evaluation and comparing the drape co efficient of weft knit ... - 1540.pdfdrape meter is used to...

Evaluation and Comparing the Drape Co efficient of Weft

Knit Structures

Archana V C

Assistant Professor

Department of Fashion Technology and Costume Designing

Jamal Mohamed College, Trichy

[email protected]

Abstract

Drape is an essential property that influences the aesthetic appearance of fabrics used in

clothing. The yarns are chosen from the same count and the fabric produced by the technique

of knitting. The loop lengths are fixed while knitting and a correlation is made between these

fabrics in three different stages and diverse variations. A comparison is made to assess the

drape coefficient and the handle properties of the specified knitted fabrics. . The drape ability

or the drape coefficient of weft knitted fabric has been evaluated by the Ammonium drape

meter. The number of nodes, area and the weight formed during the drape analysis

determines the drape coefficient of the fabric.

Keywords: Ammonia drape meter, Bamboo cotton, Drape, Drape Coefficient, Interlock,

Modal, Rib, Viscose, Nodes, stitch variations, Lining Variations

1. Introduction

The drape is the tendency of the fabric to assume a graceful appearance. It is

an important property of a textile material that allows the fabric to be balanced into graceful

folds or pleats as a result of the force of gravity. Drape is defined as “the extent to which a

fabric will deform when it is allowed to hang under its own weight” British standard institute

(1974). The fabric is supposed to have good drape ability when its arrangement is pleasing to

the eyes. It is the outcome of the liaison between the yarns in the fabric. The drape is

specifically meant to consider the drop of the fabric. The garments must drape well, ensuring

their fit for the wearer. Home furnishings such as curtains, screens, tablecloths, bedspreads

and other such draperies should have a nice drape that is pleasing to the eyes. Different fabric

has a different drape coefficient which varies depending on the type of fiber, yarn and fabric.

A woven fabric varies in its drape properties depending on the type of weave and the yarns

count. For example, a fabric made of 40s count crepe weave has a different drape as

compared to a twill rib or a plain weave with the same count of yarns.

The Cellulosic fibers are cellulose-structured fibers formed by dissolving

natural materials, such as cellulose or wood pulp, which are then regenerated by the process

Pramana Research Journal

Volume 10, Issue 4, 2020

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https://pramanaresearch.org/184

of extrusion and precipitation. The cellulose fibers selected for Evaluation are 50-50 Bamboo

Cotton, Modal and Viscose. Yarns with various counts are often used for specific purposes.

The yarns used primarily for clothing and fine quality garments are of 40 s count. The count

of the yarns determines the thickness of the yarns and the ability to develop into the fabric. In

the knitting process, the fabric is constructed in the Rib and Interlock structures, where the

loop length is set so that the thickness factor of the fabrics can be calculated. The thickness

factor influences the handle and stiffness of the fabric that affects the drape of the cloth. The

normal atmospheric conditions under which the fabrics are subjected for relaxation for 24

hours that allows the structure of the fabric to sustain its stability under accordance with

atmospheric requirements.

According to IS-8357/1977 the drape is defined as the extent to which a fabric

will deform when it is allowed to hang under its own weight. According to BS-5058/1973 the

drape of fabric is defined in similar way. According to BS-5058/1973, it is defined as the

percentage of the total area to an annular ring of fabric obtained by vertically projecting the

shadow of the draped specimen. According IS-8357/1977, it is defined as the area covered by

the shadow of the draped specimen expressed as percentage of the area of the annular ring of

fabric. The application of dye and finishes on the surface of the fabric will have a detrimental

effect on the properties of the fabric. The aesthetic appeal of the fabric and garments

increases, which will also lead in some variations in the drape of the garment. An ammonium

Drape meter is used to determine the drape coefficient of the fabrics with the area and the

weight.

1.2. Objectives

The main objectives of the study are

1) Construction of Rib and Interlock fabrics with a loop length of 0.27, 0.29 and 0.31 loops

with a yarn count of 40s.

2) To assess the drape coefficient of the samples in dry relaxed, wet relaxed and fully relaxed

state

3) To evaluate the drape of the samples with stitch and inter lining variations.

