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Foster Guide

Contents About Us ...................................................................................................................................... 1

Funding: ................................................................................................................................... 1

General Foster Information ........................................................................................................ 1

Requirements to foster: .......................................................................................................... 1

Types of Animals That Need Foster Homes: ........................................................................ 2

Important Contacts: ................................................................................................................ 2

Safety & Incident Reports: ..................................................................................................... 2

Preparing your home: ............................................................................................................. 3

Example Kitten Set-up: ....................................................................................................... 3

Example Puppy Set-up: ....................................................................................................... 4

Daily Care .................................................................................................................................... 4

Kittens: ..................................................................................................................................... 4

Neonatal care: ...................................................................................................................... 4

Weaning: ............................................................................................................................... 5

Weaned kittens (5-8 weeks): ............................................................................................... 6

Caring for Moms with Kittens/Expecting Mothers: .............................................................. 6

Expecting mothers: ............................................................................................................. 6

Adult cats: ................................................................................................................................ 7

Puppies: ................................................................................................................................... 7

Neonatal puppies: ................................................................................................................ 7

Weaning: ............................................................................................................................... 9

Weaned Puppies (4-9 weeks): ............................................................................................ 9

Caring for Mom with Puppies/Expecting Mothers: .............................................................. 9

Expecting mothers: ........................................................................................................... 10

Adult dogs: ............................................................................................................................ 11

Socialization, Training, and Enrichment ................................................................................. 11

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Timid Cats & Kittens: ............................................................................................................ 11

Kittens: ............................................................................................................................... 11

Adult cats: .......................................................................................................................... 11

Timid Dogs: ............................................................................................................................ 12

Training: ................................................................................................................................. 12

Biting & Chewing: .............................................................................................................. 12

Crate Training: ................................................................................................................... 13

Litter box training: ............................................................................................................. 13

Other training: .................................................................................................................... 14

Enrichment: ........................................................................................................................... 14

Cleaning & Sanitation ............................................................................................................... 15

Medical Information & Procedures .......................................................................................... 16

Puppy Quarantine: ................................................................................................................ 16

Common Medical Issues: ..................................................................................................... 17

Upper respiratory infection (URI): .................................................................................... 17

Conjunctivitis: .................................................................................................................... 17

Vomiting: ............................................................................................................................ 18

Diarrhea: ............................................................................................................................. 18

Parasites: ............................................................................................................................ 19

Dehydration: ....................................................................................................................... 19

Lethargy (lack of energy): ................................................................................................. 20

Hypoglycemia: ................................................................................................................... 20

Ear mites: ........................................................................................................................... 21

Fleas & ticks: ...................................................................................................................... 21

Ringworm: .......................................................................................................................... 21

Mange: ................................................................................................................................ 22

Parvovirus: ......................................................................................................................... 22

Panleukopenia: .................................................................................................................. 23

Distemper: .......................................................................................................................... 24

Mastitis: .............................................................................................................................. 24

Fading Kitten/Puppy Syndrome: ...................................................................................... 25

Emergency versus Non-emergency: ................................................................................... 25

Foster Failing ............................................................................................................................ 26

Advertising your Fosters ......................................................................................................... 27

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Coming back to SCHS for Adoption ....................................................................................... 28

Helpful Outside Resources ...................................................................................................... 28

Thank you! ................................................................................................................................. 29

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Thank you for helping us save more lives through the gift of fostering. Because of your compassion and willingness to open your home to shelter animals in need, you’re making a big difference in the lives of animals who need you.

With hundreds of animals entering our care each month, we simply could not care for them all without the support of our foster families.

We hope you will find your foster experience to be rewarding and fulfilling. Thank you for choosing to work alongside us to assist animals in need.

About Us Incorporated in 1983, Stephens County Humane Society (SCHS) is a private, 501(c)3 non-profit organization. We are a safe haven for homeless dogs and cats in need of a New Leash on Life, be they owner surrenders or country strays.

Historically, SCHS provides shelter, food, medical care and lots of love to 1,200 - 1,400 animals per year. SCHS operates its own animal shelter located in Duncan, Oklahoma. From newborn puppies and kittens, to senior dogs and cats looking for their retirement home, we help them all; we love them all. We work tirelessly on adoption and rescue efforts to ensure animals entrusted to our care are rehomed successfully and as quickly as possible.

All efforts are channeled into saving lives - through shelter and care, through adoption and rescue efforts, through helping the public better care for and keep their own pets, through educating about vaccinations, heartworm prevention, spaying and neutering and through advocating for loving, caring pet ownership.

Funding:

The Stephens County Humane Society is a private, non-profit organization. While we do not receive any funding from any government agencies, we do work closely with local municipal animal control departments throughout Stephens County and neighboring counties. We function solely on the basis of donations, memberships and adoption fees.

General Foster Information

Requirements to foster:

● Be 18 years or older. ● Be willing and able to take your fosters to follow-up veterinary appointments every 2-3

weeks. ● Keep your foster pets separate from household pets for two weeks in a spare room. If

this is not possible, we will provide you with a playpen or kennel for them to stay in.

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● Feed, replace litter and keep their area clean. ● Monitor their daily health. ● Socialize them (play and cuddle!).

Types of Animals That Need Foster Homes:

● Puppies or kittens too young to be adopted ● A mother with her litter of kittens or puppies ● Puppies during 7 day quarantine ● Timid dogs or cats that need socialization and love ● Injured dogs or cats recovering from surgery ● Medical needs / elderly dogs or cats ● Any animal when the shelter becomes overcrowded

In this manual, you will find guidance and helpful tips to ensure success for the duration of your foster animal’s stay. For additional questions, please contact the foster coordinator.

Important Contacts:

Shelter contact information: Emergency contact information:

Main Line, 580-252-7387 Kelly Place, Foster Coordinator, 580-641-1503

Safety & Incident Reports:

By Oklahoma State law, we are required to quarantine any animal that bites and breaks the skin for ten days to observe the dog or cat for symptoms of rabies under the supervision of a veterinarian. This quarantine is done not to punish the animal, but instead to ensure symptoms of rabies do not appear and that both you and the animal are safe. If your foster bites and breaks the skin of you or another person, please follow these steps:

● Thoroughly clean and flush the wound with clean water and soap immediately ● Report the incident to SCHS Staff and the Foster Coordinator; this is required by

law. You can reach the shelter at 580-252-7387 ● We recommend scheduling a visit with your doctor’s office. Though most bites heal on

their own, depending on the severity of the bite, you may require stitches or antibiotics to prevent infection. Please follow the advice of a medical professional to ensure your safety.

