Yarn is the fundamental unit of fabric. Yarn contains a lot of properties (variables) which can affect dyed fabric finished quality. Carded and combed yarns of same GSM have many different properties because of different manufacturing process. Combed yarn is of superior quality and carded yarn is of inferior quality. The main purpose of this project is to find out or investigate carded and combed yarn effect on dyed fabric finished quality such as Color fastness properties(Rubbing, Wash, Perspiration, K/S value).

Introduction: Dyeing is an ancient art. It was practiced during the Bronze Age in Europe. Dyeing is the process of adding color to textile products like fibers, yarns and fabrics. Primitive dyeing techniques included sticking plants to fabric or rubbing crushed pigments into cloth. Dyeing is normally done in a special solution containing dyes and particular chemical material. After dyeing, dye molecules have uncut chemical bond with fiber molecules. The temperature and time controlling are two key factors in dyeing. There are mainly two classes of dye, natural and man-made.The primary source of dye, historically, has generally been nature, with the dyes being extracted from animals or plants. Since the mid-18th century, however, humans have produced artificial dyes to achieve a broader range of colors and to render the dyes more stable to resist washing and general use. Different classes of dyes are used for different types of fiber and at different stages of the textile production process, from loose fibers through yarn and cloth to completed garments.Acrylic fibers are dyed with basic dyes, while nylon and protein fibers such as wool and silk are dyed with acid dyes, and polyester yarn is dyed with disperse dyes. Cotton is dyed with a range of dye types, including vat dyes, and modern synthetic reactive and direct dyes.

Objectives:The aim of the present work is to investigate the qualitative difference between Carded fabric and Combed fabric after dyeing. This project serves the following objectives: To know about dyeing and dyes, To know about Carded fabric, To know about Combed fabric, To know about the scouring process of cotton, To know about the dyeing process by using reactive dye. To know about the recipe using for different shade, To know about colorfastness properties such as rubbing, wash, perspiration, To know about K/S value, To evaluate those result, To find out the comparative qualitative difference between Card and Combed fabric.

Dyeing:Dyeing is the process of adding color to textile products like fibers, yarns, and fabrics. Dyeing operations are used at various stages of production to add color and intricacy to textiles and increase product value. Textiles are dyed using a wide range of dyestuffs, techniques, and equipment. Dyeing is accomplished by dissolving or dispersing the colorant in a suitable vehicle (usually water) and bringing this system into contact with the material to be dyed.In order to understand the art and history of dyeing, we must first understand the process of dyeing itself. According to Websters dictionary, Dyeing is the process of coloring fibers, yarns, or fabrics by using a liquid containing coloring matter for imparting a particular hue to a substance. In other word, dyeing is the process of imparting color to textiles or other materials whereby the coloring matter becomes an integral part of it and not easily altered.

History of Dyeing:Archaeologists have found evidence of textile dyeing dating back to the Neolithic period. The earliest surviving evidence of textile dyeing was found at the large Neolithic settlement at atalhyk in southern Anatolia, where traces of red dyes, possibly from ocher, an iron oxide pigment derived from clay), were found. In China, dyeing with plants, barks, and insects has been traced back more than 5,000 years. Early evidence of dyeing comes from Sindh province in Pakistan, where a piece of cotton dyed with a vegetable dye was recovered from the archaeological site at Mohenjo-daro (3rd millennium BCE).The dye used in this case was madder, which, along with other dyes such as indigo, was introduced to other regions through trade.[5] Natural insect dyes such as Tyrian purple and kermes and plant-based dyes such as woad, indigo and madder were important elements of the economies of Asia and Europe until the discovery of man-made synthetic dyes in the mid-19th century. The first synthetic dye was William Perkin's mauveine in 1856, derived from coal tar. Alizarin, the red dye present in madder, was the first natural pigment to be duplicated synthetically in 1869, a development which led to the collapse of the market for naturally grown madder.The development of new, strongly colored synthetic dyes followed quickly, and by the 1870s commercial dyeing with natural dyestuffs was disappearing. Dyes are applied to textile goods by dyeing from dye solutions and by printing from dye pastes. Methods include direct application and yarn dyeing.

