flavour_october/november 2011
DESCRIPTION
For people who love local food in Bristol, Bath & the South WestTRANSCRIPT
IT WAS A YES!Now find that perfect
wedding venue
WIN!An overnight stayfor two at the Royal Crescent
GOOD FOOD AWARDS Accolades bestowed on the best in Bath
INSIDEYour free 44-page festive food guide
South West | Issue 44 | 2011
www.flavourmagazine.com
flavourfor people who love local food
Editor: Nick Gregory Email: [email protected]
Art Director: Richard Cook Email: [email protected]
Advertising: Miranda Coller, Director of Sales Email: [email protected]
Helen Kembery, Account Manager Email: [email protected]
Photography: Jeni Meade, James Walker
Contributors: Martin Blunos, Siân Blunos, Tom Bowles, Pieter Swanepoel, Nick Harman, Clare Morris, Duncan Shine, Mitch Tonks, Ron Faulkner, Louis Labron-Johnson, Polly March, Holly Aurelius-Haddock
Flavour Magazine151-153 Wick Road, Brislington, Bristol BS4 4HHTel: 01179 779188 | Visit: www.flavourmagazine.com
For general enquiries:Peter FrancombEmail: [email protected]
For competition entries:Email: [email protected]
© Copyright 2011 flavourmagazine.com
All rights reserved. Material may not be reproduced without permission of flavour. While we take care to ensure that reports, reviews and features are accurate, flavourmagazine.com accepts no liability for reader dis-satisfaction arising from the content of this publication. The opinions expressed or advice given are the views of the individual authors, and do not necessarily represent the views or policies of flavourmagazine.com
flavour magazine provides effective communication through design. We specialise in brochures, corporate identity, advertising, direct mail, marketing and design for print. We have a reputation for clear, creative solutions to communication problems for a number of corporate, sports, financial, charity and leisure industry clients. We maintain the highest of standards, throughout each individual project and our client relationship. We pride ourselves on delivering distinctive designs and ideas that will get you noticed.
For more information, please contact Peter Francomb Tel: 01179 779188 Email: [email protected] Visit: www.flavourmagazine.com
Competition Terms & ConditionsIn addition to any specifically stated terms and conditions, the following applies to all competitions. All information forms part of the rules. All entrants are deemed to have accepted the rules and agree to be bound by them. The winner will be the first entry drawn at random from all the entries sent in by the closing date and will be notified by either post, email or telephone. The prizes are as stated; they are non-transferable and no cash alternative will be offered. All entrants must be at least 18 years old. Competitions are open to UK residents only. One entry per person. Proof of postage is not proof of entry. flavour accepts no responsibility for entries lost or damaged in the post. Entrants agree to take part in any publicity material relating to the competition. The name of the winner will be published in the next edition. The judge’s decision is final and no correspondence will be entered into. Prizes do not include unspecified extras (such as travel). All prizes are subject to availability. Please state if you do not wish to receive any further correspondence from flavour or competition organisers. You may be required to collect your prize.
Please recycle this product.
Welcome to longer nights, colder days and the onset of winter, but to counter that and on the plus side, the latest issue of flavour and food and drink at its best.
With the anticipation of all things festive just around the corner, it’s been an exciting few weeks here at flavour HQ as we begin to look forward to the time of year when we let our hair down (hair permitting) and savour all that comes with Christmas (wallet permitting).
Our Festive Food Guide lets you know all the great places to unwind and dine, while the Festive Gift Guide PAGE 19 should give you a few early ideas as to that elusive present. If you aren’t quite ready for carols, shopping or Santa just yet, check out Demuths’ Richard Buckley’s recipe on PAGE 45, find out about the hierarchy in the kitchen and who exactly does what on PAGE 15, or explore the wonders of Bibury Court with Polly March on PAGE 12.
Anyway, I’ll let you get on and please, please let us know of any great new places of interest you would like to see featured in future issues.
Well done!
Nick Gregory
welcome
14
10 In Season Tom Bowles and Pieter
Swanepoel cook up the best of the season’s produce
31 Bought, Borrowed & Stolen Recipes and knives from
travelling chef Allegra McEvedy
35 It was a yes! Find your perfect
wedding venue
56 WIN! An overnight stay for two at
The Royal Crescent Hotel
63 Bath Good Food awards Find out who took the honours
at this inaugural event
contents
Nick
31
4
> flavour news
COMPETITION WINNERCongratulations to Lynda Brown fromCalne, who wins a overnight stay fortwo at Cowley Manor in Gloucestershire
If you have any news or events that you would like to share with
us here at flavour then email [email protected] OFF THE TABLE!
My Kitchen Table is a unique collection ofrecipes by the UK’s favourite chefs, whohave come together to offer you their bestdishes, showcasing the style of cookingthey love most.
Building on the growing series of MyKitchen Table books, and popularwebsite, the iPhone app will launch inSeptember 2011. The new app is availablefor iPhone and iPod Touch users, andintroduces touch- free technology.
Developers TigerSpike have developedtechnology that takes full advantage ofthe iPhone 4’s front camera, allowingusers to simply wave their hand over thescreen to skip to the next page.
www.mykitchentable.co.uk
MAD HATTER’S TEA PARTY
‘Lick Me, I'm Delicious’ liquid nitrogen icecream creations and Bristol Cooks are joining forces to launch The Mad Hatter'sSupper Club.
They will be running two exclusive SupperClub nights on 12 and 13 November. Eachdinner will cater for 12 guests who willhopefully dress up and get into the theme of the 'Mad Hatter's Tea Party'.
The menu will include such dishes as rabbit served in an edible top hat alongside a Victoria Sponge Cake of the surprising variety. Dessert will be a liquid nitrogenice cream surprise.
Tickets will be available for a suggesteddonation of £40 and will soon be bookablethrough the website.
www.madhatterssupperclub.blogspot.com
SOUTH WESTTHE BEST
The new edition of theLonely Planet guide to ourregion puts Cornwall andthe South West at theforefront of British food.It reveals the region hasovertaken the rest of theUK with its innovativecooking, organic, locallysourced and ethicallyproduced food,challenging London forthe culinary throne.
Author for the LonelyPlanet, Oliver Berry, said"The South West is everyfoodie's dream; just-caught crab accompaniedwith local wine inspectacular settings -what could be better?”
www.lonelyplanet.com
this month
CURD IT BE?
The cream of British artisan cheesemakers will be heading to Bath for theFine Cheese Co. Festival at MilsomPlace on Saturday 29th October 2011.Cheese aficionados are treated totasters and talks by 20 of Britain’sfinest artisan cheese makers.
Milsom Place has gained a reputationfor running high quality food events,attracting headline acts includingtraditional Cheddar by Keen’s andWestcombe, both of whom still makeunpasteurised Cheddar bound in cloth.The Fine Cheese Co. Festival at MilsomPlace in Bath runs from 10.00am until 5.00pm.
www.milsomplace.co.uk
DINNER WITH GOSS THE BOSS
Pete Goss is a sailor, adventurer and former Royal Marine. He has competedin seven transatlantic and two round-the-world races. The most recognizedof these was the 1996/7 Vendee Globe non-stop single-handed round-the-world yacht race. This race turned Pete into a national hero for the dramaticrescue of fellow competitor Raphael Dinelli in hurricane-force winds. Petewas awarded the MBE by the Queen and the Legion d’Honneur by the FrenchPresident. Mon Dieu!
On Monday November 7, you can enjoy a superb dinner prepared by Michelinstar Chef Hywel Jones in The Park, whilst being inspired and enthralled byPete’s adventures and incredible action photography.
For reservations call: 01225 742777
BRIE-LLIANT!
Local fine food retailer The Deli inFairford has gained second place in the British Cheese Awards Best NewRetailer category for the second year in a row. Catherine Elliott of The Deli in Fairford said, "We are delighted. It really goes to show that small localindependent shops can now competewith the major chains if they offer greatfood and service at a reasonable price.”
www.thedeliinfairford.co.uk
INDULGEYOURSELF
A must-see this month in beautiful Bath isIndulgence Café, that stocks delicioushomemade cakes andpastries, as well as agreat range of packagedproducts – perfect forgifts! To hear more about Indulgence Caféturn to page 26, where it features in our festive gift guide.
01225 316265
5
6
> flavour news
FLINTY STINT IN BRISTOL
Legendary winemaker SergioGermano, of Ettore Germano wine estate, is visiting Bristol onNovember 15 on behalf of FlintyRed wines.
The luminous and dynamic SergioGermano is a very talented youngwinemaker who confidently runsthis important estate, which yearafter year scales new peaks ofquality and reliability.
At the vanguard of modern winemaking, the Ettore Germanoestate is gaining worldwideacclaim. It will be a prestigiousevent for Flinty Red to have Sergiothere on the night to introduce hisexceptional range of wines.
www.flintyred.co.uk
VICTORIAVICTORIOUS
The Victoria Park pub in Bristol wasrecently awarded ‘Best Newcomers’ for the South West region at the 2011 Great British Pub awards. This is a fantastic and well-deserved result forthem, and hopefully their second year will continue in a similar fashion.
www.thevictoriapark.co.uk
RECTORY WINS TOP PRIZE
Those at the Rectory Hotel in Crudwellwere no doubt jumping and whooping with joy last week when a letter stampedfrom the Good Pub Guide landed on theirdoorstep bringing news of a most prestigiousaccolade: They have beenawarded National Pub of The Year for 2012!
A big congratulations tothem, and may this massive award takethem as far as they want to go.
www.therectoryhotel.com
FLAVRBOX
Launching this Autumn,Flavrbox is a Bristol-basedstart-up that promises to makeit easy for people to discoverand buy unique, interestingproducts made by some of thefinest independent food anddrink producers around.
The team clearly like surprisesand so are being deliberatelymysterious about what'scoming, but guarantee that ifyou love good food, you're infor a very tasty treat.
In the run-up to the launch,they're currently offering anexclusive 10% discount on allpurchases for an entire year, toearly birds who sign up to theirnewsletter. Check out thewebsite to save your spot!
www.flavrbox.com
BEST FOODIEPUB INBRITAIN
After having thejudges down for afew visits, The OldInn, Holton won 'The Best Food Pubin the UK' categoryfor The MorningAdvertiser’s BestPub Awards.
The team enjoyed a trip to the Park LaneHilton where Rory Bremner hosted theawards. Well done them!
www.theoldinnrestaurant.co.uk
IT’S SAUSAGEFEST TIME...
Banger lovers rejoice: NationalSausage Week is nearly upon us. If you were not already aware, this is happening between Monday 31October, and Friday 4 November.
The Sausage Fest - a South-West basedpremier sausage company - have a lotplanned for this week, including newand exciting sausages, and greatdeals for their customers.
They have also just been featuredin Jamie Oliver's brand new bookJamie's Great Britain so thiscoincides nicely with sausageweek as there are greatrecipes inside for sausages!
www.thesausagefest.co.uk
CURRY-TASTIC
The internationally-renowned Rajpoot ofBath has won the prestigious 'Asian CurryAwards 2011' as the Best Indian Restaurantin the South-West at a glittering gala dinnerheld at the Royal Lancaster Hotel, London.The event was presented by Sky Newsbroadcaster and presenter Lukwesa Burakand attended by dignitaries, ministers,Lords, MPs, community and mediapersonalities. Ahmed Chowdhury, owner of Rajpoot, said: “This is yet anotherendorsement of Rajpoot which wasestablished 31 years ago. Credit goes to my staff and our customers.”
www.rajpoot.com / 01225 466833
HELP THE HOMELESSTHIS WINTER
StreetSmart is a national campaignthat raises funds for the homelessthrough restaurants adding anoptional £1 onto each table's billduring November and December.Many Bristol-based restaurantshave signed up, including Bell'sDiner, Berwick Lodge, CaféMaitreya, Clifton Kitchen,Delmonico, Fisher's and Moreish.
So there is something positive thatwe can do for those less fortunatethan ourselves this winter - we caneat in a StreetSmart restaurant and agree that £1 is added to ourrestaurant bill. People sleeping out need an alternative and we can help to provide it.
www.streetsmart.org.uk
GOURMET GUS AT THE TASTING ROOM
On 14th November 2011, The Tasting Room in Bath will present a gourmet dinnercreated by Michelin starredChef Gus Ashenford. Join themfor a seven-course meal withaccompanying wines.
Gus has held his Michelin starfor 15 years and currently ownsFive North Street Restaurant inWinchcombe. He is also proudto be co-owner of The TastingRoom. This is sure to be anexceptional evening, costingjust £70 per person.
6 Green StreetBath BA1 2JY
01225 483070www.tastingroom.co.uk
On Thursday, November 3, Brasserie Blancwill be holding a local produce showcase nightin the heart of the Cabot Circus development.From 5.30pm onwards (last seating 10pm) ‘thea la carte’ and ‘dine with wine’ menus will beavailable as normal, but the focus will be onthe Specials Menu showcasing local andseasonal produce.
Using Ruby & White Butchers and Burtons Go Banana's, Brasserie Blanc's chefs will beserving-up some traditional French, local andseasonal dishes and the pricing will be withinthe general range of the a la carte dishes.
www.brasserieblanc.com
Now Open in Bristol, state of the artbuilt in appliance showcase1st of its kind in the UK!
Fun Creative Cooking ~ The Perfect Recipe!Don your apron, roll up your sleeves and get stuck into creative fun cooking at the new
‘102 Cookery School’, we have over 20 courses to choose from and are due to open in December.This will also give you the opportunity to purchase vouchers for the perfect Christmas present.
The school is nestled in the roof of the old chapel on Gloucester Road, Bristol.
Comingsoon!
FREE PARKING
To celebrate the opening of their new cookery school, Nailsea Electrical are offering a lucky couple the chance to win two gift vouchers for cooking lessons, worth £95 each, in addition to a very stylish wine cooler.
Write in to [email protected] quoting ‘flavour102’ for your chance to win these fantastic prizes.
WIN, WIN, WIN!
9
> flavour fab foodie reads
For bookworms who love nothing more than cooking up a feast for family and friends, our
monthly selection of new releases is enough to keep anyone entertained!
HAWKSMOOR AT HOMEFIONA BECKETT & RICHARD TURNERPreface, £25
The Hawksmoor restaurants in Spitalfields and Seven Dials have been a sensation. Their credo is simple: the best ingredients – dictionary-thick steaks from Longham cattle dry-aged for at least 35 days, simply cooked on a real charcoal grill. Hawksmoor At Home is a practical cookbook which shows you how to buy and cook great steak and seafood and indeed much else (including how to cook both the ‘best burger in Britain’, and the ‘best roast beef in Britain’); how to mix terrific cocktails and choose wine to accompany your meal. Above all, Hawksmoor At Home entertains and informs in the inimitable ‘Hawksmoor’ way.
SPICESSOPHIE GRIGSONQuadrille, £20
Sophie Grigson provides a captivating yet practical guide to the exciting wealth of spices that we all have access to. They are grouped into chapters of specific tastes, from Bitter and Sour (turmeric and sumac), to Aromatic (cumin and juniper); and each spice has its own dedicated entry, complete with recipes that explore and enhance its unique aroma and flavour. Packed with intriguing tales and enticing recipes, Spices ensures you’ll look at spices as fascinating pieces of our culinary history as well as
JAMIE’S GREAT BRITAINJAMIE OLIVERMichael Joseph/Penguin, £30
Jamie’s Great Britain contains over 100 new recipes from around the country that demonstrate, in Jamie’s view, the very best of British cooking. Some are indisputable classics; some are his twists on classic British recipes and others he has created from the great bounty of British produce. Jamie has a real knack of tapping into the zeitgeist. Combined with Jamie’s passion for his subject and his track record of creating inspiring and accessible recipes, this cookbook aims to show there has never been a better time to celebrate British food. Jamie’s Great Britain will tie into a six-part Channel 4 TV series of the same name to be broadcast this autumn.
