flavour magazine london july 2011

Ham it upThe best Iberico joints in town

RoganicMarylebone welcomes a young talent to watch

Angela HartnettBrand new recipes from a leading lady

WIN!

A luxury

two-night stay at

The Royal

Crescent Hotel!

London | Issue 3 | July 2011

www.flavourmagazine.com/london

flavourfor people who love local food

£3.00 (where sold)

FL3_p2:Layout 1 12/07/2011 17:03

Editor: Holly Aurelius-Haddock Email: [email protected]

Deputy Editor: Nick Gregory Email: [email protected]

Art Director: Richard Cook Email: [email protected]

Advertising: Hayley Francomb, Director Email: [email protected]

Miranda Coller, Director of Sales Email: [email protected]

Alastair McClare, Sales Account Manager Email: [email protected]

Jamie Ford, Sales Account Manager Email: [email protected]

Photography: Diana Chaccour

Contributors: Ben Brill, Cheryl Cohen, Ren Behan, Nick Harman, Duncan Shine, Mitch Tonks, Zeren Wilson

Flavour Magazine

151-153 Wick Road, Brislington, Bristol, BS4 4HHTel: 01179 779188Visit: www.flavourmagazine.com/london

For general enquiries:Peter FrancombEmail: [email protected]

For competition entries:Email: [email protected]

© Copyright 2011 flavourmagazine.com

All rights reserved. Material may not be reproduced without permission of flavour. While we take care to ensure that reports, reviews and features are accurate, flavourmagazine.com accepts no liability for reader dissatisfaction arising from the content of this publication. The opinions expressed or advice given are the views of the individual authors, and do not necessarily represent the views or policies of flavourmagazine.com

flavour magazine provides effective communication through design. We specialise in brochures, corporate identity, advertising, direct mail, marketing and design for print. We have a reputation for clear, creative solutions to communication problems for a number of corporate, sports, financial, charity and leisure industry clients. We maintain the highest of standards, throughout each individual project and our client relationship. We pride ourselves on delivering distinctive designs and ideas that will get you noticed.

For more information, please contact Peter Francomb Tel: 01179 779188 Email: [email protected] Visit: www.flavourmagazine.com

Competition Terms & ConditionsIn addition to any specifically stated terms and conditions, the following applies to all competitions. All information forms part of the rules. All entrants are deemed to have accepted the rules and agree to be bound by them. The winner will be the first entry drawn at random from all the entries sent back after the closing date and will be notified by either post, email or telephone. The prizes are as stated; they are non-transferable and no cash alternative will be offered. All entrants must be at least 18 years old. Competitions are open to UK residents only. One entry per person. Proof of postage is not proof of entry. flavour accepts no responsibility for entries lost or damaged in the post. Entrants agree to take part in any publicity material relating to the competition. The name of the winner will be published in the next edition. The judge’s decision is final and no correspondence will be entered into. Prizes do not include unspecified extras (such as travel). All prizes are subject to availability. Please state if you do not wish to receive any further correspondence from flavour or competition organisers. You may be required to collect your prize.

Please recycle this product.

Welcome to the July issue of flavour!

Welcome to the July issue of flavour! The media world might be a hotbed of intrigue given the current News Corp controversy, but here at flavour HQ, our finger is so firmly on the pulse we don’t need to tap into Gordon Ramsay’s phone to bring you the very latest in food and drink news. Whilst no one would deny that Delia is a national treasure and Nigella a national heartthrob, these ladies have undoubtedly earned their reputation as cooks in the domestic domain. In recent years however, more and more women are choosing to swap the apron strings for chef’s whites, and this month we pay homage to one of the industry’s most inspiring leading ladies on PAGE 42. In the spirit of re-thinking tradition, we also ask whether fusion food deserves a second chance PAGE 16, whether there’s life after Wimbledon for strawberries PAGE 56 and perhaps most importantly, whether one summer holiday really is enough PAGE 34.

We hope you enjoy reading this issue as much as we’ve enjoyed making it.

Happy Eating! Holly Aurelius-Haddock

@haddockbytes

welcome

10 In Season Cheryl Cohen from

London Farmers’ Markets brings you the best of the season’s produce

30 Ham it up The best Iberico joints

in town

42 Angela Hartnett Brand new recipes from

a leading lady

52 Roganic Marylebone welcomes a

young talent to watch

66 Nick Harman “Spare me the passion”

contents

13

42

4

PORTUGUESE WINETASTING

On 26 July, Harrods Wine Shop will behosting a Portuguese wine tasting eventat its store on Brompton Road. Bestknown for its fortified wines, Portugal has a huge range of white, red and roséwines from historic grape varietiesunseen in the rest of the world. Theunknown is always a little daunting butHarrods would like to make it easy withan event focused on this unique andinteresting wine making country.

Over 30 different wines will be on taste,each handpicked to represent thediversity and variety of Portugal. Canapéswill be served and experts will be on handto answer any questions, and to enticeyou further, The Wine Shop will beoffering an additional 10 per cent off allwines on taste for the night. Tickets cost£30 per person.

For more information or to book tickets,please call 020 7893 8777 or [email protected]

> flavour news

this month

FEASTIVAL

The first ever Big Feastival, held at the beginning of July on Clapham commonwas a huge success, with almost 23,000 guests coming through the door overthe whole weekend. Many of the stalls completely sold out of produce – one stallalone serving more than 4,000 tacos, another 3,500 burgers and another 2,500chicken tikka pies.

Rumour has it Jamie Oliver splashed a bit too much super-hot chilli sauce over abreakfast he was made, resulting in a rather speedy exit but always a brave face!

www.bigfeastival.co.uk

COMPETITION WINNERS

Congratulations to Alan Whiskar from Dagenham who wins a Colin Sincair WhiskeyTasting Set and to Gemma Mansfield from North London who wins a three-nightstay with Tregothnan Estate!

WINE MADE EASY

After great results in Gordon Ramsay'srestaurant at Claridges, Gordon’s Mazeand Maze Grill have now also adoptedSmartCellar’s defining iPad wine list.

SmartCellar goes far beyond displaying a digital version of your regular menu/wine list and prices; it also gives youphotography and the background to eachwine too. What will they think of next?

If you have any news or events that you would like to share with us here

at flavour then email [email protected]

FL3_News:Layout 1 12/07/2011 20:17

GOLDEN WONDER

Honey Dew is a 100% organic golden beer. Brewed with the finestorganic honey for a wonderful bittersweet taste, this deliciousdrink promises to please any palate. What's more, it's the perfectaccompaniment to many foods and particularly good withbarbecued meats and fish. Available in the bottled ale aisle, you can get 50p off Honey Dew 500ml bottles in your localsupermarket with the coupon below!

www.fullers.co.uk

VINTAGE AT SOUTHBANK CENTRE

Running from the 29 until the 31 of July, Vintage at Southbank Centre is hosting a celebration of nostalgicBritain – bringing a taste of British food, fashion, music,art and dance from eight decades spanning from the1920s up until the 1980s.

Food and drink feature heavily, with each decade offeringup its own signature selection of era-appropriate nibblesand cocktails. For example if you’re a fan of Cosmococktails, you’ll find these located in ‘Style Studio’ discowithin the vintage 1970s area, or alternatively you can enjoy a tin of lager and some cheesy Wotsits in the‘Warehouse’ 1980s-themed rave. If you’re aftersomething to soak up those cocktails you can venture upto the ‘Penthouse’ terrace and indulge in freshly cookedBBQ food.

www.southbankcentre.co.uk

ON THE COVER

Our cover image this month is taken fromone of the many retro tableware items thatcan be found at The Utterly Sexy Café. This isa highly original, full-service catering andevent company, providing beautifullyprepared food, creatively decorated andelegantly served from vintage and antiquetableware to cater for weddings, christeningsand landmark birthday parties. Charmingwaiting staff in 1950s aprons offer hand-decorated cakes from glistening glass cakestands and tea from silver or china teapots.Must be seen to be believed!

01747 870812 / 07968 868860 www.utterlysexycafe.co.uk

RIVER COTTAGE DVD

Celebrate summer with RiverCottage Summer’s Here out to own on DVD from 1st August. Hugh Fearnley-Whittingstall is back at the River Cottage HQ to celebrate the very best food the summer season has to offer!

As always, Hugh rustles up a range of impressive dishesusing the finest edible delightsfrom the garden, the hedgerow,the river and the stream. From the first crop of peas to some barbecue favourites,Hugh’s garden delicacies arewashed down with lashings ofhomemade gorse flower wine.

✁

PORTOBELLO MARKET

Last month saw the opening of Portobello’sPremier Farmers & Fine Foods Market, an eclectic mix of farm foods with fine flair,which will appeal to food lovers far andwide. It will open Fridays to Sundays from10.30am, providing a wide range of organicand quality food produce from across theUK and further afield, to reflect the diversepalate of today’s ‘Londoner’.

There are over 30 stalls from premiersuppliers including free-range meat andgame from Old Hall Farm, the morning’scatch of fish from Fishmonger’s Kitchenand delicious handmade biscuits and cakesfrom Cinnamon Tree Bakery. Regularcooking events hosted by top-namedLondon restaurateurs aim to get familiesout to learn more about where their foodcomes from and the best way to cook it!

www.portobellofinefoods.co.uk

BACK TO THE CLASS ROOM

Situated in the heart of the City of London, The Class Rooms has its home in the Old Daily Mail headquarters, a magnificent historic building that features not only a culinary academy but a spacious bar and restaurant, three private meeting rooms and three private dining rooms, all furnished with elegant Italian décor and state-of-the-art technical facilities.

The Class Rooms’ Culinary Academyoffers a new generation of cookerycourses, ranging from accreditedprofessional courses to a variety ofshort cookery courses. Catering for allabilities, from the complete novice to themore experienced cook, the Academyhosts several exciting events featuringsome of the world’s most talented andcelebrated foodies.

www.tcrcacademy.co.uk

McSTAINABLE

McDonald's is seeking to enhance its once heavily-criticised environmentalrecord by switching to fish certified by the Marine Stewardship Council. As well as serving up officially sustainable Filet-o-Fish at 7,000 outlets, it will put the MSC logo on cartons, promoting the best-known scheme for preservingfish stocks.

The MSC praised McDonald's, saying itshowed it was committed to conservingthe oceans, which are in peril from over-fishing.

McDonald's in Europe is strong in someareas of ethical sourcing, say experts. On eggs, the company uses only free-range eggs in its breakfast muffins. Beef for its Big Mac and other burgerscomes exclusively from 16,000 farms inthe British Isles. The company also buystea and coffee certified by the RainforestAlliance, an environmental certificationcreated by multi-national companies.

McDonald's says it spends £530m a yearbuying British produce.

✁

FL3_News:Layout 1 12/07/2011 20:17

7

SAFARI SO GOOD

The REAL FOOD Safari Company specialisesin providing a range of gourmet tours andexperiences in Kent and Sussex and is agreat idea by founders Sharon Davies andBrian Rose, who wanted to find a way toshare their passion for local produce and promote the counties as wonderfulplaces to visit.

Their aim is to tell the complete story of real food with informative and funexperiences that take you behind thescenes to meet farmers and artisan foodproducers, whose commitment brings the whole story to life. The trips can be as short as a couple of hours, a completeday, or even a weekend but in every case a REAL FOOD Safari will take you tointeresting places to meet great peopleand to eat some amazing produce…

www.realfoodsafari.co.uk

• AURELIAMayfair goes Mediterranean this monthwhen Aurelia opens its doors. Roka’shead chef Rosie Yeats and executivechef Nic Watt will be heading-up thekitchens so look forward to sharingplatters and a bouncing atmosphere…13-14 Cork Street, Mayfair, W1S 3NS

• ASSAGGINIExpect a plethora of Italian favouritesas this contemporary restaurant fires-up on Haymarket. Dishes will includehandmade ravioli with scampi, Tuscansausage and wild berry panna cotta aswell as the ever-popular sharing plates.71 Haymarket, Piccadilly, SW1Y 4RW

• THE BONNIE & WILDThis part-time restaurant is open every Saturday night in July and will be a fusion between Bonnie Gull Ltd,purveyors of quality Scottish seafood,and the Wild Game Co, who specialisein seasonal game from the Highlands.Look forward to sizzling barbecues attheir Islington venue. 74 Chapel Market, Islington, N1 9ER

• THE GALLERY RESTAURANT The Westbury Hotel in Mayfair islaunching a new all-day-diningrestaurant inspired by the cuisine of Southern France, The French Riviera and Northern Italy. Head chefBrian Fantoni, formerly of Claridges,The Savoy and Enoteca Restaurantleads the team.The Westbury, Mayfair Hotel, BondStreet, Mayfair, W1S 2YF

• POTLI RESTAURANTPotli Restaurant will open on theformer site of Tandoori Nights inRavenscourt Park. The menu isinspired by Indian market cooking and will include dishes like pani purifrom Mumbai's Chowpatty Beach andgilafi sheek from Lucknow, alongsidemore familiar grills, kebabs andcurries. The colourful dining room,decorated with Bollywood posters, will seat 60 and have a feature wall of spice bags (potlis).319-321 King Street, Ravenscourt Park, London, W6 9NH

SENSES OFTHAILAND

Enjoy the exotic taste of Thailandat the Selfridges Food Hall andselected restaurants from 14July to 30 July. Legendary chefIan Kittichai will be in SelfridgesLondon on Thursday 14 July for aspecial Thai evening to kick-startthe fortnight Senses of Thailandfestivities.

Over the fortnight Selfridges haspartnered up with the Royal ThaiEmbassy, Thai Trade Centre andthe Tourism Authority of Thailandso customers can celebrate Thaifood and culture, with live expertcooking demonstrations, foodtastings, modern and traditionalThai dance performances andpuppet shows.

HIX Restaurant and ChampagneBar will be offering four Thaispecials alongside the à la cartemenu, all created by Ian Kittichaifor the duration of the campaign.

www.selfridges.com

ON THEWORD

STREET

FOODIES FESTIVAL

From the 29 to the 31 July, FoodiesFestival will make its home in BatterseaPark for a celebration of fine food, drink and culinary talent. Expect to seeMichelin-starred and top chefs in theChefs Theatre where they will preparetheir favourite dishes live on stage. Shopfor ingredients from local producersselling fresh seasonal produce and buyspeciality food and drink or try hands-onfood and drink masterclasses led byindustry experts, with plenty of tastings.Taste signature dishes from London'sleading restaurants and sip summercocktails from top bars and relax withlive entertainment. There will also becooking with kids masterclasses for thebudding young chefs. So much to do solittle time!