During the quarantine period, our staff will monitor the animal for any concerning symptoms. Once the quarantine has ended, staff will evaluate the animal’s behavior to determine if he/she may return to foster care.

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Preparing your home:

Before bringing your foster animals home, you’ll need to make sure they have a suitable place to stay. The room or area should follow these guidelines:

● Enclosed, indoor area where temperature can be controlled ● The space has been and can be disinfected between foster groups ● Separate from other household pets for at least two weeks ● Can withstand messes ● No breakable or small items within reach ● Electrical outlets and wires are blocked or out of the animal’s reach ● Secured windows ● Secured appliances (toilet seat down) ● Gate off any area the animal should not be in ● Prepared to have fun!

Example Kitten Set-up:

● Cats & kittens must be kept indoor ONLY

● Bathrooms make a great set-up for cats/kittens

● Store safely anything a kitten might knock off a counter, shelf, or table

● Remove any plants from the foster area. Many plants are toxic to kittens and cats!

● Keep kittens warm, but allow plenty of room to play and move away from the heat source.

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Example Puppy Set-up:

● Bathrooms make a great set up for

puppies as they are easier to clean

● Remember to remove rugs from the room; puppies may mistake them for potty pads!

● Puppies must remain indoors and crated or in a secure place when unattended

● Puppies are not permitted outside unless fully vaccinated and within a fenced yard

● Puppies may not visit public parks, dog parks, or other public venues without permission from the Foster Coordinator

Daily Care

Kittens:

Neonatal care:

Neonatal kittens are defined as kittens 0-3 weeks of age. During this time, kittens are extremely fragile and require around the clock care. Depending on their age, neonates may need to be fed as often as every two hours. Please use this chart from the Kitten Lady, Hannah Shaw, to determine feeding schedules for your bottle babies:

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Safe feeding for neonatal kittens requires they lay on their belly. Never feed a kitten on its back like a human baby, as this greatly increases the risk for aspiration and death. If formula comes out of a kitten’s nose, stop feeding immediately and gently pat the kitten on its back. The kitten will try to clear fluid from its lungs by sneezing. Should you hear crackling or popping when the kitten breathes, please contact the foster coordinator immediately. Never feed a kitten when it is cold, as this will likely lead to illness and even death. If your kitten is cold, warm it with a gentle heat source. Hold the kitten’s head gently with your fingers, and make sure to keep one finger on the throat to feel for swallowing. If a kitten is not swallowing, stop feeding immediately. The sign of a well-latched, good bottle feeding is the signature “ear wiggle.” You will notice kittens wiggle their ears as they suckle their bottle. Never force milk down a kitten by squeezing the bottle, as this can lead to aspiration. If a kitten refuses to eat, let it rest and try again. If your kitten has not eaten after two consecutive feedings, please contact the foster coordinator immediately. Kittens three weeks and under cannot thermoregulate, meaning they cannot control their body temperature and need a heat source to stay warm. In the absence of their mother, please ensure neonatals are kept warm using a Snuggle Safe disc or heat pad. Place a blanket in between the heat source and kitten to prevent burns, and please ensure there is ample room for the kitten to move away from the heat source if needed. The number one cause of death in many neonates is hypothermia, so please ensure your kitten is kept warm at all times. Once the kitten has eaten, it will need to be stimulated to go to the bathroom. Gently rub the kitten’s genitals using a tissue, soft paper towel, or baby wipe for about 30 seconds. Kittens should defecate once per day and urinate every time they are stimulated. A healthy kitten will have clear to light yellow urine; dark urine is an early sign of dehydration and should be taken seriously.

Weaning:

Kittens should not begin weaning until they are 5 weeks of age. Once they have reached this milestone, it is important to pay close attention to their weight and general health, as the weaning period is a difficult time for many kittens. If not monitored closely, kittens can quickly lose weight and deteriorate, leading to serious health issues and even death. Transitioning kittens should be fed gruel, which is a mixture of their formula and wet food, every 4 to 5 hours. If your kitten does not eat the mixture, please ensure you are offering supplemental bottle feedings. As your kittens become accustomed to gruel, gradually increase the thickness by adding less formula to prepare them for wet food.

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To encourage a finicky kitten to eat gruel, try place a small bit on your finger and rubbing it on the kitten’s gums. Your kitten will likely associate your hand with food due to bottle feedings, and it is much more likely he or she will be receptive to what you’re offering. Small litter boxes should be provided at this stage, as kittens generally gain the ability to use the bathroom on their own around 3-4 weeks of age. Please ensure you are using kitten safe, non-clumping litter. Kittens learn to use the litter box on their own, but may have accidents in the early weeks. Be patient with your kittens and allow them the chance to learn proper bathroom manners.

Weaned kittens (5-8 weeks):

Kittens 5 to 8 weeks are generally eating and going to the bathroom all on their own. They should have access to dry food and water at all times and be fed wet food 2-3 times per day to encourage weight gain. Clean their litter box once per day and make sure they have plenty of toys to keep them entertained. In just a few weeks, they’ll be ready for their forever homes!

Caring for Moms with Kittens/Expecting Mothers:

A mother and her young kittens are a great place to begin your foster journey! Typically, mom does all the hard work. All you need to do is ensure her food bowl and water bowl stay full, clean her litter once a day, and provide ample wet food to ensure she stays hydrated and full of nutrients for herself and her babies. For the most part, please leave the mom and babies be. The goal is for the mom to be content and happy. Take cues from her as to how much interaction she wants from her foster family. Always watch for signs of trouble such as crusty eyes, weight loss, rejection (mom moves a kitten away from its siblings), or swollen/tender teats. Please contact our foster coordinator immediately if you notice any of these signs.

Expecting mothers:

If you are caring for an expecting mother, watch for early signs of labor such as: ● Nesting behavior - mom is searching for a place to have her kittens. Please have a few

options available for her during this time. ● Her teats have grown larger and are more pink. You may even notice a milky discharge. ● Panting, vocalizing, and pacing ● Contractions & dilations ● Discharge from vaginal area

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Generally, you should not need to intervene during labor. However, should you notice a mother is having trouble delivering the babies, please contact the Foster Coordinator immediately. In the early days of life, it is vital kittens nurse and receive colostrum from their mother. Colostrum is rich in antibodies and aids the kittens in building immunity against diseases, while also helping to support their cardiovascular system and overall development. For this reason, kittens must nurse from their mother as soon as possible after birth. If you notice a newborn kitten is having trouble nursing, gently guide them to their mother’s nipple. You may hold them there until they nurse. To ensure kittens are nursing, check them out once a day. A round, plump belly will tell you they are receiving adequate nutrition. A flat, concave belly indicates they are not receiving enough of mother’s milk. Please perform this check once or twice a day, and contact the Foster Coordinator should you notice any troubling signs such as excessive crying, weight loss, or illness.

