famous new orleans drinks and how to mix them

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PRICE.. so BY MAIL".60.. ,

, .,,'. , ,1 .?HARMANSON'S Publications

AUDUBON . . .. ,

I'

An Intimate'Life'of The,American Woodsman . . .by STANLEY CLISBY ARTHUR "Author of Old New Orleans, The Birds of Louisiana, TheStorv ofThe Battle of New Orleans, Old Families of Louisiana, Story,of The West Florida Rebellion, The Fur Animals o/'LoufSi-!ana, Etc., Etc. , .. ". " ,At Last ! . , The book all bird lovers have been waitingfor!For the first time the "real" Audubon has beenplaced between the covers of a bookThe finest 'and greatest biography of the talented, .genius who made "The Birds of America" live, "again on his drawing papers. The uncensored.story of a bird man by a bird man.Over 75 Illustrations. In two formats. Limited and signed $10.00.Regular edition, blue and gold cloth $5.00.

.', ' " .~"---0---OLD NEW ORLEANS

by STANLEY CLISBY ARTHURAuthor of Audubon, An Intimate Life of The American Woods-man, Etc.The first authentic history of the Crescent City'sfamed French Quarter, its ancient and historicalCreole buildings. Written for those who want

to wander along the narrow streets of New Or-leans' famous "Vieux Carre"-who want toknow something authentic about these pricelessrelics of a romantic past.Profusely illustrated by pictures that successfullycapture the spirit of quaint streets-the beautyof old courtyards-the delicate traceries of oldiron lace on old balconies.Bound in attractive red cloth $2.50.Anniversary edition, artcraft binding $5.00.---'0---HARMANSON, Pub lisher and Bookseller

333 Royal Street New Orleans, Louisiana


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Famous New Orleans Drinks.And How to Mix'em

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CHRISTENING FONT OF THE COCKTAILThe old-fashioned double-end egg-cup which served thefirst brandy-cocktails in old New Orleans, A Coquetierto the Creoles but a "cocktail" to the Americans.


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Copyright 1937 bySTANLEY CL ISBY ARTHUR

All rights reserved ... no part of this book mcy~a reprinted In any form without permission Inwritillg from the copyright owner.

Firs! Prirtti11g November 29, 1937SecQ~ld Prillting December 8, 1987'1'hitd Printing August 15, 1938

Printed in the United States of America by theROG ERS PRINT ING COMPANY

New Orleans, Louisiana


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CONTENTS

APERIT.IF _ _. __ ... ... ... __ . 7THE B1R1'I1 OF THE COCKTAIL . _ _.. __.__ 9WHISKEY DRINKS __ _. ...._._. .... . ._ 15JOLlOPS _ ._. ._ __ ._ .. __ ... .. .... _. 27.,AnslNTHE DRINKS .... __ ... _ ... _. .__ .__ 34GIN DRINKS . . ._ _. 4 2RUM Darsrxs _. .._ .-.-- . 59Pousss CAFES ._. ._ ___. __.'__._. 69BRANDY DRINKS _._. . ._. ._ 7 2CI\P{L Bn,()Lot .___.__. . . ,. .__74TODDIES, SLINGS, AND FLlPs_. __ _.__ .__ 7 8FL1PS _. .. . . ... _._. 7 9 '

.SUNGS ._ ..__ . ___---------------. 80SWIZZLE ------------.-- __ ..__ . . ._._. '8 2HUNCHES .. . . . _._ 84


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WASSAIL BOWL ._ ........ _ __ ..... ...... _ ._ 88ti:GGNOGS _ ._ ... _ ............ _ __ ..... _ 89WI'UTE RIBBON PUNCH .._. .._ .._. __ ._ .... 92TAT. CONtllADICTION __ __ __ . .. __ .. _ 94INDEX _ _ .. c . . . _ . . . . . . . . . _ _ . _ . . . . . _ . . . . . . . . . . . ' _ " " " ' _ _ ' , " ' _ 95

, ' :..:;:W' / t ' ~ "f f F . ' . "- f t t ) i -I I '


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AperitifHail New Orleans that for more than a century hasbeen the home of civilized drinking. From the time ofits settlemen t by the French, through the dominationof the Spanish, and occupation by the Americans afterthe L ouisiana Purchase, the flow ing bow l and the adeptmixing of what went in it has constituted as high anart in this C reole city as the incomparab le cooking forwhich it is famed.T he quality of m ixed drinks as served in New Or-leans has always appealed to the sophisticated taste, butthe drinks and their histories are forever linked w ith thepast ofthis pleasure-loving city out of which has comeso much that is b eautiful and gay , and so much that is

worth' preserving.It was here that your pious C reole lady guilelesslyb rewed muscadine w ine and b lackberry cordial and peachbrandy chocked with authority . I t was here that yourgentlemen of the old school, more or less pleasantlycorned in season and out, made a cult of preparing a

drink and a ritual of downing it. I t was here that yourmost modern of American beverages, the cocktail, firstcame into being and was given its jaunty name.W ith a desire to acquaint the wotld-or that part ofthe world that may be interested-w ith the art of m ixinga drink as it is done in New Orleans, the author of thisbook has cajoled from . old and new experts the recipes

handed down through succeeding generations and pre-sents them herein for your delectation w ith a sm ile and a"Sante!"


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E ig.h t '

Why We Clink Glasses(A Toast [or Toasters)

When friends with oth er friends contriveTo make th eir glasses clink,T h en not one sense of all th e fiveIs absent from a drink.For touch and taste and smell and sigh tE uoloo in pleasant round,And wh en th e flow i/2g cup u1titeWe th rill to sense of sound.Folly to look on wine? Oh , fieOn wh at teetotallers th ink . . .T h erc're always five good reasons wh yGood fellow s li!(c to drink.

E.B.A.


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The Birth of the CocktailThe most popular alcoholic beverage in the world to-day is that high-powered mixture known as the Cocktail.For a century and beyond this stimulating drink hasserved to elevate dejected spirits. Born, nurtured, andchristened on this side of the Atlantic, 'it has overflowed

its original boundaries, especially since the World War,and today even staid British taste, long wedded to his-toric brandy and soda, is beginning to find satisfaction-and something else-in the Yankee mixed drink.Why is a cocktail called a cocktail? Why should therear adornment of a chanticleer be identified with so

robust a libation?The origin of the cocktail and its singular naminghave long been veiled in mystery. One legend sets forththat the French-speaking people of Old New Orleanshad a word for a favorite drink, and that word event-ually was corrupted into "cocktail." Other and morefanciful legends have found circulation from time totime but here are the facts concerning the birth of thecocktail and how it received its inapposite name.In the year 1793, at the time of the uprising of the

blacks on' the portion of the island of San Domingo thenbelonging to France, wealthy white plantation ownerswere forced to flee that favored spot in the sun-lit Carib-bean. With them went their precious belongings andheirlooms. Some of the expelled Dominguois whoflocked to what was then Spanish Louisiana broughtgo1d to New Orleans. Others brought slaves along withtheir household goods. Some brought nothing but theclothes they wore upon their backs. One refugee sue-

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ceeded in salvaging, among other scanty possessions, arecipe for the compounding of a liquid tonk, calledbitters, a recipe that had been a secret fam ily formulafor years. .T his particular young C reole refugee was of a distin-guished French fam ily and had been educated as anapothecary . H is name was Antoine Amedee Peychaud,In the turmoil of the insurrection and the hurried exodusfrom San Dom ingo, Amedee and his young sister, L ast-hen ie, became separated. It was not until y ears laterwhen he had estab lished himselfin New Orleans, thatthe sister was located in Paris and Peychaud had herjoin him in his new horne where sub sequently she mar-ried into the well-known M aurin fam ily .A . A . Peychaud's b id for fame and popularity in thecity of his adoption was founded not so much upon thequality or profusion of the drugs he dispensed over thecounter of his shop (located in a building still standingat 437 Royal street) as upon his b itters, a tonic andstomachic compounded according to his secret familyformula. T hese b itters, good for what ailed one irre-spective of malady , gave an added zest to the potions ofcognac b ran J y he served friends and others who cameinto his pharmacy -especially those in need of a little

brandy, as well as bitters, fo r their stom ach's sake.T he fame of Peychaud 's highly flavored dram ofb randy spread rapidly . C onsequently the b itters founda ready m arket in the numerous coffee houses (as liquidd isp en sin g e stab lishmen ts were then called) that stoodcheek by j O J V l in almost every street in old New Or-leans. C ognac had long been a popular drink among

th e city's experienced bibbers, but presently custom ersbegan demanding their French b randy spiked w ith aTen


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dash or so of the marvelous b itters compounded by M .Peychaud,In his own place of business Peychaud had a uniqueway of serving his spiced drink of b randy . He pouredportions into what we now call an "egg-cup't=the old-fashioned doub le-end egg-clIp. T his particular piece ofrockcry , known to the French-speaking population as

a coquetier (pronounced ko-k-tay ), was, in all proba-bility, forerunner of the present jigger-the name giventhe doub le-end metal contraption holding a jigger (112ounces) in the b ig end, and a pony (1 ounce) in thelittle end, which we now use to measure portions form ixed drinks.It is not surprising that those whose French pronuncia-tion ~.as imperfect were SOon calling the spiced drinkthey . quaffed from the b ig end of the crockery cup a"cock-ray ." Possib ly rhrough sampling too many of M .Peychaud's spiced brandies, the thickened tongues ofthe imbibers slurred the word into "cocktail."Presently all New Orleans was drinking brandy-cock-tails, quite dissim ilar indeed from the usual b randy-tod-dies heretofore served exclusively in most of the coffeehouses of old New Orleans. The bitters made thedifference.In such fashion did Peychaud's original San Domingobitters give an otherw ise simple b randy-toddy new lifeand zest. In such fashion did the inconspicuous littlecrockery coquetier or egg-cup become the christeningfont of the cocktail.M any have been the yarns setting forth the correct

etymology of the word "cocktail." Some of these legends-are picturesque, some old, some modern, many fantas-tic, and most of them far-fetched and meaningless.Eltwets


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"Washington Irving in K1lickerbocker (l809) , page241, said of the cocktail:. 'They (Dutch-Americans) la yclaim to be the first inventors of the recondite beverages,cock-tat 'l , s tone-jencc, and sherry-cobbler. ' Hawthorne re-ferred to cocktails in Th e Blith edale Romance (1852) ,as did Thackeray in his Th e Neiocomes (1854), butneither of these authors shed any light upon the originof the term,

