garment industry departments

GARMENT EXPORTS

A A

GARMENT INDUSTRY DEPARTMENTS AND WORKINGGARMENT INDUSTRY DEPARTMENTS AND WORKING

RAJESH.K

1Summer Internship Report

GARMENT EXPORTS

TABLE OF CONTENTS

CHAPTER TITLE

1 DEPARTMENTS

2.1. MERCHANDISING

2.2. SAMPLING DEPARTMENT

2.3. FABRIC SOURCING

2.4. PURCHASING DEPARTMENT

2.5. FABRIC AUDIT DEPARTMENT

2.6. ACCESSORY STORES DEPARTMENT

2.7.PLANNING DEPARTMENT

2.8 .LABORATORY DEPARTMENT

2.9. MACHINE MAINTENANCE

2.10. CAD ROOM

2.11. CUTTING ROOM

2.12. PRODUCTION DEPARTMENT

2.13. IED DEPARTMENT

2.14. EMBROIDERY DEPARTMENT

2.15. WASHING DEPARTMENT

2.16.QUALITY ASSURANCE DEPARTMENT

2.17.FINISHING DEPARTMENT


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CHAPTER 2

2.1. MERCHANDISING

Merchandising is a process through which products are planned, developed, executed and

presented to the buyer. It includes directing and overseeing the development of product line from

start to finish. Marketing and merchandising department: A team of merchandisers and marketers

work together under a profit controls head. Merchandisers handle the foreign buyers. The teams

are made according to the buyers being handled.

Two type of merchandising done in garment exports

Marketing merchandising.

Product merchandising.

Marketing merchandising

Main function of marketing merchandising is


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Product Development

Costing

Ordering

Marketing merchandising is to bring orders costly products development and it has direct

contact with the buyer.

Product merchandising

Product merchandising is done in the unit. This includes all the responsibilities from

sourcing to finishing i.e. first sample onwards, the products merchandising work start and ends till

shipment.

A Merchandisers key responsibility is as follows:-

Product Development

Market and product Analysis

Selling the concept

Booking orders

Confirming Deliveries

Designing and Sampling

Costing

Raw Material

Flow Monitoring

Production Follow Ups

Payments Follows

Department structure


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MARKETING MERCHANDISER

HEAD MERCHANDISER

SENIOR MERCHANDISER

JUNIOR MERCHANDISER

In an export house, merchandising is a combination of business and technical aspects. Senior

merchandisers have responsibilities of products development and coordinating with the buyer, the

garment styles that meets buyer’s expectations in regards to delivery, quality, and price point.

Junior merchandisers have the responsibility of handling paper work and follow up, detailing with

buyers, overseas communication etc. Once the order is placed it is their duty to complete the

necessary paper work, provide breakdown information to all other department and get samples

approved for fit, color and quality. Communications with overseas and domestic suppliers,

approval of production samples, and development of fabric and yarns are also included in product

development, which are co-coordinated with other departments. Merchandisers have to negotiate

with the buyers on pricing, work out delivery schedules, and investigate for future buyers. Overall

we can say that merchandising is the core department of the entire industry.

Costing

The most important activity for the merchant is to estimate correctly and negotiate for the cost of

production before the buyer sends on his PO .During the pre-development stage an initial costing

occurs to get an idea of the garment cost likely to be incurred per piece.


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These costs includes general raw material cost, manufacturing cost, washing cost, markup cost

etc. Once the production sample is approved and the grading done a final costing is done

accurately using fabric averages from the CAD, cost of trims etc.


Start

Obtain tech pack from buyer

Sampling

Analyze fabric consumption from CAD

Analyze cost of trims and fabric

Obtain general sewing data from IED

Prepare cost sheet from sample

Develop sample as per the tech pack

Develop proto sample

Cost sheet & sample sent to buyer for approval

Approval Cost sheet reworked

Confirmation of order

Obtain PCD & details from production unit

Source trims & fabric from concerned dept.

Book washing & embroidery capacity if required

Obtain GSD from IED

Execution of order by entering details in ERP

Prepare sample as per buyer requirements

Forward the sample to buyer for approval

ApprovalComments received from buyer should be incorporated and fit sample reworked

Hold pre production meeting with the production unit

Execute bulk order

Costing

Follow up with production departments & update the buyer

Submit required documents to documentation dept

Offer garments for final inspection. Truck out

Follow up on the payments for goods

End

NoYes

NoYes

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2.2. SAMPLING DEPARTMENT

BASIC WORK FLOW;

In any export house, the sampling department is one of the most important departments

and it plays a vital in the uplifting of a unit.

Sampling department directly co-ordinates with the merchandising and production

department. Sampling is done to see how the product will look like when produced in bulk and to

check whether there are any discrepancies in the pattern are made according to the buyer’s

specification.

Merchandiser procures order from the buyer. The buyer sends spec sheet, sketches, fabric

details, embellishment details, stitch type etc to the merchandiser. Merchandiser files this

information along with the details regarding costing, average, proto, fit, correction, size set and

approval in to a style package and hands it over to the Sampling department head.

Sampling is the product development stage. It is a process by which a small number of

garments are made so as to match the buyer requirement and to get approval from the buyer so as

to start off the production. The sampled garments represent the accuracy of the patterns and

quality of production skills and techniques. The samples not only serve the purpose of

communicating correctly with the buyer regarding their styles and products, but it also helps to

calculate the fabric consumption along with that of thread and other accessories used.

It is different from bulk production as here each tailor is multi skilled. This department makes

samples on the basis of specifications and requirements sent by the buyer in the tech pack.


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TYPES OF SAMPLES

Proto Sample:

Fit Sample:

Pilot Run Sample:

Pre Production Sample:

Pre Size set:

Size Set:

TOP Sample:

Shipment Sample:

Sales Sample:

Machine details

There were a total of 300 machines in the sampling department.

250 operators

5 cutting tables

8 pattern making tables

1 conveyor belt fusing machine

Finishing machines

11 ironing tables

1 shirt folding machine


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The Details Attached to the Garment Sample

After the confirmation of order, each sample sent to the buyer has the following details attached

to it, with the help of a tag. It contains the details pertaining to both, what the buyer has demanded

and what supplement fabric/trim etc they have used (if applicable).

Ref no.

Color

Fabric

Composition

Description

Quantity

Style no/ Size

Store


Tech pack received from merchant

Develop patterns

Costing CAD marker

Develop sample

Develop fit/proto sample

Revise Fit/Proto sample

PP sample

Revise PP sample Size set sample

Incorporate buyer comments

Sealer sample

Incorporate buyer comments

Bulk production (shrinkage to be added if it’s a wash program)

If no comments

If no comments

If no comments

If no comments

If any comments comments




Fig 3: Workflow of sampling

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2.3. FABRIC SOURCING

Fabric sourcing department is basically engaged in determining how and where its

merchandise i.e fabric will be obtained. It works in co-ordination with the merchandising

department and looks after the delivery of the required goods within the scheduled time and

cost. A fabric sourcer must have a knowledge about all varieties of fabric in order to execute

their function effectively.

STORAGE

Location system of storage is followed i.e. fabric packages are stored in two areas (a)Checked

fabric and (b) Unchecked fabric. Such system maintenance of the store makes it easy to locate the

fabric whenever needed in future.

