gen-x 10 le - teamcrc.comgen-x 10 le. 1 center pivot base alum pivot ball 2-56 button head assemble...

Gen-X 10 LE

1

Center Pivot Base

2-56 Button HeadAlum Pivot ball

Assemble the Molded Center Pivot assembly as shown. Tighten the 2-56button head screws [4] enough to remove any up and down play, be sure theflanged pivot ball [2] pivots freely.

*Note - Sometimes it is helpful to over-tighten the screws, then workthe ball around by hand, and then loosen the screws so the ball floats aroundvery free. Do not over-tighten the screws too much or you could warp thepivot socket.

slightly

Bag 1

Center Pivot

1 2

3

4

4

1

2

4

Center Pivot Cap

3

4-40 Thin Hex Nut4-40 x ½” FH Steel Washer Red Locknut

1 - Place the 4-40 x ½” screws [5] through the graphite chassis [6] inthe holes shown. Tighten a 4-40 thin hex nut [7] down fairly tight.

2 - Then, after both thin hex nuts are tight on the 2 mounting screws,drop the assembled center pivot over the screws. The assemblyshould slide down over the hex nuts, not sit on top of them.

3 - Drop a washer [8] over each screw above the center pivotassembly.

4 - Thread on the 4-40 red locknuts [9]. Do not tighten them yet as wewill adjust this in a later step.

Bag 1

Center Pivot

7 8 95

7

9

8

65

Be sure the 2 aluminum locknuts on top of the center pivot are slightly loose.There should be a washer under each alum locknut. Notice that the center pivot“floats" or moves slightly on the 2 screws. This "floating" allows the linksto "free up". This ensures that the rear pod plate pivots freely on the linksand center pivot ball. This is a crucial step when setting up the Gen-X 10.

Snap the 2 links on the balls as shown above. They should rock freely onthe pivot balls.

Place the chassis/backplate on a flat surface. No tires andno diff on the car! A smooth table or desk should do. Besure that the rear bottom plate and chassis are in astraight line, flat against the table, again, no tires on thecar. Lightly “tap” the chassis and rear pod releasing anytension in the links. Keep the chassis flat on the table for step 4.

Hold the chassis at the hold point “H” by pressingthe chassis down to the table. Slowly tighten the 2 locknuts thatsecure the center pivot. For now, just lightlysnug one side then the other.

Pick up the car and check the pivoting action ofrear lower plate. Rotate the rear plate from side-to-side. It should move free without binding or "clicking".If it does not, loosen the pivot locknuts and repeat steps 3+4.

If it rotates smoothly, tighten the locknuts on the center pivot moresecurely. Do this by again holding the chassis down to the table at thehold point “H”. Slowly and carefully, fully tighten the locknuts that hold the centerpivot to the chassis. The handling of the Gen-X 10 hinges (pun intended!) on thefree movement of this rear plate. Be sure that the rear links and rear plate are free and not binding.

(not the rear pod)

1.

2.

3.

4.

5.

5

Center PivotSetting the One-piece links

2

H

Bag 2

4-40 x 5/16”FH steel

4-40 x ½”FH Steel

Red Low-Profile Ball

1 - In Bag 2, find the graphite bottom plate [10]. Secure it to the pivot ball assembly with the ½”flat head screw [5]. Secure it tight with the red hex standoff [11].

2 - Find the 4 red low profile balls [12]. Secure them as shown with the steel 5/16” screws [13].When secure, pop the plastic side links [14] on the balls so that the flat side of the ball socketsface the center of the car.

3 - Insert the 2-56 button head screws into the side links from the outsides of the chassis asshown, and only tighten them enough so that the links will not pop off the balls. You want thelinks to pivot very freely without any drag.