For more details, visitwww.foodiesfestival.com

FL3_News:Layout 1 12/07/2011 20:17

FL3_Ad_Reko p8:Layout 1 12/07/2011 19:58

9

> flavour fab foodie reads

For bookworms who love nothing more than cooking up a feast for family and friends, our

monthly selection of new releases is enough to keep anyone entertained!

RICK STEIN’S SPAINRICK STEINBBC Books, £25

Spain is a country that tantalises every sense with its colourful sights, evocative music, vibrant traditions and bold cookery. In Rick Stein’s Spain, published to accompany a new four-part BBC Two series, Rick Stein explores Spain’s diverse regions in his search for real Spanish food. This journey leads him to discover some of the best tapas bars and taste authentic ingredients. With over 100 location and recipe photographs, this is an essential book for food-lovers as well as a stunning culinary guide to a diverse country with so much to offer.

SPICE IT UPLEVI ROOTSMitchell Beazley, £18.99

The fabulicious Levi Roots is back with a fourth cookery book to bring some Caribbean sunshine and spice to your kitchen. In Spice It Up! Levi has plundered his spice cupboard and shares his favourite recipes to show how to transform the most simple of dishes into tasty triumphs bursting with flavour. The Caribbean is famous for its spices, with its vibrant chilies, pungent peppercorns and fragrant nutmeg, allspice and cinnamon. Everything in Spice it Up! is easy to prepare, easy to cook and sure to add a bit of spice to your life. Nuff said…

I LOVE TO BAKETANA RAMSEYOctopus, £14.99

I Love to Bake is Tana Ramsay’s ultimate guide to family baking and is packed with over 100 recipes of sweet and savoury oven-cooked recipes for all the family, from pies to biscuits to cakes. There are ideas for every occasion; from baked treats for school lunch boxes, fun ideas for children’s parties, through to indulgent desserts for Christmas Day. Tana has built a reputation around her trusted recipes that are always accessible, affordable and can easily be tailored for every taste and diet. I Love to Bake is the perfect companion for both the novice baker and those more experienced.

is the perfect companion

THE GOOD COOKSIMON HOPKINSONBBC Books, £25

Simon Hopkinson loves food and he knows how to cook it. The Good Cook is the result of over 40 years’ experience and is based on Simon’s belief that a good cook loves eating as much as cooking.

Simon explains how the ingredients you choose and the way you cook them will turn a good recipe into a great dish and how a cheap cut of meat cooked with care can taste as nice as a choice cut prepared by indifferent hands.

Structured around Simon’s passion for good ingredients (anchovy and aubergine, cheese and wine, smoked and salted fish, ham, bacon and a little pig) and written with Simon’s trademark perfectionism and precision, this is a book that you will cherish for life.

fab foodie reads

Turn to page 22 to find out more.

PICK OF THE MONTH!

right nEvery month our seasonal selections come from Cheryl Cohen,director of London Farmer’s Markets which runs 18 weeklymarkets throughout the city. She is on the board of LondonFood, works closely with the Farmers' Markets Retailassociation and with London Food Links.

At their best

10

>Cherries

Cherries arrive at market towards the end of June and the beginning ofJuly. The months before are a fraught time for farmers, hoping thatweather conditions are perfect for their fleeting and fragile crop. Wehave beautiful varieties in the UK. At Perry Court Farm andFiveways Fruit Farm stalls at our farmers’ markets youcan taste your favourite varieties before you buy.Sadly, most UK cherry orchards have beengrubbed up, so do buy English cherries andshow your support for this beautiful fruit.Michael Dallaway, of Dallaway’s Cherriesrents out his cherry trees allowing you tocome to the farm and pick your fruit. Hecan also be found at our markets, selling a range of cherries including Premiere,Summit and Sunburst. Cherries are aversatile fruit, pairing beautifully with bothsweet and savoury. This is a whimsy of arecipe, slightly fiddly to make but pretty tolook at and great with picnics or to bring outwith a flourish at the end of dinner. Obviouslyyou can up the quantities I’ve given.

GREEN SPELT SALAD WITH RAW PEAS, BROAD BEANS, GRIDDLEDCOURGETTES AND LEMON VERBENA

Serves 4-6Wash the spelt and cook in plenty of boiling water until soft, then rinsewell in cold water and drain.Meanwhile pod the broad beans andblanch in boiling water for one or twominutes. Drain and leave to cool. Cutthe courgettes into long thin ribbons,and toss in a little olive oil with salt and pepper, andgriddle for about 30 secs each sideuntil just cooked through. Dice thecucumber and use a mandolin to cutthe fennel into paper thin shards. Orcut by hand into thin slices. Toss inlemon juice. Slip the broad beans outof their pods. This won’t take as longas you think.

Put the spelt into a bowl and add thecut vegetables. Pod the peas and add to the salad. Mix all the dressingingredients in a screw top jar, taste and adjust seasoning. Add enough to the salad to coat.

Variations - add fresh herbs of your choice - mint, basil, chivesand parsley all work well. Add chunksof salty fresh cheese - buffalo, goat’scheese, feta or avocado. This makes a great main meal salad or anaccompaniment for cold meatsand poached chicken or fish.

Wild Country Organicswww.wildco.co.uk

>Peas & LemonVerbena

Peas equal summer and we chose a pea pod for the London Farmers’Market’s emblem as the embodimentof seasonality and freshness, andthere truly isn’t anything as good asfreshly-picked pods of peas. WildCountry Organics grow lemon verbena.It’s a beautiful fragrant herb, as muchat home in savoury dishes as sweet. I use it to flavour white wine vinegar, in custard (for an ice-cream), as theperfect iced tea or to garnish a jug ofPimms. I love using peas raw in saladssuch as this one. The green in this recipe is

the green of the sweet summer vegetables.Make the most of the seasons and use whateveryou can find at your local farmers’ market.

> flavour in season

FL3_Inseason:Layout 1 12/07/2011 20:03

CHOCOLATE CHERRY STONES

You will also need a cherry stoner, and either a pipingbag, culinary syringe or a square of greaseproof paperto create a cone. Put the kettle on to boil and break upthe chocolate into a bowl. Stalk side up, stone thecherries so that the hole is at the bottom and the stalkstill attached. Discard the stone, but keep the little capfrom the base of the cherry and set aside. Put thecherries in the freezer to chill whilst you put the bowl of chocolate over a pan of simmering water and leaveto melt. Take off the heat when totally liquid and leaveto cool down. If using, make your greaseproof paperinto a cone piping bag – fold over the nozzle end so thatthe chocolate cannot escape until you’re ready for it.Put the cherries stalk side down on a plate, snugtogether so that they support each other. Unfold or cutyour nozzle end and use to fill each cherry roughly ¾full and leave to harden. Replace the little caps beforefully set. Put in fridge until ready to serve. They willkeep for one day, but I doubt they’ll last that long.

www.perrycourt.com www.rentacherrytree.co.uk

now

For more information contact:www.lfm.org.ukwww.twitter.com/londonfarmers

11

>Samphire

Marsh samphire grows on muddy, sandy flats, oftenaround estuaries and tidal creeks and as you canimagine from the location it has a delicious saltytaste. Rock samphire is harder to acquire and arisky product to harvest as it tends to grow high upon cliffs. Because it’s a succulent, samphire has asatisfying crunch, raw or cooked. You’ll find it atfarmers’ markets fish stalls from now untilSeptember, but earlier is better before the flowershave time to form and it grows fibrous. Most of ourfishermen bring it to market including David andSylvia Jennings and Simon Long, from the Norfolkcoast. It’s common to pickle it, and in Norfolk it’straditionally eaten with vinegar. The sea saltiness ofsamphire works well with eggs. Serve with a salad;sorrel works well with other salad leaves to add asharp tang that takes on the sea salt of thesamphire. The sea saltiness of samphire works verywell with eggs. I’ve used sea vegetables in tortillas& Japanese style omlettes – this is one step along.Serve with a salad; sorrel works well with othersalad leaves to add a sharp tang that takes on thesea salt of the samphire.

SAMPHIRE AND NEW POTATO TORTILLA

Serves 3-4Wash and scrub the new potatoes, cut in half,put into a pan of cold water and bring to the boil.Turn down the heat, simmer until just cooked,then drain. Peel and thinly slice the onion. Over a medium heat melt the butter with theolive oil in a large non-stick or seasoned fryingpan. Add the onion slices and cook slowlyallowing them to caramelise, don’t let them burn. Trim the samphire of its stems and washwell. Blanch for a couple of minutes in boilingwater. Test a piece, depending on the size andage it may need another minute or two. Drain when cooked. Slice the potatoes thickly and add to the onionsin the frying pan. Add more butter if necessary.Allow them to crisp up. Beat the eggs in a bowl,add seasoning (go easy with the salt) and mixgently with a fork. Add with the samphire to thepan, shake it all together and distribute evenly.Leave to cook over a gentle heat until almost set.Put under a hot grill for a minute to firm up andserve warm or cold.

Lemon Verbena

FL3_Inseason:Layout 1 12/07/2011 20:03

12

Goats like to live in sociable groups and The Grazing Goat is no exception. Part of the Cubitt House group, which includes The Thomas Cubitt, The Orange and The Pantechnicon it’s a relatively new member of the herd, although a very ancient animal.

But then this is an old area of London. New Quebec Street in Portman Village is only a souvenir’s throw away from the bustle of Oxford Street and yet it has kept the cosy feel of the small village it once was. In fact the Goat’s name comes from the fact that the area was originally farmland where goats grazed to produce milk for the first Lady Portman.

The Cubitt House Group have made a speciality of finding such old, often rather neglected, properties and bringing them brightly back to life as pubs and boutique hotels through sympathetic restoration and real design feel.

At the Goat the feel is ‘country house’ although which country is debatable. America’s New Hampshire or Vermont is what first springs to mind, as the building has a clean, crisp freshness that makes you think of blue skies, deep forests and healthy living.

And wood is everywhere at the Goat - on the floor, on the walls and on the ceiling in the form of massive beams. So much wood that a pleasant oaky aroma fills the air as you climb the small staircase to reception from the bar below. Down there people are tucking into cocktails and good-looking food and the windows are thrown open to the street of Georgian houses and boutique shops.

The first floor restaurant is all wooden tables of various shapes and sizes, which gives a nicely informal air. A bit too informal as, because the restaurant reception is also the hotel reception, you have to stand about getting in everyone’s way while waiting for someone to become free to check you in. After that though it’s a few more stairs up into the hotel area.

The bedroom and bathroom are picture perfect; the bathroom is all wood and slate and the suite is beautifully art-directed with nice touches such as replica table lights, old-style wall fans and caged lamps suspended from cords. It’s a room that feels more like one in the house you can see opposite and that’s a good thing. You can imagine that you too are wealthy enough to have a house in central London and a soft-top Aston Martin parked outside.

Scallops with pea purée and pea shoots is a classic gastropub style starter, the scallops caramelised outside, tenderly cooked inside and a generous portion. Why pea purée works so well with scallops is a mystery but it certainly does. Chilli salt squid with lime could have done with more spikes of chilli but was a decent take on another very popular dish in town these days.

It was Sunday so one of us had to have a roast, in this case 28 day dry aged Castle of Mey beef rump. The rump was served whole, so it was really more like eating a steak and I think beef should always be served sliced on Sundays. Better was pan fried cod, leeks, baby artichokes, lemon butter sauce with the cod crispy-skinned, the artichokes tender and the lemon butter sauce well worth mopping up with some bread, had there been any bread offered.

The white chocolate tart, raspberry compote and honeycomb ice cream was good, but the blueberry and apple pie and vanilla ice cream could have had a few more blueberries.

It was good to stroll outside after and know bed was just a street or two away. The bed was big and comfortable so we woke refreshed for a bright English breakfast in the street level bar, watching the world go by through the open French windows.

Hotels in London can be mean, depressing affairs even when you pay through the nose. Far better to get your head down and graze at the Goat and properly enjoy a capital night out. ■

GrazingGoat

The

13

> flavour the grazing goat

The Grazing Goat6 New Quebec StreetLondonSW1H 7RQ0207 724 7243

www.thegrazinggoat.co.uk

A word from the owner… “Along with Cubitt House’s co-owner Stefan Turnbull, we bought our first pub in Belgravia. It was incidental really - we liked the building, but it was an undervalued, run-down boozer on Elizabeth Street. The street was extremely quiet when we acquired it but we brought footfall to street; shops starting to appear and the urban evolution continued. As a result, we were invited by the Grovesnor Estate to other areas of London including Pimlico Road and Motcomb Street amongst others. With the help of our team of chefs and floor managers, our sole aim is to tailor our offering to the local community. Our pubs are homely, timeless, with no gimmicks. We feel hopeful that they’ll look as good in 10 years’ time. As founding members of the Sustainable Restaurant Association, it’s important to us that we get it right first time round. We love the business because it brings us into contact with interesting people which is what life is all about – getting involved with local charities, annual street parties and just about anything else where we can pitch in means we can always keep one ear to the ground about what’s good for us.” Barry Hirst, Cubitt House owner.

FL3_p14:Layout 1 13/07/2011 10:19

VOC Punch House

Barrel-aged cocktails? What magicalwitchery is this? Evoking the era of theDutch East India Company and 17th-Centurydrinking, the VOC Punch House age some of their offerings in wax-sealed bottles andoak casks for added richness and depth. We checked out the pioneering cocktails inKing’s Cross and were captivated. Highlightwas a haunting Bergamot Grog made withbarrel-aged Pampero rum, galangal, limeand fresh tobacco leaf. Church candlesticks,shadowy corners, mysterious concoctionsfrom barrels - illicit rendezvous territory.