FABRIC ISSUE

The fabric store issues the fabric for cutting on challan. All fabric is not issued at one go; instead it

is issued as required. The challan contains information regarding style no, color, buyer’s name, and

quantity to be issued and issued for which production unit.

FABRIC SOURCING

Fabric requisition from merchandiser

Order placed

Fabric receive invoice/challan

Unloading after checking


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Tally with supplier invoice for quantity

Send bill to gate for entry

Receive fabric in store

Forward fabric for inspection

Inspection report sends to the concern merchant or sourcing dept.

After comments reentry in the system with final comments if rejected or accepted

If accepted

Relocation in store

Issue against job order


StartSampling

Technical analysis. Vendor evaluation/selection ovendor

Order Placement

S/Off,L

Submit to buyer

If Ok

Sampling yardage/ lab tests

Final approval by buyer

Redo S/Off

If not Ok

Resubmission

Bulk

Receiving order from merchants

Technical analysis

Supplier selection

POP Review & P.O Confirmation

Fabric receipt

P.O Release to supplier

Co-ordinate with fabric audit & factory for quantity and quality checking.

End

Bulk

Rate quotation from suppliers

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2.4. PURCHASING DEPARTMENT

Functioning of the Department :

The purchasing department is similar to the sourcing department but the main difference

is that the sourcing department works for sourcing the fabrics alone while the purchasing

department works for sourcing the accessories and trims. However, the working procedure is the

same. The working is as follows.

The merchandisers give the techpack and the BOM (Bill Of Materials) for a particular

style to the purchasing department and the concerned person will start the further process and for

costing purposes the in-house price is given like, the cost involved in the production and also the

price involved for a unit involved with respect to the complete procedure involved for its

production. In the process of doing the in-house price , suppose the cost of 100 pieces of button

is Rs.32 then a Taxes of 2% + 14% of exercise duty + 10% of per unit price is added as the

transportation charges and this all together makes the in-house price (a hidden margin of 5% is

also taken into consideration).

This breakup is given to the merchandiser by the purchasing department for the costing

purpose, the cost sheet is made by the merchandisers and the order is confirmed by the buyer

based on the cost sheet given by the merchandiser.

After the order is being confirmed by the buyer the merchandiser will sit with the other

concerned departments and then the exact quantity required and the breakup of the trims and

accessories with respect to colour, size, MOQ, etc., will be given by the merchandiser to the

purchasing department in the form of a sheet which is generally followed in the industry for all

the orders irrespective of the buyer.

Once the purchasing department receives this format, then the PO is sent to the concerned

department for accessories and trims. Once the first shot of the raw materials is sent by the

supplier then the lab dips is done and is approved by the buyer.


Booking from merchants

Supplier price Quotation and negotiation

Adjust existing qty

Proposals

PO conformation

If YesCheck existing stock

If No

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After receiving the goods from the supplier they are checked for the quantity and also

checked according to the inspection criteria specified by the buyer and replaced if any of them

are not meeting this criterion. This department also keeps in track of all the quantities received

in-house timely. The goods are generally received in breakups as suggested by the merchandiser

according to the requirements stated by the planning and the production department and this

breakups will have specified date and quantity and if this breakups is not being mentioned then

the order is being placed with the supplier several times for small quantities and PO’s have to be

sent all the time so, in order to overcome this a breakups are being is given.

Then the purchase department has to follow up with the supplier for deliveries as and

when the merchandiser asks for the new set of the materials for that particular style and then the

department also has to maintain the receipts and also they have to maintain the documents of the

inspections that are being carried out for those materials.


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2.5. FABRIC AUDIT DEPARTMENT

The main objectives of this department are:

Analysis of defects in the fabric by various methods. Selection of fabric according to AQL 1.5.

Inspection is done on the following grounds:

100% shade segregation is done. 100% width segregation is done. 15% fabric inspection is done for defects. 10 – 15% shrinkage test for light weight fabrics and mostly 100% for heavy weight fabrics. The fabric is checked in full width form only. The quantity is checked, whether the mentioned length of the roll is correct or not.

SHADE SEGREGATION

The process for shade segregation in the fabric audit department is described follows:

The fabric is received from the fabric store with Lab report. Swatch of fabric of about minimum 10% or at times 100% rolls from each lot / color are cut

for lab tests if any. ¼ meters stripe across width of each roll or taka selected is cut and shade segregation is

done. All the cut pieces are aligned and made into a family or group and declare shades. Sometimes, swatch cards or shade bands are prepared and then fabric strip from each roll is matched.

In some cases the shade groups are made after washing also. While doing shade segregation, color matching done by using paramount color matching

cabinet which is provided with D-65, TL-84, CWF, TL-83, UV, INCA light sources. The shade bands or lot bands are then sent to concerned merchandisers, sourcing

departments, cutting departments for approval and references. All the shade details are sent to the concerned people.


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FABRIC INSPECTION

In GARMENT, four point grading system is followed in the fabric audit department. All fabrics are inspected under the 4 point inspection system. Penalty points are assigned based on the standard fault size for every type of fault and colored stickers are then put for the identification of serious defects in the subsequent process. Fault description under the 4 point inspection system :

LEVEL POINT INDICATION0-3 inches 1 Yellow3-6 inches 2 Green6-9 inches 3 NavyOver 9 inches 4 Red

Here the fabric acceptable level is maintained at:o 30 points per 100 sq yards for mill made/ imported fabric.

o 40 points per 100 sq yards for power loom fabric.

For checking whether the fabric is within the acceptable level, points/100 sq. yards is calculated as:Points / 100 sq yard = (total no. of points * 3300) / (width in inches * length

in mtrs)Example:-PASS :- (57*3300) / (44*300) = 14 points / 100 sq yardsFAIL :- (47*3300) / (44*45) = 78 points / 100 sq yards

Width measurement of all the rolls is taken at least 1 time and minimum width is recorded which helps in freezing the cuttable width of the fabric.

The fabric length of the roll piece is checked and compared against length declared by supplier.

For every fabric order one meter of fabric is kept aside for lab testing and quality standard reference randomly.

Minimum of the ten bits from different bales of fabric is kept from every consignment order for shrinkage test.

The inspection results are then filled in goods inspection reports (GIR).


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The

GIR reports have following categories:

There is a space in the bottom for “Remarks”; where whether the roll is acceptable or rejected is specified.

When the fabric is inspected as per the 4 – point system, the defects are marked with different colored stickers for different types of defects as:Red Sticker Weaving Defect

Blue Sticker Processing Defect

Green Sticker Other Defects

Arrow Sticker Centre-Selvedge shade variation.

The fabric is issued for cutting, if both Lab & Audit reports are O.K. However, the cuttings are kept for reference.

INSPECTION INSTRUCTIONS

The width is checked and average width is mentioned. The fold length is checked and the average is mentioned. The reed is checked and +/- 2 threads is acceptable. Center to selvedge color variation is not acceptable. For the bowing level is checked for by the following set acceptance levels:

WIDTH LEVEL

Up to 44 inches 1” acceptable

45 to 60 inches 1.5” acceptable

60 to 72 inches 2” acceptable

After inspection of the roll/ takka is done, if the roll is passed/ rejected, a sticker is put on the respective roll. It contains following information:


IN STICKER ACTUALBALE NO. PIECE NO.