The word was not accepted by lexicographers untilabout th e beginning of the present century, each punditadvancing a different version as to its origin. Dr. FrankH. Vizetelly, noted editor of the Standard Dictionaryand authority on words, writes me;"The cocktail goes back at least to the beginning ofthe 19th century, and may date back to the AmericanRevolution. It is alleged by one writer to have been aco.ncoction prepared by the widow of a Revolutionarysoldier as far back at 1779 . He offers no proof of thestatement, but a publication, Th e Balance, for May 13,1806, describes the cocktail of that period as 'a stimulatingliquor composed of spirits of any kind, sugar, water, andbitters. It is vulgarly called b itter slin g, and is supposed

to be an excellent electioneering potion:

"The New England Dictionary 011 Historical Princi-pies say s that the origin of the word cocktail is lost. Inthis connection one writer refers to the older term cock:tail, meaning a horse whose tail, being docked, sticksup like the tail of a cock. He adds: 'Since drinkersof cocktails believe them to be exhilarating, the recentlypopular song "Horsy, keep your tail up;' may perhapshint at a possible connection between the two senses of"cocktail" .'reVeille


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"Bartlett in his Dictio na ry o f America nism s gives th efollowing: 'Cocktail. A stimulating beverage, made ofbrandy , gin, or other liquor, mixed with bitters, sugarand a very little water. A friend thinks this term wassuggested by the shape which the froth, as a glass ofporter, assumes when it flows over the sides of a tumblerontaining the liquid effervescing.' He quotes the fol-1 wing from th e Nett) York Tribune of May 8 , 1862 : 'Abowie-knife and a foaming cocktail.' In Y orkshire dia-l s et, cock.tail describes beer that is fresh and foaming."Brewer in A Dictionary o f Ph rase and Fable, follow-ing the definition of cocktail, adds the note: 'The originof th e term is unknown: theetory given in the NewY ork World (1891) to the effect that it is an Aztecword, and that "the liquor was discovered by a Toltecnob le.who sent it by the hand of his daughter Xochitl,"to the king who promptly named it "xocrl," whence

"cocktail" is a good specimen of the manufacture ofpopular etymologies.'"As you will see from the foregoing, altho manytheories have been advanced as to the etymolog-y of theterm cocktail, these. like most etymologies of the kind,are mere flights of fancy, and while they make interest-ing reading, cannot be accepted as reliab le."After careful analysis of Doctor V izetelly 's data it ap-pears to be certain that the odd mispronunciation ofcoquetler in New Orleans is the oldest and most positivebasis for the word "cocktail."Mansi. .ur Peychaud, glass in hand we salute you? Aootre sante!An interesting tale bearing upon the use of tho word

cocktail in Old New Orleans is to be found in a bookwritten by a German traveler over a century ago. Theauthor was Henry Didimus, and his book, N~tu OrleansThir&cen


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As I Saw It, tells of f i t s adventures in the Crescent Cityin the w inter of 1835-36 at which time he became ac-quainted w ith the then famed brandy-cocktail.Herr Didirnus writes of wandering about the old townand p f meeting up w ith three worthies ... "one play edth e fiddle, another beat the drum , and the third dealtout nectar in the form of b randy-cocktail," D idimussays he repeated the name, "b randy -cocktail" when sucha drink was suggested, SQ as to gain the attention of thethird worthy who thereupon said: "Ah, I see; not ac-quainted with the mixture," and led the way to a refresh-ment place. When all were seated about a table, thethird worthy yelled: "Boy ; b ring up four glasses ofbrandy-cocktails I"T he b lack. slave vanished and returned with four tumb-lers practically filled, each of D idimus' companionsseized a glass, and eyes shining with anticipation, glasseswere touched, and the drinks were downed.,He r r . D idimus, immensely pleased with what the draftdid to his insides, demanded to be told in what way abnuJdy.cocktail differed from a brandy-toady?' ."T he difference between a b randy -cocktail and a,b randy -toddy is th is," explained the loquacious worthy.~ 'A b randy -to ddy is made by adding together a littlewater, a little sugar, and a great deal of b randy-m ix

well and drink. A brandy-cocktail is composedof thesame ingredients, with the addition of a shade of 'b itte rs-so that the b itters draw the line o f dema rkation. Boy!"he bellowed, "b ring up four b randy-toddies-eyou shalltaste the difference, sir!"

Rourleen


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"w hiskJ.e ,rhaU p r 4 e our brains in rage." 1715Whiskey Drinks

Whiskey is a potent drink and whiskey is a potentword-perhaps because both are of Irish extraction. TheEnglish pronunciation of the word in use today is basedupon a word the ancient Gaels applied to the product oftheir stills, for it appears they were the original whiskey-makers.The name they gave the distilled spirit was singularlyJitting-- they called it t.(,isgebeatha. 1 We dissect theword we find that uisg (pronounced oosh ' gee) means"water") beatba means "life," and the two combined mean"water of life,' All of which goes to prove you can'tbeatthe Irish for apt naming. In time this potent pro-duct of Ould Ireland's stills became "whiskbae," later"w hiskie," and finally just plain "whiskey."The Scots likewise were d istille rs 0 this ancient andhonorable liquid. They adopted the original name theIrish gave to the white spirit which flowed from theirstills, the word going through a similar sequence of pro-nunciation until it became "whisky" without the e ~ notespelling on aIJY bottle of Scotch.We have much for which to thank the Irish, but whis-key rates a top .place on the list. A toast to the Irish!And what drink may better serve such purpose than oneof the man.y whiskey cocktails mixed to perfection asin New Orleans? Make it an, Old Fashioned, a Sazerac,a Manhattan, a julep, a highball, or just plain whiskey.Whichever it may be, fill 'em 'up and drink 'em down

to the original whiskey-makers-the Irish!"Whiskee-Po! , Give m a G lass of th at Rhenish!" 1753

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1 jigger rye whiskey,or,Bourb on w hiskey ,Scotch whisky,Irish whiskey ,co gnac b randy ,aPl?lejack,gin,rum,

fizz waterice

Highballs

The dictionary lowdown 01) highball; "a lqng drinkof diluted spirits, usually whiskey , served in a tall glassw ith cracked ice."Like all popular drinks, th e. h ighball is conspicuous

for its' variety . Any spirituous liquor will answer-itd epend,S upon individual preference. Some like ry e withseltzer water, some Bourbon; others hold that the spiritof the drink should be Scots whisky , and still others de-mand Irish whiskey . Brandy ,rum, applejack, all havetheir advocates, and there are even benighted souls whocrave gin in their highballs.As they used to say out West: "Name your own poison,gents!"For the fizz accompaniment use whichever of theseappeals to vou=-eeltzer, club soda, white rock, ginger ale,coca cola, seven-up,


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The Sazerac CocktailOldtimers will tell you the three outstanding drinks 'of New Orleans in the memory of living men. were' thedripped absinthe frappe of the Old Absinthe House,th e Ramos gin fizz, and the Sazerac cocktail.As' previously related, the American cocktail was notonly born in Old New Orleans but was given its curious

name in the city's famous Vt'eux Carre. There are cock-tails and cocktails but the best known of all New Or-leans cocktails is unquestionably the Sazerac. The factthat it originated in New Orleans gave rise to the legendthat it was first concocted by and named for an old Loui-siana family, legend without fact as no such Louisianafamily ever existed.A barbershop now holds forth in a building on theright hand side of the first block in Royal street going

down from Can41, and before its doors, still remainslettered in the sidewalk the word "SAZERAC." Thisdenotative indicated the entranceway to a once well-patronized bar on the Exchange Alley side of the build-ing. It was here the drink famed far and wide as aSazerac cocktail was mixed and dispensed. It was hereit was christened with the name it now bears.For y;ears one of the favorite brands of cognac imported

Seventeen


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into New Orleans was a b rand manufactured by th efirm of Sazerac.-d~~FQrge et fill, of Limoges, France. Thelocal agent for this firm was John B . Schiller. In 18 59Sch iller o pen ed a liq uid d isp en sary at 13 E xchange A lley ,nam ing it "Sazerac Coffee-house' after the b rand ofcognac served exclusively at his bar.Schiller's b randy cocktails became the drink of theday and his business flourished, surviving even the W arBetween the States. In 1870 T homas H . Handy , his

bookkeeper, succeeded as proprietor and changed thename to "Sazerac House." An alteration in the m ixturealso took place. Peychaud's b itters was still used to addthe right fillip, but American rye whiskey was substi-tuted for the cognac to please the tastes of Americanswho preferred "red likker" to any pale-faced, bral)dy.T hus b randy vanished from the Sazerac cocktail tobe replaced by whiskey (Handy always used M ary landClub r'le, jf you are interested in b rand names), and thedash of absinthe was added. Precisely when whiskeyreplaced b randy and the dash of absinthe added are'moot questions. T he absinthe innovation has beencredited to L eon L amothe who in 1858 was a bartender

for E mile Seignouret, C harles C avaroc & C o., a w ine irn-porting firm located in the old Seignouret mansion stillstanding at 520 Royal street. M ore likely it was about1870, when L amothe was employed at P ina's restaurantin Burgundy street that he experimented with absintheand made the ~azerac what it is today .But this history delving is dry stuff, S C i let's sample a

genuine Sazerac, We will ask L eon Dupont, now vice-president of the St. Regis Restaurant but for years one~f the expert cocktail mixers behind T om Handy 's origi-nal Sazerac bar, to make one for us,Eightcc ' l


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Here's how-and howl1 lump sugar3 drops Peychaud's bitters1 dash Angostura b itters1 ji.gger lye whiskey1 dash absinthe sub stitute1 slice lemon peel

T o m ix a Sazeracrequires two heavy -bottomed, 3Y i-ounce bargllls5es. One is filled with cracked ice and allowed to chill. Inthe other a lump of sugar is p laced w ith just enough water tomoisten it. T he saturated loaf of sugar is then crushed with abarspoon. Add a few drops of Peychaud's b itters, a dash ofAngostura, a jigger of rye whiskey , for while Bourbon may dofora julep it just won 't do for a real Sazerac, T o the glass COI1-taining sugar, b itters, and rye add several lumps of ice and stir.N ever use a shaker! Empty the first g lass of its ice, dash inseveral drops of absinthe, tw irl the glass and shake out theab sinthe ... enough will cling to the glass to give the neededflavor. Strain into this g lass the whiskey m ixture, tw ist a . pieceof lemon peel over it fo r the needed zest of that small drop ofoil thus extracted from the peel, but do not comm it the sacrilegeof dropping the peel Into the drink. Some bartenders' put a . chet.ryin n Sazerac; very pretty but not necessary .M~m-m-mm! Let's have another, Leon I

Kentucky Whiskey Cocktail1 jigger Bourbon whiskey1 jigger unsweetened pineapple juice1 lump sugar

D issolve the sugar in the pineapple juice. Pour in the jigger ofBourbon. T hen some lumps of ice. S tir. Strain in serv ing glass.This cocktail could be made with rye whiskey, but

then you'd not b e privileged to attach the name Ken-tucky to it. Some make the same drink with orangejuice instead of pineapple, and some use sweetened pine-apple juice. If the latter, be wary of the amount ofsugar you use.

