1. 1 Michelle Matkovich Esthetics Project Three Spring 2014 Oliver Finley Academy

2. Stimulation/Rest AHA,s, BHAs, Enzymes and Extracts exfoliate and stimulate skin cells and substructures. Encouraging fresh layers to the surface and enhances skin tissue growth. Skin grows and repairs at rest. Nourishment Topically Vitamins A, C, D, E, K Essential Fatty Acids Peptides Sanitas Skincare Science Sanitas recognizes pH manipulation as a fundamental strategy for stimulating skin biochemistry. Skin care products need to be below the skins pH of 4.5 - 6.0 to create maximum activity on the skin. Maximum activity is achieved when the pH is between 1.8 - 4.8. 3. PCA- a humectant naturally occurring in the skins Natural Moisturizing Factor Squalane - a moisturizer and softener found in skins sebum Alpha hydroxy acids - increase cell-turnover, naturally occurring plant sugars Hyaluronic acid - naturally for cell healing and growth, a hemectant skin plumper Beta Glucan - fends off free-radicals & stimulates macrophages for immunity Peptides - small amino acid chains, for tissue repair and skin smoothing Fatty Vitamins - A, C, D, E and K. Protects, Heals, Nourishes. Active Biogenic Ingredients 4. W h a t i s p H ? Acidic and basic are two extremes that describe chemicals, just like hot and cold are two extremes that describe temperature. Mixing acids and bases can cancel out their extreme effects, much like mixing hot and cold water can even out water temperature. A substance that is neither acidic nor basic is neutral. The pH scale measures how acidic or basic a substance is. It ranges from 0 to 14. A pH of 7 is neutral. A pH less than 7 is acidic, and a pH greater than 7 is basic. Pure water is neutral, with a pH of 7.0. When chemicals are mixed with water, the mixture can become either acidic or basic. Vinegar and lemon juice are acidic substances, while laundry detergents and bar soaps are basic or alkaline. Sanitas recognizes pH manipulation as a fundamental strategy for stimulating skin biochemistry. Skin care products need to be below the skins pH of 4.5 - 6.0 to create maximum activity on the skin. Maximum activity is achieved when the pH is between 1.8 - 4.8. pH 3.8 = Sanitas Glycolic Citrus Cleanser pH 4.5 6.0 = Skin pH is potential hydrogen on the scale. Acid solutions are primarily hydrogen ions. Alkaline solutions are primarily hydroxyl ions (loss of hydrogen). Pure water ions are equal. 5. Mild Medicated Toner pH 6.7 Hydrating Toner pH 3.7 6. More about Toner Traditional toners consist of moisturizers, oils and extracts that help soothe your skin. Astringents, which are generally alcohol-based, tighten the skin and pores and remove oil. Fresheners work similarly to astringents by tightening the skin, but they are made of ingredients like caffeine and green tea instead of alcohol. Toners work to balance the skin, particularly after using a cleanser that can throw off pH balance. 7. pH 5.2 pH 4.5 8. pH 5.8 pH 5.3 9. pH 1.1pH 1.7 pH 2.0 pH 2.4pH 2.3pH 2.1 pH 3.2 14% Lactic 14% Salicylic 14% Resorcinol 10. 1. Cleanse with Glycolic Citrus Cleanser. 2. Apply the Tri-Peel Pretreatment directly from the bottle onto a 2 gauze square. Using firm pressure, apply to the face and neck. Beginning with the forehead work your way down the face, ending with the neck and chest. On affected areas of hyperpigmentation, use a more vigorous scrubbing movement. Allow the Tri-Peel Pretreatment to dry completely, do not rinse off the solution. 3. Saturate a gauze square with TCA 10% . Using vertical strokes and firm pressure, begin applying TCA 10% at the eyebrows and move up to the hairline. Repeat the forehead application process horizontally. Use horizontal and vertical strokes to apply TCA 10% to the rest of the face, neck and dcollet. Saturate the gauze square with peel solution as necessary to ensure an even application of the product. (Chemical peels are technique sensitive so method of application will affect the depth of the peel). Wait 7 to 10 minutes between each layer. 4. Apply a second layer of the TCA 10% . *Dependent upon skin type. 5. Apply a third layer of TCA 10% to the areas of hyperpigmentation only. Do not exceed three layers. *Dependent upon skin type. 6. Protect with a layer of Solar Block. 7. Appropriate Santas Post Peel Kit For best results it is important to use this kit after the peel and between peels in the series for best results. Estheticians: It may be more comfortable for the client to have a fan held near the face during application of multiple layers. *Applying a second and third layer will be dependent upon the erythema and the blanching level of the skin. For clients that are higher Fitzpatrick or prone to post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation, begin by applying only one layer, (step 3) and add additional layers only to the hyperpigmented areas of the face, neck and dcollet. Santas Lightening TCA Perfection Peel All Skin Types Have client review and sign the Santas consent form for chemical peel Suitable for all skin types. Do not use on pregnant or lactating clients. 