fashion, sports and athleisure · 2019-04-18 · 2nd report 2017: athleisure, the merge between...

Fashion, Sports and Athleisure

June 2017

In collaboration with

1

Overview

Fashionbi, in collaboration with Intesa Sanpaolo Innovation Center has identified and analyzed Five main trends

in 2017 that are going to grow bigger this and in the next years, and can revolutionize the way global of Fashion

& Luxury industry functions.

These five main trends are:

Green & Circular Fashion;

Sports & Athleisure;

Omni-Marketing & Instant Fashion;

Customization & Personalization;

Millennial Influencers & Customers.

In 2017 Fashionbi is going to realize 3 reports: through each report, Fashionbi further analyzes the

main chosen trend, in depth, bringing a big focus on the topic relevancy in Fashion, its market growth and

contribution in the fashion economy, its implementation by the brands and the companies and various

supporting technological factors associated with the same.


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Overview

The 3 Reports in pipeline are:

1st Report 2017: Eco-Fashion with a special focus on circular economy and sustainable

products and materials.

2nd Report 2017: Athleisure, the merge between activewear market and fashion, with a

special focus on innovative technologies, sustainability and millennial influencers as a part

of the athleisure trend.

3rd Report 2017: Omni-Marketing. The approach that evolving with on going digital and

technology integration and include such trends as social media monetization and

gamification marketing.

In any of the 3 reports the will be a Service Design point of view realized by Experientia describing

how service design can help fashion brands improve customer interaction.


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INDEX

1 Five Major Trends in Fashion

2 Evolution of the Athleisure Market Trend

3 Shift from the Professional Sport towards Athleisure

4 New Activewear Players with Special Focus on Sustainability

5 Activewear Collections by the Fashion Brands

6 Expansion of the E-tailers into Sports Market Segment

7 Innovative Technologies for Sport

8 Experience Design point of View


GREEN & CIRCULAR

FASHION

FASHION, SPORT

& ATHLEISURE

OMNI-MARKETING

& INSTANT FASHION

CUSTOMIZATION &

PERSONALIZATIONMILLENNIAL INFLUENCERS

& CUSTOMERS

Five Major Global Trends in Fashion, 2017 4

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YuSXCAE2-58


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1. Green & Circular Fashion

Major Global Trends In Fashion

On 25th September 2015, the United Nations

formulated 17 Sustainable Development

Goals (SDGs) which aim to transform our

world. Over the next fifteen years, all countries

should mobilize efforts to end all forms of

poverty, fight inequalities and tackle climate

change.

Fashion industry, especially the clothing

production, is the second largest polluter

in the world, behind only oil. And this is why,

as a sector, it has an even bigger responsibility

in front of its customers and the society as a

whole. Today, it is important more than ever to

join the movement towards the sustainable

fashion from both sides: production and

consumption.


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Scenarios for 2025 by Forum for the Future

Slow is beautiful. A world of political collaboration and global trade where slow and sustainable is fashionable

Community couture. Where high-tech systems deliver for the speed-obsessed global shopper

Techno-chic. Where resource crisis constraints consumption in a world focused on local communities

Patchwork planet. A world of fast consumption in global cultural blocs.


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During the past few years, there appeared several organizations which have a common mission to help

organizations across the globe find ways to create a sustainable future.

Sustainable Apparel Coalition was born thanks to the joint forces between Patagonia and Walmart, and many

other brands joined later such as Esprit, Gap, H&M, JC Penney, New Balance, Nike, Nordstrom.

Forum for the Future organisation did the projects with such retailers as Marks & Spencer and Levi Strauss&Co.

Sustainable Fashion Academy amongst the clients has such brands as Asics, Asos, COS, Filippa K, & Other

Stories, Oysho and many others.

There are also organizations which are focused on the labour conditions, e.g. Fair Wear Foundation where

amongst its members we can find such fashion labels as Acne Studios, Claudia Sträter and many others.


8



The global apparel market currently standing at $1.4 Tn accounts

for 2% of world’s GDP.

China remains the largest exporter of textile throughout the world with

exports worth $286.8 Bln in 2015. Close after is India, Italy, Turkey

and Bangladesh. These top 5 largest exporters therefore are

supplying up to 54.4% of the total apparel trade worldwide.

Speaking of Europe, in terms of Domestic market value of fashion,

UK ($94.1 Bln), followed by Germany ($83.6 Bln) and France ($43.3

Bln) are the most prominent countries with the most number of

employees involved in the fashion sector (350’000 people on an

average). In USA, this value is far ahead with 1.8 Mln people

employed in the business.

Global Fashion Industry Size

Source: Eurostat, Bureau of Labour, 2015

Womenswear

$621 Bln

Menswear

$402 Bln

Kidswear

$339.4 Bln

Bridalwear

$57 Bln


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2. Fashion, Sports and Athleisure


Thanks to the rising awareness and

consciousness toward health and well-being

globally, and increasing active sports

participation rates, the global Sportswear

market is estimated to grow at a rate of

5.3% through 2016 to 2020. North America,

followed by Asia are estimated to be the

largest market for sportswear business in the

future.

The US-based sportswear and lifestyle giant,

Nike Inc. is presently the largest company in

the market with $32.4 Bln in revenues in

2016, $19.9 Bln are coming from

Footwear.

47.3%

23.8%

22.6%

19.8%

14.0%

9.0%

8.6%

8.2%

7.3%

6.1%

Nike

Adidas

New

Balance

Skechers

Converse

Under

Armour

ASICS

Puma

Timberland

FILA

Most Desired Brands for Sneaker in USA

Source: Statista, 2016


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Fashion Touch is

important when it

comes to the

functional wear

An interesting fact to note here is that in the past, an

average sports retailer would sell basic t-shirts and

trainers - those were enough to keep the sport conscious

public satisfied with the functionality of them.

However, today, with the ever-so-fashion-conscious

generation of Instagram millennials and the impact of the

fashion It-girls phenomena, certainly a fashion touch is

needed. Similarly, the solely fashion clients of the past now

require some functional element in their fashion outfits to

take to streets and stay within the trend of casual dress

codes.


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Sneakers have become a big trend. It can be seen not only in the tennis courts today but also the streets, fashion shows and

even on the red carpets. While this product smoothly integrated with mass-market brand’s DNA, it was a rather unexpected

but equally appealing phenomena, when sneakers were seen in the advertising and shelves of the premium luxury brands.

Today, Chanel, Gucci or Valentino sneakers have become an epitome of high fashion and can be seen everywhere

in brand communications as well as in user desirability expressions.

There are currently three times as many sneakers on the market as there are skinny jeans.

Dior Dolce&Gabbana Chanel Gucci Valentino


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Being healthy and sporty has become the new sexy. It is

not by chance that activewear has become an integral

part of fashion brands lifestyles.

And, as the sportswear items have gradually appeared

in high fashion, the sportswear brands themselves

have moved in the direction of increasing the

fashion content in their product offer.

