fm september '10 - issue 147
DESCRIPTION
MALTA'S BEST FASHION MAGAZINE WITH 40,000 DISTRIBUTED COPIES IT'S THE LARGEST CIRCULATING FASHION MAGAZINE ON THE ISLAND.TRANSCRIPT
SEPT
EMBE
R 20
10. IS
SUE
147.
WEDGE BOOT €44.99 BROGUE €21.99 FAUX FUR BOOT €39.99 STUDDED COURT €35BUCKLE BOOT €44.99 HEELED LACE UP €39.99
SUB
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AVA
ILA
BIL
ITY
FOOTWEAR FROM
€21.99
NEWLOOK-MALTA.COM
4 –– FM September 2010
September ISSUE 147
COVER CREDITS
Photographer: Tonio Lombardi
W: www.toniolombardi.com
Stylist: Kira Drury
Hair: Michelle at Roots, San Gwann
T: 2745 4164
Make-up: Nicola Powell M: 9986 5369
Model: Francesca
Editor: Anthony P. Bernard
Editorial Consultant: Stanley Borg
Design: Jon Calleja
Printing: Progress Press
All rights reserved. Reproduction in whole or
in part is strictly prohibited without written
permission. Opinions expressed in FM are
not necessary those of the editor or publisher.
All reasonable care is taken to ensure truth
and accuracy, butthe editor and publishers
cannot be held responsible for errors or
omissions in articles, advertising, photographs
or illustrations. Unsolicited manuscripts are
welcome but cannot be returned without a
stamped, self-addressed envelope.
The editor is not responsible for material
submitted for consideration.
For any information regarding editorial,
promotion or advertising contact
Tel: 00 356 2131 8522
00 44 20 3286 6808
Email: [email protected]
FM is published by
MADMEDIA International,
Mezzanine West, Hadfi eld House,
Library Street, Gibraltar
and is distributed free with
THE SUNDAY TIMES
WELCOMETake the weather with you, sang Crowded House. And wear it, we add, because it is the weather that has the right of fi rst refusal over our wardrobe.
When temperatures start dropping, winter becomes
a wonderland of giant knits, stylish trench coats and lovely layering. Spring and summer, on the other hand, take the woolly sting out of winter. The light is fabulous, the sky is a hundred feet deep, and clothes are a free, fun, fabulous acknowledgement to bare feet, sand, colour and ice-cream laughter.
So yes, take the weather with you, except in autumn. Contrary to what Eliot wrote, it is not April that is the cruellest month; rather, it is the dull months when the white of summer and the black of winter overlap in a boring shade of grey. Come autumn, normally quick-thinking women stand for hours in front of their wardrobe, dazed and confused as they try and decide what to wear, and not wear. As for men, something emerges from their wardrobe that should never see the light of day – the pullover.
But never you worry because following our summer break, FM is back and to the rescue, spiking autumnal woes with fun.
In this issue, we give you the cream of this season’s fashion crop – from statement accessories and sharp tailoring to lace, velvet and big knits, your autumn will be a bright one.
We also interview Lucy Wood, Look magazine’s fashion news editor. Wood’s blog has also been recently nominated by Asos.com as one of the top blogs to follow while fashion expert Leon Bailey-Green listed her on his annual Online Fashion 100 for her contribution to online fashion journalism. And she’s just 23 years old.
In this issue, we give singer and songwriter Carrie Haber the famous FM makeover treatment. Not only does the young singer have a great voice, but she also has a beautiful eye for fashion.
There is, of course, more. We tell you how to wear eco-friendly fashion, take you to the shores of Lake Geneva, and help you avoid the pre-winter slump.
Read on and enjoy.
CONTENTS
WIN €300 WITH NEW LOOK!New Look takes styles from catwalk and cutting edge street culture to offer
you wearable, trendy and glamorous footwear. To celebrate the launch of its
amazing new footwear collection, New Look is offering you the chance to win
a season’s worth of shoes. That’s six new pairs of shoes for your A/W essential
collection worth up to €300. To participate just answer the following question
correctly and send your response to [email protected].
The fi rst correct answer wins New Look’s fab prize.
7. You won’t miss this Wood
11. Fashion goes the vie en vert way
14. Carry on handbags
17. Are we finally growing up?
21. What Kira Drury bought this month
22. Autumn delights
41. Fashion goes location scouting
45. Carrie Haber’s makeover
48. Sleeve notes on autumn jackets
51. What Enrique Tabone
knows about style
53. On a Swiss roll
57. Beating the autumn slump
58. Christina Darmanin plays for a draw
Which one of these footwear trends is not an A/W must-have:1. Clogs / 2. Biker boots / 3. Lace up wedge ankle boots / 4. Thigh highs
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September 2010 FM –– 7
INTERVIEW
At just 23, Look magazine’s fashion news editor Lucy Wood has achieved more than most people twice her age have. Currently styling the nation on the UK’s biggest selling women’s fashion
weekly, she has also been nominated for the prestigious PPA Association of UK Magazine and Periodical Publishers News Section Editor of the Year Award in 2008 and contributed to big names such as The Sun, The Daily Mail, Drapers Record and London Metro.
Asos.com has also listed Wood’s Twitter as ‘one to follow’ at Asos Follows Fashion. Working on screen and radio, she has appeared as a fashion expert on BBC television series Mary Queen of Shops and contributed fortnightly fashion slots for a BBC Radio Friday afternoon show.
“I realised that fashion was what I wanted to do back at college,” says Wood. “We were being pushed to start applying for universities and to be completely honest I didn’t know what I wanted to do. I scanned the UCAS website, skimming over all of the courses. They all looked so dull. Then the fashion journalism course popped up at The London College of Fashion and it dawned on me how much I had an interest in magazines and shopping. It was the only course I applied for and I told myself that if I didn’t get in, I wouldn’t go to university, full stop. It’s a good thing they accepted my application. Fashion is something I know about inside out and that is why I didn’t go down the mainstream journalism route. As a tastemaker you need to know what you are writing about.”
“After reading for a degree in fashion journalism at The London College of Fashion, I spent two years at Grazia magazine as their fashion news and features assistant. After that, I took on the position of Look’s fashion news editor. I’ve been here for two and a half years now, managing the fashion news team. That involves styling, writing, shooting, researching and lots of shopping.”
“I also edited style publication Random (www.random-magazine.com) for a year alongside my job at Look and am now running my own fashion blog at www.fashion-editor.com. My blog allows me to open up my notebook to the globe. As a fashion editor I’m always stumbling across fab new labels and my inbox is crammed with the latest new designer items hitting the shops – so why not share all of the extra bits and bobs that don’t make my pages with the rest of the world? I love that I can be completely indulgent and feature all my favourite things.”
“Asos.com recently nominated fashion-editor.com as one of the top blogs to follow via www.asosfollowsfashion.com and online fashion expert Leon Bailey-Green listed me on his annual Online Fashion 100 for my contribution to online fashion journalism.”
“The secret behind all this? I was extremely lucky which, combined with hard work and with my being in the right place at the right time meant I had a bit of a fast track.”
“While studying for my degree I went to Grazia on a two-week work placement and it soon became apparent that the magazine was going to be a great success – I could see the potential for new jobs as the fashion team grew. I asked the fashion coordinator if I could come in each Friday – my one day off university – to help her. I did that for a few weeks and eventually, the fashion editor asked me which direction I wanted to go in and I chose fashion features. The fashion editor then introduced me to the fashion news and features editor and that was it – she didn’t have an assistant so I made myself hers. It was a case of making myself disposable and it worked.”
“At the time it was the last year of my degree and I was working at Grazia full time. I even wrote my dissertation at the Grazia office.”
Kira Drury meets Look magazine’s fashion news editor Lucy Wood, the fastest eye in the fashion west.