11. Santas offers a unique approach to sun protection. Many sun care products feature toxic chemicals that do not offer full spectrum protection from the sun and can actually accelerate the aging process. At Santas we do not formulate our products using toxic sunscreen chemicals or drugs. We feature topically delivered sun protection nutrients that respect the skin and enhance its inherent ability to protect itself. In addition to providing full protection from UVA, UVB and UVC rays, Santas Solar Block nourishes and heals the skin with ingredients such as Zinc Oxide and anti-aging vitamins. Skin Type N: Normal C: Combination O: Oily D: Dry Melanin and Vitamins A, E and C support and protect the skin against redness. Solar Block is compatible with a moisturizer and under makeup and is gentle enough for sensitive skin and babies. A light sunscreen that protects the skin from UVA, UVB and UVC rays. Moisturizes without oil, absorbs quickly leaving no residue Micronized Zinc Oxide and Vitamin C act as a UV block and healing aid. Natural enzymes maximize sun protection. Anti-aging and wound healing properties. 12. Solar Block Science Melanin Biogenic improves sun protection properties Zinc Oxide Blocks UVA, UVB, UVC rays, accelerates skin healing Beta Glucan Stimulates skin immunity, anti-aging, UV protectant Vitamin C Protects, heals and stimulates collagen production Vitamin A Stabilizes skin cell growth, improves texture, firms and smoothes Tocotrienols(Vitamin E) Biogenic skin conditioner, heals and provides sun protection Hyaluronic Acid Powerful humectant, promotes wound healing, softens skin Galactoarabinan Skin-softening polysaccharide, improves skin immunity Plankton extract Source of sun protection enzymes LecithinEnhances transdermal delivery, anti-irritant 13. Zinc Oxide in Sunscreen Provides an excellent barrier to the sun and other irritants. Somewhat astringent, antiseptic and antibacterial UVA and UVB protection and can contribute to or increase SPF. At the appropriate particle size, zinc oxide is transparent in the visible light spectrum but opaque in the UVC Ranges, thereby avoiding a whitening effect when incorporated into sunscreen preparations. FDA approved sunscreen chemical. Synergistic effect when combined with organic sunscreens. It is also used when a white color is desired for a product. It is obtained from zinc ore, a commonly found mineral and is relatively non-allergenic. 14. In 1938, Franz Greiter first invented commercially available sunscreen, Glacier Cream. The active component consisted of zinc oxide. Zinc oxide acts as a physical barrier that sits on the surface of your skin; it offers the same protection as wearing a long sleeve shirt. Zinc oxide has been approved by the FDA and has been shown to be photo-stable against both UV-A and UV-B sun-rays. Because it is not absorbed into the skin, it is nonirritating, non-allergenic, and non-comedogenic (does not cause acne). Todays Micronized zinc oxide has the safety profile of traditional zinc oxide sunscreen and is as aesthetically appealing as modern day sunscreens. What is Micronized Zinc Oxide: Micronized zinc oxide has been treated to reduce the average size of its particles, producing an ultra-fine powder. Various terms like ultra- fine, nano-sized, and micronized are used interchangeably. Nano-particles of zinc oxide will not penetrate healthy human skin below the stratum corneum. When micronized zinc oxide is applied in the form of a lotion it is not absorbed into the body, does not enter the bloodstream and has no dangerous side effects unless it is inhaled. The biggest concern with nano-particles in cosmetics is the threat of inhalation when they are used in powders and sprays. Todays common chemical sunscreens are of molecular size cable of penetrating beyond the skins stratum corneum and possibly into the bloodstream. The Environmental Working Group recommends the use of nano-sized mineral sunscreens over chemical sunscreens. Zinc Oxide, a physical sun screen, yesterday and today 15. Melanin A water soluble from of melanin that can be formulated into a product as a free-radical scavenger. Melanin can be naturally extracted from cuttlefish ink or synthetically produced. Research indicates that when employed as a sunscreen, melanin provides better UVA protection and requires lower usage concentrations that other available sunscreens. Its safety is supported through studies conducted with radioactive melanin, which showed no penetration through human skin. 16. About Melanin in skincare products Over 350 Articles found on Medline Potential uses include: Anti-Oxidant Anti-Melanoma Therapy Melanins biological functions include: Photoreceptor shielding Thermoregulation Photoprotection Camouflage 17. Sanitas Summary Sanitas Skincare is a company that believes true cosmetic beauty comes from overall wellbeing-which is fitting considering that Sanitas is Latin for 'good health. Their philosophy is that each ingredient should work in harmony with the body's own biochemistry rather than fight against it. That is why they employ biogenic ingredients that are found naturally in our bodies-because our skin, when properly nourished, is able to heal and regenerate itself naturally. By avoiding waxes, emulsifying agents and other synthetic fillers, Sanitas carefully formulates all of their products to utilize only a few active ingredients to help nourish and stimulate skin to bring it back to its normal, healthy state. 18. Resources http://www.sanitasskincare.com retrieved 6/10/14. http://www.huffingtonpost.ca/dr-mike retrieved 6/10/14. http://www.health.howstuffworks.com/skin-care/beauty/skin- toner1.htm retrieved 6/10/14. http://www.ncbi.nih.gov/pubmed/9451820 int J Biochem Cell Biol. 1997 Nov;29(11): 1235-9. Indian J Dermatol. 2012 Sep- Oct; 57(5): 335-342. doi: update photoprotection 10.4130/0014-5Melanin retrieved 6/10/14. cengage.com, Miladys Skin Care and Cosmetic Ingredients Dictionary, Third Edition, Natalia Michalun and M. Varinia Michalun. 2010 Cengage Learning, Clifton Park, NY 12065. 22