gini silk mills report

Inplant Training Report GSML

ReportOn

In-plant TrainingAt

GINI SILK MILLS LTD

During10/6/09 TO 4/7/09

By,

DHRUV RAKESH SHAHTYTC

ISO:08DSTXCH68ROLL: 52

D.K.T.E.’s Textile & Engineering Institute,Rajwada,

Ichalkaranji – 416115.

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CERTIFICATE

THIS IS TO CERTIFY THAT THE INPLANT

TRAINING REPORT PREPARED SATISFACTORALY

BY MR. DHRUV RAKESH SHAH OF THIRD YEAR

YEAR B.TEXT TC AND IS SUBMITTED TO THE

DKTE SOCIETYS TEXTILE AND ENGINEERING

INSTITUTE, ICHALKARANJI IN PARTIAL

FULFILMENT OF THE REQUIREMENT OF THE

TEXTILE CHEMISTRY COURSE OF SHIVAJI

UNIERSITY, KOLHAPUR.

TRG & PLACMENT OFFICER HOD TEXTILES

PRINCIPAL

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ACKNOWLEDGEMENT

This page of my In-plant Training Report is dedicated to thank all those who were helpful

to me while my Project Work and without whom, the preparation of this report would have been

very difficult.

.

Firstly I would like to mention the name of General Manager of GSML Mr. Dasgupta ji

who accepted the request from our Institute and allowed us to undergo training at GSML. Our

sincere thanks to our college’s training and placement officer Mr.S.S.Lavate

Also not to be forgotten are all the Departmental Heads of respective departments who

helped us in understanding what all we wanted to in a proper manner. And, last but not the least

all the employees of GSML who were very co-operative, helpful and friendly.

All in all it was a great experience at GSML.

DHRUV RAKESH SHAH

Mumbai

4 th JULY 2009

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PROGRAMS OF TRAINING

The training in the GSML started at 10th of June,2009

I was placed in Lab from 10th till 15 july,2009

In dyeing department from 16th till 22th july, 2009

In Finishing department from 23th to 29th july,2009

In Printing department from 30th to 4th july, 2009

In between while training in all the department I had taken oppurtinity to collect information

from other departments like Packing, folding, EDP, boiler ETP, ISO Information etc.

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INTRODUCTION OF GSML

Address of head office

413 jogani industrial estate,

opposite Kasturba Hospital,

J.R. Boricha Road,

Lower Parel,

Mumbai 400011

Tel 23020610/11/12

Plant address:

E-15,

MIDC-Tarapur,

Boisar

401506

Thane

Tel 02525271333

The Flagship Company of the group, GINI SILK MILLS LTD. The process house at Tarapur

is used for the dyeing and printing of fabrics. The annual capacity of the process house is 21.6

million meter.

GSML is involved the manufacturing and processing of the fabric from 1963. It has expertise in

the processing of the polyester cotton blend, polyester viscose blend, 100% cotton fabric, 100%

polyester fabric, Lycra blended fabric etc. It processes suiting, shirting, and curtain clothes.

GSML has its own brand as GINI fabrics itself and also takes work for the processing on job

work basis.

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Few of their esteemed buyers are

-Wills Lifestyle

-Westside,

-Peter England,

-Indigo Nation and

-Shopper stop

Total production per day in dyeing: 32800 mtrs.

Total production per day in singeing: 35-40000 mtrs.

Total production per day in finishing:60000mtrs

Water consumption/day: 1200000ltrs

Steam consumption/day: 96tons

Electricity consumption/day:.7000KW

Coal for steam/month:300000kg

Coal for Thermopac:170000kgs

Water/metre: 17ltrs

Steam coal/mtrs: 0.2kgs

Thermo coal/mtrs 0.15kgs

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INDEX

Sr.No. Departments Page No.1 LABORATORY 92 GERY DEPARTMENT 143 SINGEING 154 BLEACHING AND DYEING DEPARTMENT 175 FINISHING 276 PRINTING DEPARTMENT 337 BOILER DEPARTMENT 378 ETP 399 ELECTRICAL 4010 EDP DEPARTMENT 4111 STORES AND PURCHASE 42

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PLANT LAY-OUT

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ORGANIZATION STURCTURE

1) CHAIRMAN (Mr.V. HARLALKA)

2) MD (Mr.DEEPAK V. HARLALKA)

3) PROCSSING MANAGER (Mr. DASGUPTA)

I) DYEING INCHARG (Mr.DINESH YADAV)

II) FINISHING INCHARGE (Mr.PATIL)

III) PRINTING INCHARGE (Mr.JOSHI)