4) Comparison and evaluating the drape coefficient of all samples

2. Methodology

The drape evaluation is conducted with three regenerated cellulose fibers

produced in the form of yarns of similar counts these fibers are identical in nature on the

basis of their physical properties. These include 50-50 bamboo cotton that has wicking

properties, a modal that is also known as the High Wet Modulus Rayon that ensures more

strength in its wet level and Viscose, called artificial silk, has a strong absorbency. The

reason for the preference of these fibers is that all three fibers have the same amount of wood

cellulose as their core. Bamboo cotton consists of 50 per cent of bamboo and 50 per cent of



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cotton, a modal made of birch and oak trees that undergo various processes for the extraction

of fiber. Viscose is the first regenerated cellulose fiber made of wood pulp.

The thickness of the yarn is evaluated by the Yarn count. The yarn of the 40S count is chosen

for the study since these yarns are finer and, in the present scenario, the garments or fabrics

that are finer in their consistency and handle are the most favored. The 40s count yarns of

bamboo cotton, modal and viscose are chosen and purchased directly for the study.

Knitting is the inter looping method where these yarns are knitted in a double

jersey of 28 inches dia knitting machine for the production of 1x1 rib and Interlock structures.

The length of the loop of 0.27, 0.29 and 0.31 is fixed for all three yarns and the two structures

are formed. The length of the loop specifies the thickness factor of the fabric

2.1 Relaxation Techniques

The fabrics can adjust the stability of the dimensions at different stages to

obtain minimum internal energy and maximum shrinkage. The properties of the fabric vary in

its drape stiffness and handling at various processing stages. Relaxation methods are those

under which the fabrics are subject to certain requirements of ambient conditions and

temperature. Owing to stress in knitting and tension transferred to yarns during knitting, there

may be some differences in testing and their properties. To avoid this after the knitting

phase, the grey fabrics are allowed to remain stable at room temperature for 2-3 days and this

is the Dry relaxed stage of the fabric. The standard atmospheric conditions are maintained

with a prevailing barometric pressure relative humidity 0f 65+-2% and temperature of 20oc.

After the dyeing and finishing process, the fabric is again subjected to the standard

atmospheric conditions for 24 hours and this helps to maintain stability after the processing

stage and this process is called Wet Relaxed Stage Later the fabric is washed with warm water

dried and let it to stabilize in the standard atmospheric conditions for 24 hours and it is the

Fully Relaxed Stage.

2.1 Drape Analysis

The drape evaluation is carried out using the ammonium drape meter

according to the Bureau of Indian Standards IS 8357:1977. Ammonium drape meter consists

of a prototype size of a circular sample of 10 "in diameter. The principle of the drape meter is

based on the number of nodes developed during the construction of the drape. The nodes

depend on the elastic properties of the material used and vary according to sample. The drape

meter consists of two compartments, one with the top light source of Mercury, which focuses

on the circular disk where the sample is fixed and a glass plate under which the ammonia

paper is placed. The second compartment is at the bottom where the ammonium hydroxide

solution is kept. The sample is modified five to ten times in order to achieve the right drape.

The fabrics drop on the supporting disk due to the gravity and the ammonium hydroxide

fumes up and the shadows falls on the paper. The undraped portion of the paper is exposed

and the draped portion is immediately traced. The drape coefficient shall be determined by

the ratio of the projected area of the sample and its undraped area and deduction of the area of

the supporting disc. The drape coefficient F can be calculated as



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𝐹 =𝐴𝑠−𝐴𝑑

𝐴𝐷−𝐴𝑑 .,

Ad-area of the specimen, Ad – area of the supporting disc, As-projected area of specimen

The weight of the paper projection can also be considered to measure the drape coefficient

instead of the area of the irregular form with the consideration to its thickness

𝐹 =𝑊𝑠−𝑊𝑑

𝑊𝐷−𝐴𝑑

WD-weight of paper whose area is equal to area of specimen, Wd-weight equal to the area of

supporting disc, Ws-weight of paper equal to the projected area of specimen. The F values

indicate the drape ability of the fabric. Small values indicates good drape and large values

indicates a poor drape.

