Fashion + Design Era Timeline

Higher and National 5 Design Studies: Fashion + Textiles

Miss McCourt

Lochaber High Art and Design Department

Era Georgian, 1740-1830Social & Cultural Agricultural Decline

Jacobite Rising Start of Industrial Revolution Class Divide and Social Reform Abolition of Slavery Expansion of British Empire and related wars – Indian War, Napoleonic Wars, French Revolution etc

Aesthetics & Manufacture The Georgian period has been described by historians as the ‘age of manufactures’, when British men and women gained access to a dizzying range of material things.

With improvements in transport and manufacturing technology, opportunities for buying and selling became faster and more efficient than ever before. And with the rapid growth of towns and cities, shopping became an important part of everyday life. Window shopping and the purchase of goods became a cultural activity in its own right, and many exclusive shops were opened in elegant districts: in the Strand and Piccadilly in London, for example, and in spa towns like Bath and Harrogate.

Clothing and fashion was highly important to the wealthy. A single item of clothing often represented the most expensive item in a person’s possessions and new items of apparel were usually highly treasured. Woollen garments that were heavy and difficult to clean began to disappear gradually after the first half of the century. These were replaced by cheaper printed cotton fabrics, that were first imported from India and then later manufactured in the expanding British textile trade in the north of England. Cotton clothes allowed ordinary men and women a greater choice of light and colourful clothing that was durable, easily washed and therefore more hygienic for the wearer.

Increasingly, from the late 1600s, men of all classes wore the familiar dress of the three-piece suit: breeches, a waistcoat and long coat. This was all set off with a ruffled shirt, stockings and shoes with buckles. For women, a bodice, petticoat and skirt were usual. Cheaper fabrics were printed with floral or patterned designs, though expensive items were made of silk and either embroidered or quilted. Hats remained in fashion for both sexes: tri-corn ‘cocked’ hats were usually worn by men, while women wore caps over which were tied wide-brimmed straw bonnets.

Contemporary Influences & References

Books: Jane Austen, Mary Shelley’s Frankenstein Poetry: Burns, Wordsworth, Blake, Keats and ByronFilms: Amazing Grace, Sleepy Hollow, Marie Antoinette, Interview with the Vampire, Pirates of the Carribean, BelleMusic: MozartArt: Goya, Delacroix, Constable and TurnerArchitecture: Gothic

Era Georgian, 1740-1830

Era Victorian, 1830s-1901Social & Cultural

Queen Victoria’s reign. Huge era for science and medicine, birth of psychiatry and Charles Darwin published his Theory of Evolution and Natural History was a very popular interest. Technology and engineering discoveries including the Industrial Revolution and the birth of railways, photography and film. Huge political reform as Britain became more liberal and women began to fight for the right to vote. School became compulsory for 5-13 year olds. Very divided society socially and poverty rife with poor houses very common supported mainly by the church and charities. Middle classes created and middle/upper classes took part in outdoor recreation, entertainment and socialising – children were often raised by ‘help’. Britain was colonising and at war with many countries. Industry opened up the economy and work market in factories. Travel became more of a possibility to those that could afford it as well as the dawn of the tram, steam ship and railways. There were very strict morals in Victorian society and a distinct place in society for men and women, rich and poor.

Aesthetics & Manufacture

Men and women were expected to dress formally in all occasions at home and leisure. Women wore long skirts and hoop skirts were worn underneath skirts to create volume and bustles to create rear volume. Dresses and jackets were extremely fitted at the waist to create a petite, shapely silhouette. This was created by the painful and at times dangerous corsets designed to modify the shape of the body. Accessories were part of an outfit for both men/women and accessories at least hats, headwear or gloves, as well as walking sticks and parasols, brooches

and corsages. The birth of factories meant more machine based production for textiles but many garments were tailored by hand Lace, crinoline, velvets, tweeds and silks and were common fabrics used and ruffling, layering and embellishment.

Contemporary Influences & References

Impressionist artwork such as Renoir and Monet. Period Drama Films/Books e.g. Charles Dickens Oliver Twist, Great Expectations etc, Brontes’ Jane Eyre, Wuthering Heights, Alice in Wonderland, Phantom of

the Opera, The Young Victoria, Sherlock Holmes Contemporary high fashion: John Galliano, Alexander McQueen Contemporary street styles: Gothic, Steam Punk etc today.

