fine cuisine march 2012
DESCRIPTION
A guide Easter cookingTRANSCRIPT
MARCH 2012
MUNCH ONA TASTY
BRUNCH3 QUICK AND EASY RECIPES
SHRIMP ANDBASIL FRITTATA
GREEN EGGS AND HAMBENEDICT
ORANGE SCENTEDFRENCH TOAST
FEEL GOODFOOD
DINING BY THEWATERSIDEA TRULY FIRST CLASS EXPERIENCE
DAN’S DELECTABLEDELIGHTS
PAN-ROASTED RED SNAPPER
WITH TOMATO, CILANTRO AND PICKLED ONION SALSA WITH CRISPY ONIONS AND PEA SHOOTS.
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©2012 Nation Publishing Co. Limited
C R E D I T S
Editor’s NoteEaster is around the corner and the Fine Cuisine team is in tune with the cultural relation between the holiday and its culinary customs. However, rather than sticking to tradition, we opted for delectable alternatives of seafood dishes for you to try this year. We also hope to appeal to those food lovers who are looking to entertain for the holiday by compiling a list of scrumptious recipes, comprising a mouthwatering array of fl avours, to create an appetizing, aesthetically pleasing, Easter brunch table.
For our Easter edition, we will also tantalize the taste buds of those pastry lovers, with a recipe for the seasonal hot cross buns. And to add a local touch to the idea of fi ne treats, we sat down with Dan Brinckmann, executive pastry chef of Temptations Bakery, for the inside scoop on him and his blooming business. So hold on to your sweet tooth as we show you some of his fresh creations.
And for those readers who love to ‘get down’ in the kitchen, we want to make sure that you’re armed with the tools for success, so we’re presenting you with
some of the basics. If, on the other hand, you prefer to feed your fancies in a cozy atmosphere overlooking the deep, aqua waters of the Caribbean Sea, then join us as we dive into the world of Waterside Restaurant. From their alluring décor to their all-encompassing and ever-growing menu, you can dine in fi ne style.
Here at Fine Cuisine we also want to make sure that our readers, foodies, and those somewhere in between are making wise decisions about the foods they consume. We are therefore offering tips for choosing the fi nest fi sh, as well as education on local super foods and quick bites to boost your mood.
It is with great pleasure that we present to you our collection of tasty treats and tips from our team of experts and food lovers alike. We hope that you will enjoy this issue.
Publisher: VIVIAN-ANNE GITTENS
Editor: LYLE JONES
Advertising Manager: PAULETTE JONES
Editorial Team: OMAR ROBERTSON, TREVOR BENSON, LYLE JONES,
APRILLE THOMAS, CHERYL HAREWOOD, DAWN MORGAN
Consulting Chef: OMAR ROBERTSON
Photography: MARK KING, INSIGHT DIGITAL
Design/Layout: RANDY PHILLIPS – IMAGEWORX
Advertising Executive: DEBBIE BRATHWAITE - TEL: (246) 430-5518
Email: [email protected]
Advertising Coordinator: WENDEY DELANEY – TEL: 430-5517
Printers: PRINTWEB CARIBBEAN LTD (246) 434-6719
Lyle JonesEditor
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Mark is passionate about all things photography. His photography takes him around the world, and allows him to participate in artist-in-residences and group exhibitions. This enables Mark to pursue new projects and collaborate with creative people around the globe. Travel has played a large part in his life. He has called The Bahamas, Barbados, Brussels, San Francisco, and Washington D.C. home.
MARK KING
Trevor is a passionate and driven young Canadian foodie who is thankful and proud to call Barbados home. Trevor is a creative autodidact when it comes to cooking and is thrilled to be working in the food and beverage industry. “I value food provenance, enjoy using and consuming local produce, and strongly support small business,” he says.
Omar is the Executive Chef and owner of In-fusion Catering Services. Focusing on his own brand of fusion cuisine, Omar blends his training in Classic French Cuisine and his West Indian background to great fun, whimsical plays on classic dishes, reimagined and rethought.
A graduate of Le Cordon Bleu Paris, Ottawa Culinary Institute, Omar also holds a Professional Diploma in Cookery from the Stratford Chef School, where he furthered his culinary training and learned restaurant management and design
TREVOR BENSONContents
C O N T R I B U T O R S
OMAR ROBERTSON
Easy Cooking
An Ode to Brunch
Superfoods In Your Own Backyard
Taste Of Temptation
A Few Good Knives
Paradise Awaits At Waterside Restaurant
Savour Your Sushi
Fresh By Test
The Mood Behind The Food
08
10
14
16
20
22
26
27
28
Pan-roasted red snapper with tomato, cilantro and pickled onion salsa with
crispy onions and pea shoots created by chef Omar Robertson.
Photographed by Mark King
Calphalon 10 piece Pot SetAvailable at Dwellings
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FQFine Kitchen
CookingEasy
Giara Bottle – Fuchsia & BlueAvailable at Dwellings
Cuisinart Cordless Automatic Electric KettleAvailable at Courts
Krups Coffee Espresso CombiAvailable at Dwellings
Le Creuset Wok wirh Glass LidAvailable at Dwellings
Hamilton Beach 6 Speed Stand MixerAvailable at Courts
Judge 20 cm Saucepan Available at Cave Shepherd Broad Street
Procter Silex Can Opener/Knife SharpenerAvailable at Courts
9 FineCuisine
10 FineCuisine
To BrunchAn Ode
FQ
Brunch, oh sweet lovely brunch, you are without question the perfect amalgamation of the epicurean delight. The joys of the most important meal of the day, just a little later
in the day, a little heartier, a little more substantial, just enough to roll over into lunch. Oh the places I can go with you. The choices you give me are enough to make me just a little giddy and truthfully, you are a guilty pleasure we all indulge in. So to you my guilty pleasure I say, let’s eat!