8 –– FM September 2010
INTERVIEW
FM
Lucy Wood’s greatest hitsFlying on a private jet to the Grand National horse races
Meeting Christian Louboutin – my knees literally went weak
Sitting opposite Kate Moss at a fashion show – I missed
all of the clothes and couldn’t stop staring at her. She
looks like fun
At a London Fashion Week party at Bungalow 8, I
practically pushed Erin Wasson into a speaker while my
friend grabbed her thigh and told her how skinny they
were. Of course, it was the champagne’s fault
What Lucy said nextWhat’s hot and not for A/W 2010
Invest in the have-to-own aviator jacket – you’ll live in it
and it’ll end up paying for itself. And don’t forget to pop
the collar so that it’s ear-grazing. Shearling-lined clog
boots are comfy and cosy for bitter mornings – layer
them over woolly socks and top with a cape jacket.
Another must item is a vintage-look tan leather bag and
belt. Wear together for a combo that will overhaul and tidy
up any frock, whether it’s from the supermarket rails or a
designer boutique.
“My editor Melanie Rickey taught me everything I know about fashion journalism and for that I owe her the world. By the time I graduated, my current position had come up – I applied and got it. It was just like a dream – a degree and a job as Look’s fashion news editor overnight. If you have a good eye and the ability to edit rails and rails of great clothes down to about ten pieces a page, you can do it. Oh, and I know the dictionary inside out.”
“You also need to work hard. Even a normal day is hectic. First thing every morning, I make a cuppa and read all the papers. Next, I go through all the new paparazzi pictures that have come in overnight and spot emerging trends. As e-mails start coming in, I plan what the team will be working on for the day and delegate pages. Then it’s onto calling in product, styling up pages, press appointments and writing articles. If I’m lucky I’ll squeeze in some lunch somewhere along the way.”
“Of course, there are ups and downs. The best part of my job is that every day is a shopping day. Topshop’s 40 per cent discount card comes in handy here. There are also bags of free beauty products – I haven’t bought shampoo for years. Still, my biggest achievement yet is becoming an editor at 21. This year’s The Online Fashion Agency named me as one of the 100 most influential people in online fashion, which was a real buzz.”
“The downside to my job is that I’m never going to become rich unless I achieve Gok Wan’s level of fame. And there’s no eye candy either – the industry is 80 per cent female.”
Beauty and the bestMassimo Dutti has reunited top models Edita Vilkeviciute and David Gandy who together, brought to fore their mesmerising beauty for Massimo Dutti’s latest fashion shoot for the brand’s A/W 2010 collection. Massimo Dutti also commissioned renowned Paola Kudacki who underscored the brand’s casual elegance.
This year’s A/W collection is available at Massimo Dutti at The Point, Tigné Point, Sliema.
Photo by Alistair Guy
And the awardgoes to…Carpisa has awarded Carpisa Malta as the best retailer out of all 560 Carpisa outlets around the world. Carpisa Malta was the fi rst outlet to open outside of Italy and was successful in introducing the brand to Malta. Thanks to constant hard work and outstanding performance in the fi ve years since its opening, the Carpisa Malta outlet had the biggest increase in sales compared to the previous year. In a few months, another Carpisa outlet will be opened in Malta’s prime high street.
www.massimodutti.comwwwww .maassimododuttutti.comm
NEW AUTUMN / WINTER COLLECTION
NOW AVAILABLEAT MASSIMO DUTTI STORE,
THE POINT, SLIEMA
September 2010 FM –– 11
ECO FASHION
We all know the feeling – waking up zombifi ed in the early hours of
the morning, groping our way to the bathroom, stumbling over a
pair of vagabond shoes, and fi nally rummaging through the wardrobe
for something decent to wear for the long day ahead. Now let me
ask you a question. Have you ever stopped to consider, in those dark
and dreary moments, whether those jeans that are going to hug you
throughout the day are eco-friendly or not? Probably not – we usually
don’t even have time to question whether what we’re about to wear is
from last season or this one.
But we need to start asking such questions as the world of fashion
is going green. And by that I don’t mean that we should all hit the
stores for a green maxi dress and a pair of verdant heels to match.
Rather, it’s the eco quality that is strutting its stuff down the catwalk.
Taking care of the environment is not simply about the infamous
three R’s: reducing, reusing and recycling. There is a whole wide world
beyond the confi nes of our cosy homes and that whole wide world is
where our clothes come from, passing through countless processes
before fi nding itself nice and pretty-looking in a shop near you. It is
this process which we least care about and yet, it is most vital for
awareness of what truly makes fashion eco-friendly or not.
The Sustainable Technology Education Project identifi es eco-
fashion as “clothes that take into account the environment, the health
of consumers and the working conditions of people in the fashion
industry”. No one is asking us to do anything silly, so we can wipe
away the thought of leaves that must be passing through our minds.
In fact, top designers from all around the world are leaving their mark
on what is to become a wholly guilt-free process of making clothes.
Moreover, their fashion is just as stylish and chic as ever. In the
meantime, the BBC has also decided to take action and has launched
an online eco-fashion magazine called Thread with tips on how one
can be both stylish and sustainable.
This autumn, go a fashionable shadeof eco green, says Daniela Brockdorff.
La vie en verte
Hair todayWhatever your hair type, there’s a specially designed hair care regime by The Body Shop to unveil the full beauty of your hair. Dry, damaged locks can be revived with the Moisture products, which restore the hair’s softness without weighing it down. For glossy head-turning, indulge in the Shine regime, which delivers incredible light-refl ecting shine. Colour treated hair can retain its vibrancy with the help of the Radiance range, while the Balance products reduce excess oil and refresh the hair.
12 –– FM September 2010
FM
It certainly is time for all the fashion-lovers
out there to get to know what actually goes into
the making of the items of clothing that inhabit
our wardrobes. Perhaps, little did we know
that clothes are usually made by those living
in developing countries, people who spend
about 18 hours a day working ceaselessly in
a sweatshop. One cannot fail to mention the
pesticides that farmers use when growing
fabrics, with cotton being the crop which uses
the most pesticides.
Pesticides are not only a serious threat for the
environment but also for all of us as they often
end up in the food we eat. Shockingly enough,
towards the end of last century, the World Health
Organisation estimated an overwhelming annual
fi gure of 3 million poisonings and 20,000 deaths
caused by pesticides. Furthermore, the chemicals
used to bleach and colour textiles go hand in
hand with these pesticides to destroy the world
we live in.
Opting for organic cotton seems to be the
answer and 18 countries have already stopped
the use of pesticides in favour of growing
organically. Statistics show that even though
crop yields fall initially when choosing the
greener option, eventually organic production
proves to be benefi cial both for farmers and for
the environment.
Other options include the use of recycled
textiles and ensuring fair trade. More importantly,
a system of eco-labelling is being considered
to make sure that the buyers are fully informed
of their purchase. The maxim that ignorance is
bliss certainly does not apply here. Or rather,
unwittingly contributing to our Earth’s downfall is
not my idea of bliss.
Now you might say that practically most of us
are not those farmers dumping pesticides on the
face of the earth or businessmen in suits choosing
sweatshops to cut costs. Neither are we in a
position to change the world simply by clicking our
fi ngers. Yet we cannot deny the fact that we live on
this planet and clothes are a fundamental part of
our daily lives. So what can our humble selves do?
The online magazine Thread gives some
practical guidelines, including not feeding your
wardrobe any clothing that you would probably
end up throwing away after a few months or so.
This is what Thread calls “ethical luxury”. Along
with the occasional fashion item that is in vogue
at the moment, make sure to buy clothes that
are classics and that will therefore last longer.
Re-vamp what you consider a soon-to-be-
joining-the-bin item. Don’t just throw things
away – sometimes, adding a belt, changing
some old-fashioned buttons or shortening a
hemline might extend an item’s shelf-life. True,
we might not have the time for such jobs but
creating something for yourself may prove to be
quite rewarding.
