garment dyeing & finishing - infohouseinfohouse.p2ric.org/ref/12/11960.pdf · - threads must be...

30

Upload: vankhuong

Post on 14-Mar-2018

237 views

Category:

Documents


4 download

TRANSCRIPT

Page 1: Garment Dyeing & Finishing - InfoHouseinfohouse.p2ric.org/ref/12/11960.pdf · - Threads must be of same fiber as the fabric in the garment or ... waist band, fly, side seams,
Page 2: Garment Dyeing & Finishing - InfoHouseinfohouse.p2ric.org/ref/12/11960.pdf · - Threads must be of same fiber as the fabric in the garment or ... waist band, fly, side seams,
Page 3: Garment Dyeing & Finishing - InfoHouseinfohouse.p2ric.org/ref/12/11960.pdf · - Threads must be of same fiber as the fabric in the garment or ... waist band, fly, side seams,

I

Page 4: Garment Dyeing & Finishing - InfoHouseinfohouse.p2ric.org/ref/12/11960.pdf · - Threads must be of same fiber as the fabric in the garment or ... waist band, fly, side seams,
Page 5: Garment Dyeing & Finishing - InfoHouseinfohouse.p2ric.org/ref/12/11960.pdf · - Threads must be of same fiber as the fabric in the garment or ... waist band, fly, side seams,

Reasons for Testing

1. Research and development

- New products

2 Selection of raw materials

. 3. Process development

4. Product testing

- Compliance testing

- End use performance

- Lot to lot comparison

- Defect detection

- Advertising

The expense of testing is not at all costly when

compared to the cost of retwned merchandise and

dissatisfied customers.

- - -

Page 6: Garment Dyeing & Finishing - InfoHouseinfohouse.p2ric.org/ref/12/11960.pdf · - Threads must be of same fiber as the fabric in the garment or ... waist band, fly, side seams,

- \

Manuf ac fur ers

- QC and R & D

Tho does Testing

Independent Researchers

- Universities

- Independent testing labs

Government Agencies

- Customs

- Military

- CPSC

Page 7: Garment Dyeing & Finishing - InfoHouseinfohouse.p2ric.org/ref/12/11960.pdf · - Threads must be of same fiber as the fabric in the garment or ... waist band, fly, side seams,

I

Standards Organioa tions

American Association of Textile Cbemists and Colorists P. 0. Box 12215 Research Triangle Park, NC 27709 (919) 549-8141

American Society for Testing and Materials 1916 Race Street Philadelphia, PA 19103 (215) 299-5400

General Services Administration Printed Materials Supply Division Building 197, Naval Weapons Plant Washington, DC 20407

American National Standards Institute 1430 Broad way New Yort, NY 10018

International Organization for Standardidion (ISO)

0

Page 8: Garment Dyeing & Finishing - InfoHouseinfohouse.p2ric.org/ref/12/11960.pdf · - Threads must be of same fiber as the fabric in the garment or ... waist band, fly, side seams,

I

--

WHAT YOU'D GET

FROM "99 09% SUPPLIERS"

-AT LEAST 20,000 WRONG DRUG PRESCRIPTIONS EACH YEAR

-MORE THAN 15,000 NEWBORN B A B I E S ACCIDENTALLY DPOF'PED BY DOCTORS/NURSES EACH YEAR

-UNSAFE D R I N K I N G WATER ALMOST 1 HOUR EACH MONTH

-2 SHORT OR LCNGi LANDING A T O'HARE AIRPORT EACH DAY (ALSO NEW YORKj LOS ANGELES, ATLANTA, ETCo

-NEARLY 500 INCORRECT SURGICAL OPERATIONS PER WEEK

-2000 LOST ARTICLES OF M A I L PER HOUR

Page 9: Garment Dyeing & Finishing - InfoHouseinfohouse.p2ric.org/ref/12/11960.pdf · - Threads must be of same fiber as the fabric in the garment or ... waist band, fly, side seams,

--

KEYS TO GOOD QUALITY

1 .Consistency

2.Uniformiw

3.Knits-low tension

Page 10: Garment Dyeing & Finishing - InfoHouseinfohouse.p2ric.org/ref/12/11960.pdf · - Threads must be of same fiber as the fabric in the garment or ... waist band, fly, side seams,

Standards

A standard is a technical document that describes the

design, material, processing, safety, or performance

characteristics of products.

Types of Standards

1 Standard Test Methods

Specify procedure, apparatus, and conditions of tests.

2. Standard Classification

Permit rating of products based on quality or performance.

3. Standard Definition or Nomenclature

Establishes uniformimly accepted meanings for terms.

