KATHMANDU http://www.lonelyplanet.com/nepal/kathmandu

TRAVELThere are three important rules with flights out of Kathmandu: reconfirm, reconfirm andreconfirm! You should reconfirm when you first arrive in Nepal and reconfirm again towards theend of your stay.

General tips∙ Buy your snacks in Kathmandu (e.g. digestives, chocolate, trail mix) for the trek. power bars,

plenty of batteries for your camera and toilet paper. You'll find the prices much higher and theselection much less in the mountains.

∙ Not sure if you are using these but I swear by liner socks under my regular socks. Hugedifference in comfort and moisture management. These wash and dry quickly, and I found I didn'thave to wash my regular socks as often and still made friends!

∙ Carry a small quantity of washing powder∙ Book an open ticket for your return flight but take your best guess and your return date you will

want to fly out of Lukla, Then if you are on time fine, but if you are either running early or late youcan ring the airline office from Namche to book flights on the next available aircraft to suit.

∙ Tight fitting, figure­hugging clothing, such as those made with Lycra can often be offensive tolocals, especially on women. If you find these items comfortable as a base layer then pleasepack something to wear over the top of them

WEATHER (LATE MAY / EARLY JUNE)February­May is the tail end of the dry season: visibility is not so good because of dust, but theweather is warm and many of Nepal's wonderful wild flowers are in bloom. InApril/May Base Camp can be around –10to–7c in the early evening. Mornings are bright andclear with the air slowly becoming hazier as the day progresses. However, it is more likely toinclude rain showers, hazy skies, wet and muddy trail conditions and possible flight delays. Beprepared with wet weather gear

AIRPORT VISA ($25)It can take over an hour for the Nepal entry visa that is $25 for 15 days. Have a downloaded andcompleted copy with photo ready.

TREKKING TIMS CARD ($20)As per the new provision, trekkers are required to take TIMS Card from Nepal Tourism Board(NTB) and Trekking Agencies' Association of Nepal (TAAN) before starting their trek. Trekkerstravelling in groups can get the TIMS card upon paying $10 each while those preferring to travelindividually need to pay $20.Kathmandu (NTB Office, TAAN Office, and Government registered trekking Companies) Toobtain TIMS Card you need a Passport copy and two copies of Passport­size Photographs.

Can organize via Nirmal: n2@vianet.com.np

But basically he will arrange both permits for you for a fee of around $45 including the price of thePermits. You will have to email him your passport details, then you attach the photographs andpay the fee when you arriveDay to day itinerary:

Arrive Kathmandu 21st May 6pm.Stay one night. Need to book hotel.

Everest Base Camp Trek (12 days)

TREK FACTSStarting from: LuklaEnding at: LuklaType of trek: TeahouseGrade: Moderate­difficultCulture: SherpaHighest access of the trek: 5500mHimalayan Sightseeing: Everest, Amadablam, Lhotse, etc

Sunday 22ndDay 01 Fly to Lukla at 2840m and trek to Phakding 2610mFrom Lukla the scenic trail proceeds through beautiful Sherpa villages and lush valleys beforespending a day to acclimatize and perhaps enjoy the colorful Saturday market at NamcheBazaar.

Monday 23rdDay 02 Trek to Namche Bazaar at 3440m.Laundry available.

Tuesday 24thDay 03 Acclimatize in Namche Bazar, morning visit Everest view point form there you will havefirst glimpse of Mt. Everest and stunning views of other mountains­ Ama Dablam, Lhotse,Khantenga, Thamserku and more.

Wednesday 25thDay 04 Trek to Tengboche at 3860m.Tengboche ­ also home to the world’s highest Buddhist monastery.

Thursday 26thDay 05 Trek to Dingboche at 4410m.Dingboche boasts more stunning views of the mountains, villages and valleys and allowsanother day for acclimatization.

Friday 27thDay 06 to Lobuche (4930 m.)

Saturday 28thDay 07 Trek Gorak Shep 5100m via Everest Base Camp 5300mOn to Gorak Shep, you will pass monuments erected to commemorate the deaths of (several)Sherpas who perished in avalanches.

Sunday 29thDay 08 Periche 4200m via Kala Pattar 5500m

Morning explore around the Khumbu Glacier or climb up to Kalapathar for the last best view ofyour dream about Mt. Everest, have a breakfast and trek back to Pangboche camp site again.

The return trek continues to delight adventurous souls with more spectacular mountain views,lush forested valleys, and opportunities to learn about the Nepalese religion and culture.

Nepal is a country of friendly people, beautiful scenery, and a great variety of cultural traditions.This journey into the world's most impressive mountain range will create lasting memories andinstill a sense of accomplishment.

