give your formulation star appeal!biobiznes.net/pliki/prezentacje_firm/bayer/baycusan.pdf · (40 %...

give your formulation star aPPeal!

p o L y u r e t h A n e s F o r c o s m e t i c s

P o ly u r e t h a n e s

f o r C o s m e t i C s

e a s y t of o r m u l at e

f i l m f o r m e r s a n d

s e n s o ry a d d i t i v e s

e n v i r o n m e n ta l ly

f r i e n d ly

i n n o vat i v e C o s m e t i C r a w m at e r i a l s

Over 60 years ago, Otto Bayer and his staff developed

polyurethanes – a significant discovery that established

Bayer as a pioneer in the field of polyurethane chemistry.

Ever since, Bayer has systematically pursued the devel-

opment of polyurethanes. We now offer innovative raw

materials for the cosmetic industry based on two tech-

nology platforms:

Aqueous polyurethane film formers

Polyurea powder as a sensory additive

e n v i r o n m e n ta l ly f r i e n d ly

A unique manufacturing and filling process ensures the

production of highly pure polyurethanes:

Baycusan® products are completely free of cosolvents

like ethanol or N-methylpyrrolidone

Baycusan® products contain no preservatives

Baycusan® film formers can be used in low- or zero-VOC

hair styling products, thus meeting the most stringent en-

vironmental regulations.

e a s y t o f o r m u l at e

Baycusan® film formers offer several formulating advan-

tages compared to existing film formers:

Suitable for cold processing

High energy input not required

No neutralization required

Useful over a wide range of pH

Compatibility with commonly used cosmetic ingredients

m u lt i f u n C t i o n a l r a w m at e r i a l

The Baycusan® product line is truly diverse: It is designed

for skin care, sun care, hair styling and color cosmetic

applications. Polyurethanes meet many challenges of

formulating elegant and up to date cosmetic products

due to their versatility and beautiful aesthetics. Aqueous

Baycusan® film former products form a clear, odorless

film on skin and hair. The process enables the design of

unique polymer structures with the following attributes:

Non-tacky, non-greasy and smooth skin feeling

Unique film elasticity and flexibility

Outstanding water/high humidity resistance

Exceptional SPF boosting effect

Baycusan® powder imparts a powdery, velvety finish on

the skin. In decorative cosmetics, Baycusan® powder

improves the spreadability, color expression and color

uniformity of formulations on the skin.

2 … 3

especially suitable suitable

b a y C u s a n ® C P o r t f o l i o

Liquid, Aqueous poLyurethAne dispersions powder

bayCusan ® C 1000 C 1001 C 1003 C 1004 C 1008 C 1005

inCi namePolyurethane-

34Polyurethane-

34Polyurethane-

32Polyurethane-

35Polyurethane-

48

Methoxy PEG-11/ Methoxy PEG-17/ HDI Isocyanurate

Trimer Crosspolymer

Solids [%] 40.0 ± 2.0 32.0 ± 2.0 50.0 ± 2.0 41.0 ± 2.0 30.0 ± 2.0 100

Avg. particle size [µm] - - - - - 30 ± 10

pH 7.5 ± 1.0 7.5 ± 1.0 7.5 ± 1.0 7.5 ± 1.0 7.0 ± 1.5 -

Viscosity [mPa·s] ≤ 500 ≤ 1000 ≤ 1000 ≤ 500 < 1000

AppLicAtions

Skin Care

Sun Care

Skin Mask

Hair Styling

Color Cosmetics

4 … 5

su

n c

Ar

ec

oL

or

co

sm

et

ics

hA

ir s

ty

Lin

G

[sun Care]

SPF boosting effect

Outstanding water resistance

Stabilization properties

No “balling” effect

Non-greasy and non-sticky “skin feeling”

High formulation flexibility

Easy to use

[Color CosmetiCs]


Excellent abrasive resistance

Good non-transfer properties

Fast drying

Good balance of hardness and flexibility

Non-greasy and non-tacky soft afterfeel on skin

Easy to remove

[hair styling]

Excellent high humidity curl retention

Natural strong hold

Strong elastic memory (style retention)