Figure-1 Ammonium Drape meter

2.2 Drape Analysis in Relaxation stages

Three Bamboo cotton, modal and viscose fabric samples of three different

loop lengths 0.27, 0.29 and 0.31 with two different knit structures in three different relaxed

phases are subject to drape analysis. In the dry relaxed stage the grey fabric of rib and

interlock of bamboo cotton, modal and viscose are tested .Similar to this the fabric samples in

the wet relaxed stage and in the fully relaxed stages the drape coefficient is determined. The

Nomenclature for the samples is given in Table -1

Nomenclature of the samples

Table-1 Nomenclature of the samples

Table-1- Nomenclature of samples with loop lengths

S.No Sample Sampl

e code

Loop

lengt

h

0.27

Loop

length

0.29

Loop

lengt

h

0.31

1 Bamboo cotton Rib BR BR1 BR2 BR3

2 Modal Rib MR MR1 MR2 MR3

3 Viscose Rib VR VR1 VR2 VR3

4 BambooCotton

Interlock

BI BI1 BI2 BI3

5 Modal Interlock MI MI1 MI2 MI3

6 Viscose Interlock VI VI1 VI2 VI3



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2.3 Drape Analysis with Variations

The drape analysis is performed with two types of variations the stitch

variation and the interlining variations .The stitch variation is done to test the difference in

the drape after the garment has been stitched. The motion of the sewing needles on the fabric

that affect the coefficient of drape so that the widely used stitches are applied to all types of

fabrics and the coefficient of drape is analyzed. The stitch type and the machines used for the

stitch variation is mentioned in Table 2

Sewing machine and Stitch Types

S.No Machine Detail Single

needle

Lock Stitch

3-Thread Flat lock

1. Brand name Siruba Siruba 737E

2. Make Taiwan Taiwan

3. Feed Mechanism Drop feed Differential Feed

4. Needle System Dbx1 Dbx1

5. Machine Power ¼ HP ¼ HP

6. Sewing Thread Cotton Cotton

7. Thread ticket

number

120 120

8. Thread Ply

number

2 2

Table-2 Stitch-I-single needle lock stitch and Stitch-II -3 Thread Flat Lock

The drape is measured with an interlinear variation of 100% cotton woven fabric.

The count of fabric selected for the study is 40 and 80. The fabric is desized and conditioned to

standard atmospheric conditions and the fabric is placed below each sample and the drape is

assessed. This is done to understand the drape quality of the interlined garment. The properties

of Interlining fabric such as the count, Cover factor, and GSM is assessed in table 3

Interlining and its properties

S.n

o

Sample code Cou

nt

Warp(c

m)

Weft(c

m)

GSM Thickne

ss(mm)

1 Lining-I 40 68 64 115 0.55

2 Lining-II 80 66 63 105 0.40

Table-3 Lining Variations –Cotton woven fabric

3. Results and Discussion

The drape analysis is to determine the coefficient of drape and the nodes of the

samples. The drape coefficient of each sample should be with the calculation of number of

nodes. Averages of 10 samples are evaluated and the average values of each sample are

determined. The drape coefficient of the 1x1 rib fabric and interlock samples are calculated

in dry relaxed, wet relaxed and fully relaxed stage. The loop lengths of the fabrics are 0.27,

0.29 and 0.31 mm. The fabrics are subjected to Standard testing conditions as they will not

show any differences in readings if tested after.



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Drape Coefficient of Rib samples

S.n

o

sam

ple

Dry

Relaxed

Wet

Relaxed

Fully

relaxed

DC

% N

DC

% N

DC

% N

1 BR1 67.

9

9.2

5

67.

0 9.75

57.

5 10

2 BR2 70.

5 9

67.

2 9.5

61.

7 9.25

3 BR3 73.

9

8.2

5

71.

3 9.25

63.

7 9

4 MR

1

70.

8

9.7

5

55.

7

12.2

5

56.

4 12

5 MR

2

71.

7

8.2

5

61.

