freeze caps.doc

8/10/2019 freeze caps.doc

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So this will be a continuing evolution ofmultiple Form 1 suppressors, once youget past the rst eform1 they tend tobe very addicting This will not be adenite how-to, but should be close.And its my rst write up, so its notgoing to be pretty.

do not have a mill or lather or the!now how to run one but can adaptand get it done without. "lease followsafe practices if you use any of thisinfo. And ma!e sure you follow all lawsand regs.

#e will be using S$tactical tubes andadapters as well as Stainless tubesfrom apogee and a %u&&le bra!e from'arrison gear(the not so 1))*+ All

suppressors are being made for .)but some will be used solely on /, hate uni-tas!ers. The rst -/suppressors will be for ))AA0 and/, . and some pistol cans willfollow in a month or two.


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This is the layout will be following,nnitegrim drew this up based on myinput.

First you will need to pic! a tube.

S$tac is the top blac! steel(*1 for.23+, Apogee Stainless tube(*4.23+ in the center and the'arrisongear mu&&le bra!e(*) steel)cal+ at the bottom


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The 'arrison gear mu&&le bra!e onlyneeds a tube and some way to holdthe tube in place, it is a mu&&le bra!ethat lends itself well to secondary

uses. t is solid steel and pretty heavy,


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and similar to a monocore, and youcan get it in 156or 564 threadingor blan! for your own threading. %ybra!e is )cal with 564 threading.%ore on this bra!e in a later post.

S$tactical o7ers end caps(adapters+ inthreaded(your choice in threads+ or fora 8ri9n mu&&le bra!e(his own house

version also+. choose to go with8ri9n mu&&le bra!es and Flash comps. am building dedicated ))AA0 cansfor of my guns but going with the8ri9n bra!e will add some e6traba:ing and a sacricial o7ering, the

rest of my guns will be getting 8ri9nFlash comps as the suppressors willnot be living on them permanently. was a ;orte6 Fan boy before, but amdigging these 8ri9n comps

8ri9n %u&&le


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8ri9n Flash 0omp in /


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-rings.

purchased my >-rings fromtheoringstore.com and they were%odel s2)14. They are a bit thic!erthen the >-ring that comes on a%aglite but t perfectly for me.

>-rings, the blac! o-ring is a maglite


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All Free&e plugs are Sealed "ower 1-12?, the $oorman type may wor! but

they are slightly bigger and lower@uality. ou can nd these free&e plugsat your local autoparts store but theymay have to add them. Should be .4)-.) cents each


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also used onlinemetals.com forspacer material for the blast chamberand spacers for ba:es.

The typical process have seen to formba:es is using a vice5press and abearing to form the cone. !new there


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had to be something better and founda 4deg cone on some automotive

Baw pullers have for my Ceep, it is thecenter piece on the threaded shaft andobtained from 3 jaw puller

The 4deg cone, the ring on the conewas from wor!ing on my Beep, used anew cone from one of the other pullers

in the set
http://www.harborfreight.com/three-jaw-puller-set-3-pc-69105.htmlhttp://www.harborfreight.com/three-jaw-puller-set-3-pc-69105.html


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threaded for the puller

Found that while the 4deg cone dida good Bob it was not to my li!ing andnot close enough for me to the /)degthat believe is preferred for ba:es.So scoured the internet for something

better and found thisit has a /)degcone and was pretty cheap so too! agamble

/)deg with 4deg
http://www.grizzly.com/products/HSS-Lathe-Center-MT2/H5789http://www.grizzly.com/products/HSS-Lathe-Center-MT2/H5789


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So thin! that is it for parts andhardware that needed to complete asuppressor, did leave out thecentering tool for the free&e plugs()*+

and had also bought several drill bits(cheap o7 ebay+to include a .2) bitfor nal si&ing of my holes, it is roughly.)/3 bigger then .) that believe is agood plus si&ing on your hole.


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Dow that everything is on hand myrst order of business is forming someba:es. will not be showing the actualdrilling and pressing, if needed cansnag pics of that in process.