In order to attract the trend-aware shoppers, the

activewear brands have started collaborating with

celebrities, other brands, and the designers of the

zeitgeist, and as a result, the sportswear is not strictly

worn for fitness purposes only anymore.

$190 Bln $270 Bln

$353 Bln

2009 2016 2020

Global Sports Apparel and Footwear Revenue

Source: Morgan Stanley, 2016


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Many sport brands today like Reebok and Puma are going

for supermodels and social media influencers such as

Gigi Hadid and Kylie Jenner as the ambassadors for

their brand, instead of the usual muscular athletes.

On the other hand, many cross-collaborations are

happening as well where both the brands can benefit

with the diverse audience of each other. Some of them

are: Alexander Wang x Adidas, Jason Wu x FILA, Derek

Lam x Athlete and many more.

All this has given rise to a new industry of Athleisure wear.Gigi Hadid for Reebok

Kylie Jenner for Puma


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3. Omni-Marketing & Instant Fashion


Even though Omnichannel is a must in any industry today,

especially fashion - in order to offer the customers a unified

and seamless brand experience, still only 45% of retailers

cited omni-channel efforts as a top priority for their.

According to CMO Club, 55% of companies have no

cross-channel strategy in place.

Omnichannel is synonym with what we call today as “instant

fashion”. It is nothing but a phenomena where the approach

is customer-centric, making a company’s products or

services easily identifiable and readily available on any

platform and in any way the customer prefers to shop.

Source: Forrester Research, 2016


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Companies with strong omnichannel customer engagement strategies on an average retain 89% of their

customers vs. to 33% for those with weaker strategies

72% of the digital shoppers consider in-store experience as the most important channel in their purchase

Shoppers who buy from a brand both in-store and online have a 30% higher lifetime value than those who

shop using just one channel

70% of US online shoppers said they have used buy online, pickup in stores service, however, only 57% of

the global brands are able to offer this service worldwide

Apparel was just behind consumer electronics in terms of being the top omnichannel shopping product

Source: EMarketeer.com, ThinkWithGoogle.com 2016


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Customer today is active on various channels with the

same brand simultaneously (e.g. with smartphone to get

more information while feeling products in-store), hence, it is

a brand’s primary duty to make the messages a customer is

receiving instant, consistent and helpful. This is what can

ultimately lead them to the “Buy Now” button or the checkout

counter.

Whether they’re in a store, on their phone, on a home

computer or at a digital kiosk they’ll have the same

consistent experience, including easy access to product

information and the purchase process.

ChargeItSpok kiosk at Neiman Marcus store, US


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Smartphones

now influence

more than

28% of US

retail sales

Smartphones are highly influencing the omnichannel experience. 53%

of the shoppers confirm to Mintel that convenience and instancy are the

two major factors they consider before making a purchase. And hence,

smartphones have become more integral than ever both for the

consumers as well as the retailers in order to buy-sell the products and

services.

About 71% of the shoppers confirm the smartphone as their most

important tool in doing research about a product or a retailer.

Studies claim that the opportunity cost of not being omnichannel is a

10% drop in revenue, together with a weak customer experience.

Hence being it not just a ‘nice-to-have, but a must-have in today’s eco

system.Source: EMarketeer.com, ThinkWithGoogle.com 2016


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4. Customization & Personalization


Customer has a big say today in how he wants to be

fashioned. In fact there is a new movement called

Crowdsourced Design where the companies,

designers, and consumers all work together to

collectively curate designs that eventually make it to

the finished product stage. However, it is a very new

trend and mostly applicable to small-scale businesses for

now.

It was the mass market sportswear brands like Nike and

Converse in early 2000s who were the firsts to put the

customization service in mass level via e-commerce. The

luxury brands like Chanel and Valentino, on the other hand,

were born with the Haute Couture and bespoke tailoring

services in ateliers.

Levi’s has launched its made-to-order store in New York in 2012


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Besides the premium and luxury brands which offer the customized goods or monogramming services, more

accessible brands also entered the customization trend and provide the unique possibility to create “my”

product. Today, the new meaning of Luxury is making a customer feel connected to the brand and integrating him

with the entire experience, which is why the process of mass customization came in.

“My Coccinelle” bag by Coccinelle“My Play Furla” by Furla


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If the customizable handbag is not a

novelty, the customizable 'non-haute

couture' apparel for an accessible price is

still rare.

One of the examples of such business

model is a Tailor Italy. On the brand's

online store it is possible to create and

shop personalized pieces, that are 100%

Made in Italy.

This startup was accelerated by Intesa

Sanpaolo StartUp Initiative program and

was acquired by Miroglio Group in 2016.

Tailor Italy, www.tailoritaly.com


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According to our analysis of the customization options offered by the fashion brands, schematically,

they can be divided into these three main levels:

Monogramming

Is the most basic service, where the

customer’s initials can be added to the

products to differentiate them.

Partial Customization

Happens where customer can change

some elements of the products, mixing

and matching as they please however,

the customers are limited in their fantasy.

Full Customization

A customer can create a one-of-a-kind

product by changing all of its elements,

the final ready product is 100% ‘for the

customer and by the customer’.

Burberry monogramming service

for scarves, perfume and bags

Strap You by Fendi that allows to

personalize your bag with the strap

Ray-Ban, Shoes Of Prey, My Swear



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Customized shopping doesn't always mean the special edition of the product, it is also about the experience.

The most welcome in-store retailer communications and offerings include automatic discounts at checkout for loyalty

points or coupons (82%) and real-time promotions (57%)

Millennials are more likely than Baby Boomers to look for advice on in-store purchases. 45% like the idea of a

personal shopper who can pull items according to the customer’s style, fit or wardrobe, versus 28% of Baby Boomers.

Baby Boomers are more demanding than Millennials when it comes to receiving benefits in exchange for their

data. 74% expect to get automatic crediting for coupons and loyalty points, and 70% expect special offers for items they are

interested in, versus 58% and 61% of Millennials, respectively

Source:Accenture Personalization Survey 2015, US


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5. Millennial Influencers & Customers


Long gone is the era when just a handful of names like

Naomi Campbell, Cindy Crawford and Linda Evangelista

were ruling the catwalk. Today is the era of millennial

supermodels and they have virtually become the decision

makers for the fashion and luxury brands.

These new role models are famous and ‘wanted’ thanks

either to their celebrity relatives or to their millions of

Instagram following. Any which way, these influencers know

their audience, can relate to them and impact their

perception and purchase behaviour toward a certain brand.

Currently Kendall Jenner, Bella Hadid and Gigi Hadid

are the most super influential models who are the dream

and desire of every designer, every brand and every

consumer in fashion today.

