for adopters - please bring with you the following · 2014-04-11 · rescue dog village, llc...

www.rescuedogvillage.com

BRINGING YOUR

NEW DOG HOME

NEW ENGLAND

A Guide to Help Adopters Start Off On the Right Paw

Congratulations on making the choice to save a life and adopt a one of our rescue dogs! There are so many dogs that need homes that it can be a wonderful feeling to offer a home to a dog that is in a rescue organization.

REVISED May 2011: kw

http://www.rescuedogvillage.com/

RESCUE DOG VILLAGE, LLC

Bringing Your New Dog Home

RESCUE DOG VILLAGE, LLC 5 WEBSTER DRIVE 1, PRESTON, CT 06365

PHONE: (860) 940.3350 PAGE i

TABLE OF CONTENTS

A. PREPARATIONS ................................................................................................... 1 1) Before You Bring Your Dog Home ......................................................................... 1 2) Helpful Hints ............................................................................................................. 1 3) Making a Home Safe ................................................................................................ 1 4) Choosing a Name...................................................................................................... 2 5) Instructions On New Rescue Dog First Few Days ............................................... 2 6) The First Two Weeks – Give’em a Break! .............................................................. 3 7) Two Week Shutdown ............................................................................................... 4

B. A NEW BEGINNING ........................................................................................... 5 1) The First Days at Home ........................................................................................... 5

Step 1: Show Your Dog Around ................................................................... 5 Step 2: His Room ............................................................................................. 5 Step 3: Observe ................................................................................................ 5

2) Toilet Training ........................................................................................................... 5 3) Special Puppy Concerns .......................................................................................... 5 4) Children and Pets ..................................................................................................... 6 5) Food, Bones ................................................................................................................ 6 6) Meeting Resident Pets .............................................................................................. 6 7) Introduce the New Food Gradually ....................................................................... 6 8) Tips for Successfully Changing Your Dog’s Diet ................................................. 6 9) General Advice for Helping Your New Adopted Dog to Settle In .................... 7

C. TRAINING TIPS .................................................................................................... 7 1) Supplies ...................................................................................................................... 8 2) Setup ........................................................................................................................... 8 3) Crate Training ........................................................................................................... 8 4) Dog-Proofing Your Home ....................................................................................... 8 5) Arrival ........................................................................................................................ 9 6) Quite Time ................................................................................................................. 9 7) Bedtime ...................................................................................................................... 9 8) Socialization ............................................................................................................... 9 9) House Training ......................................................................................................... 10




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A. PREPARATIONS

1) Before You Bring Your Dog Home, Be Sure You Have The Following Supplies: Settling into a new home can be a stressful and disorientating process for a puppy. Your home is full of

new noises, objects and people and at the same time, he has been separated from its usual source of comfort and reassurance, speak with your vet about D.A.P. which is a synthetic copy of the canine appeasing pheromone, which is clinically proven to comfort and reassure puppies and adult dogs alike and adapt to a new home.

Bowls -Stainless steel, non-tip food and water bowls. Identification tags with your dog’s name, your name, phone number and your veterinarian’s name and

phone number. A collar and a leather or nylon 6-foot leash that’s 1/2 – 3/4 inches wide (consider using a “breakaway” collar with plastic clips that will unsnap in case your dog gets hung up on something).

Crate - You might consider using a crate or kennel that will accommodate your dog’s adult size. This crate will serve as your dog’s new “den” at home, when travelling or riding to the veterinary clinic. His scent in the crate will provide comfort and a sense of security during these stressful times.

Stain remover for accidental soiling. Brushes and combs suited to your dog’s coat; ask your veterinarian or local pet shop about an

appropriate brush or comb for your dog. Dog shampoo, toothbrush and paste. Toys - High-quality, safe chew toys to ease teething. Medical - Flea, tick and parasite controls. Nail clippers – make sure that you ask your vet the best way to clips your dogs nails. If you clip them to

close, they can bleed and you want to be sure that you know what to do and your have the right supplies handy in case that happens.

Treats – Be sure to read the labels so you know what is IN the treats and you know what your dog is easing in case they have a reaction.

2) Helpful Hints Use stainless steel or ceramic, non-tip food bowls, which won’t break or absorb odors.