Frizz control up to 24 hours

Conditioning and detangling effect

Natural feel: non-tacky

Excellent sprayability

Easy to remove (no build-up on hair)

[SUN CARE]

Key features

SPF boosting effect


Stabilization properties

No “balling” effect

Non-greasy and non-sticky afterfeel on skin

High formulation fl exibility

Easy to use

su

n c

Ar

ec

oL

or

co

sm

et

ics

6 … 7

hA

ir s

ty

Lin

G

recommended rAw mAteriALs

trade name inCi name ChemiCal desCriPtion use

Baycusan® C 1000 Polyurethane-34Aqueous polyurethane dispersion

(40 % polymer, 60 % water)Film former for any type of

sun care formulation

physicAL properties

PhysiCal ProPerties baycusan® C 1000

Solids 40.0 ± 2.0 %

Viscosity at 23 °C ≤ 500 mPa·s

pH 7.5 ± 1.0

Glass transition temperature of polymer* -51.5 °C

Minimum film formation temperature of polymer* < 0 °C

* These values provide general information and are not part of the product specification

su

n c

Ar

ec

oL

or

co

sm

et

ics

hA

ir s

ty

Lin

G

8 … 9

f i l m f o r m at i o n

When incorporated into sun care formulations, Baycusan® C 1000 forms a highly flexible, breathable film that mimics the

movement of skin. This film creates a naturally soft feel on the skin without any tightening sensation.

To determine the breathability of Baycusan® C 1000, the water vapor transmission of its film on hydrated vitro skin was meas-

ured. For comparison, hydrated vitro skin was coated with either Baycusan® C 1000 or with a competitive polymer solution

(40 % solids) at a concentration of 2 mg/cm2. Figure 1 shows clearly that Baycusan® C 1000 forms a breathable film

whereas an acrylates copolymer film former is more occlusive than either the control or Baycusan® C 1000.

14000

16000

12000

10000

8000

6000

4000

2000

0

g/m

2 d

Figure 1: Water vapor transmission results

Controlvitro skin

Baycusan® C 1000 (as supplied)

Acrylates copolymer (40 % in Ethanol)

[APPlICATIONS]Polyurethane film former

bayCusan® C 1000

s ta b i l i Z at i o n P r o P e rt i e s

These light microscopy pictures show the effect of Baycusan® C

1000 on the structure of an oil-in-water emulsion and its influence

on the stability of the emulsion. By adding Baycusan® C 1000 in

an oil-in-water emulsion, the oil particle diameter is reduced and

the particle distribution narrow.

wat e r r e s i s ta n C e

Water resistance can be achieved in classical formulations stabilized with a low molecular weight emulsifier and in emulsifier-free formulations

(polymeric stabilizer). By using the stabilization properties of Baycusan® C 1000, in both cases, the emulsifier or polymeric stabilizer concentra-

tion can be reduced to avoid product re-emulsification by contact with water. The water resistance of oil-in-water formulations was evaluated on

four formulations based on Baycusan® C 1000 according to the COlIPA Guidelines (December, 2005) with five panelists.

formulation emulsifier system water resistance retention [% wrr-90 %Ci]

Classical formulations

RR 8020 1.0 % Polyglyceryl-3 Methylglucose Distearate 54.1

RR 8022 2.0 % Potassium Cetyl Phosphate 66.8

emulsifier-free formulations

RR 8023 0.15 % Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylates Crosspolymer (Pemulen® TR-2, lubrizol) 98.2

RR 8051 0.25 % Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylates Crosspolymer (Carbopol® ETD 2020, lubrizol) 100.0

Picture 1: light microscopy, 1 week after formulating

rr 8021 without bayCusan® C 1000 rr 8021 with 5 wt. % bayCusan® C 1000

su

n c

Ar

ec

oL

or

co

sm

et

ics

hA

ir s

ty

Lin

G

10 … 11

s P f b o o s t i n g e f f e C t

Figure 3 shows results of in vivo SPF measurement of oil-in-water sun care formulations containing different

UV filters.

