free knitting patterns...big-eye beading needle 1 tube of 2/0 czech glass beads gauge- 6 sts & 8...

Series 700

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W I T H Y O U I N M I N D : C U S T O M - F I T T I N G T E C H N I Q U E S

Actual Body Measurement ChartFor: ________________________________ Date: _________________________________

1A

2

3 Hip3 Bottom

4A

4B

5

6A6B

6C

6D

6E

7

8

9

1B

10

11A

11B

12A12B12C

1A. Bust/Chest: ______________________________

1B. Back: ___________________________________

2. Waist: __________________________________

3. Hip/Bottom: _____________________________

4. Sleeve Length

A. Short sleeve: ___________________________

B. Long sleeve: ___________________________

5. Back Neck Width: ________________________

6. Finished Length

A. Cropped: ______________________________

B. High Hip: _____________________________

C. Low Hip: _____________________________

D. Fingertip: _____________________________

E. Coat: _________________________________

7. Upper Arm: ______________________________

8. Wrist: __________________________________

9. Shoulders: _______________________________

10. Armhole: _______________________________

11. V Depth

A. Pullover: ______________________________

B. Cardigan: _____________________________

12. Rounded Neck Depth

A. Crew: ________________________________

B. Jewel: ________________________________

C. Scoop: ________________________________

Horizontal Cable Scarf pattern written and designed by Kt Baldassaro

Size- Approx. 50” L x 6“ W (without fringe) 66” L x 6” W (with fringe)

Materials- 1 skein Alp Oriental by Feza Yarns (165 yds; 325g) US #15 needles, OR SIZE NEEDED TO OBTAIN GAUGE Cable needle Tapestry needle US K crochet hook.

Gauge- 2 sts & 3 row = 1” Using US # 15 needles, OR SIZE NEEDED TO OBTAIN GAUGE, CO 152 sts. Row #1 & 3 (WS)- K1, *K2, P4, repeat from * to the last st, K1. Row #2 (RS)- K1, *sl the next 2 sts onto cable needle and bring to the front of the work, K2, K2 from the cable needle, P2, repeat from * to the last st, K1. Row #4-K1, P2, *K2, sl the next 2 sts onto cable needle and hold to the back of the work, K2, P2 from the cable needle, repeat from * to the last 5 sts, K5. Row #5 & 7- K1, *P4, K2, repeat from * to the last st, K1. Row #6- K1, *P2, Sl next 2 sts to the cable needle and hold to the back of the work, K2, K2 from the cable needle, repeat from * to the last st, K1. Row #8- K5, *sl the next 2 sts to the cable needle and bring to the front of the work, P2, K2 from the cable needle, K2, repeat from * to the last three sts, P2, K1.

Repeat Rows 1 - 8 until twice; Repeat Rows 1-5 binding off all sts on Row #5.

FINISHING- Weave in all loose ends. Divide the number of fringe pieces attached to the top of the skein in half. Using US K crochet hook, attach half the number of fringe pieces to both short (6”) ends of the scarf.

Feza Yarns © 2010

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NIRVANA BEADED TANK TOP

SIZE: 32/34 (36/38, 40/42, 44/46, 48/50)MATERIALS4 (4, 5, 5, 6) balls of Nirvana by Feza Yarns (147yds; 100g/ea)US #7 24” circular needles, OR SIZE NEEDED TO OBTAIN GAUGEtapestry needlestitch markersstitch holdersbig-eye beading needle1 tube of 2/0 Czech Glass BeadsGAUGE- 6 sts & 8 rows = 1” in K1, P1 ribbing 4.5 sts = 1” in Stockinette st, on US #7 needlesMsI- moss increase (Knit through front of loop, purl through the back)M1L- make one leftM1R- make one rightBODY Using US #7 24” circular needles, OR SIZE NEEDED TO OBTAIN GAUGE, CO 212(228, 252, 276,312) sts. PM, and join to work in the round.Rnd 1- *K1, P1, repeat from * to the 106(114, 126, 138, st, 156)th stitch, PM, continue in established pattern to the end of the row.

© Feza Yarns 2011

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Rnd 2- *K1, P1, repeat from * to the end of the row.Rnd 3- **K1, P1, SSK, *K1, P1, repeat from * to four stitches before the second stitch marker, K2tog, K1, P1, repeat from ** once. 208(224, 248, 272, 308) stsRnd 4- **K1, P1, K2, *P1, K1, repeat from * to four stitches before the second marker, P1, K2, P1,repeat from ** once.Rnd 5- **K1, P1, SSK, *P1, K1, repeat from the * to four stitches before the second marker, P1, K2tog, P1, repeat from ** once. 204(220, 244, 268, 304) stsRnd 6- *K1, P1, repeat from * to the end of the row.Repeat Rnds 3 – 6 five additional times. 172(188, 212, 236, 272) stsWork in K1 P1 Ribbing for 6 rows.Rnd 1- **K1, P1, M1L, *K1, P1, repeat from * to two sts before the second stitch marker, M1R, K1, P1, repeat from ** once. 176(192, 216, 240, 276) stsRnd 2- **K1, P1, K2, *P1, K1, repeat from * to four sts before the second stitch marker, P1, K2, P1, repeat from ** once.Rnd 3-**K1, P1, MsI, *K1, P1, repeat from * to three sts before the second stitch marker, MsI, K1, P1, repeat from ** once. 180(196, 220, 244, 280) stsRnd 4-*K1, P1, repeat from * to end of row. Work in K1, P1 Ribbing for 6 rows.Repeat Rnds 1-4 once more. 188(204, 228, 252, 288) sts Continue to work in K1, P1 Ribbing for an additional 6 rows.Divide for Button holes

Note from the Designer: Until this point the first and second markers have simply been the first marker on the round, and the second marker on the round. Think of them now as marker #1 and marker #2, respectively.