A) SENIOR SUPERVISOR

B) SUPERVISOR

C) JOBBER

D) OPERATOR

E) HELPER

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LABORATORY

MACHINES IN LABORATORY

NO. MACHINES NOS

1. Padding Mangle 1

2. IFB Front loading washing machine 1

3. Oven 1

4. Hot Plate 1

5. Infra colour HTHP Machine (24 Pot) 1

6. Rota dyeing Machine (18 Pot) 1

7. Water dye bath (6 Pot) 1

8. HTHP Glycerin Bath (1pot 300gm 2 pot 150 gm) 1

9. HTHP Glycerin Bath (12 Pot 20 grams) 1

10. Weighing balance Digital (250 grams max) 1

11. pH Indicator 1

12. Colour Matching Cabinet 1

13. Pilling Tester 1

14. Crock Meter 1

15. Pilling Tester 1

16. Crease Recovery Tester 1

17. Tearing strength Tester 1

18. Tensile strength tester 1

19. CCM (Premier colour scan)+PC+Printer 1

Gini Silk mills have a moderate sized testing laboratory, in which different work like testing

of chemicals, auxiliaries, dyes, water, coal etc are carried out with physical testing of fabric is

also carried out. Work of shade matching is also carried out in the laboratory.

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As the GSM is ISO 9001:2000 certified company, its every machine should be calibrated at a

particular interval. The time interval varies from machine to machine. Very sensitive electronic

machines requires frequent calibration such as CCM requires daily calibration where as the

thermostat in dyeing machines need an interval of 5-6 months while some simple mechanical

machine requires less calibration.

STANDARDS

The generalized standard for the fabric processed should be as follows

1) Skew = 2-3%

2) Shrinkage = 2.5-3%

3) Crock Fastness rating = Wet 3 and dry 4

4) Tear strength = >1000 for Warp and > 700 for weft

5) Pilling rating = 4

STAIN REMOVING

For removing stains on PV fabric the fabric is dipped in 1.5gpl KMnO4 and 3%H2SO4

solution for 10-15 minutes at room temperature

To neutralize chemicals, water at 30-400C is taken and 2-3gpl Oxalic acid is added with 0.5-

1gpl H2O2. Then add fabric. The colour of KMnO4 ie purple colour gets immediately

decolourised immediately. Keep it for 5-10 minutes in it and give one hot and one cold wash and

dry.

FOR DEFINISHING

For definishing of any sample which come from the finishing department because of some

fault like less water absorbency, is finish is not as per desired standard or some tonal change is

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there in the fabric which is to be redyed, is treated with 2-3gpl soap, 10-20gpl enzyme for half

hour at 60-700C

POLYESTER DYEING IN LAB

In polyester fabric there are two types. Firstly piece dyed and secondly top dyed.

Piece dyed fabric are fully white, while top dyed fabric are partially dyed in yarn form and then

fabric is formed.

In piece dyeing dyeing of fabric higher temperature is used for dyeing i.e. 1300C while in top

dyed fabric, the temperature of dyeing is in range of 90-1100C max and if more temperature is

kep than, the dye of already dyed dibre will bleed and it will stain undyed part and the depth of

top dyed part will also decrease, resulting in improper dyeing.

The generalized procedure in GSM for polyester dyeing is 1.50C/minute rise of temperature

till reaching the desired temperature for top or piece dyed material and a holding time of 45

minutes. Than cooling is done till 900C and the bath is drained.

The dyeing bath contains of 1gpl CH3COOH, 0.5gpl leveling agent (Either of the following

PDM which is having 2x power than DFT)

MLR of 1:10 is maintained

The Reduction clearing (RC) treatment is given only for dark shades with following

chemicals, Hydro 2gpl, soda 2gpl for 5 minutes at 600C after that soaping treatment is given with

2gpl soap and 2gpl soda for 5 minutes at 600C after that single cold wash is given to it.

PREPARATION OF TINTING SOLUTION

4R (2 LITRES) 4B(2 LITRES)

60 RED VIOLET IFBL 39.6 gms CL Blue 2RX

30 gms Dispersing Agent 28.4gms Red violet IFBL

10 ml Acetic Acid 30 gms Dispersing agent

10 ml Acetic acid

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Tinting solution is prepared in laboratory for the dyeing department 5 times a day so that the dye

does not get precipitated and is used in the tinting of the white shades so as to give more

whiteness in the cloth.

AUXILLARY TESTING

All the auxillarys which purchased by the GSM are tested for its solid content in terms of %.

The procedure of it is as follows.

1) First weigh the empty petry dish or bowl and note its weight.

2) Add around approx 2gms of auxillary and again weigh the weight of dish and sample in

it.

3) Now keep it in oven for 3 and half hour ant 105-1100C

4) After that remove it and take the wt of crucible having auxillary in it. It will always be

less than the earlier weight. So by this was the difference in the weight is calculated and

the % solid content present is found out.

CHEMICAL TESTING

Most of the chemicals which are used for textile processing are tested in the laboratory by

titration. There are standardized procedures for it to test the samples. Every staff who does the

testing are suppose to test the samples in the stipulated way only.

