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Step by Step construction
instruction.
A complete bill of materials.
Exploded view and elevation
drawings.
How-to photos with instructive
captions.
Tips to help you complete the
project and become a betterwoodworker.
To download these plans,you will need Adobe Reader
installed on your computer. If you want to geta free copy, you can get it at: Adobe Reader.
Having trouble downloading the plans?
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Explorer, right click on the download link
and select "Save Target As" to downloadto your local drive.
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WJ034
Americas leading woodworking authority
Fold-Down Bed
Published inWoodworkers Journal From Shop to Home: EssenProjects, Tips and Techniques for Todays Home Woodworker
WOODWORKER'S JOURNAL
2007 ALL RIGHTS RESERVED
Published inWoodworkers Journal From Shop to Home: Essent
Projects, Tips and Techniques for Todays Home Woodworker
This plan brought to you by:
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150 HOME PROJECTS
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SPACE-SAVING FOLD-DOWN BED 151
Looking at a typical fold-down bed
system can be pretty daunting. There
are springs and cables everywhere,
adjustments and counter adjustments,
levers and wires, and from every angle
the contraption just looks confusing
and difficult to assemble. Its little
wonder that some clever people came
up with a better alternative. The fold-
down bed hardware we discovered
for this project has been in use in the
hotel industry for years, but it was only
recently introduced to the general
public. The heart of the system is a
piston, which controls the swing speed
of the bed as its opened or closed.
The piston is fully enclosed, simple to
This project will take you about 5 days to
complete and it requires standard shop tools
only. The joinery consists of mortise and
tenons, dowel or biscuits, and screwed butt
joints. The recommended finishes are lacquer
or polyurethane. Four sheets of 3/4" red oak plywood
50 board feet of 3/4" red oak
15 board feet of 134" red oak
4 board feet of 1/2" red oak
8 board feet of 1/4" red oak
14 board feet of 3/4" poplar
50 feet of red oak edge banding
Fold-Down Bed Hardware available
at Rockler Woodworking and Hardware
800-610-0883
Planning Ahead:
The Fold-Down Bed Project
install and maintenance free.
The trouble with most of these
fold-down beds is that, while they
save space in a room, theyre not real
useful when theyre not being slept in.
That was the design challenge. We
think having a drop leaf desk to use
when you dont have company is the
perfect solution!
Without a doubt, this is a large
plywood project, and there are several
steps when a second set of hands will
be helpful. In addition to your helpers,
make sure the project will fit through
the door of your shop when its done.
Thinking ahead on both counts will save
you from pounds worth of frustration.
Space-SavingFold-Down Bed
Afold-down bed is already a great space-saver, but now, with our drop leaf desk
addition, you get two projects in one. Heres the perfect solution for that small guest
bedroom that doubles as a sewing room, or in the bedroom of a college student home for
the summer months.
Figure 1: To apply pressure-sensitive edgebanding, just peal back the protective paperand press it onto the plywood with a firm roller.You can also buy iron-on edge tape that works
just as well.
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Cabinet Exploded View
31/4"
1
13
12
14
Front Panels & Ribbing Details
L-bracketsL-brackets L-brackets
Three additional supports
(3/4" x 2 5/16" x 6") should be spacedevenly across the top opening.
4"
481/2"
1"
1"
3/4"
Center 2 1/4" wide x 3 1/4" highopenings on seam for foot hardware.
9 9
9
The plywood overlaps accommodate bed frame (pieces 3,4 & 5).
121/2"
43
11/2"
11/2"
1/2"
1/2"
3/4"
31
/4"
63/4"
11
42
Foot & TopSupport Detail
21/4"
5 "
21/2"
343/4"
1
2
1
9
13
14
Front Panels &Ribbing Details
Column Groove Details
152 HOME PROJECTS
24 23
30
29
3/16"
1/4"
1/4"
1/4"
3/4"
3/8"
Routing the columngrooves is the key to
each of the cabinetside assemblies.
Once the 1/4"-deep by3/8"-wide grooves are
cut, all the plywoodpanels fall into place.