2600 BC Earliest written record of the use of dyestuffs in China715 BC Wool dyeing established as craft in Rome331 BC, Alexander finds 190 year old purple robes when he conquers Susa, the Persian capital. They were in the royal treasury and said to be worth $6 million (equivalent)327 BC, Alexander the Great mentions "beautiful printed cottons" in India236 BC, An Egyptian papyrus mentions dyers as "stinking of fish, with tired eyes and hands working unceasingly55 BC, Romans found painted people "picti" in Gaul dyeing themselves with Woad (same chemical content of color as indigo)2ND and 3RD Centuries AD, Roman graves found with madder and indigo dyed textiles, replacing the old Imperial Purple (purpura)3rd Century, papyrus found in a grave contains the oldest dye recipe known, for imitation purple - called Stockholm Papyrus. It is a Greek work.273 AD, Emperor Aurelian refused to let his wife buy a purpura-dyed silk garment. It cost its weight in gold.Late 4 TH, Century Emperor Theodosium of Byzantium issued a decree forbidding the use of certain shades of purple except by the Imperial family on pain of death400 AD, Murex (the mollusk from which purpura comes) becoming scarce due to huge demand and over harvesting for Romans. One pound of cloth dyed with Murex worth $20,000 in terms of our money today (Emperor Augustus source)700's, a Chinese manuscript mentions dyeing with wax resist technique (batik)925, the Wool Dyers' Guilds first initiated in Germany1188, the first mention of Guilds for Dyers in London1197, King John (of Magna Carta fame) persuaded Parliament to regulate dyeing of woolens to protect the public from poor quality goods1200's, Rucellia, of Florence, rediscovered the ancient art of making purple dye from lichens sent from Asia Minor (similar to Orchils?)1212, the city of Florence had over 200 dyers, fullers and tailors. A directory of weavers and spinners was published as well.1290, the only blue dye of the period, Woad, began to be raised extensively in Germany. The 3 major dyes were now: woad, madder and weld.1321, Brazilwood was first mentioned as a dye, source from East Indies and India. (the country of Brazil was named for the wood found there, not vice versa)1327-1377, Edward III, "Royal Wool Merchant" offered protection to all foreigners living in England and to all who wanted to come to help improve the textile industry.Early 15th, Century Cennino Cennini of Padua, Italy described the printing of cloth (block printing) in his treatise called Method of Painting Cloths by Means of Moulds.15th Century, Aztecs under Montezuma conquered the Mayans. 11 Mayan cities paid a yearly tribute of 2000 decorated cotton blankets and 40 bags of Cochineal (insect dye) each.1429, the 1st European book on dyeing Mariegola Dell'Arte de Tentori was published in Italy1464, Pope Paul II introduced the so-called "Cardinals' Purple" which was really scarlet from the Kermes insect. This became the first luxury dye of the Middle Ages just as Imperial Purple (Murex) had been for the ancient world.1472, Edward IV incorporated the Dyers' Company of London1507, France, Holland and Germany begin the cultivation of dye plants as an industry1519, Pizarro and Cortez find that there is cotton in Central and South America. They send back brightly printed fabrics showing that the Indians knew about block printing prior to the Conquest. Cochineal from Mexico and Peru now being shipped back to Spain.1614, dyeing cloth "in the wood" was introduced in England: logwood, fustic, etc.1630, Drebbel, a Dutch chemist, produced a new brilliant red dye from cochineal and tin. It was used at Goblein (Paris) and the Bow Dyeworks (England)1631-33, The East India Co. began importation of calico from Calicut, India to England. At first they thought the fabric was linen, not cotton.Mid-1600's, English Logwood cutters in Honduras lead a dangerous life (danger from Spaniards, hurricanes, swamps, disease) in the Bay of Campeachy, but could get very rich1688, James II, of England, prohibited exportation of un-dyed cloth from England to help bolster the home industry for English dyers over that of the Scottish dyers.1689, the first calico printworks was begun in Germany at Augsburg and was later to grow into a large industry18th Century - English dyehouse gets contract to dye the Buckingham Palace Guards coats with cochineal. This contract continued into the 20th Century still using cochineal.1708, William III signed a law prohibiting the importation of printed silks, this only made calicos and silks more popular1716, There were now more than 30 laws in England prohibiting the importation of calico and cotton; prints became more popular than ever. 1727 A method of bleaching linen with kelp (seaweed) was introduced in Scotland1733, Fly shuttle invented by John Kay, England1745, Indigo begins to be grown in England, after the Revolution when it became cheaper to import from the East Indies1766, Dr. Cuthbert Gordon patents Cudbear (derived from his mother's name) Cuthbert was prepared from a variety of lichens. Only one of 2 natural dyes ever credited to an individual (other is quercitron to Bancroft)1769, Arkwright's spinning frame in England (aka the Spinning Jenny)1774, Swedish chemist, Scheele, discovered chlorine destroyed vegetable colors by observing a cork in a bottle of hydrochloric acid1774, Prussian Blue and Sulphuric acid available commercially. Prussian blue formed from prussite of potash and iron salt (copperas). Actually one of the early chemical dyes.1775, Bancroft introduced the use of quercitron bark as a natural dye. One of only 2 natural dyes whose discoverer is known, it yields a yellow, brighter than fustic, and is from the inner bark of No. American oak.1786, Bertholet, France, recommended chlorine water for commercial bleaching. Other oxidizing agents began to be used, too: hydrogen peroxide, sodium peroxide and sodium perborate.1785, Bell, England, who had invented printing from plates, developed roller printing1788, Picric acid available (yellow dye and disinfectant) could be dyed from acid dyebath on wool1790, Acid discharge of mordant printing developed1794, Three Frenchmen set up first calico printing1796, Tennant developed bleaching process1797, Bancroft develops a process for steam fixation of prints1798, Oberkampf (in Jouy, France) pleased Napoleon by showing him a roller printer made from a cannon Napoleon had seized from the Pope. This began the famous Toiles de Jouy production. 1802, Sir Robert Peel brought out a resist method, he had purchased the idea for from a commercial traveller for equivalent of $25. It consisted of a wax or other resist on the background, actually a batik technique done on large scale.1823, Mercer discovered chromate discharge of indigo1825, Mathias Baldwin (later of locomotive fame) began the first American production of engraved metal rollers for calico printing which were used in the Philadelphia area and could produce 300 yds of fabric per day.1834, Runge, a German chemist, noticed that upon distilling coal tar, aniline would give a bright blue color if treated with bleaching powder. This helped to pave the way to the development of aniline (basic) dyes 22 years later.1844, John Mercer discovered that treating cotton with caustic soda (lye) while under tension improved its strength, luster, dyeability, absorbency. The process was called "mercerization".