Ninetoen


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Old Fashioned Cocktail1 lump sugar2 dashes Peychaud o r Ango stu ra bitters1 jigger 1'ye whiskey1 piece Iemon peel1 chunk pineapple1 slice orange peel2 maraschino cherries

In to a heavy-bottomed barglass drop a lump of sugar, dash onthe b itters, and crush w ith a spoon. Pour ill the jigger of ryewhiskey and stir w ith several lumps of ice. N o shaking 'allowed IL et the m ix ture remain in the glass in which it is pre! ared. G ar-n ish w ith a half-ring of oran re peel, add the chunk of pineapple,and the cherries w ith a little of the maraschino juice. Tw ist theslice of lemon peel over all and serve in .the m ix ing glass w ith thebarspoon,

Old Fashioned? Yea, verily, but as appealing to smarttastes now as on that certain Derby Day a half centuryago when the originator, whoever he may have been,first stirred it into being at the Pend ennis Club, in Louis-ville, Kentucky.The Old Fashioned has been a . New Orleans institu-tion for many years and when other whiskey mixtures,garnished with fancy names, have passed on and beenforgotten, the Old Fashioned will continue to tickle ex-perienced palates. Don't let anyone tell you that gin,rum, or brandy can take the place of whiskey in an OldFashioned. Turn a deaf ear to such heresy. A real Old.Fashioned demands rye Whiskey. Remember; Bourbonwon't do.In the old days before the Great Mistake the OldFashioned contained less fruit than it does today. How-beit, the expert barkeep of pre-prohibition days neverneglected to twist a slice of lemon peel over the glass be-fore serving.

Twt:nty


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B lue B lazer1 lump sugarI jigger Scotch whisky1 jigger hot water

Hove tw o mugs, earthenware or metal, and in one dissolve th elump of sugar in the hot water. Now add the Scots whisky ; besure it's a good b rand w ith plenty of alcoholic content for it hast burn. Ignite the mixture. Hold the burning mug ill onehand, then empty the .fluid rapidly from one container to theother so that a streak of b lue HO lme connects the two. Serve ina hot-drink glass after tw isting a b it of lemon peel over the m ix-ture and topping with a grating of nutmeg.If you have cold feet, chattering teeth, shivers, frozenfingers, or chilblains, in other words, i f you're cold, andwant to warm up the inner man, you can do no betterthan thaw out with a Blue Blazer.This drink was a popular tipple aboard the palatialpaddle-wheeled steamboats that churned the waters ofthe Mississippi during the time the Natchez and theRobert E. Lee made history in upstream races to SaintLouis. The barkeeps were expert in transferring theblue-flamed liquid from one mug to another, accom-plishing the feat with an agility that kept the flamesfrom singeing their walrus-like moustaches. You C


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Manhattan Cocktail1 lump sugar1 dash Peychaud bltters1 dash Angostura bitters! 0 : jiggeJ: rye whiskey% . jigger Italian vermouth1 slice lemon peel

Drop a lump of sugar: in a barglass, moisten with a very littlewater, dash 011 it the two bitters and crush with a bjlfSpOOn,. Adathe rye whiskey (don't use Bourbon) and then the vermouth.Drop several lumps of ice into the ,glass and stir. After straininginto the cocktail glass, twist a bit of lemon peel over the mixtureto extract the atom of oil, drop in a maraschino cherry with avery little of the sirup,There are almost as many recipes for a real M anhattan

cocktail as there are, skyscrapers in L ittle O ld New Y ork,or ways of getting into heaven. T he M anhattan; origi~nated at the old Delmonico Restaurant in New Y orkduring the b ibulous 90 's, was composed of one-thirdItalian vermouth, and two-thirds Bourbon whiskey . Nat-urally, the formula has been improved upon in NewOrleans; you'll note we always improve upon things toeatand drink in this New Orleans. Just an old Southerncustom!The M anhattan as served over the better New Orleansbars has always had that certain something it lacks else-where. Reason; in first-class establishments the m ixol-ogis~ s use ry e for the whiskey and the drink is stlrred-

never shaken. Properly miXed with good .brands ofliquor, the M anhattan is one of the finest drinks thatflourishes under the name of cocktail, and well deservesthe reputation that "it is the most popular cocktail inthe world." . ..T werlEy-two


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"

Dry Manhattan1 lump sugar1 dash Peychaud b itters1 dash Angostura b itters1/3 jigger rye whiskey1/3 jigger Italian verm outh1/3 jigger French vermouth1 slice lem on peel

This is mixed exactly as is the Manhattan . M ust not be shaken-I I . b risk stirring w ith large lumps of ice is the proper procedure.FillC or crushed ice has a tendency to make drinks cloudy andwhiskey cocktails should have a clear amber color. Put a cherryIII the cocktail glass b efore stra ining in th e m ix tu re.There are cocktail quaffers who object to the .sweet-~ \Jl .ss of the Manhattan made in the orthodox manner andp l ' e E c c " a dry Manhattan. The dryer drink is made b yusing a . third of a jigger each of the rye, the Italian, andII French vermouths. When dropping the cherry intorhc cocktail glass do not include any of the sirup. ','Whiskey Cocktail

1 lump sugar6-7 drops Angostura, b itters5-6 drops Peychaud b itters1 teaspoon curaeao1 jigger rye whiskeyU se a heavy-bottomed barglass and drop in a lump of su& ar.Moisten with a little water, add the two b itters, then crush w itha ~pOOIl, Put in the curacao, then the Jigger of rye, and stir w ithsev sral lumps of ice: Strain into the serving glass. F inally tw istn sliver of lemon pee l over the m ixture. T hat adds the tiny dropof oil necessary for the perfect result.

The whiskey cocktail is one of the old-time appetizerdrinks masquerading under a . variety of names in dif-f e r e n t parts of the country. Follow this recipe and youwill agree it's a cocktail deserving its wide popularity.

Twenty-three


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Cocktail a 1 0 Louisiane1/3 jigger rye whiskey1/3 jigger Italian vermouth1/3 jigger Benedictine3-4 dashes absinthe substitute3-4 dashes Pey chaud bitters

M ix ill barglass with lumps of ice. Strain into a cocktail glassin which has been placed a maraschino cherry.This is the special cocktail served at Restaut'atlt de la

Louisiana, one of the famous French restaurants of NewOrleans, long the zendezvous of those who appreciatethe best in Creole cuisine. La Louisiane cocktail is asout-of-the-ordinary as the many distinctive dishes thatgrace its menu.Orange Whiskey Cocktail

1 jigger rye whiskey1 jigger orange juice1 jigger charged water1 dash Peychaud bitters1 lump sugarMix the ingredients illa barglass, pour into a shaker with crushedic e and shake vig-orously. Strain into chilled cocktail glass.Prepare in generous quantities; for your. guests will offer theirglasses for more.While rye is indicated in the recipe you may substituteBourbon i f that is your choice . : . but sidestep Scotchor Irish .. The addition of the carbonated water givesthis one a little more sparkle than if you use plain water.T he same cocktail can be made by substituting Orange

Wine for the orange juice. In some New Orleans homesthe celebrated Louisiana Orange Wine; made in theorange groves below the city, -is used in preference to theplain ora.nge juice. Many experts prefer Bourbon to ryein this particular cocktail.Twcmy-touf


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Place d'Armes Cocktail.yt orange-juice onlyY z lemon~juice only~ lime-juice only1 pony grenadine simp1 jigger whiskey

lqueeze the fruit juices in a mixing glass. Add the sirup; bernreful not to make it too sweet if you like a dry drink . , .(til 'rwise use a little sugar. Then add the whiskey-some preferBourbon, others rye. Rye :is usually better in any mixed drink.l ' i t l 'oin. into a t a n glass half-filled with crushed icc. Decorate witha sprig of mint, alter rappeing well with a spoon.Of course, th is gallant cocktail m ight be called a Jack-son Square as readily as a Place d'Armcs or, i f you. speakSpanish , how about Plaza de Armas? But its originatoralled it a Place d'Armes, and we'll stick to that. It was

80 named in honor of the grassy tree-shaded square front-ing the C athedral and the C ab ildo , where G eneral An-drew Jackson sits astride a rearing battle steed, holdingaloft his chapeau in perpetual politeness. H e would havenjoyed th is co ck ta il I

TtvcTlty-fivc


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Roff ign ac Cock ta il1 jigger whiskey1 pony sirupseltzer or soda waterraspberry sirup

Pour into a highball glass the jigger of whiskey (or use cognac,as in the original drink). Add the sirup, which may be rasp-berry, grenadine, or red Hernbarig, the sweetening used in NewOrleans 3 century ago. Add the soda water, Ice, of course.Joseph Roffignac, b efore he fled his native land of

France at the time of the Revolution, was C ount L ouisPhilippe Joseph de Roffignac, In time he became a lead-ing m erchant in New Orleans, the city of his adoption,and its mayor for eight' y ears. He fought the Britishunder "O ld H ickory" at the Battle of New Orleans,served in the state legislature, and was a banker of note.A s mayor he introduced street lighting, and laid the firstcobblestones in Royal street. For all his many honors,Roffignac's name comes to us through th e y ears linkedwith a favorite tipple of O ld New Orleans-the Roffig.nacoWhile not so celeb rated as A . A . Peychaud 's cocktail,

it was equally potent. T he red Hembarig mentionedin the directions for m ixing was a popular sirup whenold New Orleans was young.

