gastronomic tourism in rural areas of vojvodina (north ... · (north serbia) – dispersion,...

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( Received 12 May 2018; Accepted 25 May 2018; Date of Publication 25 May 2018 )

WSN 100 (2018) 124-134 EISSN 2392-2192

Gastronomic tourism in rural areas of Vojvodina (North Serbia) – Dispersion, condition and offer

of authentic restaurants “messuages”

B. Kalenjuka, B. Cvetkovićb, D. Tešanovićc, M. Banjacd

Department of Geography, Tourism and Hotel Management, Faculty of Sciences, University of Novi Sad, Trg Dositeja Obradovića 3, 21000 Novi Sad, Serbia

a-dE-mail address: [email protected] , [email protected] , [email protected] , [email protected]

ABSTRACT

The food offer is the best reflection of how preserved culture and tradition of peoples who

inhabit specific areas are. In Vojvodina, they are most diverse in messuages (sr. “salaš”) (rural farm

houses where people who were engaged in agriculture and cattle-breeding started living more than a

century ago). Isolated from the modern world, messuages have nowadays gained popularity, and are

often called the symbols of Pannonian Plain. This paper will try to show the dispersion, significance

and possibilities of old Vojvodina households which were turned into very popular hospitality

facilities with national and traditional food, and thus contributed to gastronomic tourism and rural

development, as well as the economy of the region. What is even more valuable besides the preserved

setting are preserved authentic tastes, local cuisine, mixture of influence of people who inhabited or

who still inhabit this region, such as Hungarians, Slovaks, Serbs, Bosniaks, Ruthenians, Germans and

other nations.

Keywords: Gastronomic tourism, Food, Villages, Rural tourism, Vojvodina, Serbia

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World Scientific News 100 (2018) 124-134

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1. INTRODUCTION

The most acceptable and cited definition of gastronomic tourism as a selective form of

tourist movement was produced by Hall and Mitchell (2006) who stated that it is about tourist

movement which is realized by visiting and tasting at primary and secondary food and

beverages producers, by attaining food and drink manifestations and by consuming authentic

specialties in different hospitality facilities. Here we talk about a more and more popular form

of tourist movement (Kalenjuk, 2014; Kalenjuk, 2017a) in which local and authentic food and

drink play a significant role in rural environments (Baum, 2011; Kalenjuk et al., 2012a;

Đerčan et al., 2017).

Vojvodina is a multicultural region where a large number of cuisines is mixed together

(Kalenjuk et al., 2017), a mixture of ethnic groups with their gastronomic characteristics has

influenced that it has become a favorable destination for the development of gastronomic

tourism. Numerous tourist organizations have recognized the potentials of authentic food and

have included them in their offer, developing a form of tourism, which is known worldwide

as food tourism (Boniface, 2003), culinary (Wolf, 2006; Ignatov & Smith, 2006), tasting

(Boniface, 2003) and gourmet tourism (Kalenjuk, 2017b).

The culture of nutrition is a reflection of complex living conditions and the influence of

numerous factors of food culture which differs from one village to the other, even from one

household to the other (Stojanović & Čerović, 2008). Messuages used to be summer

dwellings of plowmen, whereas today most of these objects have been turned into hospitality

facilities which are recognizable by tambura players, hospitality, rich and tasty dishes

(Tešanović et al., 2009).

Demirovic (2012) clearly states that messuages represent an earlier way of living and

working in agriculture, that is, a particular social phenomenon in the Pannonian region and

they symbolize a former struggle of peasants in a desert. Under the term „messuage we

understand a house for dwelling with economy buildings and infield, where people constantly

or occasionally llive, and whose existence is based upon their own agricultural production“

(Demirović, 2012).

The autonomous region of Vojvodina occupies an area of 21,614 square kilometers with

1,779,128 ha of agricultural land. According to the 2013 census it is inhabited by 1,912,095

people (Statistical Yearbook of the Republic of Serbia, 2014) in 467 settlements in 45

municipalities, of which 52 are towns, and the rest of 415 are rural settlements where 44.4%

of the total population live (The census of population, households and dwellings in the

Republic of Serbia, 2011), which gives importance to activation of food in the function of

tourism. According to the research conducted by Božin (2018) there is a total of 65 messuages

in the territory of Vojvodina, which have been transformed from old abandoned country

households into hospitality facilities for providing food and drink, and even accommodation

services.