Kendall & Gigi for Balmain x H&M Kendall, Bella & Gigi for Chanel

Kendall & Gigi for Marc Jacobs FS Kendall & Gigi for Victoria’s Secret


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Many of these millennials influencers are under

the spotlight since the day one of their lives

thanks their parents. Today, these young boys and

girls are just starting their professional lives but can

show pride in already becoming the faces of the top

fashion brands

But, as said earlier, it is not necessary to have celebrity

parents to be at this level. The social media star

Cameron Dallas has an army of fans thanks to his

comic 6 seconds videos on Vine. Vine itself is

transforming to another business model, while

Cameron Dallas is monetizing on his popularity.

Cameron Dallas for Calvin Klein Cameron Dallas, Gabriel-Kane Day-Lewis, Presley Gerber, Brandon

Thomas Lee, Rafferty Law and Luka Sabbat for Dolce&Gabbana

Hailey Baldwin for Stradivarius

Kaia Gerber

for Miu Miu

Jaden Smith for Louis Vuitton

Alain-Fabien Delon

for Dior

Lily-Rose Depp for Chanel

Zoe Kravitz for

Alexander Wang


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The millennials don’t necessarily act as the spokesperson for

the brand always, they can also be behind-the-scenes and

associated in, for example, a creative process for the brand.

However, any such association is also just enough to break the

internet.

Such was the case for Burberry when it decided to bag

Brooklyn Beckham to shoot their fragrance ad campaign

“This is Brit”. While some media and photographers were a

bit critical of this choice accusing Burberry of taking

Brooklyn for his surname rather than photography skills, the

social media fans only had appreciation for such a unique

angle.

P.S. In January 2017 Burberry released its beauty campaign with Iris Law.


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FASHION, SPORTS AND ATHLEISURE


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Development of the Athleisure Trend


Sportswear from 1960s to 2017

Athleisure is a fashion trend that intends to “marry”

comfort, functionality and aesthetic of active-wear

with desirability of catwalk trends.

The popularity of the trend can be explained by the rise of

consumers’ focus on health and wellness.

The term ’athleisure’ was officially included in the 2016

version of the Merriam-Webster’s dictionary as ‘casual

clothing designed to be worn both for exercising and for

general use’.


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1960s First tracksuit produced by Adidas

1970s Athleisure term first mentioned in a shoe advertising

1980s Rise of disco and aerobics. Legging trend – comfortable, practical and easy to match

1990s Musicians became style icons. Pop and hip-hop singers were the first to wear sports apparel in a daily life

2000s Rise of Juicy Couture tracksuits. The New York Times: ‘low performance clothing – athleisure”

2010s Wellness trends. Brand collaborations and sophisticated appearance on the catwalk


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HEALTH

AS

WEALTH



New generation of the customers seek an

active lifestyle, today being sporty is in

fashion, hence, the brands are trying to meet the

consumers' demand by creating new products and

enhancing a new experience.

As the result you can go to the mountains with

Chanel skis or attend Body Studio by the

Selfridges store.


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Athleisure is a unisex trend, however the emphasis lies on women as the main target audience.

Athleisure covers all product categories, from

tank tops to leggings and tracksuits but the

particular attention is drawn to sneakers, which

designed to be worn for exercising, streetwear or

daywear.


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Sportswear Market Data


In 2015 the overall spendings on the sportswear estimated as $281.9 BLN.

$102 North America $58.1 Western Europe$25.2 China$24.9 Latin America

$15.3 Eastern Europe$16.8 MEA

Source: Societe Generale Private Banking, 2016

20.6%

36.2%

8.9%

8.8%

5.4%

5.9%


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Sportswear Market Data


Source: Societe Generale Private Banking, 2016

The sportswear market is still a

predominantly male industry. The

manufacturers are still discovering the

women’s segment, which has shown strong

growth during the past seasons. The experts

tend to believe that women’s sportswear

to become a key growth engine.

The dressing-down trend where more formal

wear is being replaced by casual wear, even

in the business environment, influence on the

acceptance of the athleisure style, hence

continue to propel sales going forward.

Sportswear market division

man

~52%woman

~35%children

~13%


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Fashion Market Data


In 2016, athletic wear was

growing at 8.0-8.5 percent

more than twice as fast as

any other category.

More active lifestyle of the

modern consumers and the

entrance of the premium

and luxury brands in the

activewear market segment

will influence on the further

growth of the sales of the

athletic wear.

Fashion Industry Sales Growth by Category 2015-2016 (%)

Clothing

Footwear

Athletic wear

Bags and luggage

Watches and jewellery

Other accessories

Source: McKinsey & Boff Report, 2016


34

Fashion Market Data


Global Sportswear Absolute Value Growth and % CAGR 2016/2021 by Category

The global apparel footwear market is worth $1.7 Tn and the global sportswear is $282 Bln, hence one in

every six dollars we spent globally on apparel and footwear we spend on sportswear. And

according to the Euromonitor International the performance athleisure will outstrip sports-inspired apparel

growth.

Source: Euromonitor International, 2017

0K 4K 16K12K8K

0.0% 1.5% 6.0%4.5%3.0%

% CAGR 2016/2021Absolute growth


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Athleisure Market Trend


Main reasons behind the athleisure market growth:

Shift from the professional sport towards athleisure by the main market players (e.g. Nike,

Adidas, Puma, Reebok, Under Armour)

New activewear players with the special focus on well-being and sustainability

Launch of the sportswear collections by the fast fashion brands (e.g. Zara, H&M, Mango)

Special capsule collections and collaborations by the bridge and premium fashion brands

Influence of the music culture on fashion and sportswear

Expansion of the e-tailers business into sportswear segment

Innovative technologies in sportswear market


36

SHIFT FROM THE PROFESSIONAL

SPORT TOWARDS ATHLEISURE


37

From Professional Sport towards Athelisure, NIKE


56% of Nike’s sales are coming from men’s

products, but the fastest growing category

is women’s segment, which increased from

$4,976 Mln in 2014 to $6,296 Mln in 2016.

Recently Nike started to rely on the female

celebrities. In 2015 the singer Ellie Goulding

became the face of the new collection, in

2016 Bella Hadid participated in #NYMade

campaign and in 2017 Alicia Keys became

part of the new “Equality” campaign.

NIKE Net Sales, Mln USD

2014 201220162017 2015


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Sustainable Innovation by NIKE


Sustainable innovation is a mindset of

Nike – helping the company to maximize

style and performance, while minimizing

environmental impact.

As the result, increase in revenues in

2016 was primarily fueled by

innovative performance and

sportswear products, including

Flyknit.

Flyknit was introduced to the market in

2012, The use of knitted fabrics has

helped to reduce waste by millions of

pounds since 2012.

Nike Flyknit


39

Sustainable Innovation by NIKE


Besides making most of its products

from its own garbage Nike also

collaborated with Arthur Huang, the

CEO and founder of Taiwanese firm

Miniwiz, to develop new sustainable

packaging for the shoes.

The new packaging box is made

entirely of post-consumer

materials such as milk and juice

containers, and coffee lids.

The package can also be used as a

backpack.

New packaging by Nike


40

Circular Economy by NIKE


NIKE Grind materials have been incorporated into more than 1 Blnsquare

feet of sports surfaces, such as running tracks, soccer and American football

fields, gym room floors, and playground surfaces.

