fine cooking apr/may 2012

5/17/2018 Fine Cooking Apr/May 2012

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" 0 \ ~ . .f ' t i l * " ' i . f,'",~,FEATURES.38 French Roast52 The Carrot 2-StepFor the t;stiest carrots, give this brown-and-steam

method a whirl. By Su si e M i dd le to n68 Beef Rendafig

This traditional Malaysian dish features beef1 1 . - simmered in a fragrant sauce'of coconut milk,, chiles, and spices. Here's your step-by-step guide

to making it. By Susheela Raghauan

This centuries-old cooking technique gives you a succulent, moutbwatering roast with a built-in sidedish. By Arlene Jacobs "


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CONTENTSAPRIL/MAY 2012 ISSUE 116

DEPARTMENTSl2 Make ItTonight 30 Scrambled Eggs

FAST AND FRESH Just ~O minutes REPERTOIRE Sure, they're easyto dinner, start to finish. to make, but there are actually a

few tricks to the creamiest, most19 Marketplace delicious eggs you've ever tasted.TRY THIS ChayoteWHAT WE'RE COOKING NOW 32 The Reading ListAvocado, Baby Artichokes, Cilantro, BOOKS THAT COOKGinger,L eeks, Peas, Radishes, Ramps, New must-reads for food lovers.Rhubarb, Sugar Snap Peas, WatercressBIG BUY COOKING Spinach 34 A Fresh Look at FoodColoring

THE GOOD LIFE Artificial food dyes24 The Science ofVinegar may pose significant health risks.

FOOD SCIENCE This pantry staple Fortunately, there are all-naturalis one of the most useful ingredients ways to color your food.in your kitchen. Here's why.

36 Spring in a Glass26 Great Finds DRINKS Aromatic white wines from

GO SHOPPING Our latest buys France's Vouvray region are a perfectfor the kitchen and table. match for spring cooking.

28 The Perfection 85 Test KitchenofButter Cookies Tips, techniques, equipment, ingredi-COOK STORY She didn't know it at ents, and more, from our experts, p.the time, hut she was learning a lessonin the value ofsimple cooking with the 90 Hand Mixersbest ingredients. By Dori e Gr een spa n TEST DRIVE Two models mixed,whipped, and beat their way to the

front of the pack.

4 FINE COOKING APR/MAY 2012

. .illevery Issue6 READERS' LETTERS8 CONTRIBUTORS10 FINECOOKING.COM93 NUTRITION95 WHERE TO BUY IT97 MENUS98 RECIPE INDEX


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K IT T IJust 30 -minutes to dinner, start tofinish

-ArleneY o

Simmer the mirin, shallots, ginger, andgarlic in an 8-inch skil let over mediumheat until the mixture is syrupy and largebubbles start to form, about 5 minutes.Remove from the heat and whisk in 1Tbs.of the grapeseed oil, the miso, and the hotsauce. Set aside.Season the steaks generolisly with 'saltand pepper. Heat a 12-inch oven-safe skil-

ingit until the.steaks, flipping

about 4 minutes totaa pastry brush, spread the glaze eveover the steaks, transfer to the ovenroast until an instant-read thermomeinserted into the thickest part of thereads 130F to 135F for medium raabout 4 minutes.Transfer the steaks to a cutting bolet rest for 5 minutes, and then cut odiagonal into Yz-inch-thick slices. Pojuice remaining in the pan over top asprinkle with the scallions.



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cheesy rice withgarlic and thymeImagine risotto crossed with macaroniand cheese, and that's what you get in thiscomforting side dish. Dried porcini lend asavory edge without an overt mushroomflavor. Serve alongside a simple roastchicken, or seared veal or pork chops.Serves 4

Y 2 cup dried porcini mushroomsKosher saltcup carnaroli or Arborio rice

4 Tbs. unsalted butter, cut into Y2-inch chunks1 medium clove garlic, f inely chopped2 tsp. finely chopped fresh thyme

3% oz.(1cup) coarsely grated font ina% oz. (% cup) firmly packed, freshly grated

Parmigiano-Reggiano; more for servingFreshly ground white pepper

Bring2 quarts of water to a boil in a3 - to a-quartsaucepan over high heat.Pulse the mushrooms in a spice grinder until.they' re about the size of raw oatmeal flakes.Add the mushrooms, 1Tbs. salt, and the rice tothe boiling water. Reduce the heat to medium tomaintain agentle simmer and cook, stirring occa-sionally, until the rice isal dente. 10to 12minutes.Meanwhile, melt the butter in an 8-inch saute panover medium-high heat, swirling continuouslyuntil it turns adeep golden-brown (be careful notto burn it). Immediately remove the pan from theheat and stir in the garlic and thyme. Set aside.Set a large, fine strainer over a bowl and strainthe cooked rice and mushrooms, catching thebroth in the bowl. Return the rice mixture to thepan over low heat. Stir in the cheeses and thebutter mixture and moisten the rice with Y.to % cupof the broth. Season to taste with salt and pepperand cook another 2 to 3 minutes. Serve with moreParmigiano-Reggiano on top. -Arlene Jacobs

chicken braised withred wine vinegar and tomatoesDeliciously piquant and complex, this dish depends on good-quality rwine vinegar; so use the best you have. Serve with steamed green beaand lots of crusty bread to mop up the sauce. Serves 4

14 cup all-purpose flourKosher salt and freshly groundblack pepper

2 lb. boneless, skinless chickenthighs, each cut into 4 even pieces3 Tbs. olive oil

small onion, halved and thinly sliced2 large cloves garlic. minced14-oz. can diced tomatoes, draineddried bay leaf

% cup good-quality red wine vinegarY o ! : cup lower-salt chicken brothy. cup chopped fresh flat- leaf parsley

Put the flour, 1tsp. salt, and % tsp.pepper ina 1-gal lon plastic zip-top bag.Close and shake to combine. Add thechicken to the bag, zip it closed, andshake vigorously to coat with f lour.Heat 2 Tbs. ofthe oil in a 12-inch skillet(preferably cast iron) over medium-high heat until shimmering hot. Addhalf of the chicken in as ingle layer andcook, flipping once, until golden, 2 to3 minutes per side. Transfer the chicken

to a large bowl. Add the remaining1Tbs. oil to the pan and repeat withremaining chicken.Add the onion to the pan and cook,stirr ing, until slightly softened, about2 minutes. Add the garlic and cook30 seconds more. Stir in the tomatoeand bay leaf, raise the heat to high, acook until the tomatoes begin to bredown, about 2 minutes. Add the vineand boil vigorously until almost evaprated, about 30 seconds. Return thechicken and any accumulated juicethe pan, along with the chicken broth. tsp. salt, and Y, tsp. pepper, stirringwell to combine. Bring to a boil; thenreduce the heat to mainta in a simmeCook. partial ly covered, stirr ing oc-casionally, until the chicken iscookethrough, about 8 minutes. Stir in theparsley, cover, and cook for 1minutemore.Season to taste with salt. Removebay leaf and serve. -Nadia Arumu


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caramel croissant puddingThanks to buttery, ttaky croissonts, thisbread pudding has a richer flavor andlighter texture than most. It puffs beautifullyin the oven but will deflate as it cools, so it'sbest baked right before serving. You canassemble the pudding and let it sit at roomtemperature for up to 1hour before baking.Serve with whipped cream or vanilla icecream. Serves 66 cups 1Y2-inch croissant pieces (torn

from 4 large croissants)4 large eggsKosher salt

1% cups granulated sugar11'1 cupsheavycream

cup2%milk% cup rum, Cognac; bourbon, or whiskey

Position a rack in the center of the oven andheat the oven to 400F.Put the croissant pieces ina 211.-quart heat-proof baking dish. Break the eggs into a mediumbowl, add a pinch of salt, and whisk to blend.Heat the sugar in a wide, heavy-duty 4-quartsaucepan over medium heat without stirring untilit begins to turn dark amber, 3 to 5 minutes. Swirlthe pan to caramelize the sugar evenly. Reducethe heat to low and whisk in the heavy cream,milk, and liquor (be careful, as the liquids willsputter and steam). The caramel will seize up;raise the heat to high and continue whisking untili t dissolves, about 3 minutes.Slowly whisk the caramel mixture into the eggs.Pour the mixture over the croissants, making surethey are ful ly covered. Bake until golden-brownand puffed, about 15minutes. Serve.

=Julissa Roberts


almond -crusted halibutThe crunchy earthiness of the halibut's nut -coating is balancedcrisp green salad and a drizzle of tangy lemon-tarragon vinaigreSince fish cooks so quickly, this dish is speedy by nature, but yousave even more time by chopping the almonds in a food processmaking the vinaigrette while the halibut cooks. Serves 44% oz. (1cup)all-purposeflour

Koshersaltand freshlygroundblackpepper2 large eggs

1Yz cups toasted slivered almonds.finely chopped2 tsp. finely grated lemon zest1- to 1%-lb.skinlesshalibut fillet(preferably 1inchthick), cut into4 piecesandpatted dry

% cupplus2 Tbs. extra-virgin oliveoil5 oz.(8 cups) mixed salad greens% cup fresh lemon juice (from 1largelemon)

medium shallot, minced1 Tbs.chopped fresh tarragon leaves

Line up three medium bowls on thecounter. Whisk the flour, 2 tsp. salt, and1tsp. pepper in the first; lightly beatthe eggs in the second; and mix thealmonds, lemon zest, and Y o tsp. salt inthe third. Lightly season both sides of

the fish with salt and pepper.each piece in the flour, then tand then the almond mixture,the nuts onto the fish so theyHeat 2 Tbs. of the oil ina 12-iover medium heat. Add the ficook, flipping once, until browboth sides and flaky throughouinto a piece to check), aboutper side.Meanwhile, put the greens inbowl. In a small bowl, whisk thjuice, shallot, tarragon, Y o tsp.14tsp. pepper. Gradual ly whiskmaining Y o cup olive oil . Toss twith enough of the vinaigrettecoat. Season to taste with salDivide the greens among 4 pand top with one of the halibuDrizzle some of the remaininggrette over each and serve.

