Greece

by John S. Bowman & Sherry Marker

5th Edition

Heres what the critics say about Frommers:

Amazingly easy to use. Very portable, very complete.Booklist

Detailed, accurate, and easy-to-read information for all price ranges.Glamour Magazine

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with cruise coverage by Rebecca Tobin

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Greece

by John S. Bowman & Sherry Marker

5th Edition

Heres what the critics say about Frommers:

Amazingly easy to use. Very portable, very complete.Booklist

Detailed, accurate, and easy-to-read information for all price ranges.Glamour Magazine

Hotel information is close to encyclopedic.Des Moines Sunday Register

Frommers Guides have a way of giving you a real feel for a place.Knight Ridder Newspapers

with cruise coverage by Rebecca Tobin

01_598317 ffirs.qxd 10/5/05 11:13 PM Page i

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Copyright 2006 Wiley Publishing, Inc., Hoboken, New Jersey. All rights reserved. Nopart of this publication may be reproduced, stored in a retrieval system or transmitted inany form or by any means, electronic, mechanical, photocopying, recording, scanning orotherwise, except as permitted under Sections 107 or 108 of the 1976 United StatesCopyright Act, without either the prior written permission of the Publisher, or authoriza-tion through payment of the appropriate per-copy fee to the Copyright Clearance Center,222 Rosewood Drive, Danvers, MA 01923, 978/750-8400, fax 978/646-8600. Requeststo the Publisher for permission should be addressed to the Legal Department, Wiley Pub-lishing, Inc., 10475 Crosspoint Blvd., Indianapolis, IN 46256, 317/572-3447, fax317/572-4355, or online at http://www.wiley.com/go/permissions.

Wiley and the Wiley Publishing logo are trademarks or registered trademarks of JohnWiley & Sons, Inc. and/or its affiliates. Frommers is a trademark or registered trademarkof Arthur Frommer. Used under license. All other trademarks are the property of theirrespective owners. Wiley Publishing, Inc. is not associated with any product or vendormentioned in this book.

ISBN-13: 978-0-7645-9831-9ISBN-10: 0-7645-9831-7

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1 The Best Travel Experiences . . . . . . . .6

2 The Best of Ancient Greece . . . . . . . .7

3 The Best of Byzantine & Medieval Greece . . . . . . . . . . . . . .10

4 The Best Beaches . . . . . . . . . . . . . .10

5 The Best Scenic Villages & Towns . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .11

6 The Best Islands . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .12

7 The Best Places to Get Away from It All . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .14

8 The Best Museums . . . . . . . . . . . . .14

9 The Best of Greeces Religious Treasures . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .15

10 The Best Resorts & Hotels . . . . . . . .16

11 The Best Restaurants . . . . . . . . . . .17

12 The Best Nightlife . . . . . . . . . . . . .18

13 The Best Natural Wonders . . . . . . .18

14 The Best Shopping . . . . . . . . . . . . .19

Contents

List of Maps vii

Whats New in Greece 1

The Best of Greece 61

1 The Regions in Brief . . . . . . . . . . . .21

Greece on the Web . . . . . . . . . . . .23

Security in Greece: Red Alert . . . . . .24

2 Visitor Information . . . . . . . . . . . . .26

3 Entry Requirements & Customs . . . .26

4 Money . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .29

5 When to Go . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .33

Greece Calendar of Events . . . . . . .35

6 Travel Insurance . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .39

7 Health & Safety . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .41

8 Specialized Travel Resources . . . . . .43

9 Planning Your Trip Online . . . . . . . .48

Frommers.com: The Complete Travel Resource . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .48

10 The 21st-Century Traveler . . . . . . . .50

11 Getting There . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .52

Flying with Film & Video . . . . . . . . .56

12 Group Tours . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .59

13 Special-Interest Trips . . . . . . . . . . . .60

14 Getting Around Greece . . . . . . . . . .64

Taxi Tips . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .73

15 Tips on Accommodations . . . . . . . .75

16 Tips on Dining . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .78

17 Recommended Books,Films & Music . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .79

Fast Facts: Greece . . . . . . . . . . . . .81

Planning Your Trip to Greece 21

by John S. Bowman

2

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C O N T E N T Siv

1 Greece in 1 Week . . . . . . . . . . . . .92

2 Greece in 2 Weeks . . . . . . . . . . . . .93

3 Greece with a Family . . . . . . . . . . .97

4 In the Footsteps of the Apostle Paul . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .100

Suggested Greece Itineraries 913

1 Choosing the Right Cruise for You . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .104

2 Calculating the Cost . . . . . . . . . . .105

3 Booking Your Cruise . . . . . . . . . . .106

4 Cruise Preparation Practicalities . . .109

5 Embarkation . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .111

6 End-of-Cruise Procedures . . . . . . .112

Dealing with Seasickness . . . . . . .112

7 The Cruise Lines & Their Ships . . . .113

8 Ships Visiting Greece on LongerMediterranean Itineraries . . . . . . .127

9 Best Shore Excursions in the Ports of Call: Greece . . . . . . . . . . .129

10 Best Shore Excursions in the Ports of Call: Turkey . . . . . . . . . . .134

Cruising the Greek Islands 103

by Rebecca Tobin

4

1 Orientation . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .137

Neighborhoods in Brief . . . . . . . . .148

2 Getting Around . . . . . . . . . . . . . .152

Athenss New Metro . . . . . . . . . .153

Fast Facts: Athens . . . . . . . . . . . .155

3 Where to Stay . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .159

4 Where to Dine . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .169

Quick Bites in Syntagma . . . . . . . .175

Settling into Athens 136

by Sherry Marker

5

1 The Top Attractions . . . . . . . . . . .181

2 More Museums & Galleries . . . . . .194

3 Ancient Monuments . . . . . . . . . . .197

4 Historic Buildings . . . . . . . . . . . . .197

5 Churches & Synagogues . . . . . . . .199

6 Parks & Gardens . . . . . . . . . . . . .200

7 Especially for Kids . . . . . . . . . . . .201

8 Organized Tours . . . . . . . . . . . . . .201

9 Spectator Sports . . . . . . . . . . . . .202

10 Shopping . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .202

11 Athens After Dark . . . . . . . . . . . .207

Ticket Information for the Athens (Hellenic), Lycabettus & Epidaurus Festivals . . . . . . . . . .208

12 Piraeus: A Jumping-Off Point to the Islands . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .213

13 Day Trips from Athens . . . . . . . . . .217

Exploring Athens 181

by Sherry Marker

6

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C O N T E N T S v

1 Aegina . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .227

2 Poros . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .232

3 Hydra (Idra) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .235

4 Spetses . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .240

The Saronic Gulf Islands 225

by Sherry Marker

7

1 Corinth . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .247

2 Nafplion . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .253

3 Mycenae . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .262

4 Epidaurus . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .266

5 Nemea . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .268

6 Argos . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .270

7 Sparta (Sparti) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .273

8 Vassae & Andritsena . . . . . . . . . .278

9 Monemvassia . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .280

10 The Mani . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .282

11 Pylos (Pilo/Navarino) . . . . . . . . . .287

12 Messene (Ithomi/Mavromati) . . . . .289

13 Olympia . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .291

The Ancient Olympic Games . . . . .291

14 Patras (Patra) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .297

The Peloponnese 245

by Sherry Marker

8

1 Iraklion (Heraklion) . . . . . . . . . . . .304

2 Chania (Hania/Xania/Canea) . . . . .315

3 Rethymnon (Rethimno) . . . . . . . . .325

4 Ayios Nikolaos . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .331

Crete 301

by John S. Bowman

9

1 Santorini (Thira) . . . . . . . . . . . . . .342

2 Folegandros . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .360

3 Sifnos . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .364

4 Paros . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .371

The Cave of Andiparos . . . . . . . . .377

5 Naxos . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .384

6 Mykonos (Mikonos) . . . . . . . . . . .393

7 Delos . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .406

8 Tinos . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .409

9 Siros (Syros) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .417

The Cyclades 339

by Sherry Marker

10

1 Rhodes (Rodos) . . . . . . . . . . . . . .425

2 Simi (Symi) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .446

Local Industries . . . . . . . . . . . . . .448

3 Kos . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .451

4 Patmos . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .461

The Dodecanese 423

by John S. Bowman

11

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C O N T E N T Svi

1 Delphi . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .471

2 Two Famous Battlefields:Thermopylae & Chaironeia . . . . . .481

3 The Vale of Tempe & Ambelakia . . . .482

4 Mount Olympus . . . . . . . . . . . . . .483

5 The Meteora . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .485

Central Greece 471

by Sherry Marker

12

1 Skiathos . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .491

2 Skopelos . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .502

3 Skyros (Skiros) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .509

The Famous Carnival of Skyros . . . .512

The Sporades 491

by John S. Bowman

13

1 Getting to & Around Epirus . . . . . .518

2 Ioannina . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .520

3 Side Trips from Ioannina . . . . . . . .527

Trekking into Vikos Gorge . . . . . .530

Highlights of Western Greece: Epirus & Ioannina 517

by John S. Bowman

14

1 Corfu (Kerkira) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .534 2 Kefalonia (Cephalonia) . . . . . . . . .548

The Ionian Islands 533

by John S. Bowman

15

1 Thessaloniki (Salonika) . . . . . . . . .556

Fast Facts: Thessaloniki . . . . . . . .564

The Food of Thessaloniki . . . . . . .585

2 In the Footsteps of Philip of Macedon & Alexander the Great . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .590

History 101: Philip & Alexander . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .592