Adult cats:

Generally, adult cats in foster just need a little time to come out of their shell or overcome a health challenge. If you are fostering an adult cat, please talk with the Foster Coordinator about his or her specific needs and challenges. Daily care will be simple for most adult cats. Clean their litter box once per day, keep dry food out at all times, and ensure their water bowl is full. Offering toys, scratch posts, and other forms of enrichment will keep them psychologically healthy and fulfilled. Should you notice any troubling signs in your adult foster cat, please contact the Foster Coordinator.

Puppies:

Neonatal puppies:

Though rare, there are cases when neonatal puppies may come into the care of SCHS. Like neonatal kittens, these young ones require 24 hour care. Depending on their age, puppies may need to be fed as often as every 2-3 hours. Please use this chart from PetAg to determine the feeding schedule for your neonatal puppies:

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Neonatal puppies should only eat puppy-specific formula. Please do not use home remedies or cow’s milk. Safe feeding for neonatal puppies requires they lay on their belly. Puppies should be fed on their bellies, not on their backs. This decreases the risk of aspiration and more closely resembles how they would have nursed from their mother. Never feed a puppy if it is too cold, or if it is not swallowing. Gently warm the puppy using a heat source. Hold the puppy’s head gently with your fingers, and make sure to keep one finger on the throat to feel for swallowing. If a puppy is not swallowing, stop feeding immediately. Never force milk down a puppy by squeezing the bottle, as this can lead to aspiration. If a puppy refuses to eat, let it rest and try again. If your puppy has not eaten after two consecutive feedings, please contact the foster coordinator immediately. Neonatal puppies cannot thermoregulate, meaning they cannot control their body temperature and need a heat source to stay warm. In the absence of their mother, please ensure to keep neonatal puppies warm using a Snuggle Safe disc or heat pad. Place a blanket in between the heat source and puppy to prevent burns, and please ensure there is ample room for the puppy to move away from the heat source if needed. The number one cause of death in many neonates is hypothermia, so please ensure your puppy is kept warm at all times. Once the puppy has eaten, it will need to be stimulated to go to the bathroom. Gently rub the puppy’s genitals using a tissue, soft paper towel, or baby wipe for about 30 seconds. Puppies should defecate once per day and urinate every time they are stimulated. A healthy puppy will

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have clear to light yellow urine; dark urine is an early sign of dehydration and should be taken seriously.

Weaning:

Weaning can begin at 4-5 weeks of age. Remember, this is a gradual process, as the weaning period is a difficult time for many puppies. If not monitored closely, puppies can quickly lose weight and deteriorate, leading to serious health issues and even death. Begin introducing your puppies to food by mixing a warm paté puppy food with their formula to create a mixture called gruel. Once they begin lapping it up and seem accustomed to it, gradually decrease the amount of formula every few days until they have transitioned completely to wet food. To encourage a finicky puppy to eat gruel, try place a small bit on your finger and rubbing it on the puppy’s gums. Your puppy will likely associate your hand with food due to bottle feedings, and it is much more likely he or she will be receptive to what you’re offering. Once the puppies are comfortably eating wet food, gradually add in their dry kibble. Just as you did with the gruel, gradually decrease the amount of wet food every few days until they have fully transitioned to dry food. During this time, please monitor your puppies’ weights and overall health during this time. Provide supplemental bottle feedings as needed. Patience is key!

Weaned Puppies (4-9 weeks):

Weaned puppies can generally do everything on their own! Once they’re weaned, be sure to keep dry food available at all times to encourage weight gain, and keep their water bowl full. It is also wise to place puppy pads around their room, as they will have accidents as they learn bathroom manners. Be sure to keep plenty of toys available in their space to encourage proper socialization and active play. Soon, your puppies will be ready for their forever homes!

Caring for Mom with Puppies/Expecting Mothers:

Your mom-to-be or new mom will do most of the work in taking care of her puppies. All she’ll need from you is ample food and water supplies, as well as supplemental feedings of wet food to keep her hydrated and full of nutrients for her babies. Please ensure you’re giving her time outside to use the bathroom and keeping her indoor area and nesting box clean. Outside of potty breaks and cleaning, it is best to leave the puppies alone and let mom be mom for the first 3-4 weeks of life. Newborns can nurse up to 45 minutes

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at a time. Be sure to watch puppies nursing at least once a day, if the mother will permit it. Check that everyone is nursing and that there isn't too much jockeying for position. A great deal of activity and crying could indicate a problem with milk flow, quality or availability. When the mother reenters the box, there should be some fussing for only a few minutes before everyone has settled down to serious nursing. Puppies will sleep 90% of the time and eat the other 10%. A nursing mother dog may become aggressive toward other animals and small children while she cares for her young. Please exercise caution with your family, and do not allow other household pets to interact with your foster mom and puppies without proper supervision and preparation. Once the puppies begin eating on their own, they will begin exploring and playing. At this point, their mother will likely welcome help feeding them, cleaning them, and keeping them entertained. She may also enjoy longer periods away from her young. Remember to take cues from the mother. If she seems upset or anxious away from her puppies, leave her be.

Expecting mothers:

If you are caring for an expecting mother, watch for early signs of labor such as: ● Nesting behavior - mom is searching for a place to have her pups. Please have a few

options available for her during this time. ● Her teats have grown larger and are more pink. You may even notice a milky discharge. ● Panting, vocalizing, and pacing ● Contractions & dilations ● Discharge from vaginal area

Generally, you should not need to intervene during labor. However, should you notice a mother is having trouble delivering the babies, please contact the Foster Coordinator immediately. In the early days of life, it is vital puppies nurse and receive colostrum from their mother. Colostrum is rich in antibodies and aids the pups in building immunity against diseases, while also helping to support their cardiovascular system and overall development. For this reason, puppies must nurse from their mother as soon as possible after birth. If you notice a newborn puppy is having trouble nursing, gently guide them to their mother’s nipple. You may hold them there until they nurse. To ensure puppies are nursing, check them out once a day. A round, plump belly will tell you they are receiving adequate nutrition. A flat, concave belly indicates they are not receiving enough of mother’s milk. Please perform this check once or twice a day, and contact the Foster Coordinator should you notice any troubling signs such as excessive crying, weight loss, swollen/tender teats (mom only), or illness.

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Adult dogs:

Generally, adult dogs in foster just need a little time to come out of their shell or overcome a health challenge. If you are fostering an adult dog, please talk with the Foster Coordinator about his or her specific needs and challenges. Daily care will be simple for most adult dogs. Take them out for potty breaks, feed them dry food twice per day, and ensure their water bowl is full. Offering toys, treats, and other forms of enrichment will keep them happy and healthy as they wait for their forever home. Should you notice any troubling signs in your adult foster dog, please contact the Foster Coordinator.