The subject of this paper is to show dispersion, importance and possibilities of old

Vojvodina households in villages which have been transformed into very popular hospitality

facilities of national and traditional food thus contributing to the rural development and

economy of the region.


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2. ADVANTAGES OF GASTRONOMIC TOURISM FOR THE DEVELOPMENT

OF RURAL AREAS AND VICE VERSA

Thanks to the dynamic historical events combined with the fertile plain, rural areas of

Vojvodina represent places with possibly the most preserved gastronomic tradition and

authenticity (Banjac et al., 2016). Here, tourism should be observed as an economic branch

with important social and economic functions which contributes to highlighting and better

evaluation of agricultural environment (Henderson, 2004; Quan & Wang, 2004; Gagic et al.,

2014). Through gastronomy which has been preserved in villages, tourists get acquainted with

the culture and traditions of the visited region, as well as characteristic tastes and scents which

they take with them in the form of authentic experiences.

Studies have shown that tourism workers still haven’t sufficiently developed awareness

of the advantages of authentic and local food on the development of the region (Kalenjuk et

al., 2013a; Kalenjuk et al., 2013b). In the previous development policies and concepts

regarding the development of food of rural population and tourists, the appropriate

developmental role, opposed to its basic role, wasn’t given (Kalenjuk et al., 2011).

3. THE CONDITION AND PERSPECTIVES OF VOJVODINA MESSUAGES

In rural areas such as messuages as hospitality and tourism facilities today, food has

become recognized worldwide as a part of (Hall & Mitchell, 2001) local culture; tourism

promotion; components of local agricultural and economic development, and a regional factor

influenced by the patterns of consumption and observed desire of tourists, which is very

important (Kalenjuk et al., 2011).

Messuages in Vojvodina are grouped according to the urban environments in the

vicinity of which they are located, and being such they are recognized by tourists. They are

grouped in the following way:

Sombor messuages (rural areas around the town of Sombor) – besides comfortable

houses and hospitality facilities, messuages with no water and power supply are

offered. which provide a completely authentic experience and are equipped with old,

traditional furniture;

Cenej messuages (messuages around Novi Sad) – rich and well-developed agriculture

of this are has provided a large number of different messuages and gastronomic

specialties;

Becej messuages (around Subotica) in the north part of Backa are characteristic

because they were formed at the site of former medieval villages (Demirović &

Njegovan, 2014).

A good side of this selective form of tourism is that gastronomic destinations are

usually available throughout the year, at any time of the day and in all weather conditions

(Richards, 2002), which gives it a special economic advantage. With the aim of developing

food as an attraction of the rural environment, four recommendations are given (Quan &

Wang, 2004):


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promoting gastronomy of certain rural areas through hospitality food and drink offers;

turning food products into main tourist attractions (authentic local specialties, cheeses,

meats, products etc), then schools for preparing local specialties and selling souvenirs,

which can also be in the form of food (homemade cheese, prosciutto, jam)

food of a destination can be a part of a larger tourism event (tourist food event) and

food can be used to improve the attractiveness of a destination through visiting active

country households, messuages – restaurants, even small food producers and closed

facilities which have been converted into country food museums (e.g. Bread museum

in Pecinci).

As already mentioned, there are 65 registered messuages in Vojvodina, which try to

preserve an authentic, traditional spirit and provide enjoyment with local food and drink. In

Vojvodina, they are synonymous with good food and good time. A list of some of the

messuages follows, and dispersion of only a half is shown in Figure 1

(http://www.salasi.info/sr/pocetna).