History 101: Philips Tomb . . . . . .595

3 Mount Athos (The Holy Mountain) . . . . . . . . . . . . . .598

Highlights of Northern Greece: Thessaloniki,Mount Athos & the Philip & Alexander Sites 555

by Sherry Marker

16

1 Samos . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .602

2 Hios (Chios) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .613

3 Lesvos (Mitilini) . . . . . . . . . . . . . .620

4 Limnos (Lemnos) . . . . . . . . . . . . .628

The Northeastern Aegean Islands 601

by John S. Bowman

17

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C O N T E N T S vii

1 Making Your Way in Greek . . . . . .632 2 Useful Words & Phrases . . . . . . . .634

Appendix A: The Greek Language 632

Appendix B: Useful Toll-Free Numbers & Websites 640

Index 643

List of Maps

Greece 8

Greece by Plane 65

Greek Ferry Routes 67

Greece in 1 Week 93

Greece in 2 Weeks 95

Greece with a Family 99

In the Footsteps of the Apostle Paul 101

Athens & Environs 139

Athens at a Glance 146

Athens Accommodations 160

Accommodations & Dining South of the Acropolis 167

Athens Dining 170

Athens Attractions 182

The Acropolis & Monastiraki 185

Syntagma Square & Plaka 198

Piraeus 215

The Saronic Gulf Islands 226

Peloponnese 247

Patras 299

Crete 302

Iraklion 305

Chania 317

Rethymnon 327

Ayios Nikolaos 333

The Cyclades 340

Santorini 343

Fira 348

Mykonos Town 395

Delos 407

The Dodecanese 424

Rhodes Attractions 427

Rhodes Accommodations & Dining 434

Central Greece 473

Ancient Delphi 475

The Sporades 493

Ioannina 521

Western Greece & the Ionian Islands 535

Corfu Town 537

Kefalonia & Ithaka 549

Northern Greece 557

Thessaloniki 558

The Northeastern Aegean Islands 603

Vathi 605

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An Invitation to the ReaderIn researching this book, we discovered many wonderful placeshotels, restaurants, shops, andmore. Were sure youll find others. Please tell us about them, so we can share the informationwith your fellow travelers in upcoming editions. If you were disappointed with a recommenda-tion, wed love to know that, too. Please write to:

Frommers Greece, 5th EditionWiley Publishing, Inc. 111 River St. Hoboken, NJ 07030-5774

An Additional NotePlease be advised that travel information is subject to change at any timeand this is especiallytrue of prices. We therefore suggest that you write or call ahead for confirmation when makingyour travel plans. The authors, editors, and publisher cannot be held responsible for the experi-ences of readers while traveling. Your safety is important to us, however, so we encourage you tostay alert and be aware of your surroundings. Keep a close eye on cameras, purses, and wallets,all favorite targets of thieves and pickpockets.

About the AuthorsJohn S. Bowman has been a freelance writer and editor for more than 35 years. He specializesin nonfiction ranging from archaeology to zoology, baseball to biography. He first visited Greecein 1956 and has traveled and lived there over the years. He is the author of numerous guides tovarious regions in Greece. He currently resides in Northampton, Massachusetts.

Sherry Marker majored in classical Greek at Harvard, studied archaeology at the AmericanSchool of Classical Studies in Athens, and did graduate work in ancient history at the Univer-sity of California at Berkeley. The author of a number of guides to Greece, she has also writtenfor the New York Times, Travel & Leisure, and Hampshire Life. When not in Greece, she lives inMassachusetts.

Rebecca Tobin has been writing about the travel business for the past 5 years, and about cruis-ing for the past 3, as an editor and reporter for industry newspaper Travel Weekly. She has sam-pled food, fun, and deck chairs on more than 35 cruise ships. When shes not on the high seas,Rebecca is a landlubber in New York.

Other Great Guides for Your Trip:

Frommers Greek Islands

Frommers Europe

Frommers Europe from $85 a Day

Frommers European Cruises & Ports of Call

Frommers Gay & Lesbian Europe

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Frommers Star Ratings, Icons & AbbreviationsEvery hotel, restaurant, and attraction listing in this guide has been ranked for quality, value,service, amenities, and special features using a star-rating system. In country, state, and regionalguides, we also rate towns and regions to help you narrow down your choices and budget yourtime accordingly. Hotels and restaurants are rated on a scale of zero (recommended) to threestars (exceptional). Attractions, shopping, nightlife, towns, and regions are rated according tothe following scale: zero stars (recommended), one star (highly recommended), two stars (veryhighly recommended), and three stars (must-see).

In addition to the star-rating system, we also use seven feature icons that point you to thegreat deals, in-the-know advice, and unique experiences that separate travelers from tourists.Throughout the book, look for:

Special findsthose places only insiders know about

Fun factsdetails that make travelers more informed and their trips more fun

Best bets for kids and advice for the whole family

Special momentsthose experiences that memories are made of

Places or experiences not worth your time or money

Insider tipsgreat ways to save time and money

Great valueswhere to get the best deals

The following abbreviations are used for credit cards:AE American Express DISC Discover V VisaDC Diners Club MC MasterCard

Frommers.comNow that you have the guidebook to a great trip, visit our website at www.frommers.com fortravel information on more than 3,000 destinations. With features updated regularly, we giveyou instant access to the most current trip-planning information available. At Frommers.com,youll also find the best prices on airfares, accommodations, and car rentalsand you can evenbook travel online through our travel booking partners. At Frommers.com, youll also find thefollowing:

Online updates to our most popular guidebooks Vacation sweepstakes and contest giveaways Newsletter highlighting the hottest travel trends Online travel message boards with featured travel discussions

Value

Tips

Overrated

Moments

Kids

Fun Fact

Finds

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www.frommers.com

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Whats New in Greece

PLANNING YOUR TRIP Since thelast edition of this guide, the Olympicshave come and gone in Greece. TheGames created a sparkling new image ofthis countrya Greece that could deliveron both aesthetics and logistics (albeit itwithout a day to spare!). The opening andclosing ceremonies truly dazzled theworld and undoubtedly will lead to evermore tourists. And in the bargain, Greecegot an improved transportation infra-structure: a new airport, an extendedMetro system, a surface trolley from cen-tral Athens to the coast, a circumferentialhighway to help drivers avoid centralAthens, and a dramatic new bridge acrossthe Gulf of Corinth.

The only downside was the publicityabout preparedness and security con-cerns. (Nothing happened, and every-thing worked.) That summer of 2004,hotels in Athens experienced drasticlosses in clientele and profits. This threwthe pricing structure of hotels into tur-moilthe normal increases that accom-pany inflation cannot be counted on forseveral years, as the hotels try to regaintheir equilibrium. So, more than ever,you must be flexible about prices pro-vided in this guidebook. We can only saythat for every hotel room that might bemore expensive than what we report,there will be another hotel room that willbe cheaper.

Booking Online By now, most travel-ers are aware of the many online websiteson which you can plan your trip and

make reservations. Many websites offerdiscounts as well as reservations. Warn-ing: Read the small print about cancella-tion policiesthey can be prettyunforgiving! In our experience, it is oftenbetter to search the discount websites forprices but then to deal directly with thehotels. This holds true for airlines, also.They often meet or even beat pricesoffered by the so-called discount outfits.In addition, a ticket purchased directlyfrom the airline will get you better serviceif you encounter problems along the way.

Getting There Those who follow thetravel industry in the news may be awarethat Olympic Airlines has been operatingin bankruptcy for several years and hasbeen put up for sale. As we go to press,the winning bidder has not beenannounced, but it appears that an exist-ing European airline will take overOlympic while maintaining the sameservices. Meanwhile, Olympic Airlinescontinues service from North America onboth its direct flights and almost all of itsinternal flights.

One of the bidders for the Olympicfranchise, however, is Greeces AegeanAirlines. In the last few years, Aegean hasbecome a major competitor of OlympicAirlines, especially for domestic service inGreece. It was awarded the EuropeanRegions Airline Association Gold AwardAirline of the Year for 200405. Theaward recognizes Aegean Airlinesachievements not only in its operationsfinances, electronic ticketing, and so

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onbut also its good customer serviceand on-time performance. ERAA hasabout 230 member airlines, so this awardrepresents a significant achievement.

Travel Agencies There is no shortage oftravel agencies prepared to arrange yourtrip to and within Greece. But a brand-new one is aiming at the high-end market.A young Greek man, Christos Stergiou,whose family runs a hotel and restauranton the island of Patmos, started True-Greece (www.truegreece.com). Christosearned his undergraduate and graduatedegrees (MBA from Stanford) in the U.S.and so brings a special combination ofexperience and awareness to the travelbusiness. TrueGreece offers several packagetours that include Athens and two islands,but the agency will also arrange individu-alized itineraries such as honeymoons.

In addition to the finer hotels andrestaurants to which TrueGreece directsits clients, native-born but English-speak-ing escorts provide more intimate viewsof the locales visited. Also, group size islimited to 16.

Another agency, the well-establishedWindmills Travel, with offices inAthens, Tinos, and Mykonos, hasupdated and expanded its website (www.windmills.gr), which now covers mostquestions travelers might have aboutGreece. The website includes a photoalbum for almost all of Greece. For infor-mation on short- and long-term islandrentals, contact Windmillss Tinos managerSharon Turner (sharon@thn.forthnet.gr).

Ecotourism is increasingly being recog-nized as the new direction for tourism,and Greecewith its many still relativelyunspoiled natural localeshas beensteadily hosting more and more environ-ment-friendly activities. One of the leastwell-known is Milia, a once-abandonedvillage in the mountains of western Crete.In the 1980s, two local families beganrestoring buildings and converting the

village into an eco-hideaway. Today thevillage grows most of its own vegetables,raises animals, and generates its own solarelectricity. Nature lovers considering avisit can check the website www.milia.gr.

SETTLING INTO ATHENSWhere to Stay Grande Bretagne, Syn-tagma Square (& 210/333-0000; www.grandebretagne.gr), and Hilton, 46 Leo-foros Vas. Sofias (& 800/445-8667 or210/728-1000; www.hilton.com), wereextensively redecorated and renovated forthe Athens 2004 Olympics. Grande Bre-tagne now boasts two pools, and theHilton redid its outdoor pool. Bothhotels have their own spas and exercisefacilities. High-speed Internet connectionis available in all guest rooms. A new bou-tique hotel, Eridanus (Iridanos) (& 210/520-5360), has opened next to the newlocation of Varoulko restaurant (seebelow) in the once down-at-heels Gazidistrict, former site of the gasworks. Thedistrict is now bursting with boutiques,galleries, restaurants, and chic littlehotels. Fresh Hotel (& 210/524-8511),a less expensive newcomer a few blocksaway from the Eridanus at 86 Sofokleus,is home to the popular Athenian bar,Orange.