6

10.2

5

58.

4 11.5

6 MR

3

72.

2

7.2

5

63.

8 11.5

66.

1

11.7

5

7 VR1 65.

9 9

59.

8 11.5

54.

1 12

8 VR2 71.

0

8.7

5

60.

2 11.5

55.

4 10.5

9 VR3 73.

9 8.5

62.

3 11.5

57.

9

11.2

5

Table-4-Drape Coefficient –DC% N- Number of Nodes of Three phases of 1x1 rib structure

Figure-2 Drape Coefficient of Rib

It is clear from the above table and graph that the viscose rib in its wet relaxed with a loop

length of 0.27 has a strong drape coefficient as compared to the other samples. It is also

shown that the Dry relaxed samples show good drape properties compared to the other two

phases. The numbers of nodes higher in the sample have strong drapes a property the drape

coefficient is efficient in dry relaxed stage and is moderate when it wet relaxes and minimal

in fully relaxed state. This may be due to the process that might affected the elastic property

0

20

40

60

80

BR

1

BR

2

BR

3

MR

1

MR

2

MR

3

VR

1

VR

2

VR

3

dry relaxed

wet relaxed

fully relaxed



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Drape Coefficient of Interlock samples

Table-5-Drape Coefficient –DC% N- Number of Nodes of Three phases of Interlock

structures

Figure-3 Drape Coefficient of Interlock

The interlock samples have a similar drape coefficient to that of the rib. Similar

to the rib the viscose has a strong drape coefficient like the rib. But the difference between

the interlock and the rib is that the fully relaxed stage dives a higher drape coefficient than

the wet relaxed stage seen in the rib. The modal has a low drape coefficient compared to

bamboo cotton, which has a moderate drape. Compared to the same interlock structure, the

drape coefficient is efficient in a fully relaxed stage and moderate when wet and low when

dry relaxed. This could be due to a phase that may have influenced the elastic properties

0

20

40

60

80

BI1 BI2 BI3 MI1MI2MI3 VI1 VI2 VI3

Dry Relaxed

Wet Relaxed

Fully relaxed

S.n

o

samp

le

Dry

Relaxed

Wet

Relaxed

Fully

relaxed

DC

% N

DC

% N

DC

% N

1 BI1 68.

5 8.5 67.5 8.25 64.6 9.25

2 BI2 71.

7 8 70.3 8.25 66.7 8.25

3 BI3 73.

7 7.5 71.6 8.5 67.0 8.5

4 MI1 67.

5 8.5 56.0

12.2

5 54.3 11.5

5 MI2 70.

3 8 61.8 11.5 55 11.5

6 MI3 72.

5

6.7

5 63.8

11.2

5 56.3 11

7 VI1 57.

8 8.5 57.4

11.2

5 54.1 12

8 VI2 64.

9

7.7

5 58.0 11.5 55.4 10.5

9 VI3 67.

8

7.2

5 59.4

10.2

5 57.9

11.2

5



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The drape coefficient of interlock and 1x1 rib structures with the stitch

variations are to ensure when a garment is stitched it will surely have an effect on its fitness

and drape. The commonly used stitches in knitted garments are single needle lock stitch 101

and 3 thread flat lock stitches 504.These stitches affects the property of the garment as they

are mainly used for hemming. The stitches are sewn in cross wise over the 10” template

sample and the drape is analyzed

Drape Coefficient of 1x1rib samples with stitch variation I and II

S.n

o

samp

le

Dry

Relaxed

Wet

Relaxed

Fully

relaxed

ST-

1

ST-

2

ST-

1

ST-

2

ST-

1

ST-

2

1 BR1 76.

5

76.

6 62.9 71.9 66.4 65.1

2 BR2 77.

3

76.

9 65.9 73 72.8 67.4

3 BR3 78.

5

79.

9 69.7 75.8 73 72.2

4 MR1 75.

2

75.

5 60.4 77.4 52.9 63.2

5 MR2 77.

3

76.

5 63.5 78.3 55.9 68

6 MR3 80.

9 79 67.5 79.2 56.7 71.7

7 VR1 75.

3

68.