ITALIAN HOME BAKINGGINO D’ACAMPO Kyle Books, £18.99
One of the UK’s best-loved Italian chefs, Gino D’Acampo is delighting his readers this autumn with a fifth book which dives into the world of Italian baking at home. With four best-selling titles to be proud of Gino felt ready to write about the ultimate in comfort foods: Italian breads, cakes, biscotti, pasta, party food and of course, pizza. Some of these recipes also draw direct inspiration from his home town of Naples, including Pane Rustico and Pizza Volante – a round pizza ‘sandwich’ stuffed with spinach, ricotta and mozzarella.
fab foodie reads
PICK OF THE MONTH!
right At their best
10
> flavour in season
parsnipsParsnips are a sweet-flavoured root veg that can’t be beaten this time of year.Historically, parsnips were used to sweetendishes where sugar was not widely availableand so were used a great deal more incooking. When roasted, parsnips can bedeliciously sweet and a great complementto any Sunday roast. A little tip is to pickparsnips that have already faced a frost asthis adds to their sweetness. Try to pickfirm, dry parsnips that are not too big as the bigger they are the more woody the core tends to be. They can be stored in a fridge for 2-3 weeks provided they arecovered. A parsnip that is no longer at its best will tend to look withered andwrinkled and turns slightly soft.
pumpkinPumpkins are often mistreatedwhen they burst into seasonand are carved up for aHalloween decoration. This is a waste of what is an amazingingredient at this time of year,whether roasted or fried, madeinto soups or pies. Pumpkinswork really well with heavierherbs and spices such as thymeor ginger to work with theirsweetness. Try roasting theseeds with salt and chilli too.Pick pumpkins that are weightyand with unblemished skin. If kept in a cool dark place theywill keep for several weeks.
ROASTED PUMPKIN ANDCOCONUT VELOUTÉ
Transfer 1kg of peeled and choppedpumpkin to a roasting tray. Drizzlewith olive oil, salt, freshly crackedpepper, 4 cloves crushed garlic, 1 tbsp cumin seed and pinch of currypowder. Roast in a pre-heated ovenat 200°C until soft and slightlycharred. In a medium pan sweatdown 3 shallots, a stick of celery and1tsp coriander seeds. Add 500mllight chicken stock and reduce by athird. Add the roasted pumpkin,200ml coconut milk and bring to theboil. Blend until smooth and adjustseasoning. Serve with a swirl ofcoconut milk, chopped coriander and toasted pumpkin seeds.
We all know that eating with the seasons makes for healthierbodies and tastier dishes. Each month Tom Bowles from HartleyFarm and Pieter Swanepoel from Cavendish Restaurant team up tobring you all you need to know about the best produce of the month.
now
> flavour in season
QUICK APPLE CRUMBLE
Peel and core three GrannySmith, two Braeburn andthree English Cox apples andcut into equal size chunks(using various apples givesyou better texture and depthof flavour). In a large potbring to the boil 100g sugar, 1 vanilla pod, juice and zest of a lemon, 75g unsaltedbutter and 50ml water. Oncea light caramel has formed,add the diced apples and cook with the lid on until theapples have softened andtransfer to an oven-proofdish. In a mixing bowl, crumbtogether 200g digestivebiscuits, 100g toasted nibbedalmonds, 50g toasted oats,100ml honey and 75mlmelted butter. Sprinkletopping over the apples andbake in a pre-heated oven at200°C for 15 min until golden.
SPICED PARSNIP CROQUETTES
Peel and chop 1kg parsnips and transfer to aroasting pan. Add 100g diced unsalted butter,75ml olive oil, 1 tsp chilli flakes, 1 tsp gratednutmeg, 2 tbsp demerara sugar and salt andpepper. Roast in preheated oven at 200°C for15 minutes until soft and allow to cool. Peeland chop 400g potatoes and boil in saltedwater until soft. Strain the liquid and allow to cool. Transfer the parsnips and potato to amixing bowl. Add 3 egg yolks, 150g gratedGruyère cheese, 2 tbsp chopped spring onionand mix thoroughly. Place the mixture in apiping bag and pipe finger-size pieces ontogreaseproof paper. Refrigerate to firm up.Roll the fingers in flour, egg and seasonedbreadcrums. Deep fry at 180°C until goldenor bake in the oven.
appleAlthough available fromearly autumn, apples are one of the few homegrown fruits still to be enjoyed at this time of year. More hardyeating apples such as theclassic Bramley can bestored well and keep for months to supply youthroughout the colder,darker months. Theymake a wonderfulaccompaniment to yourroast pork or braised with warming spices and served up with redcabbage. Homegrownapples will store formonths if unblemishedand wrapped innewspaper and stored in a wooden box. Thegeneral rule of thumb is the later the appleripens, the longer it will last.
Hartley Farm Shop and Café is located just outside of Bath, selling a fresh and colourful selection of local, seasonalproduce. www.hartley-farm.co.uk
With two AA rosettes. The Cavendish Restaurant and Bar is a hidden gem in the heart of Bath serving the best of modernBritish cuisine. www.cavendishrestaurant.co.uk
12
Driving across country towards Bibury, past inviting pubs and over thebubbling River Coln, Polly March felt like she was entering the veryheart of England and into ‘the most beautiful village in the Cotswolds’.
bibury court
As our we swept round into the stunninggrounds of Bibury Court, I had an odd senseof homecoming, because, although theJacobean mansion is breathtakingly grandand imposing, every leaded window seemsto twinkle as if in welcome.
Bibury offers 18 rooms of varying luxury and standard. We were in Barebone’s, awonderfully large ‘grand’ room overlookingthe vast front lawn with a bed large enoughfor a family of four and a huge bathtub onecould happily get lost in for several hours.
Before dinner we enjoyed some drinks in thepanelled drawing room, which again,managed to feel homely, despite itsmagnificence. The bar offers an extensivewine list, and a fantastic array of cocktailsand shorts.
We chose to sample the hotel’s fine diningmenu in The Oak Room, an intimate venuewhich has been recently revamped. Biburyrecently appointed a new head chef, NigelGodwin, who has been instrumental inchanging the dining offer, so that guests cannow choose from the adventurous menu ofthe Oak Room, or the more classic menu of The Brasserie. Either way, you are spoiled for choice, as every dish has such amouthwatering description on the menu.
After much deliberation, I went for the slowcooked Bibury duck egg, chicken oysters,foie gras, celeriac and parsley (£8.95). Theegg was huge and exploded a wonderfullythick yolk all over the plate which I greedilymopped up with the delightful home-bakedrolls. (The hotel is soon to open its ownbakery, and these were a great advert forthings to come.) The chicken oysters werebreaded, juicy little nuggets, plucked frombetween the chicken thighs and the rib cage.
The whole dish came served on somecreamy celeriac which had the optimumbalancing effect on the varying textures.
My husband plumped for the Loch Duartsalmon ‘mi cuit’, avocado, foie gras, walnutsoil and apple (£11.95). The avocado wasadded to the salmon by hand via a whippedcream canister, which gave it a lovelyconsistency. And although one wouldn’toften think of salmon and apple in the same dish, there was a curious genius to the blend.
For the main course I went for the Adlestroppartridge with quinoa, butternut squash andcocoa (£25.95). The partridge was divinelycooked and perfectly complemented firstlyby the crunchy and beautifully cookedquinoa grain and then by the wine we wererecommended by our knowledgable Frenchwaiter - a Château Haut-Bages AverousPauillac 2001 (£12 per glass), with a lovelyfull-bodied blackcurranty flavour.
My husband once more opted for fish,choosing the John Dory and scallops, on a ‘bolognese of squid’, with local chorizo(£24.95). It was beautifully presented and the scallops were perfectly done with thechunks of soft, moist fish and the delicateflavours wonderfully lifted by the richness of the bolognese.
I have to say the desserts were out of thisworld and there is such an exciting range tochoose from, so be prepared to change yourmind several times. I was intrigued by thesound of a Snickers brûlée with peanutbutter parfait and a cherry jam sandwich(£10.95). And I was not to be disappointed.What arrived was a beautifully presenteddish with a perfect little brûlée with nuttychunks that outdid any shop-bought
Snickers I’ve ever eaten. The peanut butterparfait was rich yet smooth with a dollop ofraspberry sorbet on top. And the cherry jamsandwich was in fact a layered, homemadesort of Snickers bar, with chocolate, chewyand nutty layers, the jam signified withluscious blobs dotted around the plate.
My husband went for the coffee crème,chocolate, granola and mascarpone sorbet(£8.95), with a delectable glass of dessertwine to counteract any bitterness from thecoffee. The dessert was an utter triumph,with the added delight of hidden poppingcandy in the sorbet as well as a beautifullytextured coffee crème. We finished off thisgastronomic excess with homemade lemonmacaroons and coffee (£4.95), back in thedrawing room and then it was to bed acrossthe gleaming flagstones and along thewinding corridors.
Driving away the next day, I felt a huge senseof regret at rejoining the real world, proof if any more was needed, of a wonderfulevening spent, where Bibury Court’s initialsense of welcome was echoed in the quiet, non-invasive hospitality of the staffthroughout our stay.
Bibury Court HotelBiburyCirencesterGloucestershireGL7 5NT01285 740337
www.biburycourt.co.uk
> flavour bibury court
13
I have to say the desserts were out of this world and there is such an exciting range to choose from, so be prepared to change
your mind several times
The Old Inn Restaurant in Holton is a beautifulrestaurant and bar just
outside Wincanton. Full ofcharacter, this 400-year-oldcoaching inn with log fire andflagstone floors has beenrestored and brought back tolife, while still maintaining itsoriginal charm.
Young head chef BenAbercrombie, 18, has taken upthe lead kitchen role at The OldInn and is cooking up a storm,where his passion andenthusiasm ensure his food isexquisite and unforgettable.Here he cooks us up one of hisfabulous recipes. Enjoy…
1 Take 1 confit leg of guinea fowl, season welland cover with duck fat.
2 Cook on a gentle heat for an hour. For theguinea fowl breast grill over the fire for alovely smoky flavour, but pan frying andcrisping up in the oven work just fine.
3 Season breast and cook off in a hot fryingpan with a splash of vegetable oil, skin sidedown. After a few minutes place the breast in the oven at about 190°C and cook for 10 minutes. Once cooked remove from theoven and leave to rest. While resting use thesame pan with all the juices and cook a
handful of bacon lardons and red currants.Then de-glaze with stock to provide a mouth-watering sauce to accompany the dish.
4 Stew down one red sliced cabbage and asliced onion in a deep pan over a high heat with a knob of butter and a good splash ofvegetable oil until softened, add 100g sultanasand stir, add 150ml balsamic vinegar and400ml of red wine and reduce slightly, turningthe heat down to a gentle temperature thenseason with salt and pepper. After about 10 minutes add 150g of soft brown sugarand stir in, then cook for another 10 minuteswith a lid
The
OLD INN
Ben Abercrombie
The Old Inn Restaurant, Holton, Nr Wincanton BA9 8AR • 01963 32002 • www.theoldinnrestaurant.co.uk
CONFIT GUINEA FOWL LEG WITH BREAST COOKED OVER THE FIRE, BRAISED RED CABBAGE WITH SMOKED BACON AND RED CURRANT JUS.
15
Parlez-vouz Français? Nope, meneither, but to get to grips withthe front and back of house in a
restaurant you’ll need to brush up onthose skills pretty quickly, and thatmeans knowing more than just‘Garçon!!’ when you’re ready for the bill.
The ‘brigade de cuisine’ is the system of hierarchy found in restaurants, aconcept developed by legendary Frenchchef and restaurateur Georges AugusteEscoffier, who, among many otherachievements, published Le GuideCulinaire, which is still used as a majorreference work, both in the form of acookbook and a textbook on cooking.Escoffier died on 12 February 1935, butlate in the 19th century, in London'sSavoy Hotel, he developed the modernbrigade system from the structure helearned while serving in the FrenchArmy, where he organised the kitcheninto a hierarchy of authority,responsibility and function.
Like an army, the restaurant has a strictstructure with a chain of command –executive chef or chef de cuisine, souschefs and then chefs de partieresponsible for different departments,and then demi-chefs, cooks andcommis below them. Of course, not allrestaurants have the space, budget
or desire to link in all these ranks andfiles, but if you hear the terms ‘pâtissier‘or ‘ploungeur’ from now on, at leastyou’ll know what they mean!
Chef de Cuisine: The head chef or executive chef, responsible for theoverall management of the kitchen,supervising staff, creating the menus,buying the produce and training-upapprentices. He or she is the top dog or bitch!
Sous Chef (de cuisine): Second incommand, the sous chef takes overwhen the chef de cuisine is unavailable.Watch out for a mutiny, however, as the sous chef often has designs abovehis station.
Chef de partie: This is the senior chefresponsible for managing a givenstation in the kitcken and overseeing the cuisiniers, the cooks delegated topreparing certain dishes. Those thatwork in a lesser station are commonlyreferred to as the demi-chefs. Theyaren’t seen as very important!
Commis Chef: Works under a chef de partie to learn the station'sresponsibilities and operation. This may be a chef who has recentlycompleted culinary training or is still undergoing training.
Pâtissier: Or a pastry chef, is a member of the classic brigade de cuisine in aprofessional kitchen and is the station chef of the pastry department, skilled in the making of pastries, desserts, breads and other baked goods.
Plongeur: Not an esteemed positionthis one as it involves washing thedishes, often under the guidance of theMarmiton, the pot and pan washer. The plongeur may occasionally, and onlyif he’s been really good, be entrustedwith basic preparatory duties.
Other positions of note are thepoissonnier (fish man), the confiseur(prepares the petit fours and smallcandies) and the garçon de cuisine (the kitchen boy), who helps out all the others as and when required.
Obviously this structure is not employedin all restaurants and hotels, but it isfound in many. Escoffier’s hierarchicalstructure has stood the test of time and you certainly won’t find many in theknow knocking it. And next time youhear noise from the kitchen, it may notnecessarily be the chef de cuisinebellowing at the commis, it could be the marmiton wanting to know what the plongeur is up to.
Flavour editor Nick Gregory goes behindthe scenes to find out who does what in thekitchen according to long-held standards…
lost in translation?
> flavour xxxxxxx
16 16
> flavour teen chef
Teen ChefJames Underdown, flavour’s 14-year-old budding chef, has been back in the kitchen again this month to serve-up another one of his mouthwatering treats.
Well, since my last installment I’ve had a very foodie month. Firstly, I had one of the best meals I’ve ever had at Woods Restaurant, Bath, and I’ve also started my GCSE catering course.
This month’s recipe is one of my all-time favourite deserts - chocolate mousse. It is so simple to make but it tastes amazing! I only use milk chocolate because I find dark too bitter and it just doesn’t taste as graeat, but play around to find what you like best. Also you can add more or less brandy (I do ask my parents don’t worry!), I like the way it compliments the chocolate, but too much overrides the taste (well that’s my opinion).
Chocolate MousseIngredients
170g Milk chocolate 4 Egg whitesTeaspoon and a bit of BrandyCinnamon and nutmeg
Method
1 Firstly melt the chocolate over boiling water. In another bowl, whisk up the egg whites until they form soft peaks.
2 Once the eggs are whisked you can now add the brandy and a small amount cinnamon and nutmeg and quickly whisk a tad more.
3 Now pour the melted chocolate and, with a metal spoon, fold in so it’s a chocolaty colour and no white specs left in.
Leave in the fridge for a few hours (overnight is best).
Introducing
The beautiful Kings Arms in Litton isnestled at the foot of the Mendip Hills and the entrance to the wonderful
Chew Valley and it reflects both sophisticatedand simple food choices, sourced locally andorganically and many bought directly from thefarmers themselves.
Just sit back in either the historic surroundingsof the 591-year-old 14th century pub or move tothe contemporary surroundings of the Littondining restaurant and just soak up the flavoursand get lost in the tantalising array of choices.