TtlJt:tlty-six


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j ~ , t ' i OnJin(lI'Y Virginian ,;s~s about six o'clock. H~ th~n drinks(j j t l / " p made oj rum, and .sugar but tidY strong:' 1787 .

Juleps' 111 ' word Julep is an old and honored one and canIW fracd as far b ack as A . D . 14 {)()-...}ongb efore we everI H ird of the Southern States of these U nited States, wherej ! l n j u l p i s popularly supposed to be indigenous.[iP[' centuries the ju lep has been described as "some-rhlng to cool Or assuage the heat of passion," and "a

,WtC drink prepared in different ways." W e know noth-~ , h H of the first definition but will confirm the secondI f ucm enr that it can be made in different w ay s.

'1 1h' earliest form of the word was iulep, A rab s calledI jttlab, the Portuguese julcpc, the Italians giulcbbc,'1.II,l'io&named it julapium, Persians, gul.ab, meaning,jl:ose water." The G reeks, alas, did not have a word1 1 1 ' it I Julep, as we spell it, is French. A ll this being~11d let us get on w ith our juleping,,1)ou't use rye whiskey in making a julep. If you do'II~' whiskey let it b e Bourbon, which. serves its high estI rpose when it becomes a component part of thatII lnee of all thirst-quenchers known as the M int Julep.~I'h1'e are many kinds of m int juleps, one for nearlyI 'V r y Southern State-such as Kentucky , G eorgia, V ir-H i r l i a , Maty land, L ouisiana juleps. W e give several ofI'll' most popular recipes .t~'hQ first tllitlg h e did upon getting out of h ed was to call .foru !lIlel' lind 1 date my own love fo r whiskl:Y from mix ing and

itl',.tirJC my YO f4 ngmaste(s juleps." 1804 .Twenty-st . f I .en


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Mint Julep1 teaspoon sugar1 dozen mint leaves1 jigger Bourbon whiskey1 pony rum

Put the mint leaves into a tall glass in which the julep is to b eserved, Add the sugar and crush in a little water. Pour in theBourbon whiskey, then the rum, and fin the glass with shavedice. Jiggle the mixture with a long-handled spoon (do not stir)until the outside of the glass or metal goblet is heavily frosted.Arrange a bouquet of several sprigs of mint on top just beforehanding to the recipient, who will ever after bless you.Naturally, one is aware that he takes his life in hishands by even suggesting the way a real mint julep shouldbe prepared; for there are as many recipes fo r this trulySouthern drink as there are southern states i n . the Union.Julep experts-may their tribe never decrease I-knowthat correct and authentic recipes take on changes in pass-ing from one state to another. Southern colonels, to saynothing of majors, captains, and buck privates; have beenknown to call for pistols under the duelling oaks whenit is even hinted that mint leaves be crushed in prepar~ing a julep. Other colonels, majors, etc., emit fire andbrimstone, and 'a Bourbon-laden breath; i f the pungentleaves are not crushed in the bottom of the glass and a'bouquet of short-to-measure sprigs placed on top inwhich to snuggle the nose while the nectar is beingwithdrawn with a reverent, albeit, audible suckingthrough a straw.There is also a difference of opinion concerning the

variety of spirits that go Into the making. In the recipeabove the pony of rum may be added or subtracted-ita U depends on your drinking mathematics. Rum, how-ever, gives added zest to a regulation whiskey julep.Twenty-eight


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'III) ~ one dung upon which the two mint julep schoolsII . fully agreed is this: it was a julep the two C arolinaHI! 'mors had in mind when making their celeb ratedIIh ervation regarding the length of time between drinks.

Kentucky Mint JulepI lump sugar? sprigs of m int leaves? jiggers Bourbon whiskey.

NI"~ the absence of the amount of Bourbon to be used-that'sflll,portant in a julep, no matter from what state it COmes . AllIIIII!'1 1 6 lacking in the above recipe is the shaved ice which must, 1 1 into the glass or metal gob let in which the ju lep is com -" H ' ' 1 1 I ~ 1 d,While Georgia may be ab le to make good the boast

r h . 1 1 th mint julep originated within her borders, there'PI' 'ors to be no successful refutation of Kentucky's!.rirn that th e Blue Grass State popularized the famousillink, However divided opinion as to whether mintli aves should be crushed or merely dunked, one thingrtairr+no Kentucky gentleman, far less a KentuckyI I tO n , -I, would ever sanction a recipe which placedIhllilations on the amount of Bourbon that goes into th elU,liing.Nor will we here entangle ourselves in the age-longl'fJU'lroversy-shouls.l. a julep be sucked through a straw

I I I drunk from the container? K entuckians vociferouslyIII dntain that th e use of a straw ruins a julep. W e haveI \1 '(1 Kentucky julep with a straw and without=bothv o r l IJO one of his many visits to New Orleans "MarseI I =1 ~y"Watterson , o ne-tim e beloved editor of the- L ouis-

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ville' Courier~lournal, told a young newspaper reporterhis recipe for a real Kentucky m int julep."T ake a silver gob let, son, one that will hold at leasta pint, and dissolve a lump of loaf sugar in it w ith notmore than a tab lespoon of water. T ake one m int leaf,no more, and crush it gently between the thumb andforefinger before dropping it into the dissolved sugar.T hen fill the gob let nearly to the b rim with shavedice. Pour into it all the Bourbon whiskey the gob let will

hold. T ake a few sprigs of m int leaves and use fordecorating the to p of the m ixture, after . i t has been wellfrapped with .a spoon. T hen drink it. Bur," warnedM arse H enry , ,udo not use a straw , son."I know that this was Marse Henry 's version of a realKentucky m int julep, for I was the young-c-and thirsty-n~wspaper reporter.

Georgia Mint Julep11teaspoon powdered Sligar1 pony cognac brandy1 pony peach brandysprigs of tender mint shoots

U se the goblet in which the Julep is to be served. Place some ofthe mint leaves at the bottom, with the sugar and 8. little water,and muddle or bruise the leaves, Add the cognac and peachbrandy. Fill the goblet with finely crushed ice. Jiggle with thelong -handle d barspoon unal wt!lI rapped.' 'Jiggling is not "stirring." Stirring calls for a rotarym otion, but "jiggling" is dashing the spoon up and down

steadily until the outside of the gob let is frosted. Placethe metal or glass container on a tab le to do y our jiggling~o not hold the glass for heat of the hand will hinderfrost from . form ing en the outside, When the julep hasThiny


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" . sn thoroughly jiggled, thrust in a bunch of the tell-1 1 rest m int shoots arranged to simulate a bouquet,This julep is to be absorbed with a straw, a short one

rltJ that the drinker's nose is buried in the very heartof ehe green nosegay as he drinks, thus adding the de-light 0 . aroma. to the delight of taste.

San Dom ingo Ju lep1 piece of loa f sug ar1hjigger rum

sprigs of mint'r n to : \ tall glass (preferably It metilgoblet) drop the sugar andH I . o l s t e n with a little. water. T ake several m i n t le av c$ an d crushwhfl.e the sugar is being muddled w ith the bmpoon. Fill with''IHlved or finely crushed ice. Pour in the rum. JIggle to ftappe~h-mixture. Set a bouquet of mint leaves on top befor;e serving.A ~1iceof orange peelfor garnish is ritzy b ut not strictly necessary .This seems to be the original m int julep that cameto Louisiana away back in .17 93, at the time the whitearistocrats, who were expelled from San Domingo by

Ihe uprising of the blacks, settled in New Orleans. In 'th - U nited States, especially those states south of theMason and. Dixon line, Bourbon whiskey gradually tookI place of sugar cane rum as the spirit of the drink.Many advocate the use of both red whiskey and rumin making a julep, but if you wish to quaff the originalR o n Domingo julep use rum alone. Any of the well-

known imported or domestic b rands will do, such as11:1ar(li, Cabildo, Carioca, Pontalb a, R um rico, C harles.(CUi,DDn Q., Puerto. Rico, Jamaica, St. C roix , Red Heart,l' Pilgrim.


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Brandy Mint Julep1 spoon powdered sugar1 pony Bourbon whiskey1 pony peach brandysprigs of mint leaves

Mix as directed for m e juleps in preceding pages. Use plenty ofcrushed ice and frappe with the long-handled barspoon.It is rank heresy even to mention it, but some Georgia.julep experts make theirs by substituting Bourbon whis-

key for cognac brandy. Whichever you use, Bourbonor brandy, remember that quicker and prettier frostingwill result if you use a silver or other metal goblet ratherthan glass. The outside of the container must be. keptdry if it is to take on a good frost, so do not hold it inyour hand when jiggling.St. Regis Mint Julep

1 teaspoon Stlgar1 teaspoon water1 dozen mint leaves1 jigger rye whiskey~ pony rum1 dash grenadine sirupInto a t.111glass crush the mint leaves with a barspoon. Dissolvethe sugar in water and stir. Pour in the whiskey and rum, thenthe grenadine sirup. Fill the glass with crushed ice and jigglewith the spoon. When properly frapped decorate the top withsprigs of mint,This recipe departs in two ways from the usual ...the use of rye fo r Bourbon and the introduction of grena-dine sirup. In spite of its straying from the neither

straight nor narrow path of Bourbon, this julep is ex-ceedingly good on a hot day, or any day, for that matter.I t is the julep that is served at the St. Regis Restaurantbar and is the pride of head-bartender John Swago,Thirty-two


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LQuisiana Mint Julep1 teaspoon powdered sugar1 Y 2 . jigger Bourbon 'whiskeysprigs of mintcrushed ice1'i! I dozen leaves of m int in a barg lass, cover w ith powdered

I I lg!U' and just enough water to dissolve th e sugar. Crush sug,uIlld mint leaves gently with a muddler or barspoon, Pour halfllu ; t tint and sugar liquid in the bottom of the tall glass ill which' I l 1 ! ' ju lep is to be served. Then enough shaved or snowball ic eill lwlf nIl. Next add the remaining mint and sugar liquid ,I IU IHlrly to the top with shaved ice. Pour in the Bourbon1WIl,lthe glass is fun to the b rim . Place in the refrigerator ath'll,i. au hour before serv ing to acquire ripeness and frost. T op''It'h mint sprigs.'rim e was when the m int ju lep was strictly a symbolr the South-a green and silver emblem of Dixie's