And when you can’t possibly imagine what
you can ever do with that piece of clothing
haunting your closet, don’t just send it off to join
the endless heaps of rubbish in the landfi lls (we
all know what a nightmare these landfi lls are).
Instead call up some friends or family members,
invite them over to rummage through your
wardrobe and let them choose whatever they
want. It could actually be quite fun – after all,
your trash might be someone else’s treasure.
Last but not least, make sure you watch out
for websites that sell eco-friendly clothing or
rails in stores that are specifi cally designated for
sustainable clothing.
You cannot ignore the world you live in.
So it might be worth it to give yourself a touch
of green.
ECO FASHION
Tangle Teezer Cortex Ltd. has just launched a new brush aimed especially for young princesses. This de-tangler is like the original Tangle Teezer but also includes a place to store and keep hairclips and pretty ribbons safe. Available from hairdressers or online atwww.cortexltd.com
Play onThe new Pedigree Toyshops megastore will be launched this month. The new megastore covers 500 square metres of open space and will stock your favourite toys and games. This one convenient megastore includes parking facilities and on site restroom facilities for kids, including nappy changing. Pedigree Toyshops will soon unveil a season of fun and exciting pre-Christmas activities. Visit the new megastore on the Birkirkara bypass, 200 metres ahead of Mater Dei hospital.
Mini takes it to the maxThe new Mini Countryman was launched last week at Numero Uno, taking the hallmark driving fun of the brand to a new level. This is the fi rst Mini to come with four doors and a large tailgate as well as a versatile interior off ering space for up to fi ve people. It is the fi rst Mini which can be ordered as an option with all-wheel drive. With these features, in addition to the Countryman’s raised seating position
and optimised ride comfort, the world’s only premium vehicle of its kind crosses the boundaries of urban mobility to take the trademark Mini feeling into new dimensions. For more information contact Muscats Motors Ltd. on Tel: 2326 4505 or [email protected].
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14 –– FM September 2010
FASHION
Carry on
Debenhams blue bow
clutch - €13.00
Carpisa black bow
clutch - €15.90
Accessorize sequin
British fl ag - €49.00
New Look grey
rose clutch - €10.00
things* brown rose
clutch - €9.00
Debenhams green
satin clutch - €26.00
French Connection sequin
with design - €48.30
Accessorize silver
beaded clutch - €46.00
Add a little glam to your handbag collection with a chic clutch – the perfect call to arm candy.
Photographer - Tonio Lombardi www.toniolombardi.comStyling - Kira Drury
things* bro
ch - €
to arm
Photographer - Twww.toniolombardi.coStyling - Kira Drury
thi
clutch
New Look sequin
fl oral clutch - €9.00
Carpisa satin
wristlet - €17.90
MEXX.COM
ST.JULIANS
VALLETTAMOSTA
September 2010 FM –– 17
CONFESSIONS
A fashion model’s career is usually over in a
fl ash. For many, many years, successful
models had to be so young and skinny that
most looked liked they fell off the back of a
school van and onto the catwalk. However,
in recent years, there has been a visible shift.
Somehow, underage, underfed, dried-up stick
insects stopped being the only type that the
fashion industry would consider, and slowly we
started seeing more and more 40- to 50-year-old
attractive women boldly representing big cosmetic
and fashion brands.
A number of former models who had long
thought that their career days were over, are
now being called back and strongly sought out
to get back on to the catwalk and in front of the
cameras. They had assumed that their modelling
days were over, and left the profession to pursue
alternative careers or to have families, and
now, they are returning to an industry that once
deemed them too old. And they can hardly keep
up with the bookings.
Just a few days before her 48th birthday,
Sharon Stone was signed up for Christian Dior’s
new campaign. As expected, at 48, Stone had
formed a fi rm opinion about the situation in
Tibet, and soon enough she had to be dropped
from all of Dior’s Chinese advertisements for
controversial comments that she passed during
the Cannes Film Festival. Miuccia Prada then
signed up Kim Basinger, 52, for her campaign
while Versace contracted drop dead gorgeous,
52-year-old diva, Madonna. British model Angie
Hill, who was very popular in the 1980s, and
one of Europe’s highest paid models, had left
the modelling world at the age of 24. She then
joined her husband’s fashion design fi rm and
went on to have two children. 18 years later, at
the age of 42, she is being called back and has
signed a major contract with Garnier.
Industry experts think that this newfound
preference for older models is a result of
audiences being fed up of seeing waif-like girls,
barely of age, showcasing clothes that most
people would look horrible in. They now
believe that audiences want to see something
more realistic.
In recent years, Dove applied this theory, taking
it to a particular extreme. They used 95-year-old
Irene Sinclair in their Campaign for Real Beauty.
The advert candidly posed the question: “Wrinkled
or wonderful?” and it was followed by a long
series of ads featuring Merlin Glozier, 45, asking
the question: “Grey or gorgeous?”
What does the rise of the older model say about our age, asks Alison Bezzina.
ARE WE FINALLY GROWING UP?
“The more legal and material hindrances women have broken through, the more strictly, heavily, and cruelly, images of female beauty have come to weigh upon us... During the past decade, women breached the power structure; meanwhile, eating disorders rose exponentially and cosmetic surgery became the fastest-growing specialty... and 33,000 American women told researchers that they would rather lose 10 to 15 pounds than achieve any other goal...
More women have more money and power and scope and legal recognition than we have ever had before; but in terms of how we feel about ourselves physically, may actually be worse off than our unliberated grandmothers.” The Beauty Myth, 1991, Naomi Wolf.
18 –– FM September 2010
CONFESSIONS
But personally I wonder – is this sudden
demand for older, mature models really
aimed at satisfying the audience’s need
for more realistic role models? Or have
designers woken up to the realisation that
it’s this age group’s spending power that
keeps luxury designers and cosmetic brands
in business? Have they fi nally realised that
their target customer is not a 16-year-old
who eats once a week, but is more likely to
be a middle-aged woman with hard-earned
disposable cash? Has it fi nally sunk in that
it is more likely for the same older women to
part with her spare income if she identifi es
with the images that she’s presented with?
In 2006 Marks and Spencer also tested
this approach when the mainstream fashion
chain revived Twiggy, four decades after she
was fi rst discovered in 1966. They used her
across all media and within 13 weeks M&S
sales rose by 2.9 per cent, while the share
price rose by 50 per cent. As famous and
desired as she was, Twiggy had retired at
the age of 20, and now, four decades down
the line, she is back in high demand and has
even appeared as a judge on the hit reality
TV show, America’s Next Top Model.
A really good nightA good night’s sleep rests and restores our body and mind. For women, periods should not stop them from having a good night’s sleep. During the menstrual cycle, female hormones not only regulate reproductive tissue function but also exert infl uence on sleep. Always Ultra Night has been specifi cally developed to ensure women feel comfortable while sleeping. With Always Ultra Night, every woman can have a good night’s sleep and wake up feeling dry and light.
The result? We are now surrounded by images of preternaturally young, strangely plasticised,
airbrushed, photo-shopped, digitally and surgically enhanced images of older women. The saddest
part is that celebrities are not the only ones falling victims to the plastic-youth look, because with
editors and designers overdoing it with these images, we’re all starting to think that we’re the only
unlucky ones who did not apply enough sun protection during our youth, who never chose the right
products to suit our skin, and who never invested enough in our appearance.
In the past, mature women used to look at magazines and rationalise that the pictures in front of
them were of much younger women, or rather girls, and therefore incomparable, but with today’s
trend of using older models, there’s no such excuse that we can cling to.
It is no wonder therefore that almost two decades after Naomi Wolf wrote The Beauty Myth, 99.9
per cent of us women still think that our thighs are too big, our breasts are too small, and that our
clothes are just all wrong, so off we go, like we did back then, to purchase whatever these models
happen to be endorsing, thus keeping the fashion industry thriving and well in business. FM
Have they fi nally realised that their target customer is not a 16-year-old who eats once a week, but is more likely to be a middle-aged woman with hard-earned disposable cash?