Taste real Cheddar cheese 12-to-14 months-oldand enjoy the beef and lamb born and bred onthe Mendips – all fresh, zesty and carefullyprepared and a delight to enjoy.
The Kings Arms complements all their food with great Wines and Real Ales along with theirhigh levels of service. When the sun shines intothe beautiful gardens that cascade gently downto the gurgling and splashing River Chew,everything becomes right with the world.
This is Somerset at its very best and for all toenjoy. The preparation of the food is as close to perfect as you can imagine, along with adistinctly fresh taste that brings customers back time and again.
Kings Arms Radstock, Litton, Somerset BA3 4PW • Telephone 01761 241301 • www.kingsarmslitton.co.uk
THE STARTERS• Cup of Winter Broth (v)• Cup of Mushroom soup (v)• House Special baked Soup of the Seas (£3 extra)• Homemade chicken liver pate, grilled bread and gherkins• Kings Scallops with a light leek and mushroom sauce (£5 extra)• Smoked salmon, cucumber and avocado crème fraîche• Slow roasted Golden and red beetroots, feta cheese and Clementine salad (v)
THE MAIN COURSES• Roast turkey stuffed with chestnuts and mushrooms• Supreme of duck breast with an orange and port reduction• Slow roast shoulder of Old Spot pork, crackling and apple sauce• Fillet of sea bass in brick pastry on a bed of Julienne vegetables served with lightfish sauce
• Roast Somerset beef, gravy & fresh horseradish sauce• Wild mushroom tagliatelle, cream of pea and asparagus and shavings of Parmesan (v)
• Kings Arms nut roast (v)(All Mains are accompanied with Herb roast potatoes, honey roast parsnips & carrots)
THE DESSERTS• Traditional Christmas pudding and brandy butter sauce/custard• Kings Arms banana & cinnamon crepe with a caramel sauce• Somerset apple Charlotte & vanilla custard sauce• Local 14 month mature cheddar, Stilton cheese and Somerset Brie• Litton Surprise, a bit of everything! (extra £3)
3 courses £25 per person2 courses £20 per person
House Mulled wine on arrival
Christmas Party Menu
This is Somerset at its very best and for all to enjoy.
The preparation of the food is as close to perfect as you
can imagine, along with a distinctly fresh taste that brings
customers back time and again.
ALL SERVED IN OUR UNIQUE‘BRING MOREFOOD’ STYLE
KINGS ARMS
fenugreek
the herb doctorTHIS
MONTH
18
Fenugreek seeds are bothhypoglycaemic and hypocholester-olaemic, meaning they can help in
regulating blood sugar and in loweringcholesterol levels in the blood, both of whichare highly desirable, particularly if you arefond of sugary foods and grains in general.
There is a fibre in the seeds calledgalactomannan, which is thought to be the main component responsible for thesepotential health benefits. After eating acarbohydrate-rich meal blood sugar levelsincrease quite quickly, prompting a releaseof insulin to bring the levels back down. It isquite common for people to have chronicallyelevated levels of insulin in the bloodstreambecause our diets are so carb heavy, andthis can lead to a rebound response, whereblood sugar levels suddenly drop becausethere is too much insulin floating around inthe system. This is one of the main reasonswhy people often feel tired 10 or 20 minutesafter eating carbs, such as having a bakedpotato at lunchtime.
Fenugreek can help towards putting this right. A cup of fenugreek teaimmediately after a carb-rich meal can help to reduce the rapid rise in blood sugarlevels, without stimulating an increase ininsulin production. Just put a couple ofteaspoons of fenugreek seeds in a pestleand mortar, give them a bit of a bash and then make a tea with them in a small pot, infusing for 10 minutes. Bashing them up a bit first will help toliberate more of the galactomannan.
The taste is pretty strange to start with and you may need to play around with thequantities to find a level that suits you, astoo much can bring out a bitter aftertaste.Like a lot of these things, once you’ve tried it a few times you get used to it and it actually starts to taste quite nice. Fenugreek is a member of the pea family, and what you’re looking for is a kind of delicate sweetness underneath the more immediate taste sensation.
A quick note about sugar
Everyone knows that sugar isn’t very goodfor us, and all carbohydrates are basicallymade of sugars. Carbohydrates includeanything made from grains – includingpasta, pizza, bread and biscuits – as well as starchy root vegetables and potatoes.Virtually all foods that have become part of the human diet since the advent ofagriculture are rich in carbohydrates.
Sugar seems to be addictive, and when you walk through the average modernsupermarket, it seems like 75 per cent ofwhat is on offer is really just a vehicle fordelivering sugar. It’s quite an interestingexperiment to go for a few weeks withoutsugars in your diet to see what happens,although it’s not exactly easy to do this,believe me!
I’ve set up a website where you can find outa bit more about how to do it, and there’salso some more info and references aboutfenugreek. www.seriouslystoneage.com
Max Drake is a practisingmedical herbalist at theUrban Fringe Dispensary,where he also runs coursesand workshops teaching howto use herbs safely and effectively, treat common ailments and stay healthy.
For more information and references visit: www.urbanfringe.org
flavour
Inspired gift ideas for Christmas
the
Gift Guide
~ See inside for more stunning Devon Driftwood ~
For those who like to be a little different, ParkFurnishers is offering a variety of quirky andcolourful, yet exceptionally stylish kitchenware
collections. These are all great gifts for culinaryenthusiasts with one eye on chic.
The Eclipse range of Duiske Kilkenny glasswarereflects a modern lifestyle with its elegant, plaindesign and its exciting colours. Every piece isdesigned for casual, but stylish dining and thecollection would make an ideal Christmas gift.
For those who like to be at the cutting-edge of style,Taylor’s Eye Witness six-piece coloured knife setprovides both aesthetic pleasure and practicality. It consists of a cook's knife, bread knife, carving knife,utility knife, all-purpose knife and a paring knife allcontained within a revolving acrylic knife block.
You can further brighten up a kitchen with Judge CoolCasseroles. This range of 22cm casserole dishes infun and funky colours are as hard wearing as they arestriking. Judge Cool make them in a variety of huesincluding red, Wedgewood blue and sea green.
Take this season’s look outside the kitchen withBodum’s range of portable travel mugs. Made fromstainless steel and colourful plastic, these beautiesare also available in a whole spectrum of colours.
Park Furnishers are in
the know when it comes
to trendy yet practical
goods, and these amazing
gifts are more than simply
stocking fillers.
Willway Street, Bedminster, Bristol BS3 4AZ • www.parkfurnishers.co.uk • Telephone 0117 944 9012
26 Middle Street, Brixham Devon TQ5 8ER • www.devondriftwooddesigns.com • Telephone 01803 882 850
DeVOn DrifTWOODExtraordinary and unique
gifts that are made with
natures finest driftwood.
Karen Miller is the owner ofDevon Driftwood Designs, a wonderful store that sells
amazing sculptures and furniturefashioned entirely out of driftwood.
Karen started off 11 years agomaking driftwood trees out of woodthat she found on the beach in herlocal town of Brixham, Devon. Nowpeople all over the world send herdriftwood, and she fashions it intotables, mirrors, shells, gifts anddecorations among other things.Karen also sells online.
Visit her website to see all of her beautiful designs...
READER
OFFER
YOUR ORDER15% OFF
QUOTE FLAVOUR11
WHEN ORDERING
par
k fu
rn
ishe
rs
A family-owned business, co-run by three brothersRayner, Lakeland’s humble beginnings startedin 1963, when Alan Rayner, father of the
afore-mentioned brothers, started selling polythenebags to poultry farmers. Since then, the business has flourished and expanded, mainly to kitchenware, yet maintained the Lakeland ethos of ‘customerservice’ throughout.
Lakeland have some fantastic gift ideas this Christmas.Their creative kitchenware and other products are clearly designed to make life easier and moreenjoyable, whether you're cooking, entertaining, doingthe housework or searching for the perfect present.From fun stocking fillers such as their festive siliconemould, which is perfect for making quirky gingerbreadmen and chocolates, to hampers containing a wealthof delicious, well-chosen products, Lakeland havesomething for everyone.
For those looking to make their home-cookedChristmas dinner as delicious as possible, Lakelandhave a whole range of products, including gorgeousglazed terracotta roasters, roast lifting forks, anddeluxe basting sets.
The products all combine practicality and ease of usewith lovely aesthetic qualities, making Lakeland amust on your festive shopping itinerary. In the SouthWest, Lakeland has stores in Bath, Exeter, Tauntonand Truro, so you’re never too far from those must-buys. Alternatively, browse the website for allproducts, including many on special offer this season.
Orderline 01539 488100 • www.lakeland.co.uk
lakelanDLakeland have some fantastic gift ideas this Christmas.
Their creative kitchenware and other products are clearly
designed to make life easier and more enjoyable
Blueberry Hill producesa range of handmadefestive treats.
The mini range worksperfectly as stocking fillers or can be combined alongsideBlueberry Hill’s moretraditional items to create a gorgeous hamper. Fromstars in a jar through to richtraditional Christmas cakes,their range is designed to offer a selection ofcomplementary flavoursalongside some greatcheeses and wines. Their cakes can also bepersonalised to make yourChristmas gifts even morespecial. Orders on 2011 gifts will close on Friday,December 16.
BlueBerry hillFrom stars in a jar through to rich traditional Christmas cakes,
their range is designed to offer a selection of complementary
flavours alongside some great cheeses and wines.
Blueberry Hill • Ella Fletcher & Rachel Reynolds 07970 983126 / 07815 852117 • www.blueberryhillcakes.co.uk
Follow Blueberry Hill on Twitter: @BHCakes • Like us on Facebook: Blueberry Hill Cakes
Lyme Bay Winery are first and foremost great innovators, taking
the processes of winemaking and adapting them in
a quintessentially English way.
If you’re hunting for a delicious treat tocurl up with as the
evenings draw in, look no further than the hugeselection of Lyme BayWinery drinks, includingcountry wines, liqueursand ciders. The difficultyis making a choice –should you try the doubleaward-winning Gingerwine, the mellow Sloewine or the wonderfully fruity Blackberry?
For that after dinner festive tipple, Lyme BayWinery have created some beautifully packagedliqueurs which make versatile presents for alloccasions – if you can bear to give them away.Try the award-winning Whisky Ginger – smoothand warming, reminiscent of a whisky mac – or a Blueberry Liqueur, a new take on an oldfavourite.
For those who are feeling the cold pinch ofwinter, warm the cockles of your heart withLyme Bay’s comforting mulled range; adelicious selection of wines finely spiced withorange, cinnamon and cloves.
lyme BayWinery
The Lyme Bay Winery • www.lymebaywinery.co.uk • Telephone 01296 551355
Cheltenham Kitchenerprovides a fantastic rangeof essential items for your
Christmas preparations, as wellas some really lovely gift ideas.They stock traditional mixingbowls and pudding basins, as wellas all the tools for you to preparean exquisite Christmas dinner.
For thoughtful gifts, choose froma whole range of knife sets,bakeware and Kitchenaid mixers,or cookie cutters for kids. New toCheltenham Kitchener is theirsugar craft and cake-decoratingdepartment – give your Christmascake a dazzling finish.
ChelTenhamkiTChener
4 Queens Circus, Cheltenham, GL50 1RXTelephone 01242 235688 • www.kitchenercookware.com
Quote ‘flavour’ in-store or online for a festive 5% discount on your order.
Set in beautiful surroundings, TheDundry Inn is a stunning villagegastro pub, serving exceptional,
seasonal food and drink – on an ever-changing menu – in a warm, welcomingand cozy environment. And if it's not on themenu, just ask. The Dundry Inn is happy toreceive requests for dishes to suit.
Three snug restaurant areas provide theperfect setting for the fantastic quality foodon the menu. Dundry Inn is now offeringgift vouchers, in multiples of £10. Thesemake the perfect gift for loved ones, or justa thank you to someone special.
This charming pub is open throughout thefestive period and offers a delicious three-course menu for £24.95, or a seven-coursemenu on Christmas Day for £70 per head.
The DunDry inn
Church Road, Bristol, Avon BS41 8LHTelephone 0117 964 1722 • www.dundryinn.co.uk
Visit The Dundry Inn and see just why it is the place to eat in Bristol
and experience for yourself why their motto is to provide a 'service
standard always aiming to exceed expectations'.
Elizabeth Shaw is most certainly one of the
premier confectioners this country has, don’t miss
out on the gorgeous treats they have on offer.
Elizabeth Shaw is one of the UK’slongest-established and best-lovedchocolate brands, and is famous
for its timeless classics, such as theiconic Chocolate Mint Crisp, and FamousNames Liqueurs.
The company also has a whole range ofdelicious and contemporary flavours,such as Milk Chocolate Butterscotch and Dark Chocolate Caramel, all withElizabeth Shaw’s melt in the mouthhoneycomb crisp. With so many moreishoptions on offer, you certainly won’t bedisappointed.
Perfect for a Christmas gift, ElizabethShaw’s Mint Collection could be just thething - a sophisticated selection of darkand milk chocolates, infused with theirown specially-selected mint oil, and with a gorgeous decorative seal around thepack, this makes the perfect pressie.
For an alternative festive surprise, yousimply must try their renowned FamousNames Liqueur chocolates, now alsoavailable in a super large pack, a must forany liqueur lover! Featuring deliciouslysmooth liqueur centres encased in richdark chocolate, these classic chocolatesare made to a unique recipe, giving you a luxurious experience every time.
12 Becket Court, Pucklechurch, Bristol, BS16 9QG • www.elizabethshaw.co.uk • Telephone 01179 371 200
Parabola Road, Cheltenham, GL50 3AQ • www.hotelduvin.com/hotels/cheltenham • Telephone 01242 588450
elizaBeTh shaW
Thinking of a Christmas gift with a difference? Then this little bundle of treats is the perfect festive offering...
Cheltenham
T hey say it's the thought that counts. Thisyear make sure it really counts with 'Hisand Hers' festive hampers from Hotel du
Vin & Bistro Cheltenham.
For the ladies the hamper includes a bottle ofexpertly-selected Hotel du Vin Champagne and an Espa gift set. The hamper also includes twotickets to a cooking demonstration with Head Chef Paul Mottram on Thursday, January 12from 10.30am to 2.00pm. The demonstrationincludes Chef's selection of dishes for a starter,main course and dessert, all created usingseasonal homegrown and local produce. Thedemonstration concludes with a three-courselunch and a glass of wine with Chef.
'His' hamper contains treats such as a Romeo y Julietta Number 1 Cigar, a bottle ofCheltenham Special pale ale, a bottle of specialpremium ale from Battledown Brewery and twotickets to the Battledown Beer Dinner onThursday, January 19, which consists of fourcourses with ales to match.
For a gift that brings treats and memorableexperiences together for only £125, think Hotel du Vin & Bistro Cheltenham.
hOTel DuVin& BisTrO
Jon Thorner’s remain a most reputable business, whose ties to local
suppliers and farmers stand them in an excellent position to provide
you with the very best cuisine for the festive season.
Sometimes finding the perfect Christmaspresent for food lovers can be difficult,but Jon Thorner’s of Shepton Mallet
offer a fantastic solution: personalise abeautiful wicker or faux leather hamper bychoosing from their delectable range ofSomerset cheeses, locally produced chutneysand sauces, award-winning chocolates andspeciality savoury treats - and have themwrapped for that extra ‘wow’ factor.
You could please even the most discerningconnoisseur with the wonderful range ofregional wines, spirits, mead and cider theyhave to offer, which can be presentedbeautifully in hessian bags, along withcomplementary accompaniments.
For the ultimate foodie gift, choose the Jon Thorner’s Fresh LuxuryHamper, which contains everything
you need for the perfect three-courseChristmas feast. This contains a three bird roast; free range ham; Scottishsmoked salmon; homemade terrine; pork chipolatas; cranberry sauce; breadsauce; award-winning Christmas pudding;
homemade brandy butter; organic cheesetruckle; Tuxford & Tebbit Stilton, chutney
and a savoury biscuit selection – all for just£99.95. The Fresh Luxury Hamper serves four, and is guaranteed to delight.