J li'n B y leisure. But today the m int julep, that mostHltlriol.1S of summer drinks, is becoming as popular above' 1 1 1 ' Mason and Dixon line as below it.Horne term th e Louisiana ju lep the last word in per-, I ' cion, so i f you have the feeling you haven't sampled at I II ju t p, try the above. If you are still in doub t andII " willing to go to some troub le, try the one below .N o W ' Orleans M ' in t JulepPut the glasses or the metal gob lets in the refrigerator

III night before you are to serve juleps. This is a high-ptlW .red julep so you'll need two jiggers of Bourbon0 1 " rv ry glass. In the serving glass drop a layer p f

1 1 1 , i n t leaves, 611 one-quarter fu ll w ith shaved or snow-1 ! 1 1 1 t~, then one teaspoon of powdered sugar .. Repeatuntil th glass is half full. Add one jigger of Bourbon.I ~ ! , F I at until the glass is full, the second 'j~O 'ger o f Bour-b ! fI being the 'last to go into the glass. .Serve on a'Il'ny with a straw or tube 'in each goblet so that handi1 5 not touch the 'container, w~ich is frosted white.rAirey-three


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"Thy secret pleasure trltns to open sh am e, thy sugred tongt~e tobitter wormwood ta ste ." S hake spea re !s Lucrece, 1593 .

Absinthe DrinksAccording to some authorities, ab sinthe as a drink

originated in A lgeria, and French soldiers serving inthe Franco-A lgerian w ar (1830A7) in troduced the greenspirits to Paris upon their return from the North A fricancountry where the drink found strong favor along theboulevards. In tim e the spectacle of bearded men anddemi-mondes dripping their ab sinthes became one ofthe sights of Paris. N aturally , so fashionab le a Parisiandrink was not long in finding its way to the L ittle Parisof North America-New Orleans,T he drink, which was spelled absynthc in New Or-

leans liquor advertisements in 1837 , when it was appar-.enrly first imported from France and Switzerland, wasa Iiquor distilled from a large number of variousherb s, roots, seeds, leaves ,' and barks steeped in anise. Italso included Artemisia asbinthium, a herb known as"W ormwood' ab road, but called Hcrbe Sainte by th eFrench-speaking population of L ouisiana. In recent y earswormwood has been condemned as harm ful and hab it-form ing, and laws have been enacted forb idding its usein l iquors in th e United States and other countries. Inaddition to banning wormwood from manufactured- ,liquor, the use of th e word "absinthe" on bottles of- , 'modern conco ction s ,which do not contain wormwood,1 S also banned. A s a , consequence, m anufacturers of ab-sinthe substitutes have been forced to adopt trade' name's .T /u'ny-loIU


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Old Absinthe House all the ancient buildings in New Orleans' famedViuttx Carre, none has been more glorified in story andpi .ture than a square, plastered-b rick building at theorner of Bourbon and Bienville streets, known as "T heO ld Absinthe House."

Hoary legend has long set forth that the building wasr e c e e d in 17 52, 17 7 4 , 17 86, 17 92, but as a matter ( 9 . factII was actually built in 1806 for the importing and com -mission firm of [uncadella & Font, C atalonians from1 rcelona, Spain. In 1820, after Francisco [uncadellaeliad and Pedro Font returned to his native land, theplace continued as a commission house for the barter of:oodstuffs, tobacco, shoes, clothing, as well as liquidsn bulk from Spain, and was conducted by relatives of!he builders. Later it became an epicerie, or groceryshop: fo r several years it was a cordonnerie, or boot andshoe store, and not until 1846 did the ground floor corner1'1)000 become a coffee-house, as saloons were then called.T his initial liquid-refreshment estab lishment was runh Jacinto A lelx , a nephew of Senora [uncadella, andwns known as "A leix's C offee-House." In 1869, Caye -

r rifle Ferrer, a C atalan from Barcelona, who had beenn 1 at-keeper at the French Opera House, transferred hisrnlents to the old Juncadella casa and became principalIlrink~m ixer for the A leix b rothers. In 18 7 4 , C ayetanoh i n l s - 1 f leased the place, calling it the "Absinthe Room"Thirty:tM


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because of the potent dripped absinthe he served in theParisian manner. His drink became so popular that itwon fame not only for Cayetano, but for the balance'of his family as well-papa, mamma, Uncle Leon, andthree sons, Felix, Paul, and Jacinto, who helped to attendthe wants of all and sundry who crowded the place.What the customers came for chiefly was the emeraldliquor into which, tiny drop by tiny drop, fell water fromthe brass faucets of the p a i l " of fountains that decoratedthe long cypress bar. These old fountains, relics of aromantic past, remained in the Casa Juncadc lla for manyyears. Carne prohibition when the doors of "The 011Absinthe House" were padlocked by a United States mar-shal, and the contents of the place went under the ham-mer. Pierre Cazebonne purchased the prized antiques,together with the old bar, and set them up in anotherliquid refreshment parlor a block farther down Bourbonstreet, where signs now inform the tourist that thereinis to be found the original "Old Absinthe Bar" and anti-que fountains, and we find the marble bases pittedfromthe water which fell, drop by drop, from the faucets overthe rnany years they served their glorious mission.In these modern years the tourist yearning for an oldflavor of the Old New Orleans to carry back as a memoryof his visit, goes to 400 Bourbon street, not only to seethe venerable fountains and bar, but to be served absinthefrappe by a son of Cayetano Ferrer, the Spaniard whoestablished "The Old Absinthe House." Jacinto Ferrer(we who know him call him "Josh") should indeedknow how to prepare the drink properly for he has beenat it 65 years. Josh served his apprenticeship in hisfather's celebrated "Absinthe Room" in 1872, and todayat three-score-years-and-ten, carries on With an air theprofession at which he began his apprenticeship as a five-year-o ld boy.T hirlY-six


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Dripped Abs.nthe Fran~aise1 lump sugar1 j igger absinthe substitute1 glass cracked ice

1 ' 1 1 1 1 1 . ' the jigger of absinthe substitute into a bnrgiass filled withI'Ifd d ice. Over it.suspend a lump of sugar in a sp ec ia l. absintheilL s which has a small hole ill th e botto~n (use a strainer if youh .. V .n't the glass) and allow water to drip, drop by drop. slowlynto the. sugar. When the desired color which indicates itsIIr~flgth has been reached and most of the sugar dissolved, stirwith a spoon to frappe. Strain into a seeving glass.'his recipe is for the original dripped absinthe thatmad famous Cayetano Ferrer's "Old Absinthe House"wh n he introduced the Parisian drink to New OrleansIhe drink containing oil of wormwood which instigat-r,l the banishing of the word "Absinthe" from bottle

[lib Is. It is th e same dripped ab sinthe, the "Fairy with.rc .n Eyes," described in Marie Corelli's famous book'Wormwcod,"Today, the absinthe substitutes are free of the harmful

r'. tra t of the herb Artemisia absinthium, and entirely, q fe when imbibed (ip. moderation) at any bar.Absinthe Cocktail

1, jigger absinthe substitute1 teaspoon sugar sirup1 dash anisette2 dashes Peychaud b ittees2 ounces harged water

11Ul a highball. glass a . little more than half full with cracked ori ,ro~hed ice, Pour in th e absinthe substitute, sugar sirup, anisette,{HId b itte rs , then squirt in carbonated or other live water, Jigglev l . t h :1 bars] oon until the mixture is well frapped, Strain into('0 1 tntl. z lasses which have been iced ahead of time.


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Absinthe Frappe1 jigger absinthe substitute1 teaspoon sugar sirup1 jigger charged water

Fill a small highball glass with cracked or shaved ice. Pour inthe sugar sirup, then the absinthe substitute, and drip water(seltzer or other charged Wl\ter will improve it) slowly whilefrappeing with th e spoon. Continue jiggling the barspoon untilthe glass becomes well frosted.T his is the simple and easy way to prepare an absinthedrink, one that has many devotees in many lands. O fcourse, if you have a shiny cocktail shaker and want toput it to work, you can USe it. Shake until' the shakertakes on a good coating of frost, and then pour the mix-ture in to glasses which have been well iced before the

drink is prepared.Absinthe Anisette

1 pony anisetteI jigger absinthe substitute

Use a small glas$ and fill with shaved or finely cracked ice. Pourin the anisette and absinthe. Jiggle with a barspoon until heavilyIrapped and serve In the sameglass, A straw goes with this one.T he modern ab sinthe sub stitutes cannot be detected intaste even b y those who were fam iliar w ith the originalbut now illegal liquor, a flood of fancy an d trademarkednames has resulted, and it is marketed under such names

as G reenopal, Herbsaint, Pernod, A ssent, Milky Way ,and the like.

Thirty-eight


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Green Opal Cocktail1 jigger G reenopal, or other absintbesubstituteY z pony dry gin! 1 , pen y anisette or o] eO .1 aa~hor!lnge bitters2 dashes Peychaud b itters

'(lilt the absinthe substitute 'and dry gin in a shaker. Add anisette11 ojcn (make your own choice), and, the two bitters. Fill shakerwith crushed ice to frappe.This is a special cocktail featured by Solari's; manu-flu curers of G reenopal, the absinthe substitute that givesIis cock ta il its foundation. The name green opal comesIrom 'its lovely opalescent color. - ~A different, highly recommended cocktail for thosewho want something very good as well as very differear,,Jitt-r- ~ ~-k ' t ~ I~_~,e~ "",GC.GL

1/3 jigger 'o jen, 1 /3 jigger gi,n1/3 jigger French vermouth

'pom all ingredients inte a barglass filled with 'ice" Jiggle with'1 arspoon until well fmppc!d, and serve in a . co ld cocktail glass,This is a Spanish cocktail featured by Fe(,flande,z; & Ce.,f 1 f l10US OJen distillers of Jerez., Spain. Barkeepers whoIaim that Ojen should not be mixed with other liquors,say this one ought to give anybody the "jitters."Olel and odd names for Ojen in New Orleans wereliM (tjorca" and uAllis del mono]' Majorca . f o r the fam-

ous Spanish island In the Mediterranean, and Ants del~nO?10 meaning "monkey anise." Why monkey P Your,~Ut:S8 is as good as mine. Maybe enough Ojen' cocktailsmceurage monkey shines I


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Ojen1 jigger ojen1 glass crushed ice1 ounce carbonated water

Fill a barglass with crushed ice. Add a jigger of ojen. Jiggleenergetically with a barspoon for a moment or two. Add anOl.lOCC of seltzer or other charged water and jiggle again. Straininfo a cocktail glass which' has been thoroughly chilled.