FOLD LENGTH (IN CMS)

WIDTH (IN INCHES)

EPI PPIMETERAGE

THICK THIN SLUBWARP & WEFT

DEFECTSYARN DEFECTS

PENALTY POINTS FOR DEFECTSBOWING LEVEL

(IN INCHES)CS/SS

VARIATIONOTHERS

TOTAL POINTS

PRINTING/DYEING DEFECTS & STAINS

WEAVING DEFECTS

POINTS/100 SQ. YARDS

THAN CLASSIFICATIONACCEPTED BELOW

40 POINTSREJECTED ABOVE 40

POINTS

Receive fabrics

Start

Conduct shrinkage test on minimum 2 bits/bale or minimum 10 bits of consignment

Forward one meter of each consignment for lab test

Verify whether quantity received match with quantity ordered

Inform to stores and prepare goods received note (in case of imported fabric)

Inspection based on four points system. Match bulk with approved dye lot, width of fabric etc.

Name shade lot as ABC

Send to merchant for buyer’s approval

If No

If No If Yes

If Yes

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Tag used:

This sticker is of green color for the pass fabrics and magenta for the rejected fabric rolls or takkas.

MACHINE DETAILS: RAMSONS CHECK MATE

Type R 501Power input 1 Ø , 220 v, 50 HzPower output 3 Ø, 220 v, 50 HzGear motor 1 hp, 100 rpm.Power consumption 0,75 kw


I-BangalorePass fabric

Bale no.- Pc no.-Fabric - Qty- Colour- Width-No. of points- Date- By- Shade-Face side-

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2.6. ACCESSORY STORES DEPARTMENT

Functioning of the Department:

The acceptance of the raw materials or the accessories is generally done in terms of documents

i.e., whatever it may be whether acceptance and revival whenever they are done they are done

according to the documents that have been received from the merchants and also the department

also makes the document for anything they carry out within their roof.

The department first receives a PO copy from the merchants, which the merchants would

have sent it to any one among the three above mentioned supplier types. As soon as the

accessory department comes to know about the date on which they will receive that particular

material they will make a note of it in their ERP that they will be receiving that material and this

is termed as PRE GRN.

Once the material reaches the stores on the prescribed day and date the concerned person

verifies the materials against invoice/ Delivery Challan and packing list which they would have

received from the merchant as already stated.


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After it is confirmed that the received materials is according to the documents then they

carry out a quality inspection and this inspection is carried out irrespective to the type of the

buyer. The company carries this inspection as per AQL standard 1.5 for all the types of goods

received.

AQL quantity chart:

Lot size or quantity being audited Inspect Accept

less than 151 8 0

151-280 20 0

281-500 32 1

501-1200 32 1

1201-3200 50 2

3201-10000 80 3

10001-35000 125 5

35001-150000 200 7

150001-5000000 315 10

500000-above 500 14


Start

Accept & receive materials against documents

Prepare PRE GRN

Verify materials against invoice/ Delivery challan & packing list

Carry out quality & quantity inspection as per AQL 1.5

Allocation of trims based on the nature of the item

Prepare GRN & do the bill entry. The same is forwarded to accounts for payment

SUB-CONTRACTING PRODUCTION ISSUES

Prepare work order

Prepare delivery challan

Identify trims which have been approved by merchants

Prepare delivery challan & keep trims ready to issue to the factories

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After inspecting the materials for the quality as per AQL then the allocation of trims done based

on the nature of the item.

Then the department prepares the GRN according to the materials received and against the

documents received obtained from the merchants and they also do the bill entry. The bills

whatever they enter is been forwarded to the accounts department for the payments and to fulfill

other formalities and a copy of it is also given to the sourcing department in order to inform them

about the materials in-housed.

After this the department has to carry out two processes hand-in-hand they are,

Sub contracting: In this method they prepare the work order and also the delivery

challan and then they keep all the documents and also forward the trims along with the

document for processing.

Production issues: Another thing that they have to do is identify trims which has been

approved by merchants and then prepare the delivery challan and keep the trims ready to

issue to the factories. Materials to be issued after inspected by security against DC as

already mentioned.


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2.7. PLANNING DEPARTMENT


Planning department has a vital role to play in the approval of the order and helps the

merchants to determine the costing of a particular style and they also tell the merchants if the

company is capable of producing the particular style in the given span of time and also helps

them to know the capacity of the production floor.

On receiving the orders, from the merchants they start to decide the date for having the

PP (Pre-Production) meeting with the departments which are directly involved which are,

planning, production and the finishing departments. Then the department will allocate the style

to the unit whichever has the capacity of completing the obtained project based on the line

openings and also buyer’s specifications and the skill of labor required for it.

The planning department then calculates and plans the PCD (Plan Cut Date), Order

Quantity, Sample, order breakup, operation bulletin, etc. with respect to the particular unit in

which that particular order has been placed with.

The planning department takes the approval or sits and conducts a meeting with three

other departments to come to end up giving a proper planning and scheduling dates for the

particular style this will take about 10 – 15 days from the merchandiser approves the order that

has to be followed.

Firstly, they take inputs from IED (Industrial Engineering Department) on productivity

based on the garment details which includes, SAM value of the garment, number of components


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in the garment, type of seams, length of stitches involved in the garment, types of machines

required to finish the garment, any specialized machine is required or not for the manufacturing

of the garment, difficulties involved during stitching of the garment if it is of a complicated style

and structure, the skill level required for the various operations of the garment and the ratio of

the operators with respect to their skill levels required for manufacturing the particular garment

for all the operations all together. Then they finally come to a conclusion about planning entire

style.

Secondly, they confirm the details given to the concerned units i.e., they confirm the

PCD, Order quantity, sample and other similar information from them in consultation with the

GM and FM.

Thirdly, they confirm this consultation if it is the final decision and then they also get a

confirmation from the embroidery, washing and finishing departments if the slots for the dates

on which they have planned for those particular styles is available and then after confirmation

they fix the particular dates on which the style has to reach the embroidery, washing and

finishing departments.

After, a proper output has come from the PP meeting and there are proper confirmation

obtained from the departments the planning department will confirm the order plan with the

merchants and then provide MIS (Management Information System) report to the management

every fortnight, then they prepare a “Batch Commitment Sheet” and this sheet is prepared about

3 – 5 days before the cutting date. This commitment sheet includes the details regarding the

batch that has taken up the job of producing the particular style, the quantity which they are

committed to produce for a day and the labor details (which involves the number of operators

and to which operation they are assigned to and they skill level will also be mentioned). This

sheet will have to be updated once in a hour to know the hourly production of the batch.

Then there exists another kind of a sheet which is made that is a ‘Batch Variance Sheet”,

this sheet is completely based on the Batch Commitment Sheet and in this sheet the updating of

the style in the production floor is done and is given to the merchants on daily basis.

Then the planning department will follow up with the factory till the order is completely

being executed and the entire order quantity is being shipped.

The planning department is responsible for the timely input of the raw materials to the

production floor and they must make sure that none of the days the batch /sewing line must sit

idle with a reason of raw material non-availability.