Where to Dine Another sign of theGazi districts reclaiming is the reloca-tion here of Varoulko (Greeces bestseafood restaurant) from the port city ofPiraeus to the district at 80 Piraios (& 210/522-8400). The correspondingnew menu offers sweetbreads, goat stew,and a spicy tripe soup, as well as itsfamous seafood dishes. If you haventbeen to Athens for a few years, youll bepleased to discover that Aegli (& 210/336-9363), the longtime favorite just offSyntagma Square in the National Gar-den, is back beside the Zappeion Build-ing, serving gourmet meals and snacks.See chapter 5.

W H AT S N E W2

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EXPLORING ATHENS ExploringAthens is easier than ever thanks to thenew Metro systemand pleasanter thanever thanks to the pedestrianized walkslinking the major archaeological sites.You can get a map of the system at themain Metro station in Syntagma Square.The Greek National Tourism Organiza-tion (EOT) at 2 Amerikis sometimes hasmaps of the Archaeological Park, whichstretches from Hadrians Gate past theAcropolis and Ancient Agora to Ker-ameikos. As you explore Athens on footand by Metro, be sure to take in the twonew museums at the Acropolis and Syn-tagma Metro stations, which displayantiquities excavated from the Metrosites.

And save time to take in Athenssastonishing variety of small museums: Ifyou have time for only one, go to BenakiMuseum of Islamic Art, Agio Asomatonand Dipylou, Psirri (& 210/367-1000;www.benaki.gr.), Greeces first museumof Islamic art. Just a block away, TheMuseum of Traditional Pottery, 46Melidoni, Kerameikos (& 210/331-8491), has a permanent collection as wellas special exhibits of traditional and con-temporary Greek pottery.

In nearby Plaka, Frissiras Museum,37 Moni Asteriou (& 210/323-4678),is Athenss first museum to concentrateon 20th-century European art. The new Pierides Museum of Ancient Cyp-riot Art, 3435 Kastorias, Votanikos (& 210/348-0000; www.athinais.com.gr), records the art and politics of Cyprus.See chapter 6.

THE SARONIC GULF ISLANDS Atpress time, both Minoan Flying Dolphinsand Ceres Flying Dolphins had beenabsorbed by Hellas Flying Dolphins,which serves the Saronic Gulf Islands.There almost certainly will be changes innomenclature and service by the time youarrive, so double-check all island boat

information before you travel. Keep inmind that the recent expansion of high-speed Flying Dolphin service to theseislands has made it important to haveboth transportation and hotel reservationsin summer. Check these websites for cur-rent info: www.saronicnet.com and www.magicaljourneys.com. See chapter 7.

THE PELOPONNESE The new Rio-Antirio bridge opened in 2004. Thebridge replaces the ferry service across theGulf of Corinth and cuts off as much asan hour from trip times between CentralGreece and the Peloponnese. You canlearn more about the bridge at www.gefyra.gr.

Where to Stay The 14-unit Primaro-lia Art Hotel, 33 Othonos and Amalias(& 2610/624-900) in Patras, the largestport in the Peloponnese, has made it ontoOdyssey magazines list of the best hotelsin Greece for its elegant rooms and the art displayed throughout the hotel. Seechapter 8.

Theres another very welcome newhotel in the Peloponnese: For years,Andritsena, the delightful village near theTemple of Bassae, has been served by onlyone desultory hotel. Now the five-unit Epikourias Apollon, the Plateia (& 26260/22-840), under efficient andcaring family management, makes it apleasure to spend the night in this perfectmountain village. See chapter 8.

Where to Dine Nemeios Dias, a verywelcome cafe/restaurant signposted SNAKBAR/SOUVENIR by the site of AncientNemea, is usually open from 10am tomid-afternoon and sells local wines andsouvenirs. See chapter 8.

What to See & Do There are four newmuseums to see in Olympia. The long-awaited museum at the site of Mycenaeopened in 2004 and features exhibitstelling the long history of Agamemnonshome town. In 2004, the Archaeological

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Museum reopened after extensive reno-vations and reinstallation of its superbcollection. At the same time, the dazzlingnew Museum of the History of theOlympic Games in Antiquity opened,along with the charming little Museumof the History of the Excavations inOlympia. If you wonder why one of theColumns of Zeus stands upright whilethe others lie scattered on the ground,heres the reason: The column wasreassembled and reerected in honor of the2004 Olympic Games. See chapter 8.

CRETE The company that operatesthe high-speed catamarans, Hellas Fly-ing Dolphins, has now instituted servicebetween Piraeus and Chania, Crete(www.hellenicseaways.gr). Rides are notcheap, but the company offers a widerange of options. The cheapest ride, at41 ($53) one-way, 70 ($91) round-trip, cuts the trip down to 5 hours (com-pared to the regular ferry service of 12hr.). The company promises daily serviceeach way, but youll arrive back in Piraeusat 1:15am.

Horseback riding is a relatively newactivity on Crete. Most of the riding cen-ters offer group rides or lessonsthey donot seem geared toward individual rentals(but you can ask). Generally, these outfitsoffer everything from half-day rides toweeklong packages (hotel, meals, andthe like). Look for Zoraidas at Geor-giopolis, near Chania, on the Internet atwww.zoraida.georgioupoli.net. OdysseiaStables is located at Avdou, in the mountains southeast of Iraklion (www.odysseia.nl).

A more ambitious outfit is the Thera-peutic Holidays Camp (www.threapeutic-holidays.org) run by a British organiza-tion. Located at Karteros beach (5km/3miles east of Iraklion), it offers horsebackriding as therapy for individuals withmental or physical disabilities. This will

cost you, but the organization is profes-sional. In addition to riding, it offerswork-based therapies such as bread-bak-ing and gardening.

Also new on Crete as of 2005 is Tha-lassoKosmosSea Worldan elabo-rate aquarium with outdoor seawatertanks located at the old U.S. Air Forcestation at Gouves, about 16km (10 miles)along the coast east of Iraklion. It boasts4,000 marine organisms and manyopportunities to view them. Whether thiswill bring more visitors to Crete remainsto be seen, but the worthy venture has thesupport of the Hellenic Center of MarineResearch and the Institutes of MarineBiology and Fish Farming.

Where to Stay Greek hotels are con-stantly renovating and updating, but oneof the more impressive makeovers withinrecent years is that of Lato BoutiqueHotel in Iraklion (www.lato.gr). In recog-nition of this transformation, the Latohas now been accepted into the interna-tional chain known as Boutique Hotels.Hotels in this association are not luxuryhotels in the sense of opulent decor orextravagant amenities, but they mustmaintain high standards in their serviceas well as provide pleasing environments.See chapter 9.

THE DODECANESE The proprietorof the S. Nikolis Hotel in Rhodes, whichwe have long recommended, has openeda new hotel close to it, HippodamouHamam. It is located in an old Turkishmansion that has been completelyrestored in a style that melds Greek andTurkish traditions. The word hamamrefers to a Turkish steam bath; the hotelprovides its guests with an authentic one.Also in the hotel is a small Internet cafewith wi-fi. The 10 guest rooms, decoratedin individual styles, some with antiques,range from 80 to 150 ($104$195)including continental breakfast. For more

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information, go to www.s-nikolis.gr, fromwhich you can contact the proprietor. Seechapter 11.

CENTRAL GREECEWhat to See & Do Theres more thanever to see at the Delphi Museum, thetowns archaeological museum in Del-phi, which reopened in 2004 after exten-sive renovation and reinstallation of itscollection. Kalambaka, the stepping-stone to the Monasteries of the Meteora,has a new museum: Center of Contem-porary Art, 38 Patriarchou Dimitriou(& 24320/22-346), which houses the

extensive private collection of LeonidasBelsios. The collections contrast withthe artwork of the monasteries couldhardly be greater, and travelers mayenjoy the museum for just that reason.See chapter 12.

NORTHERN GREECE When youget to Pella, birthplace of Philip of Mace-don and Alexander the Great, checkwhether the gold armor and jewelryfound in 2005 in 25 6th-century-B.C.tombs have been put on view in the sitesmuseum. See chapter 16.

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The Best of Greece

Greece is, of course, the land of ancient sites and architectural treasuresthe Acrop-olis in Athens, the amphitheater of Epidaurus, and the reconstructed palace at Knos-sos among the best known. But Greece is much more: It offers age-old spectacularnatural sights, for instancefrom Santorinis caldera to the gray pinnacles of rock ofthe Meteoraand modern diversions ranging from elegant museums to luxuryresorts. It can be bewildering to plan your trip with so many options vying for yourattention. Take us along and well do the work for you. Weve traveled the countryextensively and chosen the very best that Greece has to offer. Weve explored thearchaeological sites, visited the museums, inspected the hotels, reviewed the tavernasand ouzeries, and scoped out the beaches. Heres what we consider the best of the best.

1

1 The Best Travel Experiences Making Haste Slowly: Give yourself

time to sit in a seaside taverna andwatch the fishing boats come and go.If you visit Greece in the spring, takethe time to smell the flowers; thefields are covered with poppies,daisies, and other blooms. Even inAthens, youll see hardy species growing through the cracks in con-crete sidewalksor better yet, visitAthenss Ancient Agora, which willbe carpeted with a dazzling variety ofwildflowers. See chapter 6, Explor-ing Athens.

Island-Hopping in the Cyclades:Though the Cyclades are bound byunmistakable family resemblance,each island has a unique personality.Distances between islands are small,making travel by ferry pleasant andlogistically straightforward (at least inprinciple). If you are traveling in theoff season, when you do not needhotel reservations, dont plan toomuch in advance and allow yourselfto go with the flowa tactful way of

preparing you for the unexpected inisland boat schedules! See chapter 10,The Cyclades.

