FabricsFabrics

TypesTypes

ControlControl QualityQuality

CleaningCleaning

FabricFabric DefinitionDefinition

Fabric or cloth is a flexible artificial material that is Fabric or cloth is a flexible artificial material that is

made by a network of natural or artificial fibers.made by a network of natural or artificial fibers. Example: The example is thread or yarn which is Example: The example is thread or yarn which is

formed by weaving or knitting as in textiles. Cloth is formed by weaving or knitting as in textiles. Cloth is mostly used in the manufacturing of clothing and mostly used in the manufacturing of clothing and

household furnishings etc.household furnishings etc.

A small fabric shop

Common fabricsCommon fabrics Cotton, is the most famous fabric and most widely used fiber in the world because of its Cotton, is the most famous fabric and most widely used fiber in the world because of its

versatility and ability to provide good comfort, particularly in apparel items . Cotton is soft, versatility and ability to provide good comfort, particularly in apparel items . Cotton is soft, natural, vegetable fiber obtained from the seed-pod of the cotton plant. The use of cotton is natural, vegetable fiber obtained from the seed-pod of the cotton plant. The use of cotton is diverse for example it is used in apparel, home furnishings, towels, rugs, and sewing thread etc.diverse for example it is used in apparel, home furnishings, towels, rugs, and sewing thread etc.

Polyester, it is a type of fabric which is a synthetic, man-made fiber produced. Some of it\'s Polyester, it is a type of fabric which is a synthetic, man-made fiber produced. Some of it\'s features are crease resistance, ability to dry quickly, shape retention in garments, high strength, features are crease resistance, ability to dry quickly, shape retention in garments, high strength, abrasion resistance, and minimum care requirement. It is very important fiber in upholstery abrasion resistance, and minimum care requirement. It is very important fiber in upholstery fabrics, which is often used in warps due to its strength and inexpensiveness.fabrics, which is often used in warps due to its strength and inexpensiveness.

Silk is a natural filament fiber produced by the silkworm in cocoon. Silk is mostly collected from Silk is a natural filament fiber produced by the silkworm in cocoon. Silk is mostly collected from cultivated worms, it is a thicker, shorter fiber produced by worms in their natural habitat. cultivated worms, it is a thicker, shorter fiber produced by worms in their natural habitat. Primarily found in Asia there are several types of silk like tussah silk and wild silk etc.Primarily found in Asia there are several types of silk like tussah silk and wild silk etc.

Acrylic, it is a synthetic fiber. It has a soft, wool-like hand, and is generally able to be dyed in a Acrylic, it is a synthetic fiber. It has a soft, wool-like hand, and is generally able to be dyed in a wide range of brilliant colors. Excellent sunlight resistance and wrinkle resistance is it\'s great wide range of brilliant colors. Excellent sunlight resistance and wrinkle resistance is it\'s great feature.feature.

Velvet which is another type of popular fabric is basically a warp pile cloth in which rows of short Velvet which is another type of popular fabric is basically a warp pile cloth in which rows of short cut pile stand so close together as to form an even, uniform surface. Velvet is appealing in look cut pile stand so close together as to form an even, uniform surface. Velvet is appealing in look and with soft. Different fibers including silk is used in making of velvet.and with soft. Different fibers including silk is used in making of velvet.

Damask is mainly made in china and it is firm, glossy jacquard-patterned fabric. It is a reversible Damask is mainly made in china and it is firm, glossy jacquard-patterned fabric. It is a reversible fabric characterized by a combination of satin and sateen weaves. You can distinguish it from fabric characterized by a combination of satin and sateen weaves. You can distinguish it from the ground by it's contrasting luster.the ground by it's contrasting luster.

Cotton is a soft, fluffy, staple fibre that comes from cotton plants

Cotton plantRaw cotton

Microscopic view of cotton fiber

Different layers in cotton fiber

• Silk fiber produced as a cocoon covering by the silkworm, and valuable for its use in fine fabrics and textiles.