Work in K1, P1 ribbing over the first 47 (51, 57, 63, 72) sts, provisionally cast on 4 sts, TURN. 192 (208, 232, 256, 292) stsRow 1 & 5(WS)- *P1, K1, repeat from * to end of row.Row 2 (RS)-*P1, K1, repeat from * to four sts before marker#2, P1, M1R, (K1, P1) twice, K1, M1L,repeat from * once {this time working to four sts before marker #1}, **P1,K1 repeat from ** to last four sts, BO 2 sts, P1, K1.© Feza Yarns 2011

Row 3- P1, K1, CO2 sts, *P1, K1, repeat from * to four sts before marker#2, P2, (K1, P1) twice, repeat from * once {this time working to four sts before marker #1}, **P1, K1, repeat from ** to end of row.Row 4- *P1, K1, repeat from * to five sts before marker #2, P1, MsI, (K1, P1) twice, MsI, K1, repeatfrom * once, **P1, K1, repeat from ** to end of row.Row 6- *K1, P1, repeat from * to end of row.Repeat Rows 1-6 one additional time.Row 7 & 11- *P1, K1, repeat from to end of row.Row 8 & 12- *K1, P1, repeat from * to last four sts, BO 2 sts, P1, K1.Row 9- P1, K1, CO2 sts, *P1, K1, repeat from * to end of row.Row 10- *K1, P1, repeat from * to end of row.Repeat Rows 7-11 one additional time.Divide for Front and BackRow 1(RS)- Work in established ribbing until marker #2, place stitches just worked onto a stitchholder, continue in established ribbing until end of row. Row 2 (WS)- Work in established ribbing until marker #1, place stitches just worked onto a stich holder, continue in established ribbing until end of row.

Stitches remaining on the needle make up stitches for Back. Stitches left on the two stitch holders make up the Front Left & Right pieces.

BACKRow 1 (RS)- K1, P1, SSK, P2tog, *K1, P1, repeat from * to last six sts, K2tog, SSP, K1, P1.90(102, 114, 126, 144) stsRow 2 (WS)- *K1, P1, repeat from * to end of row.Repeat Rows 1 & 2 eleven additional times. 46(58, 70, 82, 100)Row 3(RS)- P9, slip the next four sts onto a stitch holder, purl the first stitch from the stitchholder together with the first stitch from the left hand needle, repeat for each stitch on the stich holder, P12, slip the next four sts onto a stitch holder, purl the first stitch from the stitch holder together with the first stitch from the left hand needle, repeat for each stitch on the stich holder, P9. 38(50, 62, 74, 92) stsRow 4- *K1, P1, repeat from * to end of row.Row 5- K1, P1, SSK, P2tog, *K1, P1, repeat from * to last six sts, K2tog, SSP, K1, P1. © Feza Yarns 2011

Repeat Rows 4 & 5 two additional times. Continue to work straight in established ribbing for four rows, ending on a RS row. 26( 38, 50, 62, 80) stsRow 6- *K1, P1, repeat from * to end of row.Row 7- K1, P1, MsI, *K1, P1, repeat from * to last two stitches, MsI, K1, P1. Repeat Rows 6 & 7 5(4,4, 3, 3) additional times. 38(48, 60, 70, 88) stsDivide for Shoulder StrapsRow 1(WS)- (K1, P1) 7(8,9,10,11) times, place the stitches just worked onto a stitch holder, BO the next 10 (16, 24, 30, 44) sts, (K1, P1) to the end of the row.The 14 (16, 18, 20, 22) sts remaining on the needle make up the Right Shoulder Strap; The 14(16, 18, 20, 22) sts places on the stitch holder make up the Left Shoulder Strap.

Right Shoulder StrapRow 2 (RS)- K1, P1, MsI, *K1, P1, repeat from * to last four sts, K2tog, K1, P1.Row 3 (WS)- K1, P1, SSK, P1, *K1, P1, repeat from * to last st, MsI, K1. Repeat Rows 2 & 3 until strap measures approx. 5.5”, or desired length, from initial divide, place stitches onto a stitch holder. Cut yarn leaving a long tail.Left Shoulder StrapPlace sts put onto stitch holder for Left Shoulder strap back onto needle and join yarn so that the next row worked will be a RS row.Row 2 (RS)- K1, P1, SSK, P1, *K1, P1, repeat from * to last st, MsI, K1. Row 3 (WS)- K1, P1, MsI, *K1, P1, repeat from * to last four sts, K2tog, K1, P1.Repeat Rows 2 & 3 until strap measures approx. 5.5”, or desired length, from initial divide, place stitches onto a stitch holder. Cut yarn leaving a long tail.FRONT RIGHTPlace 47 (51, 57, 63, 72) sts put onto stitch holder for Front Left back onto needle and join yarn so that the next row worked will be a RS row.Row 1 (RS)- *K1, P1, repeat from * to last six sts, SSP, K2tog, P1, K1. 45 (49, 55, 61, 70)stsRow 2 (WS)- *P1, K1, repeat from * to last st, P1.Repeat Rows 1 & 2 eleven additional times. 23(27, 33, 39, 48) sts