Page 11: Garment Dyeing & Finishing - InfoHouseinfohouse.p2ric.org/ref/12/11960.pdf · - Threads must be of same fiber as the fabric in the garment or ... waist band, fly, side seams,

Standards - cont.

4 Prescriptive Standards

State requirements for construction, materials, and design.

5. Standard Performance

Means of judging product acceptability

6. Standard Specifications

A combination of standards, including one or more of the above types.

Standards may be manditoy or voluntary.

Page 12: Garment Dyeing & Finishing - InfoHouseinfohouse.p2ric.org/ref/12/11960.pdf · - Threads must be of same fiber as the fabric in the garment or ... waist band, fly, side seams,

--- End Uses of Textiles That Require Special Properties

Apparel

clothing - shirts and pants underwear outerwear - coats and sweaters protective clothing - rainwear hosiery

Domestic

bed linens, spreads, and blankets towels and washcloths tablecloths

Home Furnishings

curtains and drapes wall coverings upholstery

Floor Coverings

I -- - Industrial

~

I ' belts, tires, tents, awnings...-

Page 13: Garment Dyeing & Finishing - InfoHouseinfohouse.p2ric.org/ref/12/11960.pdf · - Threads must be of same fiber as the fabric in the garment or ... waist band, fly, side seams,

I

Testing

1 A test method is useful if it gives reproducible

results which correlate with the parameter of

--

interest to the user.

2 Test values may be absolute or relative.

3. Interlaboratory correlation is important.

4 End-use testing (specifications) vs. In-Process

testing (QC).

Page 14: Garment Dyeing & Finishing - InfoHouseinfohouse.p2ric.org/ref/12/11960.pdf · - Threads must be of same fiber as the fabric in the garment or ... waist band, fly, side seams,

: Accuracy vs. Yrecision

O O o + o

0 0 0

+ Actual or standard value o Observed values

Precise, but not accurate I

+

+ Actual or standard value o Observed values

Page 15: Garment Dyeing & Finishing - InfoHouseinfohouse.p2ric.org/ref/12/11960.pdf · - Threads must be of same fiber as the fabric in the garment or ... waist band, fly, side seams,

Statistical Imwovement of

Precision

Precision can be improved by increasing the number of

tests performed because the standard error of the

average is equal to the standard deviation of the test

data values divided by the square root of the number of

observations.

I

I

I

I

I

I

i ~

*

Page 16: Garment Dyeing & Finishing - InfoHouseinfohouse.p2ric.org/ref/12/11960.pdf · - Threads must be of same fiber as the fabric in the garment or ... waist band, fly, side seams,

Physical Forms of Textile Substrates

Fiber

Staple - short, loose fibers

Top - Combed and slightly twisted ropes of wool

or synthetic fibers (long staple)

Tow - Large bundles of nontwisted continuous filament

Yam

Staple

Filament

Fabric

Open width (woven or knitted)

Rope (woven or knitted)

Tubular (knitted)

-.- Garments

Page 17: Garment Dyeing & Finishing - InfoHouseinfohouse.p2ric.org/ref/12/11960.pdf · - Threads must be of same fiber as the fabric in the garment or ... waist band, fly, side seams,

Sampling Guidelines

1. Sample RANDOMLY if possible to prevent bias.

2. Better to take small samples frequently than to take

large samples infrequently.

3. Identify each sample and indicate warp direction.

4. ASTM gives procedure for'sampling yarns from

packages and from fabrics.

5. Fabric sampling normally done at ends of rolls to

prevent losses, but it would be better to sample

middle of the roll to be certain of end-to-end

uniformity .

6. Sample no closer than 2 in. (or 10% of the width of

-- ~

the fabric) from the selvedge.

7. No two specimens should come from the same yarns.

Page 18: Garment Dyeing & Finishing - InfoHouseinfohouse.p2ric.org/ref/12/11960.pdf · - Threads must be of same fiber as the fabric in the garment or ... waist band, fly, side seams,
Page 19: Garment Dyeing & Finishing - InfoHouseinfohouse.p2ric.org/ref/12/11960.pdf · - Threads must be of same fiber as the fabric in the garment or ... waist band, fly, side seams,

GARMENT DYEING

Why garment dye? - Quick response to the market ( bar coding, etc.) - Ability to supply a wide range of colorations to the retailer, but only

in the shades that are selling - Reduced discounted sales at inventory - Best way to acheived relaxed, casual look - Ability to create special effects such as

tie dyed splatter dyed weathered pigment dye and washdown in a single process etc.

