7/28/2019 FF Patterns Manswaistcoat

1/2

NOTES:

1. Fabric grain ollows vertical lines o graph paper.

2. Pattern pieces are drawn without seam allowance.

3. The waistcoat is back-stitched; lining and pocket aps

are whip-stitched.

4. Center-ront closure o twenty-two - inch-diameter

sel-covered buttons with fteen 1 -inch unctional

buttonholes reinorced with buttonhole stitch that

extends inch beyond the buttonhole opening; seven

buttons are non-unctional.

5. Six/8 -inch diameter sel-covered non-unctional

buttons are located below each pocket opening.

Finished pocket aps conceal most o the buttons.

6. Side seams terminate at pocket.

7. The back o the waistcoat is composed o linen plain

weave. The collar line and the armscye are fnished

on the inside with a 1-inch bias strip o the same linen.

The center-back seam is only sewn 8 inches rom

the top. Beneath this seam, eleven pairs o eyelets

(round holes reinorced with thread) line a 19 -inch

open-seam slit. These are interlaced with twill-tape

to adjust the size.

8. To urther adjust size, two pairs o -inch-wide linen

tapes, each about 18 inches long, are sewn at the sideseam, one at 18 and one at 8 inches rom the hem

and tied at the center back.

9. Center-ront edges and skirts are stiened with

an interlining.

10. The waistcoat ronts, pockets, and pocket aps are

lined with linen plain weave.

Mans Waistcoat, France, c. 1750, silk cut, uncut, and voided velvet

(cisel) on sat in oundation, center-back length: 27 1/2 in. (69.85 cm),

purchased with unds provided by Suzanne A. Saperstein and Michael

and Ellen Michelson, with additional unding rom the Costume Council,

the Edgerton Foundation, Gail and Gerald Oppenheimer, Maureen H.

Shapiro, Grace Tsao, and Lenore and Richard Wayne, M.2007.211.812,photo 2010 Museum Associates/LACMA

This handsewn sleeveless waistcoat is made o silk cut,

uncut, and voided velvet (cisel). The meandering ribbon

and acorn pattern was woven to ollow the edges o the

center-ront and hem o the fnished garment in a method

known as disposition. The concept o weaving text iles

in this way originated in Lyon, France. When worn, the

woven design appears to curve at the center-ront open-

ing because o long darts at the waist; these darts,hidden by the pocket aps, assure a fner ft.

As suit coats became closer-ftting in the mid-

eighteenth century, sleeveless waistcoats became

more common. This example limits the use o luxurious

velvet to the waistcoats ront where it would have

been most visible when worn under a coat.

7/28/2019 FF Patterns Manswaistcoat

2/2

FRONT

UPPER

POCKET

LINING

UNDER

POCKET

LININGBACK

CBCF

POCKET FLAP

Pocketplacement

line

SCALE DRAwING OF

CISEL vELvET DESIG

Pocket button

placement

Mans waistcoat, France, c. 1750

CF = Center ront

CB= Center back

Patterns recreated and drawn by Thomas John Bernard

Museum Associates/LACMA, All Rights Reserved

1: 1 Inch