Start

On receiving the orders, allocate the same to units based on line openings and buyer’s ratings

Provide details to the respective units on PCD, order quantity & sample

Confirm the above details given to concerned units in consultation with GM & FM

Confirm in consultation with embroidery, washing departments

Confirm order plan with merchandising team

Provide MIS report to management every fortnight

Planning follow up with factory till order execution

End

Take inputs from IED on productivity based on garment analysis

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The planning department keeps in constant touch will most of the departments like the

IED, Finishing, Washing, Production, Marketing, etc., the communication within the different

departments is done purely on the mail basis and sometimes through phone calls but any types of

mails regarding the changes in the line of the style or any such modifying sort of a situation then

the department maintains a hard copy of it for the future reference and confirmation.


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2.8 .LABORATORY DEPARTMENT


The laboratory in the factory is equipped with all the necessary devices and instruments

that are required for the testing of both the fabric and the accessory items. But, there are several

tests which the buyer prescribes for which the machineries are not available in the factory for

such tests the factory does not have the right machineries so they send such fabrics or

accessories, which requires some other tests to the external laboratories which are authorized

ones with the buyers and the merchant’s approval.

The laboratory in this unit is the centralized one for the units that are located in

Bangalore city.

The laboratory generally keeps in touch with three major departments. The departments

and their main functions and applications with the laboratory are as follows.

Fabric Sourcing department:

The fabric sourcing department sends the samples of fabrics that have to be ordered later

may be for sampling, pilot or for the bulk production. The sourcing department as soon as it

receives the fabric swatches from the supplier they will select the fabrics which they require for

the particular style and then order for a few meters and then after they receive the small amount

then they sent it to the laboratory along with the tests that are to be carried out for that particular

fabric sample. The list of tests that the sourcing department generally asks for are as follows.

Count

Construction

Colour fastness to washing

Colour fastness to crocking

Dimensional stability to washing

Fabric strength


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Fabric weight

Accessory Stores:

The stores receives the raw materials in-house and after this they will have to do the

sampling process and then they have to make a list of the tests that are supposed to be

carried out for that particular accessories and then they send this to the laboratory. The lists

of accessories and tests that are generally tested are as follows,

Button breaking test

Colored laces and tapes are tested for color fastness

Color fastness test for elastics

Lining fabrics for their dimensional stability

Corrugated box

Merchandising Department:

The merchandising department keeps in touch with the laboratory for the general tests

which has to be carried out on the garment samples which are termed as lab dips. The

garment sample is sent to the laboratory with a list of tests that has to be carried out as

per the buyer specifications.

After the tests are been carried out and the results are received then the garment

fabric samples are sent to the external laboratory for tests to be carried out if the buyer

specifies.

Any of the three departments mentioned above, whenever they have to give a

fabric/accessory/garment sample for the testing purpose to the lab then they generally send it in a

format sheet which includes the style number, buyer name, specifications of the particular

material with respect to the composition, construction, material type, color and other material

related details which will help the lab technicians while carrying out the tests.

The duration which the lab takes to finish the tests depends on several factors like:

Types of tests.

Urgency of the task.

Whether the test has to be carried out internally or externally.

Duration of the tests that has to be carried out.

Time required in getting the proper and the required output.


Start

Fabric Sourcing

End

Accessory stores Merchandising

Test Test

Count

Construction

Color fastness to washing

Color fastness to crocking

Dimensional stability to washing

Fabric Strength

Fabric Weight

Buttons

Color laces and twill tapes

Color fastness test and elastic

Lining fabrics

Dimensional Stability

Corrugated box

Carry on test on fabric and garment as per buyer requirement

On meeting buyer requirement, samples to be sent to external lab to get approval

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Number of samples that has to be tested.

Generally, as soon as the laboratory receives the sample and the specifications from any of the

departments they generally proceed on priority bases. If the results are required very soon and

the tests does not involve any kind of long process then that particular sample is taken first and

then tested and sent back within a day, suppose the sample received involves more

number of tests and tests which involve long processing then such tests takes

time about 2 – 3 days and

then after receiving the

proper output they note

down the readings in the record

and then send it the

concerned

department form where they

have got it.


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2.9. MACHINE MAINTENANCE

Apart from having quality system and the best practices,’ machine maintenance’ is also a

very important are to get ‘quality’ products. Unacceptable quality of products often results ill-

maintained machines. Breakdown and preventive maintenance is primarily aimed toward

reduced downtime and increased life respectively. Proper machine maintenance is also necessary

to avoid casualties at the floor. The function of PREVENTIVE MAINTENANCE includes;

Care of the fittings

Adjusting settings

Oil changing

Graph maintenance

Outward/inward reports

Needle weekly reports.

Machine configuration chart

History card

Needle log cards.

Types of needles and their norms

Needle systems

MACHINE NAME NEEDLE BRAND NUMBER

Single needle lockstitch DBX1


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Single needle chain stitch UYX128/TVX3

Single needle feed DBX1

Double needle lockstitch DPX1

Tandem needle lockstitch UYX128/TVX3

Double needle chain stitch UYX128/TVX3

Over lock DCX1/DCX27

Flat lock UYX128/DVX43

Picotting UOX163/TVX7

Smoking DVKX25/DVX57

Shell stitch LS-151

Pick/ saddle stitch DBX1

Bar tack DPX5/DPX17

Button stitch( shank button) TQX3

Button stitch DPX5/DPX7

Button stitch chain stitch TQX1/TQX7

Button hole DPX5

Zigzag DBX1

Six thread cover seam m/c UOX118


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2.10. CAD ROOM

GARMENT EXPORTS has its own CAD department for varied style garments are made with

help of Optitex software package.

FUNCTIONS OF CAD ROOM

CAD department is responsible for the following functions:

Determining cutting average for costing

Making the most efficient cutting marker

Development and alteration of patterns

Development of size set pattern by grading

Embroidery graphics making

Digitizing the pattern

BASIC WORKFLOW

Firstly the merchandiser sends the following documents to the CAD room:

Approved style sheet and spec sheet containing all the measurements.

Graded measurement spec sheet.

Fabric detail sheet containing information like fabric form ( open roll or folded form),

roll size, GSM, type of fabric, style no, vendor, buyer etc.

Then the work of the CAD room begins.


Receive spec sheet form

Receive patterns from pattern

Digitize pattern to feed in

Pattern correction

GARMENT EXPORTS

2.11. CUTTING ROOM


Pattern grading

Cut ratio planning

Market planning according to the cut plan ratio

Output mini marker to printer

Output marker to plotter

Send to cutting room for cutting

Send to merchandiser for costing

Output to Graphtec plotter

Pattern sent to merchandiser for sampling

WORK FLOW IN CAD

DEPARTMENT

GARMENT EXPORTS

BASIC WORK FLOW

Cutting department receives the order for cutting a garment style from the production

manager. Cutting order is an authorization by the production manager to cut a given amount of

styles, from the spreads. It comes in form of a package file that carries the following details:

Sampling average, weight of garment (base fabric consumption only), and other trims

averages.

Measurement sheet

Design worksheet of the garment

Purchase order

Fabric requisition sheet

CAD mini marker

Marker planning- length of lay etc., size ratio and colors in which the patterns are to be

cut.