Step one, drilling the 153 center,drilled all the way through. This not

only locates your center but gives the0ones a place to rest when forming toremain center.


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Step two, the free&e plug to be formed

is placed cup side down onto asoc!et(253 was almost a perfect t,tape nished it+


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Dow the ne6t step had originally doneBust a 4 but !nowing a /)deg ispreferred wanted to do the /).'owever @uic!ly learned doing the/)deg would open up the 153 hole tofast and not get enough cone and endup with to big of a hole. So stepped itwith the 4 then /). Cust using the 4


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deg cone re@uires more drilling as itdoes not open the hole up much(.3or so+

4deg only(nal .2) drilled hole+, 4then /)deg(. hole not nal drilled+,/)deg only(.4 hole+

/)deg only(.4 hole+, 4 then /)deg(.hole not nal drilled+, 4degonly(nal .2) drilled hole+


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Step three, Form the 4deg. Esing thepress(or a vice+ you force the cone into

the free&e plug, if using a press becareful if you use to much force youcan start drawing the plug into thesoc!et. go Bust till the sides of thecone touch the free&e plug


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Step four, Form the /)deg. Same aswith the 4deg but this time the /)degcone is going to open up the hole@uic!ly so you need to chec! it a fewtimes with calipers(the hole+ to ma!esure you do not go past your nal si&e,you can get it to the nal si&e but prefer to nal ream it in my drill pressso will stop a bit short.


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Step Five, for me its the nal ream(nopic+ or if you formed it till you achievedyour proper hole si&e Bust admire yourwor!.0enter plug


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Step si6, spacers and the blastchamber. need to snag more pics sofor now Bust one. used a 1.23 6 .)/thic!ness steel tube for the blastchamber, the inside of the suppressortube is 1.ish so obviously it will nott so used my belt sander andreduced the outside of the blastchamber piece down to 1.3 test

tting as went until it t how li!ed,ended with .) thic!ness. >n thisspecic suppressor Aluminum spacerfor the ba:er were used and Bustclipped out a section and twea!edthem to shape. used a tubing cutter

to cut everything, From LowesAndalso to nal t everything used mybelt sander.

De6t step, is assembly, and will postmore on this later to include my ba:e

layout and spacer si&ing and such. need to snag more pics.

will also be posting video reviews ofall types(/3tube, .23 tube,

'arrison bra!e+ on both ))aac
http://www.lowes.com/pd_331920-943-36878.UPP5_0__?productId=3234673&Ntt=tubing+cutte&pl=1&currentURL=%3FNtt%3Dtubing%2Bcutte&facetInfo=http://www.lowes.com/pd_331920-943-36878.UPP5_0__?productId=3234673&Ntt=tubing+cutte&pl=1&currentURL=%3FNtt%3Dtubing%2Bcutte&facetInfo=


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supers5subs and / red side by side. will be showing complete brea!downsup all si&es to include post and prering of the internals. So much more tocome over the ne6t few days5wee! ortwo.

The Tools I used....

'and $rill


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.2)3 $rill $ .

)4?3 #all bought from>nlinemetals.comS$ Tactical Titanium 2./3 TubeS$ Tactical Aluminum center mar!edaluminum endcapS$ Tactical Aluminum 8ri9n adapter.

"rocessK

Freeze Plugs:Esing centering toolK $rill 153 holeinto free&e plugs

Ta!e 4 degree cone (loo! at esstacIs


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thread to see where to get it+ andusing 0 clamp push it into the free&eplug to form 4 degree coneimpression

Ta!e /) degree 0one, "ress into free&eplug until the hole opens to around .2)3

Ta!e .2)3 $rill bit to each free&e plugto ma!e sure the holes are all atleast .

2)3

JndcapK$rill w5 .)3 $rill bit through$rill w5 .2)3 $rill bit through.

Spacer Material:

Esing belt sander, reduce >$ to t intotubeEsing "ipe 0utter, or dremel in my

case, to cut spacers to si&es youIvedetermined you want. %a!e onelonger, so you can sand it down untileverything screws together perfectly.

nternal Hayout


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