feel the elements - jaco...similar lists existed in the ancient cultures of babylonia, japan, tibet,...

Seductive Fine Fragrances

FEEL THE ELEMENTS

Bell Flavors & Fragrances | 2

Rooted in Magic

Discover Bell’s new fragrance collection

inspired by water, fire, air and earth.

Gold and silver complement the traditional

spectrum adding a hint of luxury to the

assortment.


The Classical Elements

Talking about classical elements, this is usually water, fire, air and earth.

Ancient Greece even had a fifth element – aether – responding to the “transcendent” world.

Similar lists existed in the ancient cultures of Babylonia, Japan, Tibet, and India.

This archaic, but also magical starting point makes

the classical elements an ideal inspiration for

complex perfume compositions.


Classical Elements in Western Cultures// Ancient Greece

Source: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Classical_element

Originally invented to explain the complexity of

nature, the classical elements represent the most

basic components of life. Greek philosophers were

the first to associate properties of things with five

elements.

EARTH WATER FIRE AIR THE 5th ELEMENT

Aristotle cold and dry cold and wet hot and dry hot and wet AETHERunchangeable, heavenly substance

Galen blunt, dense, immobile

blunt, dense, mobile

sharp, subtle,mobile

blunt, subtle, mobile


Classical Elements in Western Cultures// Astrology

EARTH WATER FIRE AIR

Taurus, Virgo, Capricorn

Cancer, Scorpio, Pisces

Aries, Leo, Sagittarius

Gemini, Libra,Aquarius


At the same time, the elements have always been associated with cosmology and mythology. Even personified deities represent elements in some cultures.


Classical Elements in Eastern Cultures


Japan solid liquid destroying moving VOIDtranscendent

China bears metal; absorbs water

nourishes wood; quenches fire

creates earth (ash); melts metal

- METALcollects water; chops woodWOODfeeds fire; parts earth


Asian cultures adapted the concept of basic elements as well, but associated them with slightly different properties. A fifth element is also present. In China there are even six elements, including metal and wood.


Classical Elements in Eastern Cultures


Buddhism solidity, inertia

cohesion heat, energy expansion, vibration

-

Hinduism perceived by all five senses

no odour but can be heard, felt, seen and tasted

can be heard, felt and seen

an be heard and felt

AETHERaccessible to the sense of hearing


Buddhist and Hinduist religions make their own concept of elements. The latter conduct an earthy, watery, fire- or air-related character of a thing from its physical properties.


Feel the Magic of

WATERFeel the Magic of


Inspired by Water

Jil Sander Sport Water Woman

“…a floral aquatic fragrance for women”

Armani Acqua di Giò Homme“… a mythical, fresh and

aquatic fragrance…”

Davidoff Cool Water“…inspired by the strength of the ocean...”


The Perfumer‘s Inspiration

“The sun has just risen. I find myself in a rough Corsican landscape and the warm

light paints beautiful skies with light rosy cirrus clouds. The salty air is slowly

heating up promising a wonderful day at the sea.“

Fragrance Idea:

accord with fresh and cool elements

surprising and voluminous, but also light

fantasy smell


Top: vibrating, fresh, cool, bitter, water,

grapefruit

Heart: cool, floral, ice mint, lotos, cedarwood

Base: soft, leather, musk

The Fragrance of Water

7800140

Supreme Blue


Feel the Magic ofFeel the Magic of

EARTH


Inspired by Earth

Boss HugoBestseller Douglas

“This scent will strike you with its original mingling

of intensively fresh sea breezes and the

masculine spiciness of its woody notes.”



“I find myself in a greenhouse, the air is humid and warm. Transparent flower

pots draw my attention. Through the plastic, I see roots winding through the wet

earth.“

Fragrance Idea:

accord with less floral, but more rooty notes

present and voluminous, but not heavy

light and close to nature


Top: angelica roots, violet leaves

Heart: wet earth, mineral notes

Base: vetiver, oakmoss, orris

The Fragrance of Earth

7800129

Roots of Life



FIRE


Inspired by Fire

Versace Eros Flame“… a Versace fragrance for

strong, passionate, confident men who are deeply in touch

with their emotions. “

Dior Fahrenheit“… a fragrance built on the bold marriage of extremes that attract in an almost magnetic way: hot and cold, subtlety and power.”