4

10

11

12

13

12

13

14

52-56 Button Head

4

5

Rotate

One-PieceSide Links

14

H

Left Side Plate

GraphiteTop Plate

1 - Install the black 2-56 ballstuds [15] into the graphite top plate [16]. These steel balls thread into thegraphite, no nut is needed. Be sure to start them straight and turn them in slowly so they do not strip or break.A drop of oil is helpful to avoid breaking the steel ball in the graphite. Also, to avoid breakage, tighten theballstud a little and then loosen, then a little tighter, then loosen, working the ballstud into the carbon slowly.Stop tightening the moment the flat of the steel ballstud contacts the carbon.

2 - Insert a red aluminum 4-40 ballstud [17] through the graphite top plate [16] and tighten it in place with a redlocknut [9].

4 - Install the rear pod-brace [19] to the back of the motorplate [20] and left side pod plate [21]. Use 4 1/4” button headscrews [18] to attach the graphite piece to the pod plates.

5 - Install the completed rear pod assembly to the rear bottomplate using 4 1/4” flat head screws [22]. Keep an eye on thesescrews during the first few runs of your car. They tend toloosen until they take a “set” and then they WILL stay tight.Also install

*Note - We do NOT recommend using thread lock in anyapplication with very small hardware like this. The pieces canbecome so locked together that such a small hex wrench willbreak and not get the screw out if you ever need todisassemble it.

In time, the screw will naturally “seat” and stay tight. Justcheck on them once in awhile.

Also, keep an eye on the plastic left bulkhead screw holes, ifplastic burrs and flashing forms after repeated use, trim theburrs with a hobby knife to ensure the part mounts flat.

1 button head screw [18] through the top plate intothe standoff.

16

20

Bag 3

4-40 x 1/4”Button Head

4-40 x 1/4”Flat Head

2-56 SteelBallstud - Black

Rear X-Pod

3

15 18 22

Motor Plate

21

15

16

18

19

20

21

18

Red Locknut

9

Red Alum4-40 Ballstud

17

17

22

18

Bag 4

INSERT TWEAK SCREWS IN BRACE ASSEMBLY

1 - Place the Tweak Brace [25] on a smooth, flat table and thread the Tweak set screws [23] into the brace per the illustration. Tryto be careful to thread it in straight and perpendicular.

2 -

3 - Repeat the above steps for the second Tweak Plate, but flip the plate first as this is for the opposite side of the car.

With the tweak screw threaded through the brace, thread the plastic spring holder [24] onto the tweak screw as shown in theillustration. The tweak screw should thread in until almost flush with the bottom of the spring holder. These new spring holders donot require super glue to hold them to the tweak screws, but a small dot can be added as a precaution if you wish.

Tweak Plates

4

23

Thread the set screwin until flush with thebottom of the holder.

23

24

ProgressiveConical Spring

ATTACH SPRING TO HOLDER

Push the spring [26] into the groove on the plasticholder [24]. Make sure that the first coil sits into theangled groove. This allows the spring to sit flat on thebottom plate. If the spring coil is not properly seated inthe groove, the spring will sit on an angle and makethe car difficult to tweak properly.

Bag 4

26

26

24


17

Red Locknut

9

Tweak Plates

Make sure spring coilis seated into grooveon spring holder.

4-40 x 3/8”set screw

Molded PlasticSpring Holder

23 24

Assemble the Tweak Plates

1 - Use the 4-40 x 3/8” button head screws [28] to fasten theblack plastic standoffs [27] to the graphite tweak plate [25].

2 - Insert the red ball stud [17] through the tweak plate andsecure with a red locknut [9] as shown in the illustration.

27

28

17

25

9


28

25


22

5

22

1 - Mount the completed tweak brace assembly to the chassis as shown using the 4-40x 1/4” flat head screws [22]. Do this for both left and right side tweak plates.

Bag 5

2-56 set-screw stud

2-56 PlasticBall Cup

Short 4-40 PlasticBall Cup (on tree)

.035”Allen Driver

Delrin Plunger Aluminum Tube

.125 "1

2

3

4.188 "

1 - Use the small allen key [29] to drive the 2-56 set screw stud [30] into the thin plastic ball cup [31].2 - Leave about 3/16” (half the set screw length) protruding from the ball cup.3 - Do the same for the short 4-40 ballcup [32]. Use the 4-40 x 5/16” set screw [36] and the slighty larger .050” allen key. Leave about 1/8” protruding.4 - Thread the 2 ball cups into their respective tube halves per the diagram. Finger tighten.