ACTUAL CUTTING PROCESS

Solid cutting

Spreading

Spreading is the process of superimposing plies of fabric on a horizontal table in a

manner, which permits these plies to be cut simultaneously into product components

acceptable for assembly. For this, first of all a thin brown paper sheet is spread on the

cutting table using an adhesive tape to prevent the bottom plies from shifting during

cutting. Then the actual spreading process begins with the laying of first fabric layer on

this brown sheet and subsequently the other plies are laid.

The spreading of this lay is done either manually or automatically by the spreading machine.

While manual spreading is time consuming, the use of traveling machine gives faster and more

accurate results. The length of the lay depends upon the quality of the fabric & length of the

marker as specified by the CAD. Whereas the lay height depends upon the thickness of the fabric

and the capacity of the machine.

Cutting


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The lay is cut with the help of electrically powered straight knife cutting machines or

CAM m/c. The machine is moved through the lay following the pattern lines of the

marker and the reciprocating blade cut the pieces of the fabric progressively. Notches are

also added. For smaller components like collars, ribs etc. that need high accuracy, band

knife-cutting machine is used. It is a non-portable cutting device, which cuts the fabric as

it is passed across the blade. The garments are kept aside as and when they are cut.

Spread

Place marker

Cut pattern pieces

Block cutting

Jacquard, stripes and checks cannot be spread with the spreading machine due to

requirements of matching so they are spread manually. Often structures like jacquard and checks

are spread and cut in single number for accuracy. The plies are spread one at a time, matching

the stripes with those in the previous plies. Then block are cut out from this spread for specific

number of pieces. The size of the block is dictated by the CAD room itself, which sends a mini

marker for the cutting of the blocks from the lay and placement of the patterns on the blocks.

Accordingly the cut blocks are manually marked on the top with marking chalk and using the

hard paper patterns. The plies in the block are aligned to the match the stripes and a rough

cutting of the fabric following the markings of the pattern is done. The cut shapes are again

checked for alignment and the stripes superimposed. A final precise cutting occurs to finish the

patterns.

Cutting of striped fabric is a much more time consuming process. The wastage involved is also

more due to cutting in two stages.

Spread

Match


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Mark blocks

Match

Mark patterns

Cut patterns

Match

Final precise shaping of patterns

Sorting and Ticketing

The pieces cut out from the lay are now sorted out size wise. All the components of one

garment size are bought together. It is very important to take care that pieces cut from two

different bolts (bundles) of fabric are not mixed up. This is because within a lot there are bolt-to-

bolt variations in the color shade. The sorted pieces are now ticketed. Ticketing is the process of

marking the cut components for shade matching precision, and sequence identification. The

worker secures one end of the stack and puts on the ticket using ticket gun as he flips over the

cut parts. The ticket contains the size, bundle number and piece number and serves as important

means to track the parts of the garment in the assembly line from start to end.

Cut panel checking

The ticketed panels are now sent to the checking area for inspection of every individual

piece for any objectionable faults. Panels having faults like wrong grain line, inappropriate size,


GARMENT EXPORTS

incorrect shape and any fabric defects like holes, cut, shade variations etc. that cannot are not

within the acceptable quality parameters, are removed from the cut lay. A cutting component

checking report is filled for the total quality cut, checked and approved. The rejected pieces are

sent back and an equal number of fresh panels are separately cut, replaced in the set and ticketed

with the same number as the rejected ones.

Other mendable faults are marked with an alteration sticker and passed on. These will be spotted

out during garment finishing or washing.

Bundling

The checked components of one style and in one size are now clubbed and bundled using

ties. The size of bundle depends upon the requirement of the production plant. Each bundle will

contain pieces of the same style and same size only. The cutting department issues the amount

required by the production department when asked for.

Embroidery

The cutting department is responsible for sending the cut components of a style for

embroidery as stated in the production package. They check for any embroidery and follow up

these departments accordingly. Blocks of panels are sent are sent for embroidery, which are re-

cut after receiving back. To avoid mixing of the patterns the panels of the same size are stitched

together temporarily before dispatch for the embroidery.

Fusing

Fusing is also carried out in the cutting room itself. The parts to be fused are separated

from the bundle. The fusing material (like interlining) is cut according to the size of the

components to be fused. The components along with the cut fusing material are kept between

two papers sheets and the pack is passed through the fusing machine. By means of the

temperature and the pressure fusing takes place at a particular speed and for a particular time.

The pack comes out at the other end on the conveyors and the pieces are removed and re

bundled.

Length of spreading table 40 meter

Width of spreading table 6 feet(72”)

Height of spreading table 3 feet(36”)


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Table top type Plain, card board type

Spreading mode face one way, nap one way

No of clamps 14

Two air channels on the bottom side of the table surface, along with 12 air nozzles per

square meter.

Five blow motors per table, each supplying air to the particular zone of the table.


Cutting package from production

manager

Acquire fabric from fabric store

Cut sample to check

Require Checking

GARMENT EXPORTS

Yes

No

Yes

NO

No


Cut for initial size set

Assemble and check

Require changes

Issue job order

Bulk cutting

Sorting

Cut plan

Bundling

Issue

Send to CAD for Change

Receive changed pattern from CAD

WORK FLOW IN CUTTING

DEPARTMENT

GARMENT EXPORTS

2.12. PRODUCTION DEPARTMENT


The production floor does production in two types, once during pilot production where

they have to produce about 150 – 200 garments for the new style this will take about 40 – 55

days.

The production floor will receive the details like,

the style or the garment,

number of operators required,

the batch for which the style has to be installed,

any extra kinds of machines that are to be used for the particular style,

target for each day

Breakup of the production quantity.

After receiving all these details they send a request for the cut parts from the cutting and

sorting section and the request is sent to the accessory stores for all the accessories that are

required for the particular style then they start the production for the new style.

Before starting the proper production the production floor does a process of batch-setting

for the floor which is training the operators for the new style that has to be produced bulk, this

teaching session will go on for about 3 – 4 days maximum. After this batch setting process the

production for the next day starts with a smaller commitment i.e., may be for 50 pieces for the

entire day and then the production gradually increases from 50 – 100 – 150 and so on, this will

make the operators learn slowly and precisely about the processes that has to be carried out for

the particular style.

Once the cut parts is received from the cutting and sorting section then the parts are

prepared and assembled according to the line that is planned. After the assembling of the parts is

done then there will be a line checking, where the shade matching and the measurements are

checked and sent.

During the process of garment making there exists two types of checking, they are

In-process checking.

Endline checking. – Here there exists both AQL audit and normal checking.


GARMENT EXPORTS

The garment making is divided into three different stages and at these three stages the checking

is done.

The flow of material in the production floor is through the bundle system and each

operator gets a bundle containing similar pieces and there will be about 15 – 20 pieces in each

bundle and the operator completely finishes the job and sends it to the next operator to do the

next operation on them. Each bundle will contain same component of different garments. The

movement of the materials within the operators in the batch/line is generally zig – zag motion

which is followed. The checking person will be present at a position where the garment is

partially finished and it is as mentioned checked thrice in the line and sometimes more than three

and this depends on the buyer as well as the number of components present in the garment.

The supervisor plays a vital role in the production floor. He/she manages the entire batch

which is been allocated to them and they have the following functions to perform,

1. They have to convey the proper stitching method to the operators.

2. Guide the operators when they face difficulty in making an operation and teach them

the most suitable and an easy method of performing the task.