Brunch: breakfast meets lunch. It’s normally on Sunday and normally the perfect way to get over a wild and crazy Saturday night. Maybe that’s just me and my friends, who knows. But with Easter around the corner it’s also the perfect get together for friends and family. Easter Sunday brunch is a big deal in some parts of the world and in Barbados it’s becoming huge. Try getting a table on Easter Sunday at the Hilton if you don’t believe me, it’s insane. We at Fuse Brunch Club are getting ready for Easter brunch ourselves, and we plan on having fun with it.
I think brunch is the perfect time for you to be creative, get a little spontaneous with your food, play around with it, try something new and wow your friends and family. So if you’re going to be entertaining this Easter let me suggest a few tips that you can use to make it a fun and memorable day for all.
Brunch isn’t brunch without a mimosa, but that’s just my
opinion. A traditional mimosa is one part chilled orange juice, one part chilled champagne, served in a champagne fl ute. But why go traditional? Instead try substituting the OJ with passion fruit juice, or grapefruit, or even guava. Play around with it a little and fi gure out your own for yourself.
Coffee and tea are also important; again fi nd what works for you and your guests. Educate yourselves on what’s out there. But may I recommend supporting Fair Trade or the newer Direct Trade companies. This is a new standard that ensures the farmers are receiving a fair price in the case of the former and the best price possible in the latter.
The food should always have eggs, toast and protein. These can be anything from an omelette, toad in a hole, French toast, steak and eggs. You’ve got a million and one options to play with.
I’m going to recommend three fantastic options for you to try that are variations of some of my favourite brunch dishes along with the recipes so you can try them at home for you and yours.
Orange Scented French Toast with Grand Marnier Whipped Cream. This is one delicious French toast and so easy to do that it’ll become something you do just for fun for yourself. The second is a Green Eggs and Ham Benedict, a little Doctor Seuss meets brunch classic that’s oh so good. The fi nal is Shrimp Frittata, think a deep dish omelette but better!
Entertaining
ORANGE SCENTED FRENCH TOASTMAKES 4 SERVINGS
French Toast Mix2 eggs1 cup of whipping cream (35%)1 cup of milk Zest of 2 oranges Grand Marnier cream1 cup of whipping cream (35%)1 oz Grand Marnier1 tablespoon icing sugar
French Toast8 slices of bread (white or whole wheat) Vegetable oil Icing sugar
Equipment needed1 large non-stick pan2 medium bowls1 whisk1 spatula1 fine sifter Oven at 350 F
STORY BY OMAR ROBERTSON PHOTOGRAPHY BY MARK KING
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1. Bring a small pot of water to a boil, add the basil and blanch for about 20 seconds then remove from the heat, shock in an ice bath and drain well.
2. Place the basil, oil, salt, pepper, and parmesan cheese in the blender and blend on medium speed until smooth but a little chunky.
3. Warm the white wine in a pot until it just starts to simmer, then remove from heat and place in the blender, add the egg yolk and turn on high. Through the hole in the cover, slowly drizzle the oil into the yolks until it starts to emulsify and thicken, once you add about half the oil you can pour it in at a steadier rate until you’ve added all. Add the pesto after (the amount is up to you based on taste and colour) and season to taste.
4. Slice the ham and warm it up. Toast the English muffi ns, place one English muffi n split in two on a plate, and then add the ham on top.
5. Take a medium pot and bring the water to just a simmer, barely bubbling. Crack each egg individually and place each cracked egg in a small bowl. Drop the egg in the water for between 2½ - 3 minutes. This cooking time depends on if the eggs are at room temperature or straight out of the fridge, respectively. When fi nished remove from the water with a slotted spoon and drain off the water. Place briefl y on a paper towel and then place on top of the muffi n and ham.
6. Spoon the pesto emulsion on top of the eggs, serve and enjoy!
METHOD:
METHOD:
GREEN EGGS & HAM BENEDICTMAKES 2 SERVINGS
Pesto100 g basil125 ml olive oilSaltPepperParmesan cheese
Pesto Emulsion1 egg yolk50 ml white wine50 ml pesto200 ml vegetable oil
Eggs Benedict4 fresh eggs4 slices of picnic ham2 English muffins
1. Add the milk and cream to the bowl. Crack the two eggs into the same bowl and whisk until the mixture is fully beaten together. Zest the two oranges. To do this you can use a rasp or the fi nest side of a cheese grater. You should only grate until you see the white inside— this is bitter and could ruin the fl avour you are going for.
2. Take the 1 cup of whipping cream and place it in a bowl with the 1oz shot of Grand Marnier and the icing sugar, and whip with the whisk until the cream is thickened and able to hold shape. Place into a container with a lid and place in the fridge until you are ready for it. (By whisking the cream you are working air into the fat of the cream, this causes the fat molecules to swell and the once-liquid cream to thicken, but whip it too much and they will explode, giving you butter.)
3. Take your bread, or if you buy your loaves of bread whole, slice to the desired thickness. Heat your pan on a medium high heat and add the vegetable oil to the pan, about a teaspoon per slice. (Never overcrowd your pan, so if you can only fi t two in the pan, do it in batches.) Dip the bread slices in the mixture and place in the hot pan. When it starts to get golden brown on the cooking side, fl ip it over with your trusty spatula, and cook until golden brown on the other side. Then remove from the pan and place on an oven safe platter or baking pan and place in the oven. Continue to do this until you are done.