6 55.9 75.9 52.8 62.8

8 VR2 76.

5

71.

8 57.1 77.4 53.2 68.3

9 VR3 77.

6

78.

9 59.0 79.6 55.7 72.5

Table-6-Drape Coefficient of rib with stitch variations

ST1-Single Needle Lock stitch and ST2-3 thread Flat lock stitch

Figure-4 Drape Coefficient of Rib with stitch I and stitch II variation

0

20

40

60

80

100Dry Relaxed

WetRelaxed

Fully relaxed 0

20

40

60

80

100

BR

1

BR

3

MR

2

VR

1

VR

3

Dry Relaxed

WetRelaxed

Fully relaxed



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From the table we can infer that the drape coefficient is good in stitch I variation that is the

single needle lock stitch as compared to stitch II variation. As compared to all samples the

viscose rayon in the fully relaxed stage has a good drape coefficient the loop length of the

sample is 0.27 and the number of nodes is 11.5. In stitch II variance, the same viscose rayon

reveals the maximum drape coefficient and the bamboo cotton minimum drape coefficient.

Drape Coefficient of Interlock samples with stitch variation I and II

S.n

o

samp

le

Dry

Relaxed

Wet

Relaxed

Fully

relaxed

ST-1 ST-

2 ST-1 ST-2 ST-1 ST-2

1 BI1 77.5 76.0 62.9 66.8 66.4 65.1

2 BI2 81.6 78.5 65.9 67.2 72.8 66.5

3 BI3 84.1 79.9 69.7 67.7 73 67.8

4 MI1 73.8 77.5 60.4 58.4 58.7 54.8

5 MI2 74.3 78.1 63.5 61.7 60.4 56.0

6 MI3 76.2 81.2 67.5 62.0 65.0 58.7

7 VI1 70.9 74.5 55.9 56.2 54.0 53.2

8 VI2 72.0 75.5 57.1 58.7 55.4 55.8

9 VI3 74.8 76.5 59.0 59.2 57.7 54.8

Table-7-Drape Coefficient of Interlock with stitch variations

ST1-Single Needle Lock stitch and ST2-3 thread Flat lock stitch

Figure-5 Drape Coefficient of Interlock with stitch I and stitch II variations

When the interlock samples with the two types of stitch variants are subjected to drape the

viscose rayon in its fully relaxed loop length stage 0.27 has a maximum drape coefficient of

53.2. The Stitch 2 variant offers a strong drape along with the fabric. The 3 thread flat lock is

appropriate for interlock fabric clothing. In an overall comparison the stitch 1 is more

effective than stitch 2.Accordingly to the drape values the fully relaxed state in stitch II is

effective on the fabric

The interlining is the core component of the fabric. They play a major role in

the sewing as well as in the fitting of clothing that they often avoid in the draping of much

0

20

40

60

80

100

BI1 BI3 MI2 VI1 VI3

Dry Relaxed

Wet Relaxed

Fully relaxed0

20

40

60

80

100

BI1 BI3 MI2 VI1 VI3

Dry Relaxed

Wet Relaxed

Fully relaxed



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flimsy fabrics. The interlining is less used in knitted fabrics, but the widely used fabrics are

40s and 80s. They conform well to the fabric and do not affect the handle properties of the

fabric.

Each of the Interlinings of 40S and 80s count are placed separately below the

rib of all the three stages and the Evaluation of drape is carried out. The properties of the

interlinings just varies in its thickness and strength and care is taken to maintain all other