September 2010 FM –– 21
SHOPPING
I’ve been trying to be good with my money – save,
save, save. So a work trip to London doesn’t bode
well. I encounter my fi rst hurdle at a vintage market
on Brick Lane, where I spot a leather pencil skirt (1). I
have to grab it. Real leather for £20 – a bargain.
While whizzing down Oxford Street I shriek to a pit-
stop at the legendary Primark and snap up a 1970s
look maxi dress (2), skull vest (3) (from the boy’s
section) and cute cream brogues (4), a steal at just £35 for the lot.
It’s off to Topshop next – one pair of fl oral jeans (5), a baby-doll dress (6)
and a trench coat (7) later, I make a hasty exit.
Back in Malta I accompany my boyfriend on a shopping spree while
repeating the mantra, over and over, ‘I shall not shop.’ I fail at the fi rst
hurdle when I spot a stripie t-shirt (8) at Pull & Bear. I fi nd consolation by
telling myself that I’ll wear it season after season – after all, stripes never
go out of fashion. However, the truth is that I don’t really need another
one – I’ve already got six but shhh, don’t tell anyone. I forget my usual
shades at home, so I buy a pair (9) from my shop, The Doll’s House.
They’re shiny and red and I love them. And anyway it doesn’t count – I’m
putting money back into the business. Any excuse will do.
FM stylist Kira Drury is trying to stick to her budget. But on a trip to London,
she goes from bad to purse.
putting money back intto the business. Any excuse will do.to th
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22 –– FM September 2010
AUTUMN DELIGHTS It’s the season of love – FM is all heartbeats, shoots and autumn leaves.
Just three months ago, we were furrowing our sun kissed brows, not with worry mind you,
but in deep thought on how we would spend our summer holidays. Parties and barbecues, long-haul holidays and quick trips to the continent – the possibilities of summer just stretched and yawned in front of us, seemingly endless.
And now here we are, putting away our shorts in daring neons and bracing ourselves for the winter cold. And we’re not happy bunnies.
The only thing that will cheer us up is that this autumn, fashion does not refl ect the threatening clouds and absence of sunlight. And it’s not the brown, muddy puddles that provide inspiration but rather, the bleached, red leaves of the season.
This autumn, fashion trends are fun. Purple, in electric and plum shades, continues to be a staple colour, as do blood and fl ame red as well as fl esh tones. Romance is also high on the agenda – make sure you invest wisely in a small, black number that plays hide and seek with lace. Animal prints also continue roaring, with leopard print coats and zebra print dresses.
Silhouettes are either sharp or a celebration of femininity, as seen on the Marc Jacobs and Louis Vuitton catwalks. There is also a nod at wartime fashion and at fun items like jumpsuits in cobalt blue and black velvet.
Textures also come out to play this season – luxurious fabrics are embellished with fur elements and jewels, embroidered, draped and pleated. Diff erent textures also create a patchwork of fur, sheepskin, suede and knits.
So yes, the holidays might be over, but that doesn’t mean you should stop having funwith fashion.
Fur enoughTo continue on the animal trend, this season, fur is used in detailing, especially on jackets, satchels, handbags, shoes and accessories. Fox fur looks especially good on mini skirts, while lamb adds a cute element to your cuff s.
Present clawsAnimal prints are once again roaring down the catwalk. This autumn, designers took a walk on the wild side, with leopard spots, tiger and zebra stripes, and snakeskin. While some, like Lanvin, opted for the full on look, Emilio Pucci and Dolce & Gabbana used animal prints as details to match sequined skinny trousers and one-shoulder dresses.
Used as subtle accessories and on tights, animal prints add a dangerous yet classy element to long, black evening gowns.
Blu
mar
ine
Cos
tum
e N
atio
nal
Monsoon leopard clutch - €43
Monsoon feather
clutch - €54
TRENDS Womenof the clothThis season, diff erent fabrics and textures create a multi-layered, complex, stylish trend. Velvet is a statement piece in itself, whether it comes in the shape of a classic black dress or a rich, elegant gown. Silks make for stunning party dresses while feathers and furs add layers to an outfi t.
Fabrics also fi nd comfort in simplicity. The simplest, yet hottest, item this autumn – the cape – changes personality according to fabric. A knitted cape spells home in front of a crackling fi re while a grey, cashmere one is an elegant alternative to a coat.
Em
ilio
Pucc
i
T h e P o i n t S h o p p i n g M a l l , T i g n é P o i n t
w w w . d e b e n h a m s . c o m . m t
Designis at the
of everything we doHEART
24 –– FM September 2010
TRENDS
The war isn’t overThis season, it’s military, but not as we know it. The military trend takes cue from 20th century uniforms – instead of the pomp of epaulettes and medals, the trend is more subtle with lined boots, draped jersey dresses and cashmere dresses. It’s utilitarian meets comfort and style. And it’s playful, rather than deadly.
Now you see itOnce again, fashion is in love with lace. Apart from classic black lace outfi ts, cute day dresses and sensual see-through gowns, this season also mixes lace with animal prints and loud colours. For their pre-fall collection, Dolce & Gabbana paired their lace creations with neon green, pink and orange separates.
Erd
em
Miu
Miu
Roc
has
Car
olin
e C
harl
es
Mar
ni
Post-war silhouettesThis autumn, fashion is nostalgic for the 1950s and 60s, the Mad Men days when men smoked all day and women had the kind of cleavage you could get lost in. Louis Vuitton paraded A-line mid-calf skirts and dresses nipped at the waist. Full-length gowns also hark to the swinging, big band ballrooms while the Ivy League is represented by blanket capes, fox vests, high tube socks and tweed skirt suits. This season, back in time suits us just fi ne.
26 –– FM September 2010
TRENDS
Wearing the trousersSharp tailoring is the name of this season’s fashion game. Pencil skirts make for the sleekest and most sculptured of silhouettes while 1970s-inspired fl ares will instantly transform you into a Charlie’s Angel. Trench coats give your shoulders a smart makeover, while attracting the looker’s gaze towards your slim, belted waist.
Sharp tailoring comes of age in this autumn’s elegant trousers. Easy to wear, trousers are nonetheless fl attering, making a statement without giving you an overkill of power.
Bal
mai
n
Monsoon Katy print
tea dress - €95.00
Monsoon Fion Fairisle
cardigan - €115
The winner takes it all French Connection in association with Lufthansa was proud to announce the winner of their Fashion Fabulous trip to New York along with a $500 shopping spree in French Connection’s store in Soho. The happy winner, Daniela Grech, was presented her fl ight ticket at French Connection’s store in Baystreet by Lufthansa General Manager Mr. Heydlauf and VF Group Operations Manager Daniel Camilleri.
Love in acold climateIt might be easier to fall in love in the summer months. But this autumn, fairy tales come true with a line-up of dreamy fabrics, including velvet, lace, fur, silks and sheer, which all celebrate the beauty of femininity in love.
The autumn palette also throbs with love: deep reds, soft greys, whites and clarets all create a baroque, love vibe. It’s not tragic love, of course, because ruffl es and wide 1940s- and 50s-inspired skirts make this romance a pretty, playful one. The Dior catwalk presented layers of ruffl es while Oscar de la Renta told a fairy tale in crimson, pink and turquoise.
Cer
ruti
MDINA ROAD, ZEBBUG - TEL: 2146 7273 - MON-SAT: 9 AM - 8 PM
FOR MEN & WOMEN
FIND US ON
28 –– FM September 2010
TEAR
WEAR
Mumford & Sons – they’re
young and handsome. And
their music will make your day.
The beautiful game makes a
welcome return.
Lady Gaga makes it to the
cover of Vanity Fair.
Fashion icon.
