks,

and other river residents.

OFF ROUTE

Studland nr Swanage, Dorset

This bonny village has three gorgeous

beaches and a nature reserve nearby.

All just seven miles from Wareham.

EAT, DRINK, SLEEP Gold Court House St John’s Hill,

Wareham, Dorset, BH20 4LZ; 01929

553320; www.goldcourthouse.co.uk

Three rooms to choose from – all en suite

– with a peaceful garden out the back.

Owners Michael and Anthea know the area

intimately and will happily suggest some

local hidden treasures.


The Priory Country House Hotel

Church Green, Wareham, Dorset, BH20 4ND;

01929 551666; www.theprioryhotel.co.uk

Expensive, but worth it. Eighteen luxurious

rooms including romantic suites with

Jacuzzis overlooking the river; conveniently

close to Wareham’s pubs and eateries.

Four acres of gardens and a great

restaurant make this the perfect base for

a weekend of eating, drinking, and biking.


North Mill Wareham, Dorset, BH20 4QW;

01929 555142; www.northmill.org.uk

This former mill on the edge of Wareham

has two rooms (one double, one twin), with a

garden right beside the river. Breakfast eggs

come courtesy of the resident hens; served

with home-made breads and spreads.

Double from £80 per night.

The Old Granary The Quay, Wareham,

Dorset, BH20 4LP; 01929 552010;

www.hall-woodhouse.co.uk

Beautiful old building right next to the river;

sit and watch the swans drift by or head

inside to the light, modern interior. Try the

Hopping Hare ale and delicious lamb shank

shepherd’s pie – perfect post-ride fare.

The Castle Inn 63 East Street, Corfe Castle,

Wareham, Dorset, BH20 5EE; 01929 480208;

www.castleinncorfe.com

You’ll find this friendly, family-oriented pub

at the top of the main street. Old stone walls

and a wood-burning stove give the place

lots of character – as does welcoming

landlady Laurice. There’s an enormous

garden with chickens wandering about;

look out for the steam train passing nearby.

The Greyhound Inn The Square, Corfe

Castle, Dorset, BH20 5EZ; 01929 480205;

www.greyhoundcorfe.co.uk

A medieval pub full of friendly locals and

good-quality food (try the Poole Bay

mussels). The garden has views of the

facing hills and a path leading to the castle.

RENTPurbeck Cycle Hire Wareham Station,

Wareham, Dorset, BH20 4AS; 01929 556601;

www.purbeckcyclehire.co.uk

These guys have a range of mountain bikes

for adults and children and trailers for dogs.

Adult’s bike costs £14 for a day.

HELPFUL HINTTake bathers: the coast is a splash away.

EAST ANGLIA

WELLS-NEXT-THE-SEA TO WIGHTONA sandy beach, a stately home, and a surprisingly smart pub…

29

W HILE THE REST OF THE WORLD rushes about on deadlines, timetables, and crammed commuter trains, here in this

quiet corner of Norfolk people are stretched out on the village green, shoes off, chatting.

Wells-next-the-Sea has a lot to offer for such a small place; a minute’s ride from its grass hub, the narrow streets open out on to a quayside where the masts of multiple boats bob about drunkenly. And as you pootle along the cycle path by the harbour you hear the water rhythmically slapping against the sea wall and mast pulleys clanking in the breeze. Off to your right there’s an uninterrupted view out to sea; distant rain clouds hover over the horizon like UFOs, extending pencil grey legs down to the water.

Where the sea wall ends, you join a path that hugs the coast to Holkham. Take a right fork, a few metres along, and you’ll end up at the beach – where a parade of brightly coloured huts is lined up, shipshape and ready for inspection. Stick to the coast path, though, where the scenery alternates between tall grasses and wild orchids growing in patches of wetland. A dense strip of arrow-straight pine trees shelters you from the sea wind soughing through the branches overhead.

Soon you peel off left and pass through the gates of Holkham Hall Estate, where deer tiptoe about on the immaculately trimmed grass. The parkland here is enormous (as is the house, itself worth a visit), and the driveway stretches on for two miles – briefly parting right and left as you pass an ostentatious obelisk and finally make it to the exit gates.