Era Victorian, 1830s-1901

Era Edwardian, 1901-1910 ( + Art Nouveau)Social & Cultural

A time of peace and prosperity London was the financial centre of the world Working classes began to politically protest for change Men were the source of wealth and women had little power – working class women faced ill health, malnourishment and poverty due to large families, poor working

conditions Unmarried mothers were shunned by society and women lost rights to see their children even in abusive relationiships Servants (male and female) in upper class and even some middle class homes were a big part of Edwardian society Einstein becomes widely recognised and T he Wright Brothers have their first successful flights Seen as romantic, nostalgic period where life was peaceful and innocent prior to World War 1 In 1903 Emmeline Pankhurst founded a new organisation, the Women's Social and Political Union and the Suffragette Movement began

.

Aesthetics & Manufacture Long skirts, sometimes with trains even for every day?

Huge hats embellished with feathers, flowers, ribbons etcShoes were narrow and often embellishedMen wore top hats for formal wearThree piece suits with waistcoats and trousersOver the ankle shoes – lace up bootsThe upper classes embraced leisure sports, which resulted in rapid developments in fashion, as more mobile and flexible clothing styles were needed. During the Edwardian era, women wore a very tight corset , or bodice , and dressed in long skirts. The Edwardian era was the last time women wore corsets in everyday life. According to Arthur Marwick , the most striking change of all the developments that occurred during the Great War was the modification in women's dress, "for, however far politicians were to put the clocks back in other steeples in the years after the war, no one ever put the lost inches back on the hems of women's skirts". [10]

Contemporary Influences & References

TitanicArts and Books: D.H. Lawrence, Beatrix Potter, Music Halls were popular entertainmentCharles Rennie Mackintosh, Art Nouveau

Era Edwardian, 1901-1910 ( + Art Nouveau)

InterWar, 1918-1939 (+ Art Deco)Social & Cultural

This period of history was marked by turmoil as Europe struggled to recover from the devastation of the First World War and destabilizing effects of the loss of a number of monarchies, including those of the German, Austro-Hungarian, Russian and Ottoman empires. Later a period of considerable prosperity (the Roaring Twenties) followed, but this changed dramatically with the onset of the Great Depression in 1929. It was during this time that the Weimar Republic in Germany gave way to two episodes of political and economic turmoil, the first culminated in the German hyperinflation of 1923 and the failed Beer Hall Putsch of that same year. The second convulsion, brought on by the worldwide depression, resulted in the rise of Nazism. In Asia, Japan became an ever more assertive power, especially with regard to China.

o Industrialisation and rise of large citieso Architecture saw the rise of skyscrapers – especially in East American cities like Chicago and New Yorko Cruise ships became fashionable as leisureo Art Deco – a design movement using geometric shapes and lots of silver and gold and metal – partly inspired by architecture - appeared in France after

WW1o Eclectic style – combined traditional craft techniques like polished wood, highly ornate silver and gold and pearl and lacquer and enamel in jewellery and

product designo Influenced by the Orient –Japan and China – as well as Africa and Ancient Egypt.o 1918 and 1928 Representation of the People’s Act means women are given the right to vote

.Aesthetics & Manufacture Rich colours

Bold geometric shapesLavish ornamentationUse of metals and polished surfacesShapeless dresses that had a shorter hemline and sometimes backless or very low at the neckline, bodice or backStrappy and with geometric pattern or folds, fringing and embellishment with glass beads making them quite heavy although shorter lengths meant not as heavy as longer gowns.

Contemporary Influences & References

Films and Arts: The Aviator, Citizen Kane, Coco Before Chanel, Downton Abbey, Frida, The Great Gatsby, Chicago, the rise of Jazz Music and Big Band

Era InterWar, 1918-1939 (+ Art Deco)

Era 1940s (Wartime and Post-War) A.MSocial & Cultural Most of world war two took place in the first half of the decade. This had a profound effect on most countries. The consequences of the war stayed well into the second half of the

decade. Europe was divided between the western world and the soviet union leading to the beginning of the cold war.The decade also witnessed the beginning of new technologies such as early computers, nuclear power and jet propulsion.Most developed in tandem with the war effort then later developed and improved upon in post war time.