=Bonnie Gord


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chickpea soup with crispy kaleThis quick vegetarian soup starts with twopantry staples-cannedtomatoes and chickpeas- which are simmered with rosemary andbay leaf for extra flavor. Crispy kale makes an addictively delicious andquick garnish (and a great snack on its own)-just toss the leaves witholive oiland salt and bake in a hot oven. Be sure to dry the kale carefullyafter rinsing, or it won't crisp well. Serves 4

small bunch kale (6 Y,oz.), ribs removed,leaves torn into %-inch pieces (about6 cups), rinsed and well dried

3 Tbs. extra-virgin olive oil; more for servingFine sea saltsmall yel low onion, f inely dicedmedium celery stalk, finely dicedmedium carrot, f inely diced

2 1S-oz. cans chickpeas, drainedand rinsed

1 14 %-oz. can diced tomatoes3 rosemary sprigs (about 4 inches)

bay leaf, preferably fresh4 cups mild vegetable broth,

such as Pacif ic brandFreshly ground black pepper

Position a rack in the center of theoven and heat the oven to 425F.In a large bowl, toss the kale with1y, Tbs. of the olive oil and a generouspinch of sea salt. Spread the kale on a largerimmed bakingsheetand bake until crisp butstill green, 10 to 12minutes. Coolon a rack.Meanwhile, heat the remaining 1 Y o Tbs. oliveoil in a 4-quart saucepan over medium heat.Add the onion, celery, carrot. and a pinch ofsalt and cook until tender, about 5 minutes.Add the chickpeas and tomatoes with theirjuice, stir to combine, and cook for 1minute.Tie the rosemary and bay leaf in a cheese-cloth pouch with string. Add the herb pouch,vegetable broth, and 1tsp. salt to the pot.Partial ly cover and simmer gently until f lavor-

ful, about 20 minutes, adjusting the heat asneeded. Discard the herb pouch.Puree the soup with a hand blender or inbatches in a regular blender. Season to tastewith salt and pepper. Divide the soup among4 bowls, top each with some of the kale,drizzle with a l it tle oil , and serve.

-Melissa Pellegrin


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lemon-garlic lamb chopswith minted couscousHere, a simple lemon-garlic sauce does double duty-it's brushed on thelamb and stirred into the couscous. You can use lamb loin chops insteadof rib chops, but they might need slightly more time under the broiler.Serves 412 %-inch-thick lamb rib chops(about 3 lb. total)2 medium lemons

Y o cup extra-virgin olive oil6 medium cloves garlic,. minced

Kosher salt and freshly groundblack pepper% cup couscousy, cup peas, thawed iffrozenY o cup chopped fresh mint

Position an oven rack about 4 inchesfrom the broiler element and heat thebroiler on high. Arrange the lamb in asingle layer on a rimmed baking sheet.Finely grate the zest from both lem-ons and then squeeze them to yield1 4 cup juice. In a smal l bowl, combinethe lemon zest juice, olive oil, andgarlic. Set aside 3 Tbs. of the mixture.Brush oneside of the lamb chops withhal f of the remaining lemon mixture


and season with % tsp. each salt andpepper. Broil for 4 minutes, then flipthe lamb, brush the other side with theremaining half of the lemon mixture,and season with % tsp. each salt andpepper. Broil for3 minutes more formedium rare or 4 minutes for medium.Let the chops rest, loosely coveredwith foi l, for 5 minutes.While the lamb cooks, bring 1cupwater and % tsp. salt to a boil In a 1- to2-quart saucepan over medium-highheat. Stir in the couscous, peas, andreserved lemon juice mixture. Cover,remove from the heat, and let standuntil the peas are tender and the cous-cous has absorbed all of the liquid, atleast 10 minutes.Fluff the couscous with a f ork, stir inthe mint, and serve with the lamb chops.

-Jill Silverman Hough.

nicoise tuna meltsThis open-face sandwich is an incross between a classic tuna mea Nicoise salad. A boule=a roundof crusty white breaci-tnakes a stfor the sandwich. Don't skip the aadds a subtle depth offlavor. Se

5-oz. can water-packed tuna, well14 cupsmall-dicedtomato2 Tbs. minced red onion

Tbs. chopped Kalamata olivesTbs. chopped fresh dill

1% tsp.redwinevinegartsp, extra-virgin olive oilsmall anchovy, minced (about Y o tKosher salt and freshly groundblack pepper

2 slices art isanal boule-type bread5x3 inches, % inch thick)

3 oz. (1cup) f inely grated Comte, Eor Gruyere

Position a rack 4 inches from the broiand heat the broiler on high.In a medium bowl, combine the tunared onion, olives, dill, vinegar, olive oil,1 4 tsp. salt, and a few grinds of pepper.Put the bread on a rimmed baking shbroil until nicely toasted, 30 secondsRemove the pan from the broiler, fl ipover, and spread the tuna mixture eveeach slice, Sprink le the cheese evenlytuna and continue to broil until the chmelted and beginning to brown, 1to 2Serve. -Da

Our daily MakeIt Tonight eletterwith quick weeknight meal ideafor it at FineCooklng.com/MIT.


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fresh tagliatelle with sausage,red peppers, and arugulaIfyou usually think of arugula as salad, think again. Thebright, peppery green brings vibrancy and freshness tothis otherwise rich pasta. Hot Italian sausage will makethis dish spicy; for less heat, use sweet sausage. Serves 4

Koshersalt2 Tbs. extra-virgin olive oil8 oz. hot or sweet Italian sausage, casings

removed2 medium cloves garlic; minced

13-oz.jar roasted red peppers, drained andfinely chopped (1%cups)Y a cup heavy cream1 10-oz. package fresh tagliatelieorfettuccine4 cups loosely packed baby arugula (about 2%oz.)% oz. (% cup) freshly grated Parmigiano-Reggiano8 large fresh basil leaves, thinly sliced (optional)Freshly ground black pepper

Bring a large pot of well-salted water to a boil over high heat.Meanwhile, heat the olive oil in a 12-inch skillet over mediumheat. Break the sausage into bite-size pieces and add themto the ski llet. Cook, st irring frequently, until browned, about4 minutes. Pour off all but 1Tbs. ofthe fat and return the skilletto medium heat. Add the garlic and cook far 30 seconds. Addthe peppers and cream and bringta a simmer. Reduce the heatto low and simmer gently until the sauce issl ightly thickened,Bminutes.Cook the pasta in the boiling water according to package in-structions. Drain well and transfer to a large serving bowl. Add thesauce, arugula, cheese, and basil ( if using) and toss with tongsuntil the arugula iss lightly wilted. Season to taste with salt andpepper and serve. -lvy Manning

ARTISAN.HAND-MADE.SUPERIORQVALI TY.A BelGioioso Commitmen

Be lG io io so Ma sc ar po ne i s ma de fr om the 'f re sh ec ream e nd h as a n etu ra lly ;swee t flav or W 'ith asmo oth , sp re ad ab le te xtu re , O u r Ma sca rp on e hh alf th e c alo ries o f b u tte r, so u se it ev ery d ay , S pi t o n b re ad s a nd b ag el sw i th jam , s tir i t i n to p as ta fa r ic h, c re amy f la vo r, o r s er ve i t w i th M S If re sh fr ui t, Ma sca rpone enr ic he s bo th 4 - ' \ )sweet and savory redpesyespecial lyou r f amous T ir ami su r ec ipe tha t'srig ht o n th e c up .D is co ve r th e amaz in g v er sa ti li ty o f Ma sc ar poDiscove r Be lGio ioso ,

"C la ssic Ita lian C heeses M ad e In T he U .SR eG ip es a nd m o re a t b elg io io so .c om


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~ET

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ii;i'ii:n~~CHAYOTE

Agourd with rnanvnarnesOnce cultivated by the Aztecs, the chayotefruit (also called christophene, vegetablepear, custard marrow, choeho, and mirliton)is a member of the gourd family,whichincludes melons, cucumbers, and squash. Theperennial climbing vine onwhich it growsoriginated in Mesoamerica but is found todayin tropical and subtropical regions world-wide. Not surprisingly, chayote-which iseaten as a vegetable-appears in Cajun,Caribbean, Latin American, North African,Australian, and Asian cuisines.Chayotes can be pear-shaped 01' round,

with smooth, hairy, or prickly dark- to Iight-green skin; their pale-green flesh surroundsa flat, edible seed. The chayotes found in theUnited States are smooth and apple-green on

the uutside and shaped likea peal ', with a fur-rowed base that looks like a clenched fist .Chayotes stay fresh for weeksLook.for chayotes in the produce aisle at thegrocery store or in any Asian, Caribbean,or Latin American market, They should feelvery firm and heavy for their size and be freeofblemishes. Refrigerate chayotes in a plasticbag fur up to a month.Use chayotes as youwould summer squashChayote skin is edible but not as tender as itsflesh, so peeling is usually a good idea. Theseed in the center of the fruit is also edible.It's firm, not crisp like the surrounding flesh,and has a slightly nutty flavor; you can eitherleave it in or remove it by quartering the

chayote and cutting it out, or by hfruit and spooning it out.Prepare chayote the same way

summer squash or cucumbers. RCanbe thinly sliced, julienned, or'added to salads, slaws, or salsas:also be pickled. Quick-cooking the(see recipe below) and stir-fries ktes crisp and juicy, but you can alsstew, mash, roast, or stuff and baka potato.Their subtle sweetness pairs wflavors like red pepper flakes, fresgarlic, cilantro, scallions, lemon orand warming spices like curry powcumin, and coriander, Chayote iscious with rich ingredients likecobutter, cheese, and bacon. =Meli s



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What we're cooking nowFine Cooking editors (and a reader) share

some delicious ideas for in-season ingredients.Fried Baby Artichokeswith Creamy ChipotleDipping SauceTrim and halve baby artichokes.Heat 2inches of vegetable oil inawide, heavy pot until shimmer-ing hot and deep-fry the arti-chokes, in batches if necessary,until golden and crisp. Seasonwith salt. For the sauce, pureecanned chipotle chiles with a bitof adobo sauce and mayonnaiseunti Ismooth; serve with theartichokes. -Ronne Vay

Lemony Ramp ButterBoil trimmed ramps inlightlysalted water until tender; drain.Cool and then squeeze theramps dry ina kitchen toweland finely chop. Mixthe rampswith softened unsalted butter,finely grated lemon zest, salt,and pepper. Serve with ~. _p froasted or grilled chicken, steak,or fish, or stir into scrambledeggs or pasta. -Denise Mickelsen

Baked Eggs withWatercress and GarlicSaute minced garlic in olive oiluntil tender and fragrant. Stir inchopped watercress and cookuntil just wilted. Butter some ra-mekins. Toeach,add aspoonfulof the watercress and top with anegg,asprinkle of salt and pepper,and a spoonful of heavy cream.Dotwith butter and bakeina hotoven until the eggs are just set.

- R eb e c( '" a F r ee dman

Ginger-RhubarbSparklerIna saucepan, combine 11b.coarsely chopped rhubarb,2cups sugar,some slicesof freshginger,and 2cups water. Bringto a boil, reduce to a simmer.and cook until the rhubarb isvery soft; strain. Add freshlemon juice to taste and chill.Pour the syrup into Champagneflutes and top with sparklingwine. -Melissa Denchok Braised Sugar SnapPeas and Radishes

Melt some butter in a skilletand add sugar snap peas andquartered red radishes. Add alittle chicken broth and cook,partially covered, until theradishes are just tender. Stir ina splash of sherry vinegar andtop with chopped fresh mint,tarragon, or chervil.