DYES TESTING

Dyes testing is done by application it on the fabric only. For each and every class of dyes such

as Direct dyes, reactive dyes, Sulphur Dyes, Disperse Dyes, Cationic dyes etc there are standard

procedures which are to be followed and the dyeing of the new dye and the standard dye called

the pill box sample is tested and are then checked on the CCM spectrophotometer meter for the

strength and the tone of the new sample. If the tone and strength of the sample does not match

than the sample is rejected.

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WORK FLOW AND RECORD MANAGEMENT

1) Fabric is manufactured and a design no. is given to it by the weaving section

2) Fabric come to processing mill and are kept in grey department where they are given a lot

no. by the grey department.

3) As per the requirement from Gini’s customer or Gini itself for its own brand inform the

laboratory to produce a particular range of colour shade e.g light shades, heavy shades

etc, or the party gives particular shade for colour matching.

4) After that, the required group of colour is produced on the required fabric which is called

as lab dip

5) After that the cuttings of the dyeing made are systematically pasted in a record book with

its recipe and they are given lab numbers to it.

6) After that, the shades which have been prepared, are forwarded to Gini’s head office for

selection of the few best shades by means of consensus.

7) Once its passed in the office or by their customers, its informed to the dyeing department

to dye the lot.

8) So not the dyeing department after getting the lab no lot no from the office or their

customers tells the grey department to bring the fabric to dyeing department and at the

same time inform the lab staff to provide the recipe of that lab no. shade

9) Now the lab staff searches for the lab no record they have preserved in their records and

the recipe for it is forwaded to dyeing department so that they can carry out the dyeing.

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GREY DEPARTMENT

The grey fabric comes in roll form or bale form. There are various parties who provide grey

fabric for the processing, including Gini’s own produced cloth which comes from the weaving

department situated in Daman and Karad.Which include plain fabrics & top dyed fabrics.

Initially when the fabric come in tempo or truck its entry is done at the security department.

When the fabric bales of Takas are unloaded the number of rolls or bales are counted by the

security persons and kept as the record and also tallied against the partys challan.

The next step in the grey room dept. is giving piece no., lot no., to the fabric and challan

entry is done in the register. After that the fabric’s inspection is done for faults like oil dagi, fold

mark, Weaving oil grease, missing weft, hoose pick, hole etc are checked along with the length

of the fabric. The length of the fabric is generally recorded half a meter less than the given.

After that it is informed to the party and if the party is satisfied with the length of the cloth and

the faults it have in it than the job card is made. Job card is very important thing. It is a card

which have all the information of the fabric its party its length and the colour or process to be

given to it. It also have information regarding which pieces are to be joined together for

processing etc.

After that the fabric is kept at the empty position in the grey room. The grey room have

marking for identification of the fabric. After the fabric are placed the place number and all other

detail are fed to the computer for easy retrieval later on when the fabric is to be processed.

For giving lot no, piece no GSM make use of readymade ink called ‘Century’s texmarker’.

This is yellow in color & remains on the fabric even after any of the stringent chemical

processing. Weight of each and every roll or bale is taken and that is also noted.

The total numbers of the workers in the grey department were 10 men and 5 women’s and

staff included 4 persons.

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SINGEING

In singeing machine initially the fabric is brushed to remove loose threads and then singed.

After it is passed in quenching chamber filled with water. Before that there is also steam injector

on both side of the fabric to extinguish any sparks etc. After that it is passed to plating in which it

lays the fabric evenly in the container.

GEARING

The drive to the brush rollers is given separately by the motor, while there is other motor

which gives drive to the singeing rollers, Speed-o-meter, plating rollers, other guide roller near

steam quenching and guide roller before quenching.

There is gas connection given to the burners. Where the gas is supplied by external LPG gas

cylinders. Minimum 2Kg/cm2 pressure is required which is achieved by attaching 8 commercial

cylinder simultaneously to a single line. Cylinders are kept in water, when gas is near emptying,

steam is injected in it so water gets hot and all the remaining gas in the cylinder comes under

pressure and full utilization of gas is done.

The steam is given in machine by the steam from burner. There is a separate motor for

exhaust of hot gases and a separate motor for blowing air required for burning of gases.

For blend dyeing the fabric is first dyed by both dyes and then singing is done, where as for

only polyester the singeing is done so as to reduce the pilling tendency.

PARAMETERS TO BE CHECKED

1) There should be no creases in fabric. It should be perfectly flat

2) Speed varies with the quality generally 60-90mpm and shirting 50-60mpm is kept

3) The flame direction is to be checked whether it is perfect or not

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4) Flame intensity should be checked. For heavy quality of fabric the flame intensity is kept

more.

COST

The cost for singeing of one meter of the cloth is charged at Rupee 0.5

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BLEACHING AND DYEING DEPARTMENT

GSM does not have a separate bleaching department. It included in the dyeing department

itself. The generalized process sequence of the fabric of various types are shown below. The

different types of fabric which GSM processes at its processing unit are as follows P/V shirting,

P/C shirting, 100%Cotton shirting in generally Top dyed and few in Piece dyed quality. In

suiting it processes Piece as well as top dyed suiting of Ginis own brand as well as job work. It

also processes Acrylic suiting and shirting goods in its unit. Other than suiting and shirting it has

capacity to process furnishing cloth of cotton or P/C blend for curtains.