4. Once done cooking all eight pieces, place two slices on each plate and using the sifter, sprinkle some icing sugar on top. Take your Grand Marnier cream and add a spoonful onto each serving of toast or as you desire and serve with some maple syrup on the side.
Equipment needed1 medium sauce pot1 blender1 toaster or toaster oven1 slotted spoon
Crack each egg individually and place each cracked egg in a small bowl. Drop the egg in the water for between 2½ - 3 minutes.
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FQEntertaining
METHOD:1. Defrost the shrimp, remove the tail, roughly chop into
about ½ inch pieces, and place in a bowl with a little bit of vegetable oil, a pinch of kosher salt and black pepper. (I like to use kosher salt rather than regular table salt when I cook because it has a more delicate salt fl avour and larger crystals, and does not contain any iodine like table salt.)
2. Cut the onion, peppers and tomatoes into a ½ inch dice, take a 12-inch cast iron skillet and place it on the stove on a medium high heat. Add the 2 tablespoons of butter and 1 ½ tablespoons of vegetable oil to the pan. When the butter starts to foam a little add the vegetables to the pan, adding the tomatoes last (about when the onions and peppers start to soften).
3. Crack the eggs into the medium bowl, add your cream and whisk until the eggs are beaten, light and frothy. Season with a little salt and cayenne pepper, and set aside for a minute.
SHRIMP FRITTATA: SERVES 8:
Frittata:6 eggs1 cup cream1 medium red onion½ red sweet pepper½ yellow sweet pepper50 g cilantro (chopped)1 tomato1½ tsp cayenne pepper12 shrimp 16/20 (peeled and de-veined)1/2 cup cheddar cheese (grated) Kosher salt Black pepper2 tablespoons vegetable oil4 tablespoons butter
5. Once the eggs start to cook and solidify a little, while still liquid on top, add your cheese and transfer it from your stove to the oven on a low broil for 3-5 minutes. As they cook under the heat the eggs will rise and become fl uffy and the cheese will start to melt and brown just a little. Once the top of the frittata has started to turn golden brown, remove it from the oven and place on the stove away from any heat to cool and set just a little. The frittata should have come away from the pan a little on the sides.
4. Add the shrimp to the pan and sauté quickly. Add your cilantro and eggs to the pan and stir with a wooden spoon so that the fi lling is spread evenly throughout. Add the remaining butter to the pan with the eggs in it in small cubes; this will add some richness to the dish, making the eggs soft and creamy. Reduce the heat to medium/medium low and keep stirring with the spoons, scraping the bottom, this will allow uncooked egg to reach the hot surface and keep the eggs from burning on the bottom.
6. Serve it from the cast iron pan at the table on a wooden board with some good bread.
Equipment needed12-inch cast iron pan1 medium bowl1 whisk1 oven on a low broil (oven rack moved to the very top)
Superfoods
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STORY BY TREVOR BENSONFrom blue green algae to baobab, goji berries to garbanzo
beans, and quinoa to kiwifruit, a variety of foods from across the globe have been making their way onto lists of
“super” edibles, all of which can thank the humble blueberry for leading the superfood revolution in the late 1990s.
These nutrient-packed, mineral-rich, and fi brely-fantastic foods stand proudly beside Omega-3 powerhouses like salmon, anthocyanin-loaded tomatoes, and probiotic yogurt.
To what extent, though, do these often unfamiliar but simply rediscovered foods from afar trump those we fi nd in our own backyard? Are superfoods something we need to discover, bring back from our travels, or buy from the health food store? Do goji berries even come from Tibet and are they any different from wolfberries?
While the term “superfood” has no legal standing it is often used in association with foods that are generally considered to be both high in nutritional content and good for your health. Consequently, as each New Year presents itself so too does a list of new and exciting superfoods.
Would you believe that kangaroo is on the list for 2012, and let’s not forget fermented black garlic from Korea, which started a buzz towards the end of last year. But how much of what these foods are said to contain do we really need and how much is superfl uous or at least available to us in local shapes, forms, and fl avours?
There is nothing wrong with eating foods that are jam-packed with copious amounts of vitamins, nutrients, and minerals but with the list growing each and every yea – as new forests, valleys, and mountaintops claim provenance over native foods
– perhaps it is best to return to our own backyard for our superfood fi x.
Coconut water is a great place to start. With its naturally occurring electrolytes that help with hypertension, this sweet beverage has made it into the superfood big leagues. Canned, bottled, and Tetra-packed by overseas manufacturers for health food and grocery stores the world over, what is sold on the side of the road and enjoyed by a signifi cant proportion of the population here is just one of many super foods that Barbados and the Caribbean can proudly produce and consume.
Just because the packaging on a bottle of coconut water or other local super food does not scream “I’m fancy, healthy, and consume me for these reasons” followed by a list of scientifi c and popular health-related buzz words, doesn’t mean that it isn’t great for you!
Furthermore, if you’re really into super foods then supporting the super people who produce these foods is just as important, especially when they are your neighbours.
The following list is just a taste of how many local and regional super foods can be found in our own backyard: avocados (pear); bananas; Bajan cherries; black beans; black-eyed peas; broad beans; breadfruit; broccoli; cabbage; carrots; cassava; cashew fruit; cinnamon; cocoa; ginger; guava; leek; mango; mackerel; pak choy; paw paw; pigeon peas; pineapple; pomegranate; pumpkin; seamoss; soursop; sorrel; spinach (callaloo); sweet potatoes; tomatoes; and turmeric.
If you’re skeptical about this list then just type any of these foods into an online search engine followed by the term “superfood” to see all the great health benefi ts each has to offer.