-Sarah Breckenridge

Chicken Soup withAvocado and CilantroIna saucepan, bring chickenbroth to a boil and seasonwithsalt. Add shredded cookedchicken and heat through.Divide diced avocado, coarselychopped fresh cilantro, andminced jalapeno among bowls;then add some of the broth andchicken and asqueeze of limejuice to each. -Shelley Wiseman.

~OIll~'Re:J%:DER'S SEASOIIIAI.>SPECIAl.:T~Spring Pea and Leek FettuccineBoil fettuccine in well-salted water until al dente; drain, reserving someof the pasta water. Saute sliced leeks in butter with salt and pepperuntil soft. Add shelled peas and lemon zest and cook until tend~r.Stir in the pasta, some of the cooking water, and fresh lemonjuice to taste; season with salt and pepper. Garnish withthinly sliced mint leaves. -Carol Peterman, Seattle

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creamy spinach and leekswith seared scallopsSweet leeks and rich cream mellow the slightly bitteedge of sauteed fresh spinach. Together; they maka luscious bed for seared scallops. Serves 4211, Tbs. unsalted butter12 oz. baby spinach (about 12loosely packed cups)2 medium leeks (white and l ight-green parts only), halvelengthwise, thinly sliced crosswise, and rinsed (about 1

Kosher salt2 large cloves garlic, minced% cup dry white wineY o cup heavy cream

Freshly ground black pepperPinch freshly grated nutmeg

2 Tbs. freshly grated Parmigiano-Reggiano16 large dry-packed sea scallops4 tsp. vegetable oil

Melt v ., Tbs. of the butter in a 12-inch skillet over medium-heat. Add half of the spinach and cook, tossing with tongs,just wilted, about 2 minutes. Transfer with tongs to a colandover a bowl; let drain and cool slightly. Repeat with the remspinach (you don't need to add more butter). Squeeze haof the spinach to release as much liquid as possible.Discard any liquid in the skillet. Melt the remaining 2 Tbs.over medium heat and then add the leeks and a pinch of sCook until softened but not browned, about 5 minutes. Adgarlic and cook, stirring, for 1minute more. Add the wine, rthe heat to medium high, and cook until almost evaporatedabout 2 minutes. Add the cream and simmer until it's thickand coats the backof a spoon, about 2 minutes. Season w]I, tsp. salt, agenerous grind of pepper, and the nutmeg. Stcheese and gently fold in the spinach. Keep warm.Pat the scallops dry and remove the side muscle if still attIn a 12-inch nonstick skille t, heat 2 tsp. of the oil over mediuheat until shimmering hot. Season the scallops with salt anper. Add half of the scallops to the pan and cook, undisturbuntil browned on the bottom, 2 to 3 minutes. Flip and contito cook until just opaque in the center, about 2 minutes mTransfer to a plate and tent with foil to keep warm. Repeatthe remaining 2 tsp. of oil and the scallops. Serve the scalloover the spinach.


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japanese spinachwith sesame and soyInJapan, this simple dish IS oftenserved cold. Try it as a first-coursesalad or as a side for salmon.Grinding the sesame seeds for thedressing brings out their nuttyflavor and toasty aroma. Serves 4

Kosher saltlb. baby spinach (about 16looselypacked cups)

2 Tbs. plus 1tsp. toasted sesame seedstsp. granulated sugar

4% tsp. soy sauceTbs. unseasoned rice vinegar

% tsp. Asian sesame oil

Bring an a-quart pot of salted water toa boil. Filla medium bowl with ice water.Add the spinach to the pot, pressingit into the water with a slotted spoon,and cook for 20 seconds. Remove withthe spoon and plunge into the ice water.Transfer the spinach to a colander,spreading itout to drain. Using a clean,folded dishtowel, press down on thespinach to remove as much water as pos-sible. Toss the spinach, spread it out, andpress it again if necessary, using a freshtowel. Line a baking sheet with paper tow-els, spread the spinach on top, cover withpaper towels, and chil l for 30 minutes.Using a spice grinder, grind 2 Tbs. ofthe sesame seeds with Y o , tsp. of thesugar. In a medium bowl, combine theremaining Y o , tsp. sugar with the soysauce, vinegar, and sesame oil. Stir inthe ground sesame seeds.Add the chilled spinach and gently tossit with your hands, separating anyclumps. Serve sprinkled with theremaining sesame seeds.

In this dish, Greekspanakopita (a phyl/o, spinach, and feta pie) IS " ~ ;. ~ ".~ ;. _ _ .J.a buttery, f laky puff pastry turnover. Serve with a lemony tomato salad.2 Tbs. plus 2tsp. olive oil

1)1, lb. baby spinach (about 24 looselypacked cups)large yellow onion, finely choppedbunch scallions, trimmed and thinly sliced

2 large cloves garlic, minced3 large eggsplus 2 large eggyolks

Kosher salt and freshly ground blackpepperYo tsp. freshly grated nutmegY o cup packed finely chopped fresh dil lY o cup packed finely chopped freshflat-leaf parsley)I, oz. (Y o cup) freshly grated Pecorino

Romano8 oz. feta, crumbled (about 2cups)

17.3-0'. package frozen Pepperidge Farmpuff pastry sheets, thawed according topackage directions

Position racks in the upper and lower thirdsof the oven and heat the oven to 375F.Heat 2 t sp. of the oil in a 12-inch skillet overmedium-high heat. Add a batch of spinachand toss with tongs until just wilted, about2 minutes. Transfer with tongs to a colanderset over a bowl, and let drain. Repeat withthe remaining spinach (don' t add more oil).Wipe the pan dry, reduce the heat tome-

dium, and add the remaining 2 Tbs.oil . Add the onion and scall ions

and cook until softened,about 4 minutes. Add thegarlic and cook, stirring,for 1minute more. Re-move from the heat andlet cool.In a large bowl, l ightly

beat the 3 whole eggs. Sea-son with Y, tsp. salt, a generous

grind of black pepper, and the nutmeg.Stir in the dil l, parsley, and pecorino. Gentlystir inthe feta.

Squeeze handfuls of the spinach to releaseas much liquid as possible; then pull apartthe clumps with your fingers. Add the spin-ach and the onion mixture to the eggs andstir gently to combine.Line 2 large rimmed baking sheets withparchment. Without unfolding, cut one pas-try sheet crosswise into thirds (refr igeratethe other sheet). On a lightly floured worksurface, unfold a third of the pastry, cut itinto thirds, and roll each piece into a 4-inchsquare. Transfer the squares to the bakingsheets. Repeat with the 2 remaining thirds toyield 9 squares. Spread about Y, cup of thefil ling over each square inan even layer,leaving a %-inch border on all sides.In a small bowl, whisk the 2 egg yolks and2 tsp. water. Lightly brush the egg wash overthe pastry borders. Cut the other pastrysheet as above, but roll each piece into a5-inch square. Place the squares over thefilling and press the top and bottom edgesof the pastries together to seal.Brush the top of each with the remainingegg wash and cuta small ventto allow steamto escape. Bake, swapping and rotating thebaking sheets' positions halfway throughbaking, until a knife inserted into the fil lingcomes out clean and the pastry is puffedand deep golden, about 20 minutes. Let coolon the baking sheet for 15minutes, cut eachsquare inhalf on the diagonal, and serve.MAKEAHEADFreeze unbaked and unglazed spanakopitasin plastic wrap for up to 2 weeks. Beforebaking, thaw them overnight in the refrigera-tor. Whisk 1egg yolk with 1tsp. water andbrush on each pastry. Cut a small vent in thepastries and bake as above.L ar ain e P er ri iiia f oo d w rite r a nd re ciped ev el op er w h o l iv e_ s i n . . New Y ork City.

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VinegarThis pantry staple is one of the most useful ingredients in your kitchen. Here's why.BY DAVID JOACHIM AND ANDREW SCHLOSS

THEREAREDOZENSOFTYPES OF VINEGAR.Anything that contains Rugal',from grapes torice, can be made into this common ingredient.It's a two-step process: First, yeast feeds onthe sugar and ferments it into alcohol; second,harmless bacteria called Acetobacter feed onthe alcohol and ferment it into a sour-tastingbyproduct, which the French first dubbed in a i gr e, or "sour wine." That sourness, oracidity, is essential to our enjoyment offood-look no further than a salad dressing,sauce, or marinade to taste why.But asidefrom enhancing flavor, vinegar also has theunique ability to alter the color and texture offoods.Read on to learn how it works its magic.Why does vinegar taste sour?Acids are volatile molecules that release posi-tive hydrogen ions. These ions have a pro-


found effect on the other molecules in foods(more on that later). They can also affect thecells in your body, but fortunately our tastebuds help us regulate the amount of freehydrogen ions we eat bymaking us perceiveacids as sour tasting. A small amount makesfoodtaste bright and fresh, while too muchtastes unpleasantly sour.Most vinegars don't just taste sour, though.

The acid in vinegar is primarily acetic acid,which makes up 4 to 7 percent oftable vinegars.Distilledwhite vinegar, for example, is 5 percentacetic acid and 95 percent water; it has theharsh sourness ofacetic acid alone. In othervinegars, that harshness is tamed by otheracids. Red wine vinegar tastes of tartaricacid, the structure-building acid inwine, andapple cider vinegar has the green apple flavorofmalic acid. Depending on the variety,

vinegar can contribute sweet, butand savory flavors, as well as woofrom aging in wooden barrels, evbalsamic and sherry vinegars.How does vinegar affectcolor of fruits and vegetaThe hydrogen ions released fromdisplace magnesium in the chloromolecules ofgreen vegetahles, tugreen chlorophyll a drab olive colwhy flavoring broccoli with vinegit. Tokeep green vegetables froming, flavor them with nonacidic ininstead, such as citrus zest, herbsVinegar has the opposite effec

pigments kno-wnas anthocyanins:red fruits and vegetables like souand red cabbage. Anthocyanins a


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under acidic conditions and turn blue underalkaline conditions. When boiled in alkalinecooking water (urban water is often madealkaline to prevent pipe erosion), red cabbageturns turquoise blue. Similarly, sour cherriesdevelop a blue outer ring in muffins becausebaking powder makes the batter alkaline. Thetrick to keeping anthocyanin pigments brightred is to maintain acidic conditions. Cookingred cabbage with vinegar keeps it red; cherriesstay red in muffins ifthere's a little vinegar(or another acid, likebuttermilk) in the batter.Vinegar can also preserve the color

ofwhite-fleshed produce like apples andpotatoes, which discolor when cut. The cutcells release enzymes that cause phenoliccompounds previously held within the cellsto bond with oxygen, creating hrown-tintedmelanin pigments in the flesh. Adding an acidlike vinegar slows down the enzyme activityand helps prevent browning.How does vinegar alterthe texture of food?Vinegar's free hydrogen ions interact withproteins and starches, altering their molecu-lar structure and changing their texture and