.Aesthetics & Manufacture

Bright coloursKnee length skirts Floral printsWomen’s trousers/jumpsuits PlaidMilitary dresses Dark greens/blues

Fabric was rationed throughout 1940s even after the end of World War II

Contemporary Influences

& ReferencesFilm: Saving Private Ryan, Captain America, The Boy In The Stripped Pyjamas, Pearl Harbour, The Godfather, Schindler’s List

Music: Big Band, Early Jazz Music.

Era 1940s (Wartime and PostWar)

Era 1950s (Including The New Look) CC/SHSocial & Cultural Post war booms

Moving to the suburbs Civil Rights Movement The Cold War Shaping the 60s Birth control pill trials begin Women received a degree of Independence and were entering the workplace First atomic submarine launched The era of ‘The Teenager’ and Rock n Roll music

.Aesthetics & Manufacture

Colour TV introducedFridges, toasters, mixers and cookers entered the household

Contemporary

Influences & References

Book: The Catcher in the Rye, Charlotte’s Web, Lord of the Flies, Fahrenheit 451.

Films: Rear Window, On The Water Front, The Day The Earth Stood Still, All About Eve.

Music: Classic Pop, The birth of Rock and Roll, Bluegrass, Country, Roots Revivals

Art: Abstract Expressionism

Era 1950s (Including The New Look)

Era 1960s (Modernism, Swinging Sixties, Futuristic, Hippy, Boho, Psychedelic, Mod)Social & Cultural Women’s rights - In the late 1960s, many Australian women began to question the restrictive roles that society had assigned to them. Many women felt that there was more to life than raising children

and taking care of the home. Others were dissatisfied at being confined to traditionally 'female' occupations like teaching, administration and secretarial work.

The 60’s Hippie revolution- Towards the end of the decade, many adopted an alternative 'hippie' lifestyle. Among other elements, the hippie movement included a rebellious style of dress, a reverence for nature, Eastern spiritual philosophy and experimentation with drugs like marijuana and LSD.

The Vietnam War- War broke out between communist North Vietnam and democratic South Vietnam in 1959. America and her allies, including Australia, sent thousands of troops to Vietnam in an effort to stop the spread of Communism. In total, around 50 000 Australians served in the conflict between 1965 and 1972. Many of them were conscripted, which means their military service was compulsory.

Music and Radio- Commercial radio play lists were dominated by mostly imported American and British music throughout the 1960s, quenching the teenage thirst for rock 'n' roll. The public's taste was changing, though and 1950s rock 'n' roll stars like Elvis Presley made way for the 'British Invasion'. Teenagers were infatuated with British acts like The Beatles, The Rolling Stones and The Kinks and adopted the wild fashions and hairstyles of their idols.

Food and Shopping - Prior to the 1960s, traditional British meals, such as roast dinners, chops or sausages and vegetables, were the typical dinner for most Australians. Breakfast usually consisted of porridge, toast, eggs, or simple cereals like cornflakes. Food was usually purchased from specialist vendors - bread from a baker, vegetables from a greengrocer, meat from a butcher and other staple items like sugar and flour from a local corner store. By the 1960s, new American-inspired shopping centres and supermarkets had become common, particularly in the newly-built suburbs. These contained a number of shopping facilities under one roof and markedly changed Australian shopping habits. In the 1960s, American-style, convenient, pre-prepared foods like frozen French fries, and entire frozen dinners became available. These foods were particularly attractive to time-poor women who had recently joined the paid workforce, but were still responsible for the preparation of family meals

The Vietnam War- War broke out between communist North Vietnam and democratic South Vietnam in 1959. America and her allies, including Australia, sent thousands of troops to Vietnam in an effort to stop the spread of Communism. In total, around 50 000 Australians served in the conflict between 1965 and 1972. Many of them were conscripted, which means their military service was compulsory. Australians became divided over the issue of conscription and whether or not Australia should be involved in the war. Towards the end of the decade, thousands of people demonstrated against the government and some protests became violent