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SPACE-SAVING FOLD-DOWN BED 153
45
29
27
26
30
34 35
3138
Cabinet Details
553/4"
621/2"
MATERIAL LIST Fold-down Bed
T x W x L
1 Front Outside Panels (2) 3/4" x 1614" x 5534"
2 Front Middle Panel (1) 3/4" x 4412" x 2812"
3 Bed Frame Ends (2) 3/4" x 6" x 54"
4 Bed Frame Side (1) 3/4" x 6" x 7612"
5 Bed Frame Side (1) 3/4" x 8" x 7612"
6 Plywood Banding (1) 13/16" x 50'
7 Screws (1) #8-2" (bag of 100)
8 Plugs (1) 3/8" face grain
9 Ribbing (9) 3/4" x 112" x 96"
10 Screws (1) #8-114" (bag of 100)
11 Feet (2) 3/4" x 3" x 634"
12 Fold Down Bed Hardware (1)
13 Desk Framing (1) 3/4" x 214" x 142"
14 Filler Strip (1) 1/2" x 214" x 4412"
15 Desk (1) 3/4" x 43" x 2034"
16 Desk Supports (2) 3/4" x 6" x 20"
Building the Bed Box
Due to the special needs of the hardware installation,
the bed box must be built first, and then the cabinet can bebuilt around it. This seems awkward, but if you dont follow
this sequence youll end up with two boxes that wont fit
together properly.
Begin by cutting plywood to size for the bed box
(see Plywood Cutting Diagrams above). Cut plywood for
the front panels (pieces 1 and 2), then cut solid stock for
the bed frame ends and sides (pieces 3 through 5).
For help with alignment, use dowels or biscuits to
join the three front panels together. Drill or cut the joints,
depending on the method you prefer, then glue the three
panels edge to edge as shown in the drawing on the facing
page. For clamping these large assemblies we bought
seven-foot-long pipes to use with our pipe clamp fixtures.
Clean up any glue squeeze-out, then apply pressure-
sensitive edge banding (pieces 6) to all but the desk
opening edges of the assembly (see Figure 1). Trim the
excess banding off with a mill file.
With the front panel joined together, lay out the two
feet openings as shown in the Elevation Drawing, and cut
them with a jigsaw after drilling access holes in the corners
for inserting the saw blade.
Join the four pieces of the bed frame with counter-
bored screws (pieces 7), lapping the end pieces over the
side pieces. Fill the counterbores with oak plugs (pieces 8)
and drill holes in the ends for installing the bed hardware
brackets (see Elevation Drawing on the top of page 152).
The ribbing (pieces 9), which reinforces the bed box to
give it rigidity, is made with plywood scraps and secondary
wood. Rip 112"-wide strips for all the pieces, then glue and
screw some of them into L-brackets for the vertical ribs.
Now build a ribbing framework to fit inside the bed frame,
countersinking screws (pieces 7) to hold it together. Once
25 25
2323 28
32
27
26
2
16
11 39
15
46
47
Plywood Cutting Guide
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Cabinet Exploded View
154 HOME PROJECTS
113/4"
105/8"
95/8"
This measurementis to the
hardwarespivot point.
21/2"
5"
21/2"5
3/4"
8"1"
1"
1"
1"
Drill3/4" lock hole 1"from bottom edge of rail.
13"
MATERIAL LIST Fold-down Bed
T x W x L
17 Desk Rail (1) 3/4" x 334" x 43"
18 Cam Lock (1) 3/4" cylinder
19 Dowels (2) 1/4" Dia. x 114"
20 Desk Hinge (1) 112" x 43"
21 Desk Support Hinges (2) 112" x 6"
22 Desk Stops (2) 3/4" x 138" x 138"
23 Sides (2) 3/4" x 1512" x 61"
24 Upper Mounting Plates (2) 3/4" x 1434" x 534"
25 Lower Mounting Plates (2) 3/4" x 1434" x 3434"
26 Upper Brace (1) 3/4" x 53
4" x 841
2"27 Lower Brace (1) 3/4" x 3434" x 8412"
28 Top (1) 3/4" x 1638" x 86"
29 Columns (2) 134" x 5" x 61"
30 Top Rail (1) 3/4" x 212" x 7778"
31 Baseboard (1) 3/4" x 234" x 7778"
32 Stiffeners (8) 3/4" x 234" x 141116"
T x W x L
33 Caps (4) 3/4" x 312" x 1538"
34 Top Edging (1) 3/4" x 338" x 140"
35 Front Trim Molding (1) 3/4" x 314" x 96"
36 Side Trim Moldings (2) 3/4" x 314" x 20"
37 Side Moldings (4) 1/2" x 338" x 16"
38 Base Shoe (1) 1/2" x 3/4" x 7778"
39 Baseboard Backer (1) 3/4" x 212" x 7778"
40 Bolster Blocks (2) 114" x 258" x 3"
41 Rails and Stiles (6) 1/4" x 2"x 96"
42 Top Supports (2) 13
4" x 3" x 21
2"43 Top Supports (2) 3/4" x 3" x 314"
44 Small Squares (14) 114" x 114" x 6"
45 Large Squares (6) 134" x 134" x 6"
46 Inside Panel (1) 3/4" x 48" x 75"
47 Inside Panel (1) 3/4" x 6" x 75"
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SPACE-SAVING FOLD-DOWN BED 155
the framework is built slip it into the bed
frame and screw (pieces 10) the two
subassemblies together.