1856, William Henry Perkin discovered the first synthetic dye stuff "Mauve" (aniline, a basic dye) while searching for a cure for malaria and a new industry was begun. It was a brilliant fuchsia type color, but faded easily so our idea of the color mauve is not what the appearance of the original color was.1858, Griess discovered diazotisation and coupling on/in the fiber1858-59, Magenta (fuchsin) discovered by Verguin the 2nd basic dye and more widely used than Mauve1861, Methyl violet, basic dye, by Lauth1862, Hofmann's Violet, Hofmann was one of the great dye chemists of all time1862, Bismarck Brown developed by Martius and Lightfoot, first soluble azo dye1863, Aniline Black, developed by Lightfoot, a black produced by oxidation of aniline on the cotton fiber.1866, Methyl Violet, basic dye1868, Graebe and Liebermann, German chemists, produced alizarin (synthetic madder). this was the first time a synthetic substitute for a vegetable dye had been manufactured. W.H.Perkin also synthesized it about the same time, but independently.1872, Methyl Green by Lauth and Baubigny, still in use, basic dye1873, Cachou de Laval, 1st sulphur dye, a brown, by Groissant and Bretonniere, France1875-76, Caro and Witt prepared Chrysoidine, 1st important member of azo class of dye1876, Caro, an important dye chemist, discovered Methyl Blue, an important1877, Malachite Green, basic dye by Dobner and Fisher1878, Biebrich Scarlet invented, a very pure red acid dye, rivalling cochineal in brightness1878, von Baeyer synthesized synthetic indigo. It was not marketed until 18971880, Thomas and Holliday, England, synthesized the first azo dye formed on the fabric by coupling. Vacanceine red formed by treating fabric with napthol and then dipping in a diazolized amine, a very fast category of dyes.1884, Congo Red by Bottiger, first of the direct cotton dyes1885, Benzopurpurine, early direct dye by Duisberg, bright and highly substantive1885, Para Red dye brought out by von Gallois and Ullrich. (B napthol and nitraniline)1885-89, Chardonnet, France, made the first successful rayon and showed it at the Paris Exposition of 1889.1887, First azo mordant dye, Alizarin Yellow GG1887, Rhodamine B (brilliant red-violet) basic dye1890, Direct Black BH, first direct black1891, Diamine Green B, first green azo dye 1891, Chardonnet built his first commercial plant at Besancon for manufacturing rayon, by the Chardonnet process.1891, Direct dye-Sky Blue FF, important blue for many years, good light fastness1893, 2nd Sulphur dye, Vidal Black1895, Viscose method of making rayon invented by Cross and Bevan, England was begun. This is now the most common process for manufacture of rayon. 1898, Direct Black E, a black dye of major importance1900, When Mozaffer ed Din became Shah of Persia one of his first edicts was to prohibit the use of analine dyes for rugs. All analine dyes were seized and publicly burned. Penalties included jail and fines equal to double the value of the merchandise.1901, Rene Bohn patented his invention of Indanthrene Blue RS, the first anthraquinone vat dye, a category of dyes with extremely good fastness to light and washing 1901, Bohn developed 2nd vat dye, Flanthrene a yellow1902, Thesmar, Baumann, Descamps, and Frossard brought out hydrosulfite and sulfoxylateformaldehyde.1905, Thio-indigo Red, by Freidlander, 1st indigoid dye 1908, Hydron Blue, a rival to indigo, developed by Cassella1914, USA importing 90% of its dye stuffs, a problem during WWI, as many came from Germany.1915, Neolan dye, 1st metallized chrome dye, dyed from strong acid bath1921, Bader developed soluble vat colors, the Indigosols.1922, the AATCC (American Assoc. of Textile Chemists and Colorists) formed its first subcommittee to study washfastness of printed and dyed cottons, formulate testing procedures, standards of fastness.1924, Indigosol 0, by Baeyer and Sunder, 1st commercial indigosol dye1928, Dupont began the fundamental research that would lead to discovery of nylon1936, First pair of stockings knit with a new synthetic fiber from DuPont called "nylon" for which Carothers received the patent.1938, Nylon formally introduced to the public1948, Textiles became second largest industry in USA. The average consumer consumption per capita of fibers: 27 lbs cotton, 6.3 lbs rayon, 4.9 lbs wool.1951, Irgalan dyes introduced by Geigy, 1st neutral pre-metallized dyes (did not require a lot of acid as Neolans did) Cibalans are the same type.1950, Dupont introduced first commercial availability of Orlon, a new acrylic "wool substitute"1951, DuPont announced that a plant in N.Carolina would begin to manufacture Dacron polyester.1951, A new acrylic, Acrilan. was introduced by Chemstrand Corp. 1953, Cibalan Brilliant Yellow 3GL, a dye which lead the way to discovery of the fiber reactive dyes was introduced1954, Celanese Corp announced first commercial production of an American triacetate, Arnel.1956, ICI in England introduced Procion, first range of fiber reactive dye - this dye was to have a major impact on industry as well as textile artists around the world 1956, Eastman Kodak introduced Verel, a modified acrylic1956, American Cyanamid introduced a new acrylic, Creslan1956, One person working out of every 7 in the USA received his income from work performed in textile or apparel industries!1957, CIBA introduces Cibacrons, a new range of reactive dyes and the first to compete with ICI's Procion series 1958, Eastman Kodak introduced Kodel polyester.1964, First permanent press finishes used1968, DuPont introduces Qiana, a fancy nylon with "silk" feel and drape 1968, For the first time manmade fibers topped natural fibers for US consumption. 5 billion pounds vs 4.6 billion pounds, the use of polyester was growing the most quickly.1970s, Late in the 70s, CIBA-Geigy introduced Cibacron F series