FOOD SCIENCE

consistency. Here are some of the practicalways vinegar can affect texture:Itcoagulates protein. Vinegar breaks thechemical honds that hold protein stringsin a twist, causing the proteins to denatureor unravel and "tenderize." This commonlyoccurs when meat is marinated in a vinegar-based marinade. With continued exposure toacid, the unraveled protein strings eventu-ally bump into each other and form newbonds. These bonds gradually coagulate theproteins, re-forming them into a much morerigid structure. 'I'he popular South Americanraw dish ceviche isbased on acid's abili ty todenature and coagulate protein without heat:sliced raw fish is "cooked" in acidic ingredi-ents until opaque and firm, but without theflavor changes that would occur if the fishwere exposed to high temperatures. (On theother hand, acids can "overcook" meats whenthey marinate for too long, ultimately makingthem mushy)Similarly, when fresh milk is mixed

with vinegar, milk proteins called "casein"coagulate into curds. Buttermilk, yogurt,sour cream, and cheese are all based on thisthickening effect. Incheesemaking, the acidis usually produced through the fermentationof lactobacillus bacteria, but simple cheeseslikecottage cheese can be made by addingvinegar to fresh milk.Protein coagulation also occurs when you

poach eggs in water with vinegar. The heat ofthe poaching liquid alone causes the egg pro-teins to form bonds that help the egg white setneatly around the yolk, but with the additionof vinegar, these bonds form earlier. Becausethe proteins coagulate before they are unrav-eled fully bythe heat, they can't intertwine andbond as tightly with one another. As a result,the cooked eggs are more tender.It keeps pasta from sticking. When pasta iscooked in alkaline tap water, calcium andmagnesium ionsin the water can cause thepasta to release more starch, making it stickyon the surface. Adding a tablespoon ofvinegar to the pasta water acidifies the waterand reduces stickiness. This is helpful whenusing pasta in a salad, where stickiness is .undesirable, and the flavor of the vinegar justblends in with the tartness of the dressing,Itthins overly thickened sauces. Whenyou add a touch ofvinegar to a sauce that'sthickened with flour or cornstarch, the acid

HOW ACIDIC ISVINEGAR?The acidity of an ingredient ismeasured byitpH. Pure water isconsidered neutral and hasa pHof 7.Anything with a pHhigher than 7 iscalled alkaline. Anything with a pHlower than7isacidic, and the lower the pHnumber, thestronger the acid. The pHscale is logarithmic.which means that each number inthe scaledescribes acidity that is10times strongerthan the number preceding it." PHO F C OI1!,:!O RA QIO IC IN GR EO IEI'f[S ,~~~~Lemon juice 2.1 strongestVinegar 3Orangejuice 3.2Applejulce 3.5r----"Wine 3.3-3.7Tomato juice 4Yogurt/buttermilk 4.5Milk 6.7Pure water 7 weakest- - - ,_

breaks the starch chains that thicken thesauce into shorter pieces, which thins out thesauce much more than the same amount ofwater or other nonacidic liquid would.Itmakes high-rising egg foams. When youbeat egg whites for a meringue or souffle,tough proteins can coagulate into tiny lumps,making the heaten whites grainy. Adding abou\4 teaspoon vinegar per egg white slows theformation of sulfur bonds (the tightest andtoughest honds involved in protein coagula-tion), sothat the beaten whites are silky andglossy and rise higher and more evenly whenbaked. The flavor ofsuch a small amount ofvinegar is barely noticeable. (Cream of tar taris an acid and works the same way.)It maintains the texture of cooked beans.Plant cells contain substances called hemicelluloses, which act as a kind of glue to holdthe cells together. Acids make hemicel1ulosesmore stable and less soluble. That's whybaked beans that are cookecl in a sweet-and-sour sauce can be simmered for hours andreheated repeatedly without disintegrating.D avid Joachim and A ndrew S chloss are the au th or s o f th e a wa rd -w in nin g r efe re nc e b oo k TheScience of Good Food. T he ir la te st b oo k is FireIt Up: 400 Recipe~ fo; Grilling Everything.

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Great Finds

GO SHOPPING

Our latest buys for the kitchen and table. BY MEL I SSA DEN CHAK

Emerald Isle BlueHandmade in Ireland'sCounty Tipperary,Kerrygold Cashel Blueis a crumbly , semi-soft

cheese. It's rich and but-tery, with an earthy tang, a

pleasantly pungent aroma, anda barn-y flavor that practically singsof grazing cows and rolling pastures.8 oz, for $11,99, 3-lb, wheel for $59,99;igourmet.eom; 877-446-8763.

Wine Glass 101With the new Key to Wine set from Riedel. oenophiles canexperience how the shape, size, and rim diameter of a glassimpacts the aroma, mouthfeel, and flavor profile of their fa-vorite wines. Each of the five glasses is fine-tuned to enhancespecific grape varietals like Pinot Nair and Rieslingand ismarked 50 you know whichwinetopourin it. $59; (_ .. ~\glassware.riedel,com; 888-474-3335. ....____

Brown Rice = Better RisottoFor risotto with a deliciously nutty,slightly chewy texture, we love Inte-grale organic brown rice. It not onlyproduces creamy-rich results, butwith its bran left intact, it's also agreat source of nutrients and fiber.2.2-lb. box for $22; marxfoods.com; 866-588-6279.

UnderCoverThese colorful blade guards are a simplesolution for storing and transporting knivesof all sizes. Magnetized on the inside to guaran-tee a nonslip grip, they're also flexible and can betrimmed to the perfect length. From $14.95 for two;cheftools.com; 206-933-0700.

26 FINE COOKING, APR/MAY 2012

A FreestyleFruit BaskInspired byform whenhits water,fruit basketmann Copea simple, opthat allowsto circulatefor even ripof l ightweighit can sit onhang. or beand stored$25; zincdet415-776-2100

Spring TonicBased on an 18th-centuryrhubarb tea, Rhuby is aaromatic spirit with a skick and delicious floralfrom rhubarb and a mebeets, lemons, carrots,pink peppercorns, andingredients, it's great msoda water, honey, andjuice. $29.99 for a 750-mhitimewine.net; 800-33


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The perfection of butter cookiesShe didn't know it at the lime, but she was learning a lesson in the value of simplecooking with the best Ingredients. BY DORIEGREENSPAN '

COOK STORY

I CHATTED Vi"lTH MME FA,~RE in a Parisiancafe, followed her home for dinner, and havebeen gratefu to her with every French buttercookie I've eaten since.Dinncr'~as decades ago:Iwas

recently married, had just. graduatedfrom college, and was alone in Paris,I was about to start graduate schooland, while I'd beguntcachlng myselfto cook the day a(ter I marriedMichael, it would be another 10before I would even begin toas a life.Had I been'a littlelittle less eager to practice my rcrencn-c-ramight have ignored Madame as sge peered,over my shoulder, shamelessly reading myjournal. And 1might not have respondedwhen she exclaimed so loudly that headsturned, "Ah,you Write English! My-niecewants to learn the language and marry anAmerican. Come home for dinner!"Mine Fabre. and her apartnient overlooking

the Seine were as eccentric ,as her invitation:There were books everywhere, music boxes, too,and the small, low-ceilinged dining room wasdominated by a life-size carrouselhorse, (As Iate, I could reach over and pat its nose.)Madameand her niece had dressed for dinner, and hadI known she was serving a poulet deBresse=-or had I even known what that pedigreed,astronomically expensive chicken was=-I,too, would have gotten dolled up to honor it,The chicken was.the main-course; 'uctmilly,

the only course. It had been oven-roasted ina copper pot with carrots and potatoes, andwith each bite I took, Mme Fabre would tellme a little something about the ingredients.The carrots had been grown in sand, thepotatoes grew near sea water-if you concen-trate, you can taste the salt, she told me-andeverything M"dbeen basted over and overagain with butter; ., 'With the mention ofbutter, Madame went

to the kitchen, returning wiJh a cracked .'pottery plate holding a hUlll


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2 soft, plump vanilla beans16 cup granulated sugar8 oz. (1 cup) unsalted butter, preferablyhigh-fat European-style, softenedY o tsp, fine sea salt1y, oz. (16 cup) confectioners ' sugar, sifted2 large egg yolks9 oz. (2cups) unbleached all-purposeflourSanding sugar, white or colored

Cut the vanilla beans in half lengthwiseand scrape the seed pulp into a small, bowl;add the granulated sugar, Usingyourfin-gers, rub them together until blended.In as tand mixer fitted with the paddleattachment or in a large bowl with a handmixer, mix the butter on low speed untilsmooth and creamy (you don't want it toget light and fluffy), about 1minute; mixin the salt. Add the vanilla sugar and theconfectioners' sugar and mix until smooth,

'" " .vanilla-bean sable cookies,the voniliabeatis, stash the pods ina canister of sugar to make vanilla-sugar. If youextract for the vanilla beans; add itwith the egg yolk. Yields about 2 dozen cooktes

about 1minute. Scrape down the bowl asneeded. Add 1 egg yolk and mix for 1 min-ute. Still on low speed, mix in the flour justuntil blended; the dough will be soft.Turn the dough out onto the counter andknead it gently afew times. Divide it in halfand shape each half into a 9-inch log, Wrapthe logs in plastic wrap and refrigerate for atleast 3hours. (You can also freeze them forup to 2 months. Let sit at room temperaturefor about 10minutes before cutting andbaking; there's no need toful ly defrost.)Position oven racks in the top and bottomthirds of the oven and heat the oven to350F Line two baking sheets with parch-ment or sil icone baking l iners.Sprinkle about Yocup sanding sugar ontoa pieceof.waxed paper. Combine theremaining egg yolk with a splash of waterin asmal: bowl and whisk with afork. Brusheach log with the egg wash and roll it in thesanding sugar until evenly coated. Trim the

ends ofthe logs if they're ragged. Usinga knife, cut the dough into Yo-inch-thickrounds. Put them on the baking sheets,leaving about 2 inches between rounds.Bake the cockles.rotating and swap-ping the baking sheets' posit ions halfwaythrough, until the cookies are brownaround the edges and golden on thebottom, 18to 22 minutes. Let coolonthe sheets for 5minutes; then carefullytransfer to a COoling rack and let cool co~-pletely beforeservlng. Sables shouldn't \ !ieeaten warm; they need to cool so thattheir texture will setptoperly,Packed in an airtight container, thecookies with keep for at least 4 days.Duri e G r ee n sp an i the al1!ard-winl l ing

r 0!1O corikbooks; he r la te st isAround My French table. S he a lso h asa new i Pa d a pp , B ak in g with Dorie.

