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    Faiths and Films:

    Crisis of Thai Buddhism on the Silver Screen1

    Pattana Kitiarsa2

    Introduction

    In the eyes of scholars and social critics, Thai Buddhism has experienced chaos

    and crisis since the 1980s.3Buddhism in contemporary Thailand has become, in Nidhi

    Auesriwongses words, an alienated and unwanted surplus (suan koen) in Thai life

    and society (2003:5). Its institutional and moral foundations have been considerably

    weakened by eroding penetrations of modern consumerism and materialism.

    As critics point out, the crisis of Thai Buddhism has manifested in both its

    establishments and popular perceptions toward its clergies conducts. The Sangha (theBuddhist official organization) has been questioned for its moral legitimacy and

    authority. In his monumental work, Phra Phaisan Wisalo (2003) traces the origin of the

    crisis of Thai Buddhism back to key modernist reformations and changes since the early

    Bangkok era.4 He argues that Thai Buddhism has been facing difficulties and challenges

    from both inside and outside Buddhist institutions. Thai Buddhism has by and large lost

    its moral authority, spiritual leadership, and cultural significance in contemporary

    Thailand, because its leaders and institutions lost their battlegrounds to the aggressive

    and complex forces of modernization and globalization from outside. Moreover, the

    Thai Buddhist Sangha has often been criticized for its corruption-stricken

    1Paper presented in an interdisciplinary conference on Religion in Contemporary MyanmarBurmese

    Buddhism and the Spirit Cult Revisited, organized by the Stanford Center for Buddhist Studies, StanfordUniversity, May 22-23, 2004. An earlier version of this paper was read in the Conference on New

    Southeast Asian Cinemas: Where Big Budget Meets No Budget, organized by Asia Research Institute,National University of Singapore, May 3-4, 2004. The author would like to thank Dr. Khoo Gaik Cheng,

    the conference organizer, for allowing him to use some of the Thai films and other materials from herprivate collection. She also renders him her critical comment and editorial help over the early drafts. I am

    grateful to Thelma Fadgyas for her additional editorial assistance. Any shortcoming or inadequacy

    persisted are my sole responsibility.2The author is a former faculty member at Suranaree University of Technology, Nakhon Ratchasima,Thailand and currently a Postdoctoral Fellow, Asia Research Institute, National University of Singapore,

    The Shaw Foundation Building, Block AS7, Level 4, 5 Arts Link, Singapore 117570. Email:

    [email protected] Keyes (1995); Nidhi Auesriwongse (1999); Phra Phaisan Wisalo (2003); Phra Thepvedhi [P.

    Payutto] (1993); Phra Thammapitaka [P. Payutto] (2002); Sanitsuda Ekachai (2001); Sulak Sivaraksa

    (1995); Suriya Smutkupt et al (1996); Swearer (1995).4Although many scholars emphasize King Mongkuts reform, which gave birth to Thai modernist or

    Protestant Buddhism as the watershed of modern history of Thai religion, I contend that Thai Buddhismsmost severe crisis took place when Ayuthaya fell at the hands of the Burmese army in 1767. Efforts made

    by King Taksin and King Rama I were to create new regimes fashioning after Ayutthaya with Buddhismas an ultimate source of the political legitimation. Wyatt (1994) describes King Rama Is immediate

    responses to the prolonged socioeconomic, political and religious crisis as the subtle revolution.Reynolds (1976:203-220) sees early Bangkok era as the cosmological transition from the old Siamese

    Tribhumi Buddhist cosmography to the new modern one.

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    administration and visionless ill-adaptation.5 After reviewing a series of infamous

    monks sexual scandal and corruption cases, Keyes (1995) asks: Does the Buddhist

    Sangha have a future in modern Thailand?

    Furthermore, public faith in the Buddhist monkhood is in a state of decline. As

    Swearer (1995:159) points out, The traditional religious festivals that once shaped

    community life are gradually losing their meaning. A small percentage of the male

    population is being ordained into the Buddhist monkhood. Sanitsuda Ekachai, a noted

    journalist with a keen interest in Thai Buddhism, observes: Hypnotised by the new

    magic of science, post-war educated Thais have grown up to see Buddhismgiven its

    emphasis on merit-making, heaven and hell, and the magic practiced by many monks

    as simply superstition, suitable for the elderly (2001:7). In his studies of Thai

    popular religiosity in the 1990s, Jackson (1997, 1999a, 1999b) argues that Thai

    Buddhism has been undergoing postmodernization characterized by the emergence of

    boom-time religions of prosperity commercialized Buddhism (phuttha phanit) and

    other phenomena of commercially oriented religiosity.

    In addition, Buddhism as a modern social institution and as spiritual guidance

    and identity marker has apparently been fragmented with competing interpretations and

    practices from various movements and modern agencies. Many studies explore the rise

    of urban Buddhist movements such as Dhammakaya, Santi Asoke, and Suan Moke

    Movement in the past three decades.6 They consider the rise of these reformist Buddhist

    movements as struggles for modern relevance (Suwanna Satha-Anand 1990),

    different paths to make sense of modern socioeconomic changes from Buddhist

    perspectives, and venues to provide the legitimacy for political power for the growing

    urban middle class, especially in the case of Dhammakaya Temple.

    In other words, most scholars, social critics, and public opinion in contemporary

    Thailand are in consensus in their arguments that Thai Buddhism in the 21 st century has

    been serious challenged by what Tanabe and Keyes define as secularization and

    disenchantment (2002:8). Its moral authority has become very problematic and

    questionable. Doubts are placed against its capability to provide assurances and

    resources needed for people to make sense of complex and ever-changing worldly

    5Chote Tasaneeyavej, a veteran Thai journalist, comments on series of sexual scandals involving Thai

    monks in 1990s that Iron is eroded by its own rust. Likewise, the Sangha is eroded by its own memberswho abuse the yellow robe (cited in Sanitsuda Ekachai 2001:47). See also a comment on Thai Buddhism

    in post 1997 economic crisis by Knox (1998).6See Apinya Fuengfusakul (1993:153-183); Heikkila-Horn (1996:93-111); Jackson (1989, 1997);

    Suwanna Satha-Anand (1990:395-408).

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    matters. In order to rescue Buddhism and make it relevant to the present time (som

    samai), Thai Buddhism, they strongly advocate, needs to be reformed and restructured

    from top to bottom (Phra Phaisan Wisalo 2003:246-282).

    In this paper, I will look beyond the mainstream critics and intellectual thoughts

    by re-examining the discourse on Thai Buddhism in crisis from popular film

    perspectives. Is Thai Buddhism really in crisis? What is the crisis all about? The

    scholars and social critics standpoints toward the contemporary state of Thai Buddhism

    will be countered with stories based on a selection of recently-released popular films,

    namely,Fun Bar Karaoke (1997), Mekhong Full Moon Party (2002), and Ong Bak:

    Muay Thai Warrior(2003). These three films are selected based on rather arbitrary

    grounds. I purposefully choose them as case studies of film stories concerning

    contemporary Thai life, organized around an apparent theme of popular religious beliefs

    and practices. The stories told in these films are well-embedded in, and indicative of,

    the ongoing social discourses concerning popular Buddhism and its fate in

    contemporary Thailand.