Damper Tubes4-40 x 5/16”

set screw

3629

30 31

29

30

31

36

32

32

34

33

3433

** Adding the Damper Tubes to the Chassis assembly **

Snap the assembled & lubed damper tubes on the respective points asshown in the diagram to the right. You will find it easier to snap on thecentered, smaller 2-56 ball studs first, then pop the outer, larger 4-40 ballcups

CR

CTube

Lube

5

35

Completed Tube

5 - Add CRC Tube Lube [35] to each slot on the delrin plunger [33].Build the tube and be sure it has smooth, damped action.

*** : fill only the slots, not the entire aluminum tube [34]. ***Note

6

Bag 6

Battery Top DeckRed 3/4”Standoff

37

1 - Bolt the 3/4” hex standoffs [37] to the chassis using four 1/4” flat head screws [22].

2 - Mount the plastic battery blocker pieces [38] to the chassis by fitting them into the holes as shown below, and then secure in place with 1/4” FH screws[22] in the center hole.

*Battery Positions - In the diagram on the top right, you will see that there are 3 positions for the battery blockers on the Gen-X10 LE chassis when using a1S battery pack. In position 3, there is no rear blocker as the pack will rest up against the center pivot. There is also a 4th position for a 1S LiPo pack wherethe pack goes across the back of the chassis like the Gen-XL 12th scale car. For this position, you will remove the top deck and battery blockers completely(pictured on the bottom of the next page) and tape the battery in between the links. As shown below, there is only one position available for 2S packs.

22

37


22


18

18

39


12

12


41

40

41

22

Insert the antenna tube (not pictured) into the front hole of theantenna mount [40] and lock it in place using the 1/8” set screw [105].

You can wrap the antenna around the tube and hold it in place withthe antenna cap, or you can drill a hole in the mount above the 3/8”FH screw [41] so you can feed the wire up through the tube.

22

38

(1S - 3)

(1S - 1)

(1S - 2)

(2S position)

3 - Mount the red low-profile ball [12] to the graphite top deck [39] inthe hole shown below using a 1/4” FH screw [22]. Then mount theantenna mount [40] in the holes shown using the 3/8” FH screws[38]. (The antenna mount [40], the 3/8” FH screws [38], and the 1/8”set screw [105] come out of Bag 7, which is the next bag we willopen for assembling the center shock.)

4 - Once the top deck assembly is complete, mount the top deck [39]to the chassis standoffs [37] using the four 1/4” BH screws [18].

7

Bag 7

Center Shock

1 - Thread the spring adjuster nut [42] onto the shock body [43] as shown above. *This needs to be installed first or you will not be able to get it on later after thelower end of the shock is assembled!*2 - Insert only 1 of the small o-rings [44] into the lower end of the shock body [43]. Next, install the bottom shock plug [45] and tighten the bottom shock cap [46].3 - Insert 1 of the small e-clips [47] into the lower groove of the shock shaft [48]. Slide the piston [49] over the shaft until it stops against the e-clip and thensecure it in place with the other e-clip in the end groove. Next, slide the other small o-ring [44] over the shock shaft and up against the piston. This o-ring acts asa travel limiter.4 - Put a small dab of the included shock oil on the threads of the shock shaft to lube it and then slide the shock shaft through the bottom end of the shockcarefully so you do not damage the o-ring with the threads on the shock shaft. Pull the shaft all the way through until the piston bottoms out in the shock body.5 - Wipe off any excess oil from the threads of the shock shaft and then thread on the of the 2 included ballcups [50]. *If you need to hold the shaft withpliers, be sure to wrap a rag around the shaft first so the pliers do not damage the shaft. If there is any damage to the shaft, the sharp edges will damage the o-ring and cause the shock to leak.6 - Now with the shaft still fully extended, hold the shock body upright and fill with the included shock oil. Press the shaft in about half way and then return it tofull extension. Look inside the shock and you will notice small air bubbles in the oil. This is the rest of the air that was trapped below the piston. Allow enoughtime for the air bubbles to work their way to the surface and pop.7 - Once satisfied that all of the air is out of the shock, top off with oil and then insert the shock bladder [51] by laying one side into the oil and then rolling yourfinger across the top of the bladder to expel any excess air and/or oil.8 - Insert the flanged ballcup [52] into the upper shock cap [53] and then tighten this down over the shock bladder, being careful to not knock the bladder off itsseat and allowing air to enter the shock. *Double check that the shock is working smoothly through its range of motion and that you can fully compress theshock. If it binds up before being fully compressed, then it has too much oil and you will need to crack the top cap loose and expel a very small amount of oil andretighten.9 - Slide the shock spring [54] over the shock body and keep in place by clicking the spring retainer [55] over the shock shaft and sliding it down over the longballcup to keep it in place.

