fantine sweaterpatter

8/6/2019 Fantine sweaterpatter

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French Girl 2006 please do not reproduce without permission all rights reserved images rain Grimes 2006

FANTINE

in Rowan Big Wool

DESIGNS IN KNIT AND CROCHET

Kristeen Griffin-Grimes

French Girl


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GOODS

MEASURE

GAUGE


French Girl 2006 Please do not reproduce without permission. All rights reserved. non commercial use only. images rain Grimes 2006

FANTINE

French GirlRowan Big Wool (87yds/80m) Shown in Glamour & Black (2-4)

Cap sleeve versions: 2 (2, 3, 3, 3, 3, 4) balls.

3/4 sleeve versions: 2 (3, 3, 3, 3, 4, 4) balls.

Knitting needles, #17(12 mm) circular & double pts(for 3/4 sleeve)

vintage buttons, tapestry needle, markers, crochet hook(optional).

XXS (XS, S, M, L, XL, XXL) Finished bust: 31.5 (33.5, 35.5, 37.5,39.5, 41.5, 43.5)/80 (85, 90, 95, 100, 105, 110) cm

8 sts & 12 rows= 4x 4 (10cm x 10cm) in stockinette stitch using

#17(12mm) needles.

SIZING

FANTINE is about funand a fast nish! Knit in Rowan Big

Wool, the design uses only 2-4 balls (depending on version

chosen), some great vintage buttons, and you are out the door

feeling quite proud of yourselfand well you should be!

Available in 3/4 & cap sleeve versions with scoop or mandarin

collar necklines.

Top-down construction allows you to try on top and adjust the

length or number of increases if necessary.

**Please visit our website (www.frenchgirlknits.com) or e-mail us ([email protected]) for information.

SKILLS:

FG02

MANDARIN COLLAR, CAP SLEEVE VERSION:

CO 35 (35, 35, 41, 41, 41, 41) sts using the cable cast on method.**

CollarRow 1 (RS): (LCS, P1) 6 (6, 6, 7, 7, 7, 7) times, place a marker in last purl st made (center back marker), (RCS, P1) 5 (5, 5, 6, 6, 6, 6)

times, RCS.

Row 2 (WS):(P2, K1) to last 2 sts, P2.

Row 3: As row 1. Remove center back marker.

Row 4: Working in established P2, K1 rib pattern, work 7 (7, 7, 8, 8, 8, 8) sts,PM, work 4 (4, 4, 5, 5, 5, 5) sts,PM, work 13 (13, 13, 15,

15, 15, 15) sts, PM, work 4 (4, 4, 5, 5, 5, 5) sts, PM, work to end. Mark the beginning and end of this row to show end of collar/begin-

ning of body. The rst button loop will begin here.

Yoke

Row 5 (increase row): LCS, P1, LCS, (work to 1 st before marker, kinc, sm, kinc) 4 times, work to last 5 sts, RCS, P1, RCS--8 sts

incd.

Row 6 and all WS rows: P2, k1, p to last 3 sts, k1, p2.

Repeat rows 5 & 6: 6 (7, 8, 8, 9, 10, 11) times more, then repeat row 5 only once more--99 (107, 115, 121, 129, 137, 145) sts.

Before separating the sleeves from the body, slip all sts on string to try on and determine proper t. Try garment on, making sure

mandarin collar is positioned correctly at neck closure (with collar standing up and edges meeting, pin together temporarily). Determinewhether enough increases have been worked to make a comfortable armhole, keeping in mind that an additional 1/2.5cm of stitches

will be added under the arm. If more length is needed, work additional increase row(s) and try garment on again. If a longer cap sleeve

is desired, work additional increase row(s) EXCEPT work increases only on front & back body sides of the markers, not in the sleeve

sections (4 increases total).

Bind off sleeves: On next WS row, removing markers as you come to them, p2, k1, then p to rst marker, BO all sts between rst and

second markers, p to third marker, BO all sts between 3rd and 4th markers, p to last 3 sts, k1, p2.

Join fronts to back: Next row (RS): LCS, p1, LCS, k to sleeve opening, CO 4 sts as foll: turn work to reverse side and use cable

method to cast on 4 sts, marking the rst and last CO sts. Turn work to front and K across back. Cast on 4 sts at second sleeve opening

and PM as before, K across front to last 5 sts, RCS, p1, RCS. Front and back are now joined -- 67(71,75,79,83,87,91) sts.

Body

Next row(WS):Removing markers as you come to them,p2, k1, p to 1 st before marked CO st at underarm, *P2tog, P2, P2tog,*P across

back to 1 st before marked CO st at underarm, rep from * to *, p to last 3 sts, k1, p2--63 (67, 71, 75, 79, 83, 87) sts.