THE WHO, WHAT, WHY, WEAR OF THE NET
diaryofavintagegirl.comThe life and times of a 1940s enthusiast.
lefashionimage.blogspot.comNo words – just a happy snap collection.
fashionbananas.comA blog about fashion, beauty and love.
FASHIONBAROMETER
13-year-old Lourdes designs
a fashion collection with mum
Madonna. Talk about getting a
head start.
Kate Moss hires exorcist to rid
her London home of evil spirits.
Away.
One day it’s too hot, the other
it’s too cold. Can’t the weather
decide?
BLOGWATCH
TRENDS
Spinning yarnsOne of the perks of the cold weather is that we get to wear big knits that hug and cuddle us like no man would. But apart from their huggy bear quality, knits are also a smart, casual alternative. This season’s alpine trend presents chunky knits in warm shades – team with leather boots and fl owing skirts for maximum eff ect.
Back to schoolwith a New LookNew Look is putting fashion fi rmly back on the school timetable by giving Sixth Form and University students 10% off each transaction by showing a valid SMART card when they make a purchase. Terms and conditions apply. Join New Look Malta on Facebook for exclusive off ers, fashion tips, competitions and more.
NLT10168180
WORTH GOING
FOR...
FASHION
One step furtherBata’s A/W 2010 collection is characterised by elegance and style for the city look with a bit of glam. The New Collection gives a dynamic and decisive look to all those who wear it, courtesy of the latest trends of colours and mixed materials. The Bata Collection is exclusively available from Old Theatre Street Valletta, The Point Shopping Complex Sliema and The Duke Shopping Complex Gozo.
Dak
s
From catwalk to floorwalk
/KEY TREND MODETTES
Modettes takes inspiration from the youthfulness of the 1960’s Mods. Featuring simplistic silhouettes in boyish jackets, boxy tees, super skinny jeans and long line cardigans to create a masculine feel. Sexy, feminine injections come from tight pencil skirts, micro kilts and mini shift dresses. Outerwear is key to this story, including bomber jackets, swing coats and capes at 3/4 lengths with hoods.
The Look:
Tees are a sexy key look for the Modettes story, in shapes from long and fitted to boxy and square. Key features on tees include dropped shoulders, patch pockets, rolled up sleeves and dropped hems. Bold, pretty colours, gypsy florals and prints are also key to the look.
Bomber
jacket,
C32.50
Offer starts 18th January 2009.
EA6788_Students_20%Off_30x20-2927.indd 1
On presentation of a valid student card
15%
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Other conditions may apply.
Dark & biker
influenced
denim, C29
Stars &
Stripe
T-Shirt,
C16.50
Main StreetPAOLA
The PlazaSLIEMA
Republic StreetVALLETTA
The Great Value Fashion Store
ArkadiaGOZO
The boyfriend trend
of dressing continues.
Shapeless and oversized
pieces can be worn
slouchy to create an
urban, relaxed feel. In
contrast, the Modettes
story can help create a
sexy feminine appearance
by cinching in at the waist
to create a sassy hourglass
shape.
The Styling:
A base colour palette of black, charcoal and grey and navy,
combined with oxblood, red, khaki, nude and white helps
create a retro 1960’s colour palette heavily influenced by
the youthfulness of the Mods of that time.
The Colours:
Fashion
sweats,
C19.50
Snake print
bag with
metallic trim,
C24.50
Wansteadlace boots, C40.50
Striped jumper dress, C26
Embellished
pumps, C16.50
Checks featured
bomber jackets, C45
Leatherette biker
jacket, C51.50
Rock Tees,
C22.50
skinny
embellished
jeans,
C32.50
Photography: Tonio Lombardi
www.toniolombardi.com
Styling: Kira Drury
Hair: Michelle at Roots T: 2745 4164
Make-up: Nicola Powell M: 9986 5369
Model: - Francesca
Stay stylish in these classic wardrobe must-haves
TIME OF YOUR LIFE
Orsay skinny jeans - €34.90
Orsay black vest - €5.95
Bowler hat, stylist’s own
The Doll’s House chunky necklace - €25.00
Opposite
Tally Weijl black dress - €19.95
34 –– FM September 2010
French Connection grey dress - €150.00
Orsay leggings - €12.95
Opposite
Orsay grey vest - €5.95
Peacocks denim shorts - €20.95
New Look waistcoat - €39.00
Accessorize necklace - €14.90
Debenhams tights - €6.00
Mexx boots - €59.95
36 –– FM September 2010
Esprit stripe t-shirt - €19.95
New Look dungaree shorts - €29.00
Opposite
New Look dress - €37.99
Mango jacket - €159.00
Specs, stylist’s own
38 –– FM September 2010
New Look mac jacket - €44.95
Mango leather gloves - €29.90
Debenhams tights - €6.00
Opposite
The Doll’s House bow necklace - €15.00
Piazza Italia white shirt - €20.99
New Look black skirt - €19.00
The Doll’s House ring - €10.00
September 2010 FM –– 41
FASHION
The business aspect of fashion has
always been at a mediocre level in Malta,
barely scraping by as an industry and very
misunderstood by the general public. Even joining
the EU has not assisted the presence of Malta
within the European fashion industry.
Malta is at a ripe stage to be introduced to
Europe’s fashion industry.
Apart from the incredible talent base of models,
photographers, make-up artists, stylists and
fashion designers that Malta has to offer, the
natural beauty of the island provides the perfect
backdrops for fashion shoots.
So why has it taken so long for these elements
to be properly marketed to the worldwide
industry? Why has the island never drawn much
international attention to its fashion sector?
One local company that is fi nally making this
happen on the island is InFashion Malta, a well
established, three director agency representing all
aspects of Maltese fashion talent.
“InFashion was set up six years ago as a
modelling agency only. Now we represent models,
make-up artists, photographers, stylists and
fashion labels. We try to be a bit different than the
average talent agency and we promote each other
as a collective,” says Kristoff Zammit Ciantar, one
of the directors.
“We also like to promote our talent abroad
more than locally. The local market still knows we
are here and we get regular work through them,
but our resources and our concentration go on
getting our talent placed abroad or getting media
from around Europe to shoot here”, adds Shideh
Olafsson, the newest of the three directors.
This is evident in the agency’s work as they held
their fi rst edition of the Malta In Fashion event on
Sunday, August 29 at Marrakech in Rabat. The
night was held in two parts – the VIP showcase
which was more like a casting for all of their
models and a seven-label fashion show to the
public later in the evening. The night also featured
some respected names from the European fashion
industry that were fl own over especially for the
occasion.
“We got to the point where we had to think
productively about how to showcase all aspects
of Malta and its fashion talent. So we thought of
a way of getting these people to the island to see
fi rst hand what we had to offer,” says Antonella
Vella of InFashion.
The guests included journalists, TV personalities,
advertising agents and Geoff Cox from Top
Model, one of the most recognisable fashion and
modelling industry brands in the UK which has
expanded with a worldwide division in 2010 along
with a recently launched TV Channel – Top Model TV.
Location, location, location
InFashion Malta is putting the island on the
fashion map, says Melanie Fielding.
Photos by David Mansfi eld.
Left to right - InFashion’s Antonella Vella, model Kristen, InFashion’s Shideh Olafsson, UK’s Geoff Cox and Amy Symons, model Leah and InFashion’s Kristoff Zammit Ciantar
Model Audrienne walking for new Maltese label Celeste
Models Trinity and Ilona backstage in Fat Gold
MUA Karen Schembri Grima and model Leah backstage
Models Antonella and Kim walking for Charles and Ron
Model Kurt during Malta In Fashion showcase
Model Marion walking for Benetton
Geoff Cox and Amy Symons choosing models for auditions
42 –– FM September 2010
FM was fortunate enough to chat to Cox
about his visit to the island.