Special considerations to garment dyer - Very good communications between all parties involved - Preparation - may be done on piece goods or on garments

. clean substrate for dyeing

. reduced shrinkage (preferably squared) for wovens should be less than 5% for knits should be less than 8%

- Metal components should be non-ferrous

nickel plated brass zippers are acceptable pewter buttons are acceptable

- Non-metal components that are not sensitive to dye chemistry or

temperatures at a boil are acceptable polyester zippers, buttons, etc. which are clear or predyed Velcro - clear or predyed special polyamide buttons which are dyeable

Page 20: Garment Dyeing & Finishing - InfoHouseinfohouse.p2ric.org/ref/12/11960.pdf · - Threads must be of same fiber as the fabric in the garment or ... waist band, fly, side seams,

- Threads must be of same fiber as the fabric in the garment or

"grinning" will occur. Predyed threads may be used Corespun threads with a strength or stretch yam in the

Covered threads may be used core and the desired fiber on the outside

- "Tacking" of sleeves and pant legs to prevent tangling

Equipment used for garment dyeing - Rotary dyeing machines are preferred - Paddle dyeing machines can be used - State-of-the-art technology

. Low liquor ratio

. Gentle movement of garments and liquor Rapid heating and cooling Quick drop and fill Variable speed movement and reversible drums Hy dro-extraction Continuous circulation of goods Easily sampled

Overflow rinsing Microprocessor controls Compartmental chambers - "Y" pockets, Chemical add-tanks with controlled dosing Automated loading and unloading

Lint filtering

Page 21: Garment Dyeing & Finishing - InfoHouseinfohouse.p2ric.org/ref/12/11960.pdf · - Threads must be of same fiber as the fabric in the garment or ... waist band, fly, side seams,

\

PADDLE MACHINE

MACHINE FRONT

1-paddle wheel 2-stainless steel 3-false bottom 4-steamldye feed

W

ROTARY MACHINE

F r o n t Load Y-Pocket Front Load Open Pocket

Page 22: Garment Dyeing & Finishing - InfoHouseinfohouse.p2ric.org/ref/12/11960.pdf · - Threads must be of same fiber as the fabric in the garment or ... waist band, fly, side seams,

TYPICAL ROTARY DRUM GARMENT DYEING MACHINE

A .

B.

C .

D.

E.

F.

G.

Perforated drum (with Y-pocket).

Machine c o n t r o l l e r .

Sampling p o r t .

Liquor level i n d i c a t o r .

In-line lint f i l t e r .

Heat-exchanger.

Addition tanks .

Page 23: Garment Dyeing & Finishing - InfoHouseinfohouse.p2ric.org/ref/12/11960.pdf · - Threads must be of same fiber as the fabric in the garment or ... waist band, fly, side seams,

GARMENT WASHING TECHNIQUES

- Started out as prewashed jeans technique.

- Now washed to suit individual preferences

softness (desize or break hand) contrast (acid wash, etc.) one-of-a-kind looks preshrink

- Today, every aspect of fiber type

Yam type fabric construction pretreatments dyeing procedures, and finishing techniques

are used to engineer new products.

- Systems often used: Wash-down Stone wash Acid wash -- Cellulase wash Combinations of the above

Page 24: Garment Dyeing & Finishing - InfoHouseinfohouse.p2ric.org/ref/12/11960.pdf · - Threads must be of same fiber as the fabric in the garment or ... waist band, fly, side seams,

I

STONE WASH

Stones

_-

Type pumice rock volcanic rock man-made substrates

Hardness

Size

Shape

Porosity

Dusting ability

Applications

. large, hard stones which last longer for heavy fabrics

. smaller, softer stones for lightweight and more delicate fabrics

. ratio of stone weight to fabric weight = 0 2 1 up to 3:l

Page 25: Garment Dyeing & Finishing - InfoHouseinfohouse.p2ric.org/ref/12/11960.pdf · - Threads must be of same fiber as the fabric in the garment or ... waist band, fly, side seams,

TYPICAL PROCEDURE FOR STONE WASHING

1- Load garments and stones ( load to 30-50% of normal machine capacity)

2- Desize if needed with - detergent plus enzyme for starch

- oxidative desize

3- Rinse

4- Stone wash (with or without bleaching agent)

5- Rinse

6- Soften

7- Extract

8- Unload garments, remove stones from garments

9- Tumbledry

Notes: Backstaining or color deposition can be reduced by

a- adding dispersantlsuspension agent to wash cycle b- intermediate replacement of wash liquor c. use of alkaline detergent (sodium perborate with optical brightener

as an afterwash

Page 26: Garment Dyeing & Finishing - InfoHouseinfohouse.p2ric.org/ref/12/11960.pdf · - Threads must be of same fiber as the fabric in the garment or ... waist band, fly, side seams,

CELLULASE ENZYME

Stones are not only abrasive to garments but also to the equipment.