    Viewing the discourses on Thai Buddhist crisis, set forth by scholars and social

    critics, as rather authoritative, rigid, and monological, I argue that, in this selection of

    popular films, the contemporary state of Thai Buddhism is narrated and interpreted in

    very remarkably different tones. There is virtually no crisis concerning Thai Buddhism

    presented or reflected in the films, but a firm faith in Buddhist teachings and principles

    with some critical concerns of its agencies and performances in the fast lane of Thai

    society.Fun BarKaraoke,Mekhong Full Moon Party, and Ong Baknot only reconfirm

    prominent places of popular religion in Thai life, but also remit a message similar to

    Milan Kunderas stance on the power of novel: If the novel [Buddhism] should really

    disappear, it will do so not because it has exhausted its power but because it exists in a

    world grown alien to it (Kundera 1995:92). Thai Buddhism has been momentarily

    caught up in the world grown alien to it, while its practitioners and followers alike

    have been struggling and succumbing to the crises of modernity, which entails an

    irrevocable rupture with a habitus rooted in an unquestioned cosmology (Tanabe and

    Keyes 2002:7italic original).

    When scholars, critics, and government officials in Thailand criticize that Thai

    Buddhism has been deteriorating, they make their judgments mainly based on

    doctrinally-defined moral Buddhist standpoints. They rely on the authority of written

    texts, especially the Tripitaka and authoritative conventions, while they rarely take into

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    account popular versions of Buddhism. What I learn from these three films is that

    popular tradition is the most dynamic and meaningful part of Thai religious life. In the

    films, especially inFun Bar Karaoke andMekhong Full Moon Party, complexity and

    diversity of religious beliefs and practices are repeatedly acknowledged. They are part

    of an ordinary culture (Williams [1958]1997:3-14) of the practice of everyday life.

    Religion is neither about the sacred nor the profane, but an ordinary juncture of both,

    where people are free to talk, tease, discuss, blame, or even commodify it.

    Voices concerning the current health and situation of Thai Buddhism are far

    more multidimensional, lively, engaged, and open to debates in the stories told in the

    popular films. Toward the end, I suggest that popular religion can find films as

    alternative sites of discursive practices to discuss what matters most for ordinary people

    in contemporary Thailand. Film renders itself as a dialectical medium of representing

    social realities and as a venue to reflect popular voices on certain issues. Films as

    Dissanayake (1992:3) points out, are cultural practices in which the artistic,

    entertainment, industrial, technological, economic, and political dimensions are

    inextricably linked (Ibid:1). In the words of a Thai veteran filmmaker, Prince Chatri

    Chalerm Yugala (1993), My film is a reflection of what exists.

    Filming Thai Popular Religion

    In an interview, Prince Chatri Chalerm Yugala, arguably the best-known

    filmmaker in contemporary Thailand, believes that the Buddhist concept of karma is the

    most crucial point to understand the lives of struggling people, e.g., prostitutes, the

    gunmen, HIV patients, taxi drivers, elephant keepers, whom he has filmed over three

    decades. You see what happened to them is their own karma, what happened to them

    in their last life. And now, if they make merit, in their next life it will be better (cited in

    Richardson 1993).

    This veteran filmmakers view indicates that, at least, there are some subtle

    connections between religious content and films in Thailand. Although he himself has

    never produced a film based on explicit Buddhist or other religious stories, grains of

    religious beliefs and practices have been actively portrayed in his films. Thai audiences

    are familiar with key Buddhist principles and concepts like karma, law of action, or the

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    moral authority of Dhamma (Buddhist teachings), in his long list of films in the past

    three decades.7

    What Prince Chatri Chalerm tells us is that the marriage between religion and

    film is not a rare phenomenon in Thailand, even though it has never been obviously

    acknowledged. In popular perception, film and Buddhism are seemingly unrelated

    subjects. Their existences are defined by a totally different purpose. They belong to two

    separate domains: secular and religious. Thai movies are intended primarily for

    entertainment. Every detail has to be easy to understand. The story is driven by

    conversations or a characters thoughts--often expressing their innermost feelings, ideas

    and secrets, observes Anchalee Chaiworaporn (1997), a leading Thai film critic.

    However, film as an entertainment media has its grip of power. Its power to tell stories

    on the silver screen in a very convincing manner and to reorient people to believe in its

    make-believe reality is almost irresistible.

    Thailand has witnessed the power of this Western-invented entertainment

    technology as early as when film came into an existence in the late nineteenth century.

    According to Dome Sukvong (n.d.), a pioneer film archivist who has been playing an

    active role in founding and running the National Film Archive, film was introduced to

    Thailand soon after it was invented in the West in the late nineteenth century. The first

    film shown in Siam was about a play called Parisan Cinematograph in 1897, which

    the audience was limited to wealthy aristocrats and businessmen. In its early days, film

    was known in the Thai language as phaphayon, rupphayon or hunphayon, which

    were sets of terminologies indicating make-believe entities or things enlivened by

    certain magical formulas. Of these three terms, phaphayon has emerged in both

    official and popular usages, while nang, which derives from traditional Siamese

    shadow play, has been adopted widely as the most common colloquial term for cinema,

    film, and movie. Since early twentieth century, Siamese, especially those living in

    Bangkok, have been familiar with Western cinema (nang farang) or Japanese film

    (nang yipun), which were shown both in popular permanent theaters and open-door

    makeshift theaters. In his painstaking search to locate the film concerning King

    Chulalongkorn during his European tour in late 1890s, Dome reveals that perhaps King

    Chulalongkorn was the first Siamese to use the term nang farang, referring to the

    7See the list of the films by Prince Chatri Chalerm Yugala at the website:http://www.thaipro.com/cgi-

    in/jump.pl?url=http://people.cornell.edu/pages/ter3/thaifilm/tfindex.html

    http://www.thaipro.com/cgi-bin/jump.pl?url=http://people.cornell.edu/pages/ter3/thaifilm/tfindex.htmlhttp://www.thaipro.com/cgi-bin/jump.pl?url=http://people.cornell.edu/pages/ter3/thaifilm/tfindex.htmlhttp://www.thaipro.com/cgi-bin/jump.pl?url=http://people.cornell.edu/pages/ter3/thaifilm/tfindex.htmlhttp://www.thaipro.com/cgi-bin/jump.pl?url=http://people.cornell.edu/pages/ter3/thaifilm/tfindex.html
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    Westerners shadow play, in his letter to Her Majesty the Queen in 1897 (see Dome

    Sukvong 1993).

    Several studies8trace the history of Thai film through its rise and fall over a

    period of century.9Writing a history of Thai film by using Wallersteinian political

    economy framework, Boonrak Boonyaketmala (1992:62-98) argues that the rise and fall

    of Thai film can be divided into three periods with some distinctive political features.

    From 1897 to 1945, film was a core part of European influences as Thailand was their

    informal empire. From 1945 to 1976, film once gain was under foreign influences,

    especially USA, since Thailand became the US collaborator state. The final period from

    1976 to 1992, Thai film fell into a miserable state under the Hollywood domination as

    the country had entered the so-called the era of new industrial state. The life and death

    of Thai cinema have been closely linked with the modern world system. In his view,

    Thai film industry is nothing, but part of international politics of trade and

    cultural/ideological control. Films in fact have a role to play whether the country was

    under whatever ideological or socioeconomic regimes, such as European colonialism,

    communism, or capitalism.