Leaving the Beaten Path: Persistagainst your bodys and minds signalsthat this may be pushing too far,leave the main routes and majorattractions behind, and make yourown discoveries of landscape, villages,or activities. For instance, seek out achurch or monastery such as MoniAyios Nikolaos outside Metsovoyou may be rewarded by a movingencounter with the church and itscaretaker. When you visit theCycladic Islands, consider a base onTinos, which is very popular withGreeks but attracts hardly any for-eigners. See Metsovo on p. 528.

Exploring the Naturalists Greece:There is a Greece beyond thecolumns and cafesa land of ruggedterrain and wildflowers and birds andother natural phenomena. Sign upfor a special tour (see chapter 2,Planning Your Trip to Greece), or

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go it alone with one of the severalbeautifully illustrated handbooksavailable, such as Oleg PoluninsFlowers of Greece and the Balkans(Oxford Univ. Press); or Birds ofEurope (McGraw-Hill), by BertelBruun and Arthur Singer. And dontforget your binoculars!

Sunrise, Sunset: Get up a little ear-lier than usual to see the sun rise(preferably from the Aegean, illumi-nating the islands). Then watch itsink over the mountains (anywhere inGreece, but try not to miss the sun-sets that change the Ionian Sea fromthe deepest blue to a fiery red).

T H E B E S T O F A N C I E N T G R E E C E 7

2 The Best of Ancient Greece The Acropolis (Athens): No matter

how many photographs youve seen,nothing can prepare you for watchingthe light change the marble of thebuildings, still standing after thou-sands of years, from honey to rose todeep red to stark white. If the crowdsget you down, remember howcrowded the Acropolis was during reli-gious festivals in antiquity. See p. 181.

Nemea (Peloponnese): This gem of asite has it all: a beautifully restoredstadium, a handsome museum, evenpicnic tables with a view of theromantic Doric temple. Look for thethree long-standing columnsandseveral newly restored and reerectedones. If youre lucky, you may seeNemeas archaeologists at work lov-ingly reconstructing and reerectingmore columns from the templesnorth facade in their ambitiousrestoration project. See p. 268.

Olympia (Peloponnese) & Delphi(Central Greece): Try to visit bothOlympia, where the Olympic Gamesbegan, and Delphi, home of the Del-phic Oracle. Thats the only wayyoull be able to decide whetherOlympia, with its massive templesand shady groves of trees, or Delphi,perched on mountain slopes over-looking olive trees and the sea, is themost beautiful ancient site in Greece.See chapters 8 and 12.

Palace of Knossos (Crete): A seem-ingly unending maze of rooms and

levels and stairways and corridors andfrescoed wallsthis is the MinoanPalace of Knossos. It can be packed atpeak hours, but it still exerts its powerif you enter in the spirit of thelabyrinth. King Minos ruled over therichest and most powerful of Minoancities and, according to legend, hisdaughter Ariadne helped Theseus killthe Minotaur in the labyrinth andescape. See p. 307.

Delos (Cyclades): This tiny isle, just3.2km (2 miles) offshore of Myko-nos, was considered by the ancientGreeks to be both the geographicaland spiritual center of the Cyclades;many considered this the holiestsanctuary in all of Greece. The exten-sive remains here testify to the islandsformer splendor. From Mount Kin-thos (really just a hill, but the islandshighest point), you can see many ofthe Cyclades most days; on a veryclear day, you can see the entire archi-pelago. The 3 hours allotted by excursion boats from Mykonos orTinos are hardly sufficient to explorethis vast archaeological treasure. Seechapter 10.

Vergina (Northern Greece): In thebrilliantly designed museum here,you can peek into what may havebeen the tomb of Alexander theGreats father, Philip of Macedon.Nearby, more than 300 burialmounds stretch for miles across theMacedonian plain. See p. 593.

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C H A P T E R 1 . T H E B E S T O F G R E E C E8

Sea o f Cre t e CRETE

IerapetraAyia Galini

Rethymnon Ayios NikolaosIraklion

Chania

Piraeus

Skiathos

Skopelos

Corfu

Paxos

Lefkada

IthakaKefalonia

ZakinthosAthensCorinth

NafplionEpidaurus

Mycenae

Argos

Megalopolis

Andritsena

SpartaMistra

Monemvassia

Kythira

Githio

Areopolis

KalamataPilos

Olympia

Kyllini

Patras

Delphi

Volos

Thessaloniki

Megara

Thebes

LivadiaMessolongi

Agrinio

Astakos

Vonitsa

Praveza

Arta

KarpenissiLamia

Larissa

Karditsa

Trikkala

Ioannina

KalpakiElassona

Kastoria

EdessaGiannitsa

KilkisSerres

Loutra Edipsou

IONIAN ISLANDS

SARONIC GULF

ISLANDS

MACEDONIA

EPIRUS THESSALY

CENTRALGREECE

PELOPONNESE

FORMER YUGOSLAV REPUBLICOF MACEDONIA

ALBANIA

Mt. Parnassus

Tripoli

Metsovo Meteora(Kalambaka)

ZAGORI

Igoumenitsou

Pirgos

Pella

Vergina

Dion

KozaniStratoni

PelionPeninsula

AdriaticSea

IonianSea

Mediterranean Sea

Mt. Olympus

Lake Pamvotis

Lake Pamvotis

Tirana

MediterraneanSea

AegeanSea

AegeanSeaAthensAthens

CRETECRETE

0 25 mi

0 25 km

GREECE

Greece

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To Crete(approx. 60 milesfrom mainland)

Donoussa

Kea

Anafi

Amorgos

Simi

Patmos

Kalimnos

Karpathos

Mykonos

Delos

Siros

ParosNaxos

Ios

Santorini

Tinos

Andros

Serifos

Sifnos

Milos

Alonissos

Skyros

Antiparos

Samos

Hios

Lesvos(Mitilini)

Limnos

Samothraki

Thasos

Rhodes

Xanthi

Alexandroupolis

Kimi

Karystos

Izmir

NORTHEASTERNAEGEAN ISLANDS

CYCLADES

DODECANESE

THRACETURKEY

TURKEY

BULGARIA

Mt. Athos

Folegandros

EVVIA

Kos

Sounion

Drama

KomotiniKavala

SPORADES

Aegean SeaLake

Pamvotis

Sea of Marmara

Ikaria

Mountain

AegeanSeaAthens

CRETE

GREECEGREECE

T H E B E S T O F A N C I E N T G R E E C E 9

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C H A P T E R 1 . T H E B E S T O F G R E E C E10

3 The Best of Byzantine & Medieval Greece Mistra (Peloponnese): This Byzan-

tine ghost town has streets lined withthe remains of homes both humbleand palatial, as well as some of themost beautiful churches in all ofGreece. If you have the energy, climbto the top of the defense walls for thesuperb view over the plain of Sparta.Try to visit in spring, when Mistra iscarpeted with wildflowers. See p. 277.

Church of Panagia Kera (Kritsa,Crete): If Byzantine art seems a bitstilted and remote, this strikingchapel in the foothills of easternCrete will reward you with its unex-pected intimacy. The 14th- and 15th-century frescoes are not onlystunning but depict all the familiarbiblical stories. See p. 338.

The Churches of Thessaloniki(Northern Greece): ThessalonikisByzantine churches are the finest notjust in Greece but in the entire world.From tiny Osios David to toweringAyios Dimitrios, these churches boastmosaics and frescoes that give youastonishing glimpses of the artisticgrandeur of the mighty Byzantineempire. See p. 570.

Nea Moni (Hios, NortheasternAegean): Once home to 1,000monks, this 12th-century monasteryhigh in the interior mountains ofHios is now quietly inhabited by oneelderly but sprightly nun and twofriendly monks. Try to catch one ofthe excellent tours sometimes offered

by the monks. The mosaics in thecathedral dome are works of extraor-dinary power and beauty; even in thehalf-obscurity of the nave, they radi-ate a brilliant gold. Check out thesmall museum, and take some timeto explore the extensive monasterygrounds. See p. 615.

Monemvassia (Peloponnese): Longcalled The Gibraltar of Greece, thisrocky promontory crowned by amedieval citadel and church has onlyone real street (just wide enough fortwo donkeys to pass each other), nocars, cobbled lanes, beautifullyrestored stone houses (some of whichare now hotels), and views that stretchforever over the sea. See p. 280.

A Clutch of Castles: Acrocorinth,Argos, Mistra & Nafplion (Pelo-ponnese): Some of these castles haveancient foundations; all were addedonto by the Franks, Venetians,Byzantines, and Turks. Several wereused as fortresses as recently as WorldWar II. See chapter 8.

A Profusion of Byzantine Churchesin the Cyclades: The fertile country-side of the island of Naxos is dottedby well-preserved Byzantine chapels.Parikia, the capital of Paros, has theByzantine-era cathedral of PanagiaEkatondapiliani. Santorini boasts the11th- to 12th-century church of thePanagia in the hamlet of GoniasEpiskopi. See chapter 10.

4 The Best Beaches Arvanitia (Nafplion, Peloponnese):

After a vigorous and tiring day ofsightseeing, this small municipalbeach can seem like the best inGreece. Handy changing rooms andshowers make this a great place for a

quick break between exploring theruins at Mycenae and taking in a playat Epidaurus. See p. 256.

Plaka (Naxos, Cyclades): Naxos hasthe longest stretches of sea sand inthe Cyclades, and Plaka is the most

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beautiful and pristine beach on theisland. On its 4.8km (3-mile) stretchof mostly undeveloped shoreline,you can easily imagine yourself asRobinson Crusoe alone on his island(bending the plot to include a fewsunbathing Fridays). If you needabundant amenities and a moreactive social scene, you can alwayshead north to Ayia Anna or AyiosProkopios. See p. 389.

Paradise (Mykonos, Cyclades): Par-adise is the quintessential partybeach, known for wild revelry thatcontinues through the night. Anextensive complex built on the beachincludes a bar, taverna, changingrooms, and souvenir shops. This is aplace to see and be seen, a place toshow off muscles laboriously acquiredduring the long winter months. Seep. 397.