Dyes :

A natural or synthetic substance used to add a color to or change the color of something.A dye is a colored substance that has an affinity to the substrate to which it is being applied. The dye is generally applied in an aqueous solution, and requires a mordant to improve the fastness of the dye on the fiber.Both dyes and pigments appear to be colored because they absorb some wavelengths of light more than others. In contrast with a dye, a pigment generally is insoluble, and has no affinity for the substrate. Some dyes can be precipitated with an inert salt to produce a lake pigment, and based on the salt used they could be aluminum lake, calcium lake or barium lake pigments.Essential qualities of dyes are fastness, color, low cost, and uniformity. They must also be water soluble, substantive (attractive) to the textile substrate, and reactive with the textile fibres. The color of a dye depends on its chemical bonds: its pi bonds, multiple bonds and unsaturated groups. Dyes are classified according to their method of application, or sometimes according to their chemical constitution. How they interact with their substrate depends on the nature of the substrate. Generally, cellulosic and proteinaceous fibres are Hydrophilic. Fibres from a synthetic source tend to be hydrophobic. The types of dyes that can be used with each type of fibre are shown below. The fibre types are in blue, and the dye classes in red.

Types of Dyes:

By definition Dyes can be said to be colored, ionizing and aromatic organic compounds which shows an affinity towards the substrate to which it is being applied. It is generally applied in a solution that is aqueous. It is a soluble, colored substance that has an affinity for a fiber or other substance, meaning that it will adhere to the surface. Dyes can be made from plant, animal, and mineral substances.Classification of dyes: Classification based on the source of materials Natural dyes Synthetic dyes.

Dyes according to the ionic nature Cationic dyes Anionic dyes Non-ionic dyesIndustrial Classification of the Dyes Reactive Azoic Basic Direct Disperse Mordant Acid Solvent Sulphur VatThe substances that makes the Dyes color:

Which is explained by the presence of a substance called Chromophore in the dyes. By definition dyes are basically aromatic compounds. Their structures have aryl rings that has delocalised electron systems. These structures are said to be responsible for the absorption of electromagnetic radiation that has varying wavelengths, based upon the energy of the electron clouds.