Aesthetics & Manufacture The Early 60s Silhouette – 1962

1960s Fashion History can be traced very accurately by looking at old sewing patterns. These illustrations were some I had torn from an old sewing pattern book, decades ago and kept as reference. 1962 was scribbled on the original pages and they are so typical of early 1960s clothes. Slim line sheath, Empire line dresses, over blouse styles of the early 1960s. Jewellery brooches and decorative buttons were used to highlight the elegance of a dress or jacket. Dresses were worn with contrast edge to edge duster coats. Semi fitted dresses with wide set necklines were a feature of 1960s clothes, as were two piece outfits of over blouse and skirts of several styles, including pleated skirts on a hip Basque. The over blouses were often straight, but could also be similar to fitted scoop neck shell tops of the 1990s. Princess seam lined clothes gradually introduced more volume into skirts without gathering at the waist. Often they were teamed with empire line short bolero jackets. Note the little brooches, clutch bags, hats and gloves. Hairstyles were still full, but sleeker, with flick ups a new feature that with variations remained in fashion for many years. Popular coat styles included loose duster and swagger coats. Later Princess line coats were just as popular. When focus was away from the waist it was often on the bust line as an empire bodice seam or a seamed yoke line.

Mary Quant and the Mini SkirtBy 1966 Mary Quant was producing short waist skimming mini dresses and skirts that were set 6 or 7 inches above the knee. It would not be right to suggest she invented the fashion mini skirt. In 1965 she took the idea from the 1964 designs by Courrèges and liking the shorter styles she made them even shorter for her boutique Bazaar. She is rightly credited with making popular a style that had not taken off when it made its earlier debut.Plastics became popular in manufacturing and this made it’s way into home design and jewellery design.

Contemporary

Influences & References

Contemporary influences and references - One of the most significant decades in 20th-century art, the 1960s saw the rise of Pop Art, Op Art, Minimalism, Conceptual Art, Performance Art, and Feminist Art, among countless other styles and movements. Among the leading artists of the period—many of whom continue to influence contemporary artists today—are Andy Warhol, Riley, Donald, Robert Morris, Sol LeWitt, Vito Acconci, and Judy Chicago. A contemporary influence of this time was a woman called Bridget Riley, She is now 84 years old and is an influence of many young artists. Her work consists of lots of patterned work, in Black and white but also in bright colours which would remind you of the ‘hippy’ period. The periods that she worked through were hard-edge painting, modern art and OP art.

The TV series Mad Men shows a comprehensive look at the 1960s political, social and aesthetic changes.

Era 1960s (Modernism, Swinging Sixties, Futuristic, Hippy, Boho, Psychedelic, Mod)

Era 1970s (Glam Rock, Punk, Ska, Disco)

Social & Cultural o Vietnam war

o Margaret thatcher rise to powero Some coal mines closedo Whole nation celebrated the queens jubileeo Social unrest due to industry starting to decline and youth unemployment

Aesthetics & Manufacture o VHS video recorder went on sale

o Sony sell Walkman stereoo Mobile phones were created

Contemporary

Influences & References

o David Bowieo The Doorso The Beatleso Queeno Disco Fashiono Hippie Fashiono Punko Skao Punko Fred Perryo Flowy clotheso Weird Patternso Blondie

Era 1970s (Glam Rock, Punk, Ska, Disco)

Era 1980s (Goth, Metal, Hip Hop, New Romantics)Social & Cultural

The economy boomIncreasing use of credit cardsDesigner labels gained recognitionMargaret Thatcher came into powerHeavy industry across Britain and manual labour – especially mining – became under threat under the Conservative government which led to both union strikes, protests and mass unemploymentIn Europe the Berlin wall came down paving way for liberation in GermanyThe gap between the rich and poor in the country became very obvious.

Aesthetics & Manufacture In the 1980s, people seemed to live longer and act younger at the same time. Goth, metal, hip-hop and new romatics

became popular and more recognised.

New Romantics was a trend set by people that wanted to draw attention to themselves without wearing punk clothes– they were more formal and drew on inspiration from older periods in time where clothes had lots of frills such as Georgian or Victorian times. They wore these clothes to nightclubs and bars.

Colours such as brown, orange and tan were worn in the 1980’. This fashion era was similar to the late 1970’s until the mid-1980’s where bright colours started becoming in fashion especially in accessories.

Teased hair and bold makeup was also included in the style. Pop music star Cyndi Lauper edged in a totally different style in the mid 1980’s and that style is what people remember the 1980’s by.