© Feza Yarns 2011

Front Right StrapBO 9(11,15,19,26) sts, work remainin stitches in established K1, P1 ribbing. Continue to work straight in established pattern until strap measures approx. 6”, or desired length, from BO row.Place stitches onto a stitch holder. Cut yarn leaving a long tail.FRONT LEFTPlace 51 (55, 61, 67, 76) sts put onto stitch holder for Front Right back onto needle and join yarn so that the next row worked will be a WS row.Row 1 & 5(WS)- K1, P1, repeat from * to last six sts, K2tog, SSP, K1, P1. Row 2(RS)- *P1, K1, repeat from * to last four sts, BO 2 sts, K1, P1.Row 3- K1, P1, CO 2 sts, *K1, P1, repeat from * to last six sts, K2tog, SSP, K1, P1. Row 4 & 6- *P1, K1, rpeat from * to last st, P1.Repeat Rows 1 -6 three additional times, ending the last repetition on RS row # 5. 27(31, 36, 43, 52) sts.Front Left StrapBO 13(15,19,23,30) sts, work remainin stitches in established K1, P1 ribbing. Continue to workstraight in established pattern until strap measures approx. 6”, or desired length, from BO row.Place stitches onto a stitch holder. Cut yarn leaving a long tail.BOTTOM LACE BEADING

Please look at the attached beading chart for instructions on where to place each 2/0 beadwhile following the pattern below. Beads are places onto stitches, by removing them from the LH needle, sliping them through the big-eye beading needle's eye, sliping the desired bead onto the tip of the BE needle, pulling the bead along the length of the needle, which pulls the stitchthrough the bead. The bead is then sitting on the neck of the stitch with the loop of the stitch coming out through the bead. Slip the stitch back onto the LH needle and work according to thepattern.Using US # 7 circular needles, OR SIZE NEEDED TO OBTAIN GAUGE, evenly pick up 156 ( 168, 180, 204, 228) sts around the CO edge; Join to work in the round.Rnd 1- 4- Knit around.Rnd 5, 7, 9- *K1, K2tog twice, (yo, K1) three times, yo (sl 1, K1, psso) twice, repeat from * to end of row.Rnd 6, 8, 10- Purl around.

© Feza Yarns 2011

Row 6- Purl Repeat Rows 1- 10 once more.

FINISHINGUsing the three-needle bind-off technique connect the front and back left and right strapes together. Use tapestry needle to weave in all loose ends.

© Feza Yarns 2011

www.tahkistacycharles.com © 2011 Tahki Stacy Charles, Inc.

SUMMER NIGHTS LACY SHAWL/SCARF designed by Kristin Omdahl

SIZE One size

KNITTED MEASUREMENTS Width 66”/167.5cm Length to Tip 23”/58.5cm

MATERIALS • 1 ball Filatura Di Crosa NIRVANA 100% extrafine merino wool (0.88oz/25g; 372yd/340m) in color #02 blush (A) • 2 balls Filatura Di Crosa SUPERIOR 70% cashmere, 25% schappe silk, 5% extrafine merino (0.88oz/25g; 330yd/300m) in color #29 petal pink (B) • One #7 (4.5mm) circular needle, 32”/80cm or longer OR SIZE TO OBTAIN GAUGE • Yarn needle

GAUGE 12 sts and 20 rows = 4”/10cm in Garter stitch, with 1 strand each of A and B held together, after blocking TAKE TIME TO CHECK GAUGE NOTES: Gauge is not critical for this project. SHAWL/SCARF is worked with 1 strand each of A and B held together unless otherwise stated.

SHAWL/SCARF Cast on 5 sts. Row 1 (RS) K1, * yo, k1; rep from * to end – 9 sts. Row 2 and all even numbered rows (WS) Knit. Row 3 K1, yo, k3, yo, k1, yo, k3, yo, k1 – 13 sts. Row 5 K1, yo, k5, yo, k1, yo, k5, yo, k1 – 17 sts. Row 7 K1, yo, k7, yo, k1, yo, k7, yo, k1 – 21 sts. Row 9 K1, yo, k9, yo, k1, yo, k9, yo, k1 – 25 sts. Row 11 K1, yo, k11, yo, k1, yo, k11, yo, k1 – 29 sts. Rows 13-116 Continue in this manner, increasing 4 sts every RS row – 237 sts.

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www.tahkistacycharles.com © 2011 Tahki Stacy Charles, Inc.