properties

Drape Coefficient of 1x1rib samples with lining variation of 40S and 80s

S.n

o

sampl

e

Dry

Relaxed

Wet

Relaxed

Fully

relaxed

40’s 80’s 40’s 80’s 40’s 80’s

1 BR1 76.5 77.

5 74.4 73.5 66.7 64.9

2 BR2 77.3 79.

6 76.8 74.6 75.9 73.7

3 BR3 78.5 81.

1 78.6 78.4 76.7 75.1

4 MR1 73.2 74.

8 69.0 73.7 73.4 67.5

5 MR2 77.3 77.

3 71.7 76.2 77.5 72.4

6 MR3 79.9 78.

2 75.4 79.3 79.2 74.1

7 VR1 75.5 72.

8 69.5 71.4 63.5 65.4

8 VR2 77.3 74.

0 72.5 75.3 69.2 67.5

9 VR3 77.6 78.

9 76.2 74.2 69.7 73.9

Table-8 Drape Coefficient of 1x1 Rib with lining variations

Figure-6 Drape Coefficient of 1x1 Rib with lining variations of 40s and 80s

0

50

100

Dry Relaxed

Wet Relaxed

Fully relaxed 0

50

100 DryRelaxed

WetRelaxed

Fullyrelaxed



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In the rib structure both the interlinings in some cases shows the similar

drape efficiency. The bamboo cotton in its fully relaxed state have the good drape property

but similar to other fabrics the viscose rayon shows a best drape in lining 1 variation of 40S

count fabric. The values of drape coefficient with the interlinings are higher than all the other

fabrics. The bamboo cotton has a moderate drape values and modal has minimal values

The coefficient of drape is analyzed for ribs similar to interlock with liners of

40S and 80s count cotton fabrics is also evaluated The two fabrics of one liner and the other

sample are put together in the drape coefficient test

Drape Coefficient of Interlock samples with Lining variations

S.no sampl

e

Dry Relaxed Wet Relaxed Fully relaxed

40’s 80’s 40’s 80’s 40’s 80’s

1 BI1 76.2 74.4 76.1 73.5 66.7 67.5

2 BI2 78 76.8 78.5 74.6 75.9 70.5

3 BI3 79.6 78.6 78.9 78.4 76.7 76.7

4 MI1 72.4 69.0 73.2 73.7 73.4 65.5

5 MI2 74.1 71.7 77.1 76.2 77.5 60.3

6 MI3 77.2 75.4 83 79.3 79.2 61.5

7 VI1 70.7 69.5 77.4 71.4 63.5 66.8

8 VI2 73.4 72.5 78.8 75.3 69.2 69.3

9 VI3 74.2 76.2 79 74.2 69.7 67.4

Table-9-Drape Coefficient of Interlock with lining variations of 40s and 80s

Figure-7 Drape Coefficient of Interlock with lining variations of 40s and 80s

From the table we can infer that the viscose radius in a fully relaxed state

shows a better drape coefficient than every other sample, the bamboo cotton also displays

some of the same properties to the viscose. The fully relaxed stage is much better than the dry

relaxed state. The 0.27 loop length is higher in its drape than the other two.

4. Conclusion

The coefficient of drape is measured in various fabrics in various loop

Lengths. We can eventually understand as the fabric in fully relaxed stage has a good drape

.This can be due to its interaction with dyes and chemical compounds the properties of the

tissue changes. The completely relaxed samples have a strong coefficient of drape in all the

0

20

40

60

80

100

BI1 BI3 MI2 VI1 VI3

DryRelaxed

WetRelaxed

Fullyrelaxed

0

20

40

60

80

100

BI1 BI3 MI2 VI1 VI3

Dry Relaxed

WetRelaxed

Fully relaxed



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parameters. All the fabrics have similar properties with a small difference in their coefficient

of drape. Since all fabrics are made of regenerated cellulose fibers, Viscose concentrated a

good drape in all parameters. The viscose rib and Interlock drape coefficient in its completely

relaxed stage with a loop length of 0.27 was good compared to other fabrics. The modal

showed a strong viscose drape with slightly higher values and lower than bamboo cotton. The

variations also showed strong viscose results. Viscose has been shown to have a strong drape

coefficient. In the Lu strum we have seen a range of rayon clothing more demand in our

Indian market. This is due to the softness and feel of the viscose. Many adolescents prefer

rayon clothing in the form of casual wear and night suits. These are the initial inventions of

the regenerated fabrics, but they still prove their competency.

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14. British Standards Institute. 1953 “Methods of Tests for Textiles BS 1932: 1953.” B S

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ISSN NO: 2249-2976


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