Gorgeous Grapes

Pyramide Riesling Spätlesetrocken 2009, Rudolf Trossen,Mosel, Germany

German Riesling is back. A hundred years ago the wines were valued above topBordeaux, with poor winesdamaging their reputation over the years. Now there is a swagger to the wines, drivenby the ‘new wave’ of youngwinemakers who are makingthrilling dry wines. Rudi Trossenis a hardcore eco-warrior,complete with Scholl footwear.The Winery in Maida Vale is thepremier source in the UK forGerman Riesling, everythingimported direct from thegrowers. From a tiny and verysteep, pyramid-shaped vineyard,this is the essence of Riesling, a tightrope balance betweenelectrifying acidity and luscious,thrilling citrus and stone fruit.

www.thewineryuk.com

Rock Lobsta

Inspired by the Maine lobster roll, RockLobsta was in town for three days only, atongue-in-cheek celebration of the Britishseaside. Popping up next to hip fashionboutique Luna and Curious in Shoreditch,the Hackney Lobsta Roll was filled with UKlobster meat, Shoreditch Splitter a mix ofcrab and lobster. English freshwatercrayfish was also in the mix. Next up for theteam is Disco Bistro in September, an ad-hoc dining concept involving art, music andfood, springing up in temporary locationsaround London.

Grapevine...A food writer and wine consultant, Zeren Wilson will leave no stoneunturned in his quest to find the hidden gems of London’s food sceneand bring it to you on a plate. Check out Zeren’s restaurant reviewsite for a taste of what he has to offer: www.bittenandwritten.com

Onthe

www.bittenandwritten.com

Follow Zeren on Twitter:@bittenwritten

15

FL3_Grapevine:Layout 1 12/07/2011 20:12

16

Having sampled their irresistible combination of Middle Eastern and modern British flavours, this month flavour pays a visit to Zayti to find out their recipe for success...

Zayti

17

> flavour zayti

Zayti, a family business through and through, is the brainchild of Hedeel Mahdi-King and is taking London food festivals, events and parties by storm. A fusion of Middle Eastern and modern British flavours, Zayti’s recipes and dishes are innovative, current and most importantly phenomenally delicious.

“Having introduced Middle Eastern Food to the Northern Irish market, we wanted to do something just as original in London and so Zayti was born. We knew we had an amazing product as my mother (Shatha) had seen huge success in Belfast with her own deli and restaurants before retiring, but she is back in the kitchen now developing new ideas. We pitched to the industry and consumers and we were completely blown away and humbled by the feedback – you cannot bluff these people.

Our heritage as British Arabs – my family is Iraqi – has brought together East and West in the kitchen. My mum is a perfectionist and she has to have everything absolutely right before we look to take it to the customer. But the whole family spends time fantasising about different ways to combine and delicately balance authentic Eastern with modern British or European flavours to create contemporary arabesque cuisine.

I am involved in something I really believe in. Our mission is to bring deliciously fresh and different food to those who want something more exciting, adventurously exotic and yet that bit familiar. And this is done with an emphasis on natural flavours free from any additives, free-range meat, reduced packaging etc. There are bigger, broader and more important ethical issues to consider and along with my passion for food I want to get these across to the customers. I would not sell a product I did not 100 per cent believe in.

This is a now or never industry. We can’t stand still in what we are doing and what we are giving our customers, so we are always looking to build. The food market is beginning to peak and is so competitive right now, but our standard is to keep our product in the right hands and so to keep its quality. Our business may take longer to build up because of that, but it is not sustainable and nor will it grow as I want it to by cutting corners. We know we are staying in business, no matter how small or big, and thankfully we are yet to receive a single bit of negative feedback. Come and try our food, you will love it too!”

Zayti’s food is crafted from the best raw ingredients they can source and is handmade daily, so it’s always super fresh and bursting with flavour. We fell head over heels for their pistachio and rosewater mascarpone cheesecake, Babylon pasties (think Cornish, but not) and their Turkish delight brownie – given the chance you’re sure to as well. Their stalls can be found at Southbank’s Real Food Market as well as pop up stalls all over London, but try them out for private parties for a more personal and interactive experience. Hedeel and her family will give you some tastes and flavours you will simply want more of!

T: 0207 377 9223W: www.zayti.co.uk E: [email protected]

18

Time and again I am surprised,delighted and awed by thededication to quality and sheerhard work that the producers in the Market show every day of the year in growing, rearingand producing the exceptionalingredients and products wehave come to regard as the backbone of BoroughMarket’s success.

These family-run businesses dare to bedifferent, despite challenging times,remaining true to the demanding standardsand ideals that inspired them in the firstplace. The fire and grit required to keepmoving forward is evident in them all,regardless of whether they have been trading for one year or ten. The commitmentthey show to the Market and their customershas won them respect and a well-deservedloyal following – we are extremely proud of them all.

Glenis ReagonBorough Market Managing Director

Having had an established nursery on The Isle of Wight for more than 30 years, The Tomato Stall began tobring its produce directly to thecustomer in 2001, which coincided withthe renaissance of Borough Market.

Director Jeff MacDonald has seen itall since the market reopened its doors:“This is the place to be and the perfectenvironment to showcase the best ofour products. Although we coverfarmers’ markets all over London,Borough Market takes centre stage as it offers the best of British, but also incorporates excellentcontinental producers.”The Tomato Stall offers fresh,

perfectly ripe tomatoes of all shapes,sizes and flavours, both organic andconventional, while also producing its own pure tomato juice, relish, chutney, award-winning ketchup and a chilli sauce.

“The Isle of Wight gives us 20 per centmore sunshine than the rest of the UKso is ideal for growing the best possibletomatoes,” Jeff says, “and we like tothink that if there has been a newvariety tested then we would haveresearched it here on the island.” The tomato has gained in popularity

over the past few years, with customerswanting the freshest, tastiest and, most importantly, homegrown varietiesavailable to them. Vine tomatoes haveseen this resurgence more so thanother varieties and the extra craftrequired to produce them is not lost on Jeff. “To strike the right balancebetween colour and taste takes a lot of experience and work, but we have got it spot on and are very proud of theproducts we deliver.” For all of The Tomato Stall’s products

and for more information, visit:

www.thetomatostall.co.uk

A founder trader of Borough Market,Richard Vines joined some illustriousnames in London to showcase his rare-breed beef from Hillhead Farm in Chagford, Devon.

Owners Richard and Elizabeth Vinesuse traditional methods to rear a smallherd of crossbred Welsh Blacks andSouth and North Devons on fertile,uncultivated grasslands in the West of England, and these fine old breeds of cattle are the essence of great foodfrom Wild Beef.The meat sold on the stall is hung

for a minimum of three weeks toprovide succulence and depth of flavourand in support it also offers eggs,granola, bacon, chicken, sausages and rapeseed oil.Richard is deeply passionate about

what he does, having set out on his own with just one cow and now rearing a held of more than 120. “The whole thing started off on a

shoe string,” he says, “I grew up ona farm and after leaving the armyand working in London for a fewyears I knew I wanted to get back to the outdoors.“It’s hard work out on the moors

but when you see your product atmarket it’s a rewarding feeling. AndBorough Market is a great place toshowcase our meat. It’s a wonderfulbrand, in a great situation and servedwell by transport. It’s London’s larderand serves a valuable purpose to thelocal community, traders, shoppers and tourists alike.”“My cattle have six miles one way

and four miles the other to graze andthis most natural lifestyle on the purestgrasslands delivers the highest qualitymeat. Soil, cattle and time are our onlyingredients and although the name Wild Beef frightens some people, I canassure you they are as good as gold!”

www.wildbeef.co.uk

The TomaTo STall

Wild Beef

FL3_BoroughMkt:Layout 1 12/07/2011 21:19

Borough Market, 8 Southwark Street, London SE1 1TL www.boroughmarket.org.uk

Elizabeth King started her small family bakery in Nottingham in 1853and, such was the popularity of hermouth-watering pies, she establisheda standard of excellence that has beenpreserved and passed down throughgenerations of piemakers.

Now you will find direct descendantLuke Hartland on a stall at BoroughMarket on Thursdays, Fridays and

Saturdays, always happy to offer a wordon the history of Mrs King’s Pork Pies.“I took over from my dad, Ian, two yearsago and I love it down here,” Luke says.“It really is a community and so gettingup at 3am on a Thursday to make thetrip has never been a problem for me.“My dad started off down here when

the market opened and grew to knowmost of the traders and plenty ofcustomers too. He would be on first-name terms with a whole host of themand when I took over I would always get

asked about him. I have hopefully grown into his role and now share the passion he did about this market.“Us traders will share a pint and

bring the new traders into the fold as well. They are important to themarket as they offer something newand different that keeps the place living and evolving.” With the original, famous Melton

Mowbray Pork Pie still at the heart of the range, Mrs King’s pies todayencompass many more delightful and tempting options - from gloriousGame Pie to satisfying Steak andKidney, Turkey with an added zing of Cranberry and Orange, Lamb with taste-bud tingling Mint Gravy.with numerous award-winners among them.Discover the range for yourself

and the passion behind the pies at:

www.mrskingsporkpies.co.uk

Ted and his wife have been operating a fruit and vegetable stall at BoroughMarket for ten years now and,although times have changed and thenature of markets as an entity havedeveloped into a different beast, havenot yet missed a Saturday trading.

“Markets are in your blood,” says Ted.“We started coming down to Londonfrom Boston, Lincolnshire, andoperating in 18 markets all told, thebiggest being Borough, so we knowwhat we are doing and what peoplewant. It’s a passion that never dies.“We grow an ever-changing range

of seasonal vegetables and salad from our farm near Boston inLincolnshire, as well as a selection of fresh fruit and veg sourced fromother high-quality suppliers.“London is the place to be and we

get from field to stall in as little as 12 hours. Everything we take down is

sold. Times have changed but peopleare more and more interested in fresh, British produce and that is whatwe deliver.”With 130 acres of farmland dedicated

to fruit and vegetables, Ted’s Veg willhave between 30 to 40 items on the stall at any one time, and considering13 varieties of cauliflower are grownthroughout the year you can bet you aregetting the freshest and most seasonalproduce the UK has to offer.For more information about Ted’s Veg

or to make a wholesale enquiry, email:

[email protected]

mrS King’S PorK PieS

Ted'S Veg

> flavour borough market

19

FL3_BoroughMkt:Layout 1 12/07/2011 21:19

sambrooks

> flavour sambrooks

20

FL3_Sambrooks:Layout 1 12/07/2011 21:24

> flavour sambrooks

Some time in August 2008, three universitymates were relaxing at Olympia in Earl’sCourt at the Campaign for Real Ale™ GreatBritish Beer Festival™. It was a great event,much ale was consumed, but there was aproblem. The Champion Beer of Britain thatyear was Alton’s Pride from the Triple FFFBrewery in Hampshire, the best ‘Mild’ wasfrom Cumbria, the Best ‘Best Bitter’ wasfrom Cornwall, Best ‘Strong Beer’:Derbyshire; Best ‘Golden Ale’: South Wales. All excellent brews, but not one from London...

And it wasn’t just the prize-winners, eventhe list of beers generally available at thefestival showed precious few brews fromthe capital. Certainly Fuller, Smith & Turnerof Chiswick were represented, a largeregional brewery and pub chain just on the A4. But that was more or less it.

So, with the optimism for a new idea thatalways seems to follow a drink-fuelled‘Road to Damascus’ revelation, the threefriends decided to open a new craft breweryin the heart of London. To be fair, therewere other breweries in existence in the city then as now, such as Meantime, Zero Degrees and Twickenham, but therewas no doubt that London was grosslyunder represented as a brewing centre.

After an aborted first attempt at brewing,Duncan Sambrook signed up for a course in Brewing Fundamentals and, when thatdidn’t put him off, he knew this was aventure he had to pursue. Ask him nowthough and he will probably concede thatthe catalyst that pushed the venture fromdream to reality was the introduction ofDavid Welsh, late of the Ringwood Breweryin Hampshire. David had the experience toforesee and mitigate the early risks, andwith his guidance, the brewery was foundedand test brews were created.

Fast forward to 2011, and Duncan is nowrunning a 20-barrel plant in Battersea, withthe brewing overseen by Kiwi Head BrewerUgo van Deventer. Over 60 local pubs nowcount themselves as semi-permanentstockists of the beers, either in draught orbottles; plus the beers may well turn up asguests elsewhere.

So, the first beer to be produced wasWandle (ABV: 3.8%) a session best bitternamed after the River Wandle, which runsfrom Croydon down past the brewery andinto the Thames. The colour is somewherebetween pale brown and gold. Waft it underyour nose and you get a sense of fresh,natural, herby good health. The taste startsoff quite sweet, with a sort of lemony-peach tinge, but then the bitterness comes through to give it a come-back-for-more finish.

A little stronger is Junction Ale (4.5%), thename needs little explanation as we areclose to Clapham here... OK, I’m no good at colours, but I’d say this was a sort of‘russet’ reddish brown. It’s quite differentfrom Wandle in that there is none of thecitrus, and actually the taste has moresubstance and more than a hint of toffee. It almost tastes creamy, too. It’s quite rich,and for me is ideal for cooler days.

Sambrook’s now brew an occasional rangeof seasonal beers, with the PowerhousePorter and a Royal Wedding CelebrationSpecial having gone down particularly well.But the brew for the summer, launched onJune 20th, is Pale Ale. Much lighter incolour, but at 4.2% still a substantialsummer pint. It has a lightness of feel thatmakes it tempting to quaff on a hot day inthe city. I only came across it a couple ofdays after its release on a visit to CAMRA’sNational Pub of the Year, The Harp inCovent Garden, and it is a very welcomeaddition to the Sambrook’s beer list.

For details of pubs in your part of Londonstocking Sambrook’s ales, they have amonthly list on their web site. The beers arealso available in bottles from the breweryshop in Yelverton Road, Battersea.

Sambrook’s BreweryUnits 1 & 2Yelverton RoadBatterseaSW11 3QG0207 228 0598

www.sambrooksbrewery.co.uk

With the optimism for a new idea that alwaysseems to follow a drink-fuelled ‘Road to Damascus’revelation, the three friends decided to open a new craft brewery in the heart of London

21

FL3_Sambrooks:Layout 1 12/07/2011 21:25

22

> flavour simon hopkinson

THE GOOD COOK

As his six-part BBC1 series hits our screens this month, Simon Hopkinson, complete with his trademark perfectionism and precision, shares some recipes every good cook will surely want in their repertoire...