Toys with parts that squeak or whistle can be dangerous if swallowed.

For a comfortable collar fit, allow for two-fingers of space between the collar and your dog’s neck; consider using an adjustable collar.

3) Making a Home Safe To make your home safe for your new dog, eliminate potential hazards around the house and pay attention to the following items: Keep breakable objects out of reach.

Deny access to electrical cords by hiding or covering them; make outlets safe with plastic outlet plugs.

Safely store household chemicals.

Keep the following house and garden plants out of reach: poinsettias, azaleas, rhododendrons, dumb cane, Japanese yew, oleander, lilies and English ivy among others.

In the garage, be sure engine lubricants and other poisonous chemicals (especially antifreeze) are safely stored.




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4) Choosing a Name Though you may already have a name for your new dog, here are some tips:

Names should be short. A two-syllable name is preferable because it’s brief but won’t be confused with one-syllable commands such as “No” or “Sit.”

Be consistent. All family members should use the same name-don’t use confusing nicknames or variations.

Reward your dog’s attention/name recognition with lots of praise and play.

5) Instructions On New Rescue Dog’s First Few Days Please be mindful that some rescued dogs are quite trepidations after transport, others are no less for wear after their “Journey on the Open Road." Understandably, each dog handles transport differently, and we ask you to recognize and appreciate that there are many changes these dogs are experiencing once they board the truck on their Northern sojourn from the South to their loving forever home to you! Please take it slowly and follow your dog's lead. They don't speak our language, and we don't understand their BARKS or WOOFS, but each dog's respective behavior will surely be a clear indication of readiness. Proceed with that in mind. Do not take anything for granted regarding your new rescue dog’s comfort level though we FULLY EXPECT THAT SOON YOUR DOG WILL BE AN EASY GOING MEMBER OF YOUR FAMILY! However, we tell all adopters to please respect and appreciate that these are rescued animals, and we will never know all of their triggers, if any and we never really know if they will be very stressed or not after transport and so many changes. Better to be prepared for anything and have nothing go wrong, right? I can't imagine there will be any issues as they seem to handle transport quite well. Still, one never knows, and it's just something you need to be mindful of. Fortunately, you are, the last chapter of this rescue story, and so, be clear that your new dog will show you what their individual pace should be to ensure smooth transitions within the first week and thereafter. WATCH FOR CUES and you should know best how to proceed. We all believe that our dog will do FINE on VACATION and that you will have AWESOME PHOTOS TO SHARE OF THAT

PRECIOUS TIME WITH YOUR NEW DOG!

Our dogs let us know their readiness by their demonstrable behavior. Some are skittish and hesitant, while others aren't. It's simply hard to anticipate how a dog might react, especially because certain experiences may engender unexpected behavior -- OR NOT! What's certain, though, is that our transporters will take exceptional care to give your rescued dog all they need to be comfortable and safe on his trip NORTH. We recommend that for the first several weeks you minimize your expectations and just allow them they time they need to accept all the many changes. Since you will be traveling soon after receiving him, We would never have recommended this an opportune time if it wasn't!

Everything will be new and unfamiliar for your new rescue dog. However, the climate and region are also different and sometimes our dogs are itchy and scratchy just because of the transport to a much drier locale. It usually subsides within a day or two, so don't be alarmed. It is not uncommon that some transported dogs are not hungry right away, and yet others have voracious appetites. As I mentioned some of our dogs are initially itchy upon coming to a new region, so we always suggest taking that into consideration upon arrival. Often salmon oil or Omega Three oil supplements are a good addition. Often, nothing is needed at all. Feed wisely, slowly, and routinely, and know that he will slowly acclimate to his new routine, and will be reliant on your patience and understanding after a long transport with so many other dogs. Your confidence and trusted leadership will be the hallmark of his success. Dogs are pack animals, and when your dog arrives in your care, they will look to you for guidance and structure as his faithful leader. And a loving and faithful this dog will certainly be . . . BIG SMILE!