TODAY, NIKE GRIND

MATERIALS ARE USED IN

71% OF NIKE FOOTWEAR

AND APPAREL PRODUCTS

Since 1990, NIKE’s Reuse-A-

Shoe program has collected and

recycled more than 30 Mln pairs

of used shoes.

NIKE designers have access

to a palette of more than 29

high-performance materials

made from the factory scrap

NIKE has transformed more than

3 Bln plastic bottles into recycled

polyester for use in footwear and

apparel from 2012 through May

2016

NIKE Grind is a premium materials

palette born from a regeneration

process of original materials and

products. NIKE is redirecting millions

of pounds of manufacturing scrap and

old shoes into new uses. Waste

streams – including rubber, foam and

textile scrap – are transformed into

new, premium materials.

NIKE Grind delivers on NIKE’s

expectation that materials and

products will perform beyond a single

use, living on from one product to the

next.


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From Professional Sport towards Athelisure, ADIDAS


The long-term commitment of the Adidas

towards women’s business continues to be a

focus for the company. By the women’s

business company imply athlete’s performance

and non-performance needs through the life

activity. No surprise that amongst the latest

ambassadors we can see such ‘non-athletes’

ladies as Selena Gomez, Kate Moss, and Karlie

Kloss. Adidas footwear sales grew 21% in 2016,

apparel revenues grew 7%.

ADIDAS Net Sales, Mln EUR

2016 2015 2014 20112017


42

Sustainable Innovation by ADIDAS


Adidas has been awarded a ‘Gold Class in

Corporate Sustainability Assessment (CSA).

Environmentally friendly innovative ideas and new

technologies are company’s strength and Adidas

has been using this in their creation of products,

e.g., avoiding oil-based plastic to reduce carbon

emissions, thinner or lighter materials, creating less

waste and less embodied carbon, dry-dyeing

clothes to save water, chemicals and energy.

In collaboration with Parley, Adidas launched

sports shoes made from recycled marine

waste. In apparel, Adidas produced a full running

line featuring t-shirts, tanks, tights, skirts and shorts

with 95% pattern efficiency (only 5% waste).

Adidas Parley shoes


43

Sustainable Innovation by ADIDAS


In November 2016 Adidas introduced

woven shoes from Biosteel fiber, a

material was developed by a German

biotech company, AMSilk. The material is

ultra strong, lightweight and 100%

naturally biodegradable, as the result the

new shoes can break down in 36 hours

with a help of special enzyme.

Adidas claims that the company is moving

beyond closed loop and into an infinite loop

– or even no loop at all, by pioneering

stride forward beyond sustainability into a

new territory of bionic innovation.

Adidas Futurecraft Biofabric


44

From Professional Sport towards Athelisure, UNDER ARMOUR


Ben Pruess, senior vice president of sportswear at Under

Armour said: “It is no secret that the fashion business

has come closer to the sport, and sport has come closer

to fashion”. And to support this claim in practice the

company launched Under Armour Sportswear in

partnership with designer Tim Coppens, the collection

was shown during the NY fashion week in September

2016. Similar to its competitors Under Armour also

relies on women’s target, in 2016 sales of women’s

producst reached $1 Bln.

UNDER ARMOUR Net Sales, mln USD

2016 2015 2014 2013 2012


45

Sustainable Innovation by UNDER ARMOUR


In 2016 Under Armour celebrated Earth

Day by unveiling a concept boot made

from 70% sustainable materials. The

outsole uses a bio-based injection that

is 99% renewable, laces made from

recyclable yarns, heel counter and

forefoot board made from a bamboo

composite.

In 2010 Company launched a project line

called UA Green in, products were made

from recycled plastic bottles creating

strands of fiber that are knitted together*.

*Currently the UA Green line is not on sale


46

From Professional Sport towards Athelisure, PUMA


Puma is very proud of its ambassadors like Cara

Delevingne, Kylie Jenner and Rihanna, these

celebrities have none or almost no connection to

sports, but are very influential in fashion field. In

2014 Rihanna was appointed as the creative

director of the fashion sportswear Puma

division. In 2016 women´s business saw the

launch of a series of successful styles: shoes,

apparel and accessories – both in collaboration

with Rihanna.

PUMA Net Sales, Mln EUR

2016 2015 2014 20122017


47

Sustainable Activities by PUMA


According to PUMA COO, Lars Sørensen,

sustainability and business need to go

hand in hand, therefore the company

from 2016 onwards have set a broad

range of new sustainability targets until

2020, ranging from Health and Safety to

Corporate Governance, and Human

Rights to eliminating Hazardous

Chemicals.

Lifecycle studies demonstrated that the

majority of the environmental impact

for Puma’s products occurs during the

raw material creation and processing

phases. Therefore the company set

targets for certifications of the main

materials, namely cotton, polyester,

leather as well as paper and cardboard.

Progress Against Material Targets

Division Material Targets% of total

volume 2015

% of total

volume 2016

Target

2016

Target

2020

Apparel

Cotton sourced

as BCI 0 19 20 50

Bluesign certified

Polyester 15 24 20 50

AccessoriesBluesign certified

Polyester 20 21 20 50

Footwear

LWG medal-rated leather

suppliers 99 94 90 90

Traceability LWG A&B

leather rating 20 18 20 tbd

FSC certified and/or

recycled paper and

cardboard85 78 80 90


48

From Professional Sport towards Athelisure, REEBOK


In October 2016 Gigi Hadid (style icon and

trendsetter) joined Reebok as the face of

#PerfectNever campaign. #PerfectNever

movement is a call to action that asks women

around the world to celebrate the beauty of

imperfection and champions Reebok’s message

of self-betterment. Reebok also partners with a

number of highly influential music artists

(rappers) such as Kendrick Lamar and Future.

REEBOK Net Sales, Mln EUR

2015 2014 20132016


49

Sustainable Innovation by REEBOK


In April 2017, Reebok presented a new

line of compostable footwear made of

cotton and corn. The plant-based

sneakers have the upper part made of

organic cotton and a base originating

from industrial-grown corn (a non-food

source).

Company’s goal is to present a broad

selection of bio-based footwear which

can be composted after use, instead of

ending up in a landfill. What is more, the

sneakers’ compost will serve as a part of

the soil to grow the materials for the next

range of shoes.


50

NEW ACTIVEWEAR PLAYERS WITH SPECIAL

FOCUS ON SUSTANABILITY


51

Sustainable Activewear

Fashion, Sports and AthleisureO

rgan

ic F

ibers

Green Apple Active

Sustainable active

wear clothes from the

certified organically

grown bamboo.

Pact

Clothes from the non-GMO

organic, responsible

manufacturing, and values-

based shopping.

Satva

Collaborates with socially,

environmentally conscious

organic cotton production

for the activewear clothes.


52


Fashion, Sports and AthleisureR

ec

yc

led

Po

lye

ste

r

RUMI X

Deliver simple everyday

performance apparel for

studio-to-street, made

from recycled plastic.