It is actually because of this reason that chromophores do not make dyes colored. Rather it makes the dyes proficient in their ability to absorb radiation. Chromophores acts by making energy changes in the delocalised electron cloud of the dye. This alteration invariably results in the compound absorbing radiation within the visible range of colors and not outside it. Human eyes detects this absorption, and responds to the colors.

Another possibility is that if the electrons are removed from the electron cloud, it may result in loss of color. Removing electrons may cause the rest of the electrons to revert to the local orbits. A very good example is the Schiff's reagent. As sulphurous acid reacts with pararosanilin, what happens is that a sulphonic group attaches itself to the compound's central carbon atom. This hampers the conjugated double bond system of the quinoid ring, and causes the electrons to become localised. As a consequence the ring ceases to be a chromophore. As a result, the dye becomes colorless.

To conclude chromophores are the atomic configurations which has delocalised electrons. Generally they are represented as carbon, nitrogen, oxygen and sulphur. They can have alternate single and double bonds.

The way that color of the Dyes be altered:

Modifiers can altered the color of the dyes. Color modifiers like methyl or ethyl groups can actually alter the color of dyes. They do so by altering the energy in the delocalised electrons. It has been found that by addition of a particular modifier there is a progressive alteration of color. An example can be given for methyl violet series.The following steps explains what happens to the colour of the dyes when modifiers are added.Step A: When no methyl group is added the original dye Pararosanil as it is called is red in colour.Step B: As Four Methyl groups are added the reddish purple dye Methyl Violet is got.Step C: With the addition of more groups a purple blue dye Crystal Violet is obtained. It has in it six such groups.Step D: Further addition of a seventh methyl group the dye that is got is called Methyl green.The substance that gives the Dyes Solubility and Cohesiveness:

Auxochromes has also the ability to intensify colors. It is a group of atoms which attaches to non-ionising compounds yet has the ability to ionise. Auxochromes are of two types, positively charged or negatively charged. Auxocromes give the dyes solubility and cohesiveness.

-OH-NHR-Cl-Br

--- -COOH

- -H

Carded yarn:The yarn which is made from short staple and lower quality fibre are called carded yarn. Mainly the card name card come from a machine of spinning section. Carding is an operation, that occurred in spinning section. The yarn which is formed by carding operation called carded yarn.Some points of carded yarn:1. Low cost2. Harder hand fillings3. Strength low.4. It is use to produce normally low quality fabric.5. Dyeing and knitting wastage is very high.Process flow chart of Card yarn:Input Process/MachineOutputBale managementBale Blow room LapLapCarding machine Carded sliverSliver 1st draw frame Drawn sliverSliver 2nd draw frame Drawn sliverSliver Simplex/ Roving frame RovingRoving Ring Frame Yarn

Combed yarn:The yarn which is made from finest and longer fibre we called combed yarn.This types of yarn is very fine for fabric production . Some points of combed yarn are given below:1. Quality of this types of yarn is very smooth.2. Even very soft yarn.3. The strength is higher than carded type yarn.4. Price is higher than carded yarn.5. Softness is higher than carded yarn.6. It produces high quality fabric.Process flow chart of Combed yarn:Input Process/MachineOutputBale managementBale Blow room LapLapCarding machine Carded sliverSliver Pre-comb Drawing sliverSliver Lap former Mini LapLap Combing Combed SliverSliver Post-comb DrawingSliverSliver Simplex/ Roving frame RovingRoving Ring Frame YarnSample preparation :Same GSM of combed and carded fabric was collected from knitting mill considering other properties. We took 3 types of fabric, a. Single jersey, b. Rib, and c. Fleece.The samples were delivered for dyeing. . Dyeing process was done in same dyeing condition and same dyeing recipe for same fabric structure. We used Reactive dye for dyeing those samples.

Single jersey: Single Jersey is a knit fabric used predominantly for clothing manufacture. In single jersey fabric, all face loops are present in one side and all back loops are present in other side of the fabric. One set needle is used to produce single jersey fabric. And this fabric has curling tendency.

Rib: It is the derivatives of double jersey. Back side and face side appearance is same. And this fabric has no curling tendency. Two sets needle is use to produce Rib fabric. Rib fabric is more compact than single jersey.

Fleece: It is the derivatives of single jersey. It contains all the properties of single jersey. But this fabric is more compact than single jersey and Rib fabric.

Reactive dye: A dye, which is capable of reacting chemically with a substrate to form a covalent dye substrate linkage, is known as reactive dye.Here, the dye contains a reactive group and this reactive group makes covalent bond with the fibre. This covalent bond is formed between the dye molecules and the terminal OH group of cellulosic fibres. ReactionReactive dye + Fibre Dye-----Fibre PH>9

Scouring of cotton fabric:Scouring is the process by which all natural and adventitious impurities such as oil, wax, fat, etc. are removed to produce hydrophilic and clean textile material. It is the vital process of wet processing.