    Hamilton (1994:141-161), on the other hand, takes a closer look on the role of

    the Thai state in the film industry. She suggests that the Thai power elites concepts of

    the role of film derive directly from an attempt to assert and maintain a curious

    repressive-modernist control over the political/social consciousness of a society plunged

    headlong into a postmodernist global economy (Hamilton 1994:142). Instead of

    discussing a large modern world system as Boonrak does, she points out three social

    segments which compose the deep structure underlying the conflicts of the Thai film

    industry, especially during the 1980s and early 1990s: namely, the conservative power

    elite, the Western-oriented bourgeoisie, and rural/provincial people. The struggles

    among these segments are actually the struggles to represent Thailand in the film

    industry.10

    8See Amporn Jirattikorn (2003); Anchalee Chaiworaporn (n.d.; 2002); Boonrak Boonyaketmala (1992:62-

    98); Dome Sukwong (n.d.; 1993); Hamilton (1994); Knee (2000; 2003).9For a comprehensive timeline of the history of Thai film, seehttp://www.thaipro.com/cgi-bin/jump.pl?

    url=http://people.cornell.edu/pages/ter3/thaifilm/tfindex.html10

    There are also other studies which provide informative accounts of Thai films and their illustrative

    features in different periods. Anchalee Chaiworaporn (n.d.; 2002) outlines the birth and growth of Thai

    cinema from its early days in 1897 up to the present. Series of articles both in Thai and Englishlanguages, which are available in the Thai Film Foundation website,l deal with various aspects of Thai

    films, such as the movie houses (rong nang) (Dome Sukvong), Thai films as mirrors of Thai society(1973-1986) (Anchalee Chaiworaporn), the heydays of Thai film industry (1927-1946) (Phanu Ari), Thai

    pornographic films and the post-1973 political freedom (Wimonrat Arunrotesuriya) or Thai films in

    http://www.thaipro.com/cgi-bin/jump.pl?url=http://people.cornell.edu/pages/ter3/thaifilm/tfindex.htmlhttp://www.thaipro.com/cgi-bin/jump.pl?url=http://people.cornell.edu/pages/ter3/thaifilm/tfindex.htmlhttp://www.thaipro.com/cgi-bin/jump.pl?url=http://people.cornell.edu/pages/ter3/thaifilm/tfindex.htmlhttp://www.thaipro.com/cgi-bin/jump.pl?url=http://people.cornell.edu/pages/ter3/thaifilm/tfindex.htmlhttp://www.thaipro.com/cgi-bin/jump.pl?url=http://people.cornell.edu/pages/ter3/thaifilm/tfindex.html
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    Religious issues or religious aspects of Thai life are not among the dominant

    contents in Thai film stories. Religion certainly cannot be classified as a genre in Thai

    films. Sutthakorn Santithawat (n.d.) writes about the overall situations of Thai films in

    the 1980s and 1990s and classifies them into five major genres: drama(nang chewit),

    comedy (nang talok), action (nang bu); horror(nang phi); andpornography(nang po).11

    Religious beliefs and practices, especially popular Buddhism, mightappear in almost all

    of these genres, but they are more often featured in the horror movies, which involve

    rituals concerning spirits, monks, or spirit doctors/exorcists.

    Most religious content and themes in Thai films predominantly belong to

    popular rather than doctrinal Buddhism. Out of these Thai movie genres, there are at

    least four possible ways, where religious content is incorporated into Thai film stories.

    They include (1) stories based on the life history of Buddha; (2) stories about famous

    monks and their prominent sacred biographies; (3) stories of popular spirits/ghosts; and

    (4) stories concerning superstition and supernaturalism. Popular ghost stories,

    famous/legendary magical monks, and some superstitious laymen are among examples

    of religious subjects represented in Thai films. Some recently released films,

    Aungulimala (Ong Kuliman)(2003) and My Story: Luang Pho Khun Paritsuttho

    (2003) could be examples of popular films based on the Buddhist legend of a Brahmin-

    turned-Buddhist monk and a biography of a contemporary famous magical monk from

    Northeastern Thailand. There are also a number of movies released in 1970s and 1980s

    with an emphasis on dramatic love stories of a young man emerging from a boy living

    in a Buddhist temple and a well-to-do woman such asLuang Ta (1980). Finally, there is

    a large number of Thai films on ghost stories and other supernatural power. Superstition

    and magical power are frequently featured in the films likeKraithong(2001),Khun

    Phaen: Legend of the War Lord(2002);Mae Bia (2001);Nang Nak(1999);Pra Apai

    Mani (2001); and Three[Arom Athan Akhat] (2002).12

    1980s and 1990s (Sutthakorn Santithawat). More published works also depict the contemporary state of

    Thai movies, which some authors claim as a new golden age for Thai movies (Cummings n.d.; see also

    Min 2004:56-57). Of many published works on recently-released Thai films and current situations ofThailands film industry, Amporn Jirattikorn (2003), Anchalee Chaiworaporn (2002), and Knee (2000,

    2003) have stood out, discussing cultural and ideological messages and other complex discoursesrepresented in the widely-hailed new waves of Thai films.11In the website Thaiworldview.com http://www.thaiworldview.com/tv/cinema.htm, perhaps the largestcollection of Thai films available on the internet (184 titles), Thai films are classified into 9 genres,

    including, action, comedy, crime, drama, fantasy, history, horror, romance and thriller.12See more examples of Thai films with religious contents, especially horror and fantasy movies in

    http://www.thaiworldview.com/tv/cinema.htm

    http://www.thaiworldview.com/tv/cinema.htmhttp://www.thaiworldview.com/tv/cinema.htmhttp://www.thaiworldview.com/tv/cinema.htmhttp://www.thaiworldview.com/tv/cinema.htmhttp://www.thaiworldview.com/tv/cinema.htm
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    Bangkok Superstition and Its Pre-1997 Economic Crash Insanity13

    Fun Bar Karaoke (1997) does not represent the film stories discussing

    the crisis of Thai Buddhism per se, but it certainly depicts the religiosity of ordinary

    urban dwellers in contemporary Thailand. Pen-ek Ratanaruangs14debut feature film

    could resemble many academic research projects on the sociology of religion in

    cosmopolitan Bangkok settings and urban centers elsewhere. His film addresses a

    question set forth by generations of sociologists and anthropologists of religion: how

    primordial religious forms, e.g., superstition, and rational modernity, could co-exist and

    blend themselves into the extremely chaotic and noisy Bangkok prior to the 1997

    economic crisis. Pen-ek himself sees his film project as a social study of the city of

    Bangkok and its inhabitants with an emphasis on their syncretistic religiosity and

    modern life constraints:

    Physically, Bangkok is like any other cosmopolitan city in the world. It is

    full of tall modern buildings. Streets are full of cars. There is a Seven-Eleven or a

    McDonalds at every corner. Middle-class and upper-class people wear Armani or

    Paul Smith. In other words, it is very westernized. However, people still go to

    fortune tellers every week, asking them what to do with their lives. When we have

    important projects, we give food to monks hoping to turn luck our way. We still

    believe in ghosts and spirits. The intention of this film is to study how these two

    extremes co-exist. When the film was completed, I felt that a study of this topic

    could turn out to become nothing but a satire. (cited in Wenner 1997)

    Whether or not it is a satire as Pen-ek intends,Fun Bar Karaokes storyline

    shows how Thai superstition has persisted in the postmodernizing Bangkok realities

    through the life of a typical middle-class Bangkok family struggling at the downturn of

    the late 1990s bubble economy. Pu, a young lady working with an advertising agency,

    lives with her playboy and karaoke bar-going father. Lately she has been having a

    strange dream (fan ba) about her dead mother, who, in Pus dream, has kept building a

    house model. Despite living in a complex postmodern environment and working in ahighly dynamic business sector, Pu is a traditional Thai girl, a family-oriented dutiful

    daughter, and an old-fashioned superstitious person. The dream keeps coming back to

    13Knee (2003:102-122) provides an extraordinarily insightful reading of the films by Pen-ek Ratanaruang,

    Fun Bar Karaoke (1997), 6ixtynin9 (Ruang Talok 69, 1999), andMon Rak Transistor(Transistor Love

    Story, 2001). Focusing on the gender meanings of the Thai economic crisis, he argues that these threefilms depict the gendered resonances of Thailands turn-of-millennium cultural and economic upheavals,

    while also addressing the place of Thai tradition to these upheavals (Knee 2003:102).14For his biofilmography, Tom Pannet (Pen-ek Ratanaruang) was born in 1962 in Bangkok, Thailand. He

    studied art history and philosophy at the Pratt Institute in New York City. After graduation, he worked asa graphic designer at Designframe Incorporated in New York for 3 years before returning to Thailand. In

    Thailand he worked for an advertising agency until 1993 when he started directing televisioncommercials. In his next life, he would like to be a professional soccer player or a fortune teller.Fun Bar

    Karaoke is his debut feature film (Wenner 1997)

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    haunt her whether she is asleep or awake and she simply can not steer her mind away

    from it. With assistance from Pum, her only friend, who is a daughter to a fortune-teller

    and works as a 7-11 store clerk, Pu decides to seek advice concerning her mysterious

    dream from Pums father. The fortune-teller tells Pu that if the dream continues, her

    father will soon die when the house is finished. His advice makes Pu sick with worry

    about her fathers fate.