The Everest Base Camp consists of semi­permanent camps set up by mountaineers and Mt.Everest is not visible from this area. Hike to Kala Pattar, a shelf at the foot of Mt. Pumori and seethe spectacular views unfold of the south face of Mt. Everest. With a sense of achievement andthe thrill of the return journey (from Everest Base Camp), it will be time to head back to Lukla.

Monday 30thDay 09 Trek to Namche Bazar

Tuesday 31stDay 10 Trek to Phakding / Lukla

Wednesday 1st JuneDay 11 Trek to Lukla, have a lunch and rest at teahouse lodge or afternoon free for personalactivities.

Thursday 2nd JuneDay 12 Early in the morning fly back from Lukla to Kathmandu, end the trip and transfer to hotel,

rest and afternoon free for personal activities.

Buffer day 3rd June.

Fly back home 4th June.

TIPPING FOR SHERPA GUIDE / PORTERNormal levels are 1 days pay for each week of a trek, your Guide will be on about $20 /$25 perday and the porters around $10 /$15 per day

Tips should be given out individually to each member of staff, usually on the last evening of yourtrek. It’s is a good idea to take some nice envelopes with you to put the money in and make alittle party when giving out your tips to make your staff feel Really Appreciated

Kit listIn a supported trek, heavy items are carried by porters or Yaks during the trek and personalbelongings of the trekkers that they may need for the day like money, water bottle, rain gear,camera, sun cream and toilet paper etc. should be carried by you. So you are briefed to packitems in two different bags.

General∙ Duffel or Rucksack bag∙ Daypack∙ Down Jacket∙ 4 seasons Sleeping bag

Upper Body ­ Head / Ears / Eyes∙ Shade hat or baseball cap ­ some people drape a bandana down the back of their head and

then put a baseball cap on to hold it is place. This can be a flexible alternative while keeping thesun off your ears and neck.

∙ Warm wool or synthetic hat that cover your ears∙ Balaclava ­ The lightweight, thinner variety∙ Glacier glasses 100% UV protection with side shields and a hard­sided storage case (i.e. Julbo

or Cebe). This is to protect your eyes from the stronger rays of the sun due to the thinneratmosphere which can cause a painful condition known as snow blindness. Regular sunglassesare not sufficient. If you wear prescription glasses, speak to your doctor about prescriptionglacier glasses, perhaps with transitional lenses

∙ Headlamp ­ Make sure to bring extra batteries and that they are lithium batteries so that they willlast in the colder temperatures. These are indispensable for getting around at night, reading, etc.,so don't go cheap here

∙ Some people like ear­muffs; These are optional, a good hat, balaclava, and hooded jacketshould really be sufficient, but this is a personal choice for some people.

∙ A neck warmer is another piece of gear for extra warmth if you feel you will need it

Hands∙ 1 pair liner gloves thin wool or synthetic, useful alone on mild days or as a layer inside other

gloves / mitts for additional warmth.∙ 1 pair warm gloves (heavier fleece or wool).∙ 1 Pair shell gloves or mitts Gore­Tex is preferred for keeping hands dry.∙ Instant hand warmers are always nice in a pinch, but really shouldn't be necessary on the trek.

Core Body∙ 2 cotton t­shirts.∙ 1 synthetic t­shirt.∙ 2 long sleeve polyester, or other synthetic lightweight, light colored shirts for sunny days. V­neck

zipper provides additional venting options which are good for changing temperatures.∙ 1 soft shell jacket, water resistant, with insulation, underarm ventilation zippers. Full front zipper

is preferable for ventilation.∙ 1 hard shell with hood, waterproof, pay particular attention to venting options under / on the arms

and inner chest pockets provide convenient access without taking off your pack, truly a greatdesign option.

∙ 1 medium to heavy weight expedition down parka w/hood (hire)∙ 2 women sports bras Synthetic, no cotton!

Lower Body – Legs

∙ 2­3 pairs nylon hiking shorts ­ Quick drying type, not cotton!∙ Underwear, stay away from cotton∙ 2 pair lightweight long underwear ­ capilene or other synthetic∙ 1 pair soft shell pants ­ synthetic, full zip from top and bottom preferable∙ 2 pair trekking pants, preferably that zip on/off at the knees so they double as shorts∙ 1 pair hard shell pants. Waterproof / breathable, Gore­Tex or equivalent is best. Should zip from

the top and bottom ­ this makes it easier to put on over boots without getting undressed shouldthe weather change once you are underway for the day

∙ 1 pair cotton pants (loose jeans/khakis)∙ 1 full length loose skirt. Women should plan to wear skirts or pants when walking around