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REPE~TOIRE

HOW TO MAKE

Scrambled EggsSure, they're easy to make, but there are actually a few tricksto the creamiest, most delicious eggs you've ever tasted.BY DAVID BARRYFOR NEARLY THREE YEARS, I taught a class at the Culinary Institute of America calledBreakfast Cookery. Itstarted at 1:30a.m. Teaching students how to make breakfastthis early in the day was challenging enough, but teaching them how to properlyscramble an egg? That was something else entirely.Most people think they know how to scramble an egg, but for truly tender, creamy

results, there are a few things you need to learn-key among them is when to removethe eggs from the heat so they're neither runny nor overcooked and rubbery. Youalsohave to know how to treat the eggs in the pan, since the more attention you give them,the better they'll be.What follows are the simple scrambled egg tricks I teach my students. Put them to

use and you'll get soft, creamy results every time, even inthe wee hours ofthe morning.

Need to KnowScramble slowly over low heat. This reduces the risk of browning and overcook-ing,and gives you more control over the eggs' consistency.Stir, stir, stir. Eggproteins coagulate into curds asthey cook. Constant stirring,while gently shaking the pan, breaks down these curds sothey're smaller, softer,and creamier. Ifyou stir just once or twice, you'll get large eggclumps that haveafirmer, "meatier" texture and a rubbery mouthfeel.Move cooked eggsfrom the outside of the pen towards the center. Pansareoften hotter around the edge.Stirring the cooked portion to the middle and theraw portion to the outside evenly scrambles the eggs.Cook the eggsuntil barely set, "barely" being the operative word. The eggswillcontinue to cook with residual heat even after they're removed from the pan(this isknown ascarryover cooking). Pull them off the heat when they still lookwet but not runny.


Don't Judge aby Its ColThe next time you stock uponthkeep these points inmind: Theonly difference between wbrown eggsisthe breed of henthem: otherwise, they taste thgoesfor eggyolks,too-their cies based ona hen's feed, hasquality. Fora nutritional boostomega-3 eggs,which come frodiet rich inheart-healthy flaxs Eggshave porous shells,so thand absorb odors easily.Storefrom strong-smelling foods, wrounded end facing up-there'sthis sidethat protects against

Eggsare best consumed withinthough they canberefrigeratefor up to amonth. The freshesstraight from the farm orfarmdetermine the freshness of sulookfor the Juliandate, a threenear the expiration date that iof the year the eggswere packmarked "001" waspacked Janindicates December 31.

Usec:hopsticks to stir your eggthey gentle onnonstick surfaceexcellent at breaking the eggsiIf you don't havechopsticks onheatproof silicone spatula or ainstead.

For sources, see W


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Combine the cake flour, whole-wheat pastryflour, ~Ring powder, and salt ina medium bowl.Put the butter in a large bOwl and beat withan electric hand mixer on medium speed untilsmooth, about 3 minutes. Gradually add halfof the st;gar and continue to beat until fluffy,about 2 minutes. Add the oil and remainingY z cup sugar and continue to beat until lighter'ir color, about 2 minutes more. Add the eggsone at t ime, beating well after each addition.Beat inthe applesauce unti l combined.On ed, add half oft!:!eflour mixture

er mlxture, then nalfofthe milk,

Put the raspberries in a 1-quart saucepanand COOKover medium heat until they beginto r~leas~ thllir joke and break clown, about5 minutes. Strain the berries through a finesieve set over a small bowl, pressing with aspatula FOextract all of the juice \you shouldhave about Y.cup):.Discard the seeds. Letcool to room temperature.Combinethe cream cheese and confec-tio.,ers' sugar in amediuru DOw!.Beat withan electric hand mixer on high speed untilsmooth,about 2 minutes. Add the raspberry

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DRINKS

Spring in a GlassAromatic white wines from France's Vouvray region are a perfect matchfor spring cooking. BY SOPH IE HELE NE MENIN

VOUVRAY)' THE PICTURESQUE FREREGION on the northern bank oRiver, is known the world-overeponymous white wines made fBlanc grapes. The wines' aromaible, evoking blooming orchardsstony brooks, with notes of acacitrus, and ripe apricots, balanc


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flavors and sugars. Like Sauternes, anothericonic dessert wine, these Vouvrays are aperfect match for rich cheeses and cream-or fruit-based desserts because the wines'earthy sweetness and acidity complementsand brightens rich, sugary foods.

Drink it now, or laterAs if Vouvray's natural acidity, intensevarietal character, variety of styles, andaffordability (even the best bottles can bepurchased tor under $40) weren't enough,they're also a collector's dream because

juice. So be sure to look for winemakers whoconsistently produce outstanding Vouvrays,such as Huet, Foreau, Champalou, Domainedes Aubuisieres, Domaine de la Taille auxLoups , and Chidaine,Vintage also matters when buying Vouvray

because the wines are so dependent on thequality and character of the Chenin Blancharvest. Over the past decade, the 2002,2005, and 2010 vintages were the best, fol-lowed closely in quality by the 2003, 2006,and 2009 vintages. Look for Vouvray bottledduring any of those years and you won't bedisappointed.

Vouvray can be sparkling,dry, or sweetWhile all Vouvrays are made from 100 per-cent Chenin Blanc, the wines are anything buthomogenous. They come in a range of styles:sparking tpetillant), dry (sec), off-dry (demi-sec), and sweet (moelleux). With so many dif-ferent options coming from the same grape,you could easily prepare a four-course mealand offer a different and distinctive Vouvraywith each item on the menu.Sparkling Vouvrays are the ideal aperitif.

Produced in the same manner as Cham-pagne, they have gentle bubbles that go wellwith briny oysters, creamy deviled eggs, andmost hors d'oeuvres."Sec" Vouvrays are dry, almost chalky,

with tinges of lemon, quince, and honey.These wines are ideal served with firstcourses or lighter meals, such as a goatcheese salad or grilled brook trout."Demi-sec" Vouvrays are truly beguiling.

These off-dry wines possess deeper, moreconcentrated almond and truffle flavors andoften a little residual sugar, which lends thema slightly sweet impression. Their compellingbalance of sweet and savory flavors practi-cally begs for umami-rich foods with similarcomplexity and depth, like morels with creamand f ines herbes, and roasted veal loin.Sweet "moelleux" Vouvrays are made with

ripe grapes affected by the botrytis fungus(also known as noble rot), which causes thegrapes to shrivel, thereby concentrating their

Vouvrays to Try, from Sparkling to SweetExplore Vouvray's wide range of styles through these six bottles.SPARKLING (PETILLANT)Domaine Huet Brut Vouvray Petillant, 2005 ($29)Gentle bubbles and the flavors of quince, chamomile, and mint make thiswine a delightful alternative to Champagne. Serve with seafood, canapes,and fruit desserts.

DRY (SEC)Champalou Vouvray, 2010 ($20)This refreshing Vouvray offers livelyacidity and hints of lemon, herbs,and honeysuckle. It's a vibrant partner for salads, quiches, and souffles.Foreau Domaine du Clos Naudin Vouvray Sec,2006 ($31)Elegant and complex, this dry Vouvray has a bouquet of apple blossomsand honey and a long, stony finish. Serve with fish and poultry.Fran~ois Pinon Vouvray Silex Noir, 2009 ($20)This wine showcases Chenin Blanc's characteristic honey and greenapple flavors alongside notes offlint and oyster shells. Serve with meatywhite fish, such as halibut or red snapper, and spring vegetables.

OFF-DRY (DEMI-SEC)Domaine Huet LeHaut-Lieu Demi-5ec, 2009 ($36)This succulent wine offers quince, truffle, bit ter citrus, and tropical fruitflavors; it can be savored now or aged for decades. Serve with veal, ripecheeses, and fru ity or creamy desserts.

SWEET (MOELLEUX)Fran"ois Pinon Vouvray cuvee Botrytis, 2005 ($30/500 ml)A silky.golden-hued special-occasion wine, this Vouvray exudes tropicalfruit and bitter citrus flavors, along with mineral and truffled honey un-dertones. Sip iton its own to experience Chenin Blanc at its most poetic,orserve itwith something sweet and indulgent.

they age so well. In particular, the off-dryand sweet styles can evolve in the bottle forseveral decades, remaining fresh and vibrantall the while. Time softens their acidity andtransforms their citrus, herb, and honey fla-vors into almonds, caramel apples, and exoticfruits. Simply put, if you age a good bottle ofVouvray for anywhere" from a few years to afew decades, you'll one day drink a treasure.S op hie H e le ne M e nin is a w in e a nd trav el w rite rw ho se w ork h as a pp ea red in The New YorkTimes, Wine Spectator, a nd T he D aily B ea st.

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l l rel i tchRoastThis centuries-old cooking technique gives you a succulent,mouthwatering roast with a built-in side dish. BY ARLENE JACOBSLONGBEFORE PEOPLE HAD THEIR OWN GAS ORELECTRIC OVENS, a cook needed an awfullot of fuel, usually wood, to cook a roast. Villagers throughout France solved this problemby bringing their roasts to tbe local bakery (or boulangerie) . After the baker's work wasdone for the day, they would leave their large cuts of meat, usually set over a pan ofpotatoes, in the lingering coals of his oven. As the meat cooked, the potatoes nestledbelow absorbed the savory juice it released. By the time the coals went out, each villagerhad a perfectly cooked main dish with a delicious potato side, all in one. (Recipes forpo mm es d e terre a l a bou lange re , or boulangcre potatoes, were inspired by this tradition.)

These days, few, if any, cooks have a baker's oven at their disposal. Fortunately, thismethod works perfectly well in home ovens, too. All you need is a nice cut of meat-think leg of lamb, pork loin, or a whole chicken-a pile of potatoes (and other veg-etables, if you like) and an ovenproof skillet or a roasting pan. The cooking is mostlyhands-off: The potatoes and vegetables, sometimes precooked just a bit for better tex-ture and caramelization, are arranged in the pan, the meat goes on top, and the ovenis left to do its lhing. It's a simple, time-tested method that offers big-time rewards.

MAKE YOUR BEDPotatoes) Aromatic

The roast may be the main dish, but it's the bed of rich, tender potatoes and othar vecatabtssneath it that really steals the show, especially ifyou know which ones to use. Here's what I likebest:

Think this herb-and-garlic-studdedleg of lamb looks good now? Turn thepage to see it inall its roasted glory.

POTATOESRed potatoes, l ikeRed Bliss,become tenderbut still hold their shape when roasted. Theyhave a thin skin, waxy, Eeamytexture, andcontain less starch anif'more water thanrusset potatoes, whichtavoid forthis method,as they tend to crumble.Yellow potatoes are similar to red potatoesbut are a bit starchier, less waxy, and have aslightly lower water content. Their smooth,buttery texture lends itself wellto roasting. TryYukon Gold, YellowFinn, or Baby Dutch Yellow.Fingerling potatoes vary incolor, size, andstarch and water content. Regardless ofvariety, they generally have a firm, waxytexture and are great for roasting.

