FROTH CRAFT BEER MAG 25

FOOD & BEERWords by Claire Henderson / Pics by Emily Day

166 JOHNSTON ST, FITZROY

Bairn: childBelter: amazingAuld: oldGaffs: placesBurd: girlHeevin: busyBraw: great

Bonnie wee lassie: pretty small girlMingin’: horribleCannae: can’tNumpty: silly personCowped: tippedGubbed: beaten

SCOTTISH – ENGLISH GLOSSARY

From left: Vegetarian pasta; 3 Ravens Dark Smoke Beer; Murray River Lamb with Temple’s Bicycle Beer.

FITZROY TOWN HALL HOTEL

The Fitzroy Town Hall Hotel might be one of Johnston Street’s most historical venues, but really, it’s just a bairn. Some might remember it better as Griff’s Wine Pub, or the Purple Turtle (belter of a name), or even McCoppin’s back in the golden auld days. Now it’s just plain old Town Hall Hotel, but what it has to offer is anything but bland.

Bought over in July last year by chef Sean Donovan (the sizzling steak chap extraordinaire formerly of the Station Hotel in Footscray and the Wayside Inn in South Melbourne), he and his wife closed the place for refurbishment and revamping, stripping it back to its original style, but with a big splash of class. In fact, it’s a bit fancy-pants compared to the gaffs I usually frequent on a Friday night, so this slightly scruffy

burd dolled herself up and even put on a skirt for the occasion.

The old-British aristocratic décor is cool blue and wood with a big fireplace adorned with deer’s antlers, and (my favourite touch) tartan lampshades. It’s a spacious setting with a cosy dining room, colourful courtyard and slick bar area, which makes a nice change from somewhere that’s so heevin you might as well be eating with the table of folk next to you.

And just to make the place even more appealing, the restaurant beer list is braw.

My beer-guzzling bonnie wee lassie Emily Day got fired

straight into the 3 Ravens Dark Smoke Beer – and aptly described the taste as “like a campfire in middle of winter with friends”. That’ll be a winner then.

Despite it being one of those mingin’ Melbourne summer days where you need a winter coat, I decided to keep it summery with a Temple Bicycle Beer. I closed my eyes, took a deep swig, and wahey! Fruity and light, it was just like a summer’s day again, in my mouth at least.

Our feast started with a basket of warm bread and salty butter – you just cannae beat it.

Claire Henderson is a perpetually hungry Scot who goes through life with her glass at least half-full.

Eton Mess for dessert, enjoyed with a 3 Ravens American Pale Ale.

Em squared up to the Chocolate Nemesis with Caramelised Fig – and guess who won? The running commentary between bites of the slab of dense chocolate cake and homemade vanilla ice cream was: “This is the fudgiest situation I’ve ever been in…It’s not food, it’s a death sentence.” And at that the fight was over. Em – 0, Chocolate Nemesis – 1.

My initial response to the first spoonful of my ridiculously large bowl of classic English dessert Eton’s Mess was “Fuck off!”– meant in the happiest, pig-in-shit way ever. In fact, it was definitely the best Eton Mess I’ve ever had, and I’ve had a few in my time. The big blob of passionfruit sorbet in the middle was fresh and zingy,

cutting through the obscene amount of cream, crushed meringue, strawberries and mint. Was I defeated? They may take our lives, but they’ll never take our appetite! I basically licked the bowl clean.

We both rolled out the door, with my skirt about to burst … but it was worth every bite.Verdict: Come wi’ the serious munchies or prepare to be gubbed!

The meat-heavy menu was a delight for me, but for vego Em the options were limited. However, the cheery waiter assured us they were more than happy to accommodate her and could rustle up a “vegetarian surprise”, which was lucky because a) no good story ever started with a salad b) salad just ain’t gonna cut it when drinking beers.

The surprise was revealed to be a ginormous portion of roasted vegie pasta with cheese, and she was more than happy with her “super hearty, honest country food”. My Murray River lamb, served on a bed of Provencale veg and salsa verde looked too pretty to eat – but I did, of course, get my chops right round it. The lamb slices were melt-in-the-mouth tender, perfectly partnered with the salsa verde, and the veg was absolutely scrumptious.

The next round consisted of a Mountain Goat Surefoot Stout for Em, which the wee numpty nearly cowped over me in her excitement. I was happy with my 3 Ravens American Pale Ale, which was surprisingly flavoursome and hoppy.

By this stage, both of us were hitting the “pop a button” stage, but we decided we’d get a dessert each anyway, because they all sounded so damn delicious.

MY INITIAL RESPONSE WAS “FUCK OFF!” –

IN THE HAPPIEST, PIG-IN-SHIT WAY