Socialization, Training, and Enrichment Young puppies and kittens are at an important crossroads in their life. As they grow, they are becoming more aware of the world around them - new sights, new smells, new sounds, and new experiences. Because of this, it is crucial their foster families help them learn all these new things are FUN and SAFE!

Timid Cats & Kittens:

Kittens:

Though we do not accept feral cats into our adoption program, from time to time we will have under-socialized kittens or timid cats. Kittens are the easiest felines to socialize with people. Remember to take it slowly. Start by simply sitting near their carrier and speaking softly. Once they seem used to your presence, try sitting in the floor with them and let them come to you. Keep some yummy wet food or cat treats on hand as bribery, as this often does the trick! Once the kittens are approaching you freely, try picking one up. Be gentle and calm. If you notice the kitten seems anxious, try wrapping him or her up in a “purrito” (much like swaddling a baby). Hold the kitten, stroking its fur and talking in a soothing voice. Before you know it, your wild kittens will be social butterflies.

Adult cats:

Adult cats are more difficult to socialize than young kittens. Though they are not feral, a timid cat may exhibit similar behaviors such as hissing, slinking, and general avoidance. Sometimes, all these cats need are a quiet, safe home where they can relax and become their true selves!

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Begin the process by simply being present. After filling up the food bowl, hang out in the general area of the cat, but do not interact with him or her. Perhaps do some reading, coloring, painting, or catch up on your favorite TV show. This lets the cat know you mean no harm. If the cat approaches you, gently reach for it. If it runs away, that’s okay. Try again another time when you feel the cat is comfortable. Some cats may take a couple of days to warm up, while others may take weeks. Be patient!

Timid Dogs:

In the United States, we do not have feral dogs running in the streets, so it is very unlikely we will ever receive feral/under-socialized puppies. Timid and scared dogs, however, are a common occurrence. Just like adult cats, it is important to be patient with our canine friends. Understand there is likely a reason they are shy and timid - whether from abuse, neglect, or a traumatic experience. Keep treats on hand at all times. If the dog chooses to approach you, reward him or her for this behavior. Remember to only use positive reinforcement. If you notice signs of stress such as lip licking, cowering, lowered head, tail tucking, fur standing up, growling, or baring teeth, stop immediately and let the dog calm down.

Training:

As a foster parent for young animals, it is likely you may have the chance to begin training your foster fur-kid. We ask all foster parents use only positive reinforcement, as negative reinforcement such as hitting and yelling can instill fear, which can lead to aggression or withdrawal. When your foster performs an unwanted behavior, redirect it by using a toy or noise. When the behavior stops, reward the dog or cat with a treat and praise. This helps your fosters learn that positive behavior = positive rewards, instilling a drive to please.

Biting & Chewing:

Biting and chewing, otherwise known as mouthing, are perfectly normal behaviors for puppies and kittens. Like human babies, they are navigating the world with their mouth. Normally, puppies and kittens train each other to have proper biting behaviors. When one kitten or puppy bites the other too hard, their sibling will yelp or meow loudly to let them know “Ouch! That hurt.” As the foster parent, you can play this role. If you are bitten too hard by your foster kitten or puppy, yelp out. If the behavior stops, praise your little one. If it continues, walk away from the

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kitten or puppy. After a minute or so, resume play. Never yell at or strike a puppy or kitten for biting. Puppies are also notorious for chewing. This is not a behavior that can be stopped, but it can be redirected to appropriate targets. Make sure your foster pup has access to several different types of chew toys to soothe his mouth as his teeth make an appearance.

Crate Training:

You can help your foster pup begin the potty training process by beginning crate training while they are in your care. A crate can be a great tool to use for your puppy, but it can also be misused. The crate should be big enough for your puppy to stand up, turn around, and stretch out, but not so large that it can potty in one corner and hang out in the other. You want the crate to become a safe, calm, and happy place for your puppy. Never use a crate as a form of punishment for your foster puppy or dog. If you are beginning to crate train, feed your puppy in the crate, provide stuffed chew toys only in the crate, and/or play crate games to build a positive association with the crate. Keep sessions short and fun, and have your puppy in the crate for short periods of time when you are home.

Litter box training:

Around 3-4 weeks of age, your foster kittens may begin to use the bathroom on their own. At this time, it is appropriate to introduce a litter box with non-clumping litter. Most of the time, the kittens’ mother will teach her babies how to use the litter box, but if you are fostering an orphaned litter, you get to be mom! Keep your kittens confined to a smaller area, like a bathroom or spare room. Place 1 or 2 litter boxes in the room, and make sure you are using a small, shallow box rather than a large one. In fact, small cardboard boxes (like what canned cat food is often stored in) are a great option to use at this time. After the kittens eat and drink or play, place them in the litter box. This will help them learn where they should use the potty. Most of the time, kittens will catch on very quickly and not need much more assistance. If your foster kitten continues to potty outside of the litter box, ask yourself a few questions. Is the box accessible? Is it too high off the ground? Is it clean? Could it be a medical issue? If you find feces outside of the litter box, place it in the litter box. The scent will guide the kitten back to the appropriate potty-location. Ensure you clean any accidents thoroughly to eliminate the smell; otherwise, kittens may continue to potty in that area. Never punish the kitten by swatting, hitting, or “rubbing their noses in it.” This is a negative reinforcement that only instills fear.

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Other training:

Foster parents are not expected to formally train their foster fur-kids. However, you are more than welcome to begin training simple commands like sit and stay, or begin working on simple leash manners. Be sure you always use Positive Reinforcement Training and make this experience fun for both you and the foster pet. Treats are a very good training tool, as most pets are food motivated!

Enrichment:

What is enrichment? Put simply, it is making your foster’s space interesting with toys, activities, and games to encourage a healthy, stimulated mind. This also decreases boredom and subsequent destructive behaviors. Enrichment is a mix of toys, human interaction, treats, smells, and textures. Below, we’ll list some common enrichment used in the shelter, as well as DIY ideas you can make at home! KONG Toys: KONG toys are as versatile as they are tough! If you’re fostering a puppy or dog that needs a little extra enrichment, using a KONG toy will be to your advantage. Kibble can be placed inside for a challenging puzzle, as well as peanut butter or cheese. Not only does this occupy the dog’s mind, but it also helps them eat a little slower, solving any problems caused by gulping down food. If you need to crate your foster dog, try freezing the peanut butter inside the KONG. Simply place some peanut butter inside and place the toy in the freezer overnight. When you leave for work, place the toy in the dog’s crate. Because the peanut butter is frozen, it will take the dog longer to lick it all out - keeping their mind active and occupied for several hours!