Ojen possesses so much delicacy of flavor that it shouldbe served neat and not mixed with other ingredients; al-though there are recipes that call for mixing. While anOjen is supposed to be frapped with a spoon, a goodshaking will do no harm to the flavor and will induce athicker coating of frost.Ojen (which is pronounced oh~h(12) is a word short-

ened from the Spanish ajenjo (ah -h etlh o) meaning ab-sinthe and wormwood in the musical tongue of Spain. Iti s manufactured from anise, which is also a predominantingredient in absinthe, and despite its original Spanishname, Ojen contains no harmful wormwood.

Ojen Cocktail1 jigger ojen2-3 dashes Peychaud bittersseltzer water,

Stir the mixture in a barglass with ice, add a 'little seltzer or othercharged water, and strain into a (rapped cocktail glass.The bitters give this Ojen a delicate rose-colored tinge.'I 'herefore it masquerades under the name of "Pink .Shimmy," or pinque chemise, if you prefer the languageof the fifty million who can't be wrong.

Forty


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Suissesse1 teaspoon sugar1 pony French vermouth2 ponies absinthe substitute1 white of egg!4 pony creme de rnt!1lt/lt!2 ounces charged water

Mile the sugar with charged water, vermouth, and absinthe, DropIn the white of egg. Fill the glass with cracked ice and shakevigorollsly. Strain into a champagne glass in which there is a-h 'rry with creme de menthe poured over it.Suissesse, a perfectly good French word meaning aSwitzerland-born female, lives up to the reputationiarned by those hardy daughters dwelling among therocks of their picturesque land. The Alps are wonder- 111 -so is a S uissesse, If the name stumps you, pronounceit "swee-cess" and you'll make the barkeep understandwhat you want. If you yearn to mix one yourself" fol-low the directions given above and find out why somefolk call a Suissesse tops in mixed drinks,Green Opal SuissesseT he Suissesse given above is probably what originatedSwiss yodelling. In New Orleans we have a variation ofth happy mixture that transforms yodelling into themore American "whoopee l" Follow these directions foran adventure in excitement

1 ji~ge.r Greenopal or other absinthesiibstituteY z pony anisette sirupwhite of an eggcrushed iceAll go into a metal shaker. Shake until the outside takes on aheavy frosting. Bear in mind that one egg white will take careof ten or a dozen portions. Serve in cocktail glasses.

Forty-otic


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"Th e Infa,mous Liquor, th e name of wh ich a l ! 1 ' ; , , ' J from[unipcr-Berries in Dutch, is now, by frequent-lise from a wordof midling length shrunk into a Monosyllable, Intoxicating Gin."1714 .

G in D rinksOf all popular alcoholics, gin probably leads in favor,especially in tropic and sub-tropic countries. To go high

hat with the language, gin is an aromatized potable witha characteristic flavor derived from the juniper berry.The word "gin" is merely a shortening of the liquor'soriginal name, genepa, taken from an old Dutch ward,geneaer, a name for the juniper berry.In old writings (sud). as one of 1706 : "Geneva, a kindeof Strong Water, so called") are found many 'referencesto this liquor, Its shortened form Gin, form erly denoteda double distilled spirit of British manufacture, imitationo f th e o rig in alliquo r, marketed by the Dutch as Hollandsgenetic, later known as Hollands, but today called Hol-land G in.That the British form of genetic was for many yearseven as now a . popular drink, is am ply proved by litera-ture of the past. For example, in 1709 "The GypsieWith Flip and Geneve got most Damnably Typsie," andin 1728, Dean Swift, driving home a simile, wrote: "Theirchatt'ring makes a louder din than fishwives o'er a cupof jin,"OUt so-called dry gin, usually coupled with the infer-unation on the bottle that it is "London Dry Gin," aspopular in this country and the British possessions, as itis in the Merry Old Isle. First made in England by a -redistillation process repeated frequently before bottling,it is quite different from the old Holland gins whichverge on the sweet side.

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Fable tells us that the name "Old Tom" Gin, of certainBritish brands, was so named when an old Tom cat fellinto a barrel of the spirits. This tradition is antedatedb y the fact that years before the tale of the drowned catwent the rounds, Hodge's Distillery in England namedeh ir brand of gin for old Tom Chamberlain, a distiller, played by them. His picture in the garb of a sailor0 ,1pears on the labels pasted on the bottles.Sloe Gin, used in some of our fancy mixed drinks, is

named for a small, bitter black wild plum, the oil ofwhich is used to flavor the distilled spirit-not becauserhere is anything slow about its effects. Sloe gin is fastomlng into favor because of its mild strength and theIistinctive flavor given it by the sloe berries-tart yetsomewhat sweet.Practically all of the gin drinks, the drys, Old Toms,

and sloes, belong in the tall glass category . . tall oneschat tinkle when filled with ice and make hot days coolishand hot nights cooler. Before you try any of the famousNew Orleans recipes which have for their basic ingredientgood old gin, first let me introduce you to a mixed drinkthat has won world-wide acclaim-New Orleans ownand truly refreshing Ramos Gin Fizz.

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Ramos Gin F'izz.1 tablespoon powdered sugar

3-4 drops orange Bower waterY z lime-juice only! 4 lemon-juice only1 jigger dry gin1 white of egg1 jigger rich milk or cream1 squirt seltzer water2 drops extract vanilla (optional)

Mix in a tall barglass in the order' given; add crushed ice, nottoo fine as lumps arc needed to whip lip the froth of the egg whiteand cream, Use a long metal shaker and remember this is onedrink, which needs a long, steady shaking. Keep at it until themixture gets body-"ropy" as some experienced barkeepers ex-press it. When thoroughly shaken, strain into a tall thin glass forserving.This gin fizz long has been an institution in the citycare forgot, The age of the Ramos gin fizz is well pastthe half-century mark and its' popularity Sh0WS no signsof abating. In the good old days before the federal gov-'ernment was so prodigal with padlocks, the saloons ofHenry C. Ramos were famous for the gin fizzes shaken

up by a busy bevy of shaker boys. Visitors, not to men-tion home folk, flocked in droves to the Ramos dis-pensary to clown the frothy draft that Ramos alone knewhow to make to perfection. One poetical sipper eulo-gized it thus: "It's like drinking a flower!"Exactly what went into the making of a Ramos ginfizz always has been more or less a secret. One thing is

certain-s-only at the Ramos establishment could one getwhat tasted like a real gin fizz. Wherefore, like all sue-cessful drinks, the Ramos fizz was widely imitated butnever really duplicated. Possibly no other thirst assuag-F ol'.ty-four


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I llg emporium gave the, m ix ture the long deliberate shak-ng it received from th e shaker boys behind the RamosI ) 1 1 1 ' , and that was th e secret of it s lip -smack in g goodn ess.J:une prohib ition, and the drink that made the name ofRamos famous disappeared. After the. return of legalliquor the trade name of Ram08 on a gin fizz was ac-quired by the Hotel Roosevelt, and today that is its legaldomicile.T he gin fizz, and by that I mean the common or gat-den variety , had its beginning way back yonder, but the'R amo s con co ctio n was not known to Orleanians until1888 when Henry C . Ramos came to New Orleans fromBaton Rouge and purchased the Imperia l Cabin et saloon[rom Emile Sunier, T Ile Cabinet was located at thecorner of G ravier and C arondelet streets (where a

modern Sazerac saloon now holds forth) and above it,em the second story , was a famous restaurant of days:r~ne by~The Old Hz'ckory. Here it was that HenryRamos served the gin fizz th at d ep arted so radically fromthe other frothy gin m ixtures served in New Orleansaloons, and here he remained until i907 when he pur-.hased T om Anderson's Stag saloon opposite the G ravierstreet entrance to the St. C harles Hotel.The new place became a mecca for the thirsty and forthose pioneers who would make a pilgrimage of any sortf r a new drink, At times The Stag becam e so crowded~hat custom ers w ere forced to wait an hour or more (or

80 it seemed) to be served. T he corps of busy shaker-boy sb ehind the bar was one of the sights of the town duringlarnival, and in the 1915 M ardi G ras, 35, shaker boysnearly shook their arms off, but were still, unab le to keepup with the demand.

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T he recipe given is the original form ula. V eteran bar-keeps differ violently=-practically come to blows-overthe inclusion of the tw o innocent drops of extract ofvanilla. Old-timers who. worked for Henry Ramos in'the 'past declare the original Ramos included no vanillain its make-up. Others hold that the twin drops of ex-tract wrung from the heart of the vanilla bean eithermake or b reak a real gin fizz-make it taste like heavenor the reverse.T herefore, when you mix your fizz, add the tw o vanil-la drops or leave them out, just as you please. If still indoub t, take it up with Paul A lpuente at the Hotel Roose-velt bar. He was with Henry Ramos for years and whenhe m ixes your Ramos gin fizz, watch. him C losely .r' .