Heading left on to a quiet lane you pop over a couple of crossroads before it’s mostly downhill to Wighton. On your left, expansive golden fields lead to the sea – a thin navy strip on the horizon a few miles away, sparkling under the sun.

If this doesn’t make you feel that all’s right with the world, the fact that you’re less than five minutes from a great pub probably will. In Wighton, a few quick turns see you arriving outside the Carpenters Arms, which is a lot more stylish than your average country boozer – with its smart grey walls and dark wooden tables. Friendly landlady Rose has put together a simple but tasty menu with dishes like crayfish tails and crusty bread (which tastes even better when washed down with a crisp glass of white).

Getting back to Wells from here is a cinch. Just follow your wheel-tracks back out of the village and head right. Then it’s just a smooth lane and a couple of junctions before you’re grabbing a drink from the Crown and heading outside to kick off those shoes...

140 East Anglia

THE ROUTEDISTANCE 14½ MILES

DIFFICULTY

START The Crown The Buttlands,

Wells-next-the-Sea, Norfolk, NR23 1EX

» Head away from the Crown pub with the

village green on your left.

» Turn right at the end of the road, then left,

on to Staithe Street.

» At the end of Staithe Street turn left, then

first right, through the quayside car park

and on to the path alongside the sea wall.

» At its end, head left through another car

park, on to the coastal path; follow the

National Cycle Network (NCN 1) sign.

» Continue for 1½ miles before turning into

the car park on your left; head through this

and down Lady Ann’s Road, which brings

you out opposite Holkham Hall.

» Enter the estate, go past the hall and

continue out to the gates at the other end.

» Turn left out of the gates, and go straight

over the crossroads just along the lane.

» A mile later, go straight over another set

of crossroads.

» Follow this road until you reach Wighton.

For the Carpenters Arms, turn right at the

junction, then immediately left. Keep

following this road past the church; it bends

left to bring you to the pub.

» From the pub, retrace your steps back out

of the village and turn right – signposted

Wells-next-the-Sea.

» After 1½ miles bear left at the junction –

following the sign for the town centre.

» Take the first right, on to Polka Road. Then

turn left on to Station Road.

» Take the second left, on to the Buttlands,

to arrive outside the Crown.

STOP AND SEE

EN ROUTE

Wells-next-the-Sea Beach

This enormous stretch of sand the colour

of milky coffee is famous for its bright

beach huts that stand on stilts. Strong tides

can make swimming tricky, but it’s the

perfect place to spend the afternoon

building sandcastles or exploring the

wind-sculpted dunes.

Holkham Hall Wells-next-the-Sea, Norfolk,

NR23 1AB; 01328 710227;

www.holkham.co.uk

Holkham is one of the UK’s grandest stately

homes, with 3,000 acres of grounds, a lake,

and a herd of 800 fallow deer. You could

easily spend a whole day here.

The Carpenters Arms 55–57 High Street,

Wighton, Norfolk, NR23 1PF;

01328 820752;

www.carpentersarmswighton.co.uk

A smart gastropub with Rose at its helm.

The menu features dishes like venison

steak on a red-onion-and-summer-berry

compote, and warm treacle tart for afters.

OFF ROUTE

Boat Trip to Blakeney Point Between

Sheringham and Wells-next-the-Sea, Norfolk;

01263 740241; see www.nationaltrust.org.uk

Leave the bike behind and jump on a boat

for a glimpse of the grey seals that lounge

about on Blakeney Point. Owned by the

National Trust, it’s an important breeding

area for seabirds, too.

EAT, DRINK, SLEEPThe Crown The Buttlands, Wells-next-the-

Sea, Norfolk, NR23 1EX; 01328 710209;

www.thecrownhotelwells.co.uk

Tucked away in a corner at the end of the

village green, the Crown has 12 stylish

rooms with Roberts radios, flat-screen TVs,

and solid wooden sleigh beds. Downstairs

in the sunny dining room, tasty sirloin

steaks and local seafood are served

alongside Adnams ales.