Toys: When you have foster pets in your home, toys are a necessity! Little minds can get quite bored without something to do, which can lead to unwanted behaviors such as scratching, chewing, or digging. Toys help you keep your fosters happy and busy, which keeps your home intact. There are many different types of toys to choose from, depending on what you are fostering. For puppies and dogs, chew toys, ropes, stuffed animals, squeaky toys, tennis balls, and fetch discs are great options. For cats and kittens, feather wands, bell balls, mouse toys, yarn, crinkle balls,

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scratching posts, and catnip toys are great options. It may take a little trial and error to find which toys your foster animal prefers, so make sure to have different options available.

DIY Enrichment: No toys? No problem! You can make many different types of enrichment tools at home. Be mindful of materials used to ensure they are safe and non-toxic for pets. A few ideas:

● Milk jug toy - clean out an empty milk jug and place treats inside. Leave the lid off. Your foster pup will flip the jug around to get all the treats out.

● Boxes - cats and kittens love playing in boxes. There’s not much you need to do other than placing them in their play space.

● Frozen treats - freeze your foster’s favorite treats inside a water bowl. This is a challenging puzzle game to keep them busy and stimulated while you’re away.

● DIY wand toy - cats love to play with wand toys! Grab a stick or craft skewer and tie some ribbon around the end. Hot glue the knot to keep it in place. Get creative and add bells for added fun!

Cleaning & Sanitation Keeping your foster animals clean, as well as their space sanitized is extremely important. Your foster space must be cleaned often, as well as between new litters of animals - even if there were no noticeable health issues with your previous fosters. Furniture, toys, blankets, floors, crates, and bowls will all need to be sanitized before a new foster enters your home. It is recommended to keep your foster animal in a space without carpet, as it is much harder to sanitize between groups. Any space your fosters come into contact with should be sanitized using a disinfectant. Vacuum carpets and spray with a disinfectant. Mop non-carpeted floors with a bleach solution or other disinfectant that is safe to use on your particular style of flooring. Any furniture in the room should be vacuumed and sprayed with disinfectant. Their blankets, towels, toys, bowls, etc. should be washed with added bleach. Remember, heavily soiled items should be thrown away.

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SCHS does not provide cleaning supplies. However, we recommend the use of bleach, disinfectant wipes, Rescue (ACCEL) disinfectant, and good, common sense hygiene. Remember to keep cleaning supplies away from your fosters, and wait for the disinfectants to dry before placing them back in their space. Remember, a foster animal with a clean space and clean coat will be happier - and healthier!

Medical Information & Procedures

If a foster animal requires veterinary care, please contact the Foster Coordinator or Shelter Manager FIRST. In the case of life-threatening emergencies, and you are unable to reach SCHS (see page 2 for contact numbers), please contact Duncan Veterinary Hospital at 580-255-0830 or Minson's Veterinary Hospital at 580-252-3250 and

identify the animal as a foster of SCHS. SCHS will cover veterinary expenses for the animal based on previous agreements with our veterinary partners.

Puppy Quarantine:

Puppies and young dogs (ages 2 years and under) are at a higher risk of contracting the deadly canine parvovirus. Because of this, SCHS asks all puppy fosters to observe the following procedures to keep your fosters safe:

● Puppies should not play outside until they’ve had at least two vaccinations. Puppies are only permitted to play in fully fenced yards at YOUR home. Puppies are not permitted to visit public parks or other unfamiliar outdoor areas until they have had all three vaccinations sets, plus one week for the final set to take effect.

● Foster puppies are allowed to interact with your pets as long as your pets are over 6 months of age, up-to-date on all vaccines, and non-aggressive.

● For the first 7 days, limit visitors to ensure no new illness is brought in and that no illness is transferred out. If visitors do come and interact with the puppies, please ensure that they know and understand the quarantine protocol.

Naturally, these guidelines are case-by-case. Some puppies will require more isolation, some may not require as much. Younger puppies may need to be separated from in-house animals. If any animal has a noticeable injury or suspected illness, they should be isolated from other pets. SCHS will inform you of any specific preventative measures that should be taken with your foster.

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Common Medical Issues:

Upper respiratory infection (URI):

Upper respiratory infections, referred to as URIs, are one of the most common illnesses in foster animals, especially kittens. URIs are similar to the common cold in humans, but can quickly develop into more serious issues if not addressed immediately. Signs and symptoms to watch for are:

● Yellow/green discharge from eyes and nose (most common symptom)

● Matted eyes ● Sneezing ● Coughing ● Loss of appetite ● Lethargy ● Dehydration

If you notice any of the above signs or symptoms, please contact the Foster Coordinator or shelter staff immediately to begin appropriate treatment, such as topical antibiotics for the eyes and oral antibiotics to prevent pneumonia. At home, you can support your foster animal through their URI by doing the following:

● Give prescribed medicine on time, and according to veterinary instructions ● Keep eyes and nose clear of discharge. Use a warm wash cloth or paper towel and

gently clean away any matted discharge from these areas. ● Keep a humidifier in their space to ease congestion

Make sure to observe strict sanitation if you suspect your foster animal may have a URI. Wash your hands with an antibiotic soap before and after handling the animal. Keep your foster isolated from other household pets, as URIs are contagious.

Conjunctivitis:

This illness is most often seen in young kittens. Symptoms include clear or colored eye discharge, scratching or pawing at the eyes (due to pain), eyes that are crusted shut or swollen. Ocular antibiotics and ointments are required. Some viral upper respiratory infections can cause corneal ulcers, which is a medical emergency. A painful, swollen eye should always be examined by a veterinarian. Conjunctivitis can be contagious to other animals, so please isolate animals exhibiting symptoms. If any foster begins developing eye discharge, contact the Foster Coordinator immediately to begin appropriate treatment. Be sure to keep the animal’s eyes as clean as possible by using a warm cloth or paper towel to clean the affected area.

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Neonatal kittens, despite the fact that their eyes are not yet open, can be subject to a similar infection known as Neonate Ophthalmia, which should be treated immediately by a veterinarian.

Vomiting:

Just like in humans, vomiting in your foster animals can have many potential causes. Environmental factors like stress or a change in diet can induce vomiting. Other causes could be overeating, parasites, bacterial infections, or viruses. Vomiting is generally not serious unless it happens continuously or is accompanied with diarrhea which can lead to dehydration. In younger animals, it can quickly become serious. If vomiting occurs 2-3 times in a row, please contact the Foster Coordinator immediately.

