fancy basket fabric design on handloom weaving machine

Istanbul Technical UniversityTextile Engineering

Fabric Design Term PaperHand loom weaving and NedGraphics software preperations

Instructor: Burçak Karagüzel Kayaoğlu

Berrak Arıkan 140120036

Sinem Atasoy 140120063

Esin Yegin 140120069

Weaving process requires detailed preparations before starting the manufacture. In this paper, we are

going to explain the process of hand-loom weaving including especially preparation, calculations and

practice by using NedGraphics software and manually. Like weaving machines(with power), hand looms are

also requires the pre-treatments like plans, calculations etc. Parts and working principle of hand-loom can be

explained like that; There is a treadle which lifts the harnesses, buttons on the machine which turns

harnesses active or passive position(This is done by manually. A person should follow the lifting plan and

choose the right harnesses after every weft insertion). After the harnesses are prepared, a person push treadle

so shedding motion occurs then weft yarn insertion should be done. This movement is called picking. After

picking, harnesses are put down and beating-up motion should done. This sequence is repeated and the

fabric is obtained. A lot of preparation is required before begin this process. To have the desired

characteristic of the fabric, all the calculations and preparations should be done very sensitively and all the

steps of the process should be under control. So Nedgraphics software serve the purpose of simulation of the

fabric before it is weaved. All the parameters, designs and colors are entered to the programme and

Nedgraphics helps planning of the weaving process also gives the opinion of the end product.

First, the DID, weaving, lifting and reed plans should be done primarily. After that plans, proper

warp and weft yarn types should be chosen according to fabric’s end uses. Our fabric’s end use is coat, so

we choose coarser yarns for warp and weft to achieve our target fabric handle. Our yarns raw materials are

wool for warp and weft. Next, total number of ends should be calculated and warping process should be

done. This process takes approximately 2 hours however, yarns are ready to be fixed to the hand loom. After

transferring the yarns to the hand loom every single yarn must pass through the heddle eyes. To be able to

do this process, needed number of heddle eyes should be attach to de harnesses. Then yarns are passed

through the heddle eyes in a sequence so when doing this people have to be make sure that the order of

heddle eyes on each harnesses should be regular. After that, yarns attached to the reed according to reed

plan(number of ends/dent should be calculated). This process takes about 3 hours in total. Hand loom is

ready for weaving a fabric now.

Next, for weaving weft yarn is needed. Hand loom works with the shuttle so weft yarns are inserted

with the shuttle. A small reel is wrapped by weft yarns and put on the shuttle. After the shedding motion,

shuttle is inserted between two pieces of yarns with lateral movement. Because of the having shuttle, fabric

has exact selvages on the sides. Warp yarns are exposed high tension so they have to breast the tension. For

our warps, they have enough twist number and have enough elasticity so during weaving none of our warp

yarns are break. We start weaving our fabric with the sequence of shedding-picking-beating up motions.

According to lifting plan every time after beating up motion harnesses are changed. For having a regular

structure we try to apply the same force when doing beating up motion. Before inserting the weft yarn, we

make sure that two layer of yarns are right position otherwise fabric will has faults on its surface.

After weaving, two piece of 25x25 cm fabrics are obtained. One of them using for laboratory

analysis and the other one for homework sample. On the other hand, fabric has a constant width and constant

density. It has gray and purple color in warp and weft yarns. Furthermore, values which theoretical and the

actual ones are close each other. Our error ratio is reduced because of this reason.

To sum up, fabric structure and appearance overlapped with the expected values. Also nedgraphics

simulation is very similar to the exact fabric.

Theoretical Calculations

Yarn counts;

Warp yarn count: = Nm 8.75 = Ne 5.16

Weft yarn count: = Nm 8.75 = Ne 5.16

dwarp = = 0.0399 cm dweft = = 0.0399 cm

Warp crimp: 6% Weft crimp: 8%

Maximum theoretical warp density;

Repeat= 16.928 d1 = 0.675 cm

14 yarns in 0.675cm? at 1cm

20.70 ends/cm

Also weft density is the same because their yarn counts are the same.

So we decide to take warp density as 20 ends/cm and weft density as 19 picks/cm

Total number of ends;

Selvage ends: 0.5cm x 2 x24 ends/cm = 24 ends

Base ends: 24cm x 20 ends/cm = 480 ends

Total number of ends: base ends + selvage ends = 480 + 24 = 504 ends

Reed calculations;

Reeded width: 25cm x 1.08 = 27cm

Reed number: = 186,66 190

2d1=0.0798 cm

For 1 ends/dent:

0.0337cm<0.0798 cm (not sufficient)

For 2 ends/dent:

95 dents in 10cm1 dents in ?0.105cm x 0.66 =

0.069cm space

0.0694cm< 0.0798 cm (not sufficient)

For 3ends/dent:

65 dents in 10cm1 dents in ?0.153cm x 0.66 = 0.1009cm space

0.10098cm >0.0798 cm (feasible)

Cover factor calculations;

190 dents in 10 cm1 dent in ?0.0526cm x 0.66 =

0.0347cm space

c1 = n1 x d1 = 20 x 0.0399 = 0.798

c2 = n2 x d2 = 19 x 0.0399 = 0.758

cfabric = 0.798 + 0.758 – (0.798 x 0.758) = 0.9511

= 95.11%

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I.T.U. Textile Eng.Date: 23.12.2015Name: Sinem Atasoy Berrak Arıkan Esin Yegin