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Your enthusiasm will be undeniably palpable by this Saturday pending the arrival of your new rescue dog’s ARRIVAL! Continue to be patient and understanding as the transition into your loving care, and feel FREE TO CALL US, CONTACT INFORMAITON IS SECTION A, ITEM #4, DIRECTLY SHOULD YOU HAVE ANY QUESTIONS ABOUT ANY ASSISTANCE AT ALL. IT SIMPLY MAY TAKE SOME TIME, and that is what you have devoted to give this special dog for life --- along with all the love in your BIG AND GENEROUSLY COMPASSIONATE TENDER HEARTS!! That, and all the proper vetting and attention all dogs always deserved and is about to receive! Some dogs are more hesitant and need a longer while to acclimate than others who might be get off transport ready to run and play and romp and jump straight into your heart! This is what we fully expect for all of our dogs, but our motto is always EXPECT THE BEST, but PREPARE FOR ALL POSSIBILITIES that might manifest in your dog. Each animal is unique and will handle the stressors of transport individually. Regardless, never forget that WE ARE HERE TO HELP YOU FOR THE LONG RUN, happy to assist your family in every way.

If you observe your dog and follow their lead as we discussed, taking care to meet all of the needs are met as they unfold, it should be a typical transition. If you purposefully give your new dog the understandable time to adjust, with no expectations other than to make them feel welcomed and safe in his new environment, your new dog will likely accept and trust you more readily. After such a long trip, some dogs are very tired and want to sleep after transport, or some of the dogs might want to run and jump and play to get some of his pent up energy out! No doubt, this sweet dog will want to sink right into your heart and be as close to you while you pet him and savors your company. Still, you’ll have to observe all behaviors to fully understand what your dog needs, and this won't be difficult. As we said, please take great care to introduce your new charge to new people and other dogs slowly and with prudent and responsible care, especially with at first. Please do NOT let your understandable enthusiasm compromise the safe transition of your dog. DO NOT PUT YOUR NEW FOUR-LEGGED FAMILY MEMBER ON STIMULUS OVERLOAD. Try to keep the visitors at bay and slowly introduce your dog to new things recognizing EVERYTHING IS DIFFERENT, and it's a lot for our rescued dogs to trust and digest. Build your foundation with your new dog on trust and consistent routine. We ask you to exercise extreme and reasonable caution as these dogs have already endured a lot that we do not know, and that must be honored. Even if it seems that these dogs are transitioning well, do not assume anything; take great care to go slowly. SUCH IS ALWAYS IN OUR DOGS' best interest and we know this from experience.

6) The First Two Weeks – Give’em a Break! Why? If I could stress one of the biggest errors people make with new dogs and foster dogs it is rushing the dog into the new world so fast . This shut down gives the dog a chance to say “ahhh” take a breath and restart into its new world.

From people I have helped I hear: "I introduced her to 15 people the first day I had her!" ;" he was a bit leery but seems to like my other 3 dogs"; "she went everywhere with me " All in the first few days of the new home..... (!!!)

Two weeks later we hear: " I think we will have to rehome the new dog" "the new dog barked and nipped at my kid" "we had a dog fight" “the new dog barked at me for moving him off the couch”

OK, folks, here it comes, some feel this is extreme, why? I really do not know. But when bringing in a new dog, post finding, adoption, buying, etc, Give it time to adjust to you and your family and the dogs in the new environment. Just as if it were a new baby or puppy, we wouldn’t




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think of rushing out with a baby or puppy, yet with older pups and dogs we just expect them to take our lives in all at once!

7) TWO WEEKS - "SHUT DOWN" For the first two weeks, (sometimes even longer) a dog takes in the new environment, who is the top person, or animal, who ARE these people!? By pushing a dog too fast and throwing too much at the dog we look like we are not the leaders and the dog can feel it MUST defend itself, as the leader is surely no one he has met so far!

We coo, coddle, drag the dog to home to home to person to person, and the dog has NO idea who we are. We correct for things it doesn’t understand, we talk in a new human language using words he does not know.

A key thing to remember is "this is the dating period NOT the honeymoon" When you first met your "spouse or significant other”, you were on your best behavior, you were not relaxed enough to be all of yourself, were you? Just think of the things you do physically once you get to KNOW a person, you wouldn’t run up to a stranger and hug them and squeeze them!

