four-shot muzzle loading pistol instructions
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Project 4 - Four-shot muzzleloading pistol
egal
ease read the disclaimer on the main page and note that I am not a lawyer. According to US Federa
w, a muzzleloading gun is not considered to be a Title I (with certain exceptions) or Title II firearm
hey are legal for most private individuals to build and own in most US states. There could be an age
striction but I don't know for sure. Note that since muzzleloaders are not subject to certain provisio
the Gun Control Act of 1968, a private citizen does not need a Federal Firearms License (FFL) to
em by mail. There are lots of mail-order companies where individuals can legally buy muzzleloadi
stol kits, rifle kits and complete muzzleloading firearms via mail-order. Note that muzzleloadingstols are almost always smoothbore (i.e. no rifling in the barrel).
troduction
ne day, I had an idea to build a muzzleloading pistol. This is the result. It is a 4-shot derringer-type
stol. Muzzle energy is rather low so I don't think of it as a self defense device at all unless the desig
as scaled up a bit. It is electrically fired so there is no need to replace primers after each shot. It fire
tched round balls 0.25" diameter using 4-5 grains of Pyrodex. A single CR123 lithium photo batter
pplies energy to ignite the power. The ignition system is basically an electrically heated wire. Each
amber/barrel is threaded at the breech end to accept the ignitor. The battery can theoretically firemething like 20-30 shots. Its quite inconvenient to clean after shooting it. There is a 5 position rota
witch to select which chamber/barrel to fire. The first switch position is the "safe" position. After ea
ot, the user must manually turn the rotary switch to the next position. I have also built some test
rsions which are just a single barrel.
used 1018 cold drawn steel for the receiver/barrel. The rest of the pistol is made of black Acetal/De
astic and some aluminum. The pistol is about 5 inches long. I did a quick calculation of the burstin
rength and peak pressure of the burning propellant so I am not worried about any blowups. In addit
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emotely test fired the pistol a few times and made some measurements to ensure is was safe. One o
e nice things of an electrically primed pistol is that it is easy to connect some long cables and test fi
from behind cover!
I built another pistol, I'd design it with a larger grip so it could use 2 rechargeable Ni-Cd batteries.
so beef up the caliber but make it a 2 shot pistol.
nce posting this, there have been several questions from readers. Here are the answers:
q What is the bore size?
The bore size is 0.261" (size G drill or reamer). The pistol is designed to fire 0.25" diameter
patched balls. A "patch" is a piece of lubed (usually with wax/grease) cotton that is pushed do
the bore by the projectile to provide a tight fit.
q How does the electrical priming work?
I used model airplane glowplugs (the type without the heat retaining bar), pulled out the filam
a bit and reinforced them with high temperature ceramic cement. One reader recommended Fo
brand glowplugs for their ruggedness. The easiest way to clean the glowplug is to run a voltagthrough them to burn off residual materials.
q What is the ignition time?
A bit slow - about 0.25-0.3 seconds. The CR123 lithium battery cannot supply a lot of current
quickly. A typical glowplug is rated for 1.5V. It takes about 3A of current to start it glowing,
the current drops to about 2A. If I had to redesign it, I'd use one or two high rate discharge Ni
batteries instead.
q How long does the glowplug last?
'Don't know for sure, but I have one that has lasted 15 shots (with careful cleaning).
q Is there a safety?
The only mechanical safety is the rotary switch set to the "off" position - so a casual brush can
flip the switch to the "fire" position. As always, the user has to keep his finger off the trigger u
ready to fire. It would be pretty easy to add a "grip safety" switch if desired.
ore pictures:
q Pic1 (59 kbytes)
q Pic2 (65 kbytes)
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