formulation guidelines full spectrum...rinse and towel-dry the hair. spray on 1 oz/30 ml of damage...

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RED

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E YELLOW GREEN BLUE VIOLETDark Y/O Dark B/G Dark B/V D

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Light B/B

Light V/B

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O/R

Light Y/O

Pastel Blue

Pastel Violet

Pastel Y/O

formulation guidelinesnatural series and intense series

formulation guidelinesextra lift pastel blondes

usage guidelinespure pigments

4 simple steps to hair color formulationAlways remember to patch test before every hair color application.1. Identify the guest’s natural level.2. Determine the guest’s desired level and tone.3. Choose the formula at the desired level.4. Determine the appropriate volume of color catalyst™ conditioning

creme developer based on the desired levels of lift.

formulation guidelines for creating intense copper, intense violet/red and intense red seriesFor the most vibrant color results, mix intense base + natural shade + pure tone or red pure pigment.

mixing and processingMix full spectrum™ protective permanent creme hair color natural series and intense series formulas plus chosen pure tone or pure pigment in a 1:1 ratio with color catalyst creme developer. Please refer to customization chart for hair color formulations. Process according to color catalyst strength (20–45 minutes at room temperature).

3 simple steps 1. Determine the guest’s desired tonal value and select the

appropriate pastel tone to mix with extra lifting creme.

2. Determine the desired amount of lift and select the appropriate volume of color catalyst creme developer. (You can lighten up to a maximum of 5 levels with extra lifting creme and pastel tone formulas.)

3. Always mix extra lift pastel blonde series with color catalyst creme developer in a 1:2 ratio.

• To get pure primary and secondary colors on pre-lightened hair, mix pure pigments and 5 volume color catalyst™ creme developer in a 1:1 ratio and process for 10–20 minutes.

• To add tonality to natural series shades 3–6, replace pure tones with pure pigments at up to double the amount recommended for the level.

• To intensify a tonal family shade at levels 3–6, customize with pure tone at the recommended amount for the level and add up to an equal amount of pure pigment. (Pure pigments are not recommended for use on levels 7–10 to achieve a natural-looking result, because of the concentration of dyes.)

full spectrum™

protective permanent creme hair colorLet your artistry shine with full spectrum™ pure tones and pure pigments that give you the palette to create any shade you can imagine. Our fade-resistant formulas are up to 96% naturally derived* for essentially damage-free results — and they’re created with an environmental and social conscience that you and your guests can feel good about.

• Signature blend of protective plant oils — with organic sunflower, castor, jojoba, coconut and babassu oils — conditions hair and infuses it with amazing shine.

• Fade-resistant formula contains solely oxidative dyes that develop inside the cortical fiber to lock in long-lasting color that stays true from service to service.

• Patented green tea creates a broader spectrum of color — providing the ultimate artist’s palette for colorists.

• Patented red tea’s powerful anti-oxidant properties help protect the hair color formula.

• Candelilla wax creates a rich, creamy consistency that allows for precise, drip-free applications that can be applied with a bottle or a bowl and brush.

designed to customizeFull spectrum™ hair color was designed for ultimate customization through a simple component system of base + tone.

FIRST SELECT YOUR DESIRED BASE

natural series: Natural shades that can be used alone or customized with pure tones and pure pigments for a complete range of tonal families.

intense base: A virtually colorless base that intensifies red shades when customized with natural series and pure tones or pure pigments.

extra lifting creme: A high-lift base designed to be used on its own or customized with pastel tones to create any high-lift blonde shade from golden to platinum.

full spectrum™ universal ØN: A virtually colorless, ammonia-free base that can be intermixed with any base, tone or pigment. It enhances hair with incredible condition and shine for the ideal glossing treatment.

NEXT CUSTOMIZE YOUR BASE WITH TONE

pure tones: A combination of primary and secondary tones that can be used to customize multiple bases to create a range of tonal families.

pure pigments: The full spectrum of pure primary and secondary colors for an unlimited palette. Use them alone for pure colors or to customize any base.

pastel tones: Designed to specifically customize with extra lifting creme to create any high-lift blonde shade from golden to platinum.

LEVELS OF LIFT

COLOR CATALYST VOLUME NEEDED

PROCESSING TIME

4 40 Volume 45 minutes




0–1 5 Volume 20 minutes

LEVELS OF LIFT

COLOR CATALYST VOLUME NEEDED

PROCESSING TIME(without heat)



working with natural remaining pigmentNatural Remaining Pigment (N.R.P.) is the tonal value that the hair contributes as it lightens. It is important to determine the N.R.P. the hair will contribute at the desired level prior to coloring the hair. After you identify the N.R.P. at the desired level, determine whether you want to enhance or neutralize the N.R.P. and select your shade accordingly, using the color wheel.

tonal result guidelinesto neutralize: Choose the tone that is opposite from the N.R.P at the target level, on other side of the color wheel.

to intensify: Choose tones that are the same as the N.R.P. at the target level.