TOTAL MACHINES IN DYEING DEPARTMENT

1 Jet (U-Tube) 7

2 Baby Jet (U-Tube) 1

3 Horizontal Jet 2

4 Winch 2

5 VDR 1

6 Singeing machine 1

7 Jigger Dyeing Machine 14

8 Jumbo Jigger Dyeing Machine 5

9 Slit Machine 1

10 Float Dryer 1

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Below is the generalized sequence for some of the common sorts in GSMLP/V SHIRTING P/C SHIRTING 100% COTTON

SHIRTING (Top Dyed)GERY GREYStitching Stitching StitchingSingeing Singeing SingieingScouring in Jigger Scouring in Jigger Desize/ScouringHand Spotting (only in light shades) or with very heavy spots

Hand spotting (only in light shades) or with very heavy spots

Washing(for RMG materials only for removal of stains and spots in the fabric)

Jet Machine: first Stain removing is done than Dyeing is carried in fresh bath.

Mercerization Dyring on vertical drying range machine.

Dyeing on Jigger Jet Machine first Stain removing is done than Dyeing is carried in fresh bath.

Stenter for application of finish on the fabric

Slit machine for Checking of any faults in the fabric also for very high level of squeezing.

Dyeing on Jigger Dry finishing

Wet Finishing Slit machine for Checking of any faults in the fabric also for very high level of squeezing.

Below things as per requirement.

Below things as per requirement.

Wet finishing Sanforizing (zero-zero)

Sanforizing (zero-zero) Below things as per requirement

Calander/Shriner Calander

Calander/Shriner Calander Sanforizing (zero-zero) Deca finishDeca finish Calander/Shriner Calander FoldingFolding Deca finish CheckingChecking Folding PackingPacking Checking DeliveryDelivery Packing

Delivery

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Piece Dyed Suiting Top dyed Suiting

Grey Grey

Stitching Stitching

Singeing Singeing

Scouring Washing

Drying on VDR Drying on VDR

Heat setting on stenter Finishing on Stenter

Polyester dyeing on Jet Below things as per requirement.

Reduction clearing (For Dark Shades) Sanforizing (zero-zero)

Drying on VDR Deca finish

Cotton Dyeing on Jigger Folding

Drying on VDR Checking

Finishing on Stenter Packing

Below things as per requirement. Delivery

Sanforizing (zero-zero)

Deca finish

Folding

Checking

Packing

Delivery

HAND SPOTTING DEPARTMENT

The hand spotting department is a department whose work is to remove the stains from the

cloth. There are many stains on the fabric which gets on it while its manufacturing on the loom,

while transporting while storing in grey room etc. These stains need to be cleaned off, other wise

the processed goods will loose its value in terms of money and company may even lose it

potential customers. Hence hand spotting department is very crucial in any processing

department.

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In this department there were 8 workers who use to pull the fabric on a slant table lit with

good light and they pull the cloth towards them and check each and every meter of the cloth

which have spots on them. Generally all light colored clothes are hand spotted.

There are various chemicals used to remove the stains the most used solution was containing in it

2 kg FG

2 Kg EO 100 ( Stain removal)

2 Kg Oxalic Acid

In 25-30 liters of water.

There are also ready made solutions and solvents available for removal of grease, oil etc.

JIGGER DYEING

GSML have in all 19 jigger dyeing machines all them made by the manufacturer

Shakti Textile Engineering PVT LTD

Mumbai-400069

All the machines were equipped with Stop – Reverse – Forward Buttons on it. Additionally to

atomize the machine sensors were put so that if one end is complete the machine automatically

stops and again starts in the anti direction, hence less number of workers are needed in all.

In jigger machine the loading time varies as per the length of the fabric and its condition

varies between 10-45 minutes. All the jigger machines are run approximately at the speed of 65-

75 meters per minute.

The small jigger machines are having capacity for 150kg where as the jumbo jiggers are

having capacity of around 250-300kg of clothes.

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For soaping, washing etc the fabric is not rolled very perfectly or very evenly as no problem of

unevenness is there like in dyeing but in dying in jigger the fabric is rolled or wrapped on the

roller in a very evenly manner and very perfectly, evenly and very tightly.

Below are the few recipes on jigger dyeing machine for Stain removing, scouring, Dyeing .