Yoga Democracy

Use recycled polyester and

recycled nylon to produce

activewear for yoga and

daily wear.

Cozy Orange

Produce clothing from

recycled polyester and keep

their production sustainable

and eco-friendly.


53


Fashion, Sports and AthleisureO

rgan

ic C

ott

on

&

Recycle

d P

oly

este

r

Threads 4 Thought

Full lifestyle brand that

is produced responsibly

& use organic cotton

and recycled polyester.

Manduka

Designed using premium

fabrics sourced primarily

from environmentally

responsible materials.

Prana

Clothing from recycled

polyester, organic

cotton and other

sustainable materials.


54


Fashion, Sports and AthleisureE

co

-Fri

en

dly

Mate

rials

Allbirds

Shoes made from ZQ-

certified merino wool,

which meets sustainable

farming standards.

Nau

Produce functional and

aesthetic clothes, while

setting higher social and

environmental standards.

NoMiNoU

Athleisure innovative eco

friendly brand, that creates

activewear, including yoga

and pilates clothes.


55

ACTIVEWEAR COLLECTIONS

BY THE FASHION BRANDS


56

Premium

and Luxury

brands

Bridge Fashion Brands

Mass Market and Fast Fashion Brands

Conditionally all the fashion brands can be

divided into 3 main groups: mass market,

bridge and premium. The main criteria for

this division is marketing strategy which

relies on price and distribution.

Despite the market segment the brands

are trying to enter activewear market by

launching new products to be in line

with the athleisure trend.

Activewear Collections by the Fashion Brands



57

Activewear Collections by the Fashion Brands


Premium

and Luxury

brands

Bridge Fashion Brands

Mass Market and Fast Fashion BrandsLaunch of the sportswear products can have different label

and promoted via special campaigns and ambassadors, e.g.

For Every Victory by H&M

The bridge brands rely on the ‘athleisure’ key word. The new

products go under the brand’s name, but separated from the

main collection, e.g. Pinko Athleisure or can be created together

with the sportswear companies

Premium Brands do not give any titles to the activewear products but

just include the ‘sport’ goods in main collections, e.g. D-Fence shoes

by Dior or launch special collaborations


58

ACTIVEWEAR COLLECTIONS BY THE FAST FASHION BRANDS


59

Activewear Collections by the Fast Fashion Brands


The first Start Moving collection for Fall Winter 2013-2014

Bershka was one of the first mass market brands to

propose a gym wear with its “Start Moving” campaign.

In 2015 the brand also collaborated with Reebok for

the special collection of sneakers, the official hashtag

of the campaign was #MYURBANGYM. The sneakers

called “City Maps” weigh only 200 grams, have a shock-

absorbing sole and was priced 59.99 euro

When: July 2013

What: Start Moving


60



Gymwear by Zara

Zara brand launched new category called “Gymwear”

which offers the customers trendy apparel for training -

Box, Run, Ballet. The face of Zara Sport campaign is

famous model Edie Campbell. In selected Zara stores,

sportswear apparel and accessories are organized in a

special area, separating them from casual wear

However, due to the fashionable twist of the Zara Gym

wear is often worn for its aesthetics and trendiness

rather than performance features.

When: March 2016

What: Gymwear


61



Active Sport Training

In April 2016 OVS launched the Active Sport Training

collection for men and women. The prices are ranged

between 10 and 30 euro, many pieces cost € 9.99 which

is the lowest price compared to the other fast fashion

brands.

OVS also propose sport collection for kids,

#ActiveForKids, which is basically the jersey jumpers, T-

shirts and trousers for girls and boys.

When: April 2016

What: Active Sport Training


62

H&M For Every Victory Campaign

In summer 2016 H&M celebrated the life changing power

of personal victories with the trendy and functional sports

collection For Every Victory.

The campaign was fronted by inspiring personalities

starring Caitlyn Jenner along with Chelsea Warner, a

gymnast with down syndrome, surfer Mike Coots who

lost his leg in a shark attack, boxer Namibia Flores

who defied gender roles.

When: July 2016

What: For Every Victory Campaign




63

Nautical Collection, 2017

Fila and Urban Outfitters first collaborated in the Fall

of 2015 for a retro inspired womenswear collection,

influenced by the 90s spirit of the sportswear brand.

In February 2017 was launched fourth collection

by FILA x UO, which has a nostalgic retro aesthetic,

taking mostly the visual characteristics of

sportswear instead of functional.

When: February 2017

What: Nautical Collection

Motocross Collection, 2016




64

Mango Sport, 2017

Mango doesn’t yell about its sport collections via

noticeable collaborations but does promote it on via

social media channels.

In March 2017 was introduced the gym collection for

the Spring Summer 2017 season, last summer the

brand was promoting its yoga line, asking the followers

to share their asana with the brand via special

hashtag, #MANGOYoga.

When: March 2017

What: Mango Sport




65

ACTIVEWEAR COLLECTIONS BY THE BRIDGE AND PREMIUM

FASHION BRANDS


66

Athleisure by the Bridge and Premium Fashion Brands


JASON WU

Jason Wu collaborated with Fila for 3 seasons

The first collection was presented at the fashion

show in Hong Kong at the end of 2015

In November 2016 the Spring Summer 2017

collection was presented on the catwalk in Beijing

Jason Wu x Fila collection is available in selected

countriesJason Wu x Fila Spring Summer 2016 collection


67

ALEXANDER WANG

During the NYFW Alexander Wang presented

the Adidas Originals unisex line

The capsule collection was sold in pop-up

trucks in New York, London and Tokyo, with big

crowds waiting in line

From April 2017 the collection by Alexander Wang

is available at both brands flagships, online and at

140 retail locations globallyNew York, September 2016




68

PRABAL GURUNG

The brand launched Prabal Gurung Sport

collection in collaboration with sport multi

brand retailer Bandier

Prabal himself explains that the collection is

for women off-duty, in her leisure time

The face of the collection is Hailey Baldwin, not

the athlete but the model and millennial

influencer, her uncle is Alec Baldwin




69

DEREK LAM

Till today Derek Lam and Athleta launched

four collections

Derek Lam’s VP of design underlined that they

took a tailored, sophisticated approach to

activewear and athleisure

The collection is more upscale than Athleta’s

typical products and also includes $498 leather

jacket and $228 cashmere sweaterMay 2016 September 2015




70

J.CREW

J.Crew and New Balance collaborated for the first

apparel activewear line for men and women in 2016

J.Crew appointed “real” people for the campaign

Jenna Lyons, creative director of J.Crew brand*,

said "We hope these clothes (along with ice

cream) help motivate you to do whatever activity

it is you like to do. And if they don't, we still think

they look great sitting on the couch."*In April 2017 was announced that Jenna Lyons is leaving the company