Tussah silk Mulberry silk

Microscopic view of silk fiber Silk fiber

• Nylon is a generic designation for a family of synthetic polymers known generically as polyamides.

How to control fabric pillingHow to control fabric pilling Pilling happens because of rubbing or abrasion of the fabric during normal Pilling happens because of rubbing or abrasion of the fabric during normal

wear and use. You'll find pilling most often on man-made fibers particularly wear and use. You'll find pilling most often on man-made fibers particularly polyester and polyester blends.polyester and polyester blends.

Pilling occurs during wearing or washing when groups of short or broken Pilling occurs during wearing or washing when groups of short or broken fibers on the surface of the fabric become tangled together in a tiny ball - a fibers on the surface of the fabric become tangled together in a tiny ball - a pill.pill.

Prevent PillingPrevent Pilling Before laundering, turn the garment inside out.Before laundering, turn the garment inside out. Use the gentle cycle which has a slower agitation and shorter wash cycle.Use the gentle cycle which has a slower agitation and shorter wash cycle. Use liquid detergent or allow powdered detergent to dissolve completely before Use liquid detergent or allow powdered detergent to dissolve completely before

adding garments.adding garments. Line dry woven fabrics. Dry knitted garments on a flat surface. If using the dryer, Line dry woven fabrics. Dry knitted garments on a flat surface. If using the dryer,

remove as soon as possible to lessen abrasion from other fabrics.remove as soon as possible to lessen abrasion from other fabrics.

Remove PillingRemove Pilling One of the most effective ways to remove pills is to use a fabric comb or a One of the most effective ways to remove pills is to use a fabric comb or a

battery operated pill remover that shaves the pills from the surface of the battery operated pill remover that shaves the pills from the surface of the garment. You can also pull the fabric taut over a curved surface and carefully cut garment. You can also pull the fabric taut over a curved surface and carefully cut off the pill with scissors or shave the fabric surface with a safety razor. You must off the pill with scissors or shave the fabric surface with a safety razor. You must be extremely careful and weigh the value of the garment before tackling the job!be extremely careful and weigh the value of the garment before tackling the job!

How to control fabric shrinkageHow to control fabric shrinkage ShrinkageShrinkage is the process in which a fabric becomes smaller than its original  is the process in which a fabric becomes smaller than its original

size, usually through the process of laundry.size, usually through the process of laundry.

CausesCauses For wool garments, shrinkage is due to scales on the fibers which heat, For wool garments, shrinkage is due to scales on the fibers which heat,

water and agitation cause to stick together. water and agitation cause to stick together. Other fabrics are stretched by mechanical forces during production, and Other fabrics are stretched by mechanical forces during production, and

can shrink slightly when heated (though to a lesser degree than wool). can shrink slightly when heated (though to a lesser degree than wool). Some clothes are "pre-shrunk" to avoid this problem.Some clothes are "pre-shrunk" to avoid this problem.

Pre-ShrinkingPre-Shrinking Pre-shirking is needed almost on all fabrics because most textile Pre-shirking is needed almost on all fabrics because most textile

materials shrink when washed. However preshrinking can only reduce materials shrink when washed. However preshrinking can only reduce the residual shrinkage to a lower percentage, but cannot completely the residual shrinkage to a lower percentage, but cannot completely eliminate it.eliminate it.

How to control fabric qualityHow to control fabric quality Fabric Quality Inspection:Fabric Quality Inspection:

The quality of a final garment depends on the quality of a fabric when it is received as a roll. Even the The quality of a final garment depends on the quality of a fabric when it is received as a roll. Even the most outstanding manufacturing methods cannot compensate for defective materials. We inspect 10% most outstanding manufacturing methods cannot compensate for defective materials. We inspect 10% of the rolls and evaluate them based on a four-point system. This way, we can avoid fabric related of the rolls and evaluate them based on a four-point system. This way, we can avoid fabric related quality problems before it is put into production.quality problems before it is put into production.