Lalaria Beach (Skiathos, Sporades):This gleaming, white-pebble beachboasts vivid aquamarine water andwhite limestone cliffs with naturalarches cut into them by the elements.Lalaria is not nearly as popular nor as

accessible as Skiathoss famous Kou-kounaries, which is one of the reasonsits still gorgeous and pristine. See p. 497.

Megalo Seitani (Samos, Northeast-ern Aegean): Megalo Seitani and itsneighbor, Micro Seitani, are situatedon the mountainous and remotenorthwest coast of Samos. Therearent any roads to this part of theisland, so the only ways to reach thebeaches are by a short boat ride or arather long (and beautiful) hike. Youwont regret taking the trouble, sinceboth beaches are superb: Micro Sei-tanis crescent of pebbles in a rockycove, and Megalo Seitanis expanse ofpristine sand. See p. 607.

Vroulidia (Hios, NortheasternAegean): White sand, a cliff-rimmedcove, and a remote location at thesouthern tip of the island of Hioscombine to make this one of the mostexquisite small beaches in the north-eastern Aegean. The rocky coast con-ceals many cove beaches similar tothis one, and they rarely becomecrowded. See p. 617.

T H E B E S T S C E N I C V I L L A G E S & T O W N S 11

5 The Best Scenic Villages & Towns Monemvassia & Nafplion (Pelo-

ponnese): Everyone says it, and foronce, everyone is right: Nafplion isthe loveliest town in the Peloponnese,and Monemvassia is the regions mostspectacular village. Thanks to thespeedy hydrofoils (Flying Dolphins),you can visit both spots and decidefor yourself which has the best cafes,castles, and sunsets. See chapter 8.

Chania (Crete): Radiating from itshandsome harbor and backdroppedby the White Mountains, Chania hasmanaged to hold on to much of itsVenetian Renaissance and later Turk-ish heritage. Wander the old townsnarrow lanes, filled with a heady mix

of colorful local culture, and enjoy itscharming hotels, excellent restau-rants, interesting shops, and swingingnightspots. See p. 315.

Hora (Folegandros, Cyclades): In thistown huddled at the edge of a cliff,one square spills into the next, itsgreen and blue paving slates outlinedin brilliant white. On a steep hill over-looking the town is the ornate churchof Kimisis Theotokou, often illumi-nated at night. The churchs icon ofthe Virgin is paraded through thestreets of Hora with great ceremonyand revelry every Easter Sunday. Mer-cifully free of vehicular traffic, Hora isone of the most beautiful and least

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spoiled villages in the Cyclades. See p. 362.

Yialos (Simi, Dodecanese): Theentirety of Yialos, the main port ofthe tiny, rugged island of Simi, hasbeen declared a protected architec-tural treasure, and for good reason.This pristine port with its extraordi-nary array of neoclassical mansions isa large part of why Simi is known asthe jewel of the Dodecanese. See p. 446.

Ermoupolis (Siros, Cyclades): In the19th century, this was the busiestport in the Cyclades. Today, it is stilla hub for island travel and retains anastonishing number of handsomeneoclassical governmental buildings,ship sheds and factories, and eleganttown houses. Walk uphill from theharbor to Ano Siros (upper Siros) andyoull find an old kastro (fortress) anda miniature whitewashed Cycladicvillage. See p. 419.

Skopelos Town (Skopelos, Spo-rades): The amazingly well-preservedSkopelos, a traditional whitewashedisland port town, is adorned every-where with pots of flowering plants.It offers some fairly sophisticateddiversions, several excellent restau-rants, a couple good hotels, and lotsof shopping. See p. 502.

Metsovo (Western Greece): Steepslopes, ever-green conifers, stonehouses with slate and slanted roofs,stolid villagers in traditional clothing

speaking a Latin-based languageifthis is Thursday, you must be inSwitzerland. But no, its Metsovo, inEpirus. Occasionally jammed withexcursionists, this mountain townstill comes through as an authenticlocale, refreshing in the summer andinvigorating in the winter ski season.See p. 528.

Corfu Town (Corfu, Ionian Islands):With its Esplanade framed by a 19th-century palace and the arcaded Lis-ton, its old town a Venice-like warrenof structures practically untouchedfor several centuries, its massiveVenetian fortresses, and all thisenclosing a lively population andconstant visitors, here is urbanGreece at its most appealing. See p. 534.

Piryi & Mesta (Hios, NortheasternAegean): These two small towns, inthe pastoral southern hills of Hios,are marvelous creations of themedieval imagination. Connected bytheir physical proximity and a sharedhistory, each is quirkily unique and adelight to explore. In Piryi, everyavailable surface is covered with elab-orate geometric black-and-white dec-orations known as Ksisti, a techniquethat reaches extraordinary levels ofvirtuosity in the town square. Mestahas preserved its medieval urban fab-ric and conceals two fine churcheswithin its maze of narrow streets. Seep. 616.

C H A P T E R 1 . T H E B E S T O F G R E E C E12

6 The Best Islands Hydra (Saronic Gulf Islands): Old-

timers keep waiting for Hydra, withits handsome stone mansions over-looking a picture-postcard harbor, tobe spoiled. After all, even beforeMykonos and Santorini, Hydra wasone of the first Greek islands to bediscovered. So far, so good: Don-keys still outnumber motorcycles,

and the day-trippers who blitzthrough the appealing harborsideshops leave at twilight. That meansyou can almost always find the tableyou want at one of Hydras pleasantsmall restaurants. See p. 235.

Crete: Whether for its rugged moun-tains or its countless beaches, itsancient remains or its ultramodern

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hotels, its layered history or itsintense people, Crete cannot bedenied. It is not just a distinctiveGreek islandit is a world untoitself. See chapter 9.

Santorini (Cyclades): This isundoubtedly one of the most spectac-ular islands in the world. The streetsof Fira and Ia are carved into the faceof a high cliff, overlooking the circu-lar caldera left by an ancient volcaniceruption and now filled with thedeep-blue waters of the Aegean. Thesite of Akrotiri offers a uniqueglimpse into life in a Minoan city,frozen in time by the eruption 3,600years ago. Be sure to find out if thisspectacular site, which was closed tothe public at press time, has reopenedwhen you visit. Add to this the Firanightlife scene, and youll see whythis is one of the most popular (andovercrowded) summer vacation spotsin the Aegean. See p. 342.

Siros (Cyclades): This tiny island hasit all: a vivacious, cosmopolitan capi-tal town; thriving beach resorts; and astarkly beautiful region of farmingcommunities, archaeological remains,and remote beaches to the north.Siros is also one of the centers of rem-betika, a form of Greek traditionalmusic with roots in Asia Minor. TheFragosiriani, a classic known through-out Greece, was composed by theSiriot Markos Vamvakaris, and youresure to hear its simple and infectiousrhythms many times during your stayhere. See p. 417.

Tinos (Cyclades): The island oftencalled the Lourdes of Greece,because of the church, Panagia Evan-gelistria (Our Lady of Good Tidings)with its healing icon, also has Venet-ian dovecotes; farm fields set off withhandsome stone boundary walls; andPirgos, the village of marble. Seechapter 10.

Rhodes (Dodecanese): The island ofRhodes has everything a visitor couldwantdazzling ancient and medievalruins, great food, spectacular beaches,and the hottest nightlife outside ofAthensthe one drawback being thateveryone knows it. See chapter 11.

Skyros (Sporades): Winding roadsand remote beaches, one main townand a few minor villages, someancient legends and 20th-centurytales: Skyross charms remain perhapsthe most elusive of the four NorthernSporades. But though the islandremains a bit difficult to access andnot overstocked with touristy ameni-ties, Skyros also offers both a livinglocal culture and some natural wild-ness. See chapter 13.

Corfu (Ionian Islands): With lushvegetation, some still undevelopedinterior and unspoiled coast, ancientsites and a 19th-century presence, adash of Italy and a dose of the cos-mopolitan, Corfu is a Greek islandlike no other. Tourism may be ram-pant, but Corfus attractions have sur-vived worse. See chapter 15.

Hios (Northeastern Aegean): Youdthink that an island with such gor-geous beaches, exquisite medievaltowns, and remarkable scenerywouldnt remain a secret for long.Despite the qualities that attract asmall group of devotees year afteryear, Hios remains surprisingly quiet.If you like the idea of getting awayfrom the tour buses, being alone on abeach to rival any in the Cyclades,and exploring towns that preserve thecontours of medieval life, Hios is foryou. Another benefit: The local hos-pitality hasnt worn thin here, as it hason many of the more heavily touredislands. See chapter 17.

Sifnos (Cyclades): Sifnos is a greenisland of ravines, mountaintops, andpristine beaches. Despite its small size

T H E B E S T I S L A N D S 13

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(a hardy walker can explore the entireisland on foot), Sifnos has numerousattractive small towns which can beused as bases for your explorations.Apollonia, in the central hills, offerselegant small-town civility, with theadded benefit of being the hub of an

excellent public transportation sys-tem. The kastro (castle), on its seasiderock, is the medieval locus of theisland, while Platis Yialos is a quietbeach resort. Dont visit in August,when the island is mobbed with vaca-tioning Athenians. See chapter 10.

C H A P T E R 1 . T H E B E S T O F G R E E C E14

7 The Best Places to Get Away from It All National Garden (Athens): Its all

too easy to overlook this oasis of calmand cool in the heart of Athens. Youlldiscover shady benches, a small cafe,a superb restaurant, and lots ofopportunities to enjoy watchingGreek families out for a stroll. Keepan eye out for the balloon sellers onweekends. See p. 200.

Mount Likavitos (Lycabettus)(Athens): Walk up Likavitos at dawnand enjoy the sunrise over the hillsthat surround Athens. Come back forsunset, and you may encounter oth-ers strolling here, but the sounds (andsmells!) of Athenss ferocious trafficwill be pleasantly distant. See p. 200.