Kathmandu.∙ All clothing should be kept dry using waterproof stuff sacks or large puncture resistant plastic

bags

Feet

∙ Hiking boots: Leather with a sturdy mid­sole and Vibram sole. ½ or ¾ shank, boots should bewarm and fit well over light and heavy sock combinations. Fit is much more important thanbrand. Take the time to select a pair that fits your foot, and break them in well. (Asolo, Merrill,

Scarpa, La Sportiva)∙ 4 pair of liner socks, synthetic or capilene∙ 3 pair heavy weight socks to be worn over liner socks∙ 1 pair light weight socks, a good option for the lower / warmer parts of the trail∙ 1 pair light to medium weight water proof hiking/trekking boots. Ensure a good fit with layered

socks and you have wore then before to get used to it (otherwise you will get lots of blister)∙ 1 pair light trekking shoes or trainers. Good for around the camp/lodges and in Kathmandu

Medicines and First Aid Kits∙ Extra Strength Excedrin for altitude related headaches∙ Ibuprofen for general aches and pains∙ Immodium or Pepto bismol capsules for upset stomach or diarrhea∙ Diamox (commonly prescribed as Acetazolamide) 125 or 250mg tablets for altitude sickness.

Please discuss with us before starting to take this medicine∙ 1 small personal sized first­aid kit with blister treatments such as mole skin, band aides, some

waterproof tape, anti­infection ointments, etc. Your guides will have more extensive medicalgear, but you should have the basics for general use

Miscellaneous, But Important∙ Passport and extra passport photos∙ Airline ticket(s)∙ VISA (If required and aquired in advance)∙ Immunization Record∙ Water bottles 1 liter wide­mouth Nalgene and 1 insulator∙ Lip balm. At least SPF 20. A string taped to the stick is helpful, to hang around your neck and

some are now being sold with a cord already attached. Handy as it avoid you having to stop andlook for it.

∙ Sunscreen. SPF 40 is recommended and should be relatively new since it loses its'effectiveness over time

∙ Pocket knife or small Swiss Army type∙ Water purification Iodine tablets or Polar­pure crystals∙ Toiletry kit. Be sure to include toilet paper stored in a plastic bag, hand wipes, and liquid hand

sanitizer, towel, soap, etc∙ 3­4 Large durable plastic bags, for keeping miscellaneous gear dry inside you pack. Also nice

for separating clean from dirty laundry∙ Ear plugs∙ Padlocks∙ Journal

ACCOMODATION

KathmanduHotel Holy Himalaya ($50pn) http://www.holyhimalaya.com/Acme Guest house ($10pn) http://www.acmeguesthouse.comHotel Napalaya (US$20­40) http://www.hotelnepalaya.com/

Phakding ­ I stayed at the Namaste Lodge. It's run by a very nice family and they make the bestpan­fried vegetable momos. I had them at the start of the trip and couldn't wait to get back totaste them again on the return. The rooms can be somewhat pricey (500 NPR, or $7 USD,which is still a good deal) but I highly recommend a stop at this lodge to at least try thosemomos.

NamcheCamp de Base. Camp de Base has really nice, reliable, hot showers and nice rooms.

If you need to send emails, I recommend using the Namche Cyber Cafe. Their computers arefast and the owner is really on top of things. This is opposed to the Everest Summit Cafe wheretheir computer infected my USB key with several viruses.

Likewise, there are two bakeries right across from each other. I highly recommend NamcheBakery Cafe. Friendly owner, great food, warm restaurant. Across the street is the EverestBakery, which was awful. Everest Bakery had hardly any selections and the staff never had anychange, so if you didn't have the exact amount for the bill, you basically ended up giving them ahuge tip.

From Namche, you get two chances to see Everest. One is from a hilltop called Chorkung,which has a visitor center, and is only a short 40 minute hike from Namche. The other view isfrom a gompa as you head to Tengboche so bring your camera as it makes for some greatshots.

Tengboche ­ For some reason all the Canadians I met had heard about a place called Rivendellin Debuche, but I missed it. Debuche is just 15 minutes further north and down the hill fromTengboche, so when you reach Tengboche, skip the lodges there and check in at Rivendell. Youcan still visit the excellent bakery in Tengboche (they make a delicious Dutch apple pie) and visitthe Tengboche Monastery, but everyone was talking about the good food and warm dining roomat Rivendell. I think the lodge is named after the city in Lord of the Rings.

Pheriche ­ Stay at the Himalaya Hotel. It's the middle of the town. The staff is really friendly, therooms are nice (it's not the Ritz, but the beds are bigger and nicer than most lodges I stayed at)and ­ this was a surprise! ­ before every dinner they give you a steamed towel, which everyoneused to clean the dirt off their faces after their long treks. The hotel is right next to the HimalayaRescue Post. I had my first bout with altitude sickness in Pheriche and the hotel clerk insisted Istay an extra day to acclimitize. The next morning he recommended I attend the daily 3pmlecture on altitude sickness at the Rescue Post, which turned out to be quite humourous and

entertaining.