Recipe for scouring of cotton fabric:Caustic soda- 2 g/lSoda ash-3 g/l- 3 g/l Stabilizer- 1.5 g/lWetting agent-1 m/lSequestering agent-1 m/lAnti foaming agent-1 m/lTime 60 min Temperature- M L 110

Recipe for dyeing:Reactive dye- 1%, 3%, 5% and 1%(combined color)ELBO Yellow 3RS 1%BEZ Blue VRSP 3%ELBO Red 313SN 5%Combined color- 1%For Fleece, YRB= 123For Rib, YRB=321For Single jersey, YRB= 132Common salt- 40 g/lSoda ash- 10 g/lWetting agent- 0.5 g/lSequestering agent- 1 g/lLeveling agent 1 g/lTime 60 minTemperature - 60M L 110

Recipe for hot wash:Detergent- 5 g/lSoda ash- 2 g/lDistilled water- enough waterTime 15 minTemperature - 95ML= 1 50

Recipe calculation: Stock solution(1%): 1gm dyes + 100 ml waterDyes- Others reagents-

Equipments Needed For Dyeing:

Dyed Carded and Combed Sample:Sample nameSample

Fabric name: Fleece CardColor name: Yellow Shade %: 1

Fabric name: Fleece CombedColor name: Yellow Shade %: 1

Fabric name: Rib CardColor name: Blue Shade %: 1

Sample nameSample

Fabric name: Rib CombedColor name: Blue Shade %: 1

Fabric name: Single jersey CardColor name: Red Shade %: 1

Fabric name: Single jersey CombedColor name: Red Shade %: 1

Sample nameSample

Fabric name: Fleece CardColor name: Yellow Shade %: 3

Fabric name: Fleece CombedColor name: Yellow Shade %: 3

Fabric name: Rib CardColor name: Blue Shade %: 3

Sample nameSample

Fabric name: Rib CombedColor name: Blue Shade %: 3

Fabric name: Single jersey CardColor name: Red Shade %: 3

Fabric name: Single jersey CombedColor name: RedShade %: 3

Sample nameSample

Fabric name: Fleece CardColor name: YellowShade %: 5

Fabric name: Fleece CombedColor name: Yellow Shade %: 5

Fabric name: Rib CardColor name: BlueShade %: 5

Sample nameSample

Fabric name: Rib CombedColor name: Blue Shade %: 5

Fabric name: Single jersey CardColor name: Red Shade %: 5

Fabric name: Single jersey CombedColor name: RedShade %: 5

Sample nameSample

Fabric name: Fleece CardColor name: Yellow, Red, Blue Shade %: 1Y:R:B=1:2:3

Fabric name: Fleece CombedColor name: Yellow, Red, BlueShade %: 1Y:R:B= 1:2:3

Fabric name: Rib CardColor name: Yellow, Red, BlueShade %: 1Y:R:B=3:2:1

Sample nameSample

Fabric name: Rib CombedColor name: Yellow, Red, Blue Shade %: 1Y:R:B=3:2:1

Fabric name: Single jersey CardColor name: Yellow, Red, BlueShade %: 1Y:R:B= 1:3:2

Fabric name: Single jersey CombedColor name: Yellow, Red, BlueShade %: 1Y:R:B=1:3:2

Color fastness testColor fastness to rubbing: The test is designed to determine the degree of color which may be transferred from the surface of colored textile to a specific Crock meter test cloth for rubbing (dry & wet state).Test procedure: 14cm5cm sample is taken. Locked the specimen on the base of crock meter to make flat, 5cm 5 cm, white rubbing cloth to the finger of crock meter, Lower& covered finger on to the sample, turn hand crank & 10 complete turns made(one turn/sec),(1010s) A wetted fabric with 100% take up & drying before evaluation.Evaluation :Compare the contrast between the untreated & treated white rubbing cloth with the staining grey & rate from 1 to 5 and changing in the tested specimen with changing gray scale. This visual assessment is done in color matching cabinet under standard light, D65 (Artificial Day light). Interpretation of grades:5- Excellent4- Good3- Fair2- Poor1-Very poor Method: ISO 105/12

Test report for rubbing:Fabric typeShade percentageCard / combedAssessments

Grade for changingGrade for staining

DryWetDryWet

Fleece Color: Yellow1%Card11/254/5

Combed11/254/5

3%Card11/254/5

Combed1254

5%Card11/254/5

Combed1254

RibColor: Blue1%Card11/254/5

Combed11/254/5

3%Card11/254/5

Combed12/353/4

5%Card11/254/5

Combed12/353/4

Fabric typeShade percentageCard / combedAssessments

Grade for changingGrade for staining

DryWetDryWet

Single jersey Color: Red1%Card11/254/5

Combed1254

3%Card1254

Combed1/234/53

5%Card1/224/54

Combed1/234/53

FleeceY:R:B= 1:2:3

1%Card1155

Combed11/254/5

Rib Y:R:B= 3:2:1Card1155

Combed11/254/5

S/j Y:R:B= 1:3:2Card1155

Combed11/254/5

Graphical representation of rubbing test:

Color fastness to wash: Fastness to washing is one of the important dyeing properties to the consumers. There is a variety of testing procudure to some extent. Washing is important criteria for wet processing because its vary from one country to another.Test procedure: 10cm 4 cm sample is taken, This sample is attached with same size multi fibre fabric & scoured and bleached cotton fabric by sewing. Abrasive action accomplished by low liquor ratio.Reagents : Detergent Sodium carbonate Distilled waterEvaluation : Compare the contrast between the untreated & treated sample with the changing gray scale & staining of color in the adjacent multi fabric with staining gray scale. This visual assessment is done in color matching cabinet under standard light, D65 (Artificial Day light). Interpretation of grades: 5- Excellent 4- Good 3- Fair 2- Poor 1-Very poor Method : ISO 105:CO3Test result for Wash:Fabric type

Shade percentage

Card/ combed

Assessments

Grade for changing Color staining to multi-fibre fabric

acetatecottonNylon PolyesterAcrylicWool

Fleece color: Yellow1%Card24/545552/3

Comb1/24/54/55555

3%Card3435552/3

Comb1/254/55554

5%Card2/33/43/45552/3

Comb23/445554

Rib color: Blue1%Card1/244/53552/3

Comb1/244/53552

3%Card2/333/42/3551/2

Comb1/244/53552

5%Card2/333/42/3551/2

Comb23/442/3551/2

Fabric type

Shade percentage

Card/ combed

Assessments

Grade for changing

Color staining to multi-fibre fabric

AcetateCottonNylonPolyesterAcrylicWool

S/j color: Red1%Card2545552/3

Comb24/545555

3%Card2545552/3

Comb1/24/54/55554/5

5%Card2545553

Comb1/254/55554/5

FleeceY:R:B= 1:2:3

1%Card14/553/4553

Comb1/24/54/54552/3

Rib Y:R:B= 3:2:1Card2/353/45553

Comb1553/4553

S/j Y:R:B= 1:3:2Card1/24/54/53/44/552/3

Comb1/254/54553

Graphical representation of wash test:

Graphical representation of wash test:

Color fastness to perspiration: The garments which in contact with the body where perspiration is heavy may suffer serious local discoloration. This test is intended to determine the resistance of color of dyed textile to the action of acid & alkali perspiration. Test procedure: 10cm 4 cm sample is taken, This sample is attached with same size multi fibre fabric & scoured and bleached cotton fabric by sewing. Wet is solution, liquor ration 50:1, leave for 30 mins. Pour off excess solution, place between two glass/acrylic plates (12.5 kpa) & place in oven for 4 hrs.Reagents:Name of reagentsalkaliAcid

L-Histidine mono-hydrochloride mono-hydrate ()0.5 gm0.5 gm

Sodium Chloride (NaCl)5.0 gm5.0 gm

Disodium hydrogen orthophosphate di-hydrate ()2.5 gm2.2 gm

Distilled water1000 ml1000 ml

8.05.5

Evaluation : Numerically rate the color change & staining of each test specimen under lighting using the gray scales for color change & color staining.Interpretation of grades: 5- Excellent, 4- Good, 3- Fair, 2- Poor, 1-Very poor

Method: ISO 105 E04Test result for perspiration test (Acid medium):Fabric type

Shade percentage

Card/ combed

Assessments

Grade for changing

Color staining to multi-fibre fabric

acetatecottonNylon PolyesterAcrylicWool

Fleece color: Yellow1%Card2545555

Comb1/254/55555

3%Card2/353/45555

Comb2545555

5%Card2/353/45555

Comb254554/55

Rib color: Blue1%Card1553555

Comb1553555

3%Card24/542/34/54/54/5

Comb1/24/54/534/534

5%Card24/542/34/54/54/5

Comb1/24/54/534/54/54/5

Fabric type

Shade percentage

Card/ combed

Assessments

Grade for changing

Color staining to multi-fibre fabric

AcetateCottonNylonPolyesterAcrylicWool

S/j color: Red1%Card1/254/55555

Comb1/254/55555

3%Card2/353/44/554/55

Comb1/2544/5555

5%Card2545545

Comb1/254/5554/55

FleeceY:R:B= 1:2:3

1%Card1/254/54555

Comb1/254/54555

Rib Y:R:B= 3:2:1Card2545545

Comb1/254/5554/55

S/j Y:R:B= 1:3:2Card2544/5555

Comb1/254/54/5555

Graphical representation of perspiration test (Alkali medium):