FQNuttrition
STORY BY TREVOR BENON
In Our Own BackyardIn Our Own Backyard
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Two years ago I was desperately trying to source a specialized, customizable birthday cake. I wasn’t about to slave away in the kitchen at a box cake and I was tired
of seeing the same chocolate cakes sitting on gold foil, adorned with chocolate shavings and fruits. I wanted something different. I stumbled across Temptations Bakery’s Facebook page and I was in awe of what I saw. There were so many to choose from and I fi nally opted for a cricket themed cake, complete with a customizable (and of course edible) bat. The creation was the handiwork of top pastry chef, Dan Brinckmann.
From cupcake cakes to edible 3-D Gucci bags, any pastry delicacy you can envision, Dan Brinckmann has already created or will quickly attempt to produce. Head chef and owner at Temptations Bakery, Dan specializes in distinctive sugar craft. When he isn’t busy baking, Dan can be found playing with his children or doing as much ‘nothing’ as possible.
A Denmark native, the executive pastry chef has had over 15 years of experience in the fi ve-star hospitality industry. His story began as a 15 year old apprentice to become a pastry chef at the Advanced Culinary Institute in Copenhagen, Denmark. Upon the completion of his programme, Dan delved deep into the working world, landing numerous executive management positions in the hotel and food industries in countries all over the world. His career has taken him to almost every continent, an experience
which has undoubtedly contributed to his wealth of knowledge. Dan’s creativity and extensive experience brought him to the
shores of Barbados years ago as the executive pastry chef of the Hilton hotel, and he’s been here ever since. Dan was compelled to stay but not because of the crystal beaches or sandy shores.
“I met my lovely wife here,” he laughed. “We got married and we had our lovely children. For me it was a choice between packing up and moving around or settling down. And I wanted to settle down.”
Settling down for Dan also led him to starting his own business where he could apply his talents and bring palatable joy to Barbadians, and thus Temptations Bakery was born. Located off the Spring Garden Highway, Dan’s small, licensed, commercial kitchen is where the magic happens.
There isn’t anything that a client orders that Dan won’t at least try. “Sometimes people call with things and I’m quick to say yes, but then I hang up the phone and I have to fi gure out how I’m going to get the thing done!” But the Internet has made things easier for him because then he can look to other creations for ideas. “I look at a lot of world champions; not to copy them but to get inspiration. Once you study what looks good and what does not look good, a lot of the artistic element to it is just a lot of practice.” However, Dan doesn’t consider himself to be a really good artist.
Tast eSTORY BY APRILLE THOMAS PHOTOGRAPHY BY INSIGHT DIGITAL
Of Temptation
FQFeatured Chef
17 FineCuisine 17FineCuisine
You have to always challenge yourself to make your work interesting. I’m not the kind of person that sits back and waits for people to come and give me work to do. I go out and fi nd new things.”
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Dan adds that he doesn’t feel like he really has stiff competition. “I don’t really have much quality competition. Cheap price competition maybe, but not quality. With economic times and everything some people may ask ‘why pay $300 for a cake when I can get a cheaper one for maybe $75 or $100?” he shrugs. And one might think that in response a regular businessman might lower his quality and prices in hopes of boosting business, but Dan has refused to sacrifi ce his standard of excellence. He still produces all of his work from scratch.
It might be a wonder how in such diffi cult fi nancial times a business like Dan’s, selling luxury deserts, stays afl oat. Dan attributes his success not only to his exemplary work but also to the rising popularity of television programmes such as Cake Boss. “People see the cakes on TV and they like them and they want them too, so that’s why they come to me. And I’m happy.”
Like any other job however, Dan faces his challenges. “It does get boring I’m afraid. But you have to always challenge yourself to make your work interesting. I’m not the kind of person that sits back and waits for people to come and give me work to do. I go out and fi nd new things.”
And sometimes Dan has too much time on his hands and he even questions his choice of staying in Barbados. “Sometimes business is dead slow and I question, ‘why didn’t I take that other job in that other country or whatever,’ but I keep myself busy.”
And there are other times where Dan never leaves his kitchen, some of which you might not have even considered. “The biggest months are of course Christmas, Easter and then during the
summer a lot of people hold events like weddings and stuff like that. But the biggest months for birthday cakes are like September and October. There are so many people born in September and October and we all know why,” he laughs.
Recently Dan has been seeing trends in cupcake cakes rather than the traditional wedding cakes but he says that he prefers to do the more elaborate cakes. Clients are also opting for cupcake cakes rather than birthday cakes so that they don’t have to cut numerous slices for friends and family. Barbadians are defi nitely keeping Dan on his toes, ordering cakes with various themes and designs, but he recalls that the most outrageous cake he has ever made was the sewing machine cake.
Overall, Dan says that he’s happy with his decision to stay in Barbados. “In Barbados there’s so much you can do, I don’t have to limit myself,” he smiles.
And we are defi nitely glad to have you, Dan.
They represent an Easter tradition that dates back as far as medieval times and are believed to have originated at Saint Alban’s Abbey in 1361 where the monks distributed them to
the poor. But the English custo m of eating spiced buns on Good Friday was perhaps institutionalized in Tudor times, when a London bylaw was introduced forbidding the sale of such buns except
on Good Friday, at Christmas, and at burials. In many historically Christian countries, buns are traditionally eaten hot or toasted on Good Friday with the cross standing as a symbol of the Crucifi xion.
A popular seasonal treat in Barbados, the appearance of these sweet, spicy buns on the shelves of various supermarkets and bakeries across the island say it’s Easter time in again.