A vailable this Christmas online or instore fromOrange Tree, an award-winning retailer based at Darts Farm near Exeter, Grace Elephant is a
captivating twist on the traditional soft toy. She’s madefrom premium fabrics and is weighted so she poses,flops and cuddles perfectly. At around 50cm high sheeven makes the perfect cushion or doorstop!
Orange Tree has previously won Best Independent Retailer in the South West and Wales and Best Retail Initiative at The Greats Retail Awards.
JOn ThOrner’s
Or
an
ge
Tr
ee
Jon Thorner’s Bridge Farm Shop, Pylle, Shepton Mallet, Somerset BA4 6TA • www.jonthorners.co.uk • Telephone 01749 830138
Orange Tree, Darts Farm, Topsham, Devon EX3 0QH Telephone 01392 876688 • www.theorangetree.co.uk
Visit Orange Tree for handpicked gifts, decorations, beauty, fashion and unique interior pieces.
• Your name on a vine in oneof our Pebblebed Vineyardsfor a year
• Follow the vine through the growing year with emailphotos of your adopted vinetogether with our newsletter
• A bottle of our Pebblebed wine
• Vineyard tour and tastingfor two people. Come andsee your adopted vine
• One years membership ofFriends of Pebblebed whichgives 10% off any winepurchases and invites tovineyard events
• Costs only £45.00
www.pebblebed.co.uk
~ aDOpT a Vine ~peBBleBeD
As winter draws in, the cold winds howland the frost is biting, there are fewthings more comforting than nestling
up with a nice warm cuppa. And not just anyold cuppa either: teapigs tea is made fromonly the very best whole leaves, berries and flowers – not that dusty stuff found inregular teabags. teapigs tea is presented toyou in special tea ‘temples’ – a roomy meshbag that gives the leaves plenty of room to
infuse – so you get a great tasting cup of tea. As a stocking filler for tea aficionados,teapigs teas will more than satisfy even the most demanding connoisseurs of the exalted leaf.
Their range is really rather exciting anddiverse; there’s something for everyone.You’ll find all the classics like EnglishBreakfast, Darjeeling Earl Grey
(for your more traditional friends), a specialSpiced Winter Red Tea for a bit of festivespirit, and for your more adventurouscompadres, a Chilli Chai and even aChocolate Flake tea. teapigs also do somefunky teaware, gadgets and gifts for thosetea nuts in your life (we all have at least one).
Teapigs, 1 The Old Pumping Station, Pump Alley, Brentford TW8 0AP
Telephone 0208 568 1313 • www.teapigs.co.uk
The teapigs range is really rather exciting and diverse;
there’s something for everyone.teapigs
The Village pOTTeryAdd an individual quirk to your Christmas
gift list this year. The Village Pottery,Clifton, can personalise anything from
mugs to boiled egg and soldier plates. Choosefrom a variety of glazes to suit your style.
Each item is lovingly hand-thrown on thepotter’s wheel so please allow time for Jen to make your order. If you would rather getmucky yourself then why not give a potterylesson as a gift? Check out our new range,Beeline Ceramics, raising awareness of the threat to bees. Available in Lavender, Poppy or Echinacea. Email Jen with any questions:[email protected]
Each item is lovingly hand-thrown by Jen on the potter’s wheel!
70 Princess Victoria St,Clifton, Bristol BS8 4DD
01179 734343 www.thevillagepottery.co.uk
READER
OFFER
YOUR ORDER20% OFF
QUOTE FLAV11
WHEN ORDERING*
*(va
lid until 30
th N
ov 201
1, exc
lude
s ch
eeky dea
ls and
gifts)
Enigma Pottery, a gallery shop that holds an Aladdin's cave of ceramics created by Jenny Barton
Tucked away at the top of VicarageStreet in the artisan town of Frome,you will find Enigma Pottery, a
gallery shop that holds an Aladdin's caveof ceramics created by Jenny Barton. Justask, and Jenny will take you through tothe beautiful walled garden to visit thestudio where she works and where youcan newly discover your inner creativity.
Some special gifts to look out for include;studio tableware made to order in a rangeof colours and textures and high fired tobe dishwasher proof; romantic heartbowls and mugs, hand-modelled flowers,soap dishes and heart shaped trinkets;personalised logos, hand-carved andadded to a range of products; and gardensculptures including fairies with attitude –secretly smoking or drinking – availableto discover in the studio garden alongsidethe bird baths and garden pots.
15 Vicarage Street, Frome BA11 1PX • www.enigmapottery.co.uk • Telephone 01373 452079
31 Bathwick Street, Bath BA2 6NZ • www.facebook.com/pages/indulgence-cafe. • Telephone 01225 316265
Indulgence Café is a charming destination, and the cakes and pastries
there are sublime, making it a must-visit for any Christmas shopper.
Replacing what was formerly BathDeli in Bathwick St, Bath, is anew venture led by South African
pastry chef Katherine Small. Thepremises have been re-launched asIndulgence Café, and the tasty treats onoffer there certainly live up to its name!
After working for more than ten years inthe restaurant industry in both the UKand South Africa, Katherine has alwaysdreamed of opening her own patisserie.That dream has been realised, and verywell indeed. Katherine and her youthfulteam make everything on site, with thebest local ingredients sourced fromlocal quality suppliers.
In Indulgence Café, Katherine hascreated a place where customers feelcomfortable, and can enjoy delicious,freshly baked products in a relaxed and homely atmosphere.
She has quickly gained the support of the local community, and as wordspreads around like wildfire, customersfrom further afield are coming tosample the home-baked delights atIndulgence Café.
The café stock a wide range ofhomemade and packaged products,such as preserves, biscuits, meringues, biscotti, as well as manydelightful festive gifts which willavailable soon.
They also provide a selection of freshlyprepared sandwiches on a variety offreshly baked breads and rolls, savourytarts, pies, daily soup and saladspecials. There is an office cateringservice for fresh products to be delivered to your workplace as well as bespoke cakes prepared for any special occasion.
inDulgenCe Café
enigmapOTTery
gr
ass
e
3 Argyle Street, Bath BA2 4BA
Telephone 01225 444260
www.grasse.me.uk
Grasse provides some really thoughtful
Christmas gift ideas; don’t miss out when
choosing for your loved ones this winter.
Grasse is a lovelyboutique shop inBath specialising in
distinctive luxury productsfor the home and garden,many of them handmadeand recycled. Grasse,named after the southern French town, also stocks a selection of bespokeand antique items. There is a rangeof truly tempting skincare products,along with some wonderful organiccandles and room mists. Grasse isnow a stockist of Le Chameauwellies and accessories.
Grasse provides some reallythoughtful Christmas gift ideas;don’t miss out when choosing for your loved ones this winter.
Enigma Pottery, a gallery shop that holds an Aladdin's cave of ceramics created by Jenny Barton
15 Vicarage Street, Frome BA11 1PX • www.enigmapottery.co.uk • Telephone 01373 452079
gr
ass
e
For further information and a list of all our courses please check out our website
www.foodworkscookeryschool.co.uk or call us on 01242 870538
fOO
DW
Or
ks
CO
Ok
ery
sC
hO
Ol
CHRISTMAS GIFT VOUCHERSA perfect way to indulgesomeone's love of food, from complete beginners toadvanced cooks
CHALET, YACHT AND GAP YEAR COURSES 2012 The Foodworks cookeryschool provides professionaltuition in a relaxedatmosphere offeringeverything from day coursesto residential training, privatehire to corporate entertaining.
28
Wine columnist Clare Morris has over 10 years’ experiencein the drinks industry, consulting with hotels, restaurants,pubs and bars across the UK. She is currently studying for a Diploma at the WSET London Wine and Spirit School.
Fabulous as Champagne is, inthe colder months I’m equallydrawn to my spirits cupboardwhere there are somewonderful winter warmerslurking. A bottle of spirits –particularly at the morepremium end – makes a gift with real ‘wow’ factor – so good perhaps, that youmight be rewarded with a little sample yourself. MartellXO is one of the best Cognacsaround – fact. XO stands for Extra Old, if you werewondering, aged for aminimum of six years butusually over 20. Gingerbread,dried fruits and orangemarmalade flavours – perfectfor Christmas time, with a stunning arched bottle to match. You can find atwww.thedrinkshop.com for£110, or, if that’s a little steep,the Cordon Bleu at £81 onwww.thewhiskyexchange.comPricey, but you certainly getwhat you pay for. I highlyrecommend a couple ofglasses at Pennyhill ParkHotel and Spa in Surrey before you take the plunge on the bottle. www.pennyhillpark.co.uk
Moving up the price ladder a notch, here’s one of the most elite Champagnes on the market - the Perrier-JouëtBelle Epoque. With its beautifulArt Nouveau anemone bottledesigned by Emile Galle, it’s also one of the most iconic.Waitrose helps us out again as a stockist, with a gift packpriced at £90. It just doesn’tseem fair to give away a Champagne this good without knowing what it tastes like yourself, so you can indulge yourself atLainston House Hotel, a gorgeous 17th-centurycountry house in Winchester.Maybe one to combine with one of their fantasticChristmas break packages?
www.lainstonhouse.co.uk
It’s that time of year again when we’re all desperatelyracking our brains as to what to buy our loved ones.Hopefully the Christmas gift guide in flavour this month
will help you out if you’ve drawn a blank. However, for adifferent approach, why not try some premium spirits orChampagne as a gift? Working in the trade I’m a bit biasedon this score, but it’s always a winner for me! Here’s somesuggestions for a range of different products, with somestockists for you to try a sample for yourself first, just asresearch of course…
I’ll start with one of my favouriteChampagnes – Charles HeidsieckBrut Réserve. If you love thestrong biscuity flavour of vintageChampagnes, this is the non-vintage for you. Aged for fouryears to get its rich flavour, it’s not surprising it’s won‘wine of the year’ in twoawards already this year.You can buy a bottle as agift from Waitrose at£32, or if you fancysampling yourself firsthead to Hermanos inClifton, Bristol, whereit’s a very reasonable£45. You may find me inthere working my waythrough their stocks!
www.hermanos.co.uk
seasonal stockpilethe
29
> flavour clare morris
It wouldn’t do to have aChristmas list without a bottleof whiskey nestling in there, and a pretty special one at that. The Balvenie SingleBarrel, aged 15 years, is a wonderfully complex agedmalt. I love the tasting note on its website which I thinkdoes it perfect justice ‘a honeyed maltiness withvanilla, oak and delicate spice’.As a single barrel product(literally, drawn from onebarrel – not blended withanother) there will be slightvariations from batch to batch.An excuse, in my opinion, forfurther research to learn tospot the difference. Our friendswww.thewhiskyexchange.comcan help us out here at £48, or you can put your tastebudsto the test at the secludedBerwick Lodge Hotel, nestled away just a couple ofminutes from the M4 and M5near Bristol. It has its ownhelipad in case you want toarrive in style…www.berwicklodge.co.uk
Here’s another single barrel(bourbon) whiskey although a total taste contrast to theBalvenie - this time for all the Jack Daniel’s lovers outthere. There are certainlyplenty of them! At JackDaniel’s the smoothest andmost intensely-flavouredbarrels are set aside tomature further, with extraflavours of toasted oak,caramel and vanilla. Again,each bottle and each barrel are unique, carrying the ricknumber, barrel number and bottling date - thisuniqueness in itself making a great gift. Available atselected Sainsbury’s (and online) for £37, or savour a glass at Smokin’Aces cocktail bar and whiskeylounge in Bournemouth. I’m a big fan of the quote on their website: ‘there is no solace for the soul, no tonic for the body, like old bourbon whiskey.’ I couldn’t agree more. www.smokin-aces.co.uk
And, one final product for thoseof you who are not so fond ofdark spirits, or maybe somethingextra for those of you who are –Grey Goose vodka. With a five-step distillation process and theprestigious title of ‘the world’sbest tasting vodka’, it’s worth a try to see if you agree. After all those heavy, winterdigestifs, give your tastebuds arefreshing alternative and mixyourself a festive cocktail. GreyGoose adds an extra touch offinesse as your base spirit, andI think you’ll be surprised howeasily even the least bartender-like amongst you can pull off asleek, professional looking (yes,and tasting!) cocktail. You’ll findGrey Goose at Waitrose for £33,or I can highly recommendsampling at Buddha Lounge in Southampton, looking out on the roof terrace. www.the-buddha-lounge.com
Here’s a winter-flavoured cocktailsuggestion to getyou started:
the flamingblack stud
Ingrediants50ml Grey Goosevodka 25ml blackberrypurée10ml Grand Marnier 10ml lemon juice 1 barspoonbalsamic gomme (half gomme, halfaged balsamic)
MethodShake all ingredientswith ice and strain.Garnish with aflamed orange peel and a singleblackberry. Enjoy!
Visit the new website: www.edelishop.co.uk
At the foot of the Mendips between Chew Valley and Blagdon Lakes, the Ring O' Bells nestles 10 miles to the south of Bristol and Bath,
equidistant to them both, on the main A368.
Butcombe Brewery's oldest owned pub has recently undergone a major faceli, helping to give a new polish to an old classic.
e pub retains its traditional feel however, and great wooden beamsstraddle the ceiling of the warm and inviting bar.
A great range of continental lagers and Butcombe ales are available, and the staff are warm and welcoming.
A lovely destination pub, e Ring O’ Bells is certainly worth a visit!
Ring O’ Bells
Ring O’ Bells ~ Compton Martin ~ Bristol BS40 6JETelephone: 01761 221284
www.ringobellscompton.butcombe.com
BOUGHT,BORROWED& STOLEN
Allegra McEvedy
As a professional chef, Allegra McEvedy has developed a healthyadmiration for the tools of her trade, and it became her quest tosearch for a knife that reflected the country she was currently eatingin. From each of 20 countries, Allegra has chosen the absolute best of what she ate there - flavours that engrained themselves in her food memory and are what she calls “knock-your-socks-off yum.” We have selected a few that we think will tickle your tastebuds andleave you wanting more…
“This is the first cookbook I’ve written that
isn’t about recipes that I’ve come up with:
instead it’s a book of special things
I’ve eaten all over the world that moved me,
and that I’ve recreated using my notes
and taste memory. Wherever you
are in the world, there’s no
better way of giving people
joy than by handing
them a plate of food
made with love
…and watching
them love it too.”
Some women collect shoes - Allegra collects knives!
32
BRUNCH HASHis, or something like it but a bit greasier, wasthe first thing I ate when I went on my illegaljob-hunting mission to New York in this tinyjoint on Second Avenue. is is one of the yum-miest brunch dishes out there: such a quick andeasy cook – I dare you to make a hash of it!
Serves 4
Ingredients500g potatoes (ie 2 largeones), diced3 tablespoons light oil2 tablespoons butter2 onions, diced 2.5cmsquare4 really thick slices of saltbeef*, weighing about 75geach, large diced or roughly broken into big pieces1-2 tablespoons Dijonmustard, to tasteA big handful of flat-leafparsley, chopped4 medium, cooked beetroot(about 200g), diced4 spring onions, sliced4 eggsA good pinch of chilli flakesSalt and pepper
CONFIT SALMONIN GINGER JUICE
Purity is an important part of Japanese culture,and the cleanliness of this dish reflects that. We eat porridge for breakfast and they eatsalmon, ginger and salty soy: ours is for the energy levels, but this, first thing in the morning,definitely feels like brain food.
IngredientsAround 600ml rapeseed/light oliveoil/grapeseed oil (or enoughto submerge your salmon pieces)300g piece of salmon, from the head end,skin on and pinboned150g/5oz ginger, washed and peel left on2 tablespoons sake2 tablespoons mirin1 tablespoon light soy sauceA small handful of alfalfa sprouts½ punnet of mustard cress50g salmon eggs
Method1Warm the oil in a shallow pan/small fryingpan (about 20cm/8 inches across) over amedium heat: you’re looking for the point at which a corner of bread fizzles with smallbubbles but nothing explosive happenswhen you drop it in. From there turn the oildown a bit and wait a couple of minutes sothat the temperature stabilises (for thosewith thermometers, it’ll be around110°C/230°F).