Folegandros (Cyclades): Most visi-tors to Greece once sailed past theformidable Folegandros cliffs enroute from the mainland to Santoriniand other islands; theyd catch aglimpse of the whitewashed kastrowalls perched 300m (984 ft.) abovethe sea. The beauty of Hora, the finebeaches, and the great walking trailsare no longer secrets, but if youarrive during the off season, Folegan-dros still offers a restful retreat.Largely free of the commercialismthat has engulfed so many Aegean

isles, Folegandros is now appearingon insider lists as the new place tovisit. See p. 360.

Zagori & Vikos Gorge (WesternGreece): If the 40-some tiny villageslinked by roads lined with spectacularterrain are not enough, you can ven-ture into at least a section of one ofthe most spectacular gorges inEurope. Greeks and some Europeanshave long appreciated this undevel-oped corner of northwestern Greeceknown as the Zagoria. See p. 530.

The Road Not Taken (Greece):Dont fret if you take a wrong turn inGreece, whether it is on a street inAthens or a road somewhere in thecountry. Go with it! This may be thehighlight of your tripthe Athenianshop-owner who shows you picturesof his aunts family in Chicago whenyou stop to ask for directions; theyiayia (granny) next to you on thatboat that you caught after the boatyou wanted to catch had left; theschool child who quizzes you aboutwhy you came to Greece when youbump into him at an ancient site; thelittle village you chance upon becauseyou stumbled onto the road you didnot mean to take.

8 The Best Museums National Archaeological Museum

(Athens): This stunning collection,which reopened after a major renova-tion in 2004, has it all: superb red-and black-figured vases, bronze stat-

ues, Mycenaean gold, marble reliefsof gods and goddesses, and thehauntingly beautiful frescoes fromAkrotiri, the Minoan site on theisland of Santorini. Unfortunately, at

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press time only the ground floor wasopen, but authorities promise thatthe entire museum will be opensoon. See p. 192.

Museum of Greek Popular MusicalInstruments (Athens): Life-size pho-tos of musicians beside their actualinstruments and recordings of tradi-tional Greek music make this one ofthe countrys most charming muse-ums. On our last visit, an elderlyGreek gentleman listened to somemusic, transcribed it, stepped intothe courtyard, and played it on hisown violin! See p. 192.

Archaeological Museum of Iraklion(Crete): Few museums in the worldcan boast of holding virtually all theimportant remains of a major culture.This museum can do just that withits Minoan collection, includingsuperb frescoes from Knossos, elegantbronze and stone figurines, and

exquisite gold jewelry. The museumalso contains Neolithic, ArchaicGreek, and Roman finds fromthroughout Crete. See p. 307.

Archaeological Museum of Chania(Crete): Lets hear it for a truly engag-ing provincial museum, not one fullof masterworks but rather of repre-sentative works from thousands ofyears, a collection that lets us see howmany people experienced their differ-ent worlds. All this, in a former Ital-ian Renaissance church that feels likea special place. See p. 318.

Archaeological Museum of Thessa-loniki & Museum of ByzantineCulture (Northern Greece): Theseside-by-side museums have fascinat-ing exhibits on the art and architec-ture of Thessaloniki and NorthernGreece from the earliest days throughthe Byzantine era. See p. 566 and p. 568.

T H E B E S T O F G R E E C E S R E L I G I O U S T R E A S U R E S 15

9 The Best of Greeces Religious Treasures Panagia Evangelistria (Tinos,

Cyclades): The most revered religiousshrine in Greece. See p. 411.

Patmos (Dodecanese): For 2 millen-nia, this small island of more than300 churches has been hallowedground, a place of pilgrimage. TheMonastery of St. John the Divine andthe Cave of the Apocalypse, where St.John is said to have dictated the Bookof Revelation, are among the mostrevered and wondrous Byzantinetreasures in the world. See p. 461.

The Monasteries of the Meteora(Central Greece): Even from a dis-tance, the monasteries perched atopthe weird rock formations and mini-mountains of the Meteora are one ofthe most awesome sights in Greece.Inside, the monasteries are equallyimpressive, with fine collections ofmanuscripts, frescoed chapels, shymonks, and chatty nuns. See p. 487.

Aslan Pasha Mosque & Cami atIoannina (Western Greece): Little ofGreeces Turkish-Muslim phase hassurvived beyond the odd minaret, buthere on the promontory of the walledquarter of Ioannina are the still-solid,fine old mosque (now a museum),minaret, and school. Picturesquefrom afar, they speak up close ofIoanninasand Greecesdiversepast. See p. 522.

Mount Athos (Northern Greece):Only men can visit the Holy Moun-tain, where monks still live in isola-tion in some of the most isolatedand beautifulmonasteries in allGreece. If you cant go to Athos itself,take heart: The boats from Ouranop-olis that cruise around the peninsulaoffer excellent views of the rugged,pine-clad promontory and some ofthe monasteries. See p. 598.

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10 The Best Resorts & Hotels Andromeda Hotel (Athens; & 210/

643-7302): The citys first seriousboutique hotel, located on a won-derfully quiet side street, the classyAndromeda offers charm, comfort,and a reassuringly helpful staff. Seep. 166.

Grande Bretagne (Athens; & 210/333-0000): Back for a return engage-ment and better than ever, Athensspremiere hotel still overlooks the bestview in town if you have the rightroom: Syntagma Square, the Housesof Parliament and, in case you won-dered, the Acropolis. See p. 164.

Malvasia (Monemvassia, Pelopon-nese; & 27320/61-323): The Malva-sia brought the concept of theboutique hotel to the Peloponnese.Each room in the Malvasia is differ-ent, with some of the nicest overlook-ing the sea; all are tastefully furnishedwith hand-loomed rugs and antiques.A visit here gives you the illusion ofstaying in the home of wealthy Greekfriends who have enormously goodtasteand who just happen to beaway and have left the staff behind totend to your needs. See p. 282.

Atlantis Hotel (Iraklion, Crete; & 2810/229-103): There are manymore luxurious hotels in Greece, butfew can beat the Atlantiss urbanattractions: a central location, mod-ern facilities, and views over a busyharbor. You can swim in the pool,work out in the fitness center, sende-mail via your laptop, and thenwithin minutes enjoy a fine meal orvisit a museum. See p. 310.

Doma (Chania, Crete; & 28210/51-772): A former neoclassical man-sion east of downtown, the Doma hasbeen converted into a comfortableand charming hotel, furnished withthe proprietors family heirlooms.

Although its not for those seekingthe most luxurious amenities, itsatmosphere appeals to many. See p. 320.

Astra Apartments (Santorini, Cycla-des; & 22860/23-641): This smallhotel with handsomely appointedapartments looks like a miniaturewhitewashed villageand has spec-tacular views over Santorinis famouscaldera. The sunsets here are not tobe believed, the staff is incrediblyhelpful, and the village of Imerovigliitself offers an escape from the touris-tic madness that overwhelms theisland each summer. This is a spot toget married inor celebrate any spe-cial occasion here. See p. 354.

Anemomilos Apartments (Folegan-dros, Cyclades; & 22860/41-309)and Castro Hotel (Folegandros,Cyclades; & 22860/41-230): Thesmall island of Folegandros has twoof the nicest hotels in the Cyclades,both with terrific cliff-top locations.The Anemomilos has all the creaturecomforts, traditional decor, and agood location (its just out of town),with a delicious pool and sea viewsthat stretch forever. The Castro, builtinto the walls of the 12th-centuryVenetian castle that encircles the vil-lage, has lots of character and the nec-essary modern comforts. See p. 363.

Rodos Palace (Rhodes, Dodecanese;& 22410/25-222): The largest five-star hotel in Greece and possibly in theentire Mediterranean, this palacewas decorated by the famed designerof the movies Ben-Hur and Quo Vadis.Located in Iksia, just outside Rhodescity, it offers all the amenities imagina-ble, including a family centeraresort within a resort designed to pro-vide the ultimate holiday for travelerswith children. See p. 436.

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Hotel Nireus (Simi, Dodecanese; & 22410/72-400): Perfect island,perfect location, unpretentious, andtasteful. The views from the sea-fac-ing rooms, framed by the fluid swirlsof the wrought-iron balcony, definethe spell of this little gem of anisland. Youll never regret one morenight on Simi, and heres the place tospend it. See p. 450.

White Rocks Hotel & Bungalows(Kefalonia, Ionian Islands; & 26710/28-332): For those who appreciateunderstated elegance, a shady retreatfrom all that sunshine, a privatebeach, and quiet but attentive service,

this hotel, located a couple of milesoutside Argostoli, can be paradise.See p. 551.

Mediterranean Palace Hotel (Thes-saloniki; & 2310/552-554). Thishotel has it all: location (overlookingthe harbor, in the trendy Ladadikadistrict) and luxury. The lobby is, asyou might expect, seriously glitzybut the really pleasant surprise is thecomfort and elegance of the guestrooms. The service is usually excel-lent. The two restaurants are goodenough to tempt you to dine here atleast one night rather than explorethe hot spots of Ladadika. See p. 580.

T H E B E S T R E S TA U R A N T S 17

11 The Best Restaurants Daphnes (Athens; & 210/322-

7971): As well as Pompeiian-stylewall frescoes and one of the nicest gar-dens in Athens, Daphnes offers con-sistently delicious food. It makes youwonder why other Greek restaurantscant make supposedly simple disheslike eggplant salad or yogurt withquince taste this distinctive. Added toall this are strolling musiciansandthe owners and staff are so delightfulthat you hate to leave, even when youcant eat another prawn with toastedalmonds. See p. 172.

Vlassis (Athens; & 210/646-3060):This small restaurant with a veryloyal following (ranging from promi-nent ambassadors to strugglingartists) serves traditional (paradisi-ako) Greek cooking at its very best. Atempting choice if you have only onenight in Athensbut be sure tomake a reservation. See p. 179.

Varoulko (Athens; & 210/522-8400;www.varoulko.gr): In its new Athenslocation, with a menu that adds tastymeat dishes to its signature seafood,Varoulko continues to win plaudits.Everything here is so good that many

Athenians believe chef/owner LefterisLazarou serves not only the finestseafood in Athens, but some of thebest food in all of Greece. See p. 179.