Many messuages have got their names after last names of their first owners, some were

named after nicknames of their present owners, or even lots where they are situated, and there

are those which were given new names after certain characteristics ( the rabbit’s messuage,

deer, chubby, thick shade, messuage of heart, green court, stork’s messuage, and similar),

among messuages with authentic food offer which attracts gastronomic tourists we should

highlight: Salaš 137, Salaš Čuvardić, Our Salaš Sombor, Mitin Salaš, Majkin Salaš, Rokin

Salaš, Katai Salaš, Salaš Jelen, Zekin Salaš, Salaš Stremen, Salaš Volić, Salaš 84, Our Salaš

325, Salaš Capriolo, Dida Hornjakov, Babin Salaš, Salaš Djeram, Cvetni Salaš, Perkov Salaš,

Salaš Debeli Lad, Lekin Salaš, Salaš Jakšić, Salaš from the heart, Salaš Tatić, Salaš Curan,

Rodin Salaš, Salaš Đorđević, Salaš Stojšić, Salaš Ruža Majur, Pajin Salaš, Cvejin Salaš,

Brkin Salaš, Bucin Salaš, Salaš šumski čardak, Salaš Bošnjak, Salaš Zeleni Dvor, Salaš

Kucora (http://www.salasi.info/sr/pocetna) and many other equally good and recognizable.

Examples of authenticity of the environment of the first opened messuage in Vojvodina, Salaš

137 is shown in Figures 2 and 3, and some of their specialties are shown in Figure 4.

4. GASTRONOMIC IDENTITY OF VOJVODINA MESSUAGES

Visitors of hospitality messuages can taste authentic traditional dishes such as

guineafowl soup, pheasant, goose and even pigeon soup, as well as dished of roast, breaded or

stewed meat combined with stews and salads, though which we can taste the influences of

ancestors. The most popular dishes are: goulash, pepper stew, beans, stuffed peppers, sarma,

tomato and pepper stew etc. (Tešanović et al., 2009).

Desserts as well as most dishes in Vojvodina are a mixture of influences of Germany,

Austria, Hungary and other ethic groups which inhabit this region. One should taste different

dessert such as: strudels, doughnuts, poppy noodles, gomboces, pies and similar. Vojvodina

cuisine is famous for leavened dough cakes, of which strudels are the most famous. Most

often used fillings for strudels are: poppy, walnuts, fruit jam, carob, pumkin and sour cherries.

A village Novo Milosevo is famous for this authentic dessert and Strudlijada event, where a

http://www.salasi.info/sr/pocetna



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strudel for the Guiness Book of Records was made in 2008. The strudel was 13 meters and 95

centimeters long (Kalenjuk et al., 2012b).

Figure 1. Dispersity of a half of Vojvodina messuages (source: http://www.salasi.info/sr/pocetna)

In the variety of desserts in Vojvodina, gugelhupf is only one, famous as a dessert of

aristocracy. The gugelhupf is a unique, old cake which originates in German cuisine. It can be

recognized by its specific shape, and is often described as a “cake with a hole”. The wine

gugelhupf or bermet gugelhupf is a specialty prepared in combination with red bermet, local

sweet aromatic wine, figs and chocolate (Kalenjuk, 2017b).

After meat dishes, the most important dishes for residents of Vojvodina are pastry

dishes. With a reason! The fertile plain has enabled the growth of grain thus serving at a table

numerous leavened and unleavened breads and pastries. Bread is often eaten only with lard

spreading and seasoned with cayenne pepper or jam, but here we also have: Vojvodina style

bread, flat bread, buns, rolls, muffins with cracklings or cheese, salt sticks, Ukrainian pirogs,



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cabbage rolls and pies. Thick noodles are served with goulash, perkelt or pepper stew,

whereas thin noodles, dumplings and dough pellets are ingredients of homemade soups.

To get acquainted with and experience rural Vojvodina from the most authentic

perspective is possible in messuages by the river, unique hospitality facilities. Traditional

hospitality facilities are situated on the banks of the Danube and the Tisa rivers, in the near or

farther area around inhabited places. According to the structure and quality of authentic

gastronomic offer, environment and atmosphere with music of tambura players, visitors are

offered specialties such as: fish baked on a disk harrow or grill, fish chowder, fish and pepper

stew with dumplings or homemade noodles prepared in fish pots on wood, smoked river fish,

and many other dishes (Kalenjuk et al., 2017a).

