for work on lv electrical equipment or circuits

8/3/2019 For Work on LV Electrical Equipment or Circuits

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ISNTALLATIONS OF ELECTRICAL & LAN CABLES

For work on LV electrical equipment or circuits, it is important to ensure that the correct point of

isolation is identified, an appropriate means of isolation is used and the supply cannot inadvertentlybe reinstated

while the work is in progress. Caution notices should also be applied at the point(s) of isolation, and

the

conductors must be proved to be dead at the point of work before they are touched.

A fundamental principle is that the point of isolation should be under the control of the person who

is

carrying out the work on the isolated conductors.

The means of isolation can be an adjacent local isolation device such as a plug and socket,

switch-disconnector, circuit breaker, fuse etc, as appropriate, which is under the direct control of the

competent person carrying out the work. These devices can be used without further precautions

provided there is no foreseeable risk that the supply could be reinstated by others.

When there is no such local means of isolation or there is a risk of reinstatement of the supply as

above, the circuit or equipment to be worked on should be securely isolated by one of the following

methods.

1 Isolation using a main switch or distribution board (DB) switch-disconnector

2 Isolation of individual circuits protected by circuit breakers

3 Isolation of individual circuits

4 Isolation of individual circuits protected by fuse

Electrical Permits-to-Work to be obtain, putting up lotto tags

Suitable & proper signage

PROVING DEAD ISOLATED EQUIPMENTS OR CIRCUITS

Following isolation of equipment or circuits and before starting work it should be proved that the

parts

to be worked on and those nearby, are dead. It should never be assumed that equipment is dead

because

a particular isolation device has been placed in the off position.

The procedure for proving dead should be by use of a proprietary test lamp or two pole voltage

detector as

recommended in HSE Guidance Note GS38, Electrical test equipment for use by electricians. Non-

contact

voltage indicators (voltage sticks) and multi-meters should not be used. The test instrument should

be

proved to be working on a known live source or proprietary proving unit before and after use. All

phases

of the supply and the neutral should be tested and proved dead.

Formatted: Width: 8.27", Height: 11.69"


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INSTALLATION OF 1HOUR

RATED FIRE DOOR

ELEMENT PERFORMANCE CRITERIA

1 Interpret and comply with legal and

industry requirements relating to

the installation of hinged fire andsmoke doors

1.1Apply knowledge and understandingoflegislative and industry requirements,

including relevant state/territory building codes,tofire and smoke doorinstallations and

associated work procedures

1.2Confirm or clarify knowledge and understandingoflegislative and industry requirements,including state/territory building codes, where

necessary, with relevant persons using technical

terminology

1.3Identifypotential &actualbreaches oflegislative and industry

requirements relating to hingedfire and smokedoors and take action according

to organizational requirements and OHS policies

and procedures

2 Identify work processes and assemble

relevant parts for theinstallation of

the hinged fireand smoke door

2.1 Obtain all necessary work permits prior to

entering customer premises

2.2 Discuss customer requirements with customer

prior to proceeding to the installation

2.3 Apply relevant measurement processes tothe installationsite and hingedfire andsmoke doorcomponents

2.4 Identify and assemble components, tools and

equipment and materials required forthe installation

2.5 Identify and assemble appropriate hardwareite

door sealsrequired for the installation of a hingedf

smoke doorassembly

3 Install door frame 3.1 Checkwall construction compliance with therequired smoke resistance level

or fire resistance level3.2 Prepare, measure and markfire and

smoke doorframe

3.3 Securely fixfire and smoke doorframe in


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Painting works

accordance with the assignment instructions andmanufacturers' installationspecifications, includingany requirements for back filling in accordance with

Australian Standards4 Install door panel, doorhardware

and door seals

4.1 Prepare door panels and necessary hardware

items in accordance with assignment instructionsand manufacturers'installation specifications

4.2 Prepare, measure and markfire and

smoke doorforinstallation into the door frame andfor the provision of doorhardware

4.3 Hang door panel correctly in position inaccordance with assignment instructions and

manufacturers' installationspecifications with

particular attention to operational clearances4.4 Fix door hardware items and door seals in

accordance with work instructions and

manufacturers' installationspecifications4.5 Testfire and smoke doorfor defects and to

check for smooth operation according to standardtesting proceduresand in accordance with

manufacturers' specifications and AustralianStandards

4.6 Rectify and report on any impediments to

smooth operation according to organisational

requirements

5 Tag (mark) and certify fire and

smoke door

5.1 Tag (mark) and label fire and smokedoors according to the provisions of the relevant

Australian Standard andorganisational requirements5.2 Completefire and smoke doorschedule ofevidence of compliance (logbook) according to therelevant Australian Standard and according to

organisational and customer requirements

6 Complete installation 6.1 Ensure customer premises are left in a clean and

tidy condition on completion

of installation functions6.2 Complete documentation and distribute

according toorganisational and customer

requirements


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1. Keep all equipment clean, in good working condition and stored inits proper place.