Tom 'Collin s1 barspoon powdered sugar1 lemon-ju] ,e only1 dash orange Bower water!I i lim .e-ju ice only1 jigger dry gin .2 ounces seltzer waterInto a tall h ighball glass place a, generous spoonful of bar sugar.Squeeze in . the juice of a" lemon. Add a dash of orange flo 'werwater, and squirt in about 2 ounces of seltzer. Stir until thesugar is dissolved. Next squeeze in the juice of half a lime andadd a generous jigger of gin , S tir. Add several lum ps o f fineice and jiggle with a b arspoon. Add just enough seltzer to fillto the b rim and jiggle energetically . Serve in the m ixing glass.Who was Tom Collins? No. matter=especially on ahot summer day , when you need the coolest; the most re-freshingdrink known to sweltering humanity , W hetheror not you know' any thing about Mr. C ollins or his 'an-tecedents, ot why he was important enough to' have a

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rink named for him, yOU' can take our word for it thatthis one is among the best known and best liked drinksin New Orleans, and all points West, E ast, and North.Like many another thirst-quencher, the Tom Collins issubject to infinite variations. It is not difficult to con-'oct and no knack is needed to make it just right, butw implore you not to leave out th e dash of orange flow-'r water. Depart not from the recipe above, sanctioned b y]ohn Swage, one of the best o ld -time mixologis ts whoever pushed a Tom Collins across polished mahogany.Then there is Rum Collins, or "Charley Collins",which found its way into New Orleans from Cuba. Tomake this one substitute Cuban Itype rum, Bacardi orlike brands, for the dry gin, but don't leave out the dashof orange flower water.John Collin s

1 b arspoon pow dered sugar1 lemon-juice only1 dash orange flower water

V a lime-=juiceonly3-4 jigger rye whiskey

! 4 jigger rum2 OIlUl;;CS seltzer water

A John Collins is made exactly like the Tom Collinswith one exception ... use no gin. The same amount ofsugar, lemon, orange flower water, lime and seltzer. Sub-stitute for the. gin three-quarters of a jigger of, ryewhiskey plus one-quarter jigger rum. Mix, stir, and icein the same ,way you fixed u p Brother Tom, and thereyou have a cooling summer drink, preferred by many 'tothe one named 'for Tom Collins. .

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Gin FizzesSilver, Golden, and Roy'al Fizzes

1 lemon-juice onlyI barspoon powdered sugar1 jigger dry gin 'seltzer w aterMix in < 1 bar glass, drop in several lumps of icc, cover with ashaker and shake well. Pour into ,1 tall serving glass and fillwith seltzer Water.The above is the common or garden variety of gin fizz,in which that old standby gin plays the principal role,and is ' not to be confused with the celebrated Ramos ginfizz that has helped contribute to New Orleans' fame.As with other popular drinks, the gin fizz lends itself

to endless variations. We have the Silver Fizz, the GoldenFizz, and the Royal Fizz-a trinity of throat-ticklers inwhich the addition of an egg, in its separate and col-lective parts, makes the difference.A Silver Fizz is made exactly like the gin Jizz givenabove-w ith the addition of the white of an egg. Shake

well in a shaker, remembering that largish pieces of iceare needed whenever any part of an egg is added to amixture.A Golden Fizz is identical with the above, save that theyolk only of the egg is used.

IA Royal Fizz requires both the yolk and white of theegg.In any of these: gill fizzes it must be remembered thatthe fizz water is' added to the drink after ithas beenshaken and strained into the serving glass.P,ort'l.eigilt


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Dry Martini1 pony French vermouth1 pqny dry ginY z teaspoon orange bitters

Mbc:in a barglass with several good sized lumps of ice and stirwith a . barspoon-never put a dry martini in a shaker, as WilliamPowell and Myrna Loy did in The Thin Maa. Be sure to usel!f'nch brut or dry vermouth if you want your cocktail to crackle.Don't forget the olive! A small pearl onion may take its place, f you're onion-minded. Spear the olive (or onion) with a tooth-pi k for dainty transfer from hand to mouth.Visitors who know their liquor will soon discover thatin no other one city does the man behind the bar mixbetter dry martini than in New Orleans. That is be-ause 'the bartender makes a simple operation of it, using

1 he better French makes of dry vermouth, such as NeillyPrat, Cinzano, and CaZap1'3; and dry gins like Gordon's,Hiram Walker's, Gilbey's, Milshire's, Fleischmann's, Sil-ver Wedding, or similar brands. When making yourown, use a good make of orange bitters. Do not shake.We repeat-do not shake, even i f you heard us the firsttime. Stir, and serve in a chilled glass.The dry martini was originally called the "Waldorf-

Astoria cocktail" as it was first made of French vermouth(not the sweeter Italian brand) at that famous old NewYork hostelry ill the gay '90's. The recipe called for adash of orange bitters, 1/3 French vermouth, and 2/3 drygin . . . olive, of course.John Swago, of the St. Regis, who knows what he isabout when. concocting a dry martini, uses dry gin and'rench vermouth in equal portions, and not the 2/3 ginand 1/3 vermouth usually suggested in drink recipes.Drink one of John's dry martinis and taste the difference!

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Not-Too-Dry Martini1-2 dashes orange bitters2/3 French vermouth1/6 Italian vermouth1/6 dry gin

This one is for those who prefer their martini cocktail not toodry and not too sweet. Stir as directed in the dry recipe withseveral pieces of lee. Strain into serving glass on top of a n olive.Note that this martini is darker in color and a trifle: on th e sweetside. .This one is frequently termed lithe perfect martini,'

Sweet Martini1 part dry gin2 parts Italian vermouth

This is the one to mix if a sweet martini is what you want. Stirand serve as directed fo r the dry martini, but do hot include anolive when you strain it into the cocktail glass.The Italian vermouths are not as dryas those made inFrance and are classified as "sweet" vermouths.' A fav-orite Italian vermouth is that manufactured by Martini

& Rossi, which vermouth, by the way, gave this cocktailits name. Vermout is the French word applied to a liquormanufactured from white wine flavored with certainaromatic herbs. In this country we spell it vermouth.

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Wa llis B lue C ocktail1 pony Cointreau1 jigger dry gin1 lime--juice only

Mix in a shaker well supplied with pieces of ice. Shake. Straininto a. cocktail glass, the rim of which should be rubbed withthe lime pulp and dipped in sugar just before being filled andserved.When radio and newspapers blazoned to the worldthat the Duke of Windsor had concocted a new cocktailat Chdteau d~ Cund, Monts, France, in honor of hismarriage to the Lady from Baltimore, many recipespurporting to be THE one found their way Into print-most of them impossib le. 'The former Edward VIII of England toasted his duch-ess-to-be in what proves to be a variation of the well-known and popular "Side Car" cocktail, with gin sub-stituted for brandy. That the cocktail might match theeyes of his American bride and reflect her penchant forblue, vegetable dye was added to give 'the proper color.Truly a royal gesture.The king who surrendered a throne for the woman heloved, mixed a . delightful and well-balanced cocktail.You can do the same, if Cointreau is used. While thereare a number o f satisfactory domestic cordials of the dis-tilled orange type, it is better to stick to the importedbrand of M. Cointreau, of Angers, France. Do not sub-stitute lemon juice for lime, and be sure you use a good

brand of dry gin. The blue coloring matter isn't abso-lutely necessary-but it looks pretty and matches Wally'seyes.


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Side Car Cocktail1 jigger cognac brandy1 pony Cointreau1 lime=juice only

Pour into a mixing glass with cracked Ice and shake well, Strainfrom the shaker into a cocktail glass, chilled before serving. Theimported French Cointreau w i l l . b e found superior to domesticbrands.. T his is the C ointreau drink upon which the Duke ofW Indsor based the "W atJis B lue" cocktail he created atthe prenuptial d inner for his b ride.

SOme prefer lemon when making a Side C ar to thetangy flavor of lime. O thers make it b y u sing on e-th irdeach of b randy . curacao, and lemon [uice, Some substi-tu te T riple Sec for the C ointreau. A ll are mighty good.One thing to bear in m ind when mixing and serving theSide C ar is that it.must be well {rapped. T herefore, neveru se 'Cock tail glasses that have not been well chilled inadvance.L egend has it that th is cocktail w as created by accident.An innkeeper of France, confused and excited by newsof damage to his side car, combin ed separate orders ofcognac b randy , C ointreau) and lemon [uice into a singledrink. T he m ischance proved a bonanza, for the happymixture found instant favor. G rowing in popularitythrough the years, Side C ar has now become the smart 'drink of two continents.

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Vieux Carre CocktailY i teaspoon benedictine1 clash Peychaud bitters1 clash Angostura bitters1/3 jigger rye whiskey1/3 ji.gger cognac bral1dy1/3 jigger Italian vermouth

The benedictine is used as a base and also for sweetening theocktail. Dash on the bitters, then add the rye, brandy, andvermouth, Put several lumps of ice in the barglass. Stir. Twista slice of lemon peel over the mixture. Drop in a slice of pine.apple and a. cherry 1 you wish and serve in mixJng glass.This is the cocktail that Walter Bergeron; head bar-tender of the Hotel Monteleone cocktail lounge, takesspecial pride in mixing. He originated it, he says, to dohonor to the famed V ietex Ca rre, that part of New Or-leans w here the antique shops and the iron lace balconies

give sightseers a glimpse into the romance of another day.Orange Blossom

1 pony orange juice2 ponies dry gin1 dash Peychaud bitters

This drink calls for a shaker. Allow plenty of ice lumps and besure the mixture is well frapped before pouring into cocktailglasses previously chilled.A simple. drink to mix and simply grand to drin.k,especially on a hot day or a warm night. Some devoteesof this cocktail prefer a half-and -half mixture of gin andorange juice, and some forego the delight of the dash ofPeychaud bitters in favor of the addition of a little grena-dine sirup o r a little honey. Some, make it by using a.third each of gin, Italian vermouth, and orange juice.Whichever recipe you follow, be sure you have a sweetjuicy orange. We recommend Louisiana Sweet-the beston the market.