longer

42

50

55

48

44

46

45

54

43

44

47

49

51

52

53

(Lower groove)

(End groove)

40

Antenna /Shock Mount


17


38

CRC Encore Shock

*Note* - The red ballstud [17] in this bag is not used unless you try the rear battery setup similarto the 12th scale Gen-XL.

17

4-40 x 1/8”Set Screw

105

105

2-56 x ½” SH

Plastic Ride HeightSpacers 3, 4, 5mm

DelrinPivot Ball

CRC Pro-Strut

Front End2-56 RedLocknut


1 - Pop the delrin pivot ball [56] into the lower arm [57]. Place the arm on a strong table and pushthe ball in with the back of screwdriver handle. Or preferably, you can use CRC’s 4279 Ball popperpivot ball tool. Notice the “lip” of the delrin pivot ball is pointing upward. The diagram to the leftrepresents a right side lower arm. For the left side, flip the second arm over and be sure the pivotball is installed with the lip again facing up.

2 - Once the ball is popped in, insert the black 2-56 clamp screw [58] through the horizontal hole inthe lower arm. Thread the 2-56 red locknut [59] onto the black screw. Tighten the screw slowlycontinuously checking the pivot ball. When it begins to bind slightly, loosen the 2-56 screw a little.The ball should be free to pivot with just a bit of drag. There is no need to have this ball super looseand free, a slight drag will be just the right amount of clamping force.

Check this fit after a few runs as the ball will wear and require additional clamping force.

Lip

1 - Install the upper A-arm mount [60] with the amount of Dynamic Caster desired. The options are 0, 5 and 10degrees. The part shown to the right in the diagram is the 5 degree version and is a good starting point. The10 will angle down more toward the front of the car with the 0 being parallel to the chassis. The generalthought is the more Dynamic Caster, more steering the car will have at corner entry.

2 - With side cutters or good scissors, cut off (do NOT break off) the 3, 4 and 5 mm spacers [61] from the rideheight tree. Use the 5 mm thickness for 1/10th scale tires. For fine front ride height adjustments, use the CRC#4262 optional front shim set. This set contains .010, .020 and .030” plastic ride height shims. After selectingthe proper spacer, push the 4-40 x 7/16” screw [62] through the plastic ride height spacer [61], then throughthe lower arm [57], and then thread the screw into the upper A-arm mount [60]. Be sure NOT to over tighten.Just snug, so you do not deform any of the plastic parts.

56

5657

58

58

59

59

60

61

62

61

57

62Bag F

1 - Break the mold tree from the upper A-arm [63]. You can clean up themold gates with a hobby knife or rotary tool.

2 - Locate the upper arm hinge pin [64] and slide it into one half of the upperarm. Locate 3 small caster shims [65]. Push the hinge pin through the 3shims. Then continue to push the hinge pin all the way into the upper arm.

3 - Now, install the arm/pin/washer assembly onto the upper arm mount [60].Put the hinge pin in the channel. At this point you can set your startingcaster setting by moving these washers forward and back. The positionshown to the left will result in a competitive handling. Moving them to therear will increase steering from the center and exit of the corner.