    InFun Bar Karaoke, the female gender is connected with dream, mystery,

    superstition and home-nurturing tradition against the backdrop of Bangkok materialism

    and modernism. Women possess complex, paradoxical qualities as a rescuer and a

    mysterious destroyer. The spirit of Pus mother is building a house, which she herself

    had dreamt about when she was alive. Dressed in black with cigarettes, always looking

    sorrowful and lonely, the spirit wishes to spend her life after death with her husband in

    her dream house. It means that in one way or another, Pus father will soon die so that

    he can reunite with his wife in their never-fulfilled real-life romance. Keep advice from

    the fortune-teller seriously, Pu realizes that only her magical tricks can save her fathers

    life from this mysterious tragedy. Through Pus recurring dreams of her mother, the

    film situates Pus mother with tradition, home, and parental responsibility [T]he

    maternal is linked not only with dream, but with ethereal and non-earthly realms more

    broadly, indeed suggesting an alignment between the feminine and things mystical,

    immaterial, and spiritual (Knee 2003:105).

    The male gender, on the other hand, is linked closely with extremely mundane

    activities, which can be considered as seriously de-meritorious from a Thai Buddhist

    perspective. Men like Pus Father, Noi, and his boss enjoy themselves with obtaining or

    exercising their masculine power by making money in the stock market, being hired as a

    gunman, or having pleasure smoking, drinking, or womanizing. Like most nouveau

    riche Thai, who are mostly from a Sino-Thai background and widely addressed assia,15

    Pus father is among the prime examples of Thai de-meritorious persons in boom-time

    Bangkok. He has made easy money from the stock market and real-estate speculation

    during the boom era. After the death of his wife, he returns to his single, playboy days.

    The difference this time is that he has no parental obligation because his daughter has

    already grown up or perhaps he is simply ignores his family responsibilities. With

    unlimited amounts of cash at his disposal, he visits karaoke bars regularly, having fun

    15Further analysis on the emergence of Sino-Thais in contemporary Thailands economy and politics, see

    Ockey (1999) and Pasuk Phongpaichit and Sungsidh Piriyarangsun (1992)

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    drinking, smoking, and fooling around with girls. Singing and performing karaoke

    allows him to gain access to freedom to express his inner voice as a lonely man, while

    releasing him from the prison of his own daily frustration and anxiety. His fate takes a

    dangerous turn when he meets Yok, a chaophos16 mistress through his fun-loving

    friend. Although Pus father possesses expensive and most auspicious Buddha amulets

    as advertised by the amulet dealer, supernatural power fails to save him from the life-

    threatening misfortunes by the chaophos cronies. The law ofkarma shows its obvious

    force against Pus Father. He suffers the consequences of his own fun-loving behaviour

    as well as his neglect of his paternal responsibility at home.

    Why doesnt Noi suffer from his karma as a sadistic gunman and his other

    criminal activities? This is an apparently self-contradict point in the film. One way to

    understand Nois fate is to look at him as a racially mixed person ( luk krueng) and as a

    mentally abnormal young man. He is perhaps a product of a short reunion between

    American soldier and a Thai woman. He works as a gunman for the chaopho.Neither

    superstition, nor flashy Bangkok night life could influence Noi. What fascinates him

    most is saving money he earned from his job and learning English (from tapes) with the

    hope of travelling to the USA. He is a regular customer at the 7-11 Store, where Pu

    hangs out with Pum. Noi has a crush on Pu, but is too shy to ask her out. In Noi, there

    are many otherwise impossible mixtures; a money-conscious crook yet teaching himself

    English, which is considered an asset for modern professions, a sadistic gangster yet

    nave at womanizing. He can easily and cold-bloodedly kill, yet his tough manhood

    hopelessly vanishes whenever he appears before the girl he loves. In the Thai cultural

    context, being born to a foreign father or mother, or raised outside Thailand could be an

    understandable excuse for not being a culturally-conformed Buddhist or traditionalist.

    Nois unusual mercilessness and sadism as a gunman is a personal symptom of a young

    man being abandoned from normal parental guidance or familiar relationship during his

    childhood.

    What doesFun Bar Karaoke contribute to the understanding of the current state

    of Thai Buddhism and urban religiosity? Apparently it has nothing to do with doctrinal

    or established Buddhism. However,Fun Bar Karaoke vividly recaptures real-time

    possibilities of everyday urban religious beliefs and practices among Bangkok dwellers

    16Chaopho, literally godfather, refers to the Thai mafia who could manipulate the states power andexercise his agency in various economic and political domains. His power and influence lie in his

    economic wealth, control, and well-maintained connection with established power structure. Togetherwith nakleng(bandit or strong man), chaopho represents macho types of Thai masculinity in Thai popular

    and political culture (see Ockey 1999:1033-1058).

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    and elsewhere in Thailand when the countrys economy was on the verge of socio-

    economic turmoil. While critics and scholars constantly cry foul on the extreme

    popularity of prosperity cults and the rise of the commercialization of Buddhism

    (Jackson 1999b, 1999b; Pattana Kitiarsa 2002:160-176), this film confronts them with a

    stunning story. It illustrates how superstition works through the portraits of a family and

    a group of people deeply in psychological and spiritual crisis. A young working woman

    follows the fortune-tellers advice concerning her unusual dream. Her father does not

    know how to deal with his lustful urge and material greed amid chaos and turbulence,

    symbolized through the scenes of notorious traffic jam, his heavy drinking and smoking

    while singing karaoke, and lovemaking with hired bar girls. An unusual hit-man who

    has no sense of moral guilt from his paid job to murder other people, devotes himself to

    worshipping money and America. He is ready to do whatever necessary to actualize his

    dream.17

    Superstition has occupied its stronghold in the Thai mentality and penetrates the

    tissues of their daily life, especially through female agency. Dialogue between Pu, Pum,

    and an old lady customer illustrate this point. Pum reads outloud a horoscope column,

    popular in the Thai daily press, to Pu which predicts varieties of personal romance,

    work, health, and luck. When Pum makes fun of her reading, an old lady customer

    overhears this. Disgusted, she does not hesitate to give Pum a warning shot with a

    popular Thai expression that reflects the superstitious roots in Thai popular culture. The

    old lady warns Pum that, you cannot make fun of it. If you do not believe, you cant

    ever offend supernatural beings (mai chuea ya lop lu).

    The masterly, yet playful, treatment of linguistic signs in the Thai-English

    switch of the films title by its director and production team is very notable. Except for a

    fixed meaning of Japanese-invented Karaoke in some degree, the Thai terms Fan

    (dream) and Ba (crazy, mad, or insane) are displaced or doubled by Fun and Bar

    in English. In this act of trans-linguistic double-entendre (Knee 2003:107), the

    original Thai term (Fan Ba, crazy or mysterious dream) is disassembled, transformed,

    and reconstructed into a new set of signified and signifier --Fun and Bar. In its Thai

    version,Fan Ba connotes a far different meaning from Fun and Karaoke Bar in English.