METHOD 1. In a large bowl, dissolve yeast in water, stir in milk, sugar, butter, salt, cinnamon,
cloves, nutmeg, egg, egg yolk and 2 cups fl our. Beat until smooth. Stir in raisins and mixed peel; add enough fl our to make the dough easy to handle.
2. Turn dough onto a lightly fl oured surface and knead until smooth and elastic, about 5 mins. Place in a greased bowl turn greased side up. Cover and let rise until doubled in bulk, about 1 1/2 hours.
3. Punch down dough, divide into 4 equal parts. Cut each part into 6 equal pieces. Shape each piece into a ball, place about 2 inches apart on a baking sheet.
4. With a scissors, snip a cross on top of each ball. Cover and let rise until doubled in size, about 40 mins.
5 Preheat oven to 375˚F. Mix egg white with 1 tablespoon water, brush top of buns with egg white
mixture. Bake until golden brown, about 20 minutes.
6. Frost crosses on buns with powdered sugar frosting.
Makes 24 rolls.
FROSTING Mix sugar with water and vanilla until smooth. Add a little more water if needed 1/2 tsp. at a time. Place in a piping bag and pipe crosses onto buns in line with the crosses cut previously with the scissors. Let dry before serving.
HOT CROSS BUNS You can use your electric mixer for this recipe but the directions are for making by hand. 1 tbs. active dry yeast 1/4 cup warm water 1 cup lukewarm milk 1/3 cup sugar 1/3 cup butter, melted 1 tsp. salt 1 tsp. ground cinnamon 1/4 tsp ground cloves 1/4 tsp ground nutmeg 1 egg 1 egg yolk 4 to 4/12 cups all purpose flour 1 cup raisins 1/2 cup mixed peel, (optional) 1 egg white slightly beaten 1 tbs. water
POWDERED SUGAR FROSTING 1 cup icing sugar 1 tbs. water or milk 1/2 tsp. vanilla or almond extract
SpicySweet Easter TreatSweet Easter TreatSweet Easter Treat
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When it comes to cooking there are many essentials such as a good heavy-bottomed pot and a non-stick pan. For me a good cast iron pan in a kitchen is
essential but none is more necessary than the knife; it is the pride and joy of a chef. We invest heavily in our knives, treat them with care, and we love to show them off to each other.
I can’t tell you how many times I go by a family member, friend or even a client and take a look at their knife drawer or knife block. They love to cook but they never have the right tools for the job. Hopefully after reading this article you’ll feel a little bit better about shopping and having the right tools for the job.
I’m often asked, “What are the essential knives to have in my kitchen?” and my answer is usually the same. It may surprise you but you only really need three knives. Some of you are reading this and saying ‘three, only three?’ Yes, all any good cook needs is three good knives: a paring knife, a chef’s knife, and a bread knife. As a chef I have a lot more than just three knives, but those are specialised. As you get better and more technically profi cient
in your knife and culinary skills, feel free to branch out and get new ones. I’ll even recommend a few for you here.
So ‘Why only three knives?’ you may ask. The answer is simple. These three knives can do almost everything you need from peeling fruits and vegetables to cutting meat and fi sh, bread, pastries and cakes; they can literally do it all.
When looking for a knife a number of things need to be considered. Firstly, a knife is personal; it’s an extension of you. It’s about preference: do you like a knife with weight or a light blade that feels like nothing? Do you want a blade that you have to maintain regularly or one that has a longer lasting edge?
Personally, I love Japanese steel. I used to be big on German knives and steel because they’re well made, well balanced, great weight, and the engineering is impeccable. But when you cook for years you start to look for more in a knife. You appreciate the design that goes into it from the handle shape and style to the composition of the blade. Everything starts to make a difference and after years of ‘chefi ng’ it up I went from a German knife to Japanese steel, but only after about fi ve years.
A FewSTORY BY OMAR ROBERTSON
Good Knives
FQFine Kitchen
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THE PARING KNIFE: The standard multi-purpose single edged plain blade used for everything from
peeling vegetables to de-veining shrimp, generally the range in length from 3-6 inches.
WHY?: Because it does almost everything you’ll ever need with a small knife, and more.
WHAT TO LOOK FOR: You’re looking for a blade that’s well made and has a sturdy, comfortable handle with a good grip. Balance of the knife is also important. A good way to test this is to take the knife and lay it on its side on an extended index fi nger, right where the handle and the blade meet – otherwise known as the bolster. The knife should balance perfectly and feel comfortable in your hand when you’re holding it. (Remember this is about personal preference, so sample around a little until you fi nd the one for you.)
AVERAGE PRICE RANGE: $20 - $150 BDS
THE CHEF’S KNIFE: The standard of the kitchen, a 6-12 inch curved blade, based off the German
chef’s knife but most commonly known as the French chef’s knife. WHY?: Its curved blade allows for a rocking motion making the knife perfect
for chopping or slicing with precision. Its weight also makes it the perfect multi-purpose heavy knife and a good substitute for a cleaver as it is able to cut through bone.
WHAT TO LOOK FOR: Again this is a personal choice. Start with the steel, German or Japanese. They differ in weight and construction: German steel tends to be heavier, has more weight and is a slightly ‘softer’ steel. Japanese steel is lighter and harder so try out a couple to see which you like more. Secondly you want to look at balance, grip and structure of the handle. Some new knives are coming with off-set handles for ergonomic reasons as they help to reduce stress on the hand due to prolonged use. I myself have such a knife and I love it.
