findings
TRANSCRIPT
Findings
Every piece of jewellery need a finding in order for it to function and be uses, pendants need bails and jump rings to sit on a chain and lockets need hinges to open and close. Earring need posts and butterflies to sit on your ear and stones need settings to keep them in place. The list for finding goes on and on and each finding has its own size and shape, the rule of thumb for making findings is form meets function, meaning as long as the finding works for that particular piece of jewellery and the client is happy with it, it works.
Finding are however split into three categories,:1) Functional findings- they are just there to serve a purpose2) Decorative findings- they add to the look of the jewellery,
and enhance its beauty3) Hybrid findings- are both functional and decorative
Functional Jewellery Findings
Decorative Jewellery Findings
Hybrid Jewellery Findings
HINGES
BAILS
COLLETS
Crimp beads
Wire Gauge ChartSWG – Standard Wire GaugeAWG - American Wire Gauge
Gauge SWG (Inches) SWG (mm) AWG
(Inches) AWG (mm)
12 0.104" 2.64mm 0.0808" 2.05mm
14 0.080" 2.03mm 0.0641" 1.63mm
16 0.064" 1.63mm 0.0508" 1.29mm
18 0.048" 1.22mm 0.0403" 1.02mm
20 0.036" 0.91mm 0.0320" 0.81mm
22 0.028" 0.71mm 0.0253" 0.64mm
24 0.022" 0.56mm 0.0201" 0.51mm
Wire Gauge System:Just to confuse us a little further there are two wire gauge charts and they are both currently in use. We however mainly use the AWG (American Wire Gauge) to prevent any confusion it is recommended to always state the wire gauge and the diameter in millimetres.
Earring posts:Standard length :11mm , 2mm groove from the back (to hold the butterfly on)Standard Width: 0.7mm – mass produced pieces ( they can afford to be thinner as it is usually plated metal so it is a lot stronger therefore doesn't need to be thinker to have more strength.Standard Width: 0.9mm – (hand made jewellery)
Standard earring post width
The dimensions for quality posts are:A. Post diameter – 0.85 mm. This diameter will hold up well and not distort under normal wear.
B. Post length – 11 mm. This length will fit most earlobes nicely without being too long.
C. The locking notch should be set in about 2mm from the end and should be smooth.
D. The tip should be smooth, well-rounded and highly polished.
Earring Posts and Butterflies
4.5mm – 9mm
11.5mm( height: 6.3mm)
Wire Size Diameter in Millimetres
What It's Good For Making:
14 ga 1.65 mm • clasps /thick jump rings /chain maille jewellery /neck rings
• bangle bracelets /substantial formed links /eye pins for beads with very large holes
16 ga 1.3 mm • clasps /thick jump rings /chain maille jewellery /neck rings
• bangle bracelets /substantial formed links /eye pins for beads with large holes
18 ga 1.0 mm more delicate clasps /jump rings /formed links /eye pins, head pins
wire-wrapping /ear-wires (though 20 gauge is more common)
fits through most bead holes
20 ga 0.8 mm jump rings /delicate formed links /eye pins /head pins /wire-wrapped links /split-rings /ear wires /fits through most bead holes
21 ga 0.75 mm many people buy this odd size gauge specifically for making ear wires
22 ga 0.65 mm wire-wrapping /wire-wrapped head-pins /wire-wrapped eye-pins /fits through almost all bead holes
24 ga 0.5 mm standard size for wire-wrapped bead links and head pins
wire-wrapping /fits through all but the smallest bead holes. Semi-precious gemstone beads and pearls often have smaller holes than other beads. This gauge fits through almost all of these.
26 ga 0.4 mm for wire crochet /wire-wrapped bead links and head pins
wire-wrapping /fits through all but the smallest bead holes. Semi-precious gemstone beads and pearls often have smaller holes than other beads. This gauge should fit through all of these.
28 ga 0.32 mm for wire crochet /wire-wrapping /wire-weaving.
Jump Rings
Jump RingDiameter Wire Gauge Mandrel
4 mm 20 ga. (0.75 mm) 2.5 mm
5 mm 20 ga. (0.75 mm) 3.5 mm
5 mm 18 ga. (1 mm) 3 mm
6 mm 18 ga. (1 mm) 4 mm
6.5 mm 16 ga. (1.25 mm) 4 mm
7 mm 18 ga. 1 mm) 5 mm
7 mm 16 ga. (1.25 mm) 4.5 mm
7.5 mm 16 ga. (1.25 mm) 5 mm
8 mm 18 ga. (1 mm) 6 mm
9 mm 18 ga. (1 mm) 7 mm
9 mm 16 ga. (1.25 mm) 6.5 mm
9 mm 14 ga. (1.5 mm) 6 mm
12.5 mm 14 ga. (1.5 mm) 9.5 mm
Jump Ring Sizes
Jump Ring Tools
Great way to cut jump rings neatly and straight.
Shepherd Hooks
Cuff links: Double faced : identical faces, metal linksChain Link(Shackled) : similar to the Double faced but linked with chain and can be reversible.Ball Return: fixed backHinged back( bullet) : most commonly produced, most secure and easy on the fingersSnap on: two separate pieces lock and snap together.Fixed back: line the ball return, one solid piece. Difficult to get on but once its on its not going anywhere.Silk Knott (monkey fists):traditionally made from silk they are now mainly made with elasticised fabric, they are very popular as they come in many colours and are the most affordable of all cuff links.Stirrup: wrap around the cuff, bold and pronounced so not popular with a lot of people.
Double Faced Cufflinks
Chain-link Cufflinks
Ball Return
Hinged Back Cufflinks
Snap on Cufflinks
Fixed Backing
Silk Knots Cufflinks
Stirrups Cufflinks
Normal Shirt Button Sizes
13/14 L - Collar Buttons 15L/16L- Sleeve Placket Buttons 17L/18L - Shirt Front Button 19L/20L- Sport Shirt Front Button
15 L
16 L