2. Wear proper PPE when working including but not limited to thefollowing:

a. Clothing that fully covers the skin.

b. Gloves that resist specific paint ingredients.

c. Eye/face protection if recommended. (Safety glasses, goggles,hoods or face shields.)

d. Properly fitted respirators where required.

e. Use protective skin creams when appropriate.

3. Keep area clean and access to tools and equipment uncluttered.

4. Be aware of these potential hazards:

a. Rashes, swelling, etc., from short term skin contact.

b. Eye irritation; sore throat, cough, runny nose; nausea, fatigue,dizziness, flu-like symptoms from short term inhalation.

c. Liver, kidney, lung, digestive system, central nervous systemdamage from long term or massive exposure.

d. Sensitization (skin or respiratory) to any future exposure fromlong term or massive exposure.

e. Fire - avoid using paint in an unventilated area; never expose itto an ignition source such as a spark, lit cigarette or staticelectricity.

f. Explosion, especially if closed container is exposed to high heat.

g. Reactivity from mixing with or exposure to other substances,including water.

5. If you or a fellow worker are exposed to a paint hazard:

a. Inhalation - Get to fresh air immediately. Oxygen or artificialrespiration may be needed.


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b. Skin contact - Wash with soap and water after removing anycontaminated clothing.

c. Eye contact - flush eyes with warm water for at least fifteenminutes and get medical attention at once.

6. Know where the MSDS book is kept and how to read an MSDS.

Check labels of all chemicals and MSDS's for ingredients, hazard,

protective procedures and PPE.

7. Use water based paints when possible.

8. Don't mix paints with other substances without approval.

9. Keep paints away from ignition sources and NEVER smoke in areaswhere paint is used or stored. Post NO SMOKING signs.

10. Keep paint containers closed and tightly sealed when not in

use.

11. Don't use paint from a container with missing or illegiblelabel.

12. Use ventilation and protective equipment when scraping orremoving old paint to prevent lead exposure.

13. Store paint in fireproof cabinets in areas with moderatetemperatures, away from ignition sources and incompatiblematerials.

14. Wash before eating, drinking, smoking, applying makeup ortouching contact lenses.

15. Remove paint from skin according to manufacturersrecommendations, NEVER use solvents or thinners.

16. Contain and clean up any spills immediately, according toMSDS and supervisor's instructions.

17. Dispose of empty paint cans and combustible rags promptly inproper receptacles.

18. Dispose of excess paint, thinners and solvents according toproper procedures.

19. Be prepared for an emergency. Fast, proper first aid is criticalwhen someone is overexposed to a paint product. For inhalationrelated problems, get the person to fresh air right away. If needed


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provide oxygen or artificial respiration. For rashes or other skinproblems, remove contaminated clothing and wash thoroughly withsoap and water. When paint comes in contact with the eyes, flush

eyes with warm water for at least 15 minutes and get immediatemedical care.

20. Report all accidents to your supervisor immediately.

Installation of lighting,& vent fam

Tools / Equipment Hand tools, ladders / scaffolding, clamp on meter

Materials Required Fixtures, , hangers, lamps, chain

PPE Hard hat, safety glasses, safety boots

Sequence

- Complete a site inspection and hazard assessment

- Un-crate fixtures and complete a visual inspection for any damage and proper voltage

- Determine type of hangers to be used for this application

- Install hangers (ensure per standard)

- Fasten fixture to hangers

- Wire to code

- Install covers and lamps

- Check circuits where possible

Possible Hazards Shock, fall from ladder / scaffold

Precautions

Isolations

Disposal Normal clean up

Installations of footing formworks

There are three stages in formwork operations:


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assembly and erection

concrete placement

stripping and dismantling.

Formwork must always be constructed according to good,

safe, and sound carpentry practice. There must be

adequate braces and supports

reliable bearing surfaces, especially where wood

structures are involved

adequate ties, bolts, or bracing to prevent movement

or bulging.

The concrete is to manually mix & poured into the formwork and let to dry.

Areas to be barricaded with proper signanges.