3. Check if the entire operator in the batch/line is busy with the work being allocated to

them.

4. If the operator does not have any material to work on then the supervisor has to get

him/her their material and ask them to work.

5. Complain the production managers if the operators are not performing their best.

6. Have to maintain a proper communication between the operators and the management.

7. Should be in a position to tell the manager about each operator’s skill level whenever

asked for.

8. When any operator is on leave then the supervisor has to make sure who can be a

better person to fit into that vacant place.

9. At times the supervisor himself sits and performs the operation if necessary.

10. The supervisor should be in good terms with all the operators by having a friendly

approach to them and also must make sure that none of them create any trouble for the

factory at any time.

The production managers help the planning department during planning or allocating a particular

line for the style by telling them the capacity of the line and also telling them about the skills of

the operators.


Start

Bulk Production

Cut parts received from cutting

End line checking & AQL audit

Assembly

Sewing process begins

Button & button hole/ Bar tack

Rough checking

Ironing

Final checking

Tagging

Packing

FSA Audit

Measurement checking

Auditing by buyer QA

Truck out End

In-Line checking

Washing

GARMENT EXPORTS


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2.13. IED DEPARTMENT


The IED department has to work with many other departments as this department gives

the entire idea of the garment construction and the thread and trims consumption criteria,

operators skill level categorization and other related aspects hence they play a vital role in

determining the cost of producing a single piece of the garment and they also calculate the cost

of the factory for that particular style of garment.

The different departments with which the IED works are as follows.

The IED department helps the planning department to know the time required for the production

of that particular style of the garment by calculating the SAM value for it and they also help in

knowing the capacity of the factory based on which the planning department takes a decision if

they have to proceed with the item or no.

The IED calculates the SAM value for the garment, calculates the productivity of the

given style for the initial costing and also calculates or counts the accessories consumption by

the style and gives all these details to the merchandising department for the costing purpose

because the entire costing criteria depends on these aspects and the IED also gives the merchants

suggestions regarding the reduction of the cost of manufacturing the garment by modifying any

of the steps and the method of doing it.

The IED people using the (GSD) General Sewing Data prepare the style bulletin which

includes the different types of seams and stitches that has to be done for the garment and it also

includes the length of the seams and the types of stitches that has to be carried out at different

places of the garment as per the buyers specifications and approval. Types of thread (which is the

TEX), area of placement of the trims and accessories and its location different kinds of labels

that are supposed to be placed, the criteria under which the finished garment has to be checked,

the times at which the inspection has to be carried out will also be mentioned in the style

bulletin, this bulletin will be similar to the Tech Pack but contains more technical data than that.

This department will analyze and estimate the manpower and their skill level which is

required for the production of the garment, they also set a target to the batch for an hour, for a

shift and for a month which will help them to maintain their outputs and also helps in timely

completion of the order or sometimes earlier. They will also give the target to each operator

based on his/her capacity and skill in order to help them finish their piece of work on time and

also maintain the quality of their work.


GARMENT EXPORTS

After setting the targets for a batch and also for each operator then they will calculate the

efficiency. This efficiency is purely based on the daily output of the batch as well as the single

operator and then they come up with the monthly output by the particular batch.

This department maintains a file which is the DPR (Daily Production Report), in this

report they update the batch number, style/item number, actual output, committed output, SAM

value of the garment (both actual and that particular days SAM value), total production till date,

average efficiency of the batch till date, peak efficiency achieved, if the company was working

that day or not, if there was a delay of production then the reason behind it, information about

the batch setting prior to the mass production, etc., all this will be mentioned in this DPR.

Based on the operator’s performance which would have been observed for a specified

period of time, the department will allocate a grade to the operator which is as follows,

Skill type Grade

A Highly skilled

B Skilled

C Semi skilled

The operators for each batch are taken in a ratio of,

20% - Highly Skilled

25% - Skilled

55% - Semi skilled

This is done irrespective to any style and buyer and the complication of the style.

A record is maintained in which the skills of operators are updated on timely bases.

Because of maintaining this record they keep in track of the operator’s skill and his efficiency,

working method and after a particular span of time they update the record.

Suppose a new operator joins and he is completely unaware of stitching then a training

for about 45 – 50 days is given to him/her and then based on their learning and grasping capacity

a grade is been allocated to them primarily. Suppose the operator/new employee knows or has a

previous work experience in a garment industry then he is just been asked about his job which

he/she would have done in the previous factory and then he/she is just given an hour’s test to

know his skills and then grade is been allocated.

Everyday the IED team there will be a meeting where in which they speak about the

maintenance of efficiency of the batch in the production floor. They also conduct a production


Start

Training, selection & development

Production Dept. Systems development

Selection of operators, helpers, supervisors, checkers, QC, etc.

Prepare O.B

Hourly production tracking

Line balancing

Capacity study

Skill matrix Batch layout Style bulletin

Batch performanc

e

End

Efficiency calculation

Pre-prod. activities

Calculate accessories consumption

GARMENT EXPORTS

review meetings with the operation team in which they discuss about the line and the operation

carried out in the batch suppose the previously planned flow is not giving the estimated

efficiency and output then they will think of changing the line plan and review it and later follow

the right one.

During batch setting a model of the sewing line or batch is planned in the following manner as

shown in the picture on a planning table carrying Velcro and small plastic boards which

represent the machines.


GARMENT EXPORTS

TIME STUDY AND ELEMENTAL BREAKDOWN WAS STUDIED FOR THE

FOLLOWING STYLE:

Style NO.2 : FL130204T

Description : Women’s 100% Cotton Casual full sleeve shirt

Buyer :Walmart

Brand : Faded Glory

Item No : H025, H027

Colors : Rally Blue, Arctic White, Berry Combo, Navy Combo

Sizes : S, M, L, XL, XXL


GARMENT EXPORTS

SNOoperation description smv opr

ACT time in min

SAM trgt in pcs

SAM trgt in pcs M/C type

85% 100% 85% 1 collar marking 0.45 N 0.53 133 113 TABLE2 clr run st 0.6 Y 0.71 100 85 SNLS UBT3 clr trim for run stitch 0.35 Y 0.41 171 146 SNLS EC4 clr clip & turn with iron 0.48 N 0.56 125 106 TABLE5 clr edge st 0.42 Y 0.49 143 121 SNLS UBT

6clr band iron

0.38 N 0.45158

134IRON

TABLE7 satin tape attach to NB 0.35 Y 0.41 171 146 SNLS UBT8 clr band att to top clr 0.51 Y 0.60 118 100 SNLS UBT9 clr peak ready 0.55 Y 0.65 109 93 SNLS EC

10 clr ready trim & mark 0.35 Y 0.41 171 146 SNLS EC

11clr peak turn & crease

0.57 N 0.67105

89IRON

TABLE12 cuff hem 0.55 Y 0.65 109 93 SNLS UBT13 piping atach to cuff 0.607 Y 0.71 99 84 SNLS UBT14 cuff run st 0.95 Y 1.12 63 54 SNLS EC