“I feel warm. The heat of the camp fire triggers memories of cuban cigars. The red

and yellow colour of the flames bring spices to my mind. Dry, cut tobacco leaves

represent the warm reddish tone of the fire just perfectly…“

Fragrance Idea:

hot tobacco note

warm, but also transparent

a composition combining warmth and freshness at the same time


Top: black pepper

Heart: vetiver, pimenta officinalis, saffron

Base: honey, cistus, tobacco

The Fragance of Fire

7800125

Fire Rhapsody


Feel the Magic of

AIRFeel the Magic of


Inspired by Air

Une Nuit Nomade: Bohemian Soul“…like a gentle wind rising up over the ocean”



“I just woke up and stepped out of my house in a wide green meadow in

southern France. There is nothing but the soft noise of a fresh breeze that

makes me shiver a bit. The grass is still wet from the fog. The white flowers

beneath me are about to open again. I can feel the first rays of the sun on

my skin…“

Fragrance Idea:

short formula, light as air

an accord in movement that is like flying by

fresh effect


Top: galbanum, pink peppercorn, mimosa

Heart: air accord, aerial flower, dandelion

Base: cloud of musk

The Fragrance of Air

7800132

Wild Wings



METAL


Silver and Gold

Cavalli Roberto Cavalli“… pink pepper spikes its temperament with colourful shades; its seductive smile reveals a burst of orange blossom and its sensual velvety soft curves leave an unforgettable note of roasted fava tonka…”

Paco Rabanne Lady Million“… A trail of white flowers awakes the skin with fresh

notes and exudes an intimate woody warmth. Honey and

patchouli. Dangerously sexy…”



“An elegant couple celebrates its anniversary in a splendid rooftop bar in Dubai.

The sun has just set and thousands of windows light up the skyline. Her golden

jewellery reflects the evening lights giving her a feeling of being special

tonight…“

Fragrance Idea:

a fragrance representing luxury in an Arabian way

champagne notes represent the metallic texture of gold

still, there is a certain lightness


Top: champagne, ginger, pink pepper

Heart: osmanthus, orange blossom,

jasmine sambac

Base: ambrox, ambrette seed, golden patchouli,

agarwood

The Fragrance of Gold

7800131

Black Gold



“Mirror, mirror on the wall, who is the fairest one of all? Mirrors are full of magic

and mystery, not just in fairy tales. I see shadow and light, blurred faces of times

long passed. A sparkling light draws my attention…”

Fragrance Idea:

accord with metallic and fresh elements

voluminous but light

fantasy smell with floral aspects


Top: metallic, sparkling, grapefruit, cool water

Heart: cool, floral, metal, lotos, muguet

Base: amber, leather, musk

The Fragrance of Silver

7800147

Liquid Silver


Annexe

General Trends and Market DataFine Fragrances


General Trends in Fine Fragrances: Unisex

The new Les Eaux de Chanel collection comprises three light

and citrusy variants inspired by different destinations: Paris-

Deauville, Paris-Venise and Paris-Biarritz. They are presented in

minimalist flask-style bottles.

Chanel entering the growing unisex market

“Genderless” fragrances in Europe increased from 14% in 2014 to 17% in 2018

Unisex fragrances grow at the expense of women's fragrances, which saw a decline in 2018

Source: GNPD Mintel


General Trends in Fine Fragrances: Format Play

Reasons for new Formats

Liquid formats dominate in the fragrances market, but brands are exploring other textures

and especially solid formats due to a rising demand for portable formats

Creams, pens, jelly and cushions highlight portability and mess-free attributes like less risk of

spillage than liquids

Source: GNPD Mintel

of UK consumers areinfluenced by format when considering purchasing a fragrance

Convenience

Appealing Consumers

Market Innovation

Differentiation26%


General Trends in Fine Fragrances: Format Play

Source: GNPD Mintel

Kenzo Flower by KenzoPerfumed Jelly with Cushion

a gentle pressure on the puff releases just enough of the airy gel texture to make the skin "shiver with pleasure"

Thierry MuglerPerfuming Pencil/Pencil

solid wax perfume in a pen format

offers precise and easy application

ideal for topping up scent throughout the day

Glossier You Solid Perfume

encased in a metal compact (3g) which is sculpted to fit the curve of the palm and thumb

promoting an "addictively flippable" hinged swivel lid


Body sprays/mists account for some 26% of overall fragrance launches in the Middle East in

the 12 months to September 2018 – higher than the 10% global average

Innovations in the segment include easy-use dispensers, gentle formulas for babies' skin,

and added value benefits focused on refreshing and caring for skin as well as adding scent

General Trends in Fine Fragrances: Light and Easy

Source: GNPD Mintel

Cool & Cool Mild & Refreshing Baby Mist features a unique, non greasy and quickly absorbed formula with pro vitamin B5 and glycerin, which is said to be perfect for baby's delicate skin.