FABRIC ANALYSIS

YARN RAW MATERIAL Warp WoolWeft Wool

Yarn

TYPE Warp Ring yarnWeft Ring yarn

COUNT Warp Nm 8.75Weft Nm 8.75

TM and direction Warp 750 ZWeft 650 S

OTHER Warp Dyed yarnWeft Dyed yarn

Fabric

DENSITY (cm)

Greige Warp ± 3 19.20Weft ± 3 18.05

Finished Warp ± 5 20Weft ± 5 18.6

CRIMP (%)

Greige Warp 1.03Weft 1.0413

Finished Warp 1.0607Weft 1.0827

G/M²

Greige Warp 226.01Weft 214.80

Finished Warp 242.44Weft 230.0

Measured Total 472.44LENGTH OF WARP in 100 m of finished fabric Finished 106.07

GREIGE FABRIC LENGTH (for a finished length of 100 m)

Finished 103.035

WEAVE DESIGN Fancy basket 5/4/3/2

REED NO 186,6 ~ 190ENDS/DENT 3 ends/dent

WIDTH (cm)Reed 27 cmGreige 26Finished 25

NUMBER OF ENDS Ends (base) 480Selvage 24Total Ends 504

Finishing None

WEAVING MACHINE SELECTION Hand loom

COVER FACTOR 94.78%

Observation Warp density Weft density

ends/cm ends/inch pick/cm picks/inch

1 20 ends/cm 50.8 ends/inch 18 pick/cm 45.72 picks/inch





Average 20 ends/cm 50.8 ends/inch 18.6 pick/cm 47.24 picks/inch

(a) length of warp yarn before crimping (b) length or width of the fabric

(a) length of weft yarn before crimping (b) length or width of the fabric

1 2 3 4 5 1 2 3 4 5

1a 1b 2a 2b 3a 3b 4a 4b 5a 5b 1a 1b 2a 2b 3a 3b 4a 4b 5a 5b

1 26.4 25.1 26.4 25 26.5 25.1 26.5 25 26.5 25 27.1 25.1 26.9 25 27.2 24.9 27.2 25 27.1 25.1

2 26.7 25.1 26.4 25 26.5 25.1 26.4 25.1 26.6 25.1 27.9 25.1 27.1 25 27.5 25 27.3 24.9 27.2 24.9

3 26.6 25 26.6 25.1 26.8 25 26.7 25.1 26.5 25.1 26.9 25 27.5 25.1 27.1 25 26.9 25.2 26.8 24.9

4 26.9 25.2 26.6 25.1 26.6 25.1 26.5 25 26.6 25.1 26.9 25.2 27.5 25.1 26.9 25 26.9 25.2 26.8 25.1

5 26.5 25 26.5 25.2 26.6 25.1 26.6 25.1 26.6 25. 27 25 27.1 25.2 27.1 25.2 27 25.1 26.9 25.2

6 26.9 25.2 26.7 25 26.6 25 26.6 24.9 26.8 24.9 27 25.2 27 25 27 25 27.1 24.9 27 25

7 26.4 25.1 26.6 25 26.8 25 26.8 25.1 26.7 25 27.4 25.1 27 25 27.4 25 27.3 24.9 27.2 24.9

8 27.1 25 26.5 25.2 26.5 25.1 26.4 25 26.6 25.2 27.6 25 26.9 25.2 27.6 25.2 27.5 25.2 27.4 25.1

9 26.7 25 26.4 25.2 26.5 25.2 26.5 25.2 26.5 25.2 27.1 25 27.9 25.2 27.3 25.2 27 25. 26.9 25.

10 26.9 25 26.3 25 26.5 25 26.3 25 26.5 25 26.7 25 27.1 25 26.7 25 26.7 25 26.6 25

267.1 250.7 265.1 250.8 266.1 250.7 265.3 250.5 266 250.7 271.6 250.7 272 250.8 271.8 250.4 271.1 250.6 270.1 250.4

Calculations According to the Laboratory Analysis

Crimp;

Average uncrimped warp length= 265.9 cm

Average crimped warp length= 250.68 cm

Warp crimp= = 6.07%

Average uncrimped weft length= 271.32 cm

Total crimped weft length= 250.58 cm

Weft crimp= = 8.27%

Basis weight of finished fabric;

+ = 472.44 g/m2

*1 dm2 circular fabric sample measured 4.622 g, so 1 m2 fabric weigth is 462.2 g.

Error rate= = 2.21%

Basis weight of gray fabric;

Gray fabric warp density= = 19.20 ends/cm

Gray fabric weft density= = 18.05 picks/cm

+ = 440.81 g/m2

Cover factor;

cf = (n1 x d1)+(n2 x d2)-( n1 x d1 x n2 x d2)

= (20 x 0.0399) + (18.6 x 0.0399) – (20 x 0.399 x 18.6 x 0.0399)

Cfabric= 94.78 %

αe for warp;

TPM = αM √Nm

19.05 = αe x √Nm

19.05 = αe x √8.75

αe = 6.44

αe for weft;

TPM = αM √Nm

16.51 = αe x √Nm

16.51 = αe x √8.75

αe = 5.58

100 cm 750 turns2.54 cm ? X=19.05

100 cm 650 turns2.54 cm ? X=16.51