After curing is complete, formwors are to be remove by using crowbars.

It is very important to clear all the formworks from the worksite for the possibility of trip n fall

hazards, pinch poins, obstructin,

Mortar Mixes

Grade Mix Properties Applications

M4 1:0:4

Durable, low

workability (which

can be improved with

the addition of lime or

Used in reinforced brickwork.

(Must be used with Exposure

Grade bricks in severe marine

environments.)


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a water thickener)

M4 1:1/2:41/2Strongest, least

permeable

Used in reinforced brickwork

where the reinforcing is separatelyprotected from corrosion.

Structural applications, non-

reinforced brickwork, retaining

walls, fences and seafront

applications. Preferred for fade-

resistant pigmented mortar. (Must

be used with Exposure Grade

bricks in marine environments.)

M3 1:1:6General-purpose

mortar

Generally used when the

properties of the brick are

unknown. Used for most buildingapplications, including load-

bearing walls.

M2 1:2:9

Quite forgiving and

with a good balance

between strength,

flexibility and

permeability. Prone

to fading, so not

suitable for colouring

with pigments

Suitable for internal brickwork,

brickwork above a damp-proof

course, fireplaces and barbeques.

M1 1:3:12

Weakest of standard

composition mortars.

Combination of

flexibility due to lime

and early strength

due to cement.

Should only be used for

restoration work to match existing

construction, e.g. for heritage

masonry.

M1 0:1:3Straight lime mortar.

Low early strength.

Should only be used for

restoration work to match existing

construction, e.g. for heritage

masonry.

1. Gather all the materials you need to start your project before beginning.When you have mixed the masonry cement and started laying brick, you haveto use the mortar up and strike your joints before quitting.

2. 2


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Pour a concretefoundationif you do not have an existing slab,brickledge, or footing to work on. This must be level and below the grade ofthe finished ground so that the brick is all you see when your wall is finished.

3Layout the wall you are going to work on, and mark openings like doors,windows, and any architectural appertanances you are including in your

design. 4

Place brick along the length of your foundation in stacks you can reacheasily from your work area.

3. 5

Space "mortar boards" about every six feet along the wall, or on eachside. This will allow you to grab mortar with your trowel as you work, and nothave to move around too much.

4. 6

Mix your masonry cement, or mortar. This can be done in a wheelbarrow ora mortar box if don't have access to a mortar mixer or cement mixer. Basically,to mix the mortar, a ratio of three parts masonry sand (builders sand, if it isvery clean), to one part masonry cement. Add water to the dry materials andmix to a consistancy like pudding. Too dry, and it will be difficult to "set" thebrick in the mortar bed, too wet and the brick will sag.

5. 7

Place a few shovels of mortar on each board, splashing the board firstwith water so the mortar "keeps", or stays wet enough to use.

6. 8

Start at a corner, and using the trowel, scoop up mortar and place a 4 to6 inch wide band on the footing or slab about 1 inch thick. Set a brick
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down in this "bed" of mortar, and tap it down with the handle of your trowel,until it is level, parallel to the line of your wall, and the edge is plumb. Repeatwith 6 or 8 brick, using the edge of the trowel to cut away the excess mortar

that is shoved out from under the brick as you go.

7. 9Set another course of brick, starting at the corner, on top of the firstcourse. If you are turning the corner you began at, you will set each coursehalf a brick back from the previous course, so that each course is staggeredhalf a brick. If you are turning the corner where you began, put the first brick inthe first course so that it is square, and lay a few brick in this direction also.

8. 10Keep the height of the brick the same using a spirit or carpenter's level,and keep the end joints (head joints) equal. The standard bed and head

joints are 3/8 inch, but this can be adjusted to your preference, up to 3/4 inchor even more.

9. 11Lay up several courses on each end of the wall you are going to lay first,these are the "leads", then you can attach a piece of builder's line at thetop of each brick as you lay up the remaining brick in this wall, keepingthem aligned and level.

10. 12

Strike the head and bed joints with a "jointer" or "joint striker" when themortar has begun to set. The jointer is a piece of tubing whose diameter isthe same or slightly larger than your joint spacing, bent in an "S" shape. Holdthe tool on one end, and rub it along the mortar joint between your brick withthe curved portion of the tool to smooth out the mortar joint.

11. 13

Brush the face of the brick with a "foxtail" brush to wipe away excessmortar and finish smoothing the joint. It takes a lot of practice to be able totell when the mortar is set properly to strike and brush the joints, but basically,


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when it is hard enough to touch with your finger and not leave an impression,it is ready.