AVERAGE PRICE RANGE: $75 - $500 BDS
THE BREAD KNIFE: An 8- 12 inch serrated blade fi rst designed by F.W. Dick and shown in 1893 at
the World Expo, this knife was designed to cut through bread without crushing it.WHY?: Its design varies from a series of serrated edges separated by smooth
blade sections to a scalloped blade but the design is simple. The knife is meant to cut cleanly in both directions in both hard and soft bread.
WHAT TO LOOK FOR: Start with weight and length when you’re looking at different options. Once you’ve decided that, look at the handle. Bread knives today come with offset handles to ensure that the user’s knuckles don’t rub on the board once they’ve sliced to the bottom of the loaf.
AVERAGE PRICE: $50 - $150 BDS
If you’re investing in knives also invest in a good sharpening or honing steel, this will help to keep your blade sharp. If you’re serious about your knives also invest in a whetstone, this is the best way to restore your knife’s edge after prolonged use.
If you’re a serious cook then also consider a fi let knife. This is a long, very sharp, plain-edged blade that is fl exible and perfect for fi leting fi sh. For the sushi afi cionado, a sashimi knife is essential. This is a 12-inch, plain-edged blade whose length is perfect for slicing the fi sh thinly in a single stroke.
Another great piece of equipment to have is a zester or micro-plane. These come is various sizes but they are perfect for getting the zest off citrus, fi nely grated cheese and so on.
I hope these help and I hope you make the investment in some great knives. Trust me on this, a chef is only as good as his equipment, so go get good.
21FineCuisine
22 FineCuisine
As the waves roll in from the Caribbean Sea, you sit mesmerized by the bewitching watery scene which confronts you.
The light of the moon and stars emblazoning the waters and fl owing across neatly set tables, tells you you’re lost somewhere in paradise. As you take in this sheer beauty while enjoying a three-course dinner at Waterside Restaurant, St. Lawrence Gap, Christ Church, you are moved to ask yourself, ‘Can this get
any better?’Undoubtedly, a bit of magic awaits you
when you dine at this romantic, world-class, upscale, fi ne dining facility.
Parallel to the azure waters of the Caribbean Sea and uniformed in beige with hints of blue, Waterside Restaurant (formerly home to Restaurant at Southsea), presents a picture of class with its fi ne architectural beauty, well-manicured grounds and a walkway leading to the breath-taking seaside.
ParadiseAwaits At
Waterside Restaurant
Elegant and locally-designed iron-cast furniture, perfectly matching curtains with matching lounge furniture, and tableware accentuated with tones of blue further enhance Waterside Restaurant’s classy aesthetic.
Added to this is the intimate, relaxed, cozy atmosphere which the restaurant offers in the most secluded, private setting. It’s where a friendly team waits to make all your culinary dreams become a reality.
Set next door to The Gap’s Convenience Store, Waterside Restaurant, which opened its doors a year ago, was a former residence of the Canadian High Commission. The building’s interior and exterior architectural beauty have captivated diners for years and those who visit waste no time in returning for more of what this restaurant has to offer.
Options await diners, as patrons can choose the air-conditioned comfort of Waterside’s private dining room, which seats 28; the
terrace setting under the sky-blue contoured awning looking out to the ocean, or to just relax in the lounge. Garden cocktails or formal functions are no problem for the capable staff of 27. However, early reservations are a must.
À la carte dining is available for over 120 people, and with its full lawn facilities, Waterside can cater for more. In fact, it is the ideal restaurant for hosting cocktail functions, weddings, or special private and corporate social events.
While Waterside is currently only open for dinner, special lunch-time functions can be hosted at any time. In addition, lunch and brunch items will form part of the offerings from October this year.
Waterside’s fusion of international cuisine allows diners to choose their fare of seafood, Thai, Italian and Caribbean dishes. These are served up under the watchful eye of restaurant manager Eric Walters and award winning executive chef, Michael Hinds.
FQFeatured Restaurant
STORY BY CHERYL HAREWOOD PHOTOS COMPLIMENTS WATERSIDE RESTAURANT
The light of the moon and stars emblazoning the waters and fl owing across neatly set tables, tells you
you’re lost somewhere in paradise.
23 FineCuisine 23FineCuisine
The idyllic seaside setting, coupled with menu choices that titillate the taste buds and capture the imagination, combine to deliver a dining experience that is fi lling in every sense of the word.
24 FineCuisine 24 FineCuisine
Despite the wide menu options, both Walters and Hinds seek to offer a West Indian fl are infused with fl avour, resulting in exotic dishes which appeal to every taste.
For starters, diners can savour the tasty breadfruit soup with smoked blue marlin and white truffl e essence; the spicy fl avoured chicken and red curry cappuccino with lychee and coriander; an organic mesclun leafy salad with asparagus and sun-blush tomatoes; crispy duck and orange salad with micro greens sesame-soy dressing, or the seared yellow fi n tuna.
Main courses are everyone’s delight. You can to sink your teeth into a dish of specially seasoned curried chicken or blackened Atlantic salmon. Seared and crusted red snapper served with basil-infused mash is another option; or maybe you’ll prefer the char-grilled dorado (Mahi Mahi) with soused breadfruit mash
The tasty coconut and lemon grass seafood (Asian infused with reef fi sh, sea cat, mussels and prawns) is a dish you’ll want to savour again and again. Each of these dishes is served with rice, but diners can mix and match menus as desired.
Soft, succulent steaks and other fi ne cuts also grace the menu,
like the boneless beef short rib which is slow braised for fi ve hours and served with garlic mash and maple caramelized market vegetables. Oh la la! Then there are veal cutlets seared with sage and parma ham and served with pasta.
Desserts are everybody’s treat at Waterside Restaurant; from the tropical and exotic fruits with spiced Campari and grapefruit, to the coconut cream brandy caramel and white chocolate mousse wrapped in dark chocolate glazed berries.