Test result for perspiration (Alkali medium):Fabric type

Shade percentage

Card/ combed

Assessments

Grade for changing Color staining to multi-fibre fabric

acetatecottonNylon PolyesterAcrylicWool

Fleece color: Yellow1%Card1/254/55555

Comb1555555

3%Card2545555

Comb2545555

5%Card3535555

Comb2/353/45555

Rib color: Blue1%Card1554555

Comb1554/5555

3%Card3553555

Comb1/24/54/53/4554/5

5%Card1553555

Comb1553555

Fabric type

Shade percentage

Card/ combed

Assessments

Grade for changing

Color staining to multi-fibre fabric

AcetateCottonNylonPolyesterAcrylicWool

S/j color: Red1%Card2545555

Comb1/254/55555

3%Card2/353/45555

Comb2/353/45555

5%Card3535555

Comb3535555

FleeceY:R:B= 1:2:3

1%Card1/254/55555

Comb1/254/55555

Rib Y:R:B= 3:2:1Card1/254/55555

Comb1/254/55555

S/j Y:R:B= 1:3:2Card1/254/55555

Comb1555555

Graphical representation of perspiration test (Alkali medium):

Result and discussion: In rubbing test: Maximum fabric has no change in changing and staining scale at dry state. Those values are graded as excellent according to the grading system. But there are a little changes at wet state. And those values are graded as good to fair according to the grading scale.Colorfastness to rubbing of single jersey fabric have some changes both dry and wet state. This changes have done for both Carded and Combed fabric and for 3% and 5% shade. Those values are graded as good to fair according to the grading scale.

In wash test:Color staining to multifibre fabric have done mainly for Acetate, cotton and wool fabric. Those values are graded as good to fair according to the grading scale. There are small staining in Nylon fabric for Rib fabric(both carded and combed fabric and 3% and 5% shade). Color staining for Polyester and Acrylic is excellent.Color changes is also done for all the fabric. And those values are graded as good to fair according to the grading system.

In perspiration test:In acid solution, color staining to multifibre fabric have done mainly for Cotton and Nylon fabric. But this staining is not so much. It can be graded as good to fair. In Rib fabric(Both carded and combed fabric and 3% and 5% shade), color staining have done for all most all the fabric. And those values are also graded as good to fair.Color changing is also done for all most all the fabric . And also it can be graded as good to fair.In alkali solution, color staining to multifibre fabric have done mainly for Cotton fabric. It can be graded as good to fair. In Rib fabric(Both carded and combed fabric and 3% and 5% shade), color staining have done for Nylon and wool fabric. And those values are also graded as good to fair.Color changing is also done for all most all the fabric . And also it can be graded as good to fair.

Color fastness of combined color of 1% shade is much better than the single colors of all shade in case of all the shade. In case of shade variation, there were a small changes between different shade percentage. Color fastness of 1% shade is better than both 3% and 5% shade.

Advantage:

Disadvantage:

Conclusion:The analytical result reveals that carded fabric can easily be used in place of combed fabric. Because there are not so many differences between carded fabric and combed fabric. For this, production cost will be decreased because carded fabric production cost is generally lower than combed fabric. This study work was analyzed a few number of fabric properties. The result of our simple bar diagram shows that using carded fabric and combed fabric have a little change occur in terms of color fastness to wash. There is a little effect on color fastness to rubbing and perspiration both acid and alkali medium.Combed fabrics are stronger, less hairy and more uniform than carded fabrics. That is why, combed fabrics shows better result on color fastness to rubbing, wash and perspiration than carded fabricsIn case of shade variation, there were a small changes between different shade percentage. Color fastness of 1% shade is better than both 3% and 5% shade.

References:

[1] J.E. Booth Principles of Textile Testing, India: CBS publishers and Distributors, 1996, pp.209-235[2] David. J. Spencer Knitting Technology, Cambridge: Woodhead, 2008, pp.1-61[3] Klein. W. Manual of Textile Technology, UK: The Textile Institute, 2008, pp, 286-289.[4] D.B. Ajgaonkar Knitting Technology, New Delhi: Universal Publishing Corporation, 2006, pp.180-181[5] E.R. Trotman Dyeing and chemical Technology of Textile Fibres, London: Charles Griffin andCompany Ltd., 1975, pp, 616-626[6] Munden, D.L. The Geometry and Dimensional Properties of Plain Knit Fabrics Journal of the TextileInstitute 50, 1959.T448-471.[7] Banerjee, P.K. and Alaiban, T.S. Geometry and Dimensional Properties of Plain Loops, Made of RotorSpun Cotton Yarns Textile Res. J. 58(5): 287-290 (1988).