12. 14

Continue laying the brick until you are level with the leads you laid up,then begin at the ends or corners laying either in another direction, orstraight up with another lead.

PRECAUTIONS

Mortar mix should be cleaned off skin if you come in contact with it. Itcontains lime, a caustic chemical which can cause burns with prolongedexposure.

Do not breathe dust when mixing or handling dry ingredients. Wear safety glasses. Use the proper tools and techniques when cutting brick. Area to be barricade with in 2m of the wall whereas sufficient bracing to be install to avoid wall

from collapsing.

OXY CUTTING OF STEEL PLATES

1. Understand what the oxygen/acetylene torch actually does. The initialcombustion of the acetylene gas heats the steel to a molten state, then, byadding a pressurized stream of oxygen, the steel is ignited and burned awaythrough the kerf of your cut. This is why this process is called burningsteel,and steel and carbon steel are the only materials it is used to cut. Aluminum,stainless steel, and other metals and alloys can not be cut with a cutting torch.

2. 2

Get the proper tools for the job. Besides the torch assembly, described indetail throughout the steps, you should have the following:


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o Fire extinguisher. For most uses, a compressed air and water extinguisher willwork, but if oil, plastics, or other combustible materials are around, an "ABC"extinguisher is recommended.

Marking and measuring tools. These will help you lay out your cut correctly,and can include a soapstone marker, a square, and a rule.

o Safety equipment, including a set of cutting goggles and heavy leather gloves.o Proper clothing is a must. Do not wear loose fitting clothes, clothes made from

flammable synthetic materials, or clothing with frayed or torn edges that mayignite more easily than tightly woven clean hemmed garments. This alsomeans no loose pockets of cuffed pants or shirts that would allow slag tocatch and burn through. Fire retardant clothing is recommended but if notavailable wear well fitting cotton clothes. Nylon and most other commonsynthetic clothes with rapidly burn if caught on fire!

o Sturdy leather soled work boots are recommended, since rubber soled shoes

will allow hot slag to burn through pretty quickly. Laced boots are preferable,since slag can drop into the top of pull on types like engineer's boots andcowboy boots.

o A striker, for correctly igniting the torch. Using matches or a cigarette lighter isvery dangerous, a striker is made especially for igniting torches, and reducesthe risk of serious injuries.

3. 3

Set up your work in a safe environment. Working on bare earth or aconcrete slab is highly recommended, since sparks are going to fly many feetfrom the cutting location. Dry material like paper, sawdust, cardboard, and

dried plant foliage or grass can be ignited from 15 feet or further. Do not allowthe flame to contact concrete especially fresh concrete as it will spall and sendsmall bits of concrete flying.

4. 4

Place the stock you are going to cut on supports at a comfortableworking height. A steel table is ideal, since you can brace yourself to steadythe torch while heating and burning it. Never use a surface that is flammableor has flammable materials spilled on it. Also, beware of material that hasmetallic oxide coatings, such as lead paint, chromate primers, and zincplating, since inhaling the fumes from these can have a toxic effect on thetorch operator.


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5. 5

Mark your cuts with a soapstone marker, allowing for grinding if aprecise fit is required. You may use a permanent marker if a soapstone isnot available, but the mark will tend to disappear just ahead of the torch flame.For very precise cuts, you may find a specialized jig will give better results, butthat is not within the scope of this article.

6. 6

.

Hook up the gauges to the appropriate tanks. Typically oxygen tanks andhoses are green, and acetylene hoses are red, and they are pair together withthe ends separated to attach to their respective tanks. The acetylene hose willhave reversedthreads, and the fitting will be a maletype, to preventaccidental switching of these two hoses/gauges. Tighten them with the correctsize wrench, since the fittings are made of brass, and can easily be damaged.

7. 7

Make sure the acetylene regulator is turned off by backingthe Teehandle out a few turns, then turn the gas valve on top of the tankon. Turning it "one turn of the wrist". This is for safety reasons. Follow thefollowing points to make sure the gas is regulated to the correctpressure. Never allow acetylene gas pressure to exceed 15 PSI, at higherpressures, acetylene becomes unstable, and may ignite spontaneously orexplode.

o After turning on the main acetylene tank valve, open the regulator valve byturning the tee handle clockwise. This should be done very slowly, whilewatching the low pressure gauge. Open only until the pressure indicated is

between 5 and 8 PSI.o Open the gas valve on the cutting torch handle until you hear gas escaping to

vent the atmosphere from the acetylene hose, then observe the low pressuregauge to see if the pressure remains steady during flow, to assure you havethis regulator set correctly.

o Close the acetylene valve on the torch, and continue to the next step, toattach and adjust the oxygen regulator.