Four- Point System:Four- Point System: Amount to selectAmount to select: : Inspect at least 10% of the total rolls of the shipment.Inspect at least 10% of the total rolls of the shipment. Selection of rollsSelection of rolls: : Select at least one roll of each color. If more than one role must be selected, then Select at least one roll of each color. If more than one role must be selected, then

choose the additional roles in proportion to the total number of roles per color received.choose the additional roles in proportion to the total number of roles per color received. Defect Classification (Four- Point System):Defect Classification (Four- Point System):

Size Defect Penalty .Size Defect Penalty . 3 inches or less3 inches or less 1 Point 1 Point

Over 3 inches, but less than 6Over 3 inches, but less than 6 2 Points 2 PointsOver 6 inches, but less than 9Over 6 inches, but less than 9 3 Points 3 PointsOver 9 inchesOver 9 inches 4 Points 4 Points

The length of the defect is used to determine the penalty point. Only major defects are considered. No The length of the defect is used to determine the penalty point. Only major defects are considered. No penalty points are assigned to minor defects. (A major defect is any defect that would cause a final garment penalty points are assigned to minor defects. (A major defect is any defect that would cause a final garment to be considered a second.)to be considered a second.)

Major DefectsMajor Defects:: Major woven fabric defects include but are not limited to slubs, holes, missing yarns, yarn variation, end Major woven fabric defects include but are not limited to slubs, holes, missing yarns, yarn variation, end

out, soiled yarns, and wrong yarn.out, soiled yarns, and wrong yarn. Major dye or printing defects are out of register, dye spots, machine stop, color out, color smear, or Major dye or printing defects are out of register, dye spots, machine stop, color out, color smear, or

shading.shading. Acceptance Criteria and Calculation:Acceptance Criteria and Calculation:

40 points per 100 yards is the acceptable defect rate40 points per 100 yards is the acceptable defect rate # of Points per 100 yds = # of Points per 100 yds = # of penalty points# of penalty points x 100 x 100 Yds inspectedYds inspected

Fabric CleaningFabric Cleaning VacuumingVacuuming

One of the safest and easiest ways to clean textiles is to vacuum them. The fabric is placed One of the safest and easiest ways to clean textiles is to vacuum them. The fabric is placed on a clean, flat work surface. If the specimen is particularly delicate, or simply as a on a clean, flat work surface. If the specimen is particularly delicate, or simply as a precaution, a fiberglass screen edged with twill tape may be placed over the textile. The precaution, a fiberglass screen edged with twill tape may be placed over the textile. The screen allows dirt and dust to pass through, but prevents individual threads from being screen allows dirt and dust to pass through, but prevents individual threads from being pulled loose or unraveled further by the suction. Using a vacuum attachment and the lowest pulled loose or unraveled further by the suction. Using a vacuum attachment and the lowest power setting, move the suction over the screen until the entire area has been cleaned.power setting, move the suction over the screen until the entire area has been cleaned.

Wet cleaningWet cleaning The most familiar method of washing everyday textiles is to use water and detergent. The The most familiar method of washing everyday textiles is to use water and detergent. The

urge to wash historic textiles can be as automatic as the machines used. Historic textiles urge to wash historic textiles can be as automatic as the machines used. Historic textiles should not be regarded as laundry, however, because wet cleaning can do a great deal of should not be regarded as laundry, however, because wet cleaning can do a great deal of damage to them. Water can cause cotton and linen to shrink, especially when combined with damage to them. Water can cause cotton and linen to shrink, especially when combined with heat. Similarly, wool can shrink or become irreversibly matted, while if dyes in a textile are not heat. Similarly, wool can shrink or become irreversibly matted, while if dyes in a textile are not 'fixed' they can run, damaging adjacent areas.'fixed' they can run, damaging adjacent areas.

Textiles are markedly weaker when wet and therefore much easier to damage or tear. In some Textiles are markedly weaker when wet and therefore much easier to damage or tear. In some cases, light finger pressure when trying to manipulate or handle a wet historic textile is enough cases, light finger pressure when trying to manipulate or handle a wet historic textile is enough to split the fabric. Finally, many textiles shrink and distort as they dry.to split the fabric. Finally, many textiles shrink and distort as they dry.