LEVEL DESCRIPTOR NATURAL REMAINING PIGMENT COMPLEMENTARY PIGMENT

10 Lightest Blonde Pale YellowViolet

9 Very Light Blonde Yellow

8 Light Blonde Yellow/Orange Blue/Violet

7 Medium Blonde Orange Blue

6 Dark Blonde Red/Orange Blue/Green

5 Lightest Brown

Red Green4 Light Brown

3 Medium Brown

2 Dark Brown

1 Black

full spectrum™

color wheel and natural remaining pigment

*From plants and non-petroleum minerals.

1 : 1 ratio

1 : 2 ratio

BASE + + =TONE COLORCATALYST

HAIR COLOR FORMULA

1950

-109

CUSTOMIZED COLOR CREATED WITH A CONSCIENCE

aveda full spectrum™ permanent hair color chart

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art full spectrum™ permanent hair color guidelines

hair color cleansingWhen a guest with colored hair desires a lighter shade, the previous hair color must be removed (hair color does not lift hair color).

formulation and mixingIdentify the level of colored hair. Determine guest’s desired level and tone. Use the following chart to determine the appropriate formula.

If no change has occurred in 10 minutes, rinse the hair. Remix the next strongest formula and reapply. Enlightener will work effectively for up to one hour.

1. application and processing: Section dry, unwashed hair into quadrants. Begin application in the darkest area. Apply quickly and saturate the hair thoroughly. Observe lightening and strand-test frequently until the desired level of lift or removal of tone has been achieved.

2. removal: Rinse the hair thoroughly and shampoo lightly with color conserve™ shampoo. Rinse and towel-dry the hair. Spray on 1 oz/30 ml of damage remedy™ equalizing solution and comb through to distribute evenly.

3. recolor: Apply the desired full spectrum™ hair color shade.Note: A test strand is recommended to ensure desired results on previously processed hair.

REMOVE TONE LIGHTEN 1 LEVEL LIGHTEN 2 LEVELS LIGHTEN 3 LEVELS

1 scoop enlightener™ powder lightener




1 oz / 30 mlshampure™ shampoo




1 oz / 30 mlHOT water

1 oz / 30 ml10 volume

color catalyst™


color catalyst™


color catalyst™

VIBRANCY GUIDE

CATEGORYBASE TONE

NATURAL SERIES INTENSE BASE PURE TONES

SOFT 40 g + 50% less for level

STANDARD 40 g + recommended for level

STRONG 40 g + 50% more for level

BRIGHT 20 g 20 g + double for level

INTENSE 10 g 30 g + double for level

questions? Call the Aveda Technical Hotline at 1-888-HAIR-SØS (424-7707) USA.

universal ØNUniversal ØN is designed for use with all 3 full spectrum™ hair color lines — permanent, deep™ and deposit-only color treatment — for ultimate customization. When using the formulas on the chart below, mix with 5 volume color catalyst™ creme developer.

UNIVERSAL ØN CUSTOMIZATION GUIDE

CATEGORYBASE TONE

UNIVERSAL ØN NATURAL SERIES PURE TONE

SOFT(color refreshing or glossing treatment)

40 g + 0 g – 8 g

STANDARD(toning pre-lightened hair or

toning down)20 g 20 g + 0 g – 8 g

STRONG(clear tone) 40 g + 10 g – 20 g

guidelines for grey coverageUse the guidelines below to get the level of grey coverage your guest wants.

FULL SPECTRUM™ PROTECTIVE PERMANENT CREME HAIR COLOR

natural seriesfor natural grey coverage

20 volume color catalyst™

45 minutes

natural/natural seriesfor maximum grey coverage

20 volume color catalyst™

30 minutes

EXTRA LIFT PASTEL BLONDES INTENSITY GUIDE

CATEGORY EXTRA LIFTING CREME PASTEL TONES

SOFT 40 g + 2 gSTANDARD 40 g + 4 g

STRONG 40 g + 8 g

natural series customization intense series customization

level tone natural natural/natural ash intense ash gold copper violet/red red intense copper intense violet/red intense red

ø universal øn customizable colorless base Universal øn is recommended for customization with all Bases, Pure Tones and Pure Pigments

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elC

Not recommended for customization Not recommended for customization

extra lifting creme (elc)