For Stain removing before scouring

Sulpharmer- 1kg

Oelamine- 1kg

Tec C- 1Kg

At 800C for 2 ends

Bleaching of Cotton in P/C blend

H2O2- 1.5kg

Soda- 500gm

Soap- 200gm

Sodium Silicate- 500gm

For 6 ends at 850C then drain

Then

2 Ends for Hot wash then drain

Then

2 end for Cold wash then drain

Then

2 ends in Acetic acid then drain

ONE STEP SCOURING BLEACHING IN P/C BLEND

H2O2 1.5kg

Soda 500gms

Soap 200gms

Silicate 500gms

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Caustic 50gms

Helix 65gms

Then 1 Hot wash for 2 ends then drain

Then 1 Cold wash for 2 ends then drain

Then 2 ends in Acetic acid then drain

BLEACHING FOR READY MADE GARMENT FABRIC (RMG)

Caustic 1.5kg

Corex 0.3kg

Sulfarmer 0.3kg

Olemine 0.3kg

Soap 0.2kg

H2O2 1.5kg

Silicate 0.5kg

Soda 0.5kg

Give the treatment at 60-700C for 6 ends.And drop the bath

Then for neutralization

Bleaching powder 1.5kg

Soda 0.5kg

At room temperature for 6 ends and then drop the bath

Peroxide

H2O2 1.5kg

Silicate 0.5kg

Soda 0.5kg

Soap 0.3kg

Give this treatment at 800C for 4 ends and then drop the bath.

Neutralization

Acetic acid 0.500

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Give this treatment for 2 ends and drop the bath.

REACTIVE DYEING

In GSML generally Reactive H class dyeing is performed on the cotton fabric. The

generalized procedure for it is as follows.

For 150 kg of cloth in jigger the recipe for reactive H class dyeing is as follows.

Dye As per the % shade

Urea 200gms

Salt 10kg or as per the % shade

Insert the cloth in this bath at 800C and give 6-10 ends depending on the shade.

Than in the standing bath itself add Sodium carbonate

Na2CO3 4kg

Give 6 ends

Than in that bath itself add Caustic soda

NaOH 750gms

Give 6 ends and then drop the bath.

Give washing in the fresh bath at 85-900C for 4 ends

Then add acetic acid 1kg and give 2 ends for making the pH neutral

Then add cationic dye fixing agent Sandofix WEI 1kg in the same bath and give 6 ends for

assuring proper fastness at pH 4.5-5.5 and temperature at 25-35C

Then drain the bath.

Soaping

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Then give soaping for removing unfixed dyes.

Soap Poly EO 500gms

Temperature of 45-50C and give it for 6 ends and finally Drain the bath.

ACRYLIC DYEING

For the Cationic goods or acrylic goods the generalized procedure for the scouring and

Reduction clearing are as below

SCOURING

Hydros Cold 0.4kg

Give 4 end and drop the liquor

Give treatment with below solution

Liquor Ammonia 1.5kg

EO 100 0.2kg

Give 6 ends at 80-90C

After that give neutralization treatment

Poly acid/Acetic acid 98% 0.3-0.5kg

For 2 ends and drop the bath.

REDUCTION CLEARING TREATMENT FOR CATIONIC GOOD ON JIGGER

H2O2 1.5kg

Soda 0.5kg

Soap 0.2kg

Silicate 0.5kg

Give 6 ends at 70C and then give neutralization in fresh bath.

Neutralization

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Acetic acid 0.5kg

Finally drop the bath.

JET DYEING

There were total of 8 U tube jet and 2 horizontal Jet dyeing machine with one Baby jet U tube

dyeing machine which was used for the sampling purpose.

The U tube jet machine were built by Bhagyarekha-Devrekha (Surat)

Their maximum working pressure was 4kg/cm2 and working pressure is 2.5kg/cm2

7 jet were having capacity of around 150kg where as one other was having capacity of 250kg

and was generally used for suiting. Where as the baby jet had capacity of 25kg.

Where as the Horizontal jet dyeing machine belonged to Sanjay Engineering PVT LTD.

Dombivali. Their Maximum working pressure was 6kg/cm2 and working pressure was 2.5kg/cm2

This jet dyeing machine had capacity of 175kg.

RECIPES

The generalized recipe for jet scouring of Top dyed RMG garments on U tube are as follows

Corex 0.5kg

Sulfarmer 0.5kg

Olemine 0.5kg

EO-100 0.2kg

Emulsay 0.5kg

H2O2 1.0kg

Silicate 0.33kg

Give the above treatment for 40minutes at 60C.

After that drain the bath and give hot wash

Poly acid 0.25kg

White UDI 0.07%

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4B 0.035%

4R 0.007%

ED 0.5kg

Give the above treatment for 20 minutes at 65C

After that for whitening of cotton part give below treatment

White UBR 0.35gms

Salt 2gms

Acetic acid 0.25gms

Give above treatment for 15 minutes at 45C.

For Optical brightening of T/D RMG on jet the following recipe is used

White UDI 0.07%

4B 0.035%

4R 0.007%

Ranipal 2B 0.1%

Halio BS 0.01%

JET DYEING MACHINE WASHING

After the processing of dark shades on jet dyeing machine when ever light shade processing is

to be done then at that time washing of the machine with the following chemicals is necessary to

remove any stains or dye particles which could affect the colour of the light shade.

HCl 4kg

Caustic 3kg

Hydro 3kg

DFT 1kg

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FINISHING

GSML has a finishing department in which chemical and mechanical finishing to the fabric is

given. The finishing department have the following machinery as follows.