Securing the bed frame and ribbing
to the front panel assembly is a big job
that requires two people. First lay the
panel face-side down on the floor, then
position the bed frame on it to drill your
pilot holes. Make sure the frame is flush
with the bottom edge of the panel and
exposes a 1/4" plywood reveal at each
end. Next, turn over the frame and
spread glue on all its bottom edges,
then reposition the frame on the panel
and drive the screws (pieces 10).
Attending to More Bed Box Details
With the basic bed box made, now
you can take care of several small
details before moving on to the cabinet
construction. Cut the feet (pieces 11) to
size and chamfer the edges as shown
in the drawing on page 152. Next,
install the special hinges that come with
the fold-down hardware (pieces 12).
Center the hinges in the feet holes and
screw them to the ribbing above (see
Figure 2). Now, bore a 3/8" hole
through the ribbing and the bed frame
for each locking pin. Complete the
hinge installation by having a helper
hold the feet in position on the front
panel while you secure the hinges.
(Note: See the hardware instructions for
more on the hinge and feet installation).
For a finished look, frame the desk
3/16"
34
2945
45
V-Bit groove
5
Top Moulding Detail
17
18
16
15
41
1
2
1 4
11
4346
47
3
38 31
39
29
32
45
37
23
33
37
36
40
30
35
34
3/4"
1/8"
28
42
12
25
23
24
6
26
26
44
27
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15"
156 HOME PROJECTS
opening
with oak boards
(pieces 13), however, firstinstall a 1/2"-thick scrapwood filler
strip (piece 14) in the space at the
bottom of the opening so all the frame
pieces will come out even. After gluing
in the filler strip, cut the frame stock
to length and glue them around the
opening. Use finish nails to hold the
stock while the glue sets.
Now cut plywood for the desk
(piece 15) and desk supports (pieces
16). Once you have stock for the desk
supports cut out, bandsaw them to
shape following the guidelines in Figure
3. Clean up the edges and apply pres-
sure-sensitive edge banding to all the
support edges, as well as to the top
and side edges of the desk. For the
bottom edge of the desk, glue on a
protective oak rail (piece 17). When the
glue is dry, center a 3/4"-diameter hole
(see Elevation Drawing on page 154)
for the cam lock (piece 18).
Pinning the desk supports to
the desk will keep these pieces from
sagging while you write (see Figure 3).
Glue the pins (pieces 19) into a 1"-deep
hole in each support, then in a few
minutes, when the desk and supports
are installed in the bed, drill 3/8"-deep
holes in the underside of the desk to
align with the pins.
The desk and desk supports are
secured in the bed
box opening with
piano hinges. Use a
hack saw to cut the long
piano hinge into three sections (pieces
20 and 21), then screw the hinges to
the appropriate edge of each plywood
piece. With the help of a friend, hold the
desk in the bed box opening and drillpilot holes for the hinge (in the closed
position the desk should be flush with
the front panel assembly). Secure the
desk, then do the same thing with the
supports, which should be positioned
2" from the bed box opening wall and
hold the desk level with the floor. Wrap
up this step by drilling the pin holes in
the underside of the desk.
Glue the desk stops (pieces 22) in
the lower corners of the desk opening
and cut a biscuit slot for the lock arm
to swing into.
Constructing the Cabinet
Just as with the bed box, begin
building the cabinet by cutting the ply-
wood parts (pieces 23 through 28). Be
sure to cut notches in the upper brace
as shown in Figure 4. Once the ply-
wood is cut, rip 134"-thick oak for the
front columns (pieces 29) and some3/4" oak for the top rail (pieces 30)
and baseboard (piece 31).
The columns join the mounting
plates, the sides, the top rail and the
baseboard with tongue and groove
joints. Following the Elevation Drawing
on page 152, rout 1/4"-deep grooves
in the columns with a 3/8" straight bit
and a straight edge guide. After routing
these grooves, rout a V-groove on the
front of each column.
The tongues on all the plywoodpieces should be cut flush to their back
side, while the top rail and baseboard
have centered tongues. To cut all the
tongues use a 1/4" dado blade, and be
sure to clamp a wood face to your table
saw fence to protect it from the blade
during this operation.
Now glue the plywood pieces to
the columns and cut stiffeners (pieces
32) to butt-glue between each mounting
plate and the sides. Note: The upper
mounting plates should stick out above
the columns by 3/4", and this will be
covered by the trim moulding later on.
The stiffeners are just butt-glued into
place. Once each side assembly is
joined, drill the bracket installation
holes in the lower mounting plates
(see Elevation Drawing at right).