Figure 2. The exterior of Salaš 137 (source: http://salas137.rs)

Abundance of forest in Vojvodina has enabled an offer of game dishes. Therefore there

are numerous hunting specialties in the gastronomic heritage of Vojvodina: venison pepper

stew prepared with red wine, wild boar goulash with white wine and homemade smoked

sausages, partridges stuffed with goose liver, wild duck in cream sauce, Vojvodina style

hunting steak and many other dishes.

The most authentic fruit brandy is mulberry brandy, and its production dates back in the

period of Maria Theresa when all important roads were mulberry avenues. Mulberry has an

important spiritual value, and one of the older trees is located in Orlovat village and is

protected by the government. Besides mulberry brandy, brandies which are characteristic of

http://salas137.rs/


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messuages include quince, honey, and then apricot, plum, apple, vine and pear brandies. But

there is also homemade bear and wine.

Vojvodina is a significant producer of fruit, which is processed throughout the year into

different products, and one of the inevitable products is fruit juice. Different kinds of

homemade fruit juice can be found in the market and hospitality facilities: beetroot, tomato,

quince, apricot, peach, pumpkin, plum, thorn, sour cherry, strawberry, elderberry, rose, and

even herbs.

Figure 3. The interior of Salaš 137

(Source: http://salas137.rs/)

Mokrin is synonymous with rolled cheese, but if you travel to the west, you can taste

Sombor cheese in a small vat, in the south you will be served smoked cheese, Pivnice sheese,

Irig cheese, goat cheese, or even donkey milk cheese in Zasavica, which is one of the most

expensive kind of cheese in the world (1kg, 1,000 EUR) (Kalenjuk et al., 2017b).

Once highly valued, and again nowadays very sought after in messuages is Mangulica, a

breed of pig, meat. The meat is different from other breeds because it is darker, more

succulent and has a stronger smell and it is much present in southern parts of Vojvodina, as

well as in northern parts. Srem (the mountainous area in Vojvodina) is among common

people divided into pork (southern) and wine (northern) part. According to this, pigs breeding,

culture and tradition have affected that the jewels of Vojvodina table become sausage

products. Apart from a big range of sausages which differ by the technology of production,

ingredients and combination of seasonings which give them a unique flavor, there are three

fermented products which are protected in the Srem region: Srem kulen (spice sausage), Srem

sausage and Srem salami.

http://salas137.rs/


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It is important to mention Petrovska kielbasa. This national specialty was created in the

18th

century when a large number of Slovaks inhabited Petrovac and its surroundings,

bringing along recipes for their meat products. It received its unique sensory character after

the end of trading with Turks, when the supply of some seasonings stopped. Pepper was

among these seasonings, and it was replaced with red hot pepper. The protected Petrovac

sausage is a fermented pork meat product with a pleasant, mild scent of smoke and flavor of a

mature product, with a pleasantly hot, but not sour taste. But also Lemes kulen from the

village of Lemes in the Svetozar Miletic Municipality. Here we also have other meat products

such as ham, bacon, prosciutto and similar (Banjac et al., 2016; Kalenjuk et al., 2017b).

Figure 4. Specialties of Salaš 137 (source: http://salas137.rs)

5. CONCLUSION

Messuages are symbols of the Pannonian Plain, good food and national music. They are

unavoidable destinations of national and foreign tourists. These hospitality facilities have

managed to preserve culture and traditions of the northern region of Serbia – Vojvodina. The

gastronomic identity of Vojvodina messuages is diverse and rich, created by mixing a large

number of cuisines of nations who inhabited this region throughout history or who still inhabit

it. They gained their significance with the adaptation in the 1990s with greater expansion in

the last three years. Today, they represent unique hospitality facilities. Messuages offer

authentic traditional dishes and high quality local drinks, but there are those which, in

addition to tasting, offer cooking courses and spending time in a real rural environment.

http://salas137.rs/


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The offer of authentic and drink in messuages significantly contributes to the rural and

economic development of the region, but the increase in the number of messuages and

activation of local communities, which perhaps have the greatest benefit from these facilities,

can contribute even more.

Acknowledgement

The authors would like to express their sincere thanks to the Provincial Secretariat for Higher Education and

Scientific Research of the Vojvodina Province, Republic of Serbia – Project: The effects of the development of

rural tourism in Vojvodina, No. 142-451-3683/2017-01/02, for the financial support.

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