Imagine, if on the first date, this new person, was all over you touching you and having their friends hug you and pat you on the head, and jostle your shoulders, looked in your mouth then he whisked you off to another strangers home and they did the same thing. Would you think this person normal and SAFE? Wouldn’t you feel invaded and begin to get a bit snarky or defensive yourself? Wouldn’t you think to push these people away for obviously your date is out of their mind, as they aren’t going to save you from these weirdoes!! Yet we do this very thing to our dogs, and then get upset or worried that they aren’t relaxed and accepting of EVERYTHING instantly!

By shutting down the dog, it gives the dog TIME to see you, meet YOU, hear and take in the new sounds and smells of your home and all the people in it. In the 1st two weeks:

Crate the dog in a room by itself if possible. (Believe me, dogs are sensory animals, they know more than you think without seeing it).

Leash the dog (so I don’t have to correct it ...you don’t have that right yet!), give it exercise time in the yard on lunge line or in fenced yard..but other than that.. LEASH , (yes..leash in the house too.)

Do no training at all, just fun exercise and maybe throw some toys for fun, leash the dog if you don’t have a fence outside. But DO NOT leave the yard, AT ALL.

No car rides, no other dogs, (unless crated beside them), no pet stores, no WALKS even, nothing but you and household family, your home, your yard. (Unless of course the dog needs to go to the veterinarian)

Believe me; dogs can live two weeks without walks. Walks are stressful for there is so much coming at you and your dog! And the dog has no clue who you are yet. The dog may react to something and we start correcting it with the leash and we just installed a VERY STRESSFUL moment to the dog in what should be a fun and learning walk. TEACH the dog by doing the shut down, that YOU are the one to look to, that you are now here for the dog! He can trust in you and look to you for guidance. Then you can venture out into new situations one at a time, the dog knows he can trust in his new humans and can relax under the fair guidance of his new leaders!




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In the house take the dog out only for about 20-30 minute intervals, post exercise/yard times, and ALWAYS on a leash when in the house or in an unfenced yard. Exercise is important! Running and free time are stress relievers, but don’t set your dog up for failure, make exercise and yard time fun and relaxing and tiring!

Then PUT THE DOG AWAY. Let it absorb and think and relax. Ignore crying or barking, just like a new born baby, he must find security when you are not right there, and if you run to him each time he will think barking and crying will get your attention. I do not introduce resident dogs for these two weeks; they can be side by side in the crates, (not nose to nose for they can feel defensive). Some dogs will bond instantly with the other dogs if we don’t bond FIRST with the dog, and this can lead to some other issues, as the dog will look to the other dog(s) for guidance and not YOU!

Literally in two weeks you will see a change in the dog and begin to see its honest and true personality.

Just like a house guest... they are well behaved and literally shut down and “polite” themselves these first few weeks, then post this time, they relax and the true personality begins to shine thru.

So, please, if nothing else for your new dog, give it the time to LEARN YOU as you are learning who they are! This method works on shy dogs, confident dogs, abuse cases, chained dogs that come in, rowdy dogs, all temperaments!

B. A NEW BEGINNING

1) The First Days at Home

The ideal time to bring home a new dog is when the house is quiet. Discourage friends from stopping by and don’t allow overnight guests. First establish a daily routine and follow these steps:

Step 1: Before bringing him in the house, take him to the area in your garden that will serve as his “toilet” and spend a few minutes there. If he goes, praise him. If not, proceed into the house but be sure to take him to this spot each time he needs to go to the toilet.

Step 2: Take him to the room which will serve as his new “den” for several days. Put bedding and chew toys in the room, Let him investigate the room. If he chews or urinates on his bedding, permanently remove it.

Step 3: Observe and interact with your dog while he’s acclimating to his new den. This will help forge a sense of pack and establish you as the pack leader.

2) Toilet Training

Supervise your dog at all times and interact with him regularly.

Be alert for signs (sniffing and circling) that he has to go to the toilet, and then take him outside immediately.

Don’t punish an accident. Never push his nose in the waste or scold him. He won’t understand, and may learn to go to the toilet when you’re out of sight.

Praise your dog every time he goes to the toilet outside.