2 Halve the salmon along both axes to make4 squarish blocks, then slide them into theoil, skin-side down. They should sink andbubble gently but you don’t want them tocolour at all. Cook for 3 minutes, then gentlylift them out and drain on kitchen paper.
3 Using the big holes, grate the ginger into a bowl. Pick up half of it, squeeze the fibresover a little bowl to extract the juice, andonce you’ve squeezed the life out of it do thesame with the other half – it should produce3-4 tablespoons of juice (you can keep thesqueezed solids to make tea/toddies). Mixthe ginger juice with the sake, mirin and soy.
4When the salmon has cooled to roomtemperature, peel off the skin. Spoon thesauce onto 4 plates, and put a piece of fishon each. Mix together the alfalfa andmustard cress, and put a small pile ontoeach of the fish pieces. Share the salmoneggs between the 4 plates and serve thewhole thing at room temperature.
(Pictured on previous page)
BOUGHT, BORROWED & STOLENBy Allegra McEvedyPublished byConran Octopus, £25
33
Method
1 Cover the potatoes with cold salted water, put ona high heat and bring to the boil, then simmer untilthey are almost tender and drain.While the spuds are cooking, heat half the oil withhalf the butter in a large, heavy pan and fry theonions over a medium heat until they are softeningand starting to brown.
2 Chuck in the drained potatoes, add the rest of theoil, turn the heat up to maximum, and fry for a fewmore minutes, until the potatoes are just starting topick up some colour.
3 Season, stir in the beef, mustard and parsley andlastly add the beetroot, turning it in carefully so asto avoid everything going pink. Once the beetroot iswarm – just a minute or two – turn the heat off andstir in the spring onions.
4 Fry the eggs in the rest of the butter, then seasonand sprinkle with chilli flakes. Divide the hash into 4portions and put an egg on top of each.
PIQUILLO PEPPERSSTUFFED WITH BRANDADA DE BACALAO
is is one of my all-time favourite tapas – the saltiness of the fish, the creaminessom the mash and the slight piquancy of the peppers all come together perfectly in every bite. As with most tapas, these are great party food, but I’ve also done a couple with a bit of rocket as a damn fine starter.
Makes 16ish
Ingredients175g salt cod400g mashingpotatoes, peeled4 tablespoonsextra virgin olive oil3 small shallots(or 1 bananashallot), finely sliced2–3 cloves ofgarlic, minced2 pinches ofsmoked paprika,preferably the hot one but sweet will do3 tablespoonsdouble creamA squeeze of lemon, if you fancy itA tin or jar ofpiquillo pepperswith at least 16 pieces in it,drained pepper
Method
1 Soak the salt cod overnight, changing thewater a few times. Next day, first get yourmash going: quarter the spuds into cold saltedwater, bring to the boil, simmer until tender,then drain. While the spuds are going, lift thecod out of the water, pick/cut out any bonesand peel off the skin, then roughly chop theflesh.
2 Preheat the oven to 180°C/350°F/gas mark4. Heat the oil in a medium-sized frying panand fry the cod, shallots, garlic and smokedpaprika for a few minutes until the cod isopaque and the shallots have softened, thenturn the heat off.
3 Once the spuds are well drained mash theminto the cod with the cream. Season well withpepper and a squeeze of lemon, and let themix cool a little by spreading it out on a plate.Stuff the peppers, put them on a small, bakingtray, then brush them lightly all over withwater.
4 Bake in the oven for 10ish minutes until hotbut not collapsing; you can give them a splashof extra virgin olive oil when they come out ofthe oven if you want, but in Spain they areusually served matt.
LOBSTER SPAGHETTINIe best start to a New Year I’ve ever had: 1 January, sitting in the CampoSanto Stefano in Venice eating this dish in the sunshine. I don’t think I’ve ever felt so set up for the year to come.
Serves 4 as a starter
Ingredients
1 live lobster(weighing about600g)A knob of butterExtra virgin olive oil150g driedspaghettini75ml double creamA small handful of tarragon, finely choppedA large handful offlat-leaf parsley, finely choppedA small squeeze of lemonSalt and pepper
For the stock200g shell-on NorthAtlantic prawns, raw or cookedA splash ofsunflower oil or other light oil½ an onion, cut in half againA few cloves ofgarlic, unpeeled3 tomatoesMixed stockvegetables (carrots, celery,fennel, mushrooms,parsley, bay leavesetc), roughlychopped
Method
1 To make the stock, first whiz theprawns in a food processor for a coupleof moments to break them up a bit. Fry them in oil over a high heat for a few minutes, then add the onion, garlic,tomatoes and the mixed stockvegetables. Stir together until thevegetables have warmed up, and thencover with water – about 1 litre/ 1¾ pints. Put a lid on the pan, bring tothe boil, then turn the heat right down,tilt the lid so the pan is only half covered,and let it gently bubble for 30 minuteswhilst you amuse yourself elsewhere.
2 Once it’s cooked, drain the stock into abowl, and really push down on the solidsusing the back of a ladle so that all thegoodness is squeezed out. Pour theliquid back into the pan and boil untilreduced by about two-thirds, giving it a good skim along the way.
3Meanwhile, bring a large pot of waterto a rapid boil. Put in the chilled,knocked-out lobster and boil it for 10minutes. Fish it out, keeping the water,and leave the lobster to cool. Preheat theoven to 180°C/350°F/gas mark 4. Bringthe pan of water you used to cook thelobster back to the boil, with a big pinchof salt and a dash of olive oil; keep the lid on.
4 Boil the spaghettini in the lobsterwater until just al dente, then drain andcover. As the pasta is cooking, lay thelobster on its back and use a long sharpknife to split it into two lengthwise. Crackthe claws with the back of the knife, puton to a baking tray and spread the butteron the lobster flesh. Put the empty pastapan straight back on the heat and whenit is really hot pour in the prawn stock(helps double-time reducing). Bring to a rapid simmer, add the cream andseasoning, and let it bubble until it is asauce-like consistency.
5While the sauce is reducing, cover thelobster with foil and reheat in the oven(10 minutes). When you are ready toserve, stir the cooked pasta, tarragon,parsley and seasoning into the sauce.Finish with a squeeze of lemon. Plate thelobster and, like the presentation I had inVenice, use tongs to drape the pasta overand around the lobster’s body.
> flavour allegra mcevedy
Now that all your summer marriage
proposals have hopefully been
accepted, you may want to start
thinking about where to hold that
special day. Well, we've done the
hard work for you and put together
some fantastic venues to make the
big moment in your life just perfect...
flavourin association with
The Antrobus Arms Hotel
guideWedding
35-41_FLSW_WeddingSupplement.e$S:Layout 1 25/10/2011 22:16 Page 35
Arms Hotel
15 Church StreetAmesbury SalisburyWiltshire SP4 7EU
01980 623163www.antrobusarmshotel.co.uk
As you enter the hotel the ambienceis perfect, the greeting warm,sincere and caring and you will
know that in choosing the Antrobus ArmsHotel for your wedding celebrations youwill have made the right choice.
For a day full of happy memories theprofessional team will help and guide youto ensure that your special day is a day toremember, a day to cherish for you andyour family throughout your lives.
As a licensed wedding venue the hotel is justifiably proud to be able to offer a package for your wedding to suit all tastes and budgets. It’s their aim to helpand advise on every detail from yourceremony, the wedding breakfast and yourevening function to ensure you both havethe freedom to enjoy your special day.
Every wedding is different, but theAntrobus Arms Hotel offers individualcare and attention to ensure your day ishow you would like it to be – tailor made to your requirements.
AntrobusMaking special dayseven more special!
Aomantics are invited to make the most importantcommitment of their lives at
Cotswolds88hotel. With a full licencefor wedding services, couples can share their day with up to 100 special friends and family as they exchange vows.
Cotswolds88hotel is set in thechocolate box village of Painswick,with easy access to the nearby townsof Cheltenham, Cirencester andGloucester and only 40 minutes fromBath. Resting on an ancient Romansite, the 18th-century classicalmansion is a spectacular example of a
late Palladian house which has beenaltered over the decades by a variety ofarchitects including arts and craftsimpresario Detmar Blow.
Cotswolds88hotel provides a trulyidyllic setting for your wedding orhoneymoon with its stunning locationand panoramic views across theCotswold Hills. Every ceremony isbespoke and catered towards yourevery need. Believing that no twoweddings should be the same,Cotswolds88hotel ensures everyaspect should reflect the couplethemselves, tailoring to every budget.Cotswolds88hotel can offer you and
your guests a menu based around yourfavourite dishes. Choose between apre-order system or a more traditionalwedding menu, where you and yourguests all eat the same.
You will have a dedicated weddingplanner from the start of your bookingup to and including your big day. Theidea is to take all the pressures awayfrom organising the details. Weddingsfrom this bespoke hotel have beenfeatured in some of the bestmagazines in the country andworldwide, so you can relax and enjoy the experience knowing you are in good hands.
88Cotswold
3535
Blanc EventsBakers & Cutlers HallsFriary BuildingQuakers FriarsCabot CircusBristol BS1 3DF01179 102412
www.blancevents.com
Situated in the heart of the Cabot Circusdevelopment in the centre of Bristol, Bakersand Cutlers Halls date back to the 13th century
and the Grade One listed Halls provide a wonderfuland unique venue for your special day. Each roomretains the original features from the period andprovides a stunning backdrop to any occasion.Whether your wedding is a small, private affair or a large celebration with all of your friends andfamily, Bakers and Cutlers Halls provide the perfect location.
As you would expect from a venue inspired byRaymond Blanc’s passion and creativity, food is atthe heart of any celebration, and they can offer ameal to suit any budget. From Champagne andcanapé receptions and buffets, to a three-coursemeal all chosen by you from the interactive menu, to the spectacular French classic croque-en-bouchewedding cake, at Bakers and Cutlers they canprovide it all.
They believe that each wedding is as individual as thecouple itself. The emphasis is on providing apersonal service to each couple, with the dedicatedstaff taking you through each stage of your big day –from the ceremony and wedding breakfast throughto your evening celebrations. Whatever yourdreams, Bakers and Cutlers provide the perfectblank canvas from which to start.
Priston Mill
Priston MillPriston Bath BA2 9EQ01225 423894
www.pristonmill.co.uk
On the most important dayof your life, where youchoose to spend it
is the most important thing to consider, after who youchoose to spend it with! A winter wedding at Priston Millis a fairytale dream come true:Two ancient venues steeped inhistory are seated amidstmarvellous landscaped gardens;whether draped in frost, mist orsnow, the gardens provide theperfect backdrop for those all-important weddingphotographs.
Tythe Barn is a majestic localefor the larger wedding party, andmore intimate events can be heldat the charming Watermill, whichhas been around since beforeDoomsday.
Priston Mill is situated justoutside the medieval village of Priston, only a few miles from Bristol and Bath, and theorganisers can assist in helpingyou find local accommodation for your guests, as well as giving advice on wedding cars,photographers, florists andentertainment.
Priston’s team of first class chefs can cater for all types ofoccasion. There are several setmenus to choose from for yournuptial meal, including thedecadent menu Avalon, and a lighter finger buffet eveningmenu. Alternatively, why nottailor the menu yourself? The team are happy to help, and you could find yourselvesfeasting on a medieval winter’sbanquet or anything else thattakes your imagination.
A wedding at Priston Mill issimply magical, and a day thatneither happy bride nor groomare ever likely to forget.
Woodlands Castle is a fairytalevenue for the perfect winterwedding. Situated in 12 acres
of private grounds surrounded bywoodland, the house is a secludedhaven; yet is just minutes fromTaunton town centre. The castle alsosits near junction 25 of the M5,providing a central meeting pointbetween Exeter and Bristol.
Woodlands Castle was built in 1810,and was remodelled and enlarged byrenowned architect Richard Carveraround 1833. Originally a farmhouse,Woodlands is far more elaborate thanyou would expect from a late 18thcentury building.
With its picturesque façade in the then fashionable pseudo-Tudor styleand its planted pleasure ground itseems that it was to be a stately home,designed for public appearance andprivate pleasure, rather then mereaccommodation.
For weddings and other privatefunctions the house is exclusivelyyours for the duration of your stay.Woodlands try to be as flexible as
possible, so whether you want tea andcakes on the lawn or a live band in theOrchard Suite, the house and groundsare available for you and your guests touse however you wish. It's your day, sothe dedicated team aim to create anevent that is as individual as you are.
Woodlands Castle is licensed for civilceremonies and can offer exclusivehire, so you can build your ownpackage and control your own budgets.Alternatively, set packages areavailable, and can include everythingfrom welcome drinks and wine to tablecentres and 3 course-meals. Forlarger numbers there is lawn space formarquees, which can be organised atno extra cost. For Christmas weddings,Woodlands Castle offers somefantastic deals; contact them to makearrangements.
There is a great catering team atWoodlands, that pride themselves onproviding excellent, reasonably priced,locally sourced, food to suit yourtastes. With over thirty set menu's tochoose from there is something to suiteveryone, or create your own menuand they’ll price it for you.
For special arrangements, WoodlandsCastle has a whole host of recommendedsuppliers they can help get in contactwith. Whether it be limo hire, fireworksor a bouncy castle you want, they areguaranteed to provide the level ofservice you would expect.
A winter wonderland awaits luckycouples at Woodland Castle, book nowfor the most important day of your life.
Woodlands CastleRuishtonTauntonSomersetTA3 5LU
01823 444955www.woodlandscastle.co.uk
Woodlands Castle
Charingworth ManorChipping CampdenGloucester GL55 6NS
01386 593555www.classiclodges.co.uk/charingworthmanor
Charingworth ManorC
haringworth Manor is a Cotswold manor house dating from the
14th century. Built of mellowCotswold stone, every cornerexudes character and quality.There are roaring log fires,ancient beams, flagstoned floorsand a wealth of antique furniture.There can be no more romanticplace in which to make a lifelongcommitment to the one you love.
The largest of the wedding suites,The Long Room, comfortablyaccommodates up to 85 guests; although up to 200 guests can be catered for in marquees. For smaller, more intimatecelebrations there are two further rooms each with its owndistinctive furnishing and decor.
Charingworth Manor is well-known for its superb dining andhas been rosetted by the AA. The chefs make full use of the fine array of local produce and can craft a menu that will suityour budget as well as your palate!
Finally, a mention for the hardworking Charingworth team!From the moment you make yourfirst enquiry until your last guesthas departed, you will find themprofessional, enthusiastic andbrimming over with ideas to makeyour day special! In short, theywill do everything possible toensure your celebration lives up to your expectations and on theday itself they will take care ofevery last detail, leaving youcompletely free to enjoy everymoment to the full.
Truly, a celebration at CharingworthManor is a magical occasion fullof memorable moments that willprovide happy memories for manyyears to come.
Stanton House HotelThe AvenueStanton FitzwarrenSwindonSN6 7SD
0870 084 [email protected]
Overlooking Stanton Lake and set amongst beautifulgardens, Stanton House offers a picture perfect venuefor your wedding. This Cotswold stonehouse is
located only ten minutes drive from Swindon, and so is alsoconveniently located for Stonehenge, Bath and Oxford. The dedicated wedding coordinators at Stanton House willguide you through every step of the preparations, to ensure that your day is as perfect as it should be and that all yourindividual needs are catered for.
Stanton House has four rooms licensed to hold civil weddingceremonies for up to 80 guests, the specially designed menuscan cater for all tastes and budgets, and drinks packages canbe adapted to suit your individual requirements. Evening
receptions for up to 120 guests can be held in the Lilac Room,which has its own bar and dance floor, and a Marquee can be added if higher numbers are required.