Nykterida (Chania, Crete; & 28210/64-215): Were not saying that thelocation may influence your tastebuds here, but the spectacular viewsfrom this restaurant high above Cha-nia and Soudha Bay can definitelymake you feel as if youre eating ameal like few others in Greece. See p. 322.

Selene (Santorini, Cyclades; & 22860/22-249): The best restaurant on anisland with lots of good places to eat,Selene is one of the finest restaurantsin all Greece. The reason: OwnersGeorge and Evelyn Hatzyiannakisconstantly experiment with local pro-duce to turn out their own innovativeversions of traditional dishes. Inside,the dining room is elegant, while theterrace has a wonderful view over thecaldera. See p. 358.

Petrino (Kos, Dodecanese; & 22420/27-251): When royalty come toKos, this is where they dine. Housedin an exquisitely restored, two-story,

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century-old stone (petrino) privateresidence, this is hands-down themost elegant taverna in Kos, withcuisine to match. This is what Greekhome cooking would be if yourmother were part divine. See p. 459.

Venetian Well (Corfu, IonianIslands; & 26610/44-761): A bit

severe in its setting at the edge of asmall enclosed square in Corfu town,with no attempt at the picturesque,this restaurant gets by on its moreesoteric, international, and delicatemenu. Its for those seeking a breakfrom the standard Greek scene. See p. 543.

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12 The Best Nightlife Theater Under the Stars (Athens

and Epidaurus, Peloponnese): If youcan, take in a performance of what-ever is on at Odeion of Herodes Atti-cus theater in Athens or the theater atEpidaurus. Youll be sitting wherepeople have sat for thousands of yearsto enjoy a play beneath Greeces mag-ical night sky. See chapters 6 and 8.

Mykonos (Cyclades): Mykonos isntthe only island town in Greece withnightlife that continues through themorning, but it was the first and stilloffers the most abundant, variedscene in the Aegean. Year-round, thetowns narrow, labyrinthine streetsplay host to a remarkably diversecrowdMykonoss unlimited abilityto reinvent itself has assured it of con-tinued popularity. Spring and falltend to be more sober and sophisti-cated, while the 3 months of summerare reserved for unrestrained revelry.See chapter 10.

Rhodes (Dodecanese): From cafesto casinos, Rhodes has not only the

reputation but also the stuff to backit up. A good nightlife scene is ulti-mately a matter of who shows upand this, too, is where Rhodes standsout. Its the place to be seen, and ifnobody seems to be looking, youcan always watch. See chapter 11.

Skiathos (Sporades): With as manyas 50,000 foreigners packing this tinyisland during the high season, themany nightspots in Skiathos town areoften jammed with the mostlyyounger set. If you dont like themusic at one club, cross the street.See chapter 13.

Corfu (Ionian Islands): If raucousnightspots are what you look for on aholiday, Corfu offers probably thelargest concentration in Greece. Mostof these are beach resorts frequentedby young foreigners. More sedatelocales can be found in Corfu town.Put simply, Corfu hosts a variety ofmusic, dancing, and socializingopportunities. See chapter 15.

13 The Best Natural Wonders The Caves of Dirou (Peloponnese):

No one knows how far these cavesrun into the seaside cliffs of Dirou onthe Peloponneses Mani peninsula.You can get some idea of their vast-ness by taking a tour on one of theboats that explore this undergroundlabyrinth. See p. 283.

Samaria Gorge (Crete): At 18km (11miles) long, the Samaria is the longestgorge in Europe. But although itswalls reach up to 500m (1,640 ft.)and at one point are only 2m (612 ft.)apart, its not the physical dimensionsthat attract thousands each year. Youcan credit the wildflowers, the cold

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stream, and the whole experience ofmaking your way from the heart ofCrete to its coast. See p. 324.

Santorini Caldera (Cyclades): Asyou approach Santorini by ferry, thewhitewashed cliff-top villages of Iaand Fira resemble at first a new dust-ing of mountain snow. Then the ferryenters the caldera, the cliff walls risesteeply on either side, and youre sud-denly enclosed in a fantastic bowlwhose sides are formed of red, yellow,and ocher rock and whose surface isthe shimmering blue Aegean. Some3,600 years ago, the center of theisland was blown away in a colossalvolcanic eruption, leaving behind a

roughly circular depression in the seafloor and the crescent-shaped sliver ofrock known as Santorini. The bestplaces to view the caldera are thewalking path between Fira and Ia,and the cliff-top streets in either ofthe two towns. See p. 347.

Vikos Gorge (Western Greece):With its wooded slopes, often taxingterrain, and rugged riverbed, VikosGorge in Epirus is in many ways atleast as impressive as the far better-known Samaria Gorge of Crete. Itsremoteness means that it is also farless frequentedand that muchmore a wilderness challenge. See p. 530.

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14 The Best Shopping Traditional Arts & Crafts: So many

places in Greece pride themselves ontheir needlework that it is hard to sin-gle out even a few, but among thosefew would be Crete, Rhodes, andSkyros. Two places in Athens deservemention: The Center of Hellenic Tra-dition (59 Mitropoleos and 36 Pan-drossou) and the National WelfareOrganization (6 Ipatias and Apol-lonos). The Center offers ceramics,woodcarvings, printsand one ofthe finest views of the Acropolis inAthens. The National Welfare Orga-nization contains hand-loomed rugsand silk embroidery done by villagewomen, as well as excellent copper-work and ceramics.

Leatherwork: Both Rhodes andCrete feature local leatherwork, fromsandals to handbags, from belts tojackets. Pay attention to quality.

Furs: Kastoria, in northwesternGreece, is the center of the fur trade,and fur products are everywhere.Athens, of course, sells expensive furcoats. Rhodes also features fur coats.Wherever furs are sold, be sure youknow what you are buying.

Jewelry: It now seems that half ofGreeces retail stores sell jewelry, soshop around. Much of it is really nodifferent than what can be found incities all over the world, but Athensdoes have major, internationallyknown jewelers such as LALAoUNISand Zolotas. Try Chania, Crete, forsophisticated local artisans work.Islands such as Santorini, Skiathos,and Rhodes have scores of storesappealing to the tourist trade.

Ceramics: As with needlework, potsand ceramics of all kinds are to befound throughout Greece. Some ofthe more traditional may be found onChios, Crete, Mitilini, Sifnos, andSkopelos.

Rugs/Weavings: Crete probablyoffers the largest variety of rugs andweavings. Metsovo has some distinc-tive textiles. If you like rag rugs,keep an eye out for kourouloudes onsale at small shops as you travel thePeloponnese.

Wood: Corfu seems to be the centerof olive wood productscarvingboards, bowls, utensils. Rethymnon,Crete, also has a selection. In the

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Peloponnese, woodcarvings andutensils are often found in the villagesof Arcadia. Chios and Mitilini alsoboast wood-carving traditions.

Icons and Ecclesiastical Books &Items: On the streets around theGreek Orthodox Cathedral (Metropol-itan) in Athens, youll find many shopsselling votive offerings, candles, andreproductions of icons. In Thessa-loniki, Apostolic Diakonta Book-store (& 2310/275-126) has a wideselection of religious items. Many ofthe most important religious shrines,such as Panagia Evangelistria on Tinos,and many convents and monasteries,including most of the Meteora monas-teries, sell reproductions of icons andother religious items. On Crete, thePetrakis couple in Elounda paint inter-nationally sought traditional icons.

Museum Reproductions: Officiallyapproved, fine replicas of many famousmuseum pieces may be purchased atthe Archaeological, Byzantine, Benaki,Goulandris, and LALAoUNIS muse-ums in Athens; at the Archaeologicaland Byzantine museums in Thessa-loniki; and at official archaeologicalservice stores in Rhodes Old Town andin Rethymnon, Crete.

Books: Whether youre looking forbooks about Greece or books forvacation reading, in Athens the placesto go are Eleftheroudakis, Compen-dium, Reymondos, and Folia touBibliou. In Thessaloniki, seek outIanos.

Natural Products: In the last fewyears, Greece has begun to producesuperb organic and natural products,including olive oil, honey, jams, andcosmetics. Keep an eye out for foodproducts with the Peloponnese, Gaea,Milelia, Nefeli, Yiam, and Staterlabels in groceries and delis. Goodplaces to look in Athens include mostspecialty food shops in Kolonaki, andthe Mesogaia delicatessen in thePlaka section of Athens. Green Farmin Kolonaki sells only organic pro-duce. Korres Natural Products(www.korres.com), including a widerange of herbal shampoos andlotions, and Apivitas AromatherapyEssential Oils (www.apivita.gr), arenow carried in many pharmacies andcosmetics stores (such as the wide-spread Hondos Centers) throughoutGreece.

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Planning Your Trip to Greeceby John S. Bowman

Before any trip, most of us like to do a bit of advance planning. When should I go?What is this trip going to cost me? Will there be a special holiday when I visit? Whatpractical advice might I appreciate? Well answer these and other questions for you inthis chapter.

2

1 The Regions in BriefGreece is a land of sea and mountains.Over a fifth of the Greek landmass isislands, numbering several thousand ifyou count every floating cragandnowhere in Greece will you find yourselfmore than 96km (60 miles) from the sea.It should come as no surprise that the seahas shaped the Greek imagination, as wellas its history.

Mainland Greece is a great vertebrate,with the Pindos range reaching fromnorth to south, and continuing, like atail, through the Peloponnese. The high-est of its peaks is Mount Olympus, theseat of the gods, nearly 3,000m (10,000ft.) above sea level. Eighty percent of theGreek mainland is mountainous, whichyou will rapidly discover whether youmake your way on foot or on wheels.