71

PINKO

Athleisure collection of the same name is present

on the brand’s website in the separate product

category

On social media channels the athleisure

products are promoted as the Spring Summer

2017 collection

Pinko emphasize on the ‘athleisure’ key word,

explains the trend to the customers and shows

how to style new ‘comfy’ products




72

KATE SPADE NEW YORK

Kate Spade launched the athleisure line in

collaboration with Beyond Yoga

The collection consists from 21 pieces and

priced between $85-$250

Besides the basic tank tops, bras, legging, and

shorts the collection also includes pullovers

and jackets




73

REPLAY

In October’15 Replay joined the athleisure trend

by launching a new product - Hyperskin jeans

The main message of the campaign was to break

the stereotype that you cannot exercise in jeans,

Irina Shayk was appointed as the face of the

campaign

The Hyperskin jeans are available at Reply stores

in 2 colors (blue and black) and cost 145 euro




74

VALENTINO

In April 2017 Valentino launched #FlyCrewSneaker

by Pierpaolo Piccioli, the collection was shown

by the skaters

In January was launched Valentino Untitled

unisex collection, which was presented by the

dancers from a selection of Parisian ballet schools

During the past few seasons one of the most

popular product category by Valentino is the the

studded sneaker




75

LOUIS VUITTON

During Paris fashion week in January 2017 Louis

Vuitton released the collection in collaboration

with Supreme

Price range in line with the assortment of Louis

Vuitton’s main collections, $4000 for backpacks,

$955 for sneakers, $2000 for denim jackets

The collection will be available at the Louis Vuitton

stores in US starting from June 2017




76

LACOSTE

In March 2017 was released the special collection

by Lacoste and Supreme

The collection is sport-inspired and includes range

of track jackets and sweaters ($198), polos and

track pants ($148), shorts ($123), and caps ($50)

The collection is on sale at the Supreme shops in

New York, Los Angeles, London, and Paris, as well

as online




77



DIOR

Dior doesn't make the difference between sporty

products and the classy ones, the newly launched

D-Fence sneakers are communicated together

with the classy pumps

Women’s Spring Summer 2017 collection was

inspired by the fencing, Beatrice Vio is the new

brand ambassador

During the SS 2017 fashion week on the catwalk

were shown the series of the T-shirts


78



GUCCI

In April 2017 Gucci release its Pre Fall

2017collection via special campaign, styled by

Alessandro Michele

The collection was presented via ”Athletic

dance moves”

Earlier the brand announced about its new

service – customization of the Gucci Ace

sneakers with the special patches


79

INFLUENCE OF THE MUSIC CULTURE ON FASHION


80

Influence of the Pop Culture on Fashion


Spring Summer 2017

“Run the Streets” by Puma

The Weeknd

Spring Summer 2017

“Spring Icons” by H&M

Facts:

His name often appears headed for the

music charts.

His lyrics deal with sex, drugs, prostitution

and similar themes. Some videos on his

official YouTube channel gain more than

700 mln views. His audience on Instagram

equals to 12 mln.

In 2016 The Weeknd collaborated with

several brands.


81



Limited edition pieces by Lil Yachty x Nautica

Lil Yachty

Facts:

Hip-hop artist from USA, born in 1997.

Some videos on his official YouTube channel

gain more than 6 mln views.

In February 2017 Lil Yachty debuted as

Nautica’s creative director at the NYFW.

Karen Murray, President of Nautica relies on

the Lil Yachty vast and growing millennial

following.

Lil Yachty in Nautica for Urban Outfitters


82



FKA TWIGS for Calvin Klein, March 2016

FKA TWIGS

Facts:

Tahliah Debrett Barnett, known by the stage

name FKA Twigs, is an English singer,

songwriter, was born in 1988.

Some videos on his official YouTube channel

gain more than 8 mln views.

Her new track “Trust In Me” was the part

of Nike Women’s Spring Zonal Strength

tights campaign. FKA TWIGS for Nike, January 2017


83



BEYONCE

Facts:

Beyoncé has received numerous awards. As

a solo artists she sold over 100 million

records worldwide making her one of the

best-selling music artists of all time.

Beyonce endorsed many brands and even

participated in development of some fashion

collections.

In 2016 she officially launched an

activewear brand Ivy Park.Ivy Park by Beyonce


84



RIHANNA

Facts:

Rihanna is one of the most influential artists

with sales exceeding 230 million records

worldwide.

In February 2016 Rihanna presented the

Fenty Puma collection for men and women

during the NYFW.

According to Puma the Rihanna’s

collection had a tremendous impact on

the company’s success in the fashion/

lifestyle area and was sold out within

hours.

Rihanna’s Fenty Puma collection


85

EXPANSION OF THE E-TAILERS

INTO SPORT SEGMENT


86

Expansion of the E-tailers into Sportswear Segment


In July 2014 Net-A-Porter launched a

new platform Net-A-Sporter. More than

35 designers and brands are available

with the prices ranged from $80 to $3500

Besides the wide range of the assortment

for running, swimming, skiing tennis, yoga

exercises, the customers of Net-A-Sporter

can also learn on how to prepare a detox

drink and which beauty products is

essential to buy after the sport activities.


87



Louisaviaroma also sells the

activewear for the gym ‘and beyond’

for men and women. In addition to the

new activewear brands in the assortment

of Louisaviaroma the customer can find

selection of goods from Nike, Reebok and

Adidas.

Similar to Net-A-Sporter Louisaviaroma is

covering all the main activities: boxing,

running, skateboarding, skiing, training,

yoga, tennis and so on.


88



In February 2017 Mytheresa.com in

collaboration with Missoni launched a

special activewear capsule collection, a six-

piece range consists of a cropped cardigan, a

top, leggings, a jumpsuit, a halter neck bra and

trousers — all done with the signature Missoni

print.

It was a first activewear collection for Missoni,

but not the last one. Just 2 months after,

Missoni announced about the new project with

Stéphane Ashpool for the basketball-inspired

men’s wear collection.


89



Amazon is currently selling its own brands

of dresses and suits and at the beginning

of the 2017 it became known that

Amazon is planning to develop its own

line of the workout apparel.

It is important to note that online giant

already sells big number of the

sportswear brands including the top ones

like Nike, Adidas, Puma, Under Armour.


90

INNOVATIVE TECHNOLOGIES FOR SPORT


91


Sensoria Smart Sock

The company created the smart sock that can tell

how fast and how far, and also how well you run.

Each smart sock is infused with textile sensors under

the plantar area (bottom of the foot) to detect foot

pressure. Adjustable anklet connects sock to the

Sensoria mobile app.

Furthermore the company offers the t-shirt for men

and sports bra for women that has attachable

heart rate monitor that is also sending the

information to the app.

Wearable Technology


92

Wearable Technology


Ralph Lauren Smart T-shirt

Ralph Lauren, in collaboration with Montreal-

based tech startup OmSignal, made a "second-

skin" fabric workout shirt, that has silver fibers

woven directly into the fabric and a small, sensor-

filled black box that snaps into the shirt near the rib

cage, to track biometric stats like steps taken, heart

rate, breathing depth, and energy exertion.