Tier 1 of Edging NOTE: Edging is worked in one long row with many short row turns along the way. DO NOT wrap and turn between each short row. Skipping the wrap and turn creates a pretty open edge. Row 1 * K13, turn, k12, turn, k11, turn, k10, turn, k9, turn, k8, turn, k7, turn, k6, turn, k5, turn, k4, turn, k3, turn, k2, turn, k1, turn, k7, loosely bind off 15 sts *. Rep from * to * 7 more times, except on last rep, only bind off 14 sts. Rep from * to * 8 more times, except on last rep, only bind off 13 sts. Tier 2 of Edging NOTE To create tiers of edging, pick up and knit into Garter ridge every 14 rows from previous tiered edge. With one strand of B only, working in bumps along Row 102, pick up and knit in each st across – 209 sts. Row 1 * K13, turn, k12, turn, k11, turn, k10, turn, k9, turn, k8, turn, k7, turn, k6, turn, k5, turn, k4, turn, k3, turn, k2, turn, k1, turn, k7, loosely bind off 15 sts *. Rep from * to * 6 more times, except on last rep, bind off 16 sts. Rep from * to * 7 more times, except on last rep, only bind off 13 sts. Tier 3 of Edging With one strand of A only, working in bumps along Row 88, pick up and knit in each st across – 181 sts. Row 1 * K13, turn, k12, turn, k11, turn, k10, turn, k9, turn, k8, turn, k7, turn, k6, turn, k5, turn, k4, turn, k3, turn, k2, turn, k1, turn, k7, loosely bind off 15 sts *. Rep from * to * 5 more times, except on last rep, bind off 18

sts. Rep from * to * 6 more times, except on last rep, only bind off 13 sts. Tier 4 of Edging With one strand of B only, working in bumps along Row 74, pick up and knit in each st across – 153 sts. Row 1 * K13, turn, k12, turn, k11, turn, k10, turn, k9, turn, k8, turn, k7, turn, k6, turn, k5, turn, k4, turn, k3, turn, k2, turn, k1, turn, k7, loosely bind off 15 sts *. Rep from * to * 4 more times, except on last rep, bind off 20 sts. Rep from * to * 5 more times, except on last rep, only bind off 13 sts. Tier 5 of Edging With one strand of A only, working in bumps along Row 60, pick up and knit in each st across – 125 sts. Row 1 * K13, turn, k12, turn, k11, turn, k10, turn, k9, turn, k8, turn, k7, turn, k6, turn, k5, turn, k4, turn, k3, turn, k2, turn, k1, turn, k7, loosely bind off 16 sts *. Rep from * to * 7 more times, except on last rep, only bind off 13 sts.

FINISHING Block to finished measurements. Weave in ends.

ABBREVIATIONS k knit rem remain(ing)(s) rep repeat(ed)(ing)(s) RS right side st(s) stitch(es) WS wrong side yo yarn over

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PANDORA & FLAMENCO FLOUNCE RUFFLED SCARF Designed by: Barry Klein Copyright: November 2010

TRENDSETTER YARNS USED:

Pandora #12-3(6)/50gr. –Scarf

Flamenco #148-1(2)/100gr. -Scarf

Trendsetter Needles #9

SIZES: Scarf 6 ½” x 68” or 13” x 68”.

GAUGE: With #9 needle and Pandora in

Corrugated Garter: 16sts =4”.

STITCHES USED:

Corrugated Garter:

Row 1: Knit across the row.

Row 2: Purl across the row.

Row 3: Purl across the row.

Row 4: Knit across the row.

Pandora & Flamenco Flounce Ruffled Scarf/Wrap – Knitting Instructions

Flamenco Embellishment: Flamenco is a ribbon that when opened up looks like fishermen’s net.

To make Flamenco ruffle, you will be knitting through each “top” edge box along one edge of ribbon. On

Embellishment row. Open up a length of Flamenco by running fingers along the ribbon to separate. Take

end of Flamenco and fold over to overlap two boxes along top edge. Fold ribbon in half horizontally so

bottom is now folded behind top edge. Place Flamenco on back side of work. Place Rt. Needle into first

stitch on Left Needle and then into open boxes of flamenco. Knit stitch, pulling stitch through Flamenco

and Pandora. (Flamenco is now hemmed and no tails will need to be buried.) Drop horizontal fold of

Flamenco. Knit next stitch on Left needle and pick up top edge of ribbon into next open box with point of

Rt. needle. Knit pulling yarn through both stitches. Repeat this across the row to embellish the row with

Flamenco until 1 stitch remains. Cut through 5th open box of Flamenco and cut down through ribbon. Fold

edge back and then horizontally like at the start. Pick up folded edge boxes and knit last Pandora stitch on

left needle to hem tail into last stitch.

SCARF/WRAP: With #9 needle and Pandora, Cast on 24(48)sts. Work in Corrugated Garter pattern for

16 rows. Change to work as follows, joining Flamenco following Flamenco Join instructions and ending

following same instructions. At the same time, be sure to carry Pandora “up” on the inside on

every Knit row so when Flamenco is done, Pandora is in place and ready to be worked again.:

*6 rows Flamenco in Stock St., 32 rows Pandora in Corrugated Garter*

Repeat from *to* until desired length and ending with 16 rows of Pandora. Bind off on next row.

KEONA Knit Scarfto knit or crochet

by: Kristin Omdahl

A lovely little treasure perfect for a luxurious one ball project. The scarf takes only a few hours to knit. It is great for a last minute gift idea but don’t forget to make one for your-self, too! Keona is a dainty scarf that can be worn as a pretty accessory year round: cashmere or alpaca in the winter, silk or bamboo in the summer.

The scarf is 34” long and 2.5” wide. You can wrap it around your neck in a few ways, but it is also long enough to wear as a headband, too.