The Globe Inn The Buttlands, Wells-next-

the-Sea, Norfolk, NR23 1EU;

01328 710206; www.holkham.co.uk/globe

There are seven sunlit rooms to choose

from, with wooden floors, original fireplaces

and metal-framed beds. In the restaurant

downstairs they serve refreshing dishes like

chicken and chorizo salad with spinach,

pine nuts, and chilli oil; alternatively, just

take a pint outside to sup on the green.


Meadow View Guest House

53 High Street, Wighton, Norfolk, NR23 1PF;

01328 821527; www.meadow-view.net

Run by Rose from the Carpenters Arms,

this luxurious guest house has five swish

en suite rooms with large beds, bath robes,

and more cushions than you know what

to do with.


The Albatros Wells-next-the Sea, Norfolk

This Dutch barge, moored in the harbour,

has seen some action in its time. Once used

for carrying soybeans from Europe, it now

serves up tasty Dutch pancakes (try the

apple, cinnamon, and syrup one).

RENTOn Yer Bike The Laurels, Nutwood Farm,

Wighton, Norfolk, NR23 1NX;

01328 820719; www.norfolkcyclehire.co.uk

You’ll find mountain bikes, trailers, child

seats, and tag-alongs that all come with

locks, pumps, repair kits, and route maps

at this place. A day’s rental costs £13 per

adult. And you can request delivery

(for an extra charge).

East Anglia 141

ARNSIDE TO LEIGHTON HALLDelicious food, dramatic hills, and views out across the bay…

42

Y OU DON’T EVEN HAVE to go outside the B&B to get a breathtaking view in this part of the world. Sitting in the lounge at

Number 43 in Arnside, cup of tea in hand, you’ve got Morecambe Bay stretched out before you – so smooth that it’s tempting to stroll across the water to the Lake District’s hills on the other side. On a clear day you can see for over 40 miles from here – all the way to the Old Man of Coniston, one of the most iconic peaks of the lot.

Number 43 is one of those swanky B&Bs with all the trimmings of a 5-star hotel. Owner Lesley has a platter of cold meats, pâtés, and cheeses waiting when you arrive, which can be washed down with organic wines (no hangover!). The stylish rooms feature sumptuous linen, posh products, and gadgets galore – including a Bose CD player.

The landscape around Arnside was made for cycling; one minute you’re on the waterfront, the next you’re out in the lanes. Wobbling off from Lesley’s place, with the bay on your left, you see swans gliding silently alongside you and sailboats silhouetted out on the water. Further along you pass a parade of twee shops including the Bake House café and pizzeria, and Laura Lee’s Café – tempting you to stop and snack before you’ve barely got going.

Once you’re out into the lanes, though, you see craggy hillsides rising up in the distance – scenic reminders that you’re skirting the edge of the Lake District – and soon you’re pedalling along through woodland with the earthy aroma of leaf litter and pine hanging in the air.

In a couple of miles you can freewheel down to Yealand Redmayne (not much more than a strip of cottages lining the road), which slips imperceptibly into Yealand Conyers, where you round the corner to arrive outside the New Inn. There’s a dish of pan-fried crevettes with citrus salad waiting, which sets you up for the cheeky post-lunch climb.

It’s a bit of a biggy, but you could always get off and stroll – halfway up there’s a clearing in the old oak trees, where you can see the valley floor tiled in various shades of green.

A mile or so later you come upon the entrance to Leighton Hall and duck on to its driveway, cruising up to the rather magnificent country house. Don’t be fooled by its crenellated grey walls: they were a ‘modern’ addition, added around 1825 (the main part of the house dates back to 1246).

When you’ve filled up with tea and taken a nose around the place, the route carries on through the grounds and out the other side, dropping downhill, to Leighton Moss Nature Reserve. From here it’s only a few miles back to Arnside – where you can enjoy

another installment of that pristine view

over the bay.

194 North West


DIFFICULTY

START Number 43

The Promenade, Arnside, Cumbria, LA5 0AA

» Bear right from Number 43 and follow

the waterfront.

» Just over a mile later, it sweeps left and

leads you to a level crossing.

» After another mile you reach a junction:

turn left towards Yealand Redmayne.

» Follow this road for 1½ miles to a junction:

bear left towards Yealand Redmayne.

» Go through the village and on to Yealand

Conyers, passing the New Inn and turning

right ¼ mile later, on to Peter Lane.