The data transfers to the PoloTech App, which

offers live fitness monitoring, reporting and a “push

rate,” which measures exertion, power and effort,

during sports activity.


93


Runtimate Armband

The Armband has a magnetic fastening

between the phone case and the band,

that allows to remove or use the phone

during the training if necessary.

The product technology is borrowed from the

manufacture of technical equipment for

extreme sports, so the armband is made to

withstand even a during intense training.

Wearable Technology


94


BearTek Gloves

BearTek Gloves primarily aimed to people, that

do skiing, snowboarding and motorcycling or

any other kind of sport involving low

temperature or requiring hand protection.

Bluetooth system gives users controls for

their devices quite literally at their

fingertips. The Gloves can be connected to

smartphone or GoPro and allow users to

control music, camera and phone calls.

Wearable Technology


95


Levi’s & Google Smart Jacket For Urban Cyclists

The smart Commuter jacket has technology

woven into its fibers, and allows users to take

phone calls, get directions and check the time, by

tapping and swiping their sleeves. That delivers

information to them through their headphones so that

they can keep their eyes on the road without having

to fiddle with a screen.

Its smart fibers are washable; they're powered by a

sort of smart cufflink that have to be removed when

you wash the jacket. The cufflink has a two-day

battery life. The jacket should hit stores in fall of 2017.

Wearable Technology


96


Wearable X Fan Jersey

The Football Fan Shirt is embedded with haptic

technology that physically and digitally connects

the fan to their favorite team in real-time.

The Shirt is incorporated with the sensors,

marked green on the picture, and by using

haptic vibrations, the shirt communicates all

important moments that happen during the

game. The shirt connects with special app by

Bluetooth doing the real-time experience

possible.

Wearable Technology


97


Fyre: Temperature-Regulating Hoodies

Crowdfunding campaign on Indiegogo

Fyre creates hoodies and cardigans that

distribute the heat with the help of

removable battery.

The company claim to use extremely thin and

flexible carbon heating fibers that ensure an

even distribution of heat. The Hoodies are

machine-washable after removing the battery.

The startup raised 250% from the declared goal.

Wearable Technology


98


Vitali: The Everyday Smart Bra

Crowdfunding campaign on Kickstarter

The idea for Vitali first came from yoga. Good

breathing and posture are not only vital to the

practice, but also everyday wellbeing.

With biofeedback from the Gem and sensors,

located in the bra, the company is able to

analyze the data about breathing, posture

and heart rate and give users advices, to

straighten the back or take a break, in real time.

Wearable Technology


99

Technology For Sport

Fashion, Sports and AthleisureM

ob

ile A

pp

licati

on

s

Heart Watch

Heart Watch lets you see how

your heart is beating across

three simple views. Waking,

Regular & Workout.

WeFit

Italian startup that helps people

to find and book their personal

trainer, according to physical

activity they want to do.


100



BuddyForFit

BuddyForFit is a social platform

that allows you to instantly find

sport buddies near you and train

together.

WeFitter

Startup from Barcelona allows users

to participate in fitness challenges,

earn points and convert them for

rewards from different brands.

Mo

bile A

pp

licati

on

s


101


Fashion, Sports and AthleisureS

po

rts

Eq

uip

me

nt

BodyBoss 2.0

Indiegogo startup from US, that

simulates 1,000s of dollars worth

of gym equipment in one

portable platform.

G-FORCE

Indiegogo startup from Italy

which allows to perform the

widest range of exercises in one

piece of gear.


10

2

EXPERIENCE DESIGN POINT OF VIEW


10

3

"Like the process of UX design,

fashion design is iterative and goes

through many phases before you're

ready to get it to your user or customer"

Service design is an approach to help the fashion

industry become more human-centered, aligning their

products, services and business models firmly with

people’s behaviors and aspirations. Opportunities

include improving the fashion customer journey and

experience, ideating new services for the fashion

industry, building more sustainable business models,

and integrating new technologies into fashion in a truly

user-centered (rather than tech-centered) way.

- Regina Gilbert

Experiencing Fashion:How service design can help fashion brandsimprove customer interaction


10

4

Service design for the fashion industry

The service

design toolkit

Ethnography and

observation to

explore behaviors

Prototyping and

co-creation

New paradigms

and technologies New business models


10

5

The service design toolkit

Service design is a holistic approach that explores the

behaviors, activities and contexts of (potential) customers,

distills insights from this, and then uses these “behavioral

models” to shape services and how customers experience

them. The design toolkit includes techniques like

observation, ethnography, structured interviews and other

qualitative research methods, modeling tools like customer

journeys, personas, scenarios, and design approaches like

concept design and prototyping.

"Service design explores behaviors,

activities and contexts, and then

uses these 'behavioral models' to

shape services and how customers

experience them.



10

6

"The fashion business will need to

more thoroughly understand the

attitudes, behaviors and contexts of

consumers and design new

products and services that excel in

usability and user experience."

Ethnography and observation to explore behaviors

The human-centered approach is becoming increasingly important in fashion,

due to the many varied online and offline ways the fashion industry connects

with its customers and the nascent growth of wearables and “soft computing”

(technology that is inside the fabrics themselves). Therefore, the fashion

business will need to more thoroughly understand the attitudes, behaviors and

contexts of consumers and design new products and services that excel in

usability and user experience, particularly when considered with other activities

consumers do, like driving, working, running etc. Likewise, we must consider

people's contexts. How will this service be experienced in crowded store

environments, noisy concerts? What if the service is accessed from home, from

work, from a device? By observing people's real-life behaviors in their various

environments, we can shape their interactions with the service accordingly.



10

7

Prototyping and co-creation

Consumers can be engaged and active within the

design process through co-creation - identifying hidden

requirements and giving direct input into the design

through empathetic, hands-on techniques. Services

can even be prototyped, through models that allow

consumers to experience what using the service would

be like, and offer feedback.

New business models

New business models can help fashion companies to develop

more sustainable practices, addressing the criticisms of fast

fashion. By addressing the stages of the garment journey from

development to customer and beyond, the fashion industry can

incorporate cradle to cradle practices and a circular economy

approach, such as recycling and reusing components, and

building end-of-life service practices into the customer journey.

Service design can go beyond the brand and customer

experience, and help ensure that technology is being incorporated

into fashion products and stores in a way that is meaningful for

consumers, and useful for business purposes.



10

8

New paradigms and technologies

The user experience will be critical in designing how people interact with

wearable devices, but how will this provide a smooth and delightful user

experience and be different from how we interact with other smart

devices? We also need to consider how people expect wearables to

behave, and whether we need to adapt old interaction models before we

apply them to a new class of devices.

Digital technologies will also allow fashion companies to collect a lot more

data - not just from online and CRM technologies, but from the technology

embedded into garments themselves. Good service design can ensure

that brands collect information that is relevant and useful to them, by

combining knowledge of their audience with the appropriate technologies.

"The user experience will be critical

in designing how people interact

with wearable devices.