VDR 1

Stenter 2

Deca 2

Shriner Calander 1

Calandering machine 1

Sanforizing machine 1

CHECK POINT BEFORE AND AFTER FINISHING

1) Before finishing CheckWhether shade is ok or not

CheckGoods are stain free

Check Width and pH

2) Check Mangle Pressure and temperature

Check Finishing solution it should be clear and uniform

Check pH it should be slightly acidic

3) While FinishingCompare finishing with standard sample

Check speed, finishing width

Finishing width will be 1-2 cm higher then required width

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VDR

Vertical drying machine is used to dry the fabric so that they can be finished on the stenter or

else wet fabric will not pick up the finishing solution and there will not be proper finish on the

fabric.

VDR consists of total 8 Teflon coated rollers which are steam heated from internally.

First the fabric from the trolley passes over the guide rollers and then passes through the

trough containing water and it is squeezed by padding mangle whose nip pressure is kept

3.5kg/cm2 and then it passes over the heated Teflon coated rollers. The rollers are heated to a

tune of 125 to 130C and then again collected in the trolley.

In some case where the fabric have to be given wet finish are not dried particularly polyester

blend, where as 100% cotton are generally dried fully or almost dried and then given finish.

The speed is adjustable, for higher weight fabric like suiting sets are dried at very slow speed,

where as thin shirting are dried at higher speed.

STENTER

Stenter is a machine used for drying, curing and heat setting of fabric. There were 2 five

chamber stenters in GSML. Both the machines are automated and are based on the inverter

system which consumes 40% less electricity on motors etc.

The name of manufacturer is

SM energy teknik and Electronic Ltd, Situated in Vadodara and having office in Thane.

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It was of the year 95

The model no was ECON 2100 Pin stenter

Each stenter requires 5-6 workers in all for each machine

The speed and temperature of the stenter is kept around 40m/min and 150-170C for shirting

and 25m/min and 180-190C for suiting.

1) In the stenter the fabric is first dip into the trough having finishing solution then it passes

through the three padding roller having pressure of 4kg/cm2 then the fabric move upward

where the stenter situated for saving place and reducing the temperature at the working

place.

2) Above it passes from many guide rollers and reaches bowing rollers

3) The bowing rollers are adjusted to minimize the bowing and skewing effect of weft yarns

on the fabric

4) Then it passes through the tension rollers which reduses or increases the tension on the

fabric.

5) It then passes through the uncurl roller which uncurls the fabric if it is curled.

6) Then it passes over the over feed rollers which over feeds the cloth as per the requirement.

7) Then the fabric fits on the pin properly because of the sensors and enters the chambers and

comes out of the other side and is piled on the trolley.

FINISHING RECIPES

Recipes for finishing depends on the feel which is needed to achieve. The customers

provide samples of the fabric they need and the similar finish is to be achieved on the fabrics.

Hence combination of different finishes are to be formulated and fabric is finished.

Stenter machine is basically used for 3 purposes

1) Heat setting of synthetic fabric

2) Curing which is done when the finish applied on the fabric needs to be cross linked or

fixed on fabric for giving desired effect

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3) Drying

RECIPES

Few of the generalized recipes for finishing in GSML are as below.

For Softeneing

Isotex 2.5kg

Softex 1.5kg

Polyacid 0.5kg

Make total volume to 100litres.

It will work for 1200-1300 meters for shirting of 36” width and 750meters for fabric of 58”

width for wet finishging

For dry finish 100 litres will work for 450-500mtrs of suiting of 36”

CALANDERING MACHINE

In calancdering machine the fabric gets little shine and good drape to the fabric is given.

Width of the fabric reduces in the process by 1” For export quality of goods two time

calandering is done to get effect on both sides of fabric

The machine is equipped with a 37KW motor and is a 7 bowl calander machine Fabric is

many times not passed through all the rollers as the width reduces very much beyond

requirement.

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In this machine the fabric is taken thought the tension rollers and passes through the guide

roller and then passes through the metallic rollers and Cellulosic polyamide coated rollers. No

two metal rollers are in contact with each other. And then after passing through the guide roller

the piler piles the fabric in the trolley.

SCHINER MACHINE

Schiner machine is a type of calendar which give shine to the fabric and hence increases the

lusture of it to a very high extent.

Schiner machine consist of two rollers only one metal roller which is eternally heated by coils

and another big roller over it of cellulose.

Temperature is maintained between 115-140C and the nip pressure is 12-30 ton or 40kg/cm2

– 80kg/cm2

COMPRESSIVE SHRINKAGE MACHINE (ZERO-ZERO OR SANFORISING

MACHINE)

Sanforising machine is used to compress the material and prevent the fabric form getting

shrinkage later on while in use.