Diarrhea:

Diarrhea is probably the most common ailment we see in our foster animals, especially kittens. Diarrhea is a liquid stool and can come in a variety of colors. It can be caused by a variety of factors, such as: stress, overfeeding, parasites, viruses, bacterial infections, or food changes. Diarrhea should be monitored closely, as it can quickly lead to dehydration and death, especially in young kittens and puppies. If the diarrhea lasts for more than 3-4 bowel movements, please act immediately. Contact the Foster Coordinator to begin appropriate treatment or schedule a vet appointment. *

Neonatal kittens and puppies should be treated at the FIRST sign of diarrhea, as it can

quickly lead to a decline in their health.

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To help support your foster animal while he or she recovers from diarrhea, the following supportive therapies can be administered. These are NOT a substitution for medication.

● Plain Greek yogurt is a great source of probiotics for puppies and kittens ● Bene-bac is probiotic designed specifically for puppies and kittens. Sprinkling a bit in

their food or formula can help aid their digestive system. The shelter has donated supplies of this product from time to time.

● Dab vaseline (sparingly) on raw areas. Keep their genitals and anal area clean and dry. ● Syringe feeding Pedialyte (plain, flavorless) or adding it to water/food ● Subcutaneous fluids (if trained in critical care)

Parasites:

Fosters are dewormed upon intake (if age appropriate) and at follow-up appointments. SCHS generally uses Pyrantel for the prevention and treatment of roundworms and hookworms. However, other commonly used treatments for parasites include:

● Ponazuril - used to treat coccidia. ● Heartworm preventatives such as Interceptor+, Heartgard, etc. ● Praziquantel - used to treat tapeworms ● Albon - used to treat bacterial infections/coccidia

Parasites are commonly found in the stool of puppies and kittens. Tapeworms may look like grains of rice. Roundworms look like spaghetti and can be seen easily in stool or vomit. If you notice worms, call the Foster Coordinator to schedule appropriate treatment.

Dehydration:

Dehydration is almost always a side effect of another medical issue. If your foster is dehydrated, their health can decline rapidly - especially in young puppies and kittens. You can check their hydration level easily at home by pinching their scruff (skin on the back of the neck). Observe how quickly or slowly it returns to its normal position. A healthy, hydrated animal’s scruff will snap back into place almost instantly. A dehydrated animal’s scruff will go back down slowly or, in severe cases, will stay up in what is referred to as “tenting.”

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If your foster animal will not drink on its own, please contact the Foster Coordinator or shelter immediately. You can syringe some sugar water solution into their mouth, or use plain Pedialyte to restore electrolytes while you work to contact the coordinator. Please note: dehydration is often fatal in neonatal kittens or puppies. If you notice symptoms of dehydration in your foster kitten or puppy, please act swiftly. Supportive therapies for dehydration are as follows:

● Syringe feeding Pedialyte (plain, flavorless) every 2-3 hours ● Adding Pedialyte to food/formula ● Syringe feeding dextrose solution (sugar water with REAL sugar) or adding to food/water ● Subcutaneous fluids (if trained in critical care)

Lethargy (lack of energy):

If your foster animal isn’t acting like his or herself, it is likely due to another issue. Lethargy is often an indicator of illness. If your foster is not eating, playing, drinking, and acting like their normal self, it’s important to investigate further. If your foster is acting lethargic, first check his/her hydration level (see Dehydration above and follow suggestions). Read through all other common medical issues to see if any match their symptoms. If lethargy continues, please contact the Foster Coordinator immediately.

Hypoglycemia:

Hypoglycemia is seen quite often in puppies and kittens. This occurs when their blood sugar levels are too low. Regular feeding or bottle feeding (if mom is not present) is vital to preventing hypoglycemia. Most instances of hypoglycemia are due to poor nutrition - either not eating enough or poor quality of food/poor digestion of food. Excessive exercise and certain types of illness can also lead to hypoglycemia. Symptoms to watch for are:

● Lack of energy (lethargy) ● Listlessness ● Weakness ● Wobbles/shakes/shivers ● Seizures

If left untreated, animals suffering from hypoglycemia can fall into a coma, suffer severe neurological damage, and face death. If you suspect your kitten or puppy may be hypoglycemic, rub a small amount of wet food on the gums and syringe feed sugar water or Karo syrup. Please contact the Foster Coordinator immediately if your foster’s condition does not improve.

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Supportive therapies for hypoglycemia are as follows:

● Syringe feeding Pedialyte (plain, flavorless) every 2-3 hours ● Adding Pedialyte to food/formula ● Syringe feeding dextrose solution (sugar water with REAL sugar)/Karo Syrup or adding

to food/water ● Subcutaneous fluids using 5% dextrose lactated ringers (if trained in critical care)

Ear mites:

Ear mites are small parasites that reside the ear canal. Animals who are suffering from ear mites may exhibit the following symptoms:

● Bald spots around ears due to scratching ● Violent shaking of the head ● Brown discharge (like coffee grounds) from ears ● Foul odor from ears

Ear mites are contagious to other animals and should be treated with appropriate medication. If you suspect your foster has ear mites, please contact the Foster Coordinator.

Fleas & ticks:

Animals that have fleas and ticks will scratch themselves often. Topical preventatives are given to any foster over 4 weeks of age. In younger animals, you may bathe them in a small amount of Dawn dish soap. Follow up their bath with a flea comb to remove remaining fleas, and use tweezers to remove ticks. Be sure to thoroughly dry him/her following a bath, and immediately place your foster on a warming pad with plenty of blankets. Baths should not be given more than once every few days. Please contact the Foster Coordinator with questions.

Ringworm:

Contrary to popular belief, Ringworm is a fungus (not a worm) that can spread to other animals and humans. The early warning signs of ringworm are loss of hair or thinning of hair in these areas (though ringworm can develop anywhere, these areas are most common):

● Face, around the eyes ● Ears ● Paws ● Tail

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Call the Foster Coordinator if you notice these symptoms to schedule a check for ringworm and appropriate medication. Please isolate the infected animal from other fosters and household pets. To help with prevention and spreading, main-tain cleaning protocols and a good hand washing routine.

Mange:

Though we typically do not see mange in any of our foster animals, it is possible that it may develop while in care. Mange is caused by parasites that invade and infect the skin. Symptoms of mange include:

● Itching ● Hair loss ● Sore-like lesions on the skin

If you notice any of these symptoms, please contact the Foster Coordinator for assistance.