CO--cast on; BO--bind off

Dec--decrease

Inc--increase (where not otherwise specied, use M1)

K2tog--knit 2 together

Kinc--knit into front and back of next stitch

LCS (left cross st)--k into back of 2nd st on left needle, k into frontof 1st st on left needle, drop original 2 sts from left needle. Note:

Pull up sts snugly to match RCS.

M1-- make one by inserting right needle from the back under strand

between two needles, lifting strand onto left needle, then knitting

into back of strand to twist it.

PM--place marker

RCS (right cross st)--K into front of 2nd st on left needle, K into fron

of 1st st on left needle, drop original 2 sts from left needle.

SKP--Slip 1, Knit 1, Pass slipped st over

SM--slip marker

test knit: caroline perisho

tech editor: alexandra virgiel


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FANTINE


FG02

Next row (RS): LCS, p1, LCS, k to last 5 sts, RCS, p1, RCS.

Next row: P2, k1, p to last 3 sts, k1, p2.

If short row shaping is desired, see sidebar for instructions.

If short row bust shaping is not needed, repeat last 2 rows until desired length

(less 2/5cm for border) is reached (suggested nal length: 11.5-13.5/29-

34cm from cast on). Inc (dec, - , inc, dec, -, inc) 2 (2, -, 2, 2, -, 2) sts at center

back and/or side seams on last row to make a multiple of 3 + 2 sts--65 (65,

71, 77, 77, 83, 89) sts.Border

Row 1 (RS): (LCS, p1) 11 (11, 12, 13, 13, 14, 15) times, place a marker in

last purl st made (center back marker), (RCS, p1) 10 (10, 11, 12, 12, 13, 14)

times, RCS.

Row 2 (WS): (P2, k1) to last 2 sts, p2.

Repeat rows 1 & 2 once more. Bind off loosely in pattern. Weave in ends.

Buttons & buttonloops

Create button loops by attaching yarn to spot marked on right front edge at

base of collar. Then, either crochet a chain and attach to right side about

1/2/1cm below marker, secure and weave in ends, or with tapestry needle,

work buttonhole st over a length of yarn secured from marker to 1/2/1cm be-

low marker. Repeat for second buttonloop, spacing as desired. Sew buttons

on left side, using a at button on underside of work to secure top button.

Mandarin collar, 3/4 sleeves

Cast on and work Collar and Yoke as for cap sleeve version. Try on and

adjust t, if necessary, as for cap sleeve version, keeping in mind that another

1 of stitches will be added at the underarm, and that additional width may be

added if desired at the beginning of the Sleeve instructions.

Separate sleeves from body

On next WS row, removing markers as you go, p2, k1, p to rst marker, place

all sts between rst and second markers on a string to be knit later, p to third

marker, place all sts between third and fourth markers on a string to be knit

later, p to last 3 sts, k1, p2.

Join fronts to back, work body, border, and buttons & buttonloops as for

cap sleeve version.

Sleeves

Place all sleeve sts on needles, using your favorite method for working in the round over small circumferences (double pointed needles,2 circular needles, or Magic Loop are all possibilities). Attach new yarn where back sleeve sts join body sts, pm to designate beginning

of rnd, and pick up and knit 4 sts across armhole opening (pm for underarm after rst 2 picked-up stitches). K around to rst marker. If

additional width is desired, increase at sleeve seam by knitting to st before underarm marker, m1, k1, sm, k1, m1.

K 8 rnds even. Try on to determine if decreasing should begin yet. If more room is needed in upper arm, k 4 more rnds, then begin de-

creases. To decrease, k to 2 sts before underarm marker, k2tog, sm, skp, k to end of rnd; 2 sts decd. Work 6 rnds even, check t again

to see if more decreases are needed; continue to work decrease rnds as neces-

sary, ending 2/5cm before desired nal sleeve length (suggested nal length:

11-13/28-33cm from underarm). K 3 rnds, then nish with 3 rnds of k1, p1

ribbing, decreasing 1 st at underarm if necessary to achieve an even number of

stitches. Bind off loosely in rib. Weave in ends.

Scoop neck, cap sleeves

CO 41 (41, 41, 47, 47, 47, 47) sts using the cable cast on method.

Yoke

Row 1 (RS): (LCS, p1) 7 (7, 7, 8, 8, 8, 8) times, pm in last purl st made (center

back marker), (RCS, p1) 6 (6, 6, 7, 7, 7, 7) times, RCS.

Row 2 (WS): (P2, k1) to last 2 sts, p2.

Row 3: As row 1.

Row 4: Working in established p2, k1 rib pattern, work 8 (8, 8, 9, 9, 9, 9) sts,

pm, work 5 (5, 5, 6, 6, 6, 6) sts, pm, work 15 (15, 15, 17, 17, 17, 17) sts, pm,

work 5 (5, 5, 6, 6, 6, 6) sts, pm, work to end.

