ezstacking wine rack
TRANSCRIPT
Project:
Stacking WineRack
There�s no better place to store wine than in a winerack. Not only does it eliminate fumbling around in thedark for the right bottle, but it also holds the bottles atthe correct angle, keeping the cork end low so the cork
remains moist.Up to six rack units can be stacked safely with this
modular design. While the units are held together withdowels, be sure not to drill holes in the bottom unit
bottom edges and top unit top edges.We used a router and template to create the wine glassmotif on the ends, but you may want to choose another
design, or just leave the ends plain.
Stacking Wine Rack Materials List
Part Description Size Number Required
A End 3/4" x 9" x 9-7/8" 2 per rackB Stretcher 3/4" x 2-1/2" x 16-1/4"* 4 per rack
Stacking Wine Rack Schematic
Figure 1. Stretcher Board Circle Layout
Stacking Wine Rack InstructionsStep 1: Cut theStretchers
1. Cut two boards measuring 3/4"x 6-1/2" x 16-1/4" for the four stretchers(B) in each rack. NOTE: You will get two stretchers from each board.
2. Lay out four 3-/12" diameter circles on each board, 3-3/4" on center (seeFigure 1). NOTE: This layout will leave 1/4" between the circles and3/4" on each end.
3. Use a 3-1/2" diameter hole saw or fly cutter in the drill press to cut out thecircles (see Figure 1).
4. Rip the stretcher board to create the two 2-1/2" wide stretcher parts (B).5. Sand the circles with a drum sander mounted to the drill press.
Step 2: Cut the End Parts (A) According to the Specified Dimensions
Step 3: (Optional) Rout the Wine Glass Detail1. Cut (see Figure 2) a piece of plywood 15-7/8" x 15" to make the wine glass
template (see Figure 3).
Figure 2. Cutting the Wine Glass Detail
2. Choose a size guide bushing to cut the wine glass profile. NOTE: Theactual template size (the outside template profile line in Figure 3) willdepend on which size guide bushing you choose, e.g., a 3/4" diam-eter guide bushing with a 1/4" straight bit would mean having toresize the template pattern 1/4" all around.
3. Mark the template plywood with the pattern in Figure 3, being sure to addthree inches to the end part (A) dimensions provided in the completeschematic and being sure to add for the guide bushing size as noted inthe previous step.
4. Cut one piece of 3/4" x 3" x 15-7/8" stock and one piece 3/4" x 3" x 15"stock to make the end part (A) holder (see Figure 2).
5. Glue or screw the two pieces of stock you just cut to the bottom of thewine glass template plywood (see Figure 2).
6. Place the end part (A) in the template/holder fixture (see Figure 2).
7. Clamp the end part (A) tightly inthe template/holder fixture byusing a notched block with slottedscrew holes (see Figure 2).
8. Clamp the complete fixture to theworkbench for routing.
9. Set the router depth to 1/8" plusthe template thickness. NOTE:We found that it�s best to usetwo depth settings with therouter to make the 1/8" deeprelief, with 1/16" being re-moved each time.
10. Make the wine glass relief with therouter (see Figure 2).
11. Nip the end part (A) cornersaccording to the specified mea-surements (see complete sche-matic).
Step 4: Cut the Mortises, Chamfer, and Dowel Holes1. Create the stretcher (B) tenons by applying a 1/8" chamfer all around on
each stretcher (see complete schematic--tenons will each measure 1/2" x 1/2" x 2-1/4").
2. Cut the mortises in the end parts (A) to accept the stretcher (B) tenons (seecomplete schematic).
3. (Optional) Drill the 3/8" x 1/2" holes to accept the short lengths of dowelthat key the racks together if you plan on making more than one rack (seecomplete schematic). NOTE: Be sure NOT to drill holes in the bottomunit bottom edges and top unit top edges.
Figure 3. Wine Glass Template
Step 5: Sand, Assemble, and Finish1. Sand all parts.2. Test assemble parts.3. Make adjustments as necessary.4. Sand again if necessary.5. Glue parts and assemble.6. (Optional) Use a fine brush and acrylic paint to color the wine glass relief.
Allow to dry.7. Apply a coat of spray lacquer to the finished rack(s) to complete the project.
These plans were originally published in Volume 11, Issue 6 of The Woodworker�sJournal (Nov./Dec. 1987, pages 57-59).