23


DÉLICES D’ARGENTEUIL

Serves 4

Ingredients16 asparagus spears, trimmed and peeled8 very thin slices Parma ham

For the pancake batter:100g flour2 eggsLarge pinch of salt250ml milk50g butter, melted, plus extra for cooking the pancakes

For the hollandaise sauce:3 egg yolks250g unsalted butter, meltedA little salt and freshly ground pepperJuice of ½ a lemon

Method1 To make the pancake batter, whisk the flour, eggs, salt and half the milk together in a mixing bowl until smooth. Add the butter and enough of the remaining milk to achieve a thin, pouring cream consistency. Leave to stand for 30 minutes. To make the pancakes, use a 20cm, preferably non-stick frying pan (or a favourite pancake pan if you have a nicely ‘seasoned’ one) and in it melt a small amount of butter. Allow it to become hot and sizzling, then pour in enough batter to thinly cover the base of the pan. This first pancake is usually a bit of a mess, so chuck it out and start afresh.Now, without greasing the pan again, make 8 thin pancakes and put to one side.2 Preheat the oven to 180°C/350°F/gas mark 4, and a grill to hot. Boil the asparagus in well-salted water for about 5 minutes or until tender when pierced with a sharp knife. Once done, lift them out with a slotted spoon and drain on a tea-towel.3 To assemble the délices, take a pancake, lay upon it a slice of ham, then arrange 3 asparagus spears on top. Roll up and place in a lightly buttered baking dish.Bake in the oven for about 15–20 minutes, or until crisping at the edges.4 To make absolutely sure that they are heated through, pierce one with a thin skewer, leave for 5 seconds and lightly press against your bottom lip. If only warm, give them a few more minutes.5 Remove the délices to a warmed serving dish and coat each one carefully with a spoonful of hollandaise sauce, running it along their length. Very briefly flash the délices under the grill until only just gilded by the heat. Serve at once.

“These utterly delicious pancakes hark back to

my initial apprenticeship during the school holidays

in a French restaurant called La Normandie...”

24


Serves 6–8

Ingredients1 leg of lamb, butterflied, to give a rough boned weight of about 2–2.3kgSaltOil

For the marinade:150ml light soy sauce50ml sesame oil2 cloves of garlic, peeled and crushed½ onion, peeled and choppedBig knob of fresh ginger, peeled and slicedJuice of 1 orangeJuice of 1 lemon1 tbsp muscovado sugar1 dsp ground coriander1 tsp ground cumin1 tsp ground turmeric½ tsp cayenne pepper½ tsp paprika

For the sauce:90g coriander leaves40g mint leaves8 cloves of garlic, peeled and crushed2 tsp ground cumin1 tsp sugar1 heaped tsp sea salt75ml lime juice7–10 green chillies200g Greek yoghurt

Method1 Liquidise all the ingredients for the marinade until as smooth as possible (pass through a sieve to be on the safe side, if you like). Lay the lamb in a large

lidded pot or plastic box, and pour over the marinade. Massage the mixture into the meat, turning it over and over, until well coated. Cover with the lid (or clingfilm or kitchen foil) and put into the fridge for 24 – and up to 48 – hours, turning occasionally. Lift out the meat from the marinade, shake off excess liquid and drain well in a colander, say, then pat dry with kitchen paper. Season well with salt and smear oil over the entire surface; hands are best here.2 Heat a large, stove-top ribbed grill to medium-hot or, even better, a charcoal-fired barbecue; this will give the most perfect and authentic results. Otherwise, preheat the oven to 200°C/400°F/gas mark 6, and put the lamb on a wire rack fitted inside a roasting dish. If using the

grill or barbecue method (the cook should keep the grill/coals at moderate to high temperature), lay the meat down and leave to quietly crust over the heat for about 20 minutes. Turn over and repeat (this is timed for nicely pink meat). If you choose to take the oven route, the turnings and timings remain about the same, but check that the lamb does not brown too much. Remove to a large serving platter and leave to rest for at least 10 minutes – and up to half an hour – while kept warm, loosely covered with foil if necessary. Note: it is intentional that the surface will have become slightly blackened in parts, but the resultant pink inside contrasts winningly with the carbonised exterior.3 Meanwhile, place all the green sauce ingredients in a small food processor and

Lamb cooked in this way is terrifically tasty – whether marinated or not. The skin of the meat sizzles and blisters almost to a blackened crust, in the most agreeable fashion. I have cooked this on an open fire in Greece, where the charcoal gives an incomparable flavour to the meat, but a ribbed stove-top grill offers excellent results, too. Do make sure that you allow the lamb to rest once cooked, as this will ensure an even pink.

“The skin of the meat sizzles and blisters almost

to a blackened crust, in the most agreeable

fashion...”

MARINATED BUTTERFLIED LEG OF LAMB WITH ASIAN GREEN SAUCE

25


GAZPACHO

Serves 6

Ingredients75ml sherry vinegar300ml water1 cucumber, peeled and chopped1 red pepper, seeded and chopped1 green pepper, seeded and chopped500g very ripe tomatoes, skinnedand chopped150ml passata3 cloves of garlic, peeled and crushed1 onion, chopped1 scant tsp TabascoSmall handful of mint leavesSalt and freshly ground black pepper400g crushed ice200ml extra virgin olive oil

make a smooth, slack purée. Pour out into a bowl and set aside until the lamb is ready.4 Transfer the lamb to a board and neatly carve into 0.5cm slices. Return them to the platter, collect any resultant juices and spoon over the meat. Serve with the green sauce and a plain green salad of, say, crisp Cos leaves simply dressed with lemon and olive oil.5 To make the hollandaise sauce, whisk together the egg yolks with a tiny splash of water in a stainless-steel pan over a very low heat, until thick and smooth. Now, off the heat, continue to whisk while pouring in the melted butter in a thin stream, leaving behind the milky residue that has settled in the bottom of the butter pan. Season the sauce and sharpen with lemon juice, to taste. Keep warm.

Hot Spanish sunshine. Chilled glass of fino. Lunch. 2.30pm. Post swim. T-shirt and damp shorts. Espadrilles. Panama hat. Unfed cat at sandy feet. Beachside table. More hot Spanish sunshine. Cold soup. Gazpacho.

To serve:Tiny croutons, made from a few slices of white bread, cubed, and then fried in olive oil until crisp

Method1 Purée all the soup ingredients together until smooth, apart from about a third of the olive oil. Pass through an ordinary, round sieve (not too fine) while pressing down well on the vegetables to extract as much flavour as possible. Whisk in the rest of the olive oil and pour into chilled soup bowls; although the soup is already chilled due to the crushed ice, drop an extra ice cube into each serving. Hand round croutons at table.

Simon Hopkinson’s The Good Cook is published by Ebury, RRP £25

26

beautifully swedish

27

> flavour rekorderlig

As the cider market continues to blossom, we at flavour think Rekorderlig is a great addition to the party and here’s why...

Rekorderlig Cider was first created in 1999 using the purest spring water in Vimmerby, Sweden, where it is

still brewed today. From its humble roots, Rekorderlig has retained its character to become a much-loved, fourth generation family-brewed cider.

It is available in five permanent flavours; traditionally refreshing apple, distinctively crisp pear, dry and juicy wild berries, zesty strawberry-lime and the newest addition, the fruity apple-blackcurrant, Rekorderlig’s take on ‘cider and black’. During the winter months, there is also a limited edition Rekorderlig Winter Cider. Available from October, this apple cider infused with cinnamon and vanilla combines the best flavours of the season. Serve it over ice or hot with a slice of orange for the perfect winter warmer.

The apple cider is a semi-sweet cider that uses only the finest apples to produce a truly delicious drink bursting with

freshness. The pear cider is so crisp and ultra refreshing that it is perfect for lazy summer days – pour onto ice for a totally magical experience. The strawberry and lime cider is a truly wondrous tipple that, when combined with ice and a few mint leaves, explodes into a taste sensation bursting with life. The wild berries cider is just that; it has the nose of fresh, juicy, wild country berries with the subtle undertones of pear to produce a slightly drier finish on the palate. But what a finish it is!

While maintaining its proud Swedish heritage, Rekorderlig Cider has a sublime uniqueness and delivers whatever the occasion, reaching out to those who yearn for something refreshingly different.

In a busy and thriving market, Sweden’s latest import is sure to catch fire and bring cider to the table with gusto and aplomb ¬– or an apple or a pear!

www.rekorderlig.com

From its humble roots, Rekorderlig has retained its character to become a much-loved, fourth generation family-brewed cider

THE PERFECT SERVE

• Rekorderlig strawberry and lime• Handful fresh mint leaves• 1 lime, cut into wedges

Part fill a glass with ice, add three to five fresh mint leaves and pour over Rekorderlig strawberry and lime.Squeeze one wedge of lime over the cider and drop the lime into the glass.

STRAWBERRY AND LIME

> flavour gregg wallace

GreggWallaceWhat made last year's CelebrityMasterchef winner Lisa Faulkner standout from the competition?She was the best cook. People aresurprised that it's nearly always men whowin amateur Masterchef then they'reequally surprised that it's women who dowell in Celebrity Masterchef – it's alwaysthe best cook who wins and has nothing todo with their gender really.

What are some of the best (and worst)dishes you've sampled on the show?The best one was probably also the mostsimple - Stephen Wallis' Poire belle Hélènewhich is such a beautiful dish. One of thesillier ones I saw was a lady saying she wasgoing to make a sweet potato soufflé byslicing King Edwards potatoes andsprinkling sugar on top!

If you could only work on Masterchef,would it be amateur, the professionals orcelebrity?Definitely the amateur one – I just love tosee members of the public fulfilling theirdreams,

Of the amateurs, who has most impressedyou over the years?John [Torode] and I say how the standardkeeps on getting higher and it does. I thinkDhruv Baker is such an exceptional talent,

but then Mat Follas before himwas very, very creative too.We've had them cooking onstage on Masterchef LIVE andthe stuff they come up is juststunning.

Are your co-hosts JohnTorode and Michel RouxJunior very different towork with?Yes – because they comefrom very differentbackgrounds. Michel wasbrought up in a verydisciplined French family andJohn Torode was brought up inbig egalitarian dining rooms inAustralia. My taste falls smack bangin the middle – I use and enjoy both theirrestaurants depending on the experience Iam after.

How did you come to work with John?We were approached separately to be onthe show, without the production teamrealising that we'd known one another forover 20 years. I never knew when I met himall those years ago – when I was runningaround as a greengrocer trying to find himcoriander with the root on – that we'd endup in such a rewarding partnership and assuch good friends.

This month we talk with co-host of Masterchef, aprogramme that’s grown into one of the UK’s biggesthotbeds of undiscovered cooking talent...

10 questionswith…

28

Gregg Wallace:Layout 1 12/07/2011 21:49

29

> flavour gregg wallace

As each series develops and the gapcloses between contestants, how does that

affect the judging criteria?I think in the earlier rounds you’relooking for potential, and as you gettowards the final, you’re looking forthe finished article – there comes apoint where potential has to stopand delivery has to begin.

Are you looking for contestantswho can forge a career beyond theseries?We need them to have the skill set,the touch and the palate that a headchef might have, without necessarilythe ability to run a brigade. We’rebasically looking for someone whocan taste finished dishes in theirhead with a bunch of rawingredients in front of them.

You supposedly have a weaknessfor all things sweet – is this true?

All kids have a sweet tooth and Inever lost my absolute delight insomething sweet and sticky!

Wallace & Co. 146 Upper Richmond Road PutneyLondonSW15 2SW

T: 020 8780 0052W: www.wallaceandco.com

Serves 4

Ingredients500g cooking apples, peeled, cored andthinly sliced50g soft light brown sugar125g butter, plus extra for greasing125g caster sugar2 eggs125g self-raising flour, sifted1 tablespoon hot waterCustard or cream to serve

Method1 Grease a 1.2 litre shallow ovenproofdish. Arrange the apples in the dish andsprinkle with the brown sugar.2 Beat the butter and caster sugartogether in a bowl until pale and fluffy.Add the eggs, one at a time, adding alittle flour with the second egg. Fold inthe remaining flour, then the hot water.3 Spread the mixture evenly over theapples and bake in a preheated oven,180°C (350°F), Gas Mark 4, for 40-45minutes until golden brown. Serve withcream or custard.

EVE’S PUDDINGWorth sinning for: light fluffy golden apple hidden under a sweet sponge topping.Lucky old Eve is all I can say.

I never knew when I met him [John Torode]all those years ago – whenI was running around as agreengrocer trying to findhim coriander with theroot on – that we’d end upin such a rewardingpartnership...

Gregg Wallace:Layout 1 12/07/2011 21:49

> flavour power of 3

30

3THE POWER OFHigh on the hog, Nick Harman checks out the three best places to jamon it up in London.

31

> flavour the power of 3

Jose Pizarro is the name that other Spanish chefs drop when talking about the best in the business. At long last, and not a moment too soon, Jose finally has his name over a restaurant door at the eponymous Jose’s in historic Bermondsey High Street.

It’s a small place, the chefs are all crushed up in one corner, but the dishes flow out non-stop to a noisy, happy crowd standing at the counters and sampling the day’s specials. It could be his hake fritters, already legendary for their moist, tender fish and crispy batter. The razor clams, when available, are cutting-edge gorgeous and of course there are daily dishes to drive foodies crazy with lust.

Hams hang from the ceiling ready to be called to the bar. “Refrigeration is bad for them,” says Jose looking up at his hams with paternal pride. “They don’t need it and see how the fat glistens!” A good ibérico ham has fat in abundance; it melts on the tongue sending shivers of ecstasy down your throat. Good ham is worth seeking out.

“I have been to see our producer in Spain,” adds Jose. “The way the pigs live is vital. They are free to roam around searching for the acorns that give ibérico ham its unique flavour. That walking about develops their muscles and improves the meat. And of course they are happy and have a good life.”

You can taste that good life in the slices he passes me to try. Maldonado ham comes from pigs that roam the woodlands of south-western Spain, with the cuts cured and aged for nearly three years in natural drying houses and cellars 500 metres up in the San Pedro mountain range. The pigs eat almost nothing but acorns and so the flavour is sweetly nutty with a uniquely light saltiness afterward.