If the fit of the upper arm is tight, trim the upper arm mount SLIGHTLY with ahobby knife.

4 - Install the upper cap [66] with four 2-56 button head screws [67]. Thetopper is the “clamp” for the hinge pin. Be sure to tighten so that any gap isgone, however, do not tighten beyond that point as damage can occur to theupper a-arm mount holes.

63 64

65

60

66

Hinge Pin

64

Caster Shim

65

2-56 BH

67

Upper Cap

66

67

8

Dual Axle King Pin

Brass SetScrew

E-Clip

2-56 SH

1 - Build up the left and right steering blocks [68] as shown to the left. Start by threading the button head screw [18]through the graphite steering arm [69] and into the red low profile ball [12].

2 - Then, slide the graphite steering arm assembly into the steering block, lining up the 2 mounting holes. Using the2-56 socket head screws [70], fasten the arm to the steering block. DO NOT OVER tighten. You will drive the screwthrough the steering block, deforming the part.

1 - Push the Dual aluminum axle [71] into the plastic steering block [68]. Push it all the wayin firmly. Notice you can install the axle inline or trailing. Typically, this is installed inline for1/10th racing. This will increase the steering response as compared to trailing.

2 - Insert the e-clip [74] into the groove on the end of the King pin [72]. Next, slide the nylonspring cup [76] all the way down until it rests against the e-clip. Make sure the largerdiameter of the spring cup is against the e-clip and the smaller diameter side faces up. Nowslide the spring [73] down against the spring cup, large side down. The larger end of thespring will fit over the step in the spring cup, and the smaller end of the spring will fit into thebottom of the lower arm.

3 - Now put your king pin / spring assembly on the end of the Allen key and slide it throughthe lower arm pivot ball [56], & then thread it into the steering block (with the steering blockall the way down against the pivot ball). Thread the king pin in until the spring just touchesthe lower arm pivot ball. The preload on the spring can be adjusted with the king pin length.

4 - Once happy with the preload position, lock the king pin with the 4-40 brass set screw[75] through the back of the steering block.

CRC Pro-Strut

Front End - cont.


12


18

71

68

72

73

74

75

71 72

7574

70

UpperBall

77

68

18

69

12 70

GraphiteSteering Arm

69

9

ProgressiveConical Spring

73

76

Nylon SpringCup

76

1 - Take the upper pivot ball [77] and push it though the steering block andthread into the upper arm. Thread it in so there are no threads showing.

2 - Take the slotted capture insert [78] and thread it into the steering block.THIS IS A BIT TRICKY .... as the insert must be fitted at a down angle asshown to the left. DO NOT try to insert it horizontally into the steering block. Itis actually threaded in at a down angle toward the center of the car.

3 - Tighten this capture insert so that the steering movement is bound andslow. Yes, we are actually slightly over tightening this piece FOR NOW. Withthe steering movement bound from over tightening, move the steering to it’slimits, back and forth. What we are doing is “breaking in” the upperball/capture insert. After a minute or so of break in, loosen the insert justenough so the steering is free. Not too much or you will induce excessive freeplay.

7778

10

41

79

81

Installing the Lower arm to the Chassis

1 - Insert four 4-40 x 3/8” FH screws [41] through the chassis, andthen place two #4 washers [81] over each of the screws beforesliding them through the Front End Plate [79]. Secure these partswith red locknuts [9].

2 - Now, secure the front end assembly to the plate using the 8-32 x5/8” low head front end screws [80]. We recommend starting in therear hole, as this is the smoother setting. Going longer in the frontend will make the car steer more. Make sure you are using the sameset of holes for both sides!

CRC Pro-Strut

Front End - cont.

Red Locknut

9

8-32 x 5/8”Low HeadF.E. Screw

80

Installing the Bumper to the Chassis

1 - Insert three 4-40 x 5/16” red FH screws [82] through thechassis, then through the Bumper [83] Secure these partswith three red locknuts [9].