KNIT SCARF: MATERIALS:Light blue sample:1 ball ea Crystal and Superior. Filatura di Crosaor: 2 strands of laceweight yarn held togetherPeriwinkle sample: 100 yds of 1 strand fingering weight yarnUS3 knitting needlesGauge: 5 sts/6 rows = 1” in garter stitch, but gauge is not critical for this projectFinished size: 34” long x 2.5” wide

CROCHET SCARFMaterials: Light pink sample: 1 ball ea Nirvana and Superior, Filatura di Crosaor 100 yds ea of 2 strands laceweight yarn held togetherDark pink sample: 1 ball Blissor: 90 yards of 1 strand fingering weight yarnGauge: 5 sts/3 rows = 1” in double cro-chet, but gauge is not critical for this projectFinished size: 34” long x 2.5” wide

http://www.styledbykristin.com

Instructions:KNIT SCARFCO 42 stsKnit 16 rowsRow 1: knit acrossRow 2 (and all even numbered rows: knit across, except on the rows after a yo twice, knit into the front and back of the yo on previous rowRow 3: k5, ssk, yotwice, k2tog, k5Row 5: k3, (ssk, yotwice, k2tog)x2, k3Row 7: rep row 1Row 9: rep row 3Row 11: rep row 1Row 13: knit acrossRow 14: knit acrossRows 15 - 182: rep rows 1 - 14 twelve more timesKnit 16 rowsBO all stitches

Weave in loose ends.

CROCHET SCARFMaterials: Light pink sample: 1 ball ea Nirvana and Superior, Filatura di Crosaor 100 yds ea of 2 strands laceweight yarn held togetherDark pink sample: 1 ball Blissor: 90 yards of 1 strand fingering weight yarnch41Row 1: dc in 4th ch from hook and ea ch across - 39 dcsRow 2: ch3 (counts as dc), work 1 dc in ea st across. -- 39 dcsRow 3 - 6: rep row 2Row 7: ch3 (counts as dc), work dc3tog across row, dc2tog over last 2 sts. -- 13 dcsRow 8: ch3 (counts as dc), work 1 dc in ea st acrossRow 9: ch3 (counts as dc), work 1 dc in ea of next 4 sts, ch3, skip next st, dc3tog in next st, ch3, skip

next st, work 1 dc in ea of last 5 sts.Row 10: ch3 (counts as dc), work 1 dc in next st, skip next 3 sts, ch3, dc2tog in side of dc just worked, sc in next ch3 sp, sc in next st, sc in next ch3 sp, ch3, dc2tog in side of sc just worked, skip next 3 sts, work 1 dc in ea of last 2 sts.Row 11: ch3 (counts as dc), work 1 dc in next st, ch7, 1 sc in ea of next 3 scs, ch7, work 1 dc in ea of last 2 sts.Row 12: ch3 (counts as dc), work 1dc in next st, 3dc in next ch7 sp, ch3, skip next sc, work dc3tog in next sc, ch3, skip next sc, work 3 dc in next ch7sp, work 1dc in ea of last 2 sts.Row 13: ch3 (counts as dc), work 1 dc in ea of next 4 sts, 1dc in next ch3 sp, 1dc in next st, 1dc in next ch3 sp, 1dc in ea st across. -- 13 dcsRow 14 - 74 : rep rows 8 - 13 (ten) more times.Row 75: 3dc in ea st across. -- 39 dcsRow 76 - 80: ch3 (counts as dc), work 1 dc in ea st across. -- 39 dcsFasten off.Weave in loose ends.

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Skill Level

Finished size: 6” tall Materials Yarn:

Dream (100% Acrylic, 224 yards/205 meters; 3½ ounces/100 grams)

• #24-204 Baby Pink (MC) – 1 ball

• #24-203 Baby Yellow (CC) – 1 ball Crochet hook: US F-5 (3.75 mm) Extras: Yarn needle, 2 yards black embroidery floss, polyester fiberfill for stuffing Gauge 9 sc and 9 sc rnds = 2”. While gauge is not crucial for this project, work evenly and consistently though. Stitches should be firm and even, with no gaps for stuffing to show through. Change hook size if necessary to obtain a firm crochet fabric.

Special Abbreviation Sc2tog (single crochet 2 together): Draw up a loop in each of next 2 sts, yo and pull through both loops on hook – 1 sc decreased.

Abbreviations beg beginning CC contrast color ch chain MC main color mm millimeter rem remaining rep repeat rnd round sc single crochet sl st slip stitch st(s) stitch(es) yo yarn over * repeat instructions after asterisk as indicated Project notes

• Do not join rnds unless otherwise specified. Insert a contrasting piece of yarn in the last st of rnd and move this yarn up with each rnd.

• Stuff pieces firmly, but do not overstuff and distort stitches so that stuffing shows through.

HEAD With MC, ch 2. Rnd 1: 6 sc in second ch from hook. Rnd 2: 2 sc in each sc around – 12 sc. Rnd 3: * Sc in next sc, 2 sc in next sc; rep from * around – 18 sc. Rnd 4: * Sc in each of next 2 sc, 2 sc in next sc; rep from * around – 24 sc. Rnd 5: Sc in each sc around. Rnd 6: * Sc in each of next 3 sc, 2 sc in next sc; rep from * around – 30 sc. Rnd 7: * Sc in each of next 4 sc, 2 sc in next sc; rep from * around – 36 sc. Rnd 8: Sc in each sc around. Rnd 9: * Sc in each of next 5 sc, 2 sc in next sc; rep from * around – 42 sc. Rnds 10-13: Sc in each sc around. Rnd 14: * Sc in each of next 5 sc, sc2tog; rep from * around – 36 sc. Rnd 15: * Sc in each of next 4 sc, sc2tog; rep from * around – 30 sc. Rnd 16: Sc in each sc around. Rnd 17: * Sc in each of next 3 sc, sc2tog; rep from * around – 24 sc. Rnd 18: * Sc in each of next 2 sc, sc2tog; rep from * around – 18 sc. Rnd 19: * Sc in next sc, sc2tog; rep from * around – 12 sc. Stuff head firmly. Rnd 20: Sc2tog around; fasten off, leaving a 12” yarn end – 6 sc.