3) Special Puppy Concerns

If you have a puppy, don’t treat him like an adult dog. Treat him the same way you would your own infant: with patience, constant supervision and a gentle touch. The way you interact with your puppy at this age is critical to his socialization. Use these tips:




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A young puppy has no bladder control and will need to urinate immediately after eating, drinking, sleeping or playing. At night, he will need to relieve himself at least every three hours, during the day at least once every hour.

4) Children and Pets

Ideally, your children should help you choose your new dog. When you bring him home, don’t let them play with him constantly. Puppies in particular need a lot of rest just like a growing child. Limit dog-children play sessions to 15-30 minute periods 2-3 times a day.

Young children may be tempted to shout at a dog if they think he’s doing something wrong. Be sure they understand that puppies and dogs can be easily upset and startled by loud noises.

No teasing. Keeping a toy just out of reach will reinforce bad habits such as jumping up and excessive barking.

Wagging tails and play biting can be too rough for some young children. Teach the children to cross their arms or put their hands in their pockets if the dog has a tendency to play bite. Supervise all interaction and separate them if the play is too rough.

Teach children to care for a dog by showing them how to feed and groom him.

5) Food, Bones

We DO NOT RECOMMEND YOU FEED HIGH VALUE BONES like rawhide TO SAFEGUARD AGAINST RESOURCE GUARDING-- and be mindful of feeding time with the multiple dogs should that ever be the case. Often the smallest of things can cause a rift between dogs especially where food is concerned. Our rescued dogs can be excitable and unnerved -- or HAPPY TAIL WAGGERS after transport. Food is always a time of concern as many of them are HUNGRY, understandably, for quite some time in these early stages of rescue. Children should also be highly monitored around rescued dog's feeding, especially so soon after transport. So many of them have unknown pasts and we must always SEEK TO SET OUR DOGS UP TO SUCCEED AND NOT FAIL, putting them in situations where they can excel and shine. THAT IS OUR RESPONSIBILITY AS OUR DOGS' LEADERS. SEPARATE DOGS RESPONSIBLY WHILE FEEDING (even if you don't have multiple dogs in the house, this same philosophy applies with visiting dogs) especially be mindful of how they learn to share bones and toy with others, and not until after you've had them for a while!

6) Meeting Resident Pets

Keep resident pets separated from your new dog for a few days. After that time, let pets smell and touch each other through a slightly open door. Do this several times over the next few days. After that, give the resident pet access to the den area with your new dog. Supervise their meeting and go back to through-the-door meetings if trouble arises.

7) Introduce the New Food Gradually

This is the most successful way to ease your dog into the change in diet, start by mixing 25% new food with 75% old food. Slowly change the proportions over the next three days or so by gradually increasing the amount of new food and decreasing the amount of old food. At the end of this weaning process, you should be feeding 100% of the new food. You may encounter some difficulties, such as your dog choosing to eat only the old food, or not eating at all. Not to worry, a healthy dog can miss meals for a day or two with no ill effects.

8) Tips for Successfully Changing Your Dog’s Diet

Switching your dog’s diet to a new food takes some planning. Because dogs are creatures of habit, it is not uncommon for them to prefer their current food to a new food. They, like humans, can become accustomed to a food and may not welcome a disruption in their routine.




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9) General Advice for Helping Your New Adopted Dog to Settle In

Contrary to myth, just because a dog is a rescue dog, it does not actually mean there is something ‘wrong’ with the dogs, quite the opposite in many cases. Dogs very often get put up for adoption for the exact same reasons children do i.e. they lose their parents or their original careers are incapacitated and are unable to care for them anymore. This means that rescue centers are full of dogs that are actually brilliantly suited to be pets, often coming already well socialized, house trained and used to living in a family home. In many ways, rescue dogs can sometimes be the LEAST risky option when becoming a dog owner – you already know what you’re going to get.

It is very important to speak at great lengths with the staff at the shelter about the dog you are interested in. Sometimes they have plenty of background information on the dog and other times they don’t. What they will have though is an assessment of each individual dog’s suitability to go into a new home and fit a particular lifestyle.