9


41

Gray #4 Washer

81

80

82

9

4-40 x 5/16”Red FH82

83

Adjustable Servo Mounts

The Gen-X 10 is equipped with an adjustable servo mounting system that will letyou use a variety of servos from different manufacturers.

1 - Align the adjustable servo mount plate [84] so that the longer slot is to the leftof the car, and lines up over the larger hole in the chassis.

2 - Use the 4-40 x 1/4” button head screws [18] to bolt the servo mounts [85] tothe adjustable servo mount plate.

Do not tighten these yet as we will need to beable to slide them when installing the servo.

3 - Slide the two 4-40 x 5/16” FH screws [13] through the holes in the chassisand then through the slots in the servo plate. Place a washer [8] over the screwsand finish with the red locknuts [9]. Again, do not fully tighten these yet as wewill need to move it later.

(Refer to the diagram on the right to decide which of

the 3 holes to use for your servo.)

11

JR 3550 and 3650use the middle

screw hole.

Futaba 9650,KO 949, Hitec 225,

and Airtronics/Sanwa -94141 and 94145use the rear hole.

Red Locknut

9

CRC Pro-Strut

Front End - cont.

Servo Mounting and Tie-Rods

In most cases, mounting the servo in the top hole of the servo mount will bethe best option for tie-rod clearance, bump-steer angle, etc. This could varyslightly with different servo savers, but would be rare.

We recommend using the Kimbrough Mid-Size Servo Saver (part numberKIM201) and u

1 - Thread the 1/4” BH screws [18] into the servo saver from the back andthen secure them with a red low profile ball [12] on the front. Mount the servosaver to the servo

.

2 - Mount your servo to the servo mounts using 1/4” button head screws [18].Slide the screws through the top ears of the servo and then thread them intothe top holes in the servo mounts [85]. Make sure the servo mounts facestraight forward and are as close to the servo as you can get them, then fullytighten the button head screws

3 - Slide the servo left or right on the plate to get the servo saver centeredbetween the front end. Once it’s centered, fully tighten the button headscrews [18] to lock the servo mounts in place.

4 - Thread a ballcup [86] onto each end of the steering tie-rods [87], keepingin mind that one end is right hand threads and the other end is left handthreads. Keep the gap between the ballcup and the end of threads as equalas you can on both sides. Once both tie-rods are built, pop one end of eachtie-rod onto the servo saver and the other end onto the steering blocks. Keepthe servo saver pointing straight down, and adjust your tie-rod lengths so thatboth front axles point straight out.

(you will need to remove it later to center the servo trim once the

rest of the electronics are installed)

(without causing damage to the servo ears!).

(Just get it close for now. It will be easier toaccurately set the toe-in once the front tires are installed.)

sing the lowest and outermost holes on the servo saver.

Front of Car

Left

Washer

8

18

8

9

4-40 x 5/16”FH steel13


12


18

84

85

13

8786

Diff Ring

Bag 9

Differential

1/4” x 3/8”Flanged Bearing

89

97 1/4” x 3/8”Plain Bearing

98

Lip

Diff Spacer

Spring Washer

Nylon Diff Nut

4 - Slide the rear axle [90] through two 1/4” shims [91] and into the 2 rear pod bearings.

5 - On the protruding axle, slip two more 1/4” shims over the axle. Then slip the hub [92] on as shown in the picture.

Bag 8

1 - Locate the tree of ride height inserts [88]. Select an insert that will work best with your tire size. Save the left over inserts as you will use these to adjust rear ride height as the tires wear.

2 - Insert a 1/4” x 3/8” [89] Flanged Bearing into each of the ride height spacers.

3 - Now insert the ride height spacers into the rear pod plates with the bearings up.

(example - the #2 spacers will give you about 5mm

of ride height with 2.20” tires)

Differential Axle

1/4” Shim

1 - INSTALL AND GREASE THE DIFF BALLS

Pop the 1/8” diff balls [94] into each of the outer ring of holes in thediff gear [95]. The balls snap into the socket. Place a small dab ofsilicone diff grease [96] on each ball. Use very little!