Extra Light Platinum Blonde40 g elC

4 g Pastel Violet

Extra Light Ash Blonde40 g elC

4 g Pastel Blue

Extra Light Golden Blonde40 g elC

4 g Pastel Yellow/Orange

pastel tones

lig

ht

1010natural

lightest blonde

10 n/nlightest blonde40 g 10natural

2 g Light Natural/Natural

10 v/B lightest ash blonde

40 g 10natural2 g Light Violet/Blue

10 B/Blightest intense ash blonde

40 g 10natural2 g Light Blue/Blue

10 Y/O lightest golden blonde

40 g 10natural2 g Light Yellow/Orange

10 O/r lightest copper blonde

40 g 10natural2 g Light Orange/Red

10 O/rlightest intense copper blonde

10 g 10natural30 g intense Base

4 g Light Orange/Red

99natural

very light blonde

9 n/nvery light blonde

40 g 9natural4 g Light Natural/Natural

9 v/Bvery light ash blonde


9 B/Bvery light intense ash blonde


9 Y/O very light golden blonde


9 O/r very light copper blonde


9 O/rvery light intense copper blonde



88natural

light blonde

8 n/nlight blonde40 g 8natural


8 v/Blight ash blonde


8 B/Blight intense ash blonde


8 Y/O light golden blonde


8 O/r light copper blonde


8 O/rlight intense copper blonde



77natural

medium blonde

7 n/nmedium blonde40 g 7natural


7 v/Bmedium ash blonde


7 B/Bmedium intense ash blonde


7 Y/O medium golden blonde


7 O/r medium copper blonde


7 O/rmedium intense copper blonde



light pure tones light natural/natural light violet/blue light blue/blue light yellow/orange lightlight orange/red light orange/red

dar

k

66natural

dark blonde

6 n/ndark blonde

40 g 6natural2 g Dark Natural/Natural

6 B/vdark ash blonde

40 g 6natural2 g Dark Blue/Violet

6 B/Gdark intense ash blonde

40 g 6natural2 g Dark Blue/Green

6 Y/O dark golden blonde

40 g 6natural2 g Dark Yellow/Orange

6 r/O dark copper blonde

40 g 6natural2 g Dark Red/Orange

6 v/r lightest violet/red

40 g 6natural2 g Dark Violet/Red

6 r lightest red

40 g 6natural2 g Red Pure Pigment

6 r/Odark intense copper blonde


4 g Dark Red/Orange

6 v/rlightest intense violet/red


4 g Dark Violet/Red

6 rlightest intense red


4 g Red Pure Pigment

55natural

lightest brown

5 n/nlightest brown40 g 5natural

4 g Dark Natural/Natural

5 B/vlightest ash brown


5 B/Glightest intense ash brown


5 Y/O lightest golden brown


5 r/O lightest copper brown


5 v/rvery light violet/red


5 r very light red40 g 5natural


5 r/Olightest intense copper brown


8 g Dark Red/Orange

5 v/rvery light intense violet/red


8 g Dark Violet/Red

5 rvery light intense red



44natural

light brown

4 n/nlight brown

40 g 4natural6 g Dark Natural/Natural

4 B/vlight ash brown


4 B/Glight intense ash brown


4 Y/O light golden brown


4 r/O light copper brown


4 v/r light violet/red


4 rlight red


4 r/Olight intense copper brown


12 g Dark Red/Orange

4 v/rlight intense violet/red


12 g Dark Violet/Red

4 rlight intense red



33natural

medium brown

3 n/nmedium brown40 g 3natural

8 g Dark Natural/Natural

3 B/vmedium ash brown


3 B/Gmedium intense ash brown


3 Y/O medium golden brown


3 r/O medium copper brown


3 v/r medium violet/red


3 r medium red


3 r/Omedium intense copper brown


16 g Dark Red/Orange

3 v/rmedium intense violet/red


16 g Dark Violet/Red

3 rmedium intense red



dark pure tones dark natural/natural dark blue/violet dark blue/green dark yellow/orange dark red/orange dark violet/red red pure pigment dark red/orange dark violet/red red pure pigment

2

Not recommended for customization

2natural dark brown

11natural

black

pure pigments blue green yellow orange violet red

color balancing guidelinesrefresh color (if the color has lost tone or lightened up to 1 level)1. Apply desired full spectrum™ permanent hair color shade to new growth. 2. Process for appropriate time for strength of color catalyst™

creme developer.3. Add water to the hair, work mixture through mid-lengths to the ends and

emulsify for 2–5 minutes before rinsing.4. Rinse thoroughly and shampoo with color conserve™ shampoo. Condition

with color conserve™ pHinish.™

reestablish color (if the color has lost tone or lightened up to 2–3 levels)1. Apply desired full spectrum™ permanent hair color shade to new growth. 2. Apply the same shade with 5 volume color catalyst™ creme developer

through mid-lengths to the ends, or apply matching full spectrum™ deposit-only color treatment shade through mid-lengths to the ends.