» Climb for about a mile until you see the

entrance for Leighton Hall on your right.

» Go through the grounds to the other side

(about 1¼ miles) and turn left at the exit.

» Turn right at the bottom of the hill, and

follow the road for nearly 2 miles, until you

see a sign for Arnside: turn left.

» You’re now on the same road to Arnside

that you emerged from earlier. Continue

along it, back over the level crossing, and

bear right to reach Arnside’s waterfront.

STOP AND SEE

EN ROUTE

The New Inn 40 Yealand Road, Carnforth,

Lancashire, LA5 9SJ; 01524 732938

Enter the bar on your left and you’re

greeted by copper table tops, an old

fireplace, and a menu featuring filling

classics like beef and ale pie. Try one

of the Robinsons beers, too.

Leighton Hall Carnforth, Lancashire, LA5

9ST; 01524 734474; www.leightonhall.co.uk

Forget those stuffy old country houses

where you daren’t breathe for fear of being

told off. This is a real family home, where

you’re free to sit on the chairs, stretch out on

the lawn, and even play a tune on the piano.

There’s a great tea shop here, too.

Leighton Moss Nature Reserve

Carnforth, Lancashire; 01524 701601;

see www.rspb.org.uk

Red deer, marsh harriers, and bearded tits

are just a few of the species that you’re

likely to see here. Kids and adults alike will

love the nature trail that takes you along

reed beds and a coastal lagoon.

OFF ROUTE

Arnside Knott Lancashire

Take a walk along the promenade and over

to Arnside Knott – the moss-covered

limestone rock that rises out of the flatland

surrounding the town. Climb to the top for

great views if you’re feeling energetic.

EAT, DRINK, SLEEPNumber 43 The Promenade, Arnside,

Cumbria, LA5 0AA; 01524 762761;

www.no43.org.uk

The moment you arrive here there’s an

almost audible ‘fisss’ as the stress leaves

your body. After handing you a glass of

wine (or hand-made ginger ale) Lesley, the

owner, will show you to your room. There

are six to choose from – plus two suites –

or if you fancy coming with a group of

friends you could book up the whole place

and get it stocked with gourmet food.


Grisedale Farm Leighton, Carnforth,

Lancashire, LA5 9ST; 01524 734360;

www.grisedalefarm.co.uk

If you’re looking to really get away from

it all, then come here. Located along the

lane from Leighton Hall, this 17th-century

farmhouse has two rooms (a double and a

twin), period furniture, zero light pollution,

and freshly laid eggs for brekkie.


Ye Olde Fighting Cocks The Promenade,

Arnside, Cumbria, LA5 0HD; 01524 761203;

www.fighting-cocks.co.uk

Built over the site of an old cock-fighting pit

(hence the name), this cosy pub looks out

over the bay. Old-fashioned-cosy rather

than contemporary-cool, the rooms have

period features including four-poster beds

and chandeliers, and wonderful views to

the Lake District. Downstairs you can get a

good home-cooked meal before curling

up by the fire with a drink.


The Big Chip Café 1 The Promenade,

Arnside, Lancashire (yep, not Cumbria),

LA5 0HF; 01524 761874;

www.arnsidechipshop.co.uk

This award-winning chippy serves up tasty

fresh haddock, plaice, fishcakes, and other

seafood treats. Slap on the salt and vinegar

before washing it down with a can of fizzy

pop – you’ve earned it after all that cycling.

RENTLeisure Lakes Bikes 103 Penny Street,

Lancaster, Lancashire, LA1 1XN;

01524 844389; www.leisurelakesbikes.com

A fleet of six Specialized bikes (three gents;

three ladies) are available from £6 an hour

to £15 for 24 hours. Each one comes with

panniers, helmet, and puncture-repair kit.

North West 195

YORKSHIRE

KIRKBY MALZEARD TO THE DROVERS INNA homely pub, a hidden valley, and epic views across the moors…

44

Y OU MIGHT GET A bit of a surprise when you arrive at the Drovers Inn near Dallowgill. Placed carefully on top of a

moorland hill like a proverbial ye olde cherry, it’s a tad smaller than you might expect.