By the late 80s, Nike had grown into one of the most profitable clothing companies in the world.  Society’s love for brand was epitomized by its inexplicable love for wearing Coca-Cola brand clothing in 1987. This era was also remembered for ‘power dressing’ where suits were required for the work place and for both men and women these included jackets that emphasised the shoulders with shoulder pads/tailoring and nipped in waists to create a ‘powerful’ silhouette.

In Architecture a lot of concrete was being used to create high rise flats and buildings for housing leading to a grey/uniform look for homes - especially in areas of poverty. In Design and Architecture, the Memphis Design Group including Ettore Sotsass began to define the era as ‘experimental’ with the use of bright primary colours and black/white. The bold shapes/colours and celebration of wealth and industrial growth seen in Art Deco is reflected in some of the styles popular in the 80s.

Contemporary Influences & References

Adventure, Sci-Fi and Horror Films were popular as special effects were developed through new technology. Films of the 1980s include Terminator, Raiders of the Lost Ark, The Empire Strikes Back , E.T, Aliens, Blade Runner. Desperately Seeking Susan starred Madonna at the height of her popularity and The Breakfast Club and Ferris Bueller’s Day Off were classic 1980s style films.

Stephen King books and films were popular and Comic Book genre and Road Dahl books were popular with children and young people (Matilda, The Witches, BFG etc)

Metal and rock bands had more of a mass popularity and were part of pop music more as stadium concerts and tours became common.Electronic music such as Kraftwerk, Daft Punk, New Order and pop acts like Depeche Mode and Eurythmics set the scene for the dominance of electronic music.

Era 1980s (Goth, Metal, Hip Hop, New Romantics)

Era 1990s (Dance, Rap, Rave, ‘MadChester’/Indie, Grunge)

Social & CulturalAmerican culture is very influential to young people with the MTV generation as we became obsessed with music videos – this then had a massive impact on fashion and image.Main genres were:Grunge music that was a brand of rock that came out of SeattleDance/Rave music that involved ‘underground’ dance parties and festivalsHip/hop culture in America became popular worldwide‘Madchester’ and indie music that came out of Manchester and was led by Stone Roses, Happy Mondays etc.Later on in the 1990s Brit Pop became a genre of pop-based indie music that made indie music more mainstream by the likes of Oasis and BlurThis was also the era that established reality TV and talent shows that created boy/girl bands etc.The 90s was the era of The Supermodel when models like Naomi Campbell were in a group of elite, almost ‘super-human’ celebrity models.The 90s was a big era for high fashion and people started to crave ‘designer brands’.Kate Moss was ‘discovered’ in the UK and this turned the spotlight on the fashion industry who started to become criticised for creating the ‘waif’ model who was seen as an unhealthy role model as too thin.

Aesthetics & Manufacture

Rise of the mobile phone as an accessory for everyoneRise of very fast changing technology in music and audio, such as walkmans to mp3 players, records and tapes to CDs, videos to DVDs, video cameras and home movies becoming popular and a very rapid increase in home computer use and the obsession with technology this generated.A rise in technology created a different type of jobs market and online technology and telesales became a major industry.Meanwhile the rise in technology also began to create an era where people began to imagine a future in terms of technology and robotics adopting the roles and duties of humans. This had a negative impact on an older generation in and out of the workplace as well as the positive benefits it introduced.The public became more interested in both international charities and fundraising as well as environmental concerns as global warming started to be discussed.

Contemporary Influences & References TV/Film: American MTV shows and long-running shows such as Friends became popular in UK

This is England, My Mad Fat Diary etc are contemporary programmes today that reference the music and fashion of the era.

Era 1990s (Dance, Rap, Rave, ‘MadChester’/Indie, Grunge)

Era Contemporary 21st Century/2000s

More sporty/street look that has become smarter as the 2000s progressedborrowing from anything from Victorian fashion (corsets, burlesque and cabaret) which fits into sub cultures such as Steam Punk to 1920s and 1930s elegance in flapper dresses,Mainly borrowing from 40s-60s fashions seen in peplum, pencil and full poodle skirts, tea dresses and blouses as well as incorporating these into sub cultures like rockabilly and in general ‘vintage’80s and 90s styles also incorporated into young street fashion such as neon, Aztec prints, skinny jeans, denim washes and over-sized slouch tshirt and some punk and dance styles borrowed and adapted.