A lounge menu also awaits those who just want to sit around and chat with friends or enjoy all that the bar has to offer, as well as a seasoned list of wines. “We are very fl exible at Waterfront,” says Walters, “our aim is to please.”
The doors of Waterside Restaurant are thrown open from 6 p.m., seven nights a week and dinner is served between 6:30 p.m. and 9:30 p.m. As of April 15, dinner will continue to be served every night, with the exception of Monday. Ample parking space is available.
Eat well and savour life at Waterside Restaurant. Bon Appetit!
From the starter, through the main course to dessert, dinner at
Waterside Restaurant is an experience once savoured,
that’s unforgettable.
25FineCuisine
WytukaiAccra Beach Hotel, Rockley Christ ChurchFor reservations call (246) 435-8920 Ext 7400
Wytukai is the only Polynesian restaurant on the island serving
authentic foods from the islands of the Pacifi c. You can begin
your experience with a tropical drink like our Wytukai Special
and move onto our specialty dishes such as the Pu Pu Platter,
Aloha Shrimp, Opakapaka, Lokahi Lobster and much more!
Wytukai is a family style dining restaurant and is open for
dinner only.
Open Tuesday - Saturday : 6:30 p.m. - 9:30 p.m.
SpagoRestaurant & Bar
Spago Restaurant & Bar 2nd Street, – 432 7394
A lively atmosphere located in 2nd Street, the heart of Holetown,
food until midnight on weekends.
Spago Restaurant at Settlers’ Beach – 422 3245
Relaxed surroundings, overlooking white sands and enticing Caribbean
Sea. Food is served all day starting with breakfast at 8 a.m.
Spago Pizzeria – 271 0348
Located in The Lanterns Mall, ideal if you are in a rush; on your lunch
break or out shopping. You’ll fi nd the same Italian favourites, but it’s
“Spago to Go!” from 10 a.m.–10 p.m.
www.spagobarbados.com
Authentic, aff ordable, great quality
Italian food in 3 locations! Fresh, rustic dishes using only the best
ingredients, our menu off ers great thin crust
stone oven pizzas, pasta, seafood, steak &
delicious homemade desserts
DINING OUT
26 FineCuisine
FQFish
SavourYour Sushi
STORY BY OMAR ROBERTSON
First let me say this much before you continue reading: I am a hypocrite as far as fi sh is concerned. As a chef, I can cook fi sh, but I do not like eating it. From the time I was a child my love of fi sh could be classifi ed as
palpable at best. But yet I love, love, love sushi!While I respect the creativity that you see in some sushi rolls, I
believe that some things in sushi are sacred. There is etiquette to eating sushi and there are specifi c ingredients that accompany it, and each of them has a purpose. There are basics when it comes to sushi, so I fi gured I’d share a few of them with you.
Sushi as we know it today is all about the fi sh, but the most important thing about great sushi is fresh fi sh.
In Japan, the Tsukiji Market is the largest wholesale fi sh and seafood market in the world and one of the largest wholesale food markets in the world as well. Every morning from as early as 4 a.m. licensed buyers assemble at various stalls to survey the fresh catch, especially tuna and fi sh shipped in from around the world, and decide what they will bid based on quality and appearance. These auctions start at about 5:30 a.m. and by 7 a.m. they are over, primarily the tuna.
These auctions are immense and the amount of money spent on a single fi sh is mind-blowing! How mind-blowing is mind-blowing? The new record set this year was a massive $736,000USD for a single 593 pound blue fi n tuna, which is almost $1,238USD per pound. This might seem excessive, but it just goes to show you that these guys don’t play when it comes to their fi sh.
Another component of the eating process that many people
might not understand is the ginger, or gari. Ginger aids with digestion and is meant to help the diner with the digestion of the raw fi sh. The ginger is marinated in a solution of vinegar and sugar and provides some acidity that helps to cleanse the palate. It is meant to be eaten after a piece of sushi, not with it.
Wasabi, on the other hand, has a different role. It contains antiseptic properties that help to inhibit bacterial growth and oral bacterial growth.
There is a legend that is told about the power of wasabi root. According to legend, during the Edo period, a rogue group that was against the ruling government poisoned the river with the hope of creating chaos and destabilising the government in Edo (old Tokyo). They hoped to take over the government, but a peasant was washing her wasabi root down river of where the poison was dumped and the wasabi counteracted the poison, saving the city and the shogun (commander).
Soy sauce is sacred and great sushi restaurants take pride in the soy sauce they serve you. It adds salt which enhances the fl avour of the fi sh, but most importantly it contains a natural source of what is now widely regarded as the fi fth fl avour profi le, umami. (Look it up when you have a chance, it’s a fantastic read.)
It’s considered poor etiquette to mix wasabi with your soy sauce, it’s seen as disrespecting the soy and ruining the umami effect. Rather, the wasabi should be either placed between the rice and the fi sh in the case of maki (rolls) and rigiri (rice balls with a slice of fi sh on top); if you’d like some more you can add it yourself to your sushi.
STORY BY DAWN MORGAN
By Test
FISH IS NUTRITIOUS, lean protein and can be prepared in so many delectable ways that it should form part of our regular menu. In addition, there is often an increase of fi sh eating during Lent, a long-held cultural
tradition. If you prefer to buy your fi sh fresh, whether from the
vendors in the market, or other connections in the industry, there are a few things you should look out for when making your selection:
Fresh
1. When eating out and sharing a communal sushi platter, always pick up the pieces of sushi and transfer them to your plate using the broad end of the chopsticks. It is considered to be impolite (and obviously unhygienic) to use the same end you place in your mouth.