If you live or work in Bermondsey, and even if you don’t, Jose’s place is one to seek out for great ham, a range of dry sherries and of course great tapas too.

104 Bermondsey Street, London SE1 3UB www.josepizarro.com

Sam and Eddie Hart own Barrafina and Fino, the latter probably the first, decent Spanish restaurant in London and created at a time when paella and chips, served by cockneys with mock Spanish accents, seemed to dominate.

Barrafina is their tapas bar and it doesn’t take reservations. This was something of a novelty at the time but the brothers, who are both chefs, were subconsciously tapping into an emerging trend. Now queuing to spend your money is all the rage.

For Eddie Hart jamon is crucial to the bar, he too believes that while the profit on ham is miniscule and barely worth it, there’s no way it will ever go off the menu. And whilst he could use the cheaper hams, there are a range of levels within the denomination ibérico from so-so to simply super, he sticks to the best from suppliers he has carefully selected.

Barrafina offer Jamon de Jabugo, from producer ‘5 Jotas’. A 50g portion with jamon is served freshly sliced so translucently thin that you can almost see through it. “It’s so bad when people hack away at it either through ignorance or bad knife skills,” says Eddie.“Jamon is rather like chocolate, it melts almost exactly at body temperature and to do it well it has to be thinly cut. The sensation of the meat melting and releasing its unique flavour in the mouth is what jamon is all about.”

“This jamon comes from Andalucía and we went to see the animals, which are of course entirely acorn fed. It’s not the most expensive, like a Gran Reserva, but we don’t find those hams are really worth the extra money.”

He knows his jamon and the brothers’ Barrafina is a magnet for foodies. The bustle and noise is as good as it gets, a real feel of Spain. And if you can’t get a seat straightway, you can always get a sherry while waiting to pig out on the jamon.

54 Frith Street, London W1D 4SLwww.barrafina.co.uk

Iberica restaurant is not your standard Spanish place. No attempt to mimic a classic old tapas bar here, instead the vibe is cool, airy and modern. The double height ceilings of this old garage on Great Portland Street grab the London sun and sling it inside where it glistens on four legs of jamon ready to be sliced and served.

One is serrano, which is less expensive than ibérico as it comes from the Landrace breed of white pig who are quite different to the Jamón ibérico pigs in quality. Still delicious, the serrano is a lighter rose pink, more delicate in structure and with far less fat.

At iberica they have a passion for the pig and you can order a tasting plate of ibérico jamons and take a taste trip through Spain’s jamon variety, or alternatively taste the different ‘expressions’ as the age and the price of the hams mount.

No one would ever argue that Jamon Ibérico de Bellota is cheap but as Marcos Fernandez the owner/director of Iberica explains, the mark up for him is very small. When these little piggies go to market, they command a very high price. “A Spanish restaurant without the best hams is unthinkable though.” he says carving small slices for us to try. “See how this toenail on this leg is rounded?” he says. “That means the pig has lived its life roaming freely, the nail has naturally worn as the animal forages about eating free-range acorns. Not all jamons have this tell-tale sign of quality.”

Sherry is Marcos’s recommendation to drink with his range of hams. “It cuts the fat and refreshes the palate,” he says. “But of course a good red wine is equally wonderful.”

Sitting in Iberica savouring the aromas and sampling the ham is the perfect way to while away an hour or two in the afternoon. Iberica’s croquettas, made as croquettas should always be with the scraps from the ibérico, are the best in town so don’t leave without eating at least three.

195 Great Portland StreetLondon W1W 5P3www.ibericalondon.co.uk

(Pictured left-hand page)

Iberica Food and Culture

Jose’s Barrafina

32

With a distinct feeling of nostalgia,award-winning chef Giancarlo Caldesioften recalls his first memories ofBirra Moretti in his home country:"As a young man I remember it beingsold in big baskets along withOrangina and traditional lemonade - it was always considered a real treat.During harvest time we would stop ourwork at lunchtime and drink it on balesof hay while we ate together."

Today, Italian culture is still foundedon the simple pleasures of good foodand good conversation spent in thecompany of family and friends. Andfor those looking to experience a realtaste of Italy, opening a bottle ofMoretti is the perfect place to start.

This summer Birra Moretti opens itsdoors and welcomes you to CasaMoretti, a series of exciting eventscelebrating life's simple pleasures - great beer, great food and greatconversation. To start with, in July theauthentic Italian beer brand launchesa series of ‘pop-up’ gourmet pizzamasterclasses in the capital.

When Luigi Moretti sold his first bottle of beerback in the summer of 1860, he could not haveimagined the legacy he was starting...

The simplepleasures in life:

food, familyand friends

FL3_Moretti_NEW:Layout 1 12/07/2011 21:54

33

Italians live by this phrase, which means“the sweetness of doing nothing.”Goodness, blessings and simple pleasuresare in every moment, we just need topause long enough to notice. Never isthis more evident than when we sitaround a table, sharing good food andgreat conversation with friends and family.

In Italy lunch is the most important mealof the day, which is exactly why in August,Casa Moretti is celebrating this way of lifeand giving you the chance to host a longlunch in venues across London.

To find out more and how you can takepart in a long lunch, which involvespreparing and cooking a feast for up tonine of your chosen friends under theguidance of Italian Chef Giancarlo Caldesi,simply visit the Moretti Facebook page.

Pop-up pizza sessions will take placebetween 11am-4pm at the followinglocations:

Wed 27 July - Exchange SquareThurs 28 July - Soho SquareFriday 29 July - Canary Wharf

To find out more about this and otherexciting events planned this summer,join the Birra Moretti Facebook page at www.facebook.com/morettiuk

il dolce far niente

when and where

Join Giancarlo Caldesi to make yourvery own gourmet pizzas. Choosingbetween a classic Margherita, Diavolo(spicy Italian sausage, mozzarellaand tomato) and Marinara (anchovies,capers, black olives, mozzarella andtomato) – who said there was no sucha thing as a free lunch?

Not only that, but each guest willbe treated to a Birra Moretti beer,alongside recipes to recreatean authentic dinner for friends and loved ones.

If you don't have much time to stopdon't worry, you'll still be able tosample delicious slices of pizza,dough balls and other Italian treatsas you pass by. You'll even be givenrecipe cards to recreate the Morettiexperience at home.

For more info, visit Birra Moretti atfacebook.com/morettiuk

Feeling a little dazzled by the city's bright lights? then retreat to the country and

gaze at the star-filled skies just like nature intended...

34

T he de Savary family have beenhoteliersfor more than 30 yearsand have created some of the

world’s best loved destinations, includingSkibo Castle in Scotland and Bovey Castleon Dartmoor. Their recently launchedCary Arms in Devon has received ravereviews and awards, not least for itsgastro-pub dining and stunning revamp.

They are now adding the newly restoredOld Swan & Minster Mill to their portfolio.At the heart of the bucolic village of OldMinster, between Witney and Burford andset in 65 acres of gardens and wildflowermeadows, the property lies on the RiverWindrush in the Cotswolds.

City eSCapeS

Old Swan & Minster MillCombine the charm of the bygone years, a good measure of

modern convenience and a romantic setting and you’re some

way to understanding the Old Swan experience...

FL3_City(e)scapes:Layout 1 13/07/2011 11:43

35

Built 600 years ago, the inn is a myriad ofcosy dining rooms and snugs. Log fires burn in huge fireplaces, dazzling freshflowers are arranged throughout and thesmell of beeswax and polish pervades therooms, instantly making you feel welcomeand at home.

The 16 charming guest bedrooms in theOld Swan are all different; beautifullyappointed with elegant, traditionalfurnishings and classic de Savary touchesthroughout. Alternatively, guests can optfor the more contemporary rooms at theadjoining Minster Mill. The younger sisteris only 200 years old and the rooms here

are smaller, cute and crisply fresh withgreat views over the magical gardens or river.

The atmosphere is warm and friendlyand the staff welcoming and enthusiastic.Dining is excellent and includes simplycooked gastro-pub dishes made fromthe very best local produce, as well asthe trademark de Savary ‘adult nurserydishes’.

In the gardens, guests can enjoy flyfishing,tennis, petanque, badminton and croquetand an amble around the awardwinninggardens and water meadows should not be

missed. A spa treatment room has beenadded offering guests world-classtreatments from Parisian brand, Yon-Ka.

Old Swan & Minster MillSchool Hill, Minster LovellWitneyOxfordshire OX29 0RN01993 774441

www.oldswanandminstermill.com

"The inn is a myriad of cosy

dining rooms and snugs...

instantly making you feel at home"


FL3_City(e)scapes:Layout 1 12/07/2011 22:47 Page 3

3737

BishopstrowHouse Bishopstrow House is without doubt

one of the finest luxury hotels inDorset and Wiltshire, and is a temple

to relaxation where guests receive thewarmest of welcomes and the ultimate inhospitality. Whether you choose to retreatfrom stress and pressure in the Halcyon Spa or take time to reflect in the calm,contemporary surroundings, the ambienceof Bishopstrow House makes you feel as though you have arrived in a trulymagical place.

The bedrooms are as characterful as the public rooms and all are beautifullyfurnished. Each of the 32 rooms has theirown distinct personality - from theluxurious country house opulence of theOval Room to the understated elegance ofthe Longleat Room.

Award-winning Head Chef Frank Bailey has the reigns of the Mulberry experience,an all-day foodie extravaganza set in threerestaurants. Using the finest, freshestingredients, sourced locally whereverpossible, the result sees genuinelyimaginative dishes that delight and inspireon the 2 AA Rosette à la carte menu. Asidefrom the main restaurant there is also aconservatory with a casual and informalapproach to dining or the Mulberry Terrace,where the menu has a variety of dishesfrom healthy salads and snacks to indulgentcakes and cocktails. All areas overlook thewonderful Bishopstrow gardens.

The cool design of the classical andcontemporary Halcyon Spa, complete withthermal and treatment rooms, fill you withan air of peace and tranquillity. Take insome tennis on the indoor or outdoor courts

or a workout in the gym before finishing off your pampering in the highly rated hairsalon. You may feel a little over-cooked now so there can be nothing better than tosit by the outdoor heated swimming pooland enjoy a cocktail or glass of Champagneover a lazy West Country sunset.

Bishopstrow House is the ideal getawayand, combined with the spa, it is the perfectromantic retreat or place to visit with thewhole family. Longleat Safari and AdventurePark, Salisbury Cathedral, Stonehenge andThe City of Bath are also a stone’s throwaway. There is something for everyone, andeveryone should leave Bishopstrow with a few less wrinkles and a few more smiles.

Bishopstrow House Hotel and SpaWarminsterWiltshireBA12 9HH

01985 212312www.bishopstrow.co.uk

city escapes

Stay for two consecutive nights on eitherroom and breakfast or room, dinner andbreakfast and receive 15 per cent off the daily best available rate. Offer includes

a complimentary ancient Arabic cleansingritual in the Halcyon Spa for two.

Additionally, you receive 15 per cent off all pre-booked treatments in the spa. Offer available until 31st August.

Reservations must be booked by 8th August.

Please quote flavour when booking.

EXCLUSIVE READER OFFER


FL3_City(e)scapes:Layout 1 12/07/2011 22:54 Page 3�

3939

dart marina

Dart Marina Hotel & Spa – thewaterside retreat that will draw you back time and time again…

Dart Marina Hotel & Spa, situated within a few steps of the magical River Dart, is a rare find. Set in an Area of OutstandingNatural Beauty in Dartmouth, Devon, a more stunning location is hard to imagine and one glance at the Rivermeandering by is enough to make youbreathe a little easier.

It’s the kind of place which draws peopleback time and again and not just because of its mesmerising location, but because of the warmth of the team who work there, the stylish yet relaxing atmospherethroughout the Hotel & Spa and the superb local produce, which can be found on every menu.

This combination is what makes DartMarina a place where people take an hourover a great cup of coffee and the papersand it’s what makes people come back toenjoy another ‘dose’ of total relaxation. But for many guests it is simply a wonderfulplace to rejuvenate; king-size beds withcrisp linens and plump pillows, fluffybathrobes and soft towels, a chairpositioned perfectly to watch the yachts sail by or a massage treatment to leave the skin glowing.

Dart Marina’s elegant fine dining RiverRestaurant, which holds two AA Rosettes,has exemplary standards of cuisine, winesand service. Wildfire Bar & Bistro buzzeswith soft jazz, cocktails and Champagne,and the best kind of Devon seafood grill.For a friendly, traditional pub atmosphere,

The Floating Bridge has a menu that reflects everything that is good about honest pub food - Devon crab sandwiches,beer battered cod and homemade chips,local ale and, of course, desserts servedwith rich Devon clotted cream. Head chefTom Woods delights in using local andseasonal ingredients sourced from Devonwaters, pastures and producers, and heworks with each season.

The health spa is a haven for totalrelaxation - experienced and welcomingtherapists offer luxurious, holistictreatments, which leave the skin glowingand aid a blissful night’s sleep. The world-renowned House of Elemis treatments areused alongside a new range of organichand, nail and foot treatments from PinksBoutique. There’s an exercise suite, a pool,a steam room and drench showers toreinvigorate and refresh.

Time spent at Dart Marina might mean aboat trip along the River Dart to a vineyardfor lunch, sitting on the beautifully cleanbeach at Blackpool Sands, a long walkthrough ancient woodland, a morningbrowsing the local galleries, a river cruise or a fishing trip, or a visit to a local garden,and then back for a Devon tea and warm,freshly-made scones by the riverside.

Dart Marina Hotel & SpaSandquay Road Dartmouth, Devon TQ6 9PH01803 832580

www.dartmarina.com


The Deer Park has recentlyreopened following a majorrefurbishment. Situated in 80

acres of unspoilt Devon countryside,this 18th Century country househotel is ideally located to exploreDevon’s dramatic coastline and theheather clad rolling hills of DartmoorNational Park.

The Deer Park is an unpretentiousfamily focused hotel which has thewarmth of a truly English countryhouse. From the moment you arriveup the mile long drive, you’ll find thateverything, from your bedroom andthe service to the exquisite food andrelaxing atmosphere is created tomake you feel right at home.