AROMATIC VEGETABLESRoot vegetables likecarrots, celery root,parsnips, turnips, and salsify have a sweet,earthy note that intensifies as panjuice is....absorbed, These are naturally firm and canwithstand high temperatures and long cookingtimes without disintegrating into mush.Alliums develop a great depth of flavor withlong cooking. Onions (yellow, cipolline, orpearl) take on a mellow, nutty sweetness;leeks practically melt, becoming lusciouslysweet; and garlici:1ecomes tender and rich.HERBSResinous herbs likethyme, rosemary, mar-joram, savory, and sage add complexity andwonderful aromatic notes.

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Remove the meat from the refrigerator andlet sit at room temperature for 30 minutesbefore roasting. Meanwhile, posit ion a rack inthe center of the oven and heat the oven to375F.Toss the potatoes with the olive oil in a10x15-inch (or similar) roasting pan until wel lcoated. Season with salt and pepper andarrange cut side down in a single layer.Sprinkle the lamb all over with 1 Tbs. saltand set it on the potatoes. Roast until aninstant-read thermometer inserted in thethickest part reaches 135F for medium rareand the potatoes are tender when piercedwith a fork, about 1%hours.Transfer the roast to a serving platter orcarving board, cover loosely with foil, and letrest for 20 to 30 minutes. Keep the potatoeswarm in the turned-off oven.Serve the roast whole or carved with thepotatoes arranged around it.

rosemary-garlic roast leg of lamb with red potatoesAn overnight rest allows the Provencal blend of herbs and garlic that dot thisleg of lamb to infuse the meat. Arranging the potatoes cut side down in a singlelayer beneath the lamb guarantees maximum caramelization. Serves 6 to 8

How to Carve a Leg of L ambFor the most tender slices of lamb, you'll want to cut the meat across the grain, and thatmeans slicing it perpendicular to the bone. To do this, grab a sharp slicing knife and fol-low these steps:

4%-lb. bone-in shank half of a leg of lamb(see Test Kitchen, p. 85)

2 to 3 large cloves garlic, sliced into Ya-inchslivers

2 6-inch rosemary sprigs, separatedinto clusters of 3 to 5 leaves eachTbs. freshly cracked black pepper

1% Tbs. dried lavender, crushed2 lb. medium red potatoes (about 10),

quartered3 Tbs. olive oil

Kosher sal t and freshly groundblack pepper

Pat the lamb dry with paper towels.With a small paring knife, make adeep sl i t t hrough the fat layer on theroast and insert a sliver of garlic anda rosemary leaf cluster. Repeat every2 inches over the fat layer, using all of

the garlic and rosemary. Sprinkle the roastwith the cracked pepper and lavender.

and refr igerate overnight.

Cut off a few slices of meat parallel to thebone on the underside of the leg so it hasa flat surface to rest on (not pictured).Lay the leg on the cut side and make aseries of vertical slices, to your preferredthickness, down to the bone.

Turn the knife so that it's parallel tothe bone and release the slices by makingone long horizontal cut along the bone.Repeat on the remaining sides as neces-sary to carve all the meat from the bone.

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3

chicken to a platter,remove the string, cover Iwith foil, and let rest for about 15 minutes. Mean-while, discard the thyme sprigs and bay leaf and keepthe vegetables warm in the turned-off oven.Sprinkle the potatoes with the chopped parsley,arrange them around the chicken, and serve.

roast chicken with fingerlingpotatoes, leeks, and baconSauteing the leeks and garlic before layering them withthe potatoes renders them melt ingly tender and slightlycaramelized. The roast chicken on top comes out incrediblyjuicy, with delicate herbal notes. Serves 4

3*- to 4-lb. whole chickenKosher salt and freshly ground black pepper

2 Tbs. f inely chopped fresh parsley,plus 10small sprigs4 fresh or dried bay leaves

Tbs. finely chopped fresh thyme, plus4 sprigs4 large leeks,white and l ight-green partslengthwise, then sliced crosswise into%-inch pieces (about 4 cups) and rinsdark-green parts from 1leek rinsed

reserved

Tbs.oliveoil2 large cloves garlic, thinly sliced1%

1%2

Discard the giblets from thetrim off any excess fat from the cavitand neck, and pat dry with paper towelsGenerously season the chicken insideand out with 1Tbs. salt and Y, tsp.Stuff the cavity with the parsley3 of the bay leaves (if fresh, crush2 sprigs of thyme, and the dark leekTuck the wings behind the neck of theusing the wing tips to secure any loose neckif necessary. Tie the legs together with str ing.rest at room temperature for 20 to 30 minutes.Meanwhile, position a rack in the center of the ovenand heat the oven to 450F.In a 12-inch ovenproof skillet, cook the bacon in the oilmedium-high heat, stirr ing occasional ly, until i t begins toabout 7 minutes. Leaving the bacon in the pan, spoon out and reservea.11ut 1Tbs. fat.Reduce the heatto medium and add the leeks, garlic, and the remain-ing bay leaf and thyme sprigs, and season lightly with salt and pepper.Cook, stirring occasionally, until the leeks are soft and translucent, 5 to7 minutes. Transfer to a plate.In the same pan, arrange half of the potatoes in an even layer, seasonvery lightly with salt and pepper, then scatterthe leek mixture over top.Layer the remaining potatoes overthe leeks, and season very l ightlywith salt and pepper. Pour the broth over the vegetables.Pour 1Tbs. of the reserved bacon fat into the cavity of the chicken.Rub the softened butter over the bird's skin, and sprinkle with thechopped thyme. Set the chicken, breast side up, on the vegetables.Roast the chicken until an instant-read thermometer inserted into thethickest part of the thigh registers 165F to 170F, about 1hour.

A rlen e Ja co bs is a re cipe d ev elo per a nd free la nce fo od w riter w ho live s inM anh attan . S he ta ug ht at th e F rench C ulin ary In stitute in N ew Y ork C ityfo r th re e y ea rs , fo llo win g a za-year c ar ee r a s a , ch e/ C

For sources, see Where to Buy It FINECOOKING.COM 43


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pizza, from scratchChoose your doughflavor (plain, whole wheat, or cornmeal), pick a thickness (cracker-thin, regular Neapolitan-styextra-thick Sicilian-style), spread on our simple tomato sauce (recipe opposite), and add your choice of toppings

Make the doughOlive oil keeps this dough tender, and a little sugar encourages browning andboosts the flavor. You can double or triple this recipe. Yields 21b. dough, enoughfor 8cracker-thin crusts, 4Neapolitan-style crusts, or 1Sicilian-style crust plus2 cracker-thin crusts or 1Neapoli tan-style crust1% cups lukewarm water (about 100'F)

Tbs. extra-virgin olive oil2 tsp. kosher salt

1% tsp. dry yeast (fast-r ising or active dry)1% tsp. granulated sugar19 oz. (414 cups) unbleached all-purpose flour

Pour the water into a 3-quart bowl or large,l idded plastic food container. Using a woodenspoon, mix in the oil, salt, yeast, and sugar.Don't worry about dissolving all of the ingre-dients; just stir well to combine. Don' t bother"proofing" the yeast, either-it shouldn't fail ifused before its expirat ion date.

Add the flour and mix until uniformly moist.The dough will be quite wet; no kneading isnecessary.Loosely cover the bowl with plastic wrapor part ia lly cover the plastic container (leavethe lid open a crack to let gases escape). Letthe dough rise for 2 hours at room tempera-ture. The dough will fully expand and mayeven begin to collapse within this time.Do not punch down this dough-it willcollapse on Its own and later shrink while itchills in the refrigerator; it will never regain itsheight. and that's OK.Refrigerate the dough, loosely covered, forat least 3 hours before using. After 2 days,

After mixing, the dough will bewet and very sticky.A wet dough doesn' t require kneading because itdevelops gluten on its own as it rests. It also main-tains its r ising power for weeks in the refrigerator.


tightly cover the bowl or containesurface of the dough from dryingkeep in the refrigerator for up tocan also freeze the dough inwellJ.>-Ib.balls for up to 3weeks. Thathe refrigerator before using.)WHOLE-WHEAT DOUGH VARIATIOSubstitute 5 oz. (1cup) whole-whthe same weight of unbleachedflour, and add 2 Tbs. additional wCORNMEAL DOUGH VARIATIONSubstitute 5 oz. (1 cup) stone-grocornmeal for the same weight ofall-purpose flour, and add 1Tbs.olive oil.

Create your own pizza usactive Recipe Maker at Fin.com/extras.

After rising for 2 hours, the dough will have at leastdoubled in size. If a slightly darker skin forms ontop, don't worry. When you stretch the dough, itwill be reincorporated.


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MEATS AND SEAFOOD ZESTY FINISHESProsciutto or Soppressata, Capers: rinsed Fresh herbs, suchspeck: torn into pepperoni, Anchovies: rinsed as basil, rosemary,small pieces mortadel la. or and chopped chives, oregano.Thick slab bacon: other ready-to- Green or b lack and thyme:diced and cooked eat sausages: pitted olives: chopped orthinlyuntil just shy of thinly sliced sliced or halved sliced (leave smallcrisp Italian or other Salt-preserved basil leaveswhole,Grilled shrimp: fresh sausages: lemons: finely if you l ike)halved, If large cooked and chopped Roasted garlic:Grilled chicken crumbled Pickled peppers: peeledthighs: thinly sliced or thinly sliced drained Toasted pine nuts

CHEESES VEGETABLESFresh mozzarella: Gorgonzola: Roasted red Summer squash:cut or break into crumbled peppers: diced sliced lengthwise}'2-inch cubes or Aged sharp Ched- Cherry tomatoes: into ribbons withchunks dar: thinly sliced halved a vegetable peelerMozzarella di Provolone: thinly Fresh fennel: Button or creminibufala: cut or break sliced trimmed, cored, mushrooms: thinlyinto %-inch cubes Fresh whole-milk and thinly sliced slicedor chunks (Use ricotta: small Grilled asparagus: Onions or shallots:about 25% lessof dollops cut into 'l-inch thinly slicedthis creamy, fresh Goat cheese: pieces Roasted Brusselscheese, or the extra crumbled Rawpotato or sprouts: halvedmoisture it releases Camembert: sweet potato: Peas: thawed, ifcould make your thinly sliced peeled and very frozencrust soggy) Brie: thinly sliced thinly sliced ona mandoline


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Stretch the doughHow thin you stretch your dough will determine the amount ofsauce, cheese, ond other toppings you use on your pizza, andat what temperature oncrtor how long you bake it; refer to thecharts at r ight tor dough thickness, ingredient amounts, andcooking times.