Spring Chickie Design by Michelle Wilcox

Finish stuffing head. Thread yarn end through yarn needle and weave through each st. Pull tightly to close opening. Knot yarn securely and thread yarn to inside head; cut. BODY With MC, ch 2. Rnds 1-4: Rep Rnds 1-4 of head – 24 sc. Rnds 5-10: Sc in each sc around. Rnd 11: * Sc in each of next 2 sc, sc2tog; rep from * around – 18 sc. Rnd 12 (neck opening): * Sc in next sc, sc2tog; rep from * around; fasten off – 12 sc. Stuff body firmly. Sew head to neck opening. BEAK With CC, ch 2. Rnd 1: 6 sc in second ch from hook. Rnds 2-4: 2 sc in first sc, sc in each rem sc; fasten off at end of Rnd 4 – 9 sc. Stuff lightly and sew to front of head, using photo as a guide. FOOT (Make 2) * With CC, ch 6, sc in second ch from hook and each rem ch across, rep from * 2 times; fasten off – 3 toes formed. Sew each foot to bottom of body, using photo as a guide. WING (Make 2) With MC, ch 2. Rep Rnds 1-4 of beak. Do not stuff. Pinch Rnd 4 closed flat and sew one wing to each side of body, using photo as a gide. FINISHING Using photo as a guide, embroider eyes using a doubled length of black embroidery floss. Sew loops of yarn to top of head and back of body to resemble feathers.

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1 ©2011 Premier Yarns

Knit Big Button Wrap Design by Amy Polcyn

Skill Level

Wrap measures approximately 16" x 60" and fits most women. Yarn: Deborah Norville Collection Serenity Chunky Weight

• DN600-02 Red Bayou – 5 balls Knitting needles: US 11 (8mm) or size to obtain gauge Extras: Yarn needle, two 2¼" buttons

Gauge: 12 sts and 16 rows = 4" in patt. Use any size needles to obtain specified gauge. Abbreviations k – knit; p – purl; patt – pattern; rep – repeat; RS – right side; sl – slip stitch purlwise; st(s) – stitch(es); tog – together; WS – wrong side; [ ] – repeat instructions in brackets the number of times specified; * – repeat instructions after asterisk as specified.

Wrap: Cast on 49 sts. Work in garter st (knit every row) for ½", ending with a WS row. Row 1 (RS): Sl 1, * k1 and leave on left hand needle, bring yarn to front and purl this and next st tog, k1; rep from * across. Row 2: Sl 1, purl to end. Rep Rows 1 and 2 until piece measures 12" from beg, ending with Row 2. Next Row (RS): Work in established patt for 6 sts, bind off next 5 sts, work in established patt to end. Next Row: Work in established patt, casting on 5 sts over gap to close buttonhole. Work even in established patt until piece measures 59½" from beg, ending with Row 2. Work in garter st for ½" more. Bind off all sts. Finishing Pin out to measurements and damp block lightly, if desired. Sew 1 button approximately 17" from bind-off edge. Sew 2nd button a few inches below the first. Weave in ends. When wearing, use button that provides desired fit.

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3805 RUFFLED SCARVES Designed by Laura Bryant ©2005

Prism Arts, Inc 3140 39th Ave N. St. Petersburg, FL 33714 www.prismyarn.com

Version 1: ANGORA X TWO SIZE: approx 3” x 46” MATERIALS: 2 skeins Angora, # 10 needle With either Angora, CO 96 sts. Row 1: K and inc 1 in each st across—192 sts. Row 2: *Inc in next st, inc in next st, k 1; rep from *. 320 sts. Knit 6 rows. BO all sts. With 2nd Angora, pick up 192 sts in CO row. Next row: rep row 2 from above. Finish as for 1st skein. Version 2: TULLE & ANGORA 2 skeins Tulle, 1 skein Angora Work base ruffle with Tulle. Work Angora for 2nd ruffle. Repeat 2nd ruffle on other side of Angora with Tulle.

FROSTY RUFFLES MATERIALS: 2 Frost Crochet hook size I Ch 180. Work 1 sc in ea chain, then ch 5, and without turning, work 8 treble crochet in end of row; then cont down back side of sc strip, work 2 tc in each sc st; work 8 tc in end of row; then 2 tc in ea sc along other side.

Luscious Angora, paired in contrasting colors or juxtaposed with another texture,

ruffles up into a really great accent

scarf.

Far left, Angora in Dune and Fog.

Near left, Angora and Tulle in Lipstick.

A crocheted version works up quickly in Frost. A single scarf, right, in Blue Lagoon can become

oh so much more when paired with another scarf in Woodlands, as in the detail below. Go nuts!