The hotel has 16 en-suite bedroomswhich have all been individuallystyled to capture the essence of country living. The principle rooms in particular boast stunningcountryside views out towards theRiver Otter.

The restaurant has built an enviablereputation for both its quality andatmosphere, offering a range ofdishes to delight all senses.

Stroll around the grounds throughwooded walkways, take a dip in theoutdoor swimming pool or cosy up inthe lounge with your favourite book.The hotel’s private five mile fisheryon the River Otter also provides theperfect place for a spot of fly fishing,so you really can do as much or aslittle as you please during your stay.

The Deer Park Country House Hotel,Buckerell Village, Weston, Honiton,Devon, EX14 3PG

01404 41266 [email protected]

www.deerparkcountryhotel.co.uk

the deer park

city escapes


city eScapeS

41

St. Moritz

For over 50 years, locals and visitors alike have beaten a trail toTrebetherick's St Moritz Hotel and

this summer will see yet another reason forpeople to wind their way up the picturesquelanes to this renowned spot. The wholereason the hotel is called the St Moritz isthat the original owner had a major passionfor food and, back in the day, the Swissresort was the epicentre of the Europeangastronomy scene. He therefore sent all hischefs there to train and named his Cornishhotel the St Moritz so this commitment wascrystal clear.

Half a century on, the hotel is a very differentplace following a stunning £15millionrebuild by brothers Hugh and Steve Ridgway.Their influence has seen the inclusion of 16 stunning super-suites, a range of

gargantuan apartments, the celebritys’favourite Cowshed spa and a gleamingoutdoor swimming pool. However, thecommitment to the very best of foodremains steadfast.

Head Chef James O'Connor takes up thestory, "Here at the St Moritz Hotel food has always been a key passion and I’m honoured to take up this tradition and drivethe acclaimed St Moritz Restaurant.Excitingly however, and just in time for the summer holidays, we’re opening a newpoolside restaurant, ‘Sea Side’ at the St. Moritz, with breathtaking views acrossthe Camel Estuary and out to Steppa Point.

"The location instantly relaxes you and the new restaurant's menu andsurroundings will reflect this vibe all the

way. I'm planning a fresh new menu with arange of relaxed dishes that are lighter instyle and healthier, cooked with less butter and cream. There will be lots of fish,antipasti and dishes to share –all perfect for a summer’s day with a large glass ofchilled wine!”

Sea Side at the St Moritz will be openbetween 12 midday and 6pm every day of the week.

St Moritz HotelTrebetherickWadebridgeCornwall. PL27 6SD.01208 862 242

www. stmoritzhotel.co.uk

Dedicated to your comfort, indulgence & enjoyment...

The perfect escape!

> flavour angela hartnett

42

angela hartnett

Angela Hartnett MBE needs little introduction. She is one of the brightest talents to have emerged on the UK food scene and one of the most high-profile women in the industry. She has emerged as one of Britain’s busiest and most successful chefs and in addition to serving exquisite cuisine in her restaurants, Angela has made her name by appearing on several television programmes and she has published a string of sumptuous cookbooks.

During her childhood, Angela’s Italian grandmother and mother instilled in her an appreciation and love of good food, and after completing a degree in Modern History at Cambridge Polytechnic she began on her road to stardom and food accolades.

In 2004 Angela gained her first Michelin star and also won a legion of new fans appearing alongside her mentor Gordon Ramsay in ITV’s Hell’s Kitchen. She competed for Wales in the Great British Menu competition for BBC Two in 2006. Just a year later, she was awarded an MBE for services to the industry. She now owns Murano, the Mayfair restaurant she ran under Gordon Ramsay and most recently took over Whitechapel Gallery Dining Room in East London.

This month, we’re delighted to feature recipes from her latest book The Taste of Home and hope that you’ll find them as inspiring as we find Angela…

Mouth-watering recipes from the UK’s top female chef...

43

> flavour angela hartnett

Pea soup

Braised Swiss chard with Fontina and mushrooms

Serves 4

1 litre vegetable stock500g frozen peas6 mint leaves200ml crème fraîcheDrizzle of olive oil, for servingSalt and freshly ground black pepper

1 Pour the vegetable stock into a pan and bring to the boil – you can use water if you don’t have any veg stock.2 Add the frozen peas and mint leaves, bring back to the boil and cook for 2 minutes. Drain, reserving the stock.3 Blitz the peas in a food processor or blender with half the stock. Pour the purée back into the pan and add enough of the remaining stock to make a smooth soup. Season to taste.4 Add the crème fraîche and a drizzle of olive oil before serving.

Serves 8

150g digestive biscuits100g butter, melted, plus extra for greasing350g cream cheese70g icing sugar2 tsp lemon juiceGrated zest of 1 lemon½ tsp vanilla extract300ml double cream200g blueberries2 tbsp caster sugar

1 Grease a 20cm loose-bottomed cake tin. Put the digestive biscuits into a plastic bag and crush them with a rolling

pin. Mix them with the melted butter, then press the mixture into the tin in an even layer.2 Mix the cream cheese in a bowl with the icing sugar, lemon juice and zest, and the vanilla. In a separate bowl, whisk the cream and then fold it into the cream cheese mix.3 Spoon the filling onto the biscuit base and smooth the top with a spatula. Place in the fridge for a couple of hours to set.4 Meanwhile, put the blueberries in a pan with the caster sugar and cook them gently. Leave to cool.5 When the cheesecake is ready, remove it from the tin, spoon the blueberries over the top and serve.

Serves 4

500g Swiss chardJuice of ½ lemon1 tbsp olive oil250g wild mushrooms1 garlic clove, chopped25g butter25g flour300ml milk, warmed150g Fontina cheese, freshly grated30g Parmesan cheese, freshly grated30g breadcrumbsSalt and freshly ground black pepper

1 Remove the leaves from the chard and trim the stalks. Bring a pan of salted water to the boil, add the lemon juice, then blanch the stalks until tender. Drain

and set aside.2 Heat the olive oil in a frying pan and sauté the mushrooms until golden. Add the garlic, then the chard stalks and finally the leaves and stir everything well. Preheat the oven to 180°C/ Fan 160°C/Gas mark 4.3 Melt the butter in a small pan, add the flour and cook for 2 minutes. Slowly add the milk and whisk to make a thick sauce. Season with salt and pepper, then add the Fontina and allow to melt.4 Mix the sauce with the chard and mushrooms and pour into a buttered ovenproof dish. Sprinkle over the grated Parmesan and breadcrumbs.5 Bake in the preheated oven for 20 minutes until heated through and golden brown on top.

You can use frozen peas for this beautiful soup, so it is really quick and simple to make.

Vanilla cheesecake with blueberries

44

Capote y toros

This new sherry and tapas bar from old hand Abel Lusa of Cambio de Tercio, personifies the flourish of the matador’s cape (capote), and the dazzling colours of the flamenco dancer, the space a garish blend of pink, red and yellow. Influence of the bull (toros) is all around this tiny venue, and on the art hung on the bright walls. A clattery atmosphere jangles the nerves, but adds a welcome note of bonhomie and Andalucian style.

The quality and execution of the dishes belies the lowly “sherry and tapas bar” moniker. This is serious quality food of real panache and confidence, a nod to the other venues which are part of the group. The experience of an established restaurant group is gold dust in this frenzied atmosphere of relentless London openings - and it shows.

Silken Iberico cheeks steeped in Oloroso sherry, nestling on indecently textured potato, invigorated by a backnote of peppery olive oil, is a show-stopper. Even more joyful at £6.50 for two glorious nuggets.

Carpaccio of marinated codfish is served at perfect room temperature, studded with zesty orange pieces and black olives, and is pretty and lovingly presented. Classy stuff.

Top grade “Cinco Jotas”, the über tier of Iberico ham, is expertly carved, and a groaning plate of selected cuts of Iberico with lomo, chorizo, and ham is stupid value at £12.

Galician octopus is a refined, plated version of the familiar Pulpo a la Gallega, traditionally served on a wooden board,

but all the other elements are here, smoked paprika, potato, punctuated with shards of sea salt. Anchovies marinated in Palo Cortado vinaigrette are a palate- enlivening perfect appetiser, making salivatory instincts kick into overdrive. Pass me that Manzanilla.

Only a dish of roasted cod in a chorizo crust fails to hit the heights, not enough of the fun sparks of chorizo in the mix. The wicked glint in the eye of the Jamón hanging above had a more compelling siren call.

Then there is the sherry list. Sherry is now firmly back in the groove on the London dining scene - this list trumps them all. Wine is relegated to the back of the list and plays second fiddle, the sherries covering all bases with a commendable

Iberico cheeks. For Zeren Wilson this month, the sordid thrill of seeing those two words saw a casual read of the menu turn into a frantic grabbing of the last two stools.

45

Capote y toros

Palo Cortado offering. Wines are infuriatingly presented, amongst slapdash label images, confusing presentation, and is painful to navigate. No matter, sherry is the star here. We hoover up a couple of bottles of zingy, bone-shakingly dry La Goya Manzanilla at £13 for a half-bottle, and are happy simply with this.

The night we visit there are chinks in service, the result of inexperience and mild panic - we forgive all for the sweet smiles and genuine enthusiasm. On the air-kissing, Prada-wearing, Maserati- driving, stretch of Old Brompton Road, this is a welcome blast of Spain from the shores of Jerez.

The memory of those silken Iberico cheeks remains....

Capote y Toros157 Old Brompton RoadLondonSW5 0LJ0207 373 0567 www.cambiodetercio.co.uk

> flavour capote y toros

Winners of three gold stars at last year’sGreat Taste Awards, Six O'clock Gin and Six O'clock Tonic are the new champions of the Bramley and Gage range.

The blueprint for Six O'clock Gin and SixO'clock Tonic is balance, poise andprecision, values upheld by Michael Kain,who has created both a clean and smoothLondon gin and a natural bittersweet tonic.When combined, the whole becomesgreater than the sum of the parts.

For the gin, Michael carefully balancesjuniper with six other botanicals to chimetogether as sweetly as any timepiece.Orange peel adds citrus in delightfulharmony with floral elderflower, resultingin a clean, smooth and richly flavoured gin.

Six O’clock Tonic is an all-natural Indiantonic water made with real sugar andcontains no saccharin or artificialpreservatives. The bitterness comes fromnatural quinine extract and this melds withacidity from lemon and lime extracts.

Quench your thirst this summer with theultimate British aperitif – creating your very own moment of “ginspiration” before dinner.

www.sixoclockgin.co.uk

g> flavour loves

INSPIRATION!

FL3_6Gin:Layout 1 12/07/2011 22:37

47

> flavour hubbub

Hubbub, an Ocado-style service, brings together the quality and service of the best independent shops with the convenience offered by the supermarkets.

For founder Marisa Leaf, the goal is to make it easy for more people to shop locally and, in so doing, ensure that the small businesses that are the lifeblood of communities thrive. Customers order online from their local greengrocer, fishmonger, butcher, baker etc and Hubbub delivers everything in one go, in a one-hour time slot at the customer’s convenience.

Hubbub visits the shops and collects the orders face-to-face so everything is freshly prepared (and they get to have a gossip with the shopkeepers!). Prices are the same as in the shops and customers receive their order all in one delivery.

Hubbub handpicks the shops it works with for their exceptional quality of produce and service. These shops include some of London’s best independent food businesses: Ottolenghi, La Fromagerie, Frank Godfrey Family Butcher, Saponara Italian Delicatessen, Earth Natural Foods, Fin and Flounder, Hansen & Lydersen, Paul A Young Fine Chocolates and Ginger Pig.

They currently deliver to most of Highbury, Islington, Finsbury Park, Stoke Newington, Tufnell Park and Kentish Town, with plans for London expansion imminent and a countrywide presence on the horizon.

“Many people prefer to buy from their local independents but are too busy to get to them. By taking orders online and delivering, Hubbub makes it possible for more of us to shop locally,” says Marisa.

Hubbub customers get the best quality seasonal food delivered at a time of their convenience with the added feelgood factor of supporting their local independent shops. Plus you’ll never have to grapple with an over-enthusiastic traffic warden or stand in a supermarket queue again! What could be better? Visit www.hubbub.co.uk and use postcode N5 1QJ to access the site if your own postcode is outside Hubbub’s current delivery areas. ■

pick of the crop

By taking orders online and delivering, Hubbub makes it possible for more of us to shop locally

> flavour high road brasserie

48

The High Road Brasserie is a bustling French-style bistro on Chiswick High Road, sitting below the High Road House Hotel and Members’ Club, all part of The Soho House Group. The Brasserie offers both indoor and outdoor seating all year round and is open daily from 7am on weekdays and 8am at the weekend.

The Brasserie is very popular with the local residents of Chiswick, offering a family-orientated, suburban atmosphere particularly during the day and at weekends. A full Breakfast Menu is offered as well as a Set Lunch Menu (two courses £12.50/ three courses £15.50), making it a popular hub for mums with kids during the week.

Saturday Brunch is also a busy time, offering breakfast such as Eggs, Any Style On Toast (£5.00) or French Toast with Rhubarb and Cream (£6.50). I am also told by the chef that the Sunday Roast (£17.00) with a choice of chicken or rib of beef, served with roasted new potatoes, cauliflower cheese and summer greens, is also popular with families. A menu for ‘Little People’ is available for £6.00 with a choice of ice-cream or fruit for pudding.

We popped into the High Road Brasserie for a mid-week evening supper and although there were one or two children dining with their parents, there was a good mix of groups, couples and post-work catch-ups; I am told this is the ‘media’ end of town. The lively atmosphere inside could be seen spilling

out into a large area with tables on the pavement, giving the brasserie its classic French bistro/café feel.

The décor is modern and neat, with a large bar directly in front of the entrance, an open kitchen to one side with tables in front and cosier corners with leather bench-lined walls in a section to the right. Most striking is the Victorian tiled floor throughout the brasserie, offering a patchwork of colours, patterns and interesting designs which enhances the friendly and laid-back atmosphere of the house and staff.

On our visit there were many aspects of the menu which were seasonally-inspired, with classic choices such as English Asparagus with Poached Egg and Hollandaise for starters (£7.50) or a light Broad Bean and Pecorino Soup (£5.50). The small plates are ideal for sharing; the Spiced Aubergine and Flatbread, Deep Fried Camembert with Onion Chutney or Sausage Rolls and Ketchup (all at £5.00/3 for £14) would also soak up an evening beer very nicely.