3. Process for the last 20 minutes of the retouch development time.4. Rinse thoroughly and shampoo with color conserve™ shampoo. Condition

with color conserve™ pHinish.™

COLOR BALANCING GUIDE

CATEGORYBASE TONE

NATURAL SERIES UNIVERSAL ØN PURE TONE PURE PIGMENT

LEAST TRANSLUCENT

MOST TRANSLUCENT

pure* 20 g

color balance 40 g + standard for level

natural tonal gloss 20 g 20 g + standard for

level

extreme gloss 20 g + 20 g OR 20 g

tonal gloss 40 g + 8 g

clear gloss 40 g*On hair pre-lightened to pale yellow.

precoloration guidelinesWhen a client’s desired shade is 3 or more levels darker than the previously colored hair, it may be necessary to precolor the hair. Precoloration provides the Natural Remaining Pigment (N.R.P.) required to support the desired shade. Use full spectrum™ deposit-only color treatment and universal ØN customizable base when precoloring hair.

1. formulation: Identify the client’s natural level and the level and tone of the colored hair. Determine the desired level and tone. Select the appropriate precoloration formula based on the desired level.

2. mixing: Dispense the recommended amount of deposit-only color treatment natural series, ØN, pure tone and developer into a non-metallic mixing bowl or applicator bottle. Mix thoroughly.

3. equalizing: Spray on damage remedy™ equalizing solution and comb through. 4. application: Section dry, unwashed hair into quadrants. Take 1/4" partings

and apply only to hair strands that are 3 or more levels lighter than the desired result.

5. processing: Process at room temperature for 15–20 minutes.6. removal: Rinse the precoloration formula thoroughly from the hair. Shampoo

lightly with color conserve™ shampoo.7. recolor: Towel-dry hair. Apply desired shade of full spectrum™ permanent

hair color with 20 volume color catalyst™ creme developer. Process for 30 minutes.

TARGET TONE(FULL SPECTRUM™ PERMANENT HAIR COLOR)

TARGET LEVEL

NATURAL, ASH & GOLDLIGHT COPPER, DARK

COPPER, RED & VIOLET/RED

INTENSE LIGHT COPPER, DARK COPPER, RED &

VIOLET/RED

FULL SPECTRUM™ DEPOSIT-ONLY COLOR TREATMENT PRECOLORATION FORMULAS

10 N/A

9 20 g 9N + 20 g ØN + 4 g Light Y/O

20 g 9N + 20 g ØN+ 4 g Light O/R


8 20 g 8N + 20 g ØN+ 6 g Light Y/O


10 g 8N + 30 g ØN+ 12 g Light O/R

7 20 g 7N + 20 g ØN+ 8 g Light Y/O


10 g 7N + 30 g ØN+ 16 g Light O/R

6 20 g 6N + 20 g ØN+ 1 g Dark Y/O + 1 g Dark R/O

20 g 6N + 20 g ØN+ 4 g Dark R/O, Dark R/R or

Dark R/V


Dark R/V



Dark R/V


Dark R/V



Dark R/V


Dark R/V



Dark R/V


Dark R/V



Dark R/V


Dark R/V



Dark R/V


Dark R/V

pastel violet pastel blue pastel yellow/orange

mixing for customized resultsUse the guidelines below to create customized formulas with your guest’s desired level of vibrancy or translucency. Mix hair color formulas in a 1:1 ratio with color catalyst™ creme developer.

natural series guidelines for mixingFor natural results with a wide spectrum of tonal families, mix natural shade + pure tone.

40grams

NATURAL SERIES SHADE

LIGHT OR DARK PURE TONES

COLORCATALYST™ 1:1 RATIO

TOTAL COLOR MIXTURE

10Natural6Natural 40 g + 2 g + 40 ml = 82 ml9Natural5Natural 40 g + 4 g + 40 ml = 84 ml8Natural4Natural 40 g + 6 g + 40 ml = 86 ml7Natural3Natural 40 g + 8 g + 40 ml = 88 ml

intense series guidelines for mixingFor vibrant color results, mix intense base + natural shade + pure tone or red pure pigment.

40grams

NATURAL SERIES SHADE

INTENSE BASE

LIGHT OR DARK PURE TONES OR RED PURE

PIGMENT


TOTAL COLOR MIXTURE

10Natural6Natural 10 g + 30 g + 4 g + 40 ml = 84 ml9Natural5Natural 10 g + 30 g + 8 g + 40 ml = 88 ml8Natural4Natural 10 g + 30 g + 12 g + 40 ml = 92 ml7Natural3Natural 10 g + 30 g + 16 g + 40 ml = 96 ml

extra lift pastel blondes series guidelines for mixingFor blondes that achieve up to 5 levels of lift with refinement, mix extra lifting creme + pastel tones.

EXTRA LIFTING CREME PASTEL TONES


TOTAL COLOR MIXTURE

40 g + 4 g + 80 ml = 124 ml

formulation guidelines full spectrum...rinse and towel-dry the hair. spray on 1 oz/30 ml of damage...

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