At least3Q minutes before baking, position a rack in the bottomthird of the oven and if using a pizza stone, set it on the rack. (If youdon't have astone, use aheavy-duty 13x18-inch baking sheet lightlyoiled with extra-virgin olive oil.) Heat the oven according to the chartsat right. If us ing a pizza stone, dust a peel with unbleached all-purposeflour or stone-ground cornmeal.While the oven heats, lightly sprinkle the surface of the dough(in its bowl or container) with flour, Pull up a hunk of dough (see thecharts at right for am()unts), and cut it off with kitchen shears or aserrated knife. Generouslyflourthe dough and then stretch and tuckit under itself, giving it quarter turns as you form a ball of dough with asmooth top (see Photo above). Let rest on the work surface, coveredwith plastic wrap, for at least 30 minutes and up to 1hour.Once the dough has rested, the goal is to stretch it into a roundthat 's about 12inches across (refer to the charts at right to determinehow thick your round should be). To do this.very l ightlyflouryourworksurface and lay your dough ball h'l t he center of the floured area. Flouryour hands-and then. using your palms and fingertips, press andstretch the dowgh into a rough circle. Or use a floured rolling pin to rollthe dough into a circle; a rolling pinis particularly helpful when makingacracker-thin crust. If sticky spots occur, flour your fingertips (or vourrolling pin) and continue stretching the dough. Flip the dough occasion-ally so it doesn't stick t() the work surface. and use a dough scraper todetach the dough from the work surface if it does stick. If the doughcontinually contracts, let it rest. covered with plastic wrap, at roomtemperature for 10 to 15minutes before resuming the stretchingprocess. l t's DK ifyour dough isn't .a perfect circle.Transfer the stretched dough tothe prepared pizza peel or bakingsheet. (If making a Sicilian-style crust on a rimmed baking sheet, try topress the dough all the way out to the comers.)

48

Cracker-thin crust4 oz. dough = peach size

(serves 1)Dough 40z

Thickness Y16in

Cheese 2 oToppings Upt02

Oven temperature 550

If you'Ve never stretched pizza dough before. itbit of practice to roll out the dough for a crackerto an even thickness. Be patient. and use a comthe rolling pin and your fingers to stretch it to Y


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Neapolitan-style regular crust8 oz. dough = orange size

(serves 2)

Sicilian-style thick crust11 4 lb. dough = gr;;lpefruit size

(serves 4)Dough Boz. Dough 1Y2lb.

Thickness Y o inch Thickness Y2nchSauce lScup Sauce Scant 1cupCheese 4oz. Cheese Boz.Toppings Up toSoz. Up

Oven temperature 550F Oven temperature 500FBakingtime 10 minutes Baking time (pizza stone) 20 to 25 minutesBaking time (baking sheet) 13 to 15minutes Baking time (baking sheet) 25 to 30 minutes

Using your fingertips and palms to stretch the dough helpsyou gauge and control i ts thickness. If you want a definededge,leave a'I.-inch border that's slightly thicker than thecenter.

I f you're stretching a thick Sicil ian-style pizza on a bakingsheet, be sure to apply only a slight sheen of oi l to the sheet,or the pizza dough won't stay in the corners of the pan.

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Bake and serve the pizzaIf using a baking sheet, put it on the rack.If using a pizza stone, shake the peel a bit tomake sure the pizza isn't stuck and then slidethe pizza off the peel and onto the heatedstone. Aim for the back ofthe stone andplacethe end of the peel there. Mostofyoureffort should be in pul ling the peel smoothlytoward you, not flicking it away. This takes alittle practice, so don' t be discouraged if your

first attempts leave a few toppings on theoven floor.Bake, turning the pizza with a peel or tongsif one side browns faster than the other, untilthe crust is nicely browned and crisp andthe cheese is bubbly. Refer to the charts onpp. 48-49 for baking times.Transfer the pizza to a cutting board andlet stand for 1 to 2 minutes before cutting it

with a pizza wheel, kitchen shears, or a chef'sknife. If you haven't used any saltytoppingsl ike cured meats, olives, or anchovies, seasonl ightly with kosher salt, and serve.J eff H er tz be rg a nd Zoe Franco is 's t hi rd c oo k-book , Artisan Pizza and Flatbread in FiveMinutes a Day, c am e o ut la st O cto ber. Y ou ca nfin d th em o n th e w eb a t p iz za ir dic om : C

For sources, see Where to Buy It FINECOOKING.COM 51


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Photographs by Scott Phillips FINECOOKING.COM 55


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The pickling liquid used in thiscockta il is infused wi th ingredientsinspired by the original dish, includ-ing horseradish ( jar red, not f resh),lemon, and red pepper flakes,which s tand infor the traditionalhot pepper sauce.

~iIn a PickleShrimp get star billing in two wayin this recipe: as a flavoring for tdrink itself and as a pickled garni,

Good SpiritsHerbaceous gin and dry vermouthare paired with the briny, spicy,tangy pickling liquid for a trulyunusual and del icious cockta il .

. ,YQU Say TomatoThere's no cocktail sauce here,Instead, tomatoes are pickled askewered with the shrimp.

. .I THE UPDATE

Gina Chersevani, the award-winning mixologist ofPS 7's restaurant in Washington, DC,loves to pushthe envelope with her innovative, sophisticated cocktails. Here, she reinvents the classic appetizer

FINECOOKING.COM 5

as a "shrimp cocktail" cocktail, with spicy


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cherry tomatoes before blanchingso they're easier to peel.Setting the pot otpickledshrimp and tomatoes intbath (rather than putting,and tomatoes directly intwater) cools everything quiddiluting the flavor. ~

shrirnp cocktail martiniPairing the flavors of a shrimp cocktail with herbaceous gin and dry vermouth yieldsa playful, surprisingly delicious-dare we say, ingenious?-martini. You'll have leftoverpickled shrimp and tomatoes tomake a delicious first course: Simply toss with about2 Tbs. extra-virgin olive oiland serve with crusty bread Yields 6 cocktailsFOR THE PICKLED SHRIMP AND TOMATOES2 cups cherry tomatoes

1y;, cups Champagne vinegar5 Tbs.granulated sugar4 large sprigs fresh thyme

Tbs. prepared horseradishTbs. coriander seedsTbs. crushed red pepper flakesmedium lemon, peel and white pithremoved, sliced crosswise into 6 piecesKosher saltlb. extra-large shrimp (26 to 30 per lb.,preferably wild-caught), peeled anddeveined with tails left intact

FOR THE COCKTAILS12 fl. oz. gin (1y; , cups), preferably Bluecoat6 fl. oz. dry vermouth (14cup), preferablyDolin dry

For sources, see Where to Buy It

MAKE THE PICKLED SHRIMP AND TOMATOESBring a 4-quart saucepan of water to a boil overhigh heat. Have ready a large bowl of ice water.Score the bottom of each tomato with asmall X . Blanch the tomatoes in the boilingwater until you see the skin near the scoringlift, 30 to 60 seconds. Using aslotted spoon,transfer the tomatoes to the ice water tocool. Remove the tomatoes from the icewater and peel. Reserve the ice water, addingmore ice if the first batch has melted.In a 2- to 3-quart saucepan, bring 1V. cupswater and the vinegar, sugar, thyme, horse-radish, coriander, pepper f lakes, lemon, andy, tsp. salt to a boil over medium heat. Reducethe heat to a bare simmer. Add the shrimpfirst, then the peeled tomatoes. Cook, stirr ingconstantly, until the shrimp are pink and justcooked through, about 2 minutes. Plunge the

MAKE; THE COCKTAilSStrain the shrimp and tomato mixturethrough a medium-mesh sieve set over a1-quart measuring cup.For each cocktail, fill a mixing glass three-quarters full with ice. Add 2 f l. oz. ('4 cup)gin,1 f l. oz. (2 Tbs.) vermouth, and 4 fl. oz.(y,cup) of the shrimp pickling liquid. With along-handled spoon, stir until well chi lled,25 to 30 rotations. Strain into a chi lled mart iniglass. Skewer 1..picklec'lshrimp and 1tomatoon a toothpick and add it to the drink. Repeatto make 5more drinks.

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Sugar & Lemon Crepe Warm a crepe ina l it tle butter ina ski llet,sprinkle with sugar, and squeeze lemon juice over the top. RollintoI orfold into a triangle.SG'41:4ecO'PIOIE!.qlri#>eCook a peeled, diced apple ina little butter%*,i::iifli


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all-purpose brown-butter crepesThese crepes work in both savory and sweet recipes. The addition of brown buttergives them a flavor richer than that of the average crepe. As with pancakes, thefirst crepe you make is usually a flop, so count on sacrif icing it as you experimentwith the heat of the burner and the amount of butter in the pan. Yields aboutfourteen B-inch crepes3Yz oz.(7 Tbs.) unsalted butter; moresoftened for the pan1% cups whole milk; more as needed4 largeeggsYz tsp. kosher salt

6% oz. (1Yz cups) unbleached all-purpose flourIn a 1- to 2-quart saucepan, cook the butterover medium heat, swirling it every fewseconds, until melted and the milk solids atthe bottom of the pan turn golden-brown,2 to 4 minutes. Immediately pour the brownbutter into a small bowl and let cool almostto room temperature.Combine the milk, eggs, and salt in a blender.Blend for a few seconds to combi ne. Add theflour and blend until very smooth, about

Asyou pour the batter into the pan,tilt and turnit sothe batter spreads evenly. If there are anyholes inthe crepe. fill them in with afew moredrops of batter.


20 seconds. Add the brown butter and blendfor another 10 seconds.Pour the batter into a large bowl and let restfor at least 5 minutes and up to 24 hours. (Ifresting for more than 30 minutes. cover andrefrigerate.)When ready to cook the crepes, check thebatter; i t should be asthick as heavycream,not as thick as pancake batter. If it feels toothick, whisk in up to liz cup more milk.Heat a crepe pan with an B-inch base or a1O-inch nonstick skillet with an 8-inch base (seesidebar opposite for more information) overmedium-high heat until it's hot enough for adrop of water to sizzle. Using a folded papertowel, grease the pan with about J < I tsp. butter.The butter should sizzle upon contact but not

Tosee if your crepe isready to be flipped, liftup an edge with a small sil icone spatula or yourfingers. The edgesshould bedry and the bottomshould be nicely browned.

instantly turn brown. If it does, redas necessa ry.Using a ladle or measuring cup,of the batter into the center of thsimultaneously lifting the pan fromand tilting and turning it in all direcbatter spreads evenly across thea thin circle. If the crepe has anyquickly add afew drops of batter tCook until the edges begin to dryfrom the sides of the pan and thenicely browned (lift up an edge wsil icone spatula oryour f ingers toabout 1minute. Use the spatula oto flip the crepe over. Cook until tside is browned, about 20 secondSlide the crepe from the pan ontplate or cooling rack. Repeat withing batter, adjusting the heat andmore butter in the pan every twocrepes, or whenever the pan begibit dry. You can stack the crepesas they're done; they won't stick.will soften as they cool.