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#444 Bethany Cardigan

designed by Mathew Gnagy

To fit chest measurements:32 (34, 36, 38, 40, 42)”

Yarn:9 (10, 11, 12, 13, 14) sks Valley Yarns Superwash DK (100% Extrafine Merino Superwash, 50g/137yd) color 18 Classic Navy

Needles:US size 4 (3.50mm) and 7 (4.50mm) or size needed to get gauge

Notions:stitch markers12 – 5/8” buttons

Gauge:22 sts and 30 rows = 4” in stockinette stitch with larger needles

Abbreviations:beg: beginning; BO: bind off; CO: cast on; k: knit; k2tog: knit 2 together; kfb: knit in the front and back of one st; p: purl; PM: place marker; RS / WS: right side / wrong side; SM: slip marker; ssk: slip 2 sts as if to knit, put tip of left needle up into both sts and knit them together; St st: stockinette stitch (k on RS, p on WS); st(s): stitch(es); yo: yarn over

Special Stitches:moss 5: work 5 sts in moss stW&T: slip next st with yarn in back, move yarn to front, slip st back to left needle and turn work around

Moss Stitch (worked over any number of sts):Row 1 (RS): *K1, p1; rep from *.Rows 2 and 4: Knit the knit sts and purl the purl sts.Row 3: *P1, k1; rep from *.Repeat rows 1-4.

Double Garter Stitch (worked over any number of sts):Row 1 (RS): Purl.Row 2 (WS): Knit.Row 3: Knit.Row 4: Purl.Repeat rows 1-4.

Back:With larger needles, cast on 24 (26, 28, 30, 32, 34) sts and purl one WS row.

Row 1 (RS): K2, moss 5, k1, PM, k7, PM, k2, moss 5, k2.Row 2 (WS): K the k sts and p the p stsWork these 2 rows a total of 10 times, slipping the marker as you come to it.

Row 1 (RS): K2, moss 5, k1, SM kfb, k to 1st before marker, kfb, SM, k2, moss 5, k2. (2 sts increased)Rows 2 and 4 (WS): K the k sts and p the p sts.Row 3: K2, moss 5, k2, SM, k to marker, SM, k2, moss 5, k2.Work these 4 rows a total of 24 (25, 26, 27, 28, 29) times. 72 (76, 80, 84, 88, 92) sts on the needle.

Shape Armhole:Row 1 (RS): K2, moss 5, W&T.Row 2 (WS): Moss 5, p2.Row 3: K2, moss 5, k1, working wrap with wrapped stitch, remove marker, W&T.Row 4: P1, moss 5, p2.Row 5: K2, moss 5, k to marker, remove marker, k2, moss 5, k2.Row 6: P2, moss 5, W&T.Row 7: Moss 5, k2.Row 7: P2, moss 5, p1 working wrap with wrapped stitch, W&T, Row 8: K1, moss 5, k2.Row 9: K1, moss 5, k2Row 10: K the k sts and p the p sts, taking care to work the final wrap with the wrapped st.

Work even in established moss and St st patterns for 14 (16, 18, 20, 22, 24) rows.

Row 1 (RS): K3, k2tog, k to last 5 sts, ssk, k3.Row 2 (WS): Purl.Work these 2 rows a total of 22 (23, 24, 25, 26, 27) times.28 (30, 32, 34, 36, 38) sts remaining.Bind off tightly.

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Right Front:With larger needles, cast on 88 (91, 94, 97, 100, 103) and purl one WS row.

Work 12 rows Double Garter Stitch.

Main Body:Row 1 (RS): [K2, p2] twice, k to 11sts from end, p2, k2, moss 5, k2.Row 2 (WS): K the k sts and p the p sts.Work these 2 rows a total of 6 (7, 8, 9, 10, 11) times.

Row 1 (RS): (K2, p2) twice, k to 11sts from end, p2, k2, moss5, k to1st before end, kf&b.Row 2 (WS): K the k sts and p the p sts.Work these 2 rows a total of 3 (4, 5, 6, 7, 8) times . NOTE: The first 2 increased sts are p sts, all following increased sts are k sts.91 (95, 99, 103, 107, 111) sts.

At the beginning of the next row (WS), cast on 42 (44, 46, 48, 50, 52) sts using the cable cast on method.133 (139, 145, 151, 157, 163) sts total.

Shape shoulder: Row 1 (WS): P2, W&T.Row 2 (RS): K2.Row 3: P to wrapped st, work wrapped st together with its wrap, p1, W&T.Row 4: Knit.Work rows 3 and 4 a total of 14 (15, 16, 17, 18, 19) times.

Next row (WS): Work in established patterns across row, working final wrap with wrapped st.

Work even in pattern for 22 (24, 26, 28, 30, 32) rows.Work 1 RS row.

Shape Neckline:At the beginning of the next WS row, bind off 11 (12, 13, 14, 15, 16) sts and work remainder of row in pattern as established. 122 (127, 132, 137, 142, 147) sts.

Row 1 (RS): Work in pattern to last 5 sts, ssk, k3. (1 st decreased)Row 2 (WS): K the k sts and p the p sts.Work these 2 rows a total of 8 (9, 10, 11, 12, 13) times. 114 (118, 122, 126, 130, 134) sts.

Short row shaping:Row 1: [K2, p2] twice, k8, W&T.Row 2: Work in pattern to end.Row 3: [K2, p2] twice, making sure to work wrap with wrapped st, k16, W&T.Row 4: Work in pattern to end.Row 5: [K2, p2] twice, making sure to work wrap with wrapped st, k24, W&T.Row 6: Work in pattern to end.