With views over Stanton Park, the Swan and Cotswold roomshave four-poster beds and luxurious bathrooms to ensure your stay is peaceful and relaxing. The Swan Room also boastsviews over Stanton Lake from its own balcony.
Your guests will be just as impressed with one of their 82 en-suite bedrooms, each boasting décor and furnishings in keeping with the original features of the historic building.
Stanton House is one-of-a-kind: Make your wedding day trulymagical in this stunning and unique country locale.
StantonHouse
42
With autumn becoming an increasingly popular time for a low-seasonweekend break, this month Holly Aurelius-Haddock does theseaside in style…
christchurchharbour
My daily commute takes me past a localhairdresser whose window depicts aseasonal event of some kind; be itChristmas, Easter, Valentine's Day or theroyal wedding. Created purely for theenjoyment of others, these displays neverfail to make me smile, breaking up themonotony of my route at the same time.
Last week’s mise en scène was a cluster offaded mannequins bearing sashes whichread 'make do and mend'. This wartimemantra got me thinking: if necessity is themother of invention, is austerity the motherof re-invention?
There is no end of things to lament indifficult economic times, but theregeneration of the British seaside to suitthe more modest holiday budget is mostcertainly not one of them.
Following an impressive £9m refurbishmentback in 2009, the Avonmouth Hotel was re-born as Christchurch Harbour Hotel,taking its place among a small group ofluxury coastal hotels whose other locationsinclude Sidmouth, Salcombe and St. Ives.
The hotel is located in one of the region'smost idyllic, yet arguably underrated spots.Waking up to dazzling views of Mudeford
Quay and the sea beyond, I suggest lettingthe weather dictate the day's activities. On a clear day, catch the ferry over toHengistbury Head and marvel at some theUK's most expensive beach huts, or if thecooler months don't permit too muchexploration, simply enjoy the coastal sceneryfrom the comfort of indoors beforeretreating to the sanctuary of the luxury spa.
Because no restorative break is completewithout due attention to meal times, thehotel’s two-rosette Harbour Restaurantoffers outstanding cuisine using localingredients chosen for their superb qualityand flavours. Head Chef Loic Gratadouxcreates menus that evolve with the seasonsand celebrate produce from the sea and thepastures of Dorset.
Locally reared meat features on the menuand being literally on the water’s edgemeans they also offer seafood landed dailyfrom the Dorset waters. A regular fixture is the highly recommended Mudeford crab and brown shrimp tian served withavocado purée and orange and vanilladressing – pleasing on the eye and thepalate in equal measure.
Retiring after dinner is unlikely to disappointeither, as each of this Grade II listed
building’s 64 rooms combines style andcomfort with aplomb. So expect all the crispwhite linen, fluffy towels and spacious bedspace needed to ensure a truly peacefulnight’s sleep.
Thanks to retreats such as ChristchurchHarbour Hotel, long gone are the days whena seaside holiday involved a donkey ride anda bucket and spade. Hotels of this kind boastcreature comforts aplenty, forming anexcellent base from which to explore all therugged beauty the British coastline has tooffer without having to worry if the sunshineis sporadic.
Christchurch Harbour Hotel & SpaChristchurchDorsetBH23 3NT
01202 483434www.christchurch-harbour-hotel.co.uk
> flavour christchurch harbour hotel
hotel
43
Thanks to retreats such as Christchurch Harbour Hotel, long gone are the days when a seaside holiday involved
a donkey ride and a bucket and spade
The Wine Bar is an excellent choice for an intimate meal. It serves fresh, speciality fish dishes on Thursday, Friday and Saturday evenings, sourced from a local fisherman.
Other speciality dishes include fresh pasta and Pieminister pies, which are extremely popular and come in a variety of flavours. There is also a wide range of other main meals and snacks to choose from andfantastic wines on offer.
The bar and restaurant area offers relaxing surroundings with extremelyfriendly staff who are happy to welcome locals and new faces alike.
19 High Street - Keynsham - Bristol - BS31 1DP01179 143153 - www.the-winebar-keynsham.co.uk
Keynsham Wine Bar The Seven Stars
A Abigail, Daughter of Alisonand Paul Brunsdon of TheWine Bar, Keynsham, is
the new landlady of The Seven Starsin Timsbury, near Bath. Warm andinviting, The Seven Stars is a greatdestination, whether you want adelicious meal, or are just popping in for a drink. Abigail has beenworking closely alongside top-notchchef Tom since opening in November 2010.
Alongside the extensive menu Tomserves his special board daily, wheredelicious salads and locally-sourcedproduce are always on the menu.Check out the fresh fish available onFridays and don’t forget to samplethe ever-popular Sunday Roastprepared by Tom between 12pm and 3pm. Booking is recommendedto avoid disappointment.
North Road - Timsbury - BA2 0JJ01761 479398
Head chef RichardBuckley of Demuthshas a passion for
bringing vegetables to thecentre of the plate: “I believethat local, seasonal produceshould be at the heart of allour food, nothing is moresatisfying than taking abeautiful vegetable straightfrom the field, treating it withrespect and serving it topeople you care about.”
Demuths Restaurant in Bath has been one of thecountry’s top vegetarian
restaurants for over 20 yearsand continues to redefinewhat it means to cook and eat vegetables in ourtimes. They strive to makehealthier, tastier, morecreative food using theworld-class produce grownin the fields around Bath.
In October and Novemberthere is no getting away from squashes. This recipe is a celebration of autumnwith cider, hazelnuts andsquashes combining to makea hearty, satisfying feast.
IngredientsFor the squashA selection of small localsquashes such as onion oracornThyme2 clovesSalt Rapeseed oil
For the cider cream2 shallots2 garlic cloves2 sprigs thyme2 juniper berries1 clove200ml cider200ml double creamSalt and pepper
For the hazelnut semolina gnocchi170ml whole organic milk20g unsalted organic butter50g semolina20g toasted hazelnuts15g old Winchester Cheddar, grated SaltBlack pepperNutmeg
MethodFor the cider sauce:1 Fine dice the shallots and fry in a littlevegetable oil until soft. Crush the garlic to apaste, add to the shallots and fry for 2 minutes.Add the cider, thyme and spices and reduce the cider by 2/3. 2 Add the Cream and simmer until the saucecoats the back of spoon. Put milk and butter intoa pan and bring to the boil, then remove fromthe heat and slowly add the semolina, stirringuntil thick.
For the gnocchi:Crush the hazelnuts and add to the mix with thecheese. Add nutmeg and season with salt andpepper. Spread onto a tray to cool and cut outrounds with a cookie cutter.
For the squashes;Wash the squashes and cut into 2cm wedgesremoving the seeds but leaving the skins on. Put into a bowl and add thyme and cloves, cover in oil and season heavily. Lay on a tray and cover tightly with foil, then roast at 200°Cfor 35 minutes.
To serve;Gently heat the sauce in a pan. Fry the gnocchiand a little savoy cabbage. Remove the squashfrom the oven and place on the plate with thegnocchi and cabbage. Pour the sauce over thetop and enjoy the perfect taste of autumn.
Demuths roast squash with hazelnutgnocchi and cider cream❉
2 North Parade Passage, Bath BA1 1NX01225 446059 www.demuths.co.uk
47
> flavour siân blunos
The days are getting colder and shorter but, look on the bright side, there’s nothing like a little comfort food to warm the body and soul. With the change in the weather come the winter sniffles – bugs are already doing the rounds at my daughter’s school – so now is the time to make sure children are getting all the important vitamins and nutrients from their diets to keep them healthy for the long cold winter months ahead. This is the season for soups, stews and one-pot home-cooked food… slow food.
We live in a fast-food world, but to combat that The Slow Food Movement was founded by food activist Carlo Petrini in 1986. This was mainly in response to the opening of a McDonalds near the Spanish Steps in Rome. To him, this seemed to represent a global takeover of industrialised, standardised food at the expense of good, traditional, regional food. He wanted to restore the value of food and meal times as a fundamental core of family life.
The international Slow Food Movement was formally constituted in Paris on November 9, 1989, when delegates from 15 countries agreed and signed a founding Manifesto. Its initial aim was to support and defend good food, the enjoyment of eating and a slow pace of life. It then broadened to encompass a wider quality of life with sustainability and environmental issues.
Slow Food is the voice of calm reason and quality to promote the greater enjoyment of food through a better understanding of its taste, quality and production. I started using a pressure cooker recently. I had always been a little nervous about using one but they are quick and easy once you get used to them, are reasonably priced and now I wouldn’t be without one. If you don’t own one just pop all the ingredients in a large pot in the oven and forget about it.
Chef, food writer, author and mother Siân Blunos is passionate
about children’s health and their eating habits, and believes that expanding your knowledge of food can only help benefit your child.
Cooking for CoCoLike most busy mothers, Siân wanted to feed her baby well, but didn’t have a lot of free time on her hands. Her solution was to develop recipes using a wide variety of fresh, available foods, which could be batch-cooked and used to stock the freezer. Now, she always has a range of delicious dishes on hand, and you can too. With a little care and planning you can give even the youngest of children the experience of good, fresh food, which is tasty and nutritious.
To order a personally signed copy of Cooking for Coco for only £8.50 (including postage), rrP £9.99, email [email protected]
know healthy food
Beef and Tomato CasseroleThis warming, wholesome, family favourite contains plenty of winter vegetables and is full of goodness. Once you have browned all the ingredients, just put the casserole in the oven and forget about it for one and a half hours – it cooks itself.
Makes 6 generous portions
ingredients
400g fresh tomato sauce or a tin of chopped tomatoes2 Tbspns Sunflower oil225g Lean chunk steak, diced1 Small onion, chopped1 Garlic clove, crushed50g Button mushrooms½ Swede, finely diced1 Small leek, chopped1 Small parsnip, chopped3 Medium potatoes1 pint Unsalted beef stockI Bay leaf
Method1 Preheat the oven to 160*C. Heat the oil in a heavy-bottomed, ovenproof casserole dish and fry the beef for about 4 minutes until nicely browned. Add the onion, garlic, mushrooms, swede, leek and potatoes and continue to brown for a further 4 minutes.2 Stir in the tomato sauce (or chopped tomatoes) and stock and add the bay leaf. Bring to the boil, cover and transfer to the middle of the oven. Bake for about one and a half hours or until the vegetables are tender. Leave to cool in the pan.3 When cool, remove the bay leaf and strain the casserole over a bowl and reserve the liquid. Whiz the meat and vegetables in a food processor, adding the reserved liquid to reach the correct texture. Alternatively, just mash the mixture for older babies. Divide into portions and serve.
48
Mitch Tonks runs RockFish Grill & Seafood Market in Clifton, Bristol. He is an award-winning chef, restaurateur and food writer and has two other seafood restaurants in Dartmouth.
I had the great pleasure of travelling on the UK’s last remaining Pullman dining car a couple of weeks ago, and on the journey was given a tour of the kitchen they use on board. It was a great reminder of the limited space available to cook in when travelling; from the galley of a kitchen to the back of a camper van, it can be a great challenge. But I have always said that no matter what the space available, you can still get not just good but great results.
When Matt Dawson and I travelled round the UK in my old 1976 camper van, we cooked up everything from South Devon crab with spaghetti to langoustine thermidor, with just the basic equipment available to us. As with most great food, good quality fresh ingredients are the key so try not to let practicalities get in the way too much - be adventurous. In the camper van kitchen don’t skimp on ingredients, just cut down on the pots and pans and go for a big fish stew like the one in my recipe; and if you’re lucky enough to travel on a boat try something tasty on toast like sardines, anchovies or mackerel.
If I had to give a few tips to help you make the most of limited space I would say: Reduce pots and pans and go for simple dishes. Serve these up in large bowls, family style, so that everyone can dig in.
In the meantime, if you want a little taste of old fashioned luxury I can recommend a trip to London or back on the Pullman carriage! ■
With sustainable fishing top on the agenda, each month regular flavour columnist and seafood specialist Mitch Tonks cooks up a storm with his seasonal fish of choice...
A Simple Fish StewServes 2
IngredientsFor the Aioli1 egg yolk½ tsp Dijon mustard2 cloves of garlic, pasted 75ml good olive oilJuice of ½ lemonSea salt
For the Stew1 shallot, finely chopped2 cloves garlic, choppedOlive oil2 chopped tomatoesPinch of saffron3 or 4 sprigs of thymeSplash Pernod or aniseSplash of white wineSelection of fish – you can use anything really, mussels, clams, gurnard, monkfish, wrasse, mulletSea saltParsley or basil chopped, for sprinkling over the top
Method1 For the aioli, put the egg yolk in a bowl with the mustard and garlic. Whilst whisking add the olive oil in a steady stream until a thick emulsion is formed. Add the lemon juice, season to taste.2 In a large pan, sweat the shallots and garlic in olive oil. Add the tomatoes, saffron and thyme and stir together. Add the Pernod and tip the pan away from you allowing it to burn off the alcohol. Add the wine and simmer gently for 2 minutes. 3 Add the fish and add enough water (Henry could use sea water) to just cover it. Simmer for 8-10 minutes.4 Remove the thyme and season. Finally sprinkle with fresh chopped herbs and accompany with rich the garlicky aioli and bread.
Winners will receive two train tickets plus lunch any day on the Pullman carriage, of if they wish to travel at dinnertime, they can do so Monday to Wednesday. Lunch would be served on either the 1000 Penzance – Paddington train, or the 1255 Plymouth – Paddinton train. Or for dinner, service would be on the 1803 London-Penzance train, or the 1906 Paddington-Plymouth train. The offer is valid publishing date for 6 months.
Please send all competition entries to [email protected]
To win an opportunity to dine on First Great Western’s Pullman carriage, simply answer this question:
Q: Mitch Tonks has been promoting which South Devon shellfish in 2011? A) crab b) whelk c) langoustine
49
> flavour mitch tonks
© Mitch Tonks. RockFish Grill & Seafood MarketFishmonger, food writer, restaurateur www.rockfishgrill.co.uk www.mitchtonks.co.uk www.twitter.com/rockfishgrill Recipe taken from The Aga Seafood Cookbook by Mitch Tonks published by Absolute Press. Photo credit Pete Cassidy
> flavour xxxxxxx
There is something magical about the countryside in the autumn – something deliciously unkempt in the way fallen leaves are haphazardly strewn across narrow lanes, or huddled together against a dry stone wall for warmth. On a blustery November day, you gaze skywards to see John Keats’ ‘barred clouds bloom the soft-dying day’, or simply bask in the ‘rosy hue’ that gives you a warm feeling inside despite the falling temperature.
But there’s no doubt that the mercury is edging inexorably lower on the thermometer, so there’s a strong argument that the browns and oranges of fall are better viewed through the window of a warm and comfy pub.
Around four miles South of Bath down some windy lanes, in the picturesque village of Priston, the Ring O’ Bells provides an excellent vantage point from which to contemplate the changing of the seasons. Priston is an historic village. There was a Roman villa here around 100 AD, and Priston is mentioned in the Domesday Book. The pub gets its name from its proximity to the 12th Century Church of St Luke and St Andrew which, incidentally, is topped by a weather vane so large you can’t help wondering if someone
got their decimal point in the wrong place.
The pub itself is attached to the village hall, and built out of local stone. The exterior avoids the overly twee excesses of chocolate-box wannabes, and the pub boasts only a few benches against the front wall.
As you step inside, the first thing that hits you is the slightly smokey burnt wood aroma of the log fire. For me, the calming effect of a log fire in a stone-built pub should be prescribed on the NHS. Ahead of you is a welcoming stone bar. There are flagstones on the floor, which help add to the tranquil sense of timelessness.
Over to the left is a marginally more formal dining area. The food ranges from light bites to more hearty main dishes, but all are prepared with a heavy emphasis on using locally-sourced ingredients. On my visit, they did a mean salmon, and an utterly succulent local steak in a rich, rich sauce.