“Malta makes for a stunning backdrop,”
said Cox. “I have been very fortunate to
have had a chance to see most of the
islands’ feature areas and have already
considered a number of options for
possible future shoots, including one during
this particular stay with two Maltese models
signed to InFashion Malta.”
As for the Malta In Fashion event, Cox
said that “It was a great showcase for the
local talent and I was very impressed with
the organisation. I look forward to seeing
the show grow and am proud to have
been part of such a pioneering venture.
Moreover, I have made some great contacts
and hope to have some of the models I’ve
seen working in London.”
Mr Cox also extended his trip to Malta by
four days to conduct more auditions
and castings.
“We love outside infl uence on our talent,”
says Shideh Olafsson. “We love hearing
what they can do better and how they can
improve. Sometimes you get stuck in your
own way if you don’t let others guide you.
And to be honest, our models are strong
and they love the international feedback
and they take it on board beautifully.”
The agency is now riding the successful
wave that this event created – two of
their models confi rmed to walk at London
Fashion Week in September this year,
while they have also secured some very
good business from the other attendees.
Not only has this been good exposure for
the models, photographers and make up
artists, but it has also put Maltese fashion
labels such as Fat Gold, Celeste, Erin-Coal
and Charles & Ron in front of the right
people to help launch them in Europe.
“Push It magazine from the UK is
returning at the end of the month to do
a full shoot on the island. They have
booked our models, photographer, stylist
and make-up artist after meeting them at
the event and seeing their work. This is
amazing news for us. Insignia magazine
from Russia has also shown interest in
coming back to the island, this time for a
cover story,” says Kristoff Zammit Ciantar.
Another of the agency’s VIP guests was
Marcellous L Jones, the fashionably famous
TV host of Paris show, The Fashion Insider
which has now expanded into a website
and a published magazine. The TV crew
walked around the event and interviewed
some key players in the island’s industry
and plan to run a full show on the event in
the next few months.
“We are very happy with the result of
our event. It took months to plan and
organise but with the help of some great
sponsors onboard, we hope to do this at
least annually. If nothing else, it helps put
this little island on the map in the European
fashion industry and gives hope to up and
coming models and designers that once
they start in this fi eld, only the sky is the
limit for them,” concludes Shideh Olafsson.
FASHION
FM
Fashion Insider TV interview with Shideh Olafsson and Kristoff Zammit Ciantar of InFashion
TVM conducting interview with InFashion Kristoff Zammit Ciantar and Geoff Cox
Fat Gold designersJon Calleja and Ken Chircop
Model Marion walking for Benetton
Pavli Medvevova, InFashion show stylist
Model Carl walking for Tommy Hilfi ger
Model Maria and Erin-Coal designer Caroline Vassallo
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Hair: Andrew Barton & Racoon Artistic Team, Make-up: Ruby Hammer, Photography: Elise Du Montet, Styling: Cassie Steer
September 2010 FM –– 45
MAKEOVER
out ofthe closet
Every month, stylist Luke Engerer and his makeover team will visit one lucky reader, rummage through her wardrobe and give her a restyle. It’s all treats but no tricks as Luke & Co. only use your own clothes to create a new style for you.
I was really excited to work with Carrie. I had caught her
performance at Teatru Unplugged last year and loved her quirky,
theatrical style of music and clothes. I just knew that Carrie’s
makeover would be lots of fun.
Carrie is currently living in London, so we meet up with her
while she is in Malta. Carrie is a very sociable, fun loving girl –
she greets us wearing olive green shorts, an olive green tube top
with an orange fl ower design, and her Cheeky Monkey badge.
I had been warned that she only had a few pieces with her as
she was only visiting for a few days but I was still confi dent that
we would fi nd the right outfi t. Carrie had laid out all the clothes
she had with her in preparation for my visit. I had a quick scan
and went straight for the black tulle ballerina skirt – I felt it really
embodied Carrie’s look. Then I came across a corset-like red and
black lace-up top, and the rest is style history.
BEFORE
Make-upMelanie Gregory, M: 7772 8043
“I first used a light foundation base complimented and a shimmery translucent powder. Then I highlighted Carrie’s cheekbones and used a bright pink blush on her cheeks. On her eyes I used a shimmer eye-shadow in sparkly white colour and a glossy black liner followed by a pair of glam faux lashes. To finish off the look I gave Carrie cupid lips to match herfun and quirky personality.”
ABOUT A GIRL
THE
STYLE COUNCIL
FM’s makeover team is
made up of stylist Luke
Engerer, photographer
Tonio Lombardi, make-up
artist Melanie Gregory and
hairdresser Michelle
Galea at Roots
Hair Salon.
Hair Michelle Galea at Roots Hair Salon.
T: 2745 4164, M: 9945 4164
“Carrie already has a really cool cut and colour so it was not difficult to get it looking super cool. I first washed and conditioned her hair. Then I applied some leave-in conditioner for added moisture, and volumising mousse and curl cream to give definition to Carrie’s curls. I diffused her hair and used volumising dust for some extra boost. Then I used some hair spray for hold and finished off with some shine and hold spray.”
Carrie Haber, singer and songwriter.
People see me as a pretty bold
character with a few loose nuts. I
blame that on my hair colour and
expressive gestures.
What you see is not the real me – my
stage persona is slightly quirkier and
quite theatrical. I achieve this simply by
setting my emotions free.
I’m a Leo, which means that behind
my achievements there is a lot of hard
work. Some people think that it’s luck
all the way, but I believe that you create
your own luck.
Wanting to stand out is in my nature.
And I fi nd it secretly entertaining to see
people’s different reactions to me.
I love vintage clothes. I just wish I
was born in the 1940s or 50s so I could
wear those gorgeous frocks. Many
have described my style as a meet-
in-the-middle between slightly old
fashioned and modern touches.
My favourite physical feature is my
hair. The same cannot be said for my
thighs though.
I love my little hats. I think they make
an outfi t that much more unique –
they’re the cherry on the fashion cake.
My beauty routine is quite simple. I
walk a lot – I feel that it revives me. And
every now and then, I enjoy a nice bath
while my facemask dries. It’s bliss.
If I’m in a hurry I can get ready in 20
minutes. When I’m not, I can stretch it
to two hours. My outfi t has to match
my mood, otherwise I won’t feel right. I
usually spend some 30 minutes staring
at my wardrobe, hoping for inspiration.
Then I shower – the hotter the water, the
better – and dry my hair. I spend ages
getting my make-up right. For me, make-
up is an art and it deserves as much
passion as I give a painting. The fi nal act
is choosing which accessories to wear.
Still, I rarely have time for that and usually
end up without any accessories – save
for my hat, of course.
Always take other people’s promises
with a pinch of salt – that way, you’ll
avoid a lot of disappointments.
Now that I’m living in London
I cannot see myself living anywhere
else. I’ve already gained so much
from being here.
I’m currently working on my second
music video for one of the tracks
on my EP, It’s Complex. The song is
called Spectator and it is a very dark
song which I am eager to portray in
the video. Martin Bonnici and Denise
Scicluna are directing it – the two are
a match made in heaven. I’m also
recording with Steve Orchard, whose
production CV includes names like
Sting, U2, Massive Attack and Peter
Gabriel. I’ve also been invited to host at
a London venue where I will be booking
the artists myself as well as headlining
each show on a weekly basis.
Stylist Luke Engerer and Carrie Haber sing a song in the key of style.Photography - Tonio Lombardi
Tra
de E
nq
uirie
s V
J S
alo
mo
ne (M
ark
eting
) te
l: 8
007 2
387
September 2010 FM –– 47
FM
MAKEOVER
Carrie is all smiles during her makeover.
“The skirt is actually an undergarment,” she says. “It came with another dress
I had bought in Camden. I particularly love its resemblance to a ballerina skirt – I
always wished I could be a ballerina, and this outfi t brings out the elegance and regal
femininity that I love in professional ballet dancers. The red and black work beautifully
together and the lace of the top with its skin-tight fi t is extremely fl attering.”