2. Sushi is also meant to be eaten in one or two bites. Never
take a bite of a roll and place it back on the plate, just eat it already!
3. Don’t be afraid to use your hands as utensils, it’s perfectly acceptable. Use your fi ngers for rolls and chopsticks for sashimi.
4. A clean plate is always good. Do not leave rice on the plate; eat it all, it’s a sign of respect to the chef.
5. Tea goes well with sushi, and so does sake. Sake can be drunk chilled, at room temperature, or hot, but this is based on the preference of the drinker and the season. One thing is certain, high quality sake is never served hot; it destroys the aromas and fl avours and is usually done to cover up the lack of these characteristics in old or poor quality sake.
I hope some of what I’ve written has helped you increase your sushi knowledge and etiquette, so go out and enjoy that sushi.
SUSHI DINING ETIQUETTE:
Jonathan Morgan of Morgan’s Fish House Inc., contributed the above tips on choosing fresh fi sh and also updated Fine Cuisine on the wisdom of today’s frozen fi sh often being a good choice.
“With fi sh being kept on ice, minimal handling, and being quickly packaged, buying frozen fi sh is a good choice. Vacuum sealing eliminates air which is what destroys fi sh.”
He suggests that fi sh lovers can purchase their own home vacuum-sealing device. Failing that, tightly wrap fresh fi sh a few times over in cellophane; then in foil, or place in an air-tight container.While fl ash freezing preserves fi sh well, one should thaw frozen fi sh gradually by removing from freezer and placing in the refrigerator, or using cold water to reduce the temperature; not by rapid thawing in the microwave.Cook fi sh with tender, loving care as chefs caution that over-cooking fi sh can make the fl esh dry.
FROZEN FISHTOIDS
FineCuisine 27
- Eyes should be bright and clear.- Skin should be shiny, clean and of natural colour for the type.- Sniff - smell should not be pungent and offensive.- Press a thumb into sh. It should bounce back and lose the ngerprint quickly.- Gills of whole sh should be rich red.- Gutted sh should have clean cavities, without blood present. Some of you may enjoy the tradition of choosing your own fresh fi sh, but for those of you who are open to alternatives, there is also the option of purchasing frozen fi sh.
FRESH CHOICES
28 FineCuisine
Perhaps you categorize your moods as aspects of your internal being; those deep, intrinsic feelings you can’t explain and others can’t comprehend. And maybe the idea of food possessing the power to alter your moods might seem like a weird, inexplicable, out-of-body experience. Truthfully, your foods comprise vitamins and minerals that have been proven to infl uence various states of being. You’re always being told that you are what you eat, and perhaps
a life of balanced moods begins with what’s on your plate. The trick is in understanding what these proposed ‘mood foods’ are and how you can exploit their benefi ts.
Th e MoodBehind The Food
STORY BY APRILLE THOMAS
YAWN, YAWN, STRETCHDragging around in your pyjamas before work? A breakfast
bowl of oatmeal might help you become that chirpy morning person you always aspired to be. Oatmeal is said to aid in crankiness and irritability. This quick dish is packed with soluble fi bre which slows the absorption of sugar into the blood, thus smoothing out blood sugar levels for that perky feel. You can always personalize this common dish by adding fresh fruits of your choice.
SNOOZING AT THE DESKIt might be your refl ex to reach for a cup of coffee when you
start nodding off at work. But there may be another solution, an orange. This familiar fruit serves as a pick-me-up. Loaded with Vitamin C, it helps pump oxygen around your body and brain for a quick boost.
MENTAL BLOCKWhether you’re having full-on writer’s block or just can’t
remember that word at the tip of your tongue, foods high in Omega-3 are said to massage the brain cells. These “good” fats aren’t like the normal greasy fats and naturally occur in fi sh foods such as salmon, mackerel and sardines. If you don’t have time for a big meal however, a handful of walnuts should also do the trick.Bonus: Omega-3 essential fatty acids are also said to help curb hunger and decrease the risk for developing dementia.
RELAX AND UNWINDAfter a long day you just might be able to fi nd comfort
in a cup. Real teas all originate from the plant Camellia sinensis but are extremely diverse based on how they’re processed and produced. To kick off a calm and relaxing evening you might fi nd that the key is green tea. Green tea is unwilted and unoxidized and doesn’t contain as much caffeine as black tea. The result is a natural, calming effect which is excellent for stress relief.
FEELING SEXY AND SENSUAL?Spice up life in the bedroom with some ginger. Prepared
in any fashion, ginger is a stimulant to the circulatory system. While digging around in the spice rack pick up the nutmeg too! A liberal amount of nutmeg can have a hallucinogenic effect that may serve to restructure the way you think about this spice.
EARLY TO BED, HAPPY TO RISEGrabbing a handful of cherries before bed might help
you sleep more peacefully and wake up in a pleasant mood. These fruits are rich in antioxidants and contain melatonin, a compound that improves the quality of sleep. They also possess a high quantity of carbohydrates which serve to increase levels of serotonin in the body, putting you in a good mood for a fresh start in the morning.
30 FineCuisine
Specialists in coffee, hot sauce, spices, essences and mauby syrup
29 Roebuck Street, BridgetownTel: 426-5218
FLAVOURING BARBADIAN FOODAND DRINKS FOR OVER 50 years…
Specialists in coffee, hot sauce, spices, essences and mauby syrup
29 Roebuck Street, BridgetownTel: 426-5218
FLAVOURING BARBADIAN FOODAND DRINKS FOR OVER 50 years…
31 FineCuisine