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Rickeys 1 jigger dry ginorsloe gin,rum,ry e whiskey,bourbon. whiskey,.~ lime=-juice and pulpseltzer waterMix in the 6 or 8 ounce highball. glass in which it is to be served.Fill with crushed ice and squirt on the seltzer or oth.Cl' sparkli.ngwater. Remember the lime pulp is left in the glass. -

Rickeys must have lime juice in their composition,whether they are made with dry or sloe gin, C uban typerum, rye or Bourbon whiskey . U ser plenty of ice cubeswhen mixing, don't fail toindude the squeezed-out limepulp, and liven with seltzer water. Any of the waterswhich do queer things to your HOse will answer,All we know about the naming of this simple, satisfy-ing summer drink, which comes to us in a tair glass with, clinking ice, is that it was named for a certain ColonelJoseph Rickey, Another allegation is that he was amember of Congress I -State Street Cocktail

1 jigger unsweetened pine.apple juice1 lemon-juice only% . lime-juice only1 jigge,\ dry gi.n1 whIte of egg ,2 teaspoons s-ugarMill. sugar with th e gin and pineapple juke until dissolved. Addjuice 0 the lemon and lime. AfteJ: placing in shaker with plentyof ice lumps, add the whi e of egg-remembering that one eggwill do for a dozen. portions. Shake vigorously~ as -with all drinksconulining egg white, Serve ln dear crystal glasses. This drinkis as pleasant to the eye asto the palate with its pale amber colorand colIar of foam.T his is the author's favorite warm weather cocktail. HeFifty-four


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is fond of it in . the win te rtime , too. In fact, he doesn'tknow any season w hen it fails to hit the spot. H is w ifebrought the original recipe bade 1'000 Mexico under thename of uFranc()~tJ but t-heauthor tound by experimentthat gin was a great improvement over ptllquc, mcso(ll,or tequila in mixing the drink.We always improve 'em in New Orleans. How truewhat they say about DLxie!B.ronxCocktai l

% , dry gin~ French dry vermouth~ Italian vermouth, 1 th ick slide orange1 dash Peychaud -b itte rsT he Bronx is far from being a dry cocktail, b ut neither is it to osweet. A s :the flavor depends upon the orange, it would be wellto selece a L ouisiana Sweet, if possib le. T he tall barglass shouldbe filled w ith shaved ice and, with the m etal shaker over it, givena vigorous shaking before contents arc strained ihto the se-nringglass, Some add a dash of Peychaud or Angostura b itters to them ix tu re b efo re serving.Just why this particular .mixture -was christened th eBronx remains a mystery and probab ly always will. It isquite possib le some inspired soul concluded that i f Man-hattan had its own particular cocktail there was no goodreason why the Borough of the Bronx should not simi-lady b e honored.Like the' Manhattan, there are a number of favoredrecipes for the B ronx, vary ing in . th e qu an tities of gin,vermouths, and orange used. 'Ilhe reelpe given above isthe one usually served in New Orleans, and when a LOu~isiana Sweet orange is used, the stranger in our midstlearns that a Louisiana-grown Valencia is much juicierand sweeter than the oranges which come to us fromFlorida or sunrry California. (Florida and Californiapapers please copy .)

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Pink Lady1 pony dry gin1 pony applejack or apple brandy1 [ime=-juice only .2 barspoons grenadine sirup1 white of egg

Use a barglass for mixing. The amount of grenadine used willdetermine the sweetness of the. drink : ' I S well as th e pinkness ofthe lady. The white of egg, which will do io r one or a dozendrinks, improves its smoothness. Use large lumps of ice in theshaker. Serve in chilled cocktail glasses.There are ladies and ladies, but this one, named for alight opera, makes everything rosy.Another with plenty of championing boy friends isconcocted thus: two barspoons of grenadine or raspberrysirup, a jigger of gin, white of egg, and three dashes ofPeychaud bitters. Prepare in a shaker glass and exerciseyour arms, for this one is "To the Ladies!"

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O ld H icko ry Cocktail1 pony French vermouth1 pony Italian vermouth1 dash orange bitters2 dashes Peychaud bitters

Pour the two vermouths into a barglass, add the dash of orangebitters, the two shots of Peychaud bitters. Fill with cubes of iceand 'stir well. Strain into a serving glass. Twist a piece of lemonpeel over then drop it into the glass.According to hoary but unsubstantiated tradition, thiswas the favorite tipple of General Andrew Jackson whenhe was in New Orleans the winter of 1814-15 helping

pirate Jean LafIite win the Battle of New Orleans.But we can promise this Old Hickory cocktail won'tbe as tough on your palate as was "Old Hickory" Jacksonon the British that historic Eighth of January.


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C lover C lub1 jigger dry gin~ Iime=-juice onlyIpony raspberry sirupI white of egg1 dash Peychaud bitters,

Four the ingredients into the shaker in order given. Drop in thelumps of ice. Set yourself for a good shaking, for this is a cock-tail that must be well frapped To give chic to the final result,decorate your cocktail glasses with sprigs of mint after straininginto them the delightful liquid from your shaker.Some of the how-to-mix'em-experts use grenadine sirupinstead of the raspberry. Upon experiment it will befound that red raspberry not only gives a prettier pinkcolor but imparts a flavor grenadine cannot match. As ithas the white of an egg in it, this cocktail must be wellshaken. I. .-Why was it named a clouer cocktail? Well, you haveus there. Possibly it's because the lucky recipient, aftertossing it off (or should this drink be tossed?) will con-cede that the finding of a four-leaf clover is not so luckyas finding this cocktail.We have always admired the added ummph the dashofPeychaud bitters gives this deservedly popular concoc-tion.

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Alexandre1 pony dry gin1 pony creme de cacao1 pony rich cream1 white of egg

Have just enough shaved or finely pounded ice in the shakerbefore pouring in the gin; creme de cacao, and cream. Rememberthat one white of egg will do, whether yau are mixing for twaor a dozen guests. Be strenuous in your shaking whenever thereis white of egg or cream in a mixture. Shake. brother. shake,and then shake some more for good measure. Strain .into cocktailglasses and hear your guests call you a good mixer.Smooth as cream , delicate as dew , and easily preparedis the A lexandre. Some Who m ix this particular cocktaildo not use the white of egg. A m istake, for the albumengives a fro th and an added smoothness which makes thiscocktail different. L ike all drinks in which egg white is

used vigorous shaking is required, G ive the A lexandreall you've got in elbow grease to make it live up to itsreputation-for it is truly A lexander the G reat -amongdrinks in its class.Note our Frenchy spelling. If you have troub le w ithits pronunciation, simply hold your nose tight betweenthumb and forefinger. But, should you by mischancepronounce it Alexander-i t will taste just the same. Andthe taste is sim ply de-lovely .


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"Th e ch iC le 'ud/ing th ey makt: in eh'e Islands Barbados ;s Rum-Imllion, alias Kilt-Devil, fm d th is is mad 01 J ugar canes dis# lled,a holt, hellish. and ter rib le Liquor." 1651Rum Drinks

From time immemorial rum has been distilled as a b y-product of the manufacture of sugar in all countrieswhere sugar cane is grown. As a liquor it became the ac-o cepted beverage practically everywhere that strong drinkWas in demand, and with the spread of its popularity alllusty liquors, regardless of origin, were termed "rum."In th e early days blackstrap molasses, from which rumwas distilled, was shipped from Jamaica, Puerto Rico,Santo Domingo, Cuba, and the Barbados into staid NewEngland. True rum. is a spirit distilled from "dunder"and molasses. Dunder is taken from the Spanish wordredundar, meaning overflow, and applied to the lees ordregs of cane juice used in the fermentation of-rum. Theword "rum" is an abbreviation of rumbullion, meaningtumult or uproar-not an inappropriate application INorth American Indians had their 0 own name for thedrink-they caned it ({cootu tooow]' a sort of improve.ment on their customary war whoop.Remember the ditty sung by the pirate crew in RobertLouis Stevenson's Treasure I sland?

('Y o no h o and a bottle of rum l"Cuba. holds the palm for producing the best rum, al-though staid old New England has made excellent rumfrom imported blackstrap molasses since 1680, and Lou-isiana's sugar plantations today contribute their share ofexcellent domestic brands. More than a . century agoLouisiana's rum masqueraded under the name of tafia."There's naught. no doubt. so much the spil'ie calms as rum andtru religion." Lord Byron's Don Juan. 1819.

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Bacordi Cocktail1 t e . 1 S P O O n . sugar1 limo-juice only1 jigge.r rum Bacardi

Mix in a barglass. Muddle the sugar and lime juice thoroughlybefore adding the rum. Fill with cracked ice. Shake' well andthen strain into a cocktail glass.You and I may argue a lot and get nowhere regarding_the proper pronunciation of the word Bacardi, but after

sampling this cocktail, there'll be no argument as to itseffect and authority. It is by far the best way to servesugar cane rum, whether bottled in New England, Cuba,[amaica, Puerto Rico, or' Louisiana.In making a Bacardi cocktail be sure to use lime, notlemon, and put no grenadine or other flavored sirup intothe mixture. When you shake a Bacardi, frappe i t long

and well, for it must be served very cold to get the de-licious flavor of the rumbulliotJ.Bacardi rum received its name from the Bacardi familyof Cuba, well-known distillers and botders at Santiago ofthis particular brand. The correct pronunciation is ba-car-de.

Daiquiri Cocktail1 teaspoon grenadine sirup1 lime-juice only1 jigger rum

Like the Bacardi, the Daiquiri should be well shaken; lime juice,not lemon, should be used to furnish the tang. The grenadinesweetens the cocktail and gives it. color. Shake well with ice andstrain into the serving glass.The Daiquiri, like the Bacardi, is a Cuban importationand is very popular in Havana as well as New Orleans.

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Again like the Bacardi its name is truly Cuban, Daiquiribeing the name of a city in the southeastern part of thatfamous island not very far from Santiago. .. T~e two .cockt~i1s are q~it~ similar, the diff~renc~ ly -mg In the inclusion or omissron of the grenadine SIrup.Both are good. Daiquiri is pronounced Dah~ke~ree.

Frozen Daiquiri1 lime~jllice only1 teaspoon sugnrI dash white maraschino liqueur1 jigger rum

Place the lime juice and sugar in an electric mixing cup, dashon the white maraschino liqueur, and add the tum. Fill halffull 0 . finely crushed ice (shaved ice won't do) and place cupunder the electric m ixer. L et. it whirr until the m ixture is wellrap~d .. until it is practically a sherbet. Strain in a saucer-shaped champagne glass using an ordinary kitchen wire strainer.Shake from side to side and tap rim. of the strainer with spoonto force the fine icy particles through the mesh,During the good old summertime a new sort of cock-tail, with fum for its basis, has taken New Orleans bystorm=-a sort of snow storm. If you have not met theFrozen Daiquiri just picture a champagne glass filledwith snow, cold as Christmas, and as hard as the heart ofa traffic cop.You'll have to have something beside the old reliablecocktail shaker to produce this one. It must be whirred to

its icy smoothness with an electric drink-mixer-the kindused in making a malted milk.It is also. called "West Indies Cocktail."

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New Orleans Presidente

Cuban PresidenteV z jigger rumV z jigger

famous new orleans drinks and how to mix them

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