Rose Mine X Lisa Larson Earl Grey & Cucumber Perfumed Body Mist has a moisturising formula blended with Swedish black tea and 23 kinds of herbs (South Korea).

Prestige players are tapping into the popularity of body mists, with Chanel launching in South Korea and Japan, Chanel N°5 L’Eau All-Over Spray.

Lush Fresh Handmade Cosmetics Dad's Garden Lemon Tree Body Spray is hand-blended with essential oils and presented

in an easy-use and pistol-grip spray bottle (South Africa).


Market Data: Western Europe

Dominating

premium segment

in UK and France

Strong mass

segment in

Germany

Spotlight „Unisex“• Millennials, and more so the younger generation Z, that is re-

inventing itself with the growing trend of “no gender”, are turning to

unisex fragrances, as they value the character and uniqueness of the

fragrance beyond anything else found

• Examples: Fragrance Du Bois Frankincense, Lui by Guerlain, Heaven by

Kilian, New York Nights by Bond, Royal Oud by Creed

Top Brands (RSP 2017 in mn EUR)

Source: Euromonitor Passport

1.899 1.924 1.955 1.988 2.026 2.064

309 311 314 318 323 3281.488 1.512 1.550 1.594 1.642 1.693

744 755 769 786 806 8261.834

1.973 2.119 2.271 2.426 2.586234

228 221 215210 206

001.0002.0003.0004.0005.0006.0007.0008.000

2017 2018 2019 2020 2021 2022

Market Size | UK, Germany, France(RSP 2017 in mn EUR)

Mass UK

Premium UK

Mass Germany

Premium Germany

Mass France

Premium France

Yves Rocher (Yves Rocher SA) 51

Giorgio Armani (L'Oréal Groupe) 42

Burberry (Coty Inc) 31

adidas (Coty Inc) 24

Diesel (L'Oréal Groupe) 24


Market Data: Eastern Europe

Spotlight Poland• consumers tend to appreciate local products,

as they are perceived as more natural, healthy

and supportive for the economy

• Avon limits its offer to mass products of high

quality, meeting the smart purchasing nature

of Polish customers

Spotlight Russia• growing popularity of niche fragrances amongst Russian consumers

reflected in a significant value growth of unisex fragrances

• Launches 2017

Kilian: Black Phantom; Jo Malone: English Oak & Hazelnut; Tom Ford:

Sole di Positano; Mancera: Red Tobacco in 2017; Byredo: Velvet Haze


1.460 1.510 1.565 1.630 1.698 1.772

815 834 858 891 930 975191 200210 221

234246

349363

377393

412431

00

1.000

2.000

3.000

2017 2018 2019 2020 2021 2022

Market Size | Russia and Poland (RSP 2017 in mn EUR)

Mass PL

Premium PL

Mass RUS

Premium RUS

Avon (Avon Products Inc) 275

Chanel (Chanel SA) 137

Oriflame (Oriflame Cosmetics SA) 110

Christian Dior (LVMH Moët Hennessy SA) 89

La Rive (La Rive SA) 23

Top Brands (RSP 2017 in mn EUR; Rus/PL combined)


Market Data: Middle East

Premium fragrances dominate in

UAE, while in KSA premium and

mass fragrances are sold at similar

amounts

Spotlight UAE• Arab scents such as oud, musk and amber from well-known regional

brands continued to be favoured in the United Arab Emirates, but

western-themed notes are being mixed with the Arab character

• Examples for Arab scents with western notes:

Prose for Women by Ajmal, Jewel Blend by Abdul Samad Al Qurashi,

Donna by Arabian Oud, 360 for Men from Arabian Oud

Top Brands (RSP 2017 in mio EUR)


1.493 1.554 1.565 1.586 1.619 1.666

1.334 1.389 1.400 1.419 1.449 1.491

471455 466 485 500 515

85 86 88 91 93 95

00

1.000

2.000

3.000

4.000

2017 2018 2019 2020 2021 2022

Market Size | KSA and UAE (RSP 2017 in mn EUR)

Mass UAE

Premium UAE

Mass KSA

Premium KSA

KSA UAE TotalArabian Oud 469 94 563Al Qurashi 333 93 426Mahmood Saeed 51 51Rasasi 20 30 50Hamil Al Musk 34 34

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feel the elements - jaco...similar lists existed in the ancient cultures of babylonia, japan, tibet,...

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