“I feel the whole mood of the outfi t is rather dark, which suits my music very
well. What makes the outfi t unique is the combination of feminine elegance that the
clothes portray and the shock of the quirky hair and make-up.”
“I loved every bit of my makeover – the make-up is particularly impressive. I would
describe the fi nal look as a love story gone awry.”
“Everyone on the makeover team is friendly and professional. I was so happy to
see a group of such talented people working together towards achieving the same
goal. There was a lovely atmosphere and lots of laughter, yet not one detail went
unnoticed. This is exactly what I look for in a team of professionals.”
YOU SHOULD BE SO LUCKYIf you want to be our lucky makeover
girl, send us an e-mail at model@
fmlifestyle.com and tell us why we
should choose you. Also, attach two
photos of you – one full body and one
head shot – with your e-mail.
AFTER
“I loved every bit of my makeover – the make-up is particularly impressive. I would describe the fi nal look as a love story gone awry.”
48 –– FM September 2010
Keep cosy as the nights turn chilly with one of thesegotta have ‘em trans-seasonal cover-ups
Photographer - Tonio Lombardi - www.toniolombardi.comStyling - Kira DruryPhotographer Tonio Lombardi www.toniolombbardi.comStyling - Kira Drury
48 –– FM September 2010
Sleeve notes
Mexx cream jacket with
chinese collar - €139.00
Debenhams crop leather
jacket - €39.00
Mexx black tux
blazer - €139.95
Piazza Italia plum
jacket - €27.99
Orsay tweed
jacket - €39.95
Peacocks pinstripe
blazer - €35.50
New Look black rose
jacket - €35.00Mango denim
jacket - €49.90
FALL / WINTER COLLECTION2010
VallettaSliemaSliema
Victoria Gozo
September 2010 FM –– 51
STYLEWISE
Style is what you make of it, says designer Enrique Tabone.WHAT I KNOW ABOUT STYLE
Phot
o by
Kam
y Li
lly
Style is not fashion. While fashion changes, style will keep developing with you, especially if you overcome your fear of it. Stick to your style and take risks. Express your inner self. To keep my work as fresh as possible, I make it a point to not let the infl uence of fashion compromise the originality of my designs.
Feel good about yourself. It’s useless buying the latest fashion if you don’t feel comfortable with yourself. Style requires self-knowledge, both physical and mental – it’s the only way to turn your style into self-expression. Style is not only about the clothing but also about character. It cannot be merely expressed through clothes – style is inside you. Style is a combination. It’s the way you dress, talk and move.
Get on a fi rst name basis with the language that is spoken through diff erent types of clothing. This will help you transmit the message you want, while giving a positive fi rst impression. Although style is in your own refl ection, do not reveal too much about you – keep it fresh, with just a hint of you.
Be yourself. Style must refl ect your truth. If your style clashes with your personality, it will be like wearing a costume. Style is personal creativity and not invention.
Appearances do matter. How you look like will infl uence the message that you send out. Style is a visual language.
Style is priceless, but doesn’t cost anything. Style is what you make of it. When you think you have nothing to wear, look again. Numerous bits and pieces can be combined together to create endless possibilities. Maybe for some it is about luxury, but personally I feel that it is more of a personal need.
Fashion is just a part of style. You can have loads of clothes and no style, and vice-versa.
Style is a journey. Comfort is the fi rst stage, leading to self-confi dence and joy in self-expression. Eventually, your personal style becomes an inherent part of you which you can carry with minimum eff ort. FM
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September 2010 FM –– 53
It’s just my luck that I arrived at Ouchy and walked into the Beau Rivage Palace a week before chef Anne Sophie Pic did.
During a wonderful motoring trip, I decided to do what the Michelin guide is always telling me to do, and that’s to ‘go out of my way’ for some great food because it’s ‘worth the drive’. As it is, the going out of my way ends up being lovely anyway, but by the time Pic had arrived,I had already stepped on the gas and whizzed off again.
If the whole point of my overland trip had been to go from the proverbial point A to point B, there were a hundred alternative, and faster, routes I would have taken. Yet ease was not the intention – scenery was. And some speed too. Going to the Beau Rivage meant that I had every excuse to whizz through the no-limit motorways of Germany – expensive as that motorway tariff was, it was still worth the cost.
The route I had chosen, accompanied by my trusty Tom Tom (with the John Cleese voice), involved a scary ride through the Great St Bernard pass on the way: up, up, up I went, through tunnels and frozen roads, with seemingly no down, out of the tunnels through ice and snow and hail. Not to mention stops to warm myself in cosy little mountain bars where the men were as rugged as the landscape. On a motoring trip, the stops are always the highlights.
After such an experience, where the white and shiny grey are seemingly never-ending, the moment the sun comes out to shine on your glowing face is like an epiphany. Mine was the sight of the most beautiful hotel to ever grace the edges of Lake Geneva – the Beau Rivage Palace Hotel just stood before me, shimmering out of the great body of water like a wet mirage.
Anne Sophie Pic, the chef ’s chef, was the first woman to be awarded three Michelin stars at the tender age of 37 and elected ‘Chef of the Year’ by the 8,000 chefs in the Michelin Guide. She was still dusting the tables at her new restaurant when I crunched my way noisily into the hotel car park. Still, the café was open – it would have to suffice.
And it certainly does. On a Sunday afternoon, the Café Lausanne was packed with the extremely posh families living in the area. To the Maltese, any Swiss person with their French-German twangs may seem posh, but the Beau Rivage is such an institution, both local and international, that having lunch here is like dining at The Ritz without the Russians and the Saudis.
The lobster salad was stratospherically good, fresh, simple and very well executed. The chips that accompanied the main were fat, square cut, crisp on the outside and fluffy inside. The steak came from some ecstatic cow. The dessert-trolley was old-style and just wonderfully replete with every single sinful sweet known to man (and even more, woman): it took me a full ten minutes to choose, at which point I suggested to the very patient maitre d’ that it would be best if he just gave up too and gave me little bits of everything: the tarts oozing fruit and custard, the profiteroles gushing chocolate and cream, the mousses of everything, the berries dipped in chocolate. I was ecstatic.
The rooms in the hotel reflect this general finesse – decked out in the chicest materials, the soft furnishings are fashioned in a very modern,yet classical style. Both periods come together to form a very organic kind of fusion where the customer feels absolutely at home, yet not at home enough that the cushions on the sofas are scuffed or un-plumped. The atmosphere feels as if there are hundreds of invisible fairies constantly cleaning up after you and blowing away every single stray hair from surfaces.
On a SWISS roll
COOL ROOMS
The view of Lake Geneva is the best wake-up call for Mona Farrugia.
54 –– FM September 2010
FM
Bittersweet symphony
Life is a box of chocolate and chestnut
truffl es.
You need:
75 g butter
100g dark chocolate
50 g milk chocolate
180 g sweet chestnut puree
40 g icing sugar
3 drops orange blossom water
To decorate
2 tsp almond slivers
3 tsp chocolate streusel
1 tsp coloured hundreds and thousands
3 tsp chocolate chips
1 tsp icing sugar
Method
Melt the butter and both types of chocolate
in a bain-marie. Stir in the chestnut puree,
sugar and orange blossom water until the
mixture is creamy. Refrigerate for 24 hours
until the truffl e mixture sets.
Toast the almond slivers until light brown.
Chop and place on a plate. Mix the streusel
and hundreds and thousands and place on a
second plate. Place the chocolate chips on
a third plate.
Shape the truffl e mixture into little balls,
the size of a nut. Toss in the different
decorations. Finally, dust the truffl es with
icing sugar and keep in a cool place until
ready to serve.
“Sofas are important at the Beau Rivage, for the simple reason that these are rooms with a seriously gorgeous view that demand you sit down.”