Vacuuming through a screen. Vacuuming through a screen.

Dry cleaningDry cleaning Dry cleaning is generally only used for oil stains, as it is a very stressful Dry cleaning is generally only used for oil stains, as it is a very stressful

process of the textile. Commercial dry cleaners should never be used, as process of the textile. Commercial dry cleaners should never be used, as the chemicals used in the process are too strong for old fabrics to the chemicals used in the process are too strong for old fabrics to withstand without damage. If dry cleaning is absolutely necessary, withstand without damage. If dry cleaning is absolutely necessary, consult a professional conservator.consult a professional conservator.

Steaming and ironingSteaming and ironing Steaming and ironing textiles should be done with caution, as the heat Steaming and ironing textiles should be done with caution, as the heat

may affect the viability of the fibers. More importantly, the fabric should may affect the viability of the fibers. More importantly, the fabric should always be cleaned before either of these processes is used, since heat always be cleaned before either of these processes is used, since heat may trap dirt and stains in the fibers to such an extent that the stain may trap dirt and stains in the fibers to such an extent that the stain becomes permanent. Always use the lowest setting for either of these becomes permanent. Always use the lowest setting for either of these procedures. If a garment relies on folds to maintain its proper shape procedures. If a garment relies on folds to maintain its proper shape (such as pleats), it may be better to finger-press the folds into place (such as pleats), it may be better to finger-press the folds into place when the garment is damp and allow it to dry that way, rather than when the garment is damp and allow it to dry that way, rather than subject it to the added stress of ironing.subject it to the added stress of ironing.

Fabric CleaningFabric Cleaning

Fabric Thread CountFabric Thread Count Thread countThread count or threads per inch (TPI) is a measure of the  or threads per inch (TPI) is a measure of the

coarseness or fineness of fabric. coarseness or fineness of fabric. It is measured by counting the number of threads contained in It is measured by counting the number of threads contained in

one square inch of fabric or one square centimeter, including one square inch of fabric or one square centimeter, including both the length (warp) and width (weft) threads. both the length (warp) and width (weft) threads.

The thread count is the number of threads counted along two The thread count is the number of threads counted along two sides (up and across) of the square inch, added together. sides (up and across) of the square inch, added together. 

It is used especially in regard to cotton linens such as bed It is used especially in regard to cotton linens such as bed sheets, and has been known to be used in the classification sheets, and has been known to be used in the classification of towels.of towels.

Thread count is often used as a measure of fabric quality, so Thread count is often used as a measure of fabric quality, so that:that: ““Standard" cotton thread counts are around 150Standard" cotton thread counts are around 150 good-quality sheets start at 180 and a count of 200 or higher is good-quality sheets start at 180 and a count of 200 or higher is

considered percale.considered percale. Some, but not all, of the extremely high thread counts (typically Some, but not all, of the extremely high thread counts (typically

over 500) tend to be misleading as they usually count the over 500) tend to be misleading as they usually count the individual threads in "plied" yarns (a yarn that is made by twisting individual threads in "plied" yarns (a yarn that is made by twisting together multiple finer threads). For marketing purposes, a fabric together multiple finer threads). For marketing purposes, a fabric with 250 two-ply yarns in both the vertical and horizontal with 250 two-ply yarns in both the vertical and horizontal direction could have the component threads counted to a 1000 direction could have the component threads counted to a 1000 thread count.thread count.

According to the National Textile Association (NTA), which cites According to the National Textile Association (NTA), which cites the international standards group ASTM, accepted industry the international standards group ASTM, accepted industry practice is to count each thread as one, even threads spun as practice is to count each thread as one, even threads spun as two- or three-ply yarn.two- or three-ply yarn.

Image showing how to Image showing how to determine the number determine the number of twists per inch in a of twists per inch in a piece of yarn piece of yarn

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