15clr peak turn &iron

0.54 N 0.64111

94IRON

TABLE16 slv open 0.38 N 0.45 158 134 TABLE17 slv snall plt att(folder) 0.52 Y 0.61 115 98 SNLS UBT18 slv tack at plkt 0.35 Y 0.41 171 146 SNLS UBT

19slvslve big plkt iron

0.72 N 0.8583

71IRON

TABLE20 slv big plkt attch 0.45 Y 0.53 133 113 SNLS UBT21 slve big plkt dia finish 0.85 Y 1.00 71 60 SNLS UBT22 back panel box pleat 0.42 Y 0.49 143 121 SNLS UBT23 back yoke att 0.45 Y 0.53 133 113 SNLS UBT24 back yoke top st 0.4 Y 0.47 150 128 SNLS UBT

25back patch fab iron

0.35 N 0.41171

146IRON

TABLE26 label att to back patch fab 0.5 Y 0.59 120 102 SNLS UBT27 patch fab att to back yoke 0.6 Y 0.71 100 85 SNLS UBT

28frnt bust dart st with side close

1.1 Y 1.2955

46 SNLS UBT


GARMENT EXPORTS 29 frnt pckt hem with trim 0.35 Y 0.41 171 146 SNLS UBT

30frnt pckt iron

0.6 N 0.71100

85IRON

TABLE31 frnt pckt att mark and set 0.65 N 0.76 92 78 TABLE32 frnt pckt att 0.72 Y 0.85 83 71 SNLS UBT33 bottom btn plkt hem (folder) 0.48 Y 0.56 125 106 SNLS UBT34 B/H plkt att (kansai) 0.66 Y 0.78 91 77 SNLS UBT35 frnt back set(slv, clr & cuff) 1.33 N 1.56 45 38 TABLE36 shoulder att 0.65 Y 0.76 92 78 SNLS UBT37 shoulder top st 0.48 Y 0.56 125 106 SNLS UBT38 clr att 0.65 Y 0.76 92 78 SNLS UBT39 clr finish uptosatin tape 0.65 Y 0.76 92 78 SNLS UBT40 clr finish above satin tape 0.35 Y 0.41 171 146 SNLS UBT41 slv tack 0.4 Y 0.47 150 128 SNLS UBT42 guesset & btm side edge st 0.659 Y 0.78 91 77 SNLS UBT43 sle O/L&btm gusset O/L 1.2 Y 1.41 50 43 5T O/L44 slv top st &gusset T/S 1.08 Y 1.27 56 47 DNLS45 side seam att wth W/C label 0.95 Y 1.12 63 54 SNLS UBT46 side seam O/L 0.68 Y 0.80 88 75 5T O/L47 side seam top st 1.15 Y 1.35 52 44 FOA48 pleat making 0.68 Y 0.80 88 75 SNLS UBT49 cuff att 0.655 Y 0.77 92 78 SNLS UBT50 cuff finish 0.69 Y 0.81 87 74 SNLS UBT51 cufftop st 0.68 Y 0.80 88 75 SNLS UBT52 btm stay st 0.35 Y 0.41 171 146 SNLS UBT53 btm hem 0.85 Y 1.00 71 60 SNLS UBT54 Total 31.89 Y 37.52

TOTAL SAM 31.89 37.52 OPERATOR SAM 25.34 29.81 NON-OPERATOR SAM 6.55 7.71


GARMENT EXPORTS

2.14. EMBROIDERY DEPARTMENT


The embroidery section is a department which comes into picture only when the

particular style demands. The embroidery section is the centralized and the second largest

embroidery unit in Asia.

The embroidery section receives the garment, style and the embroidery details from

the merchandisers in the form of the hard copy format which is generally maintained in

company, the department will maintain the file for all the formats received and they will also

get a sample of the garment on which the embroidery has been already done and they will use

this as their reference sample / piece.

As soon as the department receives the details they check the design that has to be

done and they scan the design using the CAD software and then they digitize the design and

check for the number of stitches involved, area the design has to cover, the style of the stitch

involved for the design, thread colours required, thread tex, starting point of the design on the

garment while performing the operation etc., all these things are calculated and tabulated in

the softcopy format and give to the merchandiser and after an approval from them they start

the further operation .

After the design has been finalized then they do the embroidery for the samples that

has to be produced to the buyer, these samples are done for about 6 – 7 garments and it is

something done against the actual or exact order quantity. After the samples have been

generated then they conduct the pilot run in the embroidery section.

Once the order has been confirmed and the exact order quantity that has to be

produced is known then they start the bulk production during the production the embroidery

action on the garment is done in two ways one is after the entire garment has been sewn and

the other case is after the garment panels has been cut and before sewing them into a

complete garment.

The embroidery section receives the garments from the sewing floor or from the

cutting department and then they start their embroidery process.

After the embroidery is been done for the first set of the garment or the cut parts

received then they send them to the trimming and the checking section for every machine

there are operators for this process.


Start

Receive designs from the merchant

Scan and punch design

Strike- off of design

Samples to be done against orders

Conduct pilot run of the styles

Start bulk production

Trimming & checking

Packing

Delivery

Style reconciliation

End

GARMENT EXPORTS

The operators are provided with hearing aids in this department because of the

maximum noise that is been produced by the machines.


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2.15. WASHING DEPARTMENT


Once the garment has been finished with all the operations then they are sent to the

washing department for the washing or finishing that has to be done for that particular style

according to the buyers specifications and hence it plays a vital role in the final feel and the

texture of the garment which has to match the specifications of the buyer 100%.

The merchandiser after getting the sample done, they bring the original sample that

will be sent to the merchants by the buyer and they will also get the sample done in the

factory and then they show both the samples and the specifications and ask the washing

department to match the factory sample with the buyer sent sample with respect to the feel

and the texture, for this the merchandiser himself/herself comes to the washing department in

case of samples.

The washing unit will now check the garment for the different aspects like,

Type of the material.

The texture that is under demand.

The feel and look of the garment under demand.

Types of labels that are been used in the garment.

Dye stuffs used for the garment (if it is a coloured fabric).

Dye / ink used in the labels that are being attached to the garment.

Types of threads used for in sewing.

Types of chemicals that should be used to get the desired finish.

The after effects of those chemicals on the fabric.

The sensitivity criteria of the fabric.

The wet processes that has to be carried out to get the end product.

The sequence of the processes.

Temperature at which the garment has to be treated.

Duration of the treatment.

After coming to a conclusion of what recipe has to be used for the garment they start treating

the garments in the desired sequence.


GARMENT EXPORTS

At first they segregate the garments based on shade wise, job wise and unit wise, suppose the

garments which are white in colour and which have to be treated in the similar manner then

such styles are clubbed together irrespective of their styles.

After this segregation washing is carried out as per the buyer’s specifications. In this

washing there are two types.

1. Wet processing

2. Dry processing

First the dry processing is carried out and then the wet processing is been followed. In the dry

processing there are four different types they are,

1. Grinding

2. Ripping or Blowout

3. Sandblasting

4. Crinkling

After the dry processing the next main thing which has to be done is wet processing. Wet

processing involves mainly two types, they are

1. Dyeing: this is mainly done using two types of dyes which are reactive dyes and

pigment dyes, these two dyes are more commonly used in practice and sometimes the

usage of the dyes depends on the fabric and the buyer demands and requirements.