In fact, it feels more like you’re walking into someone’s lounge than into a country boozer; there’s a fire crackling away quietly, a clutch of tiny tables, and the landlord, Steve, chatting in the corner with a couple of locals.

Diminutive it might be, but this place has a rather large reputation; if I’d been given a pound for everyone who’d recommended it, I’d have made more than enough to get a round in. And while the pub may be on the small side, the giant scenery outside certainly makes up for it.

The ride begins in Kirkby Malzeard – where (useless fact alert) Bing Crosby unexpectedly called in for a game of cricket, one hot August day in 1976 – taking you through the village of Laverton (think red phone box and benches by a babbling brook), and out on to smooth-cycling lanes, before you hang a right and head towards the pub.

All the while you’ve been climbing gently, the views expanding to give you a tantalising glimpse of what lies in store after your pint at the Drovers. From outside the pub you can see a line in the distance where the neatly parcelled fields end and the moor takes over – the purple heather running riot all over the hillsides.

All that is still to come, though. Leaving the locals to their chatting in the Drovers, you dive left down a lane that takes you back through time; grassy banks become prehistoric ferns, and you can hear water trickling over the rocks in some hidden nearby stream.

You’re pedalling through a valley that the rest of the world forgot about, a world in which rabbits have time to hang around at the roadside, nonchalantly nibbling at patches of grass.

Soon you start to climb, though – with signs of life appearing in the form of the odd cottage here and there – and before long you’re on that moorland you looked over while sipping a pint back at the pub.

Rabbits are replaced by sheep, put out here to keep the grass from taking over, and the view opens out for miles on all sides. On your left the land falls away into a valley and, as late afternoon turns to early evening, the temperature change causes pillows of cloud to snuggle into the gap.

Finally you make a right, and it’s pretty much downhill all the way now, back to Kirkby Malzeard, and your B&B room at Cowscot House – which, incidentally, is almost the same size as the bar at the Drovers’ Inn.

204 Yorkshire

THE ROUTEDISTANCE 8½ MILES

DIFFICULTY

START Cowscot House

Back Lane, Kirkby Malzeard, Ripon,

North Yorkshire, HG4 3SE

» Head left out of Cowscot House and

follow the lane until you reach the main

road through Kirkby Malzeard village.

» Cross straight over this, to the grass

triangle; then bear right, towards Laverton.

» After ½ mile you drop down into Laverton

and turn right, to cross the humpbacked

bridge (for Pateley Bridge). If you reach the

red phone box, you’ve missed your turning.

» At the next junction, turn right towards

Pateley Bridge.

» Keep on this road for a mile, until you

reach the Drovers Inn.

» Come out of the pub and take the first left,

signposted Dallowgill.

» As you drop downhill, the road veers

sharply left – don’t go straight on!

» Stay on this road along the valley and up

the other side, on to the dales. After 2 miles

you’ll see a sign for Kirkby Malzeard as the

road swings sharply right. Stay on it until

you reach the junction just outside Kirkby

Malzeard – and turn left for the village.

STOP AND SEE

EN ROUTE

The Drovers Inn Dallowgill, Kirkby

Malzeard, North Yorkshire, HG4 3RH;

01765 658510

This no-frills Yorkshire pub sits on the edge

of Dallowgill Moor, and is only open from

3.30pm on weekdays. So why not come up

here for a late-afternoon thirst-quencher,

when the sun turns the surrounding

scenery golden?

OFF ROUTE

The Yorkshire Moors see www.

kirkbymalzeard.com (click on ‘Footpaths’)

Ask the owners of Cowscot House, Liz and

Mike, to put together a packed lunch, and

then set off on foot across the moors. The

most scenic spots are nearby Grewelthorpe

Moor and Kirkby Malzeard Moor, where

you can see all the way to the east coast

on clear days – about 50 miles away.

Fountains Abbey and Studley Royal

Ripon, North Yorkshire, HG4 3DY; 01765

608888; www.fountainsabbey.org.uk

Cameras at the ready... You may find

yourself getting a little snap-happy when

you see the arches of this 800-year-old

abbey poking above the treeline. The ruins

sit on the banks of the River Skell, and after

a free guided tour you could spread out on

the lawns for a long, lazy picnic. If you’re

still keen after that, there are the Georgian

water gardens to check out.