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8. 8

Turn the oxygen regulator pressure off or down by backing the regulatorgauge up a few turns, then proceed with the following steps to adjust theoxygen pressure.

o Open the main oxygen tank valve all the way. The valve is a double seatedvalve and if not opened all the way the oxygen will leak out around the valvestem o-ring because of the high cylinder pressure or 2200 psi.

o Open the regulator valve slowly, watching the low pressure gauge as you doso, until the pressure reads between 25 and 40 PSI.

o Open the oxygen valve on the torch to allow the atmosphere to vent out of thehose. Note that there are two valves on the oxygen side of the cutting torchassembly. The valve near the hose connections will control the flow of oxygento the mixing chamber for the combustion, or heating operation of the torch aswell as the oxygen jet side, so no oxygen should vent from the torch tip untileither the cutting lever is depressed or the valve further up the torch isopened. To begin with, open this first valve several turns, to insure sufficientoxygen is available for both functions. Next, open the forward valve slightlyuntil the hose is purged, about 3 to 5 seconds for a 25 foot hose.

o Close the forward valve.

9. 9

Put your gloves and goggles on before lighting the torch. Check yourwork area one more time for combustible materials, and you should be readyto go.

10. 10

Prepare to light the torch. Open the acetylene valve again, allowing theoxygen remaining in the mixing chamber to purge for a few seconds, then shutthe valve until you can barely here gas escaping. Holding the striker in front ofthe torch tip, with the tip facing inside the striker (or toward the ignition source,

for electronic strikers), squeeze the handle. A small yellow flame shouldappear at the tip when the sparks from the striker ignite the acetylene.

11. 11


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Adjust the acetylene valve until you have a yellow flame about 10 incheslong. Make sure the flame begins at the torch tip, if too much acetylene issupplied the flame willjump, or be blown away from the tip.

12. 12

Turn the forward oxygen valve on slowly. The flame color will turn fromyellow to light blue as sufficient oxygen is supplied to complete combust theacetylene. Increase the oxygen until the inner blue flame begins to shrink backtoward the tip. This flame doesn't appear in the photos provided since thecamera's discretion on this bright light source failed to distinguish it from theouter flame.

13. 13

.

Open the oxygen valve more to increase the flame size until the innerflame is about the length of the thickness of the steel you are intendingto cut. For 3/8 inch cold-rolled plate, or mild, steel, a 1/2 inch inner flame isabout right. If you here a blowing noise, or the blue flame seems erratic andfeathery, there is probably too much oxygen at the flame, reduce it until theflame is stable, and the inner flame is a clean, cone shape.

14. 14

Bring the tip of the inner flame to the surface of the steel you are goingto cut. You will need to heat the steel with this flame until a molten pool ofmetal forms and luminesces at this location. For 1/4 inch plate steel at roomtemperature, this should take about 45 seconds, it will take longer for heaviermaterial, or material at low temperatures. Keep the tip of the flame steady,and about 3/8 of an inch from the metal's surface to concentrate the heat in

one location.

15. 15


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Push the cutting valve handle down slowly to release the oxygen jetwhich ignites the molten steel. If a violent reaction instantly starts, the steelhas ignited, and you can gradually increase pressure until the jet is cutting

completely through the metal. If no reaction occurs, the metal is not hotenough to ignite, so you can let the oxygen handle release and allow theflame to heat the metal more.

16. 16

Begin moving the torch tip slowly along the line of your cut when the jetis cutting through the steel. You should observe that almost all of the sparksand molten slag are being blown out the back or bottom of your cut. If this flowof superheated material slows or backs up, slow your forward speed or stopand let the metal heat more. It is better to cut too slowly than to try to cut tofast.

17. 17

Continue cutting until you have partedthe metal, or finished the cut.Make sure the slag and any dropsof heated metal do not get underfoot. Evensturdy boot soles will burn through if you find yourself standing on a largepiece.

18. 18

Cool the workpiece with plenty of water, or allow to cool if you are in nohurry. Be aware that dipping a superheated piece of steel into a bucket orstream of cold water will create and instantaneous cloud of very hot steam.

o

This is only for mild steel as this will affect quench and temper type steels ifcooled in water.

19. 19


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Chip the slag from the cut, or grind the cut smooth if a more precise fit isdesired.

for work on lv electrical equipment or circuits

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