ATHENS Whether you arrive by sea orby air, chances are youll debark inAthens. The city is not always pleasantand is sometimes exhausting, yet itsinvaluable. Its archaeological sites andits museums alone warrant a couple ofdays of exploration. Between visits to thesites, a stroll in the National Garden willprove reviving. Then, after dark as thecity cools, the old streets of the Plaka dis-trict at the foot of the Acropolis offer you

chances to stroll, shop, and have dinnerwith an Acropolis view. The centralsquare, pedestrianized side streets, andresidential streets of Kolonaki are wherefashionable Athenians head to see and beseenand to do some serious shopping.Piraeus, as in antiquity, serves as the portof Athens and the jumping-off point tomost of the islands.

Athens is also a great base for day tripsand overnight excursions, whether to theTemple of Poseidon at Cape Sounion,the forested slopes of Mount Hymettus(Imittos), the Monastery of Kaisariani(Kessariani), the Byzantine Monastery ofDaphni, the legendary plains ofMarathon, or the ruins of Eleusis, placeof ancient mysteries.

THE SARONIC GULF ISLANDSCupped between Attica and the Pelopon-nese, in the sheltering Saronic Gulf, theseislands offer both proximity and retreatfor Athenians who, like their visitors,long for calming waters and coolerbreezes. In high season, the accessibilityof these islands on any given day, espe-cially on weekends, can be their downfall.Choose carefully your day and island, oryou may be part of the crowd youre try-ing to avoid.

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Aegina, so close to Athens it can be adaily commute, is the most besiegedisland, yet it possesses character andcharm. The main port town of Aegina ispicturesque and pleasant, while across theisland to the east, set atop a pine-crestedhill, stands the remarkably preservedTemple of Aphaia, a Doric gem. Poros,next island in line proceeding south, isconvenient to both Athens and the Pelo-ponnese. Its beaches and lively port are adraw, with the picturesque rubble of anancient, scenically situated templethrown in. Still farther south lies vehicle-free Hydra, remarkable for its naturalbeauty and handsome stone mansionsbuilt by sea captains. The port of Hydrahas a lot to offer and knows it, all ofwhich is reflected in the prices. Its a greatplace for pleasant strolls, views, and aswim off the rocks. Spetses, the farthestof these islands from Athens, offers gladesof pine trees and fine beachesand agreat many hotels catering to packageholiday tours from Europe.

THE PELOPONNESE Crossing thenarrow isthmusless than 6.5km (4miles) across at its narrowest pointfrom the mainland onto the southernpeninsula of Greece is a move you willnever regret. The Peloponnese retains asense of separation from the north andfrom the rest of Greece. Its often barrenlandscape is virtually forested with stun-ning archaeological remains, each with arichly evocative past: Mycenae, themountain citadel of Agamemnon;Olympia, birthplace of the OlympicGames; Sparta, home of Helen andMenelaus; the palace of Nestor at Pylos;the magnificent and still-used theater ofEpidaurus; the temple and stadium atNemea; and the Bema at Corinth, whereSt. Paul addressed the Corinthians. Thesmall but stately port of Nafplion pro-vides a comfortable, convenient basefrom which to explore surroundingsights.

The mountain and seaside roads of thePeloponnese are unrivalled in Greece.There are several particularly spectacularroutes we suggest you take. The vertigi-nous route from Sparta to Kalamatapasses the Byzantine ghost town of Mis-tra and continues on through the twistsand turns of Langada Pass, one ofGreeces most beautiful. Follow the excel-lent road from Tripolis to Olympia thatcuts through some of the most beautifulmountain scenery in Arcadia, passing tra-ditional villages that are among theregions loveliest. And allow yourself a dayor two to head to The Mani, the south-ernmost region of the Peloponnese,where tower- villages dot the hillsides,and coastal roads wind high above thesea.

CRETE The largest of the Greekislands, birthplace of the painter ElGreco, possesses a landscape so diverse,concentrated, and enchanting that nodescription is likely to do it justice. Espe-cially if you rent a car and do your ownexploring, a week will pass like a day.More or less circling the island on thenational highway (dont imagine an inter-state), youll drive a ring of inviting portslike Iraklion, the capital, Chania,Rethymnon, and Ayios Nikolaos.

Venturing into the heartland ofCretenot far, since Cretes width rangesfrom 12 to 56km (71235 miles)with alittle imagination, youll find the leg-endary palaces of the Minoans: Knossos,Phaestos, and Ayia Triadha, to mentiononly a few. This is not to say that Crete iswithout classical sites, Byzantine monas-teries, Venetian structures, and Turkishremains. Its Greece, after all. For theenergetic, the Gorge of Samaria callsout, as does the sea.

Crete is a culinary mecca. For thou-sands of years its wines were sent all overthe ancient world. Today, they comple-ment the fresh goat cheese and olivesalllocal and all part of Cretes spell.

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THE CYCLADES In antiquity, theCycladesthe encirclers or circlingislandshad at their center the smallisland of Delos, where mythology tells usthat Apollo and his sister Artemis wereborn. Declared a sanctuary where bothbirth and death were prohibited, Deloswas an important spiritual, cultural, andcommercial hub of the Aegean. Today, itsextensive remains remind visitors of itsformer importance. Its easy to make aday trip here from Mykonos, whosewhite, cubelike houses and narrow, twist-ing streets began to attract first a trickleand then a flood of visitors in the 1960s.Today, almost every cruise ship puts in atMykonos for at least a few hours, so thatvisitors can take in the proliferation ofcafes, restaurants, and shops. Those whospend a few days here can stay in bou-tique hotels, sip martinis in sophisticatedbarsor head inland to visit the islandsless-visited villages.

Paros (sometimes called the poormans Mykonos), is the transport hub ofthe Cyclades, with a gentle landscape,appealing villages, good beaches, andopportunities for windsurfing. From hereyou can get to Tinos, home to perhaps

the most revered of all Greek Orthodoxchurches; Naxos, whose fertile valleysand high mountains lure hikers andcampers; Folegandros, much of whosecapital Hora is built within the walls of amedieval kastro (castle); and Santorini,which some believe to be the lost Atlantis.On Santorini youll find a black lavabeach, the impressive remains of theMinoan settlement at Akrotiri, chicrestaurants, boutique hotelsand themost spectacular sunsets in all of Greece.

THE DODECANESE This string ofislands, named the 12 despite the factthat they number more than that, nearlyembrace the Turkish shoreline. Except forRhodes and Kos, all of the Dodecaneseare deforested, bare bones exposed to sunand sea. But what bones! Far to the northlies Patmos (already in the 5th c. nick-named the Jerusalem of the Aegean), aholy island where the Book of Revelationis said to have been penned and where theMonastery of St. John still dominates theland. Far to the south basks Rhodes,City of the Sun, with more than 300days of sunshine per year. For obviousreasons, its the most touristed of theislands. Rhodes has it all: history and

T H E R E G I O N S I N B R I E F 23

Greece on the Web

Anyone with access to the Web can obtain a fair amount of informationabout Greece. Remember that these sources cannot necessarily be countedon for the most up-to-date, definitive, or complete information. We adviseyou to use computer searches as supplements only, and then check out spe-cific facts on which you are going to base your travel plans. Websites arecontinually being changed and added, but among the most useful forbroad-based searches are:

www.frommers.com www.greekembassy.org www.gtp.gr www.phantis.com www.perseus.tufts.edu

Tips

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resorts, ruins and nightlife. Theres evenpeace and quietwell tell you where tofind it.

Between these two lie an array of pos-sibilities, from the uncompromised tradi-tional charm of tiny Simi to the ruins andwell-known beaches of Kos. And withTurkey so close, you may want to con-sider an easily arranged side trip.

CENTRAL GREECE Central Greece,for our purposes, stretches from theCorinth Canal to Mount Olympus. Itslandscape is vastly diverse, from the fertileBoetian plains to the snowy peaks of Par-nassus and Olympus. Also here are thelegendary battlegrounds of Thermopylae(where the Spartans under Leonidasdelayed the Persian invasion in 480 B.C.)and Chaironeia (where Philip of Mace-don defeated the Greeks in 338 B.C.).

Central Greeces best-known site is thesanctuary of Delphi, whose imposingruins and spectacular mountainside loca-tion dazzle visitors. Farther north, inThessaly, the monasteries on the loftyotherworldly heights of Meteora offerglimpses into the Byzantine and modernGreek world of the Orthodox Church. Ifyou have a less austere retreat in mind,

the traditional villages on the lush, gentleslopes of Pelionwhere centaurs onceroamedare ideal places to relax underchestnut trees and read up on all thatyouve seen, and all that you plan to see,in Greece.

THE SPORADES Whether by air,ferry, or hydrofoil, the Sporades, strewnnorth and east of the island of Evvia(Euboea), are readily accessible from themainland and offer verdant forest land-scapes, gold-sand beaches, and crystallinewaters. Thats the good news. The badnews is that they are no secret. Skiathosis the most popular. Skopelos, whoselovely port is one of the most striking inGreece, is more rugged and remote thanSkiathos, with more trails and fewernightclubs. Relatively far-off Skyros iswell worth a visit, offering underwaterfishing and diving, sandy beaches, andluminously clear waters.

WESTERN GREECE NorthwesternGreece, or Epirus, is predominantlymountainous and mostly cut off by thosemountains from the sea. It is unlikely thatyou will encounter many tourists. Naturelovers and trekkers venture here to chal-lenge themselves hiking Vikos Gorge

C H A P T E R 2 . P L A N N I N G Y O U R T R I P T O G R E E C E24

Security in Greece: Red Alert

Inevitably and understandably, travelers might be concerned about thethreat of terrorists in Greece. As for Al-Qaeda or Islamic militants, there hasnever been any indication that they have a presence, let alone an agenda,in Greece. For one thing, Greece is pro-Palestinian, and militant Muslimshave no desire to offend. This is not to say that there might not be angryand anti-American Middle Easterners in Greece. In fact, many Greeksoppose U.S. foreign policiesmost particularly, the war in Iraq. But in alllocales where tourists are apt to be, you will find at least formal politeness.In conclusion, the potential threat from terrorists in Greece is no greaterthan in any place in the world today. If you remain concerned, governmen-tal travel warnings for both security and health threats are posted byhttp://travel.state.gov for Ame