Ripon North Yorkshire

Spend the day in this ancient city and you

can check out the 12th-century cathedral,

stroll along the canal, and – if you’re here

on a Thursday – shop for a bargain or three

at the open market, which dates back to the

eighth century. When you hear the horn

blowing in the square at 9pm, as it has

every day for over 1,000 years, you know

it’s time to head home.

EAT, DRINK, SLEEPCowscot House Back Lane, Kirkby

Malzeard, Ripon, North Yorkshire, HG4 3SE;

01765 658181; www.cowscothouse.co.uk

Book one of the four rooms in this converted

barn and stables, and you’ll wake up the

next day to home-made yogurt, freshly

baked bread, and recently laid eggs. Let

them know beforehand, and Mike and Liz

will even have an afternoon tea waiting

when you get back from your ride.

Doubles from £35 per person, per night.

The Moorhouse Dallowgill, Kirkby

Malzeard, Ripon, North Yorkshire, HG4 3RH;

01765 658371; www.moorhousebnb.co.uk

About 15 steps away from the Drovers Inn

you’ll find this renovated five-bedroom

house with views out over the moor. As with

Cowscot, you can arrange to have tea, toast,

and home-made cake waiting for you when

you get back.


Box Tree Cottages Coltsgate Hill, Ripon,

North Yorkshire, HG4 2AB; 01765 698006;

www.boxtreecottages.com

As the name suggests, this Grade II-listed

building was once three cottages, but has

now been turned into a smart six-room

guest house with an acre of gardens. The

centre of Ripon is only a few minutes’ walk

away, and Kirkby Malzeard about six miles.


RENTDales Mountain Biking Dales Bike Centre,

Fremington, Richmond, North Yorkshire,

DL11 6AW; 01748 884908;

www.dalesmountainbiking.co.uk

Crazy as it seems, with such good cycling

countryside all around Kirkby Malzeard,

Dales Mountain Biking is the nearest hire

facility – about 20 miles away. The good

news is they have an extensive fleet of hard

tails (£22 per day) and full suspension

mountain bikes (£40), which come with

helmets, pumps, and puncture repair kits

– and there’s a great little café on site

(plus some superb mountain biking)…

Yorkshire 209

LAKESIDE TO NEAR SAWREYUps and downs in the land of Beatrix Potter…

52

W HATEVER WOULD MRS TIGGY-WINKLE make of all this? Crowds of people trudging around Hill Top, Beatrix Potter’s

former home, in their muddy wellies and walking boots, dragging dirt through the house and leaving the door open (letting in the draft!).

In case you didn’t know, Mrs T-W was the washerwoman lead in the eponymous Beatrix Potter book published in 1905, which made her an instant celebrity – along with Jemima Puddle-Duck and Peter Rabbit, of course. The other thing you should know is that Mrs Tiggy-Winkle was a hedgehog. A real one. She was part of a menagerie that the children’s author kept at Hill Top in the early 1900s, when things were a lot quieter there.

The farm is now owned by the National Trust and lies in the not-so-sleepy village of Near Sawrey – the halfway point of a scenic ride that

begins at the other end of Lake Windermere. Having jumped on your bike outside The Knoll

– a B&B with all the trimmings of a boutique hotel, without the prices – you go left, along the lake’s edge.

Within minutes you pass Stott Park, an old bobbin mill that did a roaring trade in the golden years of the Industrial Revolution, spitting out cotton reels for Lancashire cloth factories. You can see the mill’s chimney poking above the trees before you get here – an incongruous totem pole to mass production.

Dropping downhill, now, you’ve got Lake Windermere on your right, and wooded hillside to the left. The Lake District really plays with your sense of scale. One minute you’re looking at the vast, open stretch of Windermere, a watery coda that interrupts the flow of hills and valleys for 12 uniform miles; the next, you’re diving down impossibly small lanes.

Sticking with the lake for the next couple of miles, you eventually peel off inland and climb up into the hamlet of Far Sawrey, just along the road from Beatrix Potterville, so if you’re feeling thirsty the choice is A: instant gratification in the Sawrey Hotel, opposite – or B: turn left and cruise downhill to Near Sawrey, where there’s a great pub just five minutes away.