    Pen-eks intention is to play with the free-floating or arbitrary nature of signs to acquire

    trans-linguistic meanings of words.

    17In other words,Fun Bar Karaoke among other things portrays that superstition [is] alive & well in

    Bangkok (Bangkok Post. February 5, 2002).

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    I argue that the most central idea for this movie is Ba (literally, crazy, mad, or

    insane). Although Pen-ek and his production transliterate it into Bar in English, which

    acquires a totally different meaning and connotation, its original Thai word has rendered

    its authoritative voice dictating the whole story. This adjectival term tells us that people

    living in Bangkok and overall Thai society on the verge of the 1997 economic crash

    were caught in the unconscious state of insanity. In one way or another, people are

    mad, frustrated and busy living their surreal life. Spiritual and moral aspects of their life

    were particularly weak. They were mad at making money, hysterical about their

    luxurious lifestyle and anxious and aimless in their fast-paced daily lives. Left without

    any clues as to the direction of their lives with their overheating economy in the final

    stage of melting down, everything seemed out of control. Bangkok traffics were heavily

    jammed and the government had run out of ideas for effective solutions. Underground

    crime and their operators were on the rise, as was corruption in both private and public

    sectors. In short, Bangkok was in the midst of madness and its population, struggling to

    find ways out to release enormous tension and survive the suffocating forces. Using

    dream and karaoke as metaphors, the film shows everybody desperately seeking

    material as well as spiritual solutions to their life constraints. They yearn for assurance

    and sanctuary to help make sense of existence in a very confusing social world.

    Translated into Thai Buddhist terms, life as seen inFun Bar Karaoke is

    swimming in a boundless sea of suffering (thuk, in Thai and dukha, in Pali). People

    suffer as consequences of their own past and present life actions (karma). With certain

    insane dreams in an unusually extreme socioeconomic environment, people lose their

    vision and destiny and hopelessly get stuck in their immediate worldly life guided by

    lust, greed, and resentment. They are prisoners of their own insane dreams (fan ba). The

    scene which leads Pus father back to Yok for the last time and his eventual beat up by

    the chaopho and his cronies, fittingly exemplifies the cycle of suffering endured by

    people living in the pre-1997 crash Bangkok. Spiritually, he was too weak to resist his

    lustful urge and the powerful seduction of the karaoke bar. The moment he pulls up his

    car at the bars parking lot and enters the bar through the rainfall is the moment when

    his fate is decided. The cycle of suffering and karma has made a complete self-orbit. He

    could have regretted his decision for the rest of his whole life.

    Thai Buddhism and Its Defenders

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    Ong Bak(2003) is essentially an ultra nationalistic film, telling a story of both

    authentic and imagined Thai masculine national identities or Thainess and their

    internationally-acclaimed defender in the name of anciently genuineMuay Thai (Thai

    boxing). Prachya Pinkaews18 intention to glorifyMuay Thai and some other authentic

    Thai martial arts (i.e., traditional fencing) is the central theme in this film.19

    In Ong Bak, Prachya intends to dialogue with his audience on at least two

    counts. First, to the international martial arts world,Muay Thai is second to none when

    it is treasured and practised up to its maximum capability and perfection. It is far

    superior to most, if not all, of much advertised martial arts disciplines in the

    international market. And second, he reminds his Thai audiences and, simultaneously,

    shows their international counterparts,Muay Thai as Thailands true national heritage,

    which has been culturally woven into delicate tissues of the countrys national tri-

    pillars: nation, religion (read Buddhism), and monarchy.Muay Thai, especially during

    its old glorious days, is not just a male pastime; its true existence is to protect the pillars

    of Thainess against intruding enemies (see Pattana Kitiarsa 2003; Vail 1998:75-95). In

    this case, the film chooses to depict howMuay Thai has become a bodily lethal weapon

    to defend Buddhism, as it is symbolized in a famous Buddha statue from Ban Nong

    Pradu, a fictitious rural village located somewhere in Northeastern Thailand. The film

    also glorifies aspects of supposedly harmonious continuities of local traditions and

    village Buddhist institution.

    The film storybegins when the head of a revered Buddha statue, called Ong

    Bak, was beheaded and stolen by urbanite thieves from the worship hall of Ban Nong

    Pradus temple. Bunting or Ting, a skillfulMuay Thaipractitioner and son of this poor

    village, volunteers to bring back the villages most valuable asset. He eventually uses

    hisMuay Thai skills to win Georges support to his endeavors to recover the Buddha

    statues head. He also relies on his physical and mental strength, plus never-say-no

    18For a brief bio-data, which is provided for the International Film Festival, Rotterdam 2004, Prachya

    Pinkaew studied architecture and in the early 1990s started making music videos. As a director andproducer he is widely known as a master in translating Hollywood formulas to the local Thai variety. His

    film credits includeRong Ta Lab Plab/The New Shoes (1993),Kerd Eek Tee Tong Mee Ther/RomanticBlues (1994), Ong-bak: Muay Thai Warrior(2003) (see,

    http://www.filmfestivalrotterdam.com/en/person/85547.html).19

    An international film reviewer notes that Ong Bakis propaganda for Muay Thai, a style

    recognizable to anyone who has ever watched Thai kickboxing. Elbows, knees, shins and forearms all

    come into play in fights that value flexibility as much as ferocity. In the films central set piece, Boontinguses Muay Thai to defeat a wide variety of foreign devilsincluding a brutal western solider, a wild-

    legged Japanese gangster and an insane Australianto get the information he needs to find the manresponsible for selling Thailands religious treasures to the highest bidder (Whitney 2003).

    http://www.filmfestivalrotterdam.com/en/person/85547.htmlhttp://www.filmfestivalrotterdam.com/en/person/85547.html
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    fighting spirit to fight the city crooks and finally is able to overcome them all. The head

    ofOng Bakis returned to its headless body at Ban Nong Pradus temple hall. Once

    again the villagers are able to celebrate their annual festival with their religious faith and

    pride in their village Buddhist symbols intact. Their glorious son/boxer has emerged as

    a rescuer not only to their village Buddhism, but also a guardian hero to Thailands

    national identities and pride in their imagined communities (Anderson 1991).

    The film polarizes the countryside and the cosmopolitan Bangkok. Tings

    adventurous journey and attention-gettingMuay Thai fights serve as moving mediators

    between these two markedly different and contrasting worlds. Ban Nong Pradu

    represents an extremely and ideally traditional community. It is the place where its

    members have possessed unshakeable faith in their Buddhist institution and moral

    leadership. Tradition in the form of Buddhist ceremonies and festivals is their cultural

    foundation. Although villagers have endured their lives in poverty and hardship, the

    sense of unity and togetherness in their community appears to be strong. In such

    environments, popular Buddhist-based ancientMuay Thai knowledge and skills have

    been taught and nurtured. In other words, the movie intends to display Ban Nong Pradu

    as an ideal Buddhist land, where devout villagers and their traditional ways of life are

    posed as authentically fixed images of Thainess. This impoverished land has provided

    Thailand and the world not only migrant labor forces (see Mills 1999), but also physical

    and spiritual guardians in the form of Thai boxer-heroes to ward off both external and

    internal threats to the existence of Thai national identities (see Pattana Kitiarsa 2003).

    Some external threats can be seen in foreign tourists and martial arts practitioners, while

    internal bad omens are represented by existing social ills, e.g., underground gangster,

    drug, gambling, prostitution, and corruption.