Gorak Shep ­ There are only three lodges there and they're mostly the same. The lodge I stayedat, the Yeti Resort, is considered slightly better than the others. Make sure you bring a flashlightbecause the power was down at the lodge and the bathroom was pitch black at night. The toilet'sbasically just a hole in the ground surrounded by frozen waste so be careful. You play a bit of ajuggling act with your toilet paper and flashlight. Hilariously enough, when I compared notes withother trekkers, this still turned out to be the best toilet of the three lodges.

Kala Pattar ­ It takes about two hours to get to the top. By about 9 am the sun comes up behindEverest and obliterates it from view. You can't even look at it much less photograph it, so if youdon't start out before 7 am, wait until after 10:30 am when the sun moves higher.

Everest Base Camp ­ If you want to go there be aware there's a kind of "fake" Everest BaseCamp. It's a huge pale rock with prayer flags that says "Everest Base Camp" on it. A lot oftrekkers we met stopped there, took pictures, then turned back, a little disappointed. If you can,continue north for about another 20 minutes where you'll find the real Everest Base Camp rightat the foot of the Khumbu Glacier.

GENERAL COSTSRooms at each town go for 100 NPR ($1.43 USD) a night, which is a really nice deal, but foodand water get more and more expensive after Namche. After Pheriche, prices get noticablysteeper. Using vegetable momos as my inflation gauge, I noticed they went for about 200 NPR inLukla and by Gorak Shep doubled to 400 NPR. Water bottles start at 50 NPR and end up being200 NPR. I budgeted $35 USD a day, and with room, food, the occasional splurge (rooms withshowers go for $15 USD in Namche) and a generous tip for your porter (if you have one), thatturned out to be just about right. By the time I flew back to Kathmandu I had $10 USD left in mypocket.

MEDICAL KIT Broad spectrum anti­biotic Tiniba (tinidazole)/Flagyl for Gardia (parasitic and bacterial infections) Cippromax for Stomach Re­hydration sachets Imodium (Diarrhea relief) Parocetamol a few plasters and bandages Anti­septic cream Diamox just in case you need to take them to enable you to loose altitude if you start with

AMS symptoms.

ALTITUDE SICKNESS INFO: http://www.traveldoctor.co.uk/altitude.htm

Several changes take place in the body which enable it to cope with decreased oxygen:∙ The depth of respiration increases.∙ The body produces more red blood cells to carry oxygen.∙ Pressure in pulmonary capillaries is increased, "forcing" blood into parts of the lung which

are not normally used when breathing at sea level.∙ The body produces more of a particular enzyme that causes the release of oxygen from

haemoglobin to the body tissues.

The symptoms of Mild AMS include:

∙ Headache∙ Nausea & Dizziness∙ Loss of appetite∙ Fatigue∙ Shortness of breath∙ Disturbed sleep∙ General feeling of malaise

Symptoms tend to be worse at night and when respiratory drive is decreased. Mild AMS does notinterfere with normal activity and symptoms generally subside within two to four days as thebody acclimatises. As long as symptoms are mild, and only a nuisance, ascent can continue ata moderate rate. When hiking, it is essential that you communicate any symptoms of illnessimmediately to others on your trip.

If you go above 3,000 metres (10,000 feet), only increase your altitude by 300 metres(1,000 feet) per day, and for every 900 metres (3,000 feet) of elevation gained, take a restday to acclimatise.

Climb high and sleep low! You can climb more than 300 metres (1,000 feet) in a day aslong as you come back down and sleep at a lower altitude.

If you begin to show symptoms of moderate altitude sickness, don't go higher untilsymptoms decrease.

If symptoms increase, go down, down, down! Keep in mind that different people will acclimatise at different rates. Make sure everyone

in your party is properly acclimatised before going any higher. Stay properly hydrated. Acclimatisation is often accompanied by fluid loss, so you need

to drink lots of fluids to remain properly hydrated (at least four to six litres per day). Urineoutput should be copious and clear to pale yellow.

Take it easy and don't overexert yourself when you first get up to altitude. But, light activityduring the day is better than sleeping because respiration decreases during sleep,exacerbating the symptoms.

Avoid tobacco, alcohol and other depressant drugs including, barbiturates, tranquillisers,sleeping pills and opiates such as dihydrocodeine. These further decrease therespiratory drive during sleep resulting in a worsening of symptoms.

Eat a high calorie diet while at altitude. Remember: Acclimatisation is inhibited by overexertion, dehydration, and alcohol.