Feel free to go and meet the dogs. Ask if it would be already to take the dogs for an accompanied walk and generally get to know the dogs outside of the kennel environment. Never judge a dog by how it acts in the kennels. Some dogs are COMPLETELY different to how they appear when behind the kennel gates. Don’t be put off.

When you first bring your dog home, try and establish routine as quickly as possible. It’s always tempting to make the dog’s first few days full of play and excitement. This can lead to problems though. So get the dog settled in, show them they have their own private area of the home which is just for them and let them settle in and relax and speak to your veterinary practice, your vet will be able to recommend natural pheromone products, such as D.A.P., which will comfort and reassure your dog, helping them settle more quickly and easily.

Don’t do too much too soon. Dogs can be excitable and whilst it may be tempting to show the dog off to all your friends, family and neighbors, too much too soon can make the dog unsettled early on. Gently introduce them to new things.

If you encounter problems with the dog, be prepared to call the shelter, speak to a vet or get the advice of a professional behaviorist. Too often people let little problems develop into big problems because they weren’t sure who to turn to for advice. Remember, with dogs there is never such a thing as a ’silly question’.

Finally, be prepared to love the dog for the rest of its natural life. The very name ‘rescue’ dog is a little misleading. It suggests the dog needed to be ‘saved’ or that the new owner is doing the dog a great favor. Well yes, the dog will be forever grateful for being given a happy, safe and stable home life but please, don’t consider rescuing a dog as something to try out. These dogs need and deserve long-term stability and a home for life. If you are in any doubt at all that you can provide that, you may be better suited to offering your help to the rescue centers and going and helping out with the dogs on a part time basis before you commit to giving the dog the life they deserve.

C. TRAINING TIPS You can contact us for any training advice and input but we also strongly encourage you to check out Cesar Millan’s website: www.cesarmillaninc.com His book and tapes are extremely helpful and offer a lot of insight. We believe they are easy to follow and provide a lot of answers.

http://www.cesarmillaninc.com/




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1) Supplies

Dog food (see recommended)

Water bowl, food bowl or Kongs / food Treats for training

Toys (chew bones, chew toys)

Bed (dog bed, blanket or towels)

Crate and/or baby gates

Put all these supplies in your new dog’s confinement

area (see below)

2) Setup

Set up a confinement area, a place your dog will stay when you can’t provide 100% supervision i.e. you’re out, or busy around the house, and can’t watch him the entire time.

The ideal confinement area should be easy to clean and easy to close off with a door or baby gate. It should be mostly free of furniture and non-dog related objects (remember, everything is a potential chew toy to a dog!). The best place for a confinement area is the kitchen, laundry room, porch, empty spare room or small indoor/outdoor area.

Furnish the confinement area with a bed or a crate with something soft to sleep on, a water bowl and several toys, including a favorite bone or chew toy. Note: The confinement area should be the only place your dog gets to have his favorite toy.

You might think the word “confinement” has a negative connotation, but your dog’s confinement area is not a negative thing. It’s positive. The confinement area is a place your dog can call his own as he makes the transition to his new home. It’s where he gets good things, like meals and his favorite toy. It sets him up for success in the process of housetraining and alone-time training. People often give a new dog complete freedom right away. Then, when he has an accident or chews the wrong thing, they confine him, and confinement becomes punishment. If you start out giving your dog the run of the house, you’re setting him up for failure. Better to give him a safe, confined place, so he can make a gradual and successful transition to his new home.

3) Crate Training

A crate is a valuable tool for a new adopter. Like a confinement area, a crate eases the process of housetraining, chew training and alone-time training. It helps your dog make the transition to his new home. (See Crate Training Handout)

4) Dog-Proofing Your Home

Dogs, especially young ones or untrained ones, are like children and will get into everything. This can be very stressful for you and at worst, your house can be deadly for your dog. The kitchen and garage need to be dog proofed. Kitchen cleansers, soaps, drain cleaners will kill your pet if ingested. In the garage, detergents, cleaners, anti-freeze, paint removers, garden supplies such as weed killers, snail bait, fertilizers etc. can all be deadly. Bathrooms also contain similar items. Be careful. The garden can also be a dangerous area. There are many plants and bulbs (inside and out) that are poisonous. It is very important that you check for mushrooms during damp weather as these can be lethal with only a small amount.

http://www.rocketdogrescue.org/resources-3/recommended-food-and-treats/




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Dog-proofing your home also means making sure that you have secured high fences and gates that are locked. And remember, chocolate is also deadly to dogs so keep it out of reach.