    Bangkok is the complete opposite to the idyllic Ban Nong Pradu. It is the

    cosmopolitan city and center of Thai modern universe. However, Bangkok as displayed

    in this film is not the capital city of angels as indicated in its Thai name, but of devils

    and crooks. It resembles a typical troubling cosmopolitan city, which could be found in

    any third world country. The famous tourist center of Khao San Road is indeed the

    center of criminal and illegal activities, ranging from human cockfight, gambling, drugs,

    prostitution, and antique treasure smuggling.

    In moral and spiritual senses, Ban Nong Pradu and Bangkok symbolize two

    contrasting idealized extremes in the Thai cosmology, namely, traditional heaven and

    modern hell, respectively. Daily lives of Thai people in the post-1997 economic crash

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    have commuted and transported back and forth, in and out, between these two realms.

    The human world exists temporarily as a liminally dynamic state somewhere between

    these two symbolic realms.

    Despite its surreal portrayal of two extreme worlds and its simple action movie

    plot, I argue that Ong Bakepitomizes Muay Thai as bodily weapon and as masculine

    cultural heritage to transcend and transform both too-obviously idealized, constructed

    spaces. In the case of Ting,Muay Thai has carried him through his otherwise impossible

    mission.Muay Thai helps erase all cultural capital deficits he certainly possesses as an

    unsophisticated young man from the countryside trying to survive in the harsh world of

    devils. It elevates him from an ordinary country folk to a prominent status of imagined

    national hero in the eyes of his village folks, foreign tourist audiences, and of course,

    his real-life patriots and international viewers. It also helps him attain his glory and

    heroic role as a defender of Buddhist faith and pride of being Thais. Tony Jas role in

    Ong Bakin turn opens up the possibilities of affirming and enhancing the dominant

    discourse of masculine heroism in contemporary Thailand.

    Buddhism has been threatened in both material and spiritual fronts. Materially,

    smuggling and trading of valuable ancient Buddha statues and other religious treasures

    as depicted in this film is part of current crimes in Thailand. 20 Morally, such an act

    reflects the state of mind and faith in Buddhism by the parties involved, who regard

    Buddha statues and other treasures as profitable commodities. Buddhism and other

    markers of Thainess, therefore, need to be rescued from greed and lust of complex

    forces in contemporary Thailand.

    The movie leads us to believe that Thailand needs a hero, especially an ideal

    masculine, morally and communally-oriented heroism to save its national identities.

    Ting and his extraordinaryMuay Thai talents provide some possible examples of how

    the Thai could fight back and stand firm against the merciless attacks of the globalizing

    forces. Ting has risked his life to bring back the most invaluable asset to his village. He

    also commits himself to the Buddhist ideal for Thai men by temporarily serving the

    monkhood toward the end of the story. The story of Ting and his village folks has a

    happy ending episode, however, increasing globalizing social problems, like gambling,

    drug, prostitution, and underground crime which have been eroding Thai Buddhist-

    20For example, in February 2004, the police arrested a gang of thieves with their connection to Bangkok

    amulet dealers, who stole ancient Buddha statues and treasures in many temples in Doi Saket, Hod, MaeRim, San Sai, and Saraphi Districts Chiang Mai Province (Lang Bang Gang Chok Phra [Cleansing a

    Robbery Gang Stealing Buddha Statues].Khom Chad Luek. February 25, 2004.).

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    based cultural values, still remain unresolved and continue to beg for further effective

    solutions.

    Multiple Voices and Contesting Terrains of Popular Buddhism

    Mekhong Full Moon Party [Sip-ha Kham Duean Sip-et] effectively transforms

    the mysteriousBung Fai Phaya Nak [Naga Fireballs] into multidimensional and

    intertextual fields of discourses on a traditional Thai-Laos belief. The film story is based

    on the real-life mysterious Naga Fireballs, which has taken place for generations in the

    Mekhong stream running through Phonphisai District, Nong Khai Province,

    Northeastern Thailand. Lai (2003) points out that this movie is highly regarded for its

    joyous dialogue with ones own folk traditions and accessible representation of Thai-

    Laotian mythologies to the international audiences. The film is like a rich ethnographic

    document, laying out a broad spectrum of beliefs, argumentation, modes of praxis and

    managerial operations around the issue of whether the fireballsare indeed the work of

    serpent-god. 21

    Miracle, natural, or manmade, this is exactly the starting point of the film. Jira

    Malikul22 and his production team demonstrate the complexities and diversities of

    beliefs and perspectives people have when they come to view the Naga Fireballs.

    Looking beyond the oversimplified polarization concerning the event (a work of nature

    or a hoax), Jira personally sees the Naga Fireballs Phenomenon, as it is called by the

    locals, as an event of contesting discourses. In his post-production interview, he

    comments that thousands of people from all over the country get together along the

    river bank on the full moon night of the End of Buddhist Lent interacting and discussing

    their own beliefs and ideas regarding a common subject. Everyone has his or her own

    version of the Naga Fireballs. This makes the event so special. It reflects the religious

    21An English-language Thai media describes the event that the naga fireballs are an annual occurrence,in which reddish pink balls of lightusually in their thousandsshoot skywards out of the Mekhong

    River. It usually occurs every year on the full moon night of the 11th lunar month (Reallife Fireballs a

    Damp Squib as Rains Come Down. The Nation 2002). In October 2002, when the movie was firstreleased just days prior the real-life Naga Fireballs as part of their smart marketing strategies, the Nation

    reports more than 200,000 people flocked to the usually peaceful town of Phonphisai to witness the event.Obviously, there are a lot more than last year, and that might be due to the movie hype, said Boonthan

    Netmuk, a resident of Nam Pe Village, one of the most popular spots for viewing the fireballs. Its allcuriosity whether its a miracle or manmade. They want to see it with their own eyes (Ibid.).22For his bio-filmography, Since graduating from the Faculty of Communication Arts at ChulalongkornUniversity, Jira Malikul has cultivated his reputation as a leading director for music videos and televisioncommercials. He has won critical acclaim for both. He became interested in being a film director when hisHub Ho Hin Bangkok Company, a leading production house of TV commercials in Thailand, had an

    interest in joining the mainstream movie market. He took this opportunity to develop a personal project afeature film about a mysterious natural phenomenon takes place annually on the bank of the MekhongRiver in Nong Khai province (Pattara Danutra 2002).

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    and overall characters of Thai people, who believe that diverse views and faiths can

    coexist with a certain degree of tolerance. (Mekhong Full Moon Party 2002).

    In this film, multilayers and multivoices are carefully crafted, interwoven, and

    placed behind the storyline. For years, a group of local monks, let by Luang Pho (abbot)

    Lo, has established their secret base on the Laos side of the Mekhong to manufacture

    the fireballs and set them up annually on the auspicious day at the end of Buddhist Lent.

    Rather than being seen as a hoax or a criminal act by most authoritative and modern

    rational minds, Luang Pho and his fellow monks firmly believe that their invention of

    Naga Fireball tradition is nothing but an integral part of their sacred duties as local

    Buddhist monks and devout worshippers of the cult of the Naga King, the creator of the

    Mekhong and local domains in age-old mythology. They certainly do not view

    themselves as myth-makers. Luang Pho repeatedly insists that making the Naga

    Fireballs to worship Lord Buddha is meritorious. It is Buddhist monks duties to nurture

    and sustain Lord Buddhas religion by planting seeds of Buddhist faith in the publics

    mind.