Continue in this manner, working 8 additional sts after each wrapped st until all stockinette sts below moss stitch band at bust have been consumed. NOTE: depending on your size, the final set of sts will not be a full 8 sts, wrap and turn on the last stockinette st before the band begins.

Work 4 (4, 6, 6, 8, 8) complete rows without shaping.

Change to smaller needles and work buttonhole band as follows:Row 1 (RS): KnitRow 2 (WS): PurlRow 3: PurlRow 4: KnitRow 5 (Buttonhole Row): Knit, placing 10 evenly spaced buttonholes across row by working (yo, k2tog) for each buttonhole. Row 6: Purl.Row 7: Purl.Row 8: KnitRow 9: KnitRow 10: PurlRow 11: Bind off knitwise.

Left Front:With larger needle, cast on 88 (91, 94, 97, 100, 103) and purl one wrong side row.


Main Body:Row 1 (RS): K2, moss 5, k2, p2, k to last 8sts, (p2, k2)twiceRow 2 (WS): K the k sts and p the p sts.Work these 2 rows a total of 6 (7, 8, 9, 10, 11) times.



#444 Bethany CardiganRow 1 (RS): Kfb, k1, moss 5, k2, p2, k to last 8 sts, (p2, k2) twice.Row 2 (WS): K the k sts and p the p sts.Work these 2 rows a total of 3 (4, 5, 6, 7, 8) times . NOTE: The first 2 increased sts are p sts, all following increased sts are k sts.91 (95, 99, 103, 107, 111) sts.

At the beginning of the next row (RS), cast on 42 (44, 46, 48, 50, 52) sts using the cable cast on method.133 (139, 145, 151, 157, 163) sts total.

Shape shoulder: Row 1: K2, W&T.Row 2: P2.Row 3: K to wrapped st, work wrapped st together with its wrap, k1, W&T.Row 4: Purl.Work rows 3-4 a total of 14 (15, 16, 17, 18, 19) times.

Next row (RS): Work in established patterns acros row, working final wrap with wrapped st.

Work even in pattern for 22 (24, 26, 28, 30, 32) rows.

Shape Neckline:At the beginning of the next RS row, bind off 11 (12, 13, 14, 15, 16) sts and work remainder of row in pattern as established. 122 (127, 132, 137, 142, 147) sts.

Row 1 (RS): K3, k2tog, work in patt to end.Row 2 (WS): K the k sts and p the p sts.Work these 2 rows a total of 8 (9, 10, 11, 12, 13) times. 114 (118, 122, 126, 130, 134) sts.

Short row shaping: Note: Odd numbered rows will be on the WRONG side for these short rows.

Row 1(WS): [P2, k2] twice, p8, W&T.Row 2 (RS): Work in pattern to end.Row 3: [P2, k2] twice, making sure to work wrap with wrapped st, p16, W&T.Row 4: Work in pattern to end.Row 5: [P2, k2] twice, making sure to work wrap with wrapped st, p24, W&T.Row 6: Work in pattern to end.

Continue in this manner, working 8 additional sts after each wrapped st until all stockinette sts below moss stitch band at bust have been consumed.

NOTE: depending on your size, the final set of sts will not be a full 8 sts, wrap and turn on the last stockinette st before the band begins.

Work 4 (4, 6, 6, 8, 8) complete rows without shaping.

Change to smaller needles and work button band as follows:Row 1 (RS): Knit.Row 2 (WS): Purl.Row 3: PurlRow 4: Knit.Work these 4 rows a total of 3 times, binding off knitwise on the final row 4.

Sleeves (make 2):With smaller needles, cast on 36 (38, 40, 42, 44, 46) sts.


Change to larger needles and work 30 (28, 26, 24, 22, 20) rows of Moss Stitch.

Row 1 (RS): Kfb, moss to last 2 sts, kfb. (2 sts increased)Rows 2 through 8: Work even in moss st.Work these 8 rows a total of 4 (4, 4, 5, 5, 5) times. 44 (46, 48, 52, 54, 56) sts.

Work a purl ridge as follows (without increases)Row 1 (RS): Knit.Row 2 (WS): Purl.Row 3: Purl.Row 4: Knit.

Work even in Stockinette, increasing at beg and end of every 8th

row until there are 60 (64, 68, 72, 76, 80) sts.

Sleeve cap:Bind off 4( 4, 5, 5, 6, 6) sts at the beginning of the next 2 rows. 52 (56, 58, 62, 64, 68) sts.

Decrease 1 st at beg and end of every 4th row 5 (5, 6, 6, 7, 7) times then every 2nd row 7 (8, 9, 10, 11, 12) times.Bind off tightly.

Weave in all endsBlock all pieces lightly with a steam IronAssemble fronts to backs and sew up underarm seamsSet in sleeves

Collar: Using smaller needles and with RS facing, cast on 8 sts, pick up 67 (69, 71, 73, 75, 77) sts around neckline. Note: pickup row counts as row 1 of collar.Rows 2and 3: PurlRow 4: Knit. Row 5 (Buttonhole row): K2, k2tog, yo, ssk, k3, k2tog, yo, ssk, k to end.Row 6 (WS): P across to yo, [k1, p] in same yo, p to next yo, [k1, p1] in same yo, p to end.Row 7: PurlRows 8 and 9: Knit.Rows 10 and 11: Purl.Row 12: Bind off knitwise.

Mark locations for buttons using the buttonholes as a guide.Sew on buttons.






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