The machine was manufactured by Dhall Ltd, situated in Ahemadabad

In this machine the fabric passes through many guides and then reaches the nip of the steam

heated roller and rubber blanket. The cylinder is heated to 105-115C when the rubber belt is wet

and when the roller presses the fabric over rubber belt the water forms high pressure steam the

forces the warp yarns to come closer and hence achieve shrinkage.

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After that the fabric passes through the Felt roller which give more fuller feel to the fabric.

The rubber belt is 12 feet long and the thickness is of 2.5” The length is constant on all

machine of all make but the width varies from machine to machine

DECATISING MACHINE (DECA)

Decatising machine is a machine used to increase the bulkiness of the fabric and full ness of

the fabric by means of steam and pressure

There are two deca machine made by Dalal engineering and marketed by kumar Enterprises

Gujarat.

The machine was manufactured in year 2006 and other in 1996.

1) In decatising machine the fabric is rolled in-between the wrappers with a definite

pressure of around 1.5-2kg/cm2 for piece dyed and 5-6kg/cm2 for top dyed goods

2) Once the whole fabric is rolled up and loaded in the machine the fabric is steamed. The

steam from the rollers comes out from the layers of wrappers and fabric and gives a

fabric a soft and fuller feel

3) Steam is given for a time of 2-10minutes depending on the fabric.

4) After that the unloading of the fabric is done at one end and at the same time fabric is

load4d from other side.

5) Both rollers works simultaneously but the fabric which is rolled and unrolled are

independent of each other.

Total of 4 workers are required per machine.

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PRINTING DEPARTMENT

GSML has a printing department on the 2nd floor of the mill with a automatic flat bed printing

machine. The machine has 8 screen hence 8 colour printing is possible.

The department. Printing of Brasso, vat discharge, disperse, pigment etc printing is done here.

SCREEN MAKING

Design for the printing is made by the GSML’s artist or is provided by the customer.

After the making of design and finalizing of the design the design is passed to the tracing and

screen making department.

The tracer traces the screen on a tracing paper and then from a small tracing the same design

repeat is made on a special exposing film called Technova and repeats depending on the size of

the screen are exposed on the film and then that is dipped in ammonia solution where the

exposed part black and remaining remains transparent. Now that film is used to expose the

printing screen.

Printing screen is made with various quality of mesh size depending design to be printed. If

the design is sharp higher mesh no. is selected and if design is a blotch then lower mesh no. is

selected. The mesh are make of Generally nylon or Polyester.

The mesh if stretched on the stretching table and sticked on the frame with a adhesive on the

sides of the frame and then after dyring photo emulsion in a dark room is applied on it.

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The photo emulsion is prepared by

Photoemulsion 100gm

Ammonium dichromate 6-7gms

PVA 900gms

Poster colour 1-2gms

After even application of photoemulsion it is allowed to dry in the dark for half hour and after

that it is taken of the exposing by the Technova film.

The exposing is done on the screen for 6-8 times to cover the whole are of the screen. It is

exposed in UV light for 30-50seconds and after exposing is complete it is kept in the water tank

where the unexposed part gets loose and is washed off after 1 hour and the exposed part gets

hard

After drying a coating of lykar is applied on the whole screen, so its life increases.

ACTUAL PRINTING

GSML has a automatic Flat bed screen printing machine in its department with 8 colour

capacity.

The production in 12 hours is around 3500mtrs

The manufacturer of the machine is Tex Print Engineers LTD (Ahemadabad)

Once the screen preparation is over then the screen is put and fit on the machine and

depending on the number of colour that many screens are put one after the other. After putting

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the screens the fabric is layed on the rubber belt coated with adhesive so that the fabric does not

move while the printing is going on.

Afte that the paste is poured in between the two squeeges and printed on the fabric. All colour

are printed and then proper final setting of screen is done so that print comes at the exactly same

place where it is indented for. Or else there will defective printing and the cloth will not look

proper.

Below are the few generalized recipes of the printing at GSML

The gum for the different type of paste is earlier prepared and as per the requirement of the paste

in department the gum is mixed with the other components.

Disperse Paste

Gum L.V 8%

Ctiric Acid (pH) 1%

Pine oil (Anti foaming ) 1%

Loop accelerator 2%

Resist salt 1%

Water Remaining

Total 100kg

Brasso paste

Brasso 50%

Gum L.V 8%

Urea 2%

Glycerine 2%

Perminal KB 1%

Water Remaining

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Total 100kg

Pigment paste

Binder SLN 15%

EO 100 1.5%

Fixer CCL 3%

DAP (Depth enhancer) 1%

Kerosene 80%

Total 100Kg

After the application of the print paste to the fabric the fabric move ahead and again get

stationary for another part to get print.

After the printing the fabric move to the cuing chamber which is kept at 140-190C for

different type of the fabric.

For the brasso quality of print washing is necessary. The generalized recipe for the brasso

wash is as follows.

NaOH 1.5kg

H2O2 3kg

Soap 0.5kg

Meta silicate 0.5kg

Polyacid 1kg

The wash is given at 70C for 45 minutes. In that time the carbonized cotton is removed and net

effect at printed area can be seen clearly.