2. Washing process: After dyeing is finished the fabrics or the garments are taken to the

washing process. There are different types of washing procedures involved and they

are classified as follows,

Normal wash/ water wash / dip and dry

Softener wash

Desize wash

Enzyme wash

Stone enzyme wash

Rubber ball wash

Denim wash

Bleach wash

Tinting/ T- staining

Sometimes it so happens that some styles / garments do not demand for dyeing so at such

situations they are sent directly to the washing process from the dry processing stage or else

the original procedure that is followed in the company is that first the garments are sent to the


Start

Receipt of goods from different units

Segregation (JO wise, unit wise, shade wise)

WashingAs per buyer spec

GARMENT EXPORTS

dry processing and then from there to the wet processing where it is first sent to the dyeing

and then to the washing process.

After the entire process is done then it is followed by the hydro extraction where in

which a specified lot of garments are put into the hydro extracting machine depending on the

tumbler capacity and then the excess of water which had accumulated in the previous stages

will be extracted by compressing the garment with the optimum pressure that has to be used

for that particular style / garment.

Then the garments are dried using the drier. After the garments are dried they are

inspected by the inspection people and the inspection here is random it does not involve any

organized way, any garment from the entire lot is randomly selected and inspected according

to the criteria that will be specified to them by the merchandiser.

Once the inspection is over the garments are sent to the finishing and the packing

section or sometimes if the garments has to be attached with some accessories or trims after

the washing and dyeing stages then such styles are sent to the production floor to finish the

left over job on them and then sent to the finishing and the packing department.

The washing department in this unit (Unit – 7) is the centralized one for the units

located in Bangalore and its surrounding areas so the washing unit will be receiving the

garments from different units for the washing purposes hence this department has to keep in

track of the garments, quantity of the garments received, processes that has to be carried out

for them, the stage in which they are, duration required for the process to be finished for the

garments according to the types of the washes prescribed for them, etc., hence this

department maintains a record in which they fill in the details of the garment style number,

PO number, item number, quantity received and the day and date of recieval. The department

maintains these details both in the soft as well as in the hard copy format. The department

will enter the details in the ERP. Whenever the washing unit receives or delivers the garment

lot from the different units then the communication is mainly through the e-mails and also

phone calls.


GARMENT EXPORTS

2.16. QUALITY ASSURANCE DEPARTMENT


Quality is the major criteria for any product and the same rule applied even to

garment industries also. In order to maintain quality the quality assurance departments has


GARMENT EXPORTS

split up their job into different stages of manufacturing and there are classified into four

major groups which are as follows.

Pre-production audit:

In this stage auditing is mainly done for the stages which come before the

production and that is the sampling stage. Here the auditing is done for all samples

and precisely for the size set samples and also for the pilot production garments. The

size set samples are given importance to because they are mainly asked by the buyer

for checking the dimensions of the garment hence an extra stress is given to these

samples and the auditing for them is mainly done for the measurements of the

garment and the measurements are checked at all the critical areas in the garment.

For example: if it is a trouser then the measurements are checked at the areas like the

length of the trouser, waist measurements, inseam measurements, the distance of the

belt loops, etc.,

For the pilot run production also the garments are checked for the dimensions

and also for the placement of the accessories and trims for example, the label

attachment areas, etc.,

Cutting audit:

In the cutting stage, which is the critical stage of the garment production the

auditing is further divided into many other departments which are,

1. Spreading

2. Relay cut

3. Band knife

4. Shade

5. Hard pattern

Sewing audit:

In sewing process the inspection is done in two areas, they are

1. In – line audit:

Here the garments are checked during their different stages of

manufacturing. Here the entire manufacturing process for a particular garment

is split into the required number of parts may be two – three and then at the


GARMENT EXPORTS

end of each stage the inspection is carried out by the person whose main job is

auditing.

For example if the garment that is being manufactured is a shirt then the entire

manufacturing process is broken down into stages like, the finish of front,

finish if back, sleeve attach finish and then the entire shirt. In this case the

shirt is being checked at each stage and the auditing personnel will be

provided by certain specifications and also the tolerance limits based on which

he checks the garment. Here every single garment is checked.

2. End – line audit:

Here the garments are checked after the entire process is over and the

specifications are mainly based on the dimensions of the garment at the critical

positions and then the placements of the labels.

Button/button hole :

In this area the auditing is mainly done by the operator himself as the

job is limited, it is just button attachment that has to be done and the operator

does it himself as and when he finishes his part of the job with the garment

and the operator will be given or taught about the specifications for the

garment to attach the button/ making the button holes.

After the auditing is done in each and every stage the defects, findings and other related

information will be recorded by the concerned departments in their own formats and they will

be sent to the respective departments for rectification

2.17. FINISHING DEPARTMENT



GARMENT EXPORTS

The finishing department is the department which comes after all the departments and

it plays an equally important role in the final appearance of the garment. This department

includes majorly of the following steps,

Trimming:

This involves the removal of the extra threads from the garment at the stitched areas.

Inspection:

The inspection carried out here is according to the AQL 2.5 system and sometimes it

depends on the buyer also i.e., if the buyer emphasizes for a 100% inspection then the

company has to do as specified.

Semi – pressing:

This happens when a garment is difficult to inspect in the crushes manner as it comes

from the washing department hence, they do a partial pressing for the garments and

then inspect it and trim it and then send it to the complete pressing process.

Pressing:

The pressing is done after the garment has been completely inspected and the

garments are pressed on the basis of how they will be folded during packing.

Tagging section:

Once the garments are been done with the inspection and complete pressing then they

are sent for tagging the labels and the labels include the size labels, price tags and

miscellaneous labels if any required by the buyer. Once the tagging is done the

garments are folded according to the buyer’s specification and also they are either

folded plainly or sometimes they are folded after they are put to the hangers as per the

buyer’s specifications again.

The packing material, PCB details, number of size ratios that are supposed to

be put in are all suggested by the buyer and the packing is done according to these

specifications.

Packing:

The packing is always done in the carton boxes and there are several criteria for the

packing of the garments they are as follows,

There are generally two kinds of packing the garment,


GARMENT EXPORTS

1. The garment is individually packed/wrapped in the poly bag whose design will

be specified by the buyer i.e., either with the hanger attached or plain poly bag

packing and then the entire garments (as per the packing criteria) is arranged

in the carton box.

2. The other method is that the garments are just folded and arranged in the

carton boxes without putting them in the poly bag.

The packing criteria followed in each carton box as already mentioned is done in different

ways which is as follows,

Solid Packing:

In this method of packing, the carton box will include garments of single

colour and same size.

For example, 20 shirts of a similar colour say navy blue and the size say S will

be put in one carton box.

Ratio Packing:

In this method the carton box includes garments of same colour but of

different sizes according to the ratio.

For example, S : M : L : XL = 5 : 7 : 7 : 5.

Mixed Packing:

In this method the carton box includes garments of different colours but of

same size or garments with different colours and different sizes in a particular ratio

form.

After the packing is done the garments are kept in the godown/stores until the buyer sends the

buyer QC for the inspection purpose before delivering them and once the QC arrives he will

check them according to the 2.5 AQL level and then see if the garments has to be accepted or

rejected.


garment industry departments

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