Whether eating or just stopping for that autumn-watch drink, there is an excellent selection of real ales for you to try. Bath Gem is an absolute staple these days, but that caramel flavour is never less than welcome. It is supplemented here by Wickwar Brewery’s Brand Oak Bitter
Ring o’ BellsPristonSomersetBA2 9EE
01761 471 467www.bathales.com
the ring o’ bells
A regular contributor to CAMRA magazine Pints West, Duncan Shine champions the virtues of real
ale and traditional cider. He’s also editor of the website britishpubguide.com
50
> flavour xxxxxxx
(or BOB). Now, if autumn were just one colour, I think it would be the coppery hue of a fresh pint of BOB! Also on tap is a brew made especially for the Ring O’ Bells by the Blindmans Brewery of nearby Leighton, whose brews benefit from the use of natural spring water during the brewing process.
Around to the right is that fire, with stacks of logs in the corner, and a large mirror on the wall. You can see where there used to be a dart board with spotlight, but best of all is the bench beneath the window on which to sit and watch the leaves flutter by. I must have had too much to drink on my visit, as I could swear I saw a black and white picture of water-skiing witches on the mantelpiece...
Toward the rear of the pub is a games room, which has a fooze-ball table, a selection of books along one wall, and a skittle alley. Well, I say skittle alley... Now, I’m now skittlologist, but I’m sure skittle alleys should be longer than this one is. I get the impression that some of my taller friends could almost knock down the skittles just by leaning forward and flicking them... No matter, the alley is well used, and anything that encourages locals and visitors alike to stay has to be a good thing.
It’s worth noting that the Ring O’ Bells closes from three in the afternoon until six, so make sure you time your visit carefully. That said, the village hosts frequent morris dancing and other folk events, and an annual duck race on the river. The pub is also an excellent starting and/or finishing point for some really good wildlife walks in the area. There are three B&B rooms available too if you want to make an overnight stop of your visit.
Whether dropping in for a quick drink, settling down for a meal or digging in for an entire session, the Ring O’ Bells is a charming reminder of how pubs used to be, and still should be. Friendly yet unprepossessing, historically significant yet utterly welcoming, supportive of local producers and breweries, but with a commitment to good quality food and drink.
Raise a glass to...Bath Gem (4.1%) From Warmley in Bristol. Caramel is the first word that springs to mind. It’s that mid-brown, almost amber colouring and malty aroma. It’s a really clever brew too, because as you drink it it’s all fruit and hops and full of flavour, but then as you drain the last drop and utter a satisfied ‘aaah’, you sense a dryness in the mouth that sends you back for another.
Wickwar BOB (4.0%) Brand Oak Bitter is the flagship brew of the brewery now situated on the site of the original Arnold Perrett & Co brewery in Wickwar. This is a copper coloured best bitter with a distinct hint of fireworks and bonfire night, sparklers and toffee apples. To the taste it has a nutty dryness that makes it dangerously quaffable.
Broad Oak Pheasant Plucker (4.5%) Good to see proper ciders that don’t overdo the alcohol content. This one has an orangey tint to it, not utterly still, but with only a very light hazy sparkle to it. Reassuring, too, to be able to actually smell apples in the bouquet!
Mole’s Black Rat Cider (6%) Made in Sandford, Somerset. This is a blend, traditional, unpasteurised cider that, unlike many sparkling ones, actually smells of apples. It looks bright and welcoming, and the flavour has none of that eye-twitching bite that some traditional ciders have. This means it drinks very easily, all clean and crisp, but treat it with respect, as the strength will sneak up and trip you over on the walk home.
51
53
QI’ve found my allotment inundatedwith marrow-scale courgettes. I’dlike to stuff a few, any suggestions? Beverly Butler, Uphill.
Cut the courgette in half, scrape out the seeds and fill with a ragout. Top with cheese and breadcrumbs and bake. Lamb is a fantastic meat to make theragout with and mint herb workswell with both.
Q
Q
I would really like to support theEnglish wine grower, but I findthem all very expensive. Is thereone you prefer that is both topquality and more affordable? Nimmie Goldsmith, Trowbridge.
The Three Choirs inGloucestershire does a wine tourand tasting for £8. They offer up aselection of fabulous winesranging from £6.20 to £13.10 abottle. Give it a try, it’s on yourdoorstep and I’m sure you’ll findan affordable English wine. If notthere are another 449 vineyardsto try.
Flagging veggie here: could you suggest a meatyalternative to animal flesh? (No Quorn please…) Roz Moody, Hartcliffe.
Halloumi is a cheese from Greece, traditionally made fromgoat or sheep’s milk. It has a really meaty texture, even whencooked. Grill or fry it, the choice is yours and it’ll help providethe balanced diet you enjoy.
askachef:
Ronnie’s of Thornbury 01454 411137 ~ The Muset by Ronnie 01179 737248 ~ www.ronnies-restaurant.co.uk
Can chocolate really complement savouryfood and what dish would you recommendas the perfect example of the match? Steven Hollis, Wells
Chocolate predates Mayan culture, but this is where it was first introduced to Westernculture, which added sugar and milk. So the short answer is yes. Unsweetenedchocolate has a bitter, spicy characteristicthat can enhance a dish, especially gamesuch as venison.
> flavour ask a chef
Halloween is coming up, and I want to give myguests a shock! What can I serve them?Emma King, Brize Norton.
Not something I’ve done much of myself, but I didoverhear a couple of mums talking about puttingpoached eggs in tomato sauce on spaghetti –bloody eyeballs on matted locks. I was shocked!
Ron Faulkner is the owner-chef of Ronnie’s and The Muset by Ronnie. His distinguished career
has seen him work in some of the mostprestigious kitchens in the UK and Europe, for celebrated chefs such as Anton Mosimannand Ed Baines. Schooled in classic Frenchtechniques, Ron’s modern European cookingstyle is underpinned with a passion for usingthe very best seasonal ingredients.
Nestled in amongst Wiltshire fields, boutique shops and quaint old amenities, the Methuen Arms sits at the heart of the quintessential English village of Corsham. Once the hub of village activity, before neglect left it a ramshackle ruin, this historic inn has been painstakingly restored and refurbished by the Still family. Martin and Debbie Still have a knack of taking dilapidated buildings that have not been loved for decades, and renovating them in a manner that is sympathetic to the original structure. Having said this, they are more than happy to make big changes where needed, rearranging rooms and knocking through walls to make the space as comfortable, atmospheric and welcoming as possible. They did it ten years ago with another inn nearby called The Pear Tree, starting from scratch as always. The aforementioned inn is now run by the legendary Marco Pierre White, and is testament to the care and attention to detail the Stills administer to their properties. The Methuen Arms is no different: Originally a medieval dwelling named Winter’s Court, the Methuen was built upon in the Georgian period, and the result is a fascinating mélange of architectural styles which vary from room to room.
Upon arriving we were greeted warmly by a waitress, the head chef, and Martin, pretty much all at the same time. This is partly down to the lovely approach the team has toward guests, but also due to the way that the Methuen Arms is now laid out: The building is very open-plan, and very accessible, with a centralised kitchen and walk-through wine vaults; very little is hidden from view. When everything is so open and on-show, it provides for a very immersive experience.
Although it was mid-week, the bar and restaurant were heaving. The Methuen has been open under the Stills for little over a year, yet they have already gathered quite the regular congregation. We browsed the menu at leisure over a glass of excellent Prosecco at a roughly-hewn table in the bar, before being escorted by our friendly waitress to the restaurant section.
As we ordered our wine - a full-bodied Bordeaux with oak and blackberry notes - we were served a basket of freshly-baked bread and butter, the bread still warm from the oven, always a pleasant touch.
I started with a pair of large, creamy scallops, served with capers, black olives, green heritage tomatoes and toasted bread. The scallops were pan-fried to buttery perfection, whilst the capers and olives combined to make a kind of rough tapenade. My companion opted for a chargrilled pigeon breast, rich and smoky.
Our mains arrived shortly after the mopped-clean starter plates had left the table. I had chosen duck breast - a great favourite of mine - served with lentils, black pudding, caramelised squash and green peppercorn sauce. Although I usually have my duck a little rarer than this one, it was nevertheless packed with flavour, and was complemented perfectly by the accompaniments. The butternut squash had a nectar-like sweetness that goes so well with roasted duck, and the Trealy Farm black pudding was hands down better than any I have ever tasted before. Period.
Edward chose a succulent fillet of pork, with polenta, shallots and chorizo. The pork was melt-in-the-mouth, and the contrasts in flavours; tangy, mellow and sharp, worked well.
All the dishes were superbly presented, with finely balanced colours and textures; every ingredient stood up well individually, as well as part of a whole, which is something I always find important. Call me finicky, but I like to be able to pinpoint each aspect of my dish.
Desserts came and then disappeared rapidly, but were no less memorable for it. My chocolate and hazelnut brownie was sumptuous, warm and crumbly, served with a healthy dollop of ice cream for good measure. His poached pears were equally impressive, a slightly more refreshing option if you can take no more rich food.
After washing these down with a number of their fine selection of Cognacs and Armagnacs, it was time to retire, sleepy, yet satisfied.
Its small wonder The Methuen Arms is so popular. With front of house staff that are at once amiable, knowledgeable and helpful, and an incredibly talented team behind the stoves, Debbie and Martin have a winning formula. Kudos to them for their inventiveness and flair, as well as the obvious love and respect they have for this historic inn.
54
the methuen armsThe Methuen Arms is fast growing a reputation for excellent cuisine. With high hopes and quite an appetite, Louis Labron-Johnson goes to investigate…
The Methuen Arms2 High StreetCorshamSN13 0HB
01249 717060www.themethuenarms.com
The Methuen Arms originally a medieval dwelling, was built upon in the Georgian period, and the result is a fascinating mélange of architectural styles which vary from room to room.
“
“
> flavour xxxxxxx
56
THE ROYAL CRESCENT HOTEL
The Royal Crescent Hotel is the most impressively located luxury hotel in the World Heritage City of Bath, occupying the two central buildings of the world’s finest crescent.
Beyond its magnificent façade lies a hotel renowned for its charm, elegance and superb service, and the unexpected beauty of the beautiful one-acre, landscaped garden leading to the skillfully converted coach houses, which now accommodate the
award-winning Dower House restaurant and Bath House spa.Special events throughout the month at The Crescent include; Dress for Success, a personal styling workshop on Monday, November 14 from 10.30am to 3pm including refreshments and lunch; a Festive Entertaining Workshop on Monday, November 21 from 10am to 2.30pm; or Speak Up, corporate communication for women (or how to be heard in a man’s world) on November 27 and 28. Visit the website for more information.
The Royal Crescent Hotel, 16 Royal Crescent, Bath BA1 2LS • 01225 823333 • www.royalcrescent.co.uk
WIN!
NEW FLAVOUR WEBSITE
The Royal Crescent is also offering one lucky reader an opportunity to win an overnight stay for two people in a deluxe double room, including dinner for two with a bottle of house wine, breakfast and full use of the spa and a one-hour treatment for each person.
Advance booking is essential, available Sunday to Thursday subject to availability; prize must be taken by March 31.
For your chance to win, email [email protected] leaving your contact details and stating where you picked up a copy of the magazine.
This month flavour launches its brand new website, featuring dozens of recipes, features, suggestions of where to find the best dining, chef profiles and many more ideas for lovers of great food and drink in the West Country.
Visit www.flavourmagazine.com for a brilliant browsing experience!
Jon Thorner’s is a great mainstay of the Somerset countryside, and one of the first farm shops in the region. Having been going strong in picturesque Pylle – near Shepton Mallet – for over 35 years, the farm shop has expanded to include a delightful café-style bistro; the Coffee Den. As it approaches its first anniversary, there is plenty to celebrate for this cosy little eatery.
Although it is set in the rural heartlands, the Coffee Den is surprisingly fresh and up-to-date. The décor is striking and contemporary, and the beautiful furniture carefully selected. Sitting alongside the farm shop, it is the perfect companion piece: lovely for a bite to eat and a spot of relaxation after a shopping trip. Not merely an aside to the farm shop, the Coffee Den is a worthy destination in itself. It provides more than just a café experience, as you can enjoy a three-course meal with wine here, and both food and service is impeccable.
Michelle Emery runs the café, and has overseen its surge in popularity following the opening. As well as lunch, the café now opens on Friday evenings for dinner, and will also be opening on Saturday evenings from November, as the team gear up for Christmas. Don’t forget to try the renowned cooked breakfasts, which win unanimous plaudits from all who have devoured them.
The Coffee Den is perfect for festive events. There is a snug and inviting dining area above the café that can seat 25, and larger parties can also hire out the main dining area. Two delicious menus have been created especially for Christmas, one for lunch, one for dinner. Evening guests should try the sumptuous beef Wellington, while early birds will be more than content with a perfectly cooked fillet of salmon served with creamy leeks.
“The farm shop originally started out sourcing from our own farm,” says founder Jon Thorner, “but as we’ve grown we’ve been really pleased to be able to champion other local producers as well. We now receive produce from over 25 farms and suppliers in just a 10 mile radius!”
Everybody here is friendly and affable, and always keen to chat or give advice on what’s tasty this season. No doubt we’ll be hearing a lot more about the Coffee Den in the future as this delightful little destination goes from strength to strength. The Coffee Den serves up great homemade food, at great prices. Bon Anniversaire to them!
Coffee DenStockwood Farm BuildingsPylle, Shepton MalletSomerset BA4 6TA
01749 838 938www.jonthorners.co.uk
57
THE COFFEE DEN
drops byflavour
at Jon Thorner’s
58
59
> flavour chef profile
There was no great epiphany in me deciding to become a chef; it was always going to happen, and from the age of about seven I was obsessed with food and its presentation. I started out at The Jack at the Green Inn, a great base for any young chef looking to develop their career. Initially I was washing dishes on the weekends, but soon got sucked in by the adrenaline of service. I gradually worked my way up the ranks to win Dessert of the Year in 2008, awarded to me by the Association of Pastry Chefs. That year I expanded my repertoire beyond pastry, and in 2009 was awarded South West Chef of the Year award in the Young Professional category – a great honour.
My noisy neighbours aren’t the only reason I get up in the morning! What keeps me going every day is the drive and the desire to please my customers, to have them walk away from my restaurant with a satisfied belly and a big smile on their faces. I will always strive to make those who know me proud – I have been given a lot of help and guidance over the years, and fully intend to make the best of what I have received.
I am constantly encouraging the team to be creative, and to keep things fresh and relevant – an idea can always be improved upon! I don’t want to be cooking the same dishes I am now in five year’s time. For me, being a chef isn’t just about preparing great food, it’s about discipline, flair and creativity as well.
The food we serve is classical cuisine with a contemporary twist. The Horn of Plenty isn’t about groundbreaking, off-the-wall-crazy dishes; we’re more interested in well-cooked, classic flavours with a little bit of a ‘wow’ factor. Fresh and local produce is always of the utmost
importance. Our gardens here at The Horn are full of the most amazing wild strawberries - definitely an essential ingredient - something so unique on the doorstep is really exciting!
There are many things that make the Horn of Plenty a very special destination, including the grounds and the rich and exciting history of the place. Most of all though, it’s the team that makes the Horn of Plenty great - not just the kitchen staff, but the whole team. We have two AA rosettes and we’re striving for our third. It’s really important for everyone here that we are all working towards the same goal.
It’s amazing to see how food has developed and moved forwards over the past 20 years, yet I certainly don’t think it’s peaked. I’m really excited to see what new things come onto the market. I would say this to aspiring chefs: Get your head down, work hard, and enjoy the young years. They will stand you in good stead for your future. ■
chef profile
The Horn of Plenty GulworthyTavistockDevon PL19 8JD
01822 832528www.thehornofplenty.co.uk
Name: Scott PatonAge: 24Originally from: ExeterHead chefs at: The Horn of Plenty Restaurant and Hotel
> flavour xxxxxxx
60
With financial and political crises taking the limelight, seriously parallel farming issues - a ferocious
gathering storm - go almost unnoticed. As we read about food in organs such as this, we might be surprised to learn that, just beyond the purely aesthetic delights of the morsels that reach our lips, there’s a story of great decline.