10

9

Dr. Todd Harple is an anthropologist in

Intel's New Devices Group, based in

Oregon, USA. His work focuses on

wearables and the future of computing.

He has worked for 11 years at Intel as a

researcher and innovator, and is currently

the Director of Innovation & Pathfinding

Strategies. He lived in Turin, Italy for four

months in 2013.

Todd has been working for several years in the field of

“soft computing” (as in understanding what it takes to

make sensors and technologies conformable and soft

to the touch and the body, often integrated inside

fabrics) and smart apparel. His activities began with

building an understanding of the people who were

already actively integrating technology into garments,

understanding what people were trying to achieve,

what was working, and what wasn't before moving to

integrate those findings with new materialities of

sensing and computation made possible by new

materials and miniaturization of technologies that could

form the foundation of an emerging data economy.

Service design opportunities for the fashion industry:Interview with Todd Harple


11

0

How are soft computing and smart apparel

changing the fashion industry?

We learned early on from user research that what

people wear, hold or carry often has meanings that

inter-relate fashion, style, functionality and beyond.

What this means for consumers is the possibility of a

frictionless way to capture detailed, increasingly

accurate contextual information about their bodies,

behaviors, and contexts. In the near term, many of

these capabilities are being honed for athletes to

improve workouts, body efficiencies and more.

In the long term, it is quite possible that our

garments will form a sort of “black box” that will

inform us of risks to our health and that of others

around us ranging from understanding basics like

heartrate and activity to more detailed information

about hydration, blood sugars, muscle performance,

and even cognitive performance. These capabilities

may well transform the future of healthcare and

human well-being in general.

As an anthropologist, I'm driven by understanding

how to generate an empathic connection with people

who might use whatever we might make, but at the

same time I'm well aware of the tech constraints and

business concerns that need to be balanced.

Soft computing combined with miniaturization of

technology is bringing new tools and capabilities into

fashion that enable designers to transform the way

we look and perform at work and at play. Its not just

dresses on the runway featuring robotics or

biosensors. Nor is it simply clothing and accessories

that can seamlessly improve our fitness and prevent

injury. Soft computing and smart apparel will

increasingly leverage the intimate contact between

our garments, accessories and our bodies and

motions to bring new data, experiences, and

understandings to the world. In some ways, one

might consider fashion designers the “developers” of

the future. Empowered by soft computing, designers

and fashion houses may well be poised for a

dramatic pivot as arbiters of the world’s largest

databases of personal data.

In research on fashion technology, we found many

cases of fashion designers trying to reconcile a

desire to manipulate aesthetics and functionality of

garments initially for artistic expression. On the one

hand, we learned how materials and materiality

influenced and inspired design. On the other, how for

an emergent group of designers, traditional

processes and expertise around things like

sketching, pattern making, cutting and sewing were

in part giving way to things like digital sketching,

3D modelling and printing and assembly.



11

1

How can a service design approach help us to improve

fashion design?

The systemic approach of service design can and will impact the entire fashion industry.

Already designers and fashion houses are experimenting with the delivery of new services and

experiences that integrate technology at nearly every stage of the product development lifecycle:

development of new fabrics and materials using both organics and synthetics, development of fibres

that take on new capabilities like color or phase change or conductivity and new tools with which to

design (sketching and prototyping virtually with such resolution that visions will be bound only by the

imagination) and manufacture and so forth.

Co-creation and mass customization as services that tie design, manufacturing and purchase more

closely together are the early sentinels of service design’s utility in fashion. Already emerging in the

footwear segment, it will extend across all garments and accessories. Traditional analog is

beginning to find a comfortable relationship with digital partnerships

(think the likes of Tag Heuer and Intel).

For example: The Adrenaline Dress is a collaboration between Intel and fashion designer Becca

McCharen. It responds to the wearer’s stress levels and adrenal function, and changes shape

accordingly. (Image courtesy of Intel)”



11

2Service design opportunities for the fashion industry:Interview with Todd Harple

What are the main ways you have observed service

design entering the fashion world in the last 1-3 years?

Service design can connect the consumer, design, and manufacturing journeys

more strongly. This can be seen in the emergence of mass customization and

personalization—things like Shoes of Prey and Feetz.

In terms of business models, we can discover creative ways to make use of

“sharing economy” models - for example, offering people the experience of trying

high-end fashion (e.g. Rent the Runway) and simultaneously creating an economy

to get maximum wear and recycling.

This can also lead to radical re-thinks of products, focusing on a circular

economy/cradle-to-cradle service design, to respond to criticism around “fast

fashion” (think Patagonia).

The Synapse Dress logs and communicates mood and stress levels. The 3D

printed dress was designed by Dutch Fashion Tech designer Anouk Wipprecht with

Niccolo Casas and Intel’s New Devices Group. (Image courtesy of Intel)


11

3

What would you consider to be

opportunities for the fashion industry

to integrate service design into

garments and fashion?

Reduction of waste and environmental harm seem

like the loftiest of goals that service design can

make incrementally attainable. Consider things we

purchase today that require an “end of life”

practice—recycling of batteries, phones, consumer

electronics, and light bulbs. Imagine a future where

whatever you purchase has a plan for its end of

service. Service design can be integral here.

We can improve connection across the experience

lifecycle – design, supply chain, manufacture,

distribution. From our first knowledge of a product

onward, service design and technology have the

ability to intertwine social and environmental ethos

into the lifecycle visible to the consumer.

Where are the biggest innovations in

"fashion service" coming from currently?

Mass Customization: Things like Feetz, Nike iD, and

Shoes of Prey are leading the way in challenging

norms of design, manufacture and distribution. Feetz

goes a step further and allows for a truly custom

design based on 3D models of a consumers' foot.

How long before 3D scanning becomes accessible

and standardized to the point of extending this to

other garments?

Rapid Design and Prototyping: Software like V-

stitcher combined with rapid production techniques

like 3D knitting and printing are going to make rapid

design and prototyping a reality—shortening

development cycles and improving time to market.

Some companies will emerge at the intersections of

the hardware and software to smooth this out and

make it a reality.

New Materials: Increasingly companies are

challenging long-held understandings about materials,

their production and usage. Organics like leather are

now in the early stages of being grown for production,

kombucha has shown potential for making an organic

material similar to leather or vinyl, silver-fibre threads

and patches once used for their anti-microbial

properties are becoming sensors and circuits,

academics are developing fibre and thread-based

circuits and batteries. 3D printing is showing promise

in adapting not just synthetic materials, but also

integrating graphene, carbon nanotubes into polymers

to add functionality. Others are experimenting with

mycelium as a printing medium.

New materialities of sensing, computation, and

materials for construction have the potential to

enable a dramatic shift in our understandings and

expectations of fashion supply chains and

environmental impacts.



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INNOVATION CENTEROBSERVATORY OF INNOVATION

fashion, sports and athleisure · 2019-04-18 · 2nd report 2017: athleisure, the merge between...

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