5) Arrival

When you arrive at home, take your dog out for a walk or bathroom break

Introduce him on leash to his new home, including his confinement area

Give your dog a chew bone or a stuffed Kong and leave him alone in the confinement area for approximately 5 minutes

If your dog begins to howl, whine, or bark, wait until he has been quiet for at least ten seconds before you respond.

Otherwise, your dog will learn that whining or barking makes you appear or gets him out of the confinement area, and he’ll bark or cry for longer periods of time. You must get your dog used to short absences starting within the first few hours his arrival. This is extremely important. You’ll want to spend every minute with your dog when he first comes home, but you should prepare him right away for a normal routine. He must learn to be relaxed, calm and settled when he’s alone. Alone-time training is necessary because dogs are highly social animals and being alone doesn’t come naturally to them.

Leave your dog alone in his confinement area while you go out or spend time in another part of the house. Vary the length of your absences, from 30 seconds to 20 minutes, and repeat them throughout the day. If your dog seems comfortable, you can increase the amount of time he’s left alone. Remember, it may take several days or weeks for your dog to make the transition to his new home.

6) Quiet Time

We recommend that after you bring your new adopted dog home, let her check out the area of the house where she is allowed and let her figure things out for 3-4 hours with you supervising. Wait a couple of days before inviting friends etc. over to meet the new dog. Rescue dogs have already been through a series of changes, so quiet time with her immediate family is important. If the dog wants to play a bit with you, that’s fine but do NOT allow her to interact with young children yet. If the dog does not solicit play or attention from you, let her establish herself for a while. Don’t force her to play.

7) Bedtime

Put a chew toy in your dog’s crate or sleeping area when you leave him for the night. He may have trouble settling in at first, but he should eventually relax and go to sleep. Remember, it’s important not to let your dog out of his confinement area if he’s crying or barking. If he gets attention for barking, he’ll keep it up for long periods of time.

8) Socialization

Rescue dogs come from a variety of backgrounds but all dogs can do with more socialization!!! (This is especially important for Foster dogs. We want them to be as well socialized as possible.) After your new dog has had some time to settle in and he is showing some confidence in you, give him lots of pleasant social experiences. He should be able to meet people (and other dogs, if he’s not dog-aggressive) at home and near home. Then perhaps in new places like parks, obedience school, etc.

Try to make sure that you allow your new dog to be handled by other people only after he has a chance to trust you. Then do introductions to other people gradually. Family members first, then friends he knows. Introductions can take the form of petting, playing fetch, even going for a walk with a trusted, dog-oriented friend. Do not force the dog to accept people, allowing HIM to approach people, rather than




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people approaching the dog. Use treats and have patience if he is reticent to allow other people to touch or play with him. He’ll usually come around with time.

At first, be sure to tell people NOT reach for the dog right away. Let him come when he wants to. If he doesn’t, the visitor should completely ignore the dog. Suggest that after the dog has met/sniffed the new person, that they pat the SIDE of the dog’s neck or side of shoulder. Patting the top of a dog’s head is interpreted by dogs as a dominance attempt and can issue a challenge to some dogs or frighten others. Most dogs have no problem with this but since some do, it is always best to exercise caution.

9) House Training

Some adult dogs are not house-trained. If your dog has an accident, it’s not because he’s incapable or unintelligent, it’s because he has not been properly trained. To successfully housetrain your dog, you need to treat him like an 8-week-old pup. The confinement area is your key to success.

Until your dog is perfectly housetrained, never leave him alone unless he’s in his confinement area

He must be 100% supervised when he’s outside his confinement area

Take your dog out on leash frequently. Start by walking him at half-hour intervals

If you see your dog sniffing and circling in the house, take him out immediately

Praise and reward him with a treat (cookie) when he relieves himself outdoors

Never yell or punish your dog for a potty accident in the house

for adopters - please bring with you the following · 2014-04-11 · rescue dog village, llc...

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