I tend to opt for the latter, the Tower Bank Arms. Not only is it conveniently located just in front of Hill Top, but there’s a tasty shoulder of lamb on the menu. Just don’t tell us Mrs Tiggy-Winkle.

240 Lake District


DIFFICULTY

START The Knoll Lakeside, nr

Newby Bridge, Ulverston, Cumbria, LA12 8A

» Turn left out of The Knoll and follow the

road for 2½ miles, passing Stott Park Bobbin

Mill, before forking right, for Sawrey Ferry.

» Follow this lane, running parallel with

Lake Windermere, for nearly 3 miles,

continuing until you reach Far Sawrey.

» Here you take the right-hand fork and

climb up to the junction with the B5285

– bringing you out just opposite the

Sawrey Hotel.

» Turn left and follow this road through

Near Sawrey and on to Hawkshead, where

you loop left in a big 180-degree arc. Follow

the signs for Newby Bridge and Lakeside

for the next 6½ miles – past Stott Park

Bobbin Mill – to The Knoll.

STOP AND SEE

EN ROUTE

Stott Park Bobbin Mill nr Newby Bridge,

Ulverston, Cumbria, LA12 8AX; 01539

531087; see www.english-heritage.org.uk

Believe it or not, 250 men (and boys) toiled

here from 1835 to 1971, making around

250,000 wooden bobbins a week for the

Lancashire mills. A guided tour gives you

a glimpse into their lives.

Hill Top Near Sawrey, Hawkshead,

Ambleside, Cumbria, LA22 0LF;

01539 436269; see, www.nationaltrust.org.uk

This is the farm that Beatrix Potter bought

with the royalties from her first books.

In many of the rooms it looks as though

she’s just nipped out for a walk – leaving

sketches of her most famous characters

lying around.

Tower Bank Arms Near Sawrey, Hawkshead,

Ambleside, Cumbria, LA22 0LF; 01539

436334; www.towerbankarms.co.uk

With piles of wood stacked outside and a

clock above the front door that may well be

stuck on 19th-century time, this pub is like

entering a (very pleasant) time warp. Cosy

fires in winter, delicious food all year.

OFF ROUTE

The Lakeside & Haverthwaite Railway

01539 531594; www.lakesiderailway.co.uk

Give your legs a rest and take the steam

train instead. This 3½-mile stretch of scenic

branch-line takes you from Lakeside along

to the nearby village of Haverthwaite. They

don’t make them like this any more.

EAT, DRINK, SLEEPThe Knoll Lakeside, nr Newby Bridge,

Ulverston, Cumbria, LA12 8AU; 01539

531347; www.theknoll-lakeside.co.uk

Suave rooms, sumptuous sofas, and

delicious food on tap… This quiet country

house is more like a boutique hotel; think

pre-dinner G&T followed by spiced parsnip

and apple soup.


Low Graythwaite Hall Graythwaite,

nr Hawkshead, Ambleside, Cumbria,

LA12 8AZ; 01539 531676;

www.lowgraythwaitehall.co.uk

There are five swish bedrooms in this

historic country house, which once

belonged to the Sawrey family. Expect DAB

digital radios, locally made toiletries, and

big old gardens for a post-ride stroll.

Oh, and there’s a heated indoor pool, too.


Beechmount Country House Near Sawrey,

Hawkshead, Ambleside, Cumbria,

LA22 0JZ; 01539 436356;

www.beechmountcountryhouse.co.uk

This turn-of-the-century country house

has cracking views of Esthwaite Water

and the surrounding hills. Stretch out in the

landscaped gardens after your ride, or lock

yourself away in the summer house with a

good book… one by Miss Potter, perhaps?


RENTCountry Lanes Lakeside, Newby Bridge,

Ulverston, Cumbria, LA12 8AS; 07748

512286; www.countrylaneslakedistrict.co.uk

Located handily just down the road from

The Knoll, this friendly hire outlet has a

range of mountain bikes for all ages – along

with hybrids and trailers too. Everything

comes with a helmet and lock – starting

from £16 for an adult’s bike.

Lake District 243

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