    Luang Phos faith and secret behind the Naga Fireballs is tested by Khan, a

    young local orphan whom Luang Pho had raised and personally trained to become a

    diving expert in placing the Naga Fireballs down in the riverbed. Khan recently returned

    from school in Bangkok. Influenced by his modern education and urban experience,

    Khan rejects his previously-held myth and faith in the Naga King, taught to him and

    inspired by Luang Pho since childhood. Luang Pho is shocked and in despair upon

    encountering Khans aggressive rationalization, but decides to keep alive this local

    tradition as well as his personal faith in the Naga King, the sacred savior of Buddhism

    in the Tripitaka story.

    The traditional and modern worlds come into conflict in the opposing positions

    adopted by old Luang Pho and young Khan. Possibly regarded as a generational conflict

    and clash over their own primordial attachments (Geertz 1966), these opposing

    positions are further complicated by the arrival of other authoritative modernist and

    rationalist agents.

    Dr. Norati represents the educated who subscribe to the scientific worldview.

    For people like him, science is the ultimate sanctuary and watershed to whatever

    humans want to know. Upholding science over local religious tradition, he argues that

    the mystery concerning Naga Fireballs is not a religious miracle, but can be uncovered

    with his scientific method. He sets up his experiment to collect data concerning the

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    geographical and topographical configurations of the Mekhong and its seasonally varied

    currents. He holds a firm hypothesis that the Naga Fireballs are part of natural

    phenomena particularly specific to this area. He explains that a fireball appears when

    submerged methane is sucked from the riverbed by a sporadically freakish lunar

    gravitational pull, and ignites when it hits the air (Quenby 2002). In the film, Dr.

    Noratis life and personal faith in science are radically tested and transformed by

    episodes evolving around the politics of truth behind the Naga Fireballs. In a public

    presentation of his research findings, he is made speechless by a question from one of

    his local audiences. Doctor, can I ask if you still adhere to the Buddhist faith?

    His dialogue with Luang Pho is central and epitomizes the tension between

    Eastern and Western worldviews toward truths about nature and the world. Dr. Norati

    tells Luang Pho that human beings desire to unlock the secrets of nature in order to

    understand them, explain them, and live with them in harmony. He shares with Luang

    Pho a common knowledge that the West emphasizes on conquering material and

    physical domains with its science and technology, while the East is the master of

    spiritual and ethical spheres. In return, Luang Pho gives him some punch lines of

    practical philosophy, for example, we humans have never had an exactly equal length

    of one second in each of our heart or commit yourself to what you believe in and keep

    up your faith in what you have committed yourself to. The latter motto is perhaps

    taken from a popular whisky commercial, which reads, Keep walking.

    The existence of the Naga Fireballs draws more challenge from another

    rationalist mind. Dr. Suraphon from Khon Kaen University takes an empiricist stance in

    his endeavors to prove the Naga Fireballs a hoax. He assumes that the Naga Fireballs

    are neither miracle nor natural occurrence, but human invention. While Dr. Norati wins

    some local support and his findings imply that clean and healthy environments of the

    Mekhong are major factors in guaranteeing the sustainable occurrence of Naga

    Fireballs, Dr. Suraphons version is apparently corrupt and opportunistic. He was hired

    by an owner of tomato sauce factory from the neighboring Tha Bo District to create

    some Naga Fireballs in his area as a proof that industrial wastes from his factory do not

    pollute Mekhong River. Dr. Suraphon finally learned his lesson from his arrogant and

    egoistic experimentation when one of his divers was killed mysteriously in the riverbed.

    Perhaps, the nature is telling us something, said Dr. Suraphon after the tragic end of

    his scientific experiment. He finally withdrew himself from his aggressive challenge to

    nature, but not to the local community of faithful members to the cult of Naga King.

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    Local voices have made their own presence through the roles of the school

    master (Khru Yai), who decides to stand up against both Dr. Norati and Dr. Suraphon,

    who, in his view, have been hurtingPhaya Nak (tham rai phaya nak). His mission

    was to defend the right to existence of Naga Fireballs as the towns traditional domains.

    To him, people from outside his town, especially arrogant scientists, have no right to

    destroy or uproot local beliefs and traditions for the sake of science. Although he

    himself has been teaching mathematics and sciences to school children for years, he

    puts his local tradition first. Local dignity, integrity, and continuity must prevail against

    what he calls scientific aggression and intrusion of the global forces at any causes.

    He decides to humiliate them by damaging Dr. Noratis equipments with some pig

    dung. He once exclaims to release his frustration before Teacher Alice that Damn it!

    How come globalization (lokaphiwat) has reached Nong Khai so soon? When he was

    arrested by the police for his criminal act against Dr. Norati, he sarcastically blasts the

    police officer, who once was his student, that Nowadays, scientists are exercising their

    authority to establish themselves as new Gods for human beings. Khru Yai voices out

    that no one really cares about what would actually happen to local people, their ways of

    life, and their once peaceful town. Local people do not care for the business of scientific

    truths. Their life and their religious tradition are more delicate and complicate than just

    dying to know the secrets behind Naga Fireballs. They are definitely not a guinea pig

    for scientists or opportunists. Local people are entitled to the right to defend their own

    cultural domain.

    While most attention is paid to male-dominated truth seekers or defenders,

    female characters like Teacher Alice and Aunty Ong tell their sides of the story too.

    Here, once again, the film shows that religious belief and faith are traditionally fostered

    by women. Teacher Alice represents thousands of ordinary women who emerge and live

    as mediators between the traditional and modern worlds or who situate themselves on

    both sides of the dispute. She supports her men, meanwhile making sure that traditional

    gender cultures continue to be relevant to their ever-changing community. She adapts

    well to her multiple roles as daughter of the abbot in control of the Naga Fireballs

    secrets, as a school teacher, an elder sister to the young Khan, and a fiance to Dr.

    Norati.

    Aunty Ongs wit, charm, and total devotion to the worship of Naga Fireballs

    somehow stand firm as satirically contrasting evidence to the male-dominated scientific

    or political truth-seeking or-defending enterprises. She is an old lady with a bag full of

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    local wisdom and how-to practical tricks to solve almost every aspect of daily

    problems. Her keen eyes are trained on every small detail around her domestic domain.

    She has inherited her practical knowledge from her parents, relatives, and neighbors,

    plus her years of direct experience. When it comes to a religious tradition like the case

    of the Naga Fireballs, faith and respect matter most. Her character stands as proof that

    local villagers too have carried out something equivalent to scientific experiments for

    ages. The difference is that local folk knowledge especially that possessed and practiced

    by ordinary women, is usually overlooked or gone unnoticed.

    Conclusion: Crisis of Buddhism in the Popular Perspectives

    Towards the end ofMekhong Full Moon Party, Luang Phos voice not only

    confirms that making the Naga Fireballs is meritorious as it has been part of a local

    religious homage to Lord Buddha, but also asserts that the Naga Fireballs indeed should

    be perceived as a metaphor of human life. In his own words, the Naga Fireballs

    symbolize the fireballs of human life (bung faihaeng chewit manut). The fireball

    shoots itself up from the bottom of the river, flashes its reddish light skyward for a

    moment, then disintegrates and disappears over the dark sky of the Mekhong. Nothing

    in life is permanent. This is actually the moment of truth for everyone. Luang Pho

    reminds his audiences that human life does not last long. Dont waste it, live it, and

    live it mindfully and righteously well.

    Luang Phos interpretation of this mysterious Naga Fireballs lends itself as a

    common ground to rethink and recapture the crisis of Buddhism in contemporary

    Thailand as it is presented inFun Bar Karaoke, Ong Bak, and Mekhong Full Moon

    Party. Reading through these three films, I argue that the films offers far complicated

    and engaged visions to evaluate the current situations of Thai Buddhism. There are

    problems concerning the Buddhist clergy and their organizations as well as social

    problems affecting Thai Buddhism, but those problems have hardly been presented as

    crisis or serious threats to the existence of Thai Buddhism in these storylines.