Sofas are important at the Beau Rivage, for the simple reason that these are rooms with a seriously gorgeous view of Lake Geneva; the kind of view that demands you sit down and pay your respects. Like a very generous (but stylish) mama, the town itself is constructed over three hills, draped with vineyard-covered slopes all around, and the huge body of glistening water at its feet. Opposite, on a good day, you can see the Savoy Alps. Not bad for a wake-up call.
Most of the town’s meandering alleys and twee shops is thankfully car-free. After a bracing walk around it and some stockpiling of chocolate (essential for the journey as any long-haul motorist will tell you), I crunch my way out of the Beau Rivage car-park, past cars so expensive that a normal human being would need to take out a mortgage to afford them, and out on the well-built roads which sadly take me, and the taste of that chocolate ganache still nestling on my tongue, away.
COOL ROOMS
For more info call 21342155 [email protected]
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September 2010 FM –– 57
CHEMISTRY
Every time our little island steals a mention on
the international news circuit, the patriotic core
inside me throbs with emotion. The features
which make me blush with pride are abundant. Yet,
especially of late, we are often discussed for less
fl attering reasons. Unhappily, one topic which we
invariably star in is antibiotic abuse.
Malta boasts one of the highest rates of
antibiotic consumption within the European Union.
While a barrage of educational campaigns has
improved the situation, our reckless yet resilient
love affair with the wonder drugs continues. The
subject is becoming topical once again as yet
another summer draws to an end. The warm
season caresses us with feelings of relaxation
and wellbeing, and our passion for pill-popping
somewhat wanes. However, as al fresco diners
and partygoers quietly move indoors, sore throats
and colds make a comeback and our passion for
pills fl ares up again.
The problem does not lie with antibiotics.
These drugs are indispensable and have saved
countless lives since their discovery. The trouble is
that they are completely useless against all colds
and most sore throats. These annoying ailments
are caused by viruses, while antibiotics attack
bacteria. Unnecessary use of antibiotics harms
the body and stimulates the evolutionary battle,
with the strongest, most destructive bacteria
emerging victorious, in true Darwinian style. Those
who insist that antibiotics always cure their sniffl es
should rest assured that munching on a handful of
fruit pastilles will achieve the same outcome, at a
much lesser cost.
The good thing about many common viral
infections is that they are self-limiting, and resolve
without treatment over a number of days. In these
situations, medication can be taken to alleviate
the symptoms, rather than cure the illness. This is
where anti-infl ammatory and antiseptic gargles,
soothing lozenges, nasal decongestants, and
analgesics take centre stage. Drinking lots of
fl uids, keeping warm, and taking it easy all help to
ensure a speedy recovery.
Regrettably, when you are forced to drag
yourself through the day in a hazy delirium, with
a crimson nose and a prickly throat, these good
tidings are of little comfort. What every person
wants – bar a certain category of attention
seekers and the exceptionally lazy – is to never
fall ill at all. This is impossible. However, ushering
in disease-causing organisms through an open
door can be avoided by taking some simple
measures. These include frequent, careful hand
washing, as well as permanently kicking the
habit of continuously touching the eyes, nose,
or mouth. A complete, balanced diet, abundant
in fresh fruit and vegetables, is the foundation of
a healthy immune system, which helps to stave
off infections. In some cases, vitamins or other
dietary supplements may also be of assistance in
preventing, or sometimes treating, infections.
It is inevitable that one time or another, the
pesky little microbes will somehow make their way
in. When this happens, no matter how miserable
you feel, avoid bullying your doctor or pharmacist
into handing over antibiotics or other medicines
which they do not deem necessary. Trust them,
and lay back and rest. Ask yourself what would
happen if accountants were to suddenly start
designing buildings and if lawyers were to fl y
aeroplanes. The answer, I suspect, is complete
chaos and bad publicity for Malta.
Summer is almost over, and as cold spells grab us by the throat, we resort to popping pills. Yet there are much simpler cures, says Anne Marie Spiteri.
SUPPLEMENTARY BOOST
Nearly all nutrients are involved in maintaining
a healthy immune system. Often, excessive
amounts of a particular nutrient are just as
harmful as insuffi cient amounts. A complete,
balanced diet is often the best way to keep the
immune system in tip top shape. However, it
may sometimes be appropriate to take vitamins,
minerals, or other dietary supplements in order
to boost your immune system.
ECHINACEA
Echinacea has been used for centuries to
treat common colds, coughs and other
respiratory tract infections. There are many
different species of echinacea – the main
species used in echinacea formulations is the
echinacea purpurea.
Echinacea should be used as a treatment
which is commenced at the onset of
symptoms, and should not be taken
prophylactically. It is also sometimes taken
during the change of season – however, it
should not normally be taken continuously for
long periods of time.
While some studies showed no benefi t, other
studies have shown that echinacea reduces
the severity of symptoms and decreases the
duration of the illness. However, more studies
need to be carried out to provide further
evidence of benefi t.
VITAMIN C
Unlike echinacea, Vitamin C does not seem to
be of any signifi cant benefi t when it is taken
after the onset of symptoms.
The value of Vitamin C is in prophylaxis
– when it is taken before the onset of
symptoms it has been shown to decrease
the duration of the illness. Vitamin C was also
found to cause a signifi cant reduction in the
risk of developing a cold when it was given to
athletes and soldier exposed to extreme cold.
Vitamin C supplements abound. However,
there are also plenty of foods which are
rich in Vitamin C, including blackcurrants,
strawberries, citrus fruit, peppers, brussels
sprouts, and broccoli.
MULTIVITAMIN PREPARATIONS
Nutritional defi ciency, which is most likely to
occur in children and the elderly, is associated
with decreased immunity. In these cases, a
supplement containing a range of vitamins and
minerals may help to boost the immune system.
In studies carried out using multivitamin and
mineral preparations, an enhanced immune
response and a decrease in common infections
was observed in children, elderly people, and in
people suffering from Type 2 diabetes mellitus.
These supplements should contain beta
carotene, Vitamins B6, B12, C, D, E, folic acid,
as well as minerals such as zinc and iron.
FM
Beating the bugs
58 –– FM September 2010
LAST WORD
Christina Darmanin sees fashion as painting in motion.
Play-ing for a draw
I’m currently reading Philosophy, Theology,
History of Art, Entrepreneurship and Marketing
Management at Durham University, UK.
I love the world of fashion and have modelled
for Miss Summer International in Malta and
participated in other fashion shows.
For me, fashion is the making of wearable, mobile
poetry. Fashion is visual verses that you carry
around with you. Clothes and accessories - they
are an artistic expression using coloured fabrics
and patterns which feel good on their own and
when worn. Perhaps fashion could be defi ned as
painting in motion.
Design is my way of being creative and
innovative. Nature is my main inspiration,
especially bird feathers and beehive textures.
I have fond memories of the wardrobe I had when
I was a little girl. Rather than the contents, it’s the
wardrobe itself that was unique - a vintage piece
of furniture with the coolest keyhole and a large,
heavy key.
Nowadays, my wardrobe is more eclectic. It
is a magical array of colour and a curious mix
of hand-me-downs, men’s dinner jackets and
vintage collectibles.
The most expensive item I have ever bought is a
pair of Pinko wooden platforms in Florence. Then
there’s my…wait, I had better keep that a secret.
All the clothes I make and hand-paint have an
individual story tailored specifi cally to inspire and
embrace the wearer.
A person makes an outfi t all the way. You could
wear a garbage bag and still look stunning. It’s
all about the way you project your inner self - the
feeling inside always creates the beauty outside.
One of my goals for this year is to fi nish a
collection for a fashion show I am organising and
designing for Trevelyan College in conjunction
with the Fine Arts Society in Durham. FM
Pho
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Zachary Street
VALLETTAArkadia
GOZONaxxar Road
BIRKIRKARA