Parvovirus:

Parvo is a deadly and extremely contagious virus most often seen in young puppies. It invades and attacks the gastrointestinal tract. Once parvo has infected a space, it can live in the ground for 7-8 years. Watch out for the following symptoms in your foster puppy:

● Lethargy ● Dehydration ● Vomiting ● Loss of appetite (early indicator) ● Abdominal pain and bloating

● Fever ● Low body temperature ● Severe diarrhea, with or without

blood

If you notice any of these signs in your foster pup (especially young puppies), please contact the foster coordinator immediately. If left untreated, the canine parvo virus can be fatal within a matter of hours or days depending on the age of the puppy. Supportive therapies you can offer to foster puppies or dogs being treated for parvo are:

● Syringe feed Pedialyte every 2 hours ● Administration of subcutaneous fluids (if you are trained in critical care)

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● Small, bland meals that are easily digestible (once the pup ceases vomiting) ● Timely administration of medication

Though parvo is a deadly virus, it is possible for puppies to survive. Overcoming the complications of the canine parvovirus, particularly dehydration due to vomiting and diarrhea, is key to beating the virus. Be sure to use bleach to clean any and all areas the infected puppy has come into contact with, including floors, food bowls, toys, blankets, etc.

Panleukopenia:

Panleukopenia is a viral infection that affects cats and kittens. It is caused by the feline parvovirus, and may also be called feline distemper or feline parvo. Panleuk is a highly contagious and deadly disease that requires immediate medical attention. The feline parvovirus infects and kills cells that are rapidly growing and dividing, such as those in the bone marrow, intestines, and the developing fetus. Though Panleukopenia is most common in kittens 3-5 months of age, it can occur at any time. Please watch for the following symptoms in your foster felines:

● Vomiting ● Diarrhea, with or without blood ● Dehydration ● Lethargy ● Loss of appetite ● High fever ● Anemia (loss of red blood cells)

● Sudden anorexia/weight loss ● Rough fur/coat ● Depression ● Hiding ● Neurological complications (e.g. loss

of coordination)

If you notice any of the above symptoms, please contact the Foster Coordinator immediately. The virus is typically hard to diagnose, however, panleukopenia attacks and kills the cells that rapidly divide, such as those produced in the bone marrow and intestines, so the blood count typically will show a decrease in white and red blood cells. While there is no cure for the virus, caregivers can help kittens overcome Panleukopenia by offering supportive therapies (in conjunction with prescribed veterinary treatment and medications) such as:

● Syringe feeding Pedialyte every 2 hours ● Subcutaneous fluids (if trained in critical care) ● Timely administration of prescribed medication, especially antibiotics to combat potential

sepsis ● Syringe feeding dextrose supplement or high fat wet food mixed with kitten formula

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Be sure to clean any and all areas that come into contact with the infected kitten or cat using bleach, including floors, kennels, toys, bowls, bottles, blankets, etc.

Distemper:

Distemper, which is a virus affecting dogs and puppies, is a highly contagious and infectious disease that attacks the respiratory, gastrointestinal, and neurological systems of its host. It is transmitted through direct contact with contaminated saliva, blood or urine. Distemper is not normally seen in our foster animals; however, signs and symptoms to look out for are:

● Severe upper respiratory infection or pnemonia ● Watery, pus-like discharge from eyes and nose ● Lethargy ● Hardening or thickening paw pads ● Jaw chewing fits with salivation ● Neurological complications (e.g. seizures/convulsions, loss of coordinator, paralysis).

Typically, dogs infected with distemper will not survive. If they do, they are often left with irreparable and irreversible neurological damage.

Mastitis:

Mastitis is a bacterial infection that occurs in the milk ducts of nursing cats and dogs. Nursing mothers are at risk for mastitis most often near weaning periods, but it can occur during early stages of nursing. Risk factors that increase the likelihood of the development of mastitis are:

● Improper nutrition ● Poor sanitary conditions ● Emaciation

● Immunocompromisation ● Stress ● Biting around teats

Mastitis may only occur in one or two teats, or can affect the entire area. The most common symptoms of mastitis in dogs and cats are:

● Hot, swollen teats ● Abnormal color/consistency of milk ● Lack of interest in nursing young ● Fever ● Depression

● Lethargy ● Dehydration ● Vomiting ● Diarrhea ● Tender teats/pain

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If you notice the above symptoms in your nursing cat or dog, please contact our Foster Coordinator immediately to begin appropriate treatment. If uncared for, mastitis can lead to ruptures of the affected mammary glands and death of offspring (due to lack of motivation to nurse).

Fading Kitten/Puppy Syndrome:

Fading Kitten/Puppy Syndrome is not a disease in itself, but rather a set of symptoms to describe a young animal experiencing declining health. These symptoms can lead to a swift decline in a puppy or kitten’s health and even death. In order to support a foster kitten or puppy during this emergency situation, it’s important to learn signs and symptoms that point to declining health.

● Pale/white gums ● Agonal breathing/breathing with

mouth open ● Extreme lethargy ● Odd vocalizations (cries of pain) ● Muscle wasting

● Loss of weight ● Disinterest in food ● Dehydration ● Low body temperature (cold to

touch) ● High body temperature (fever)

If confronted with any of the above symptoms, it is important to act quickly. Do not wait until a puppy or kitten is in crisis to take action, but rather use these early signs as a cue to intervene immediately. Until a primary cause of fading health can be identified (e.g. an undetected infection, diarrhea that has led to anemia, etc.), caregivers should work to combat the secondary symptoms listed above. Supportive therapies you can offer to a kitten or puppy experiencing fading health are:

● Keep the kitten or puppy warm; wrap them in a blanket and place them on a heating pad ● Offer Pedialyte to combat dehydration. Syringe feed a small amount every few minutes ● Offer sugar water or Karo syrup to combat hypoglycemia. Syringe feed a small amount

every few minutes until symptoms improve ● Subcutaneous fluids can combat dehydration (if trained in critical care)

Kittens and puppies can fade quickly. Sometimes, no matter how hard you have tried, the puppy or kitten in your care may pass away. Please reach out to the Facebook Foster group for support and the Foster Coordinator if your kitten or puppy begins to fade.

Emergency versus Non-emergency:

The Stephens County Humane Society strives to support our foster families in any way possible, especially in the case of medical issues with their foster animals. From time to time, emergency situations do occur with foster animals. Please use the following chart if you suspect your foster animal may be experiencing a medical emergency.