Stand-out seasonal mains and desserts included Lamb Rump, Spring Carrots and Salsa Verde (£15.50) and Strawberry Shortbread (£6.00) - both perfect for a summer’s evening.

All-in-all, the menu at the High Road Brasserie would offer something suitable for most palates at any time of the day, with its relaxed atmosphere making it a popular and friendly local hub. ■

On the quest for seasonal food, this month Ren Behan visits the High Road Brasserie on Chiswick High Road for a relaxed summer’s evening supper.

High Road House & Brasserie162-170 Chiswick High RoadLondonW4 1PRTel: 0208 742 7474 www.brasserie.highroadhouse.co.uk

high road brasserie

Ren Behan also writes a seasonally inspired family-friendly food blog at www.renbehan.com - Follow her on Twitter @RenBehan

51

> flavour chef profile

I’ve worked as a chef for nine years now, starting my career in South Africa where I worked in some top hotels in Cape Town. Then I got a call from London to come over and I began working for the Soho House Group. Back home I cooked mainly fusion and Thai food so British cooking was a bit of a change for me and I had to learn pretty quickly. That’s what is so great about being a chef - you can keep changing and keep trying something different.

At the High Road Brasserie we create the menu by cramming in as much seasonal food as possible and by using produce when it’s at its best. We are very aware of sustainability and try as far as possible to source British produce so we don’t have to wait for it to come from abroad. I’m looking forward to using crab over the summer or you might see some sea bass fillets with a chunky olive tapenade on the menu. We’ve served lots of British asparagus this season and we’re looking forward to including some courgette flowers soon too.

The dining experience at the Brasserie is very laid back and focuses quite a lot on comfort food. We have an open kitchen and we’re quite a lovely bunch which people can hopefully see from where they are sitting. It’s not very formal

and we try to keep the food nice and simple. Our summer cooking is really fresh and light.

I’m continually inspired by other chefs and there’s always something new going on at the brasserie. We actually have two kitchens in the building, as we have the members’ club too, and once a month a chef comes in to join us and show us some new tricks. Recently, Anthony Demetre visited, who is such a good chef. You can see that he loves being in the kitchen. It was also great to see Tom Aitkens, who came in a little while ago. One cook book I’m reading at the moment is Anthony Demetre’s new book called Today’s Special - A New Take on Bistro Food. It’s kind of similar to what we are doing at the moment.

In London I enjoy eating at Nobu or Alain Ducasse at the Dorchester. I loved the food in Cape Town but there’s a restaurant at the moment in Spain that I’d love to go to called Mugaritz. It was awarded third place in The World’s 50 Best Restaurants recently and it would be really inspiring to go there. As a chef I don’t think you can limit yourself to one type of food and it’s always good to try different things. ■

chef profile

High Road House & Brasserie162-170 Chiswick High RoadLondonW4 1PRTel: 0208 742 7474 www.brasserie.highroadhouse.co.uk

Name: Devon BoyceOriginally from: Cape Town, South AfricaHead chefs at: High Road Brasserie, Chiswick

mason & taylorOn the Bethnal Green Road you will find an unusual restaurant where the food and drink are both the most important items on the menu.

52

53

> flavour mason & taylor

Mason & Taylor is a restaurant, or more accurately, a craft beer and real ale bar that happens to serve great food. Those familiar with this part of the city will remember the Green And Red Mexican restaurant that was previously on this site.

Opened in December 2010 after an extensive refurbishment, Mason & Taylor has a delightfully modern and airy feel to it. Shiny wooden floors tapering towards the entrance, a series of pillars which – for all I know – are probably structurally essential but nonetheless add a certain endearing faux-grandeur to the place, which is only accentuated by the wooden-topped marble bar. The metallic railings that skirt the staircase down to the basement seem slightly at odds with the rest of the decor, but there is a strong sense that defying expectations is pretty much the point.

Neither restaurant, nor pub, nor wine bar – this is actually a ‘beer bar’, a phrase that may seem pleonastic but which accurately reflects the importance of the choice of unusual and carefully selected ales, lagers, ciders and speciality beers on offer.

Open in the evenings during the week, and all day at weekends, the blackboards list the beers available, all of which are taken from a quarterly beer menu, available to download from the website. The current menu runs until the end of June.

There are up to 12 draft beers on at any one time, as well as up to 40 bottled and speciality beers, of which about 15 get swapped every three months.

All the beers have tasting notes in the manner to which we have become all too accustomed when drinking wine but, given that there is arguably a wider variety of styles and flavours of beer than of wine, there is ample justification and the Mason & Taylor list manages for the most part to avoid pseudish pretensions.

The ‘house ale’ is an eminently quaffable session bitter called Hophead from the Dark Star Brewery down Brighton way. At a mere 3.8%, it’s light and refreshing with more than a hint of citrus in the aftertaste. Indeed I have seen beer drinkers at festivals keep a half of this by them as they trawl through stronger brews, because Dark Star Hophead helps to clear their palate better than the passion fruit sorbet that is always never available at beer festivals... Given that many of the beers here are priced very much to reflect their connoisseur status, Hophead is a very reasonable session ale.

Equally pale, but at the other end of the ABV scale is Chimay White, rare on draught in the UK and, at 8%, to be treated with respect. It doesn’t taste all that scary, although the aroma of bananas suggests something quite substantial. In terms of flavour, there’s a combination of lemons and honey that just sails the right side of reminiscent of a cold remedy.

For something a little darker, served in a Harry Potter-style goblet, try Belgium’s Westmalle Dubbel. The malt just leaps out and grabs you by the taste buds and unleashes a huge array of flavours... Is that caramel? Blackberry? Damson? Apple? Yes, and lots more besides. An absolute classic.

Another popular choice is Brooklyn Lager – unsurprisingly brewed in New York. This is not a lager like we are used to in the UK. Much, much darker than the homogenised stuff we usually get, and brewed in the traditional Viennese style, this has a more substantial ‘nose’, and a drier flavour. Caramel is clearly in evidence, battling with the malt for supremacy, before both give up and call it a satisfying draw.

There are also a regular American stout and choice of ciders, but these change so quickly that you’re better off asking a member of staff to talk you through them when you visit.

In addition to the draught beers, there is a bewildering array of bottled beers to sample. From the current batch, Mason & Taylor’s own recommendations speak for themselves...

Schneider’s Weisse Aventinus is not a traditional ‘white beer’ as the name suggests, but is a ‘cracking, rich ruby doublebock’. At 8.2% it is another beer to be savoured rather than quaffed.A couple of bottles from Bristol’s Beer Factory take centre stage too. No 7, a fully rounded and tasty best bitter; and Southville Hop, an impossibly exotic pale ale that seems to feature any fruit you care to name – there is definitely pineapple, guava and grapefruit and you can’t help feeling more summery as you take each sip.

The food is designed as relatively light dishes to accompany the beer. Much is made of the traceable provenance and seasonality of the ingredients – sourced locally wherever possible. Expect potted crab with capers and toast; or boar & apple sausages; or nettle, goat cheese and tomato tart. Each dish is around £5 and the staff will be happy to recommend the best beer to accompany your food, or vice versa. ■

Neither restaurant, nor pub, nor wine bar – this is actually a ‘beer bar’ that happens to serve great food...

Mason and Taylor51-55 Bethnal Green RoadLondon E1 6LA

0207 749 9670

On the Bethnal Green Road you will find an unusual restaurant where the food and drink are both the most important items on the menu.

Rog

anic

54

55

> flavour roganic

The espresso shot is downed in an instant, and Ben Spalding, the 24-year-old Head Chef at Roganic in Marylebone, recounts getting his fingers burnt with a restaurant which very nearly opened with him at the helm.

Three days before his restaurant was due to open in Folkestone, he was seeing everything unravel before him. He was told bluntly by his business partner that the money simply wasn’t there to open for business. A tangled web of failed loan applications brought the vision to a shuddering halt. “Even worse it was two days before my first wages from him, he had included it in the loan! I couldn’t believe it.”

Stunned by the news, the reality of the situation revealed itself. “He had applied for several loans from various money sources with a complete business plan over several months, had been getting knocked back by them and decided not to tell me. He pretended everything was fine. I hit the roof.”

With a family and young child to support, life took on a darker hue as he realised he would have to look towards London for work. “I had created a restaurant in Folkestone that had everything, forty covers, right on the sea, making our own salt and butter, I poured six months of my life, heart and soul into it...”

Having been in the kitchen at L’Autre Pied in Marylebone, and at Rhodes W1, Ben was swiftly involved in a damage limitation exercise. “After I cooled down I contacted various contacts in London who we then met with to find funding. It was too short notice, it was clear it wasn’t going to happen - I was gutted. The effects were devastating, to the point now where I live in London five-days-a-week to work because of our flat contract commitments. I’ve had to sacrifice my family because of

incompetence. I listened to many people close to me who told me to cut my ties with this guy and I decided to look for a new project - which ended up being Roganic.”

His time spent working with Simon at L’Enclume in Cartmel has been ideal preparation for the working partnership they now have. “Ultimately it’s Simon’s business but my kitchen. He expects me to run it properly and consistently. Simon is giving me an incredible amount of trust, responsibility and respect. We write the menus together, I must keep his ethos and style but I have free will to create, which I thrive on.”

Forty dishes have been created for the opening, which will come on the Roganic menu over the following months coming back next year, refined and stronger. One of his favourites will be the seawater cured Kentish mackerel, sea beet, onions and honey. At 24-years-old there is clearly precocious talent here, with a period at Per Se in New York under Thomas Keller to his name, and time spent in Melbourne.

“Thomas Keller is an incredible chef, Per Se is without doubt the best place and best meal I have ever eaten anywhere. Utterly inspirational.” Now he’s back in London, I ask him if he feels both New York and Melbourne are still leading the culinary dance in many ways. “Yes I would, just about. I lived and worked there in 2006 so times have changed and London is now very close behind with underground movements like The Loft Project and The Young Turks. Then you have places like Polpo and Terroirs providing accessible and affordable dining.”

There is a palpable energy emanating from him as he speaks, a crackle of excitement - he’s almost feverish. An amateur DJ, he answers in an instant when asked how he lets off steam. “Clubbing at Fabric for some hedonism!” ■

I’ve had to sacrifice my family because of incompetence. I listened to many people close to me who told me to cut my ties with this guy and I decided to look for a new project - which ended up being Roganic

Roganic19 Blandford StreetLondonW1U 3DH0207 486 0380

www.roganic.co.uk

> flavour summer fruits

56

A good strawberry is like a burst of summer sun – whether you’re picking your own straight from the field, eating strawberry pavlova for afternoon tea or tossing them into a pitcher of Pimms, strawberries are the true taste of sunshine.

Summer fruitsSweet Eve is the result of a 25-year breeding program developed by master berry breeder Peter Vinson. It is an everbearer variety, meaning each plant produces fruit again and again from June to October. Everbearers are not as dependent on daylight as other varieties, making them ideally suited to the UK climate. Because Sweet Eve has been bred in UK it is more suited to the UK climate than other varieties that have been bred overseas.

Eating strawberries dates back to Henry VIII’s royal court, and we Brits have always been fond of the sweet, aromatic fruit which signals the start of the summer. With such a historic and long established connection with strawberries, it’s hardly surprising that so many of us have fallen into the trap of using the same staple recipes to showcase our English strawberries. Try something different from our selection of simple serving suggestions to truly make the most of this sensational summer fruit...

Rec

ipes

cou

rtes

y of

ww

w.s

wee

teve

stra

wbe

rry.

co.u

k

57


SWEET EVE STRAWBERRIES DIPPED IN MELTED CHOCOLATE AND TOASTED PISTACHIO NUTS Serves 4Preparation time: 15 minutesCooking time: 10 minutes

Ingredients500g ripe Sweet Eve strawberries100g icing sugar for sifting250g dark 70% cacao solid chocolate100g raw shelled pistachio nuts200ml whipping cream50g caster sugar

Method1 Hull the strawberries with a metal spoon. Place them in a bowl and sift the icing sugar over them. Mix well, and set the bowl aside, cling filmed.2 Break the chocolate into small squares in a heatproof bowl, and place the bowl over simmering, hot water that is in a saucepan over a low heat. The steam from the hot water will rise, and gently melt the chocolate. The water must not boil so hard so that it directly bubbles up to touch the bottom of the bowl containing the chocolate. When the chocolate is all melted, take the saucepan and bowl off the heat, and set aside to cool gently.3 Using a dry, non-stick frying pan, toast the pistachio nuts very carefully. When they are golden brown, and their aroma is filling the air, remove from the heat. When the nuts have cooled, chop them into small pieces. S4 Whip the cream till it forms soft peaks with caster sugar. Spoon the cream into a serving bowl. Prick the bottom end of a strawberry with a cocktail stick, dip the strawberry into the melted chocolate, and then roll it into the chopped, toasted pistacchio nuts. Lay each finished strawberry on a serving platter, with the cocktail stick, so that the chocolate can reset. 5 Serve the strawberries with the whipped cream, for dipping into.

Strawberries, melted chocolate and toasted pistachio nuts

form a flavour combination made in heaven.


58

Risotto doesn’t have to be laborious – you can make it in the oven. In this recipe, rich buttermilk is used as a more acidic foil to cut through the sweetness of the strawberries. If you can’t find buttermilk, just add a generous squeeze of lemon juice to the same quantity of fresh milk.

Serves 4Preparation time: 15 minutesCooking time: 40 minutes

Ingredients250g of Sweet Eve strawberries1 litre of buttermilk (or plain milk with the juice of 1 lemon mixed in)100g soft brown unrefined cane sugar

Zest of 1 unwaxed lemon200g of Arborio or Carnaroli risotto rice1 cinnamon stick250ml fresh cream, for servingUnsalted butter for the roasting tin

Method1 Pre-heat the oven to 180°C. Butter a small roasting tin, or small apple crumble Pyrex dish.2 Hull the strawberries and cut them into small pieces. Place them in a small bowl and set aside.3 Combine the buttermilk, the sugar and the lemon zest in a bowl and mix well.4 Scatter the risotto rice and strawberry pieces evenly across the buttered roasting

tray. Break the cinnamon stick in two pieces and place them, set apart, in the tin. Pour the milky liquid evenly throughout the roasting tin.5 Bake the risotto in the pre-heated oven for around 30 minutes, or until the rice grains are very soft, and the top of the risotto is crisp and browned. You may need to cover the top of the rice pudding with aluminium foil to stop it from darkening too much.6 When ready, remove the roasting tin from the oven and set the rice pudding aside for 5 minutes to cool slightly, before serving with double cream.