Stones can create sludge in waste treatment systems.

Cellulase enzyme is a particular strain of enzyme derived from micro- organisms selective to cotton form of cellulose and not to starch. They attack 1 - 4 beta glucoside linkages resulting in reduced molecular weight and therefore removal of surface fiber.

Main factors that control enzyme washing:

1 - pH

2 - temperature

3 - time

4 - concentration

5 - mechanical action

Once the reaction takes place, the mechanical action between garments and equipment as well as between garments femoves weaker fibers resulting a cleaner, smoother surface. Stones may be added to enhance the abrasion.

Page 27: Garment Dyeing & Finishing - InfoHouseinfohouse.p2ric.org/ref/12/11960.pdf · - Threads must be of same fiber as the fabric in the garment or ... waist band, fly, side seams,

TYPICAL PROCEDURE FOR CELLULASE ENZYME WASHDOWN (TWO STEP PROCEDURE)

Load garments (addition of stones optional) Desize for starch - alpha-amalase enzyme or - oxidative desize Rinse Adjust pH to 4.5 - 5.0 with - acetic acid or - a buffer system Heat to 50 to 60 C ( 122 - 140 F) Add cellulase enzyme Tumble for 30 - 60 minutes Deactivation step * - rinse hot > 65 C ( 150 F) Rinse cold Soften and/or optically brighten Tumble dry

Deactivation of the cellulase enzyme to prevent further weight reduction can be done by temperatures in excess of 60 C (140 F) and/or at a pH higher than 5.0.

Cellulase enzymes may be used as an aftertreatment to clean up surfaces of garments which have become fuzzy during garment dyeing. The shade of the dyed garments may change which requires preliminary lab work to determine if this will be a problem or not.

Page 28: Garment Dyeing & Finishing - InfoHouseinfohouse.p2ric.org/ref/12/11960.pdf · - Threads must be of same fiber as the fabric in the garment or ... waist band, fly, side seams,

ACID WASH

- Also known as ICE WASH, SNOW WASH, WHITE WASH, ETC.

- Complete discharge or removal of color possible

- Uses pumice rocks, bleaching agents and dyestuffs that are sensitive to the bleaching agents.

- Porous rocks that have a medium to high dusting capability are soaked in solutions of bleaching agents such as sodium hypochlorite or potassium permanganate. The chemistry is absorbed and is transferred by the cutting action of the rocks and deposited with the dust onto the garment surfaces.

*

- Rocks must have ability to

. absorb chemistry in less than 2 hours

. dusteasily

. apply dust evenly on smooth surfaces and on high peaks of garment such around cuffs, waist band, fly, side seams, etc. and not in recessed spaces in those same areas.

- Load size in pounds of garments should only be 25 - 33% of rated capacity

to allow for free tumbling of the garments and stones and for proper drop distance.

_-

- Ratio of the weight of the stones to the garments should be

0.5 : 1 for a light wash out 3 : 1 for a complete white out

Page 29: Garment Dyeing & Finishing - InfoHouseinfohouse.p2ric.org/ref/12/11960.pdf · - Threads must be of same fiber as the fabric in the garment or ... waist band, fly, side seams,

TYPICAL ACID WASH PROCEDURE

1) Load (25 - 33% rated capacity) 2) Desize for starch with alpha-amalase enzyme or oxidative desize 3) Rinse 4) Extract to a certain uniform moisture

60 - 70% light frost 70 - 90% medium frost 90 - 100% heavy frost (white-out)

5) Add presoaked stones (machine should be dry) with ratio dependent

‘6) Tumble for 10 - 30 minutes 7) Remove garments 8) Neutralize 9) Soften and/or brighten

upon desired effect (0.5-3.0 : 1 , stones to garments)

10) Tumbledry

* Stones should be allowed to drip or blotted with waste fabric to remove excess solution to prevent spotting. Stones can be used up to three times in some cases before resoaking is necessary.

* Neutralization usually takes place in another machine and the exact proced-

ure is dependent on the discharge agent used. Sodium hypochlorite (Na OC1) with sodium bisulfite (NaHSO ) or

hydrogen peroxide (H 0 ) Potassium permanganate (KMnO and purple in solution ) converts

to manganese dioxide (MnO which is orange-brown in color) which must be neutralized with sodium bisulfite or hydroxylamine sulfate ((NH OH) H SO ).

Page 30: Garment Dyeing & Finishing - InfoHouseinfohouse.p2ric.org/ref/12/11960.pdf · - Threads must be of same fiber as the fabric in the garment or ... waist band, fly, side seams,