Row 5: LCS, p1, LCS, (k to 1 st before marker, kinc, sm, kinc) 4 times, k to last

5 sts, RCS, p1, RCS; 8 sts incd.

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Une Petite Note: Short Row Bust Shaping

For most sizes with C cup or larger bust, short rows can make

the difference between a good fit and a superior one. To calcu-

late positioning of short rows, after joining garment and working

a few rows, try on and measure down from shoulder to apex of

bust (garment will not have reached this length yet); making a

note how many inches more that will be from where you ended.Then measure horizontally from that point to where side seam

would be (make a note where that is). Using your 1st measure-

ment and stitch gauge, calculate how many rows until short

rows are to begin: divide row gauge (in this case,12 rows) by the

gauge measure(4in/10cm) to give the number of rows per inch

(in this case 3 rows). So if your measurement to bust apex was

2(5 cm) you would begin short rows after 6 more rows. Begin

by placing markers on garment at bust apex and side seams.

On first short row,* work to within 2 sts of 1st side seam marker,

with yarn in front, sl nxt st to rhn, wrap yarn around st as you slip

it back to lhn. Turn work to reverse side and work back to within

3 sts of 1st bust marker; repeat wrapping and turning, then work

back, (add one more set of short rows here as necessary, work-

ing to 2 sts of last wrapped st). When finished with that sidesshort row, continue to work across to remaining side, picking

up horizontal bar of wrapped st and working it together with st

on needle(hiding wrapped st).Remove seam marker, work to

other side to within 3 sts of next bust marker, repeat wrapping &

turning, working to within 2 sts of that side seam marker, repeat

wrapping & turning, (adding more sets of short rows if neces-

sary), then working to end of side, hiding wrapped st as above.

On next row, pick up all remaining wrapped sts.

Une Petite Note: Sleeve Shaping

To calculate exact number of decreases needed for sleeve,

first decide on length desired: Placing garment sleeves on

strings and trying on, take measure from sleeve edge to

desired arm length with arm bent; then using gauge, calculate

number of rounds needed to reach that length. For example,

if length desired is 10 more inches, then based on gauge, 28

more rows will be worked. To calculate number of decreasesneeded, start with stitch count(st ct) for upper sleeve circum-

ference, subtract st ct for lower sleeve width (compute this

from measuring the end circumference of arm where sleeve

will finish; then use gauge to find st ct). For example if begin-

ning st ct is 30 and final arm measure is 12(24sts) you will

need to decrease 6 sts at the sleeve seamline over 28 rows or

2 sts every 8 rows or so. This is just a general rule of thumb,

but is a great jumping off place for better fit in your garments.


4/4



FANTINE

FANTINE is about funand a fast nish! Knit in Rowan BigWool, the design uses only 2-4 balls (depending on versionchosen), some great vintage buttons, and you are out the doorfeeling quite proud of yourselfand well you should be!Available in 3/4 and cap sleeve variations with 2 collaroptions as well.


FG02

SCOOP NECK, CAP SLEEVE VERSION:

CO 41 (41, 41, 47, 47, 47, 47) sts using the cable cast on method.

Yoke

Row 1 (RS): (LCS, p1) 7 (7, 7, 8, 8, 8, 8) times, pm in last purl st made (center back marker), (RCS, p1) 6 (6, 6, 7, 7, 7, 7) times, RCS.

PM at end of row to mark location of rst button loop.

Row 2 (WS): (P2, k1) to last 2 sts, p2.Row 3: As row 1.

Row 4: Working in established p2, k1 rib pattern, work 8 (8, 8, 9, 9, 9, 9) sts, pm, work 5 (5, 5, 6, 6, 6, 6) sts, pm, work 15 (15, 15, 17,

17, 17, 17) sts, pm, work 5 (5, 5, 6, 6, 6, 6) sts, pm, work to end.

Row 5: LCS, p1, LCS, (k to 1 st before marker, kinc, sm, kinc) 4 times, k to last 5 sts, RCS, p1, RCS; 8 sts incd.

Row 6 and all WS rows: P2, k1, p to last 3 sts, k1, p2.

Repeat rows 5 & 6: 5 (6, 7, 7, 8, 9, 10) times more, then repeat row 5 only once more--97 (105, 113, 119, 127, 135, 143) sts.

Try on and adjust t, if necessary, as for Mandarin collar cap sleeve version.

Bind off sleeves, join fronts and back, complete body, border, and buttons & buttonloops as for Mandarin collar cap sleeve

version.

SCOOP NECK, 3/4 SLEEVE VERSION:

Cast on and work Yoke as for Scoop neck cap sleeve version.

Try on and adjust t, if necessary, as for Mandarin collar cap sleeve version.Separate sleeves from body, join fronts and back, complete body, border, sleeves, and buttons & buttonloops as for Mandarin

collar 3/4 sleeve version.

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