SWEET EVE STRAWBERRY OVEN-BAKED RISOTTO WITH BUTTERMILK

59

SWEET EVE STRAWBERRY RIPPLE MASCARPONE CHEESE PARFAIT A parfait or semifreddo is just a frozen pudding. It is a very simple way of making a very delicious type of ice-cream but without too much stirring, leaving the cook ample time to focus on other preparations. Mascarpone cream cheese from the north of Italy is the perfect ingredient to accompany strawberries. The crunchy Amaretti biscuits and Amaretto liqueur in the recipe add a delicious bitter almond flavour to cut through the creaminess of the pudding. All ingredients can be found in a good supermarket or delicatessen.

Serves 6Preparation time: 15 minutesFreezing time: 12 hours (or overnight)

Ingredients100g soft Amaretti biscuitsSplash of Amaretto liqueur400. Sweet Eve strawberries4 fresh free-range eggs, separated100g caster sugar250g Mascarpone cream cheese

Method1 Carefully line the base and the sides of a 1 litre plastic lunch box, or plastic Tupperware container with cling film that overlaps down the side. Set aside.2 Crush the soft Amaretti biscuits all over the base of the lunch box, and drizzle some Amaretto liqueur over them. 3 Hull the strawberries and crush them in a bowl, using a fork. Spoon half of the crushed strawberries all over the Amaretti-covered base of the lunch box.4 Using an electric whisk, beat the egg yolks with the sugar, till light and fluffy. In a separate bowl, whisk the egg whites till they form soft peaks. Fold the egg whites into the egg yolk and sugar mix, carefully retaining the air inside the mix.5 In a roomy bowl, whip the Mascarpone cream cheese until it is softened, then fold the egg mix into the Mascarpone cheese, a little at a time, until it is fully blended.6 Spoon half the Mascarpone mix over the crushed strawberries in the lunch box, and level the top with a spatula. Spoon the remaining half of the crushed strawberries on top of the Mascarpone

Strawberries, melted chocolate and toasted pistachio nuts form a flavour combination

Strawberries, melted Strawberries, melted Strawberries, melted Strawberries, melted Strawberries, melted Strawberries, melted Strawberries, melted Strawberries, melted chocolate and toasted chocolate and toasted chocolate and toasted chocolate and toasted pistachio nuts form a pistachio nuts form a pistachio nuts form a pistachio nuts form a pistachio nuts form a pistachio nuts form a pistachio nuts form a pistachio nuts form a flavour combination flavour combination flavour combination flavour combination

cream, and then spoon the remaining half of the Mascarpone cream on top, as the final layer. Take a metal skewer, and very gently insert it into the mix, turning it around to create a “ripple” effect of red and white.7 Bang the Tupperware box gently on the work surface, to evenly distribute the mix. Then cover the parfait mix with the overlapping cling film.

8 Freeze the parfait overnight. Just before serving place the open Tupperware box on the table, and place an upturned serving plate on top of it. Now turn the Tupperware box upside down, gently, so that the frozen parfait and the cling film slide down on the serving plate. Remove the cling film, and slice the parfait into individual portions. Serve.

Mascarpone cream cheese from the north of Italy is

the perfect ingredient to accompany strawberries


> flavour best burritos

6060

Before we knew about Mexican food, people used to have to go to restaurants with names like ‘Banditos’ and ‘Tequila’, where they had cactuses on the tables and a Gypsy Kings CD on repeat in the background. Everybody would eat chilli con carne and nachos with cheddar cheese that was hard like leather and fajitas made out of Old El Paso Mexican spice kits like your mum used to get at Tesco’s in the Nineties. Everything tasted of salt. “If this is what Mexican cooking tastes like, then count me out,” everybody said to themselves, reaching for a glass of water and trying to burp. They don’t have Tesco’s in Mexico, so Old El Paso spice kits are probably quite hard to come by there. Instead, they slow cook meat for hours in coriander, cumin and smoked chillies, and black beans, lime rice and big dollops of guacamole (80p extra). If you put all these ingredients in a wrap with sour cream and salsa, and fold it up so that it’s slightly too big to fit in your mouth, you get to call it a burrito. It’s delicious. These days everybody in London loves burritos – they’re the new thing. All the people who work in media go to the Daddy Donkey van on Leather Lane every Friday for a lunchtime treat. My sister’s boyfriend sometimes walks all the way from King’s Cross just to look at the van. People stand there and order ‘chicken Daddy Ds’ and ‘naked fajitas’ as though they’re saying something entirely normal, like ‘skinny latte’, or ‘Big Mac’.

As Mexican menu boards continue to crop up on every street corner, this month Ben Brill takes a look at the burrito craze sweeping London…

best burritos

61

> flavour best burritos

The queue sometimes stretches back for miles, right past the old couple who sell nuts and Bombay mix and back to the stall that sells out-of-date biscuits and cheese. Nobody really minds waiting though – the queue always moves quickly, and when the sun’s shining, and the man on the fruit stall down the way is mumbling “strawberries a pound – let’s clean these strawberries up,” to no-one in particular and the kids from the art school are walking round looking serious, Leather Lane’s one of the best places you can be in London. The burritos are great as well – authentic Mexican street food, bursting with fresh, vibrant flavours, and a real spicy kick. Even food critics like me like Daddy Donkey. “This is great,” we say, looking a bit flustered, with sour cream running down our chins. “It’s authentic Mexican street food, bursting with fresh, vibrant flavours, and a real spicy kick.” If we were paying attention, we’d probably notice people looking at us funny, like

they’re thinking: “must you food critics intellectualise everything? This is just simple, tasty fast food – don’t analyse it, get stuck in.” We never notice, though – coming up with apposite adjectives is involving work. It seems like there’s a new burrito place opening every week at the moment – there’s three Benito’s Hats, two Mas Burritos, and three Chilangos (the ones at Bluewater and Meadowhall don’t count). Soon there won’t be room for new branches of Eat. We have rows at work about which is our favourite. Allan’s is Burrito Brothers on Clerkenwell Road. I think he’s a fool, but I’d never tell him. Nicole likes the Chilango on Chancery Lane best. She’s been there twice a week since it opened, even though it’s got so popular that they’ve started employing someone to stand by the door and tell people that the queue isn’t as long as it looks. The queue is as long as it looks, but the burritos are spot on. I got one the other day. “This is great,” I said, as a grain of rice fell into my keyboard. “Authentic Mexican street food, bursting with fresh, vibrant fla....” I trailed off. Everybody in the office was looking at me funny. I must have had sour cream on my chin again. ■

www.daddydonkey.co.ukwww.chilango.co.ukwww.masburritos.co.ukwww.benitos-hat.com

It’s got so popular that they’ve started employing someone to stand by the door and tell people that the queue isn’t as long as it looks

> flavour mitch tonks

62

With sustainable fishing top on the agenda, each month new flavour columnist and seafood specialist Mitch Tonks cooks up a storm with his seasonal fish of choice...

This is prime time for native lobsters – not to be missed. If you’re thinking of celebrations, summer parties, a treat of a meal from the ocean there are a few things that might come to mind – oysters, large turbot, wild prawns, Dover sole, diver-caught scallops, maybe caviar – but often lobster features in that list. Lobsters are pretty much always an expensive choice (avoid them at Christmas, prices are ridiculous and often they won’t be native anyway but Canadian). If you don’t mind a claw missing ask your fishmonger

for a ‘cripple’, it will be cheaper and taste the same as one with two claws!

Lobster is all about sweetness and texture so it is important not to overcook it as it will become tough and you will lose half of its experience. The claw, tail and brown meat all have different characteristics, the brown meat being rich and creamy, the tail meat firm and juicy and the claw is more smooth and sweet. The best way to enjoy lobster in my mind is to halve it, lay it flesh down on the barbecue for a couple of minutes then turn over and cover with garlic butter and continue on the barbecue for another couple of minutes only. You get the delicious sweetness and the taste of the sea from the lobster this way, so simple but really showcases why lobster is so sought after.

Mitch Tonks, who owns two restaurants in Devon and one in Bristol, has written four fish cookery books and launched the first ever Iphone app dedicated to seafood.

When he’s not making an appearance on Saturday Kitchen, Mitch loves writing about his greatest passion. His most recent book Fish covers buying, cooking and eating the best seafood, as well as how it’s caught. He is working on his fifth book due for publication in Spring 2012.

www.mitchtonks.co.uk

This month:

LOBSTER

63

> flavour mitch tonks

You will need – serves 21 lobster weighing about 750g1 red pepper1 green Pepper3 cloves garlic4 tomatoes, finely choppedPinch saffron1 Jar fish soup1 small dried birdseye chilliHandful finely chopped parsleyGlass white wineSplash of brandyOlive oil

MethodFirst blanch the lobster in boiling salted water for 5 minutes and then cool. In a food processor finely chop the peppers and

garlic. Remove the claws from the lobster and crack. Then split it in half and scrape out any dark meat inside and reserve. Chop into chunks. In a large pan add the olive oil and fry the chopped peppers and garlic gently for 5 minutes, add the lobster and cook for another 5 minutes, add the brandy and boil off the alcohol then add the wine and do the same, add the saffron, chilli and tomatoes and then add a cup of fish soup and 3 cups of water, add half the parsley, cover and cook gently for 10 minutes.

Now add the reserved brown meat from the lobster and with the lid off cook for a further 10 minutes, sprinkle over the remaining parsley and serve.

LOBSTER CALDERETTA

Recipe taken from FISH by Mitch Tonks published by Pavilion. Recipe photo by Ed Ovenden, whole lobster photo by Chris Terry. © Mitch Tonks Fishmonger, food writer, restaurateur www.rockfishgrill.co.uk www.mitchtonks.co.uk www.twitter.com/rockfishgrill

FL3_p64:Layout 1 13/07/2011 09:55

Redundancy came at the right time for journalists Simon and Katie Osborne. It enabled them to follow a foodie pipedream and, after a well-devised business plan, a bank loan, several courses and many sleepless nights later they opened up Poisson, a fishmonger’s in Northfields, Ealing.

A year-and-a-half up stream and Poisson is going swimmingly. While Katie looks after the paperwork and accounts, Simon sources the fish and runs the shop Tuesday through Saturday. “It has been hard work,” he says, “the sense of security you get from a monthly wage slip has gone, but so far my mid-life crisis career swap still provides a roof over our heads - I’ve never doubted the decision.”

Simon makes a daily 4.45am pilgrimage to Billingsgate Market, from where he picks out the finest and freshest produce, before returning to Northfields for a 9am opening. “Billingsgate is an exciting place. You are tired when you get there but wide-awake when you leave. The atmosphere is great and the choice of fish is remarkable.

“I buy small amounts of the best I can - day boat, line-caught if possible - with the intention of selling out in a day rather than having a surplus hanging around overnight or for a couple of days. More often than not I will take home what is not sold. It’s a rarity that anything with four legs is eaten in my house, the kids love fish and it really is the ultimate fast food!”

Simon is back doing what he likes best; being part of a community, being creative and interacting with the public. “I can set my watch by some of the regular customers and we are seeing new ones popping in all the time. It has been tough at times and I wouldn’t recommend taking something like this on unless you’re prepared to do all the groundwork and research, but this has given me a new lease of life and I love being a part of it.”

Poisson LtdUnit 3 Devonshire House, 201-211 Northfields Avenue, London W13 9QU0208 567 4507

www.poisson-ltd.co.uk

65

drops byflavour poisson

> flavour spare me the passion

66

Any CV that doesn’t contain the words ‘I am passionate about…’ is destined for the HR bin, whilst job adverts are apparently obliged to contain the criteria ‘must be passionate about…’ even when the job offered is stacking shelves or double entry bookkeeping. The impression given is that there are masses of people running around wild-eyed, rending their garments and crying aloud to the heavens at all times of day and night. Your own life seems rather dull compared to theirs, filled as they are with all this incredible passion.

Unfortunately experience tells us that people in the throes of passion are not always going to be good at what they are doing. Passion leads people into hasty and bad decisions, like marriage or other people’s bedrooms, makes them ignore common sense and in extreme cases commit violence. In fact in the United States civil courts, a crime of passion is referred to as "temporary insanity" and crime passionel was until quite recently a valid defence in France when accused of murder.

Chefs are not immune to this fashionable rubbish. I have lost count of the number of chefs who have told me, when interviewed, that they are ‘passionate about sourcing locally’, or ‘passionate about organic produce.’ These are all laudable sentiments, of course, but am I really expected to believe that chef goes postal when his tomatoes come from another county or his beef doesn’t have an organic sticker on it?

And of course in the online world it’s obligatory to say you are passionate about food if you want to be admitted to the gang. It goes hand in hand with taking pictures of every dish you’re served using a Canon Blogmatic Mk II and then Tweeting, instead of eating the food and talking normally to the people at the table with you.

Well sorry. I like my food as much as anyone else but I reserve my passion for relationships, which is surely where it belongs. The only passion I want near my table is the fruit.

I am quite passionate about this, as you perhaps can tell.

This month Nick Harman asks why it’s not enough to simply like doing something, to be keen on doing it or even to be in love with doing it...

spare me the passion

Am I really expected to believe that chef goes postal when his tomatoes come from another county or his beef doesn’t have an organic sticker on it?

Nick Harman is editor of www.foodepedia.co.uk and was shortlisted last year for The Guild of Food Writer’s Restaurant Reviewer of the Year.

teapigs’ teas are available at Harvey Nichols, John Lewis, Wholefoods and Planet Organic. You can also buy online at www.teapigs.co.uk

FL3_BC_Moretti:Layout 1 12/07/2011 17:00

flavour magazine london july 2011

Documents

director email

director of sales email

nick gregory email

sales account manager

holly aureliushaddock

competition entries

stated terms

permission of flavour