Install the brackets on the lower
mounting plates and on the ends of the
bed frame, and give your friend a holler.
With help, place the cabinet side
assemblies against the bed frame and
hook up the hardware, then glue the
top rail to the columns. Using long
clamps to hold everything together,
position the braces and drill counter-
bored pilot holes for mounting them to
the cabinet. Spread glue on all these
butt joints and screw the pieces down.
Fill the counterbores with oak plugs and
Figure 3:The bottom edge ofeach desk supporttapers 10, and thefront end is cut at
45. After bandingall the edges of thesupports, install a1/4"-diameter x 114"-
long locking pin inthe top edge ofeach support.
Figure 2: Secure each special hinge to theribbing and drill a hole so the locking pinpasses through the frame to hold the bed inthe closed position.
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SPACE-SAVING FOLD-DOWN BED 157
sand them flush. Next, cut the cavity
caps (pieces 33) and glue them to
cover the ends of each cavity, using afew finishing nails to hold them in place
while the glue dries. Wrap up this step
by applying pressure-sensitive banding
to the exposed edges of the braces.
Rout all the molding (pieces 34
through 38) using the bits shown in the
drawings on page 152. On narrow
molding like the base shoe, its always
best to rout the edge of a wider board
first, then rip the molded edge off after-
ward. Miter the edging and glue it to
the top, and miter the trim mouldingto length and construct a three-sided
frame using biscuits to strengthen the
corners. Position the trim moulding
frame on top of the cabinet so it slips
into the notches and screw it to the
pieces below. Next, position the top on
the trim moulding frame and secure it
with counterbored screws. Fill the holes
with oak plugs, then glue and nail the
side molding to the cabinet sides.
Since the baseboard is long and
slender, reinforce it with a backer strip
(piece 39) made from scrap. Glue the
backer behind the baseboard to form
an L-bracket. After the glue dries, tip
the carcase back a bit to glue the base-
board assembly into the grooves in the
columns, then install the base shoe.
Complete the cabinet construction
by installing the pistons and connecting
them to the bed frame, then install the
stops supplied with the hardware kit
(see Figure 5). Once the stops are in, glue
bolster blocks (pieces 40) to the inside of
the top rail where the locking pins are
located. These blocks bear against the
locking pins to keep the bed closed tight.
Completing the Cabinet Face
The work remaining on project is
mostly decorative. Rip plenty of 1/4"
stock for the rails and stiles (pieces 41),
then cut the pieces to fit on the cabinet
as shown in the Exploded Drawing on
page 155. Once theyre cut to length,
rout a shallow V-groove in the center of
the appropriate pieces, then glue and
nail the pieces to the front panels. Cut
the decorative supports (pieces 42 and
43) as well and glue them to the box
above the feet.
The squares (pieces 44 and 45)
can be made easily on the table saw.
Rip seven pieces of 114" x 114" x 6" oak
stock, and three pieces of 134" x 134" x 6"
oak, then tilt the saw blade 10 to cut
both ends of each piece into a pyramid
(see Elevation Drawings on page 154).
Next, cut off the squares and fasten them
to the front of the cabinet with epoxy.The final plywood panels are for
the inside skin of the bed (pieces 46
and 47). Cut the pieces and secure
them to the ribbing with counterbored
screws, then plug the holes and sand
them flush.
Believe it or not, the time has come
to sand and finish the fold-down bed.
Sand the entire project to 180 grit and
ease all the sharp edges. We finished
the project with Watco natural stain,
then sprayed it with lacquer. Be sureto wear a respirator when spraying lac-
quer. If you dont have spray equipment
use a brush-on lacquer, like Deft, or
choose a polyurethane varnish instead.
After the finishing is complete, rein-
stall the desk pieces and the hardware.
Now get lots of help to move this heavy
load into position and, once in place, be
sure to screw the carcase to the studs
in your wall with long deck screws.
Using the BedYoull find that once the mattress is
installed this bed hardware is easy to
use and trouble free. The weight of the
mattress equalizes the swing speed of
the mechanism and reduces the effort
needed to open the bed. Youll also
notice how different the hardware looks
from the kind of fold-down contraptions
youve seen in the past. With this hard-
ware you can rest easytheres no
danger of reenacting a Laurel and
Hardy routine where they end up
squished against the wall when their
bed unexpectedly swings closed.
Figure 5: The stops should be screwed tothe upper mounting plates to keep the bed
box flush with the front of the cabinet.
Figure 4: In its closed position, the special
hinge locks the bed to the cabinet. Pullingout the foot will release the lock and allowyou to open the bed.
40
4
42
43
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