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BOILER DEPARTMENT GSML have total of 2 boiler made by the Shakti Boilers Dombivali.

1) 4 ton/hr Horizontal fire tube boiler actual production 3 tons/hr

2) 1 ton/hr coil boiler actual production 600kg/hr

It also have one thermopac heater machine and one non working oil fire boiler.

The maximum operating pressure is of 10kg/cm2 but normally it is operated at 7kg/cm2

pressure.

1) Hand firing is used in steam boiler. Water is sparyed on coal initially so that the small

particles of coal stick to the big ones.

2) Two feed pumps of multistage having 6-7 propellers in each are used to feed water to

boiler

3) Mobery is connected at outside boiler having a float in it over boiler water which indicate

the feed pump to work or stay off as required.

4) Coal is used as the firing medium A grade goal generates 7kg of steam from 1 kg.

The small water boiler gets heating from the thermopac oil heated in thermopac. This is

installed to overcome the problem of low capacity and pressure drop.

The water for the boiler needs to be softened. It is treated in Anion resin tank which reduces

the ppm to 5-10 and ph 7-8.5 which is standard for feed water to boiler.

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The resin needs to be charged after 70000ltrs of tank water or 210000 ltrs of water of MIDC.

From the resin chamber the water gets into storage tank and from there to the boiler as required.

The condensed steam is also utilized which reduces the energy consumption to great extent.

THERMOPAC

1) There is a installed thermopac for the heating of the oil for heating the stenter chambers.

2) Thermopac is heated by coal and is fired by machines in the fire box and is grinded to

small particles for proper and maximum energy from coal.

3) The oil used her is of Servo named Thermia Plus.

4) The oil is heated to 245C and the return oil is of around 220C

5) This oil is also used to heat water in the small boiler.

Thermopac and boiler are weekly maintained and checked for the basic parts and once in a

year the full opening and checking of the each and every part is done.

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EFFELUENT TREATMENT PLANT

Effluent treatment plant is the most curcial part of a company as it reduces the pollution to the

environment.

GSML has its own ETP plant and can process all the effluent in its own in house plant.

The ETP plant is of primary type here.

The process is as follows

1) First the water from the plant passes through a screen where large parts are trapped.

2) Then it is passed to collection tank where the air is blown from inside of tank to areate it

and it helps in reducing the temperature and also COD.

3) After that depending on the pH of the water alum or Lime is added to neutralize the

water.

4) After that it goes to the calri flocculator where the sedimentation of the sludge takes place

5) The sludge collected at bottom is taken to dry.

6) Where as the water is passed from the sand filter and then through carbon filter to filter

the small particles in it and then the water is checked for COD and pH and the let out of

the company.

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ELECTRICAL GSML purchases the electricity from the electric company and also has in house DG

plant to run the full plant.

They have a 750KVA transformer which is generally run at 75% capacity.

The daily consumption is of around 7000 units and power factor is to be maintained at

0.99.

The electricity to the machine in following way

1) Metering Box which is sealed

2) High tension breaker for 11000V

3) Step Down transformer from 11000V to 433V

4) Low tension Breaker

5) Power house

6) Machines

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EDP DEPARTMENT EDP (electronic Data processing department) is the a small department with 5 computers.

The main function of the EDP department is to entry all the details of the processing of the

fabric by lot number and also to input the stage at where the fabric is currently.

It deals with all the data collection in the unit, like pay to workers, staff, dispatch details, grey

department details, processing details etc and to coordinate with the head office of the GSML

situated at Mumbai.

There is always online connection with the head office so that the staff in the HO can view

the complete position of the company.

They have a software to commutate with each other. All the computers in the company at

tarapur, karad, daman and the head office are connected to each other and can share data with

them

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STORES AND PURCHASE At GSML there is a stores department which looks for any requirement of the dyes chemicals,

electrical parts, stationary in the whole plant.

The requirement in the plant is to be written in a memo and to be given to the stores. So after

that the stores issues that thing to the person requiring it.

The memo is kept for record and are fed to the computer every day which helps check the

stock.

There is ERP system installed in the GSML in which all the information is updated. The ERP

is also connected to the Head office in Mumbai. After there is any stock which is falling short is

getting near over than the staff at stores tell the Head office staff who have the purchasing power.

They check the stock there and order for the quotation of the goods. Once the quotation are

received the staff of Head office order that thing and that thing gets delivered to the plant

directly.

The new things which come to the plant are first checked if they are as per the standards. If it

is Dyes, chemicals etc it is cheeked in the Laboratory and after the report of lab they accept the

item an feed that data in computer. If it is not ok then the items are rejected.

All the items in the stores are kept as their names so that it become very easy for the staff to

find them when ever it is required.

The installation of a stable ERP system is going after which all the departments of whole

plant and other weaving plant and head office will get connected to each other and the paper

work will reduce very much and will also result in proper and easy functioning of the mill and

also save space for saving the hard copies

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gini silk mills report

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