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Emergency Non-Emergency

Call SCHS and come immediately. If unable to reach SCHS, contact Veterinary partners and seek emergency medical care

Monitor condition first; read handbook for any tips; notify foster coordinator and await response

● Diarrhea continuing more than 3 days (for neonatal/young animals, more than 1 day)

● Vomiting continuing for more than 12 hours (for neonatal/young animals, more than 2-4 hours)

● Loss of appetite continuing more than 2 days (for neonatal/young animals, more than 4 hours)

● Bleeding of any kind (from body or in urine/stool)

● Trauma (hit by car, dropped, unconscious, etc)

● Difficult or labored breathing ● Animal that is non-responsive ● Severe behavior issues ● Neurological issues

● Runny nose ● Mild discharge from eyes ● Lack of appetite during transition to

home ● Mild lethargy ● Diarrhea while transitioning into home ● Vomiting once or twice ● Coughing/sneezing ● Itching ● Mild behavioral issues ● Trouble settling in/resting ● Loss of interest in favorite activities

during transition into home

*Please note: depending on the age/health of your specific foster animal, different timelines may apply. For example, vomiting in a newborn, neonatal puppy or kitten is considered a medical emergency due to the lack of tolerance their body has for such issues. However, vomiting once or twice in a full grown dog or cat is typically not a medical emergency. In the case of emergencies, or if you are unable to reach SCHS, please contact Duncan Veterinary Hospital at 580-255-0830 or Minson's Veterinary Hospital at 580-252-3250 and identify the animal as a foster of SCHS. SCHS will cover veterinary expenses for the animal based on previous agreements with our veterinary partners. If you are unsure if an issue your foster animal is experiencing warrants an emergency vet visit, please contact the Foster Coordinator or Shelter Manager. We would much rather our fosters feel comfortable and confident by asking, than not ask when their animal needs care. It is ALWAYS better to lean on the side of safe; we will never be frustrated by you caring for your foster.

Foster Failing The final step in any foster’s journey is adoption! Once your foster has grown up, become socialized, or overcome its medical issues - it’s time for them to find their forever home.

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Of course, it would be impossible for you to NOT love your fosters! Loving them is what ensures they receive the care they need to grow up big and strong or overcome difficult issues. However, please keep in mind that good-bye is the goal of fostering. When we foster fail (meaning we adopt our fosters) we take up valuable room for future fosters in our home. In fact, did you know the majority of people who stop fostering have stopped because they no longer have room? When you allow your fosters to move on to their new life, you’re ensuring you’ll be able to save more lives later! If you’re feeling uncertain about saying good-bye to your foster, please reach out to our Foster Coordinator or to the Foster Facebook Group. We know it’s hard, but we will be there to support you every step of the way with tissues, lots of encouragement, and big hugs when you need them. Our fosters are also encouraged to send notes with their foster kids when it’s time to say good-bye. We will make sure their new owners receive your notes, and you will be providing valuable information to your foster kids’ new parents. Putting your thoughts in writing may also help you gain some closure about saying good-bye to your fosters, even as we plan to give you more!

Advertising your Fosters We’re asked all the time if it is okay for foster parents to advertise their foster babies on social media or to their friends and family. The answer is OF COURSE! All foster parents are encouraged to take pictures and videos of their foster animals. Share them with your friends and family, on social media, and with us. We love to see your updates! Keep in mind the limitations your animal might have (e.g. kittens and puppies should not leave your home and travel to other homes to meet potential adopters due to risk of disease). Adopting animals through fosters (thanks to your advertising) means your foster won’t need to return to the shelter and take up a kennel that could be used by another animal in need. When posting on social media, be creative! You can use hashtags like #foster, #fosteringsaveslives, #adoptSCHS, #SCHSfosters, or #adoptdontshop to help interested people find your photos. Take cute, clear pictures, write down your foster’s best characteristics, and help potential adopters get an idea of their personality. Make sure to include your foster will be available for adoption through the Stephens County Humane Society.

If you have an interested potential adopter, please instruct them to contact SCHS to begin the adoption process. They will need to fill out an application and chat with our staff about the cat, dog, puppy, or kitten. The foster animal must stay in its foster home

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until it is spayed/neutered and ready for adoption - and, of course, until the adopter has finalized the adoption process. If you have any questions about this process, please feel free to reach out to the Foster Coordinator.

Coming back to SCHS for Adoption When your foster is ready for adoption, they will need to return to SCHS to be available on our adoption floor. As mentioned above, we encourage our foster parents to share any information they’d like us to know about their foster pet. You can make a flyer of their information, notes to go home with the adopters, small goody bags with a few of their favorite things, etc. If you would like updates once they’re adopted, you can make a card to go home with the new family with your email on it, but please be understanding if their new family does not reach out. All of these things make their adoption process much better for the animal and the adopters.

Helpful Outside Resources Animal welfare is all about networking, and we’re big fans of the following organizations and the work they do! Please feel free to visit their websites to learn more and educate yourself about your specific foster specialization.

● Maddie’s Fund: www.maddiesfund.org*ASPCAPro:www.aspcapro.org ● Kitten Lady: www.kittenlady.org ● Best Friends Animal Society: www.bestfriends.org ● Bottle Feeding: http://www.maddiesfund.org/how-to-bottle-feed-kittens-and-puppies.htm ● Parker Protocol:

https://drive.google.com/file/d/1ulrCwY1ag8wDEyucdXzpfvXD3UaCRHHL/view ● Introducing Cats: https://www.jacksongalaxy.com/blog/the-dos-and-donts-of-introducing-

cats/ ● Introducing Cats and Dogs: https://bestfriends.org/resources/how-introduce-dog-cat ● Fear Free Pets: https://fearfreepets.com/ ● Decompression Tips for New Foster Dogs: https://www.huffingtonpost.com/steffen-

baldwin/chill-out-decompression-t_b_8331986.html?ec_carp=8223190377173758120 ● Separation Anxiety: https://www.whole-dog-journal.com/issues/11_7/features/Canine-

Separation-Anxiety_16044-1.html ● House Training: https://www.humanesociety.org/resources/how-housetrain-your-dog-or-

puppy ● Dog Enrichment: https://positively.com/dog-wellness/dog-enrichment/

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● DIY Cat Toys: https://chewonthis.maddiesfund.org/2018/12/feelgoodfriday-5-cheap-and-easy-cat-toys-anyone-can-make/

● Marketing your foster pet: https://chewonthis.maddiesfund.org/2018/12/six-guidelines-for-marketing-your-foster-pet/

Thank you! Without our fosters, we would not be able to save the hundreds of animals that come into our care every year. From the bottom of our hearts to the tips of our whiskers, thank you for what you’re doing. Even if you just foster one animal - you’re saving two lives! By fostering, you free up space for another animal that needs it, allowing us to save a second life. When you foster, you’re giving an animal in need the chance to learn and grow in a safe, home environment. While they’re with you, we get the chance to learn valuable and important information about them that will help the adoption process. Fostering saves lives, and we don’t take that saying lightly. THANK YOU for having a warm heart for a cold nose! We’re so excited you’ve chosen to foster; welcome to the family.