*(Holding the car on it’s side, with the rear axle pointing upright willease assembly of the diff.) Place 1 diff ring [97], and then a 1/4” x3/8” plain bearing [98] over the end of the axle. Align the diff ring sothat it notches into the axle flange. Place the assembled gear withthe greased diff balls over the axle and push it down over the plainbearing. Next, insert the other plain bearing into the back of the diffhub [99]. Then, align the second diff ring with the notch on the backof the diff hub. *(place a small dab of the diff grease on the hub firstto hold the ring in place.)* Now, slide the hub, bearing, & diff ringdown over the axle. Next, slide a flanged bearing [89] over the axleand into the front of the diff hub.

2 - DIFF ASSEMBLY

Small liptoward bearing

1

** Balls in outer ring of holes in gear **

88

90

1/4” x 3/8”Flanged Bearing

Ride Height Inserts

89 91

89

88

88

91

92

93

89

DIFF ASSEMBLY - CONTINUED...The diff spacer [100] has a small machinedlip on one side, point that lip toward thebearing. Now, place the spring washer [101]so that the cone points away from the gear.The outside of the washer should beagainst the diff spacer, and the inside of thewasher should be against the diff nut [102],which now goes on last. *Be sure the 2 “D”rings have settled into their notches. Justsnug the nut so the parts stay together onthe diff axle. Correct diff tension needs tobe set with tires on the car. We will do thislater.

94

95

96

98

99

89

97

91

0123

4-40 x 3/8”Steel Socket Cap

93

6 - Lock the hub in place with the two 4-40 x 3/8” steel cap head screws [93] so that the axle has avery small amount of side to side play in it. The thickness of 2 sheets of paper is plenty. You don’twant excessive play here, you’re just making sure to not pinch the bearings.

12

101

100

102

100

101

102

4-40 x 1/8”Set Screw

Bag 10

4-40 x 3/8”Red Socket Cap

BODY POSTS

1 - Secure the body posts [103] to the front bumper [83] and thetweak plates [25] with the steel button head screws [28]. The tweakplates have four body mount locations to accommodate numerousbody sizes and styles. Choose the hole that will work best with yourbody.

2 - Thread the 1/8” set screw [105] into the plastic collars [104].Adjust the collar up and down the body post to accommodate thebody shell used. Lock the collar with the set screw.

13

Adjust body heightby raising or

lowering this collar

28

25

83

Bag 113/16” Shim

3/16” x 5/16”Flanged Bearing Red Locknut

9107 108

1 - Use the 4-40 x 3/8” red cap head screws [106] to bolt the rear wheels to the hubs.

2 - Insert the flanged bearings [108] into the front wheels. Place a 3/16” shim [107] overthe axle, then the front wheel, & then a red locknut [9] last. The front wheels should spinvery free. Do not over-tighten the front wheel nuts so that the bearings are pinched.

(Tires not included)

105

105


28

106

103

104

9

108

107

106

Four rear bodymount locations

28

103

CRC Gen-X 102008 IIC Winner - Las Vegas

2008 - U.S. Indoor Champs T.Q. + 1st - Cleveland

2009 IIC Top Qualifier - Las Vegas

2009 Halloween Classic T.Q. + 1st

2009 U.S. Indoor Champs T.Q. + 1st - 13.5 Class

2009 U.S. Indoor Champs T.Q. + 1st - 10.5 Expert Class

2010 Snowbird Nationals - T.Q. + 1st

2010 ROAR Nationals - T.Q.

CRC Gen-X 10 LE2010 IIC Las Vegas - T.Q. + 1st

Expert 10.5 World GT

2010 IIC Las Vegas - T.Q. + 1st + 2nd

Stock 13.5 World GT

2010 Timezone Grand Prix T.Q. + 1st

To be continued....

gen-x 10 le - teamcrc.comgen-x 10 le. 1 center pivot base alum pivot ball 2-56 button head assemble...

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