Sick soils, a toxic atmosphere, acidification of streams, rivers and oceans, newly-emerging diseases of food crops and livestock all confirm that the days of intensively produced plenty are nearing an inevitable end: Nature is showing us at every turn that the environmental, ecological and human costs are too high: the game is almost up and it looks as though we are on the brink of learning some hard lessons - more than a bit on the tardy side!
Human health and behaviour show disturbing signs of a malfunction and wild species are in a freefall of decline, all at a pace consistent with the passing of true agricultural wisdom and the loss of strong, numerous and resilient farming communities.
What’s more, we cannot escape the fact that the nutritive value of the vast majority of our foodstuffs - yes, even organic – has been plummeting too. For example, the most valuable constituent of our grains and our cereals – protein – is but a fraction of what it once was, yet its growing takes ever more expensive, harmful, synthetic inputs than ever before.
All this is not to say that we need to bring primitive conditions back to humanity, though we’d do well to remember the three genuine necessities for physical survival: food, warmth and shelter!
No, if we delve into the radically natural methods being pioneered by Ian and Denise Bell at Foxholes Farm in Dorset, then we are given a glimpse of why their meat (produced and marketed direct to customers under the label Heritage Prime) is hailed by the most notable food experts as “probably the best on the planet”.
On a broader plain, we’ll see a whole new template for the re-generation of farming as an indispensable social necessity, indeed where the farmer will be recognized for what he truly is: the most important professional of all; where our young may be inspired and
enabled to pursue farming as a career and, where the farm may become a haven for knowledge of the very forces, the spiritual elements, that play into the landscape in which we grow our food.
Here is a unique farm that, managed with the skills only to be attained through testing experience, has combined the great philosopher Rudolf Steiner’s biodynamic method with some of the afore-mentioned natural wisdom and a no-nonsense, complete rejection of all artificially derived material and pharmaceutical products.
Not for nothing do Ian and Denise Bell feature regularly as heralds of a future where blind materialism is relegated in favour of more wholesome, more life enhancing human ambitions, especially when it’s a matter of what we expect to gain from what we eat!
www.heritageprime.co.uk
heralds of a wholesome
future
"Time and again, in the chaos of the seed, the new organism is built up again out of the whole universe.” Rudolf Steiner, 1924
61
> flavour martin blunos
One of the South West’s most talented chefs, Martin Blunos was born and brought up near Bath, his parents having come to England from Latvia just after the Second World War. He has held two Michelin stars for more than 15 years and appears regularly on television and radio with regular
slots as guest chef on BBC1’s Saturday Kitchen with James Martin, BBC Market Kitchen, ITV Daily Cooks and ITV’s Saturday Cooks.
As winter extends its icy grasp, Martin Blunos sends us relief with a chocolately Spanish tradition…back to basics…
You don’t have to be a brain surgeon to know that autumn is upon us with a vengeance; trees are shedding leaves like crazy and the temperature has dropped big time. The notion that our Indian summer would last has been dismissed with a click of the central heating thermostat. The word on the street is that we are in for a stinking winter.
So what are folk to do? Huddle around the Aga, de-moth ball the thermals or in my case, fly off to the south of Spain. Alright for some I hear you say but this was business, honest! The weather was terrific although I didn’t get to see much of it as most of my time was spent behind a computer screen or on the road.
I was working with a (younger – he’ll love that bit) pal of mine setting up villa cookery ‘holidays’ for next year. Informal, laid back and above all fun is the ethos behind the week-long courses. Based in amazing villas, just outside Marbella, they entail
CHURROS N’ CHOC SAUCEFor the churros5 tbsp Vegetable oil1 tbsp Ground cinnamon1 Lemon, microplaned zest only200g Plain flour, sieved½ tsp Salt1 EggVegetable oil, for deep-frying6 tbsp Caster sugar For the hot chocolate225g Plain bitter dark chocolate, broken into squares900ml Milk175ml Double creamPinch of salt Method1. For the churros: place 300ml water in a saucepan with the oil, half the cinnamon and the lemon rind. Bring to the boil. Meanwhile, sieve the flour and salt into a bowl.
2. Once the water mixture is at a rolling boil, tip in the flour, beating well with a wooden spoon over a low heat until the mixture leaves the sides of the pan. Leave to cool a little, then beat in the egg.
3. For the hot chocolate: place chocolate in a bowl and set over a pan of simmering water until the chocolate has melted.
4. Heat the vegetable oil in a deep fat fryer to 180°C. Spoon the churros mixture into a piping bag fitted with a 2.5cm star-shaped nozzle. Pipe 7.5cm lengths of dough directly into the hot oil and cook for 3-4 minutes until golden, turning once. Cook in batches.
5. Meanwhile, mix together the remaining cinnamon and sugar on a flat plate. Use a slotted spoon to remove the cooked churros from the oil. Quickly drain on kitchen paper, then roll in the cinnamon sugar. Pile on to a plate and keep them warm while you finish cooking the rest of the churros.
6. To finish the hot chocolate, place the milk, salt and cream in a small saucepan. Using a spatula, add the melted chocolate, stirring to combine or ziss with a stick blender to make it frothy. Heat gently for a few minutes.
7. When ready to serve, pour the hot chocolate into mugs, dunk in the churros and enjoy…
IT’S HOT THERE AND COLD HERE!
market and producer visits and a live cooking experience in a local Restaurant (a la Hell’s Kitchen).Imagine though when it’s down time and you toss the apron on the chopping board, whack on the Speedos and dive into the villa’s pool, sipping on a cold one, catching a few rays while reflecting on the nuances of fish cookery – after all it is a holiday! (the picture, the view over the computer screen, shows said pool). The idea is, you come home with an armful of recipes, knowhow, a tan and a bunch of new friends to send Christmas cards to. I am looking forward to taking the courses and to sending a lot more Christmas cards next year.
As the cookery holidays are based in sunny Spain, this month’s recipe has to be a Spanish favourite – Churros n Choc. Similar to doughnuts, these fellas are great to eat dunked in a mug of ‘real’ drinking chocolate al fresco over there, or huddled around the Aga over here!
63
> flavour xxxxxxx
Ten ‘mystery’ judges spent three months visiting and dining at the city’s best restaurants and eateries nominated by local foodies and visitors to assess the very top institutions in 24 categories. They deliberated on a Testing criteria of excellence from front of house to the quality and provenance of the ingredients, and the breadth and quality of the wine list to the ambience and warmth of their welcome.
They explored every style of eatery from fine dining to breakfast bars, sandwich shops to international cuisine, and family friendly
restaurants to the region’s top food producers. Every winner has earnt their place on Bath’s ‘Best list’.
The awards were presented at a lavish award ceremony at the Guildhall with over 200 guests including restaurateurs, chefs, food producers, sommeliers, and food bloggers and of course flavour. The evening was compered by Angela Mount, wine expert, flavour columnist and presenter who is best known for having her taste buds insured for £10 million by her former employer Somerfield!
Bath RestauRant awaRds celeBRates all that’s gReat on a plateBath celebrated its world status as a top tourist destination with some of the finest restaurants, cafes and bars in the land with the inaugural Bath Good Food Awards 2011.
> flavour xxxxxxx
646464
The Beaujolais - BesT BaTh insTiTuTionThis family-run bistro has attracted a loyal, local clientele since 1972. Their approach is simple – use the freshest market fare, throw in a little French inspiration and serve a great selection of freshly-prepared classic bistro dishes with frequently changed specials to ensure guests get the most from every visit. They receive their produce daily, directly from the local suppliers, while owner Jean Pierre is passionate about his well-researched wine list.
www.beaujolaisbath.co.uk
jika jika - BesT sandwichThis trendy cafe situated in central Bath is a favourite of Bathonians for breakfast and lunch. The sandwich to catch the judges’ eyes was their tremendous steak and caramelised onion on ciabbata. Jika Jika was also voted by the Times Online in their top 10 of best brunches in Britain. Open from 8am to 4.30pm every day Jika Jika is a great place to enjoy a seasonal menu and specialist coffee, eat in or take away.
www.jikajika.co.uk
People’s choice award: demuthsHighly commended: Firehouse Rotisserie
Best Restaurant: casanisHighly commended: Demuths Best chef: sam Moody, Bath PrioryHighly commended: Laurent Couvrieur, Casanis Best Family Friendly: GiraffeHighly commended: Lime Lounge Best Gastropub: Ring o’BellsHighly commended: White Hart Best Romantic table-for-two: dower house at Royal crescentHighly commended: The Circus Best seafood: loch Fyne Best asian: Yen sushiHighly commended: PanAsia Best italian: MartinisHighly commended: Jamie’s ItalianBest indian: RajpootHighly commended: Jamuna Best Vegetarian: demuthsHighly commended: Yak Yeti Yak Best Bath institution: BeaujolaisHighly commended: Demuths
Best newcomer: PanasiaHighly commended: Sam’s Kitchen
Best sunday lunch: chequersHighly commended: Hop Pole Best Front of house: circusHighly commended: Marlborough Tavern Best up & coming: same, same but differentHighly commended: Cafe Lucca Best cafe: lime loungeHighly commended: Sam’s Kitchen Best chain: cote BrasserieHighly commended: Jamie’s Italian Best alfresco: Marlborough TavernHighly commended: Bath Priory sandwich: jika jikaHighly commended - Sam’s Kitchen Best Breakfast: sam’s kitchenHighly commended: Jazz Cafe Best Fine dining wine list: Bath PrioryHighly commended: Olive Tree Best wine list: hudsonsHighly commended: Bistro La Barrique Best independent Food Producer: elements for lifeHighly commended: Bath Pig Co, Wiltshire Chilli Co.
Congratulations to all this year’s winners, and f lavour has picked out some of our favourites to showcase.
And the Winners are:B
ath
Re
sta
uR
an
t aw
aR
ds
65
> flavour xxxxxxx
65
The liMe lounGe - BesT caFeThe Lime Lounge is a place to step in for a bite anytime of the day, from hearty breakfasts, scrummy lunches to exquisite dinners. Located between the Royal Crescent and the Circus, where It mixes fine contemporary food with thoughtful service. As an added bonus, it offers ‘two for one’ on all main courses between 5pm and 7pm Sunday to Thursday.
www.limeloungebath.co.uk
The chequeRs - BesT sundaY lunchThe Chequers is quietly gaining a reputation for serving some of the best food in Bath. Nominated in four categories at the Awards (including Best Gastropub and Best Chef for Head Chef, Leigh Evans) it picked up the award for Best Sunday lunch,– if you’ve ever had the good fortune of trying - you’ll know it was every bit deserved. Located just around the corner from the Circus and Royal Crescent, the pub’s chalk boards display a frequently changing menu of inventive British cooking, all homemade on the premises using the best local produce.
www.thechequersbar.com
MaRTini - BesT iTalian ResTauRnaT in BaThMartini have won the best Italian restaurant in Bath at the Good Food Awards! Deservedly regarded as the best of it's type in the city, at Martini Ristorante run by Nunzio, Luigi and Franco you can expect a warm welcome, delicious food and great wines from Italy. We are now taking Christmas bookings so check out our delicious Christmas set menus at £26.95 for four courses for dinner and £16.95 for three courses for lunch. www.martinirestaurant.co.uk
The RajPooT - BesT indianThe internationally renowned Rajpoot of Bath is an illustrious Indian and Bangladeshi restaurant that has continued to provide high-class food and service for 31 years. With nine different individually thought out rooms, each with their own distinct characters and features, and a capacity of 160 the restaurant creates a maze of refined dining experiences that is affectionately dubbed the ‘Aladdin's cave delights’. The Rajpoot has become a part of the rich culture and vibrancy of the historic Roman city and is truly deserving of its award.
01225 466833/464758www.rajpoot.com
saMe saMe BuT diFFeRenT - BesT uP & coMinGWith its laid-back, continental roots, Same-Same is the ideal place to enjoy home-cooked and hearty British/Mediterranean food, no matter what time of day. Head chef and owner Rob Indge uses only local produce and, with a creative flair, cooks all dishes from scratch. Try his home-cured salmon kedgeree, well worth an award on its own! www.same-same.co.uk
The MaRlBoRouGh TaVeRn - BesT al FResco dininGThe Marlborough Tavern is no stranger to awards, having picked up several national and local gongs for the quality of its food. At the Bath Good Food Awards it was nominated for Best Gastropub, Best front of house team and Best al fresco dining. Having solely picked up awards previously for its food, the team at The Marlborough Tavern were delighted to pick up a highly commended for their front of house team – the Marlborough has a great reputation for its friendly service. And they bagged the title of Best al fresco dining for their gorgeous courtyard garden.
www.marlboroughtavern.com
deMuThs - PeoPle’s choice awaRd BesT VeGeTaRian ResTauRanT“To receive the People's Choice Award was just fantastic,” said Rachel Demuth, owner of Demuths. “It really means our customers like what we are doing. We are passionate about producing delicious food with vegetables at the heart of the dish and to have this recognised in this way is a real boost. Many thanks to our customers for voting for us.
We were also Highly Commended in the Best Restaurant and Best Bath Institution categories. Judges praised the menu devised by our head chef Richard Buckley for its seasonal and locally sourced ingredients and said that all the dishes were well conceived and executed, and served-up by the superb, professional and knowledgeable front of house team. Comments included: “They clearly have a passion for what they do” and “It really is lick smackingly good!”
www.demuths.co.uk
> flavour nick harman
66
There used to be a game in fairgrounds, and maybe there still is, where armed with a fat rubber mallet you had to whack the heads of moles that popped up randomly from the ground. The faster you did it, and the more moles you whacked, the more points you gained. It was fun and exhausting in equal measure.
The restaurant scene is much the same. Restaurants are opening faster and faster and the poor critic whacks away as quickly as he or she can, but more keep coming and coming all the same.
We keep getting told there’s a recession on and yet we have probably never seen so many restaurant openings. Going to restaurants requires disposable income so how, in the worst recession in most lifetimes, are people affording to spend in these new places?
Well I failed O-Level Economics, and I have the certificate to prove it, but it seems to me rather simple. If you are lucky enough to have a job and to be a homeowner, then with the mortgage rate being so low you probably have more spare cash than at any previous time in your life. That money, far from being sensibly salted away for a rainy day, is instead being splurged on eating out and fiddling while Rome burns.
Part of it is also down to how eating out has changed. The new generation of restaurant goers don’t want anything as dull as three courses and coffee, they want constant novelty or else. They want to be always finding their next ‘new favourite
restaurant’ and then, paradoxically, to never darken its door again because they’ve found somewhere else. This is good for them, but not so good for the restaurant’s longevity and earning power.
One ever-clever restaurateur has found a solution. Before the wave breaks on whatever his current restaurant happens to be, he is already planning to open another and at the same time stoking anticipation for that event via social media. That way he’s always staying ahead of the curve, while the restaurants he’s already opened can cheerfully bob along after the initial crowds have moved on.
The secret of that approach is also to not to invest too much in the new restaurant’s fit out. Grab a small place that already has the correct licence in place, but is otherwise unprepossessing. Knock off the plaster, tear down the ceiling, stick in some cheap industrial chic, write a menu on scraps of paper, mixing quality ingredients that don’t need cooking with things that can be mostly grilled, and you’re all set. Then insist on not taking reservations and Kerching! you’ll be the temporary talk of the town and have queues around the block, for a few weeks anyway at least.
Where this leaves restaurants that are in it for the long haul, who want to give employment to professional staff and not resting actors, and who want to grow old in service is anyone’s guess. Mine is that they will hunker down, maintain consistency, and wait for the change that will inevitably
Although gripped by financially trying times, Nick Harman discovers that rather than going ‘down the swanny’, the restaurant scene is more vibrant than ever…
Nick Harman is editor of
www.foodepedia.co.uk
and was shortlisted last
year for The Guild of
Food Writer’s Restaurant
Reviewer of the Year.
What recession?