    These popular films do not deal with the questions: Is Thai Buddhism facing

    crisis? or what causes the crisis? or what possible solutions are? Rather, they ask:

    what does it mean to be a Buddhist [Thai] in a religiously pluralistic world? (Tanabe

    and Keyes 2002:8). Thais have indeed continued to be religious at heart regardless of

    the higher degree of modernization, their society has been experiencing lately. Religion,

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    whether they are doctrinal or popular Buddhism or supernaturalism, has been a

    pervasive and guiding force for the Thais for generations.

    InFun Bar Karaoke, Pu is an apparent example of how age-old superstition is

    made meaningful to the people living in Bangkok in pre-1997 burst of the countrys

    bubble economy. She consults the fortune-teller concerning her mysterious dream and

    strictly follows his instructions. She visits the Chinese-spirit shrine and gives some

    offerings to the spirits. She hard-boils 51 eggs and offers them to propitiate the spirits in

    her superstitious campaigns to save her fathers life. She should be regarded as an active

    nurturer of traditional religiosity in modern-day Bangkok, who weighs a balancing act

    between a masculine modern development and a feminine, traditional continuity.

    In Ong Bak, popular or village Buddhism prominently dominates the storyline.

    Tings extraordinarily masculine prowess inMuay Thai and his die-hard spirit to bring

    back the head of the Buddha statue indeed speaks for his village folks collective faith

    and devotion. Buddhism has strong roots in their community. It is urban crooks and

    sinful influences from people in Bangkok that threaten to disrupt the existence and

    continuity of their religious roots.

    InMekong Full Moon Party, faith in local Buddhist beliefs and practices is still

    firm despite some powerful challenges from influential scientists and other authoritative

    agents. It demonstrates that when it comes to religious matters in contemporary

    Thailand, being doubtful and searching for alternative visions of truth is possible, but

    ultimately religion as a living or performing tradition is concerned more with keeping

    faith and making sense of ones personal or communal life situations.

    Jira Malikul, the director ofMekhong Full Moon Party, emphasizes that his film

    portrays the tolerant and open-minded characters of the Thai when they enter debates

    concerning religious beliefs and practices.23Indeed, all these three movies have shown

    some similar points. A certain degree of ethnocultural and religious tolerance and

    diversity could be found everywhere in this country. I argue that popular perception

    tends to impose a greater degree of dynamic tolerance and coexistence than the stance

    adopted by state officials, scholars and critics. BothFun Bar Karaoke andMekhong

    Full MoonParty apparently encourage the real-life inclusive syncretism (Swearer

    1995) of diverse religious faiths. They also imply that local traditions should be

    23In an interview with Pattara Danutra (2002), he emphasizes on the realistic quality ofMekhong Full

    Moon Party. Said Jira, as this movie deals with the issue of belief, I want the audiences to believe inthe films realistic components too. This is the major reason why he casts unknown actors and actresses

    and features mainly Isan (Thai-Lao) dialect in this film.

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    preserved and that people have full authority to determine their pasts and futures. In

    Ong Bak,popular Buddhism is even considered a true watershed of Thai wisdom and

    resource to counter the foreign and devil intruding otherness.

    Instead of discussing the crisis of Buddhism, these three movies address more

    complex issues concerning the crisis of modernity. They openly criticize global forces

    and their negative impacts on local traditions in the era of post-1997 economic crash. In

    the meantime, they also display the assertion of local voices and negotiations of

    meaning regarding visions of their own religiosity. They tell stories of Thai modernity

    and its destructive agents, whether they are the karaoke bar, gambler, drug dealer,

    prostitute, foreign tourist, urbanite crook, or morally insensitive scientist, showing them

    as complex forces pushing Thailand away from its spiritual and moral strength and

    foundation. By placing popular Buddhism in juxtaposition to the challenges from agents

    of evil, these movies confirm that popular Buddhism is alive and well. It is perceived as

    a foundational source of morality and spirituality for its adherents and the future of

    contemporary Thai society.

    It is not very surprising that these three movies repeatedly and heavily condemn

    the wrong side of Bangkok as the center of immoral otherness to Thailands national

    identity. Looking back at the center from the periphery, Bangkok is an unbelievably

    strange and troubling place in both spiritual and material senses in Fun Bar Karaoke. It

    is the capital of crooks and underground businesses in Ong Bak. InMekhong Full Moon

    Party, it is the city of modern civilization which has transformed the young Khan from

    a traditional religious boy into an aggressive rational minded young man, who has

    developed a strong faith in modern life and technologies (i.e., mobile telephone, mass

    media, science, and cosmopolitan lifestyle).

    Putting these three films together and exploring them for some religious

    resonances, I contend that the most productive way to understand the Thai crisis of

    modernity with an emphasis on current popular situation in Thailand is to elude the

    temptation to read them through the lenses of various sets of dichotomies which are

    constantly presented in the film stories. Scenes of confrontation and contestation

    between the global/local, Thai/foreign, traditional/modern, spiritual/material,

    female/male are repeatedly shown. However, I would agree with Knee (2003:107) in his

    reading ofFun Bar Karaoke that the it does not pass some absolute judgment against

    the modern in favor of tradition. Rather, the film suggests a coexistence and

    interpenetration of the two realms, although the latter would appear to be ascendant at

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    the expense of the former and Pus movement towards greater maturity and emotional

    equilibrium appears to involve her coming to understand the balance between these

    polarities. Learning to negotiate and appreciate ones cultural roots through balancing

    moves between sets of real-life dichotomies is also experienced by Ting (Ong Bak) and

    Khan (Mekhong Full MoonParty).

    Voices from young people like Pu, Ting, and Khan demonstrate that the realities

    of the crisis of Buddhism in contemporary Thailand are far from one-sided and

    authoritarian. This is because popular voices from ordinary people and communities

    stage their claims for spaces where they can enter into multidimensional and open-

    minded discourses with the multiple parties involved.

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    Filmography

    Angulimala[Ong Kuliman]. 2003. Suthep Tannirat, dir. (Details incomplete).

    Fun Bar Karaoke. [1997]2001. Pen-ek Ratanaruang, dir. 120 min. Bangkok: Solar

    Marketing. [VDO-CD].

    Khun Phaen: Legend of the War Lord. 2002. (Details incomplete).

    Kraithong. 2001. (Details incomplete).

    Luang Ta (The Abbot]. 1980. Permphon Choeiarun, dir.

    Mae Bia. 2001. (Details incomplete).

    Mekhong Full Moon Party[Sip-ha Kham Duean Sip-et]. [2002]2003. Jira Malikul, dir.

    120 min. Bangkok: Mangpong. [DVD].

    Mon Rak Transistor[Transistor Love Story]. 2001. Pen-ek Ratanaruang, dir. Bangkok:

    Solar Marketing. [VDO-CD].

    Nang Nak. 1999. Nonzee Nimibutr, dir. 120 min. Bangkok: Mangpong. [VDO-CD].

    Ong Bak: Muay Thai Warrior. 2003. Prachya Pinkaew, dir. 105 min. Bangkok:

    Mangpong. [DVD].

    Ruang Khong Ku: Luang Pho Khun Parisuttho [My Sotry: Luang Pho Khun

    Parisuttho]. 2003.95 min. Bangkok: United Home Entertainment. [VDO-CD].

    6ixtynin9[Ruang Talok 69]. 1999. Pen-ek Ratanaruang, dir. Bangkok: Solar Marketing.

    [VDO-CD].

    Three[Arom, Athan, Akhat]. 2002. Nonzee Nimibutr, dir. 120 min. Bangkok:

    Mangpong. [VDO-CD].