The finished crepe should slide r ight opan. The first side, cal led the presentaisusually prettier than the second sidtends to bespotty. Whenfolding orwrcrepes around a fil ling, the presentatioshould be on the outside.


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' * cup mild honey, such as clovercup fresh clementine or tangerine ju iceoz, (2 Tbs.) unsal ted butter

% cup heavy cream,228

Heatthe sugar and 2 Tbs. water in a 10-inchskillet or saute pan over medium-high heat.ptirr ing unti l the sugar dissolves and themixture starts to boil. Once it boils, let i t coowithout stirring until it becomes vent paleamber, about 4 minutes. Stir in the honeyuntil blen.sed and continue to ce rringoccasionally, until tf'\ mi~ure is mber,1to 2mi~utes more (it wi ll bubble vlgbrously;adjust the heat as necessary so it doesn'tboil over).Remove the skillet from the hea~~nd pourin the clet:1'lent1nej~ice (becareful;it.willsplatter). Put the skillet back on the heat andsimmer the caramel, stirring to dissolve any

.butter until combined. Keepwarm over vr;;ryIO,


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crepe cake with coffee cream and hazelnut pralineA stack of crepes lajler,ed with two sweet fillings-one creamy, one crunchy-becomesa luscious, sophis.'ticGlted cake. It needs to chill before serving, so plan to make itahead. Yields oneS-inch cake; serves 12FOR THE PRALINE

Vegetable oil , for the pan'h cup granulated sugar5 oz.(1cup) whole blanched or skinnedtoasted hazelnuts

Kosher saltFOR THE FILLINGS2

3

FOR ASSEMBLY14 a-inch crepes (see recipe on p. 64),at room temperature

Confectioners' sugar, for dustingMAKE THE PRALINE

end up with a f ew large pieces but the rest isthe right texture, remove them, dump out thepowder and process again. Set aside.MAKE THE FILLINGSIn a small bowl, stir the espresso powder into1Tbs. ofthe creme fraiche until dissolved.In a large bowl, whisk the mascarpone andthe confectioners' sugar until blended.In a medium bowl with an electric handmixer, beat the remaining creme fraiche onmediumspeed until soft peaks form, about2 min~tes. Witha rubber spatula or big spoon,gently fold naif the whipped creme fra1cheinto the mascarpone mixture until smooth,then fold in the second half.Put 1%cups ofthe mascarpone mixture ina bowl. Gently fold in 1)1., cups of the pralinepowder. Gently fold the espresso-cream intothe remaining mascarpone mixture.

ASSEMBLE THE CREPE CAKELay 1of the crepes on a flat cakter thats at least 9 inches in diaa generous}'. cup of the espressover the crepe, leavi ng a }'.-incha second crepe on top. Spread}'.cup ofthe praline filling evenlcrepe, leaving the same border.alternating the espresso and puntil you've used all the crepes."domed" cake, make the deptharound the edges of the crepesdeeper than in the centers, anda new crepe, lightly press downof it witl) your fingers. Finish witlayer of the praline cream.Carefully wrap the cake in plasat least 4 hours or up to 24 hoursset up slightly, making the cake eRemove the cake from the refrleast 1hour before serving. Sprremaining}'. cup praline powderdust with confectioners' sugar.

Storing Crepess by w"i lpping the stackperature (or reheat) be

To f or up to 3 monthS, lay pi axed paper or parchment bevery :t:ewso that it's easy to pry oft as many as yoo need. Wrap the stack in plaslide itinto a large zip-top freezer bag, Thaw wrapped frozen crepes at room tture'unti l pliable, about an hour.Reheating Cr~pes

If you have only afew crepes to reheat, warm eacl\oone in a dry, hot skillet for 5onds per side. For a bigger batch, put thempna largecOvenproof plate, cover wand h a 300F oven for about 10minutes. Ot, if you prefer, heat them in thlate, covered with a paper towel, for about 30 seconds on medium


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baked crepes cacciatore with parmesan cream sauceIn this comforting casserole, crepes are filled with a fragrant chicken, tomato, andmushroom mixture, topped with a cheese sauce, and baked. For speed and ease, thisrecipe calls for leftover or store-bought rotisserie chicken. Serves 6 as a main courseFOR THE FILLING3 Tbs. extra-virgin olive oilTbs.unsalted butter; more softened forthe baking dish

8 oz. cremini or white button mushrooms,cleaned, trimmed, and sliced y ., inch thick(about 2%cups)Koshersalt and freshly groundblackpeppermedium (8 oz.) red bell pepper, cored,seeded, and cut into small dicelargemild fresh greenchile (such asAna-heim) cored,seeded,and cut into small dice

% large yellow onion, thinly slicedtsp. chopped fresh rosemaryTbs.all-purpose unbleached flourcup lower-salt chicken broth

1 14.5-oz.candiced tomatoes, drainedY z tsp. fresh lemonjuice; more to tastey., tsp. hot sauce2 cupschopped leftover roast chicken orstore-bought rotisserie chicken

FOR THE CHEESE SAUCE1 cup heavy cream3 oz.(1%cups) finely grated Parmigiano-ReggianoFreshlyground black pepper

FOR ASSEMBLY12 8-inch crepes (see recipe onp.64),

warmed ifmade aheadtsp.sweet paprika (optional)

MAKE THE FILLINGIn a 12-inch skillet, heat 1Tbs. of the oiland the butter over medium-high heatuntil sizzling. Add the mushrooms,season with Y, tsp. salt and a few grindsof pepper, and cook, stirringfrequently,until the mushrooms release much oftheir liquid and begin to brown, 7 to9 minutes. Transfer to a medium bowland return the skillet to the heat.Add the remaining 2 Tbs. oil, thebell pepper, chi le, onion, rosemary,and 1tsp. salt. Reduce the heat tomedium, and cook, stirring occasionally,until the vegetables are very soft and fragrant,8 to 10 minutes; don't let them brown.Sprinkle the flour over the vegetables andcook for a minute or so, stirring and scrap-ingso the flour gets mixed with the fat andstarts to toast ab it. Add the broth and let itcome to a simmer, stirring and scraping up

any browned bits, about 1minute. Add thetomatoes, lemon juice, and hot sauce; bringto a simmer again and cook for 1 to 2 minutesto sl ightly thicken the sauce.Add the chicken and mushrooms andsimmer for a few minutes until everything isheated through. Remove from the heat andseason to taste with more salt, pepper, hotsauce, or lemon juice. Cover thefill ingandkeep warm. (The filling may also be madeup to 3 days ahead. Store it in an airtightcontainer in the refrigerator and reheat overmedium-low heat before continuing.)MAKE THE CHEESE SAUCEIna heavy-duty 1-quart saucepan, bringthe cream to a boil over medium-high heat.Reduce the heat to maintain a lively simmerand cook until the cream has reduced byhalf, about 10 minutes. Reduce the heat tolow and add the cheese, st irring until melted.Season generously with pepper.Remove from the heatand let cool slightly.

ASSEMBLE AND BAKE THE CREPESPosition a rack in the center of the oven andheat the oven to 400F. Butter the bottomand sides of a 9x13-inch baking dish.Working with a few crepes at a time, laythem on a clean work surface. Spoon about3 heaping Tbs. of the filling evenly onto thebottom third of each crepe. Fold the bottomedge of each crepe up and over the filling,fold the sides in toward the center, and finishrolling up from the bottom. Evenly arrangethe crepes seam side down in as ingle layerthe baking dish.Spread the cheese sauce evenly over thecrepes and sprinkle with the paprika (if usingBake until the sauce isgolden and bubblingslightly, 12to 16minutes. Serve.Martha Holmberg is theformer publisher 0/Fine Cooking.Her latest book,Crepes, comesout in April. C

Watch avideo on how to make crepesat FineCooking.coml extras.


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Next, I stir in an aromatic puree of shallots, driedchiles, garlic, ginger, and galangal (a more pungentrelative of ginger). This mixture, a classic flavorbase fqr many Malaysian dishes, serves as the aro-matic backbone for the beef rendang. The propor-tion of the ingredients in my recipe is somewhat

standard, though the amounts can vary; [or example, you couldchange the amount or type of chile to provide more or less heat. Ilike to use galangal (available fresh or frozen in Asian markets) inconjunction with ginger for extra intensity, but if you can't find it,you can leave it out.

Once the spices are sizzling, the beMeat is a luxury for many Malaysians,used only [or special occasions, and ean inexpensive cut like beef chuck orit's cut into bite-size pieces and stirredspices; you'll want to coat it well with

I then add coconut milk, tamarind, lemongrass, anlime leaves, all of which are available in Asian marketmilk is a staple ingredient in any rendang; as it cooks da fragrant coating for the meat. Typically, Malasiansmilk squeezed from freshly grated coconut, but here

Start by cooking the whole spices-cloves, carda-mom pods, cinnamon pieces, and star anise-toinfuse the oil with their flavor.

Stir constantly asyou cook the ground spices tokeep them from sticking to the pan and burning. The flavor base,a puree made fromgarlic, ginger, and shallot, will sizzlebecome very f ragrant.

beef rendangServe this aromatic Malaysian specialty with jasmine or basmati rice. Youcan alsoenjoy it with bread, using it as a f il ling for pita, naan, torti llas, or any other flatbread.Rendang is typically very thick, but if you prefer a saucier dish, you can add a littlewater after adding the toasted coconut at the end. Serves 6 to 8FOR THE FLAVOR BASE15 driedjaponeschiles or 10 dried chiles dearbol or 3 Tbs. sambal oelek1% cups sliced shallots (from 4 large shallots)2 Tbs. sliced garlicTbs. sliced peeled fresh gingerTbs. chopped fr~sh or frozen and thawedgalangal (optional)

FOR THE WHOLE SPICE BLEND4 whole cloves4 whole green cardamom pods2 whole star anise3-inch-long cinnamon stick, snapped inhalf


FOR THE GROUND SPICE BLEND2 tsp. ground coriander2 tsp. ground cumin2 tsp. ground fennel seedstsp. ground turmeric% tsp. freshly ground black pepper

FOR THE RENDANG% cup canota or vegetable oil; more asneeded2 lb. boneless top blade beef chuck (orbottom or top round, flank, or sirloin

steak), cut into Yz-inch-thick slices,then cut into 114-to 2-inch pieces13.S-oz. can unsweetened coconut milk

% cup tamarind concentrate3 wild lime leaves, thinly slice2 medium lemongrass stalks,with back of knife and tied4 tsp. palm sugar or dark brow

2% tsp. table salty, cup tightly packed grated f

or unsweetened frozen coc14 cup coarsely chopped freshgarnish (optional)

Lime wedges, for garnish (oMAKE THE FLAVOR BASEIf using dried chiles, steep themuntil pliable, 5 to 8 minutes; thenthem (use gloves). Put the chiles,ginger, galangal (if using), and y .;food processor an

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