fm 4 textile fibers and finishes rw repaired

8/2/2019 Fm 4 Textile Fibers and Finishes Rw Repaired

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Textile Fabrics andFinishes


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Objectives:

Identify most common fabric constructions

Describe main fabric finishing procedures

Recognize importance of quality andperformance standards

Summarize aspects of the textile industry

Explain how fabrics are sold down thechain

Cite textile industry trade information

Tell about future predictions for textiles


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Fabric Design and

Construction Two forms of design

Structural Design

Building in textureor interest duringmanufacturing process

Weaving and knittingmost common

Applied Design Adding color, pattern,

or other features to thestructural design

Printing on fabric


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Fabric Construction

Methods

Weaving

Plain: crosshatchpattern

Twill: diagonal

wale Satin: floating

yarns

Knitting

Weft

Warp

Nonwoven

Fused

Felted

Films


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Fabric Terms

Grain directionyarns run in thefabric

Lengthwise - warp Crosswise - weft

Diagonal - bias

Selvage Finished weft

edge of fabric

SELVAGE

SELVAGE

BIAS

WARP

WEFT

CUT EDGE


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Variations of Weaves

Stripes

Checks

Plaids Jacquard

Pile fabrics

Terry cloth Corduroy

Velvet


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Knitting

Looping yarn together

Made using one yarn Built-in stretch

Wrinkle resistant Does not ravel like

woven material, but mayrun

Weft (filling) stretchesin both directions

Warp stretches onedirection; run-proof


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Nonwoven Fabrics

Compact web offibers (not yarns)

constructed using Moisture

Heat

Chemicals

Friction

Pressure

No grain


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Other Construction Methods

Laces and Nets

Made by knotting

Decorative trim

Braids Decorative trims

Bonded fabrics

Fusible web Interfacing and hem tape

Quilted fabrics


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Fabric Finishing

Converters

Mills that changegreige goods into

finished fabrics Applying colors,

designs, or surfacetreatments

Bleaching

Dyeing

Printing

Finishes


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Dyeing

Fiber Adding color to fibers

before spinning intoyarns

Yarn Placing yarns in dye bath

before making into fabric

Piece

Fabrics dyed afterweaving or knitting

Garment

Dyed after construction


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Printing Adding color, pattern, ordesign to surface offabric

Overall prints

Same across fabric

Directional prints

Specific direction topattern

Plaids Even - same in warp

and weft

Uneven - different in

warp or weft


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Printing

Methods Roller

Applies color

design by roller

Screen

Similar to stenciling

Rotary Screen Applies color

design by cylinder-shaped nylonscreens

Heat Transfer

Design on printedpaper transferred tofabric by heat andpressure

Digital

Computer methoduses ink-jet printing

Flocking

Fibers attached by

patterned glue


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Fabric Finishes

Mechanical finishes affectsize and appearance By heat, moisture,

stretching, singeing

Example: preshrinking Chemical finishes affect

performance Permanent press

Waterproof Water repellent

Flame resistant

Antistatic

Stain and soil resistant


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Standards

Quality

Rate textiles

according tolevels of defects

Performance

Rate textiles forspecific end-usesuitability


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The Textile

Industry Specialized companies

perform stages of thetextile segment of thechain

Technology necessary CAD/CAM

Fashion

Tracking designs,trends, forecasts

Marketing

Planning, pricing,

promoting, distributing


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Selling Finished Fabrics

Staple fabrics Sold each year with

little or no change in

construction Novelty fabrics

Fashion fabrics thatchange with styletrends

Overruns When a mill makes

more fabric than wasordered by customers


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Trade Information

American TextileManufacturers Institute, Inc.(ATMI)

Industry-wide marketing,government relations,trade policies

American Printed FabricsCouncil, Inc. (APFC)

Printing achievements American Association of

Textile Chemists andColorists (AATCC)

Wet processing aspects


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Future of Textiles

Continued U.S. innovation Stay internationally

competitive

Update plants

Continued automation

Flexibility and versatilityfor shorter productionruns of different fabrics

Increased knit production

Textile firms need moresophisticated marketing

techniques


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Do You Know . . .

A finishing term thatends in proof means

complete protection

(as in waterproof). Hand is the term used

for textiles that refersto the way fabrics feel

to the touch. Hand mayapply to drape,softness, firmness,crispness, or elasticity.

fm 4 textile fibers and finishes rw repaired

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