As shown in Figure 2, Baycusan® C 1000 is an effective SPF booster with Octocrylene, Ethylhexyl Triazone,

Bis-Ethylhexyloxyphenol Methoxyphenyltriazine and Benzophenone-3.

Sun care formulations containing combination of the above mentioned UV filters with other commonly

used UV filters show analagous SPF boosting effects. As shown in Figure 3, this SPF boosting effect of

Baycusan® C 1000 is confirmed by in vitro as well as in vivo measurements.

10 % Ethylhexyl Methoxycinnamate (OMC)- A

10 % Octocrylene (OCR) - B

5 % Ethylhexyl Salicylate (OS) - C

10 % Homosalate (HMS)- D

5 % Ethylhexyl Triazone (EHT)- E

10 % Bis-Ethylhexyloxyphenol Methoxyphenyltriazine (BEMT) - F

10 % Methylene Bis-Benzoyltriazolyl Tetramethylbutylphenol (MBBT) - G

6 % Benzophenone-3 (BP-3) - H

rr 8020:

3 % Butyl Methoxydibenzoylmethane (BMDBM)

+ 10 % OCR + 5 % OS +10 % HMS

rr 8022:

5 % OS + 13 % HMS + 7 % OCR + 4 % BP-3 + 3 % BMDBM

rr 8045:

5 % OCR + 2 % BMDBM + 2 % BEMT + 1 % TiO2

rr 8051:

4 % EHT + 4 % Diethylamino Hydroxybenzoyl

Hexyl Benzoate (DHHB) + 4 % DMC + 1 % TiO2

rr 8059:

8 % OCR + 2,5 % BEMT + 2,5 % BMDBM + 1,5 % EHT + 8 % MBBT

Without film former

With 7.5 % Baycusan® C 1000 Figure 2: In vitro data for formulation with Baycusan® C 1000 Figure 3: In vivo SPF data formulations with

and without Baycusan® C 1000

30

35

25

20

15

10

5

0

In v

itro

SP

F

A B C D E F G H

2,41,9

5

12

5

24

11

33

42,7

53

12,312,7

6,7

14,4


bayCusan® C 1000

51.7

60

70

50

40

30

20

10

0

In v

ivo

SP

F

RR 8020 RR 8045RR 8022

32.6

21.625.6

7.4

58.7

18.314.3

24.1

RR 8051 RR 8059

67.3

su

n c

Ar

ec

oL

or

co

sm

et

ics

12 … 13

Key features

baycusan® C polyurethane fi lm former


Excellent abrasive resistance

Good non-transfer properties

Fast drying

Non-greasy and non-tacky soft afterfeel on skin

Easy to remove

baycusan® C polyurea powder

Excellent skin feeling: powdery, velvety fi nish on skin

Outstanding pigment spreadability (even color coverage)

Enhancement of color expression

Excellent cohesive strength of product in pressed powder form

[COlOR COSMETICS]

hA

ir s

ty

Lin

G



Baycusan® C 1000 Polyurethane-34Aqueous polyurethane

dispersion (40 % polymer, 60 % water)

Film former for oil-in-water and water based color cosmetics

formulations

Baycusan® C 1004 Polyurethane-35Aqueous polyurethane

dispersion (41 % polymer, 59 % water)

Universal film former for any type of color cosmetics formulation

Baycusan® C 1005Methoxy PEG-11/Methoxy PEG-17/HDI Isocyanurate

Trimer Crosspolymer

Polyurea powder (100 % polymer)

Multifunctional sensory additive for any type of color cosmetics

formulation

physicAL properties

PhysiCal ProPerties baycusan® C 1000 baycusan® C 1004 baycusan® C 1005

Solids 40.0 ± 2.0 % 41.0 ± 2.0 % 100 %

Avg. particle size – – 30 ± 10 µm

Viscosity at 23 °C ≤ 500 mPa·s ≤ 500 mPa·s -

pH 7.5 ± 1.0 7.5 ± 1.0 -

Glass transition temperature of polymer* -51.5 °C -45.5 °C -

Minimum film formation temperature of polymer* < 0 °C < 0 °C -

* These values provide general information and are not part of the product specification

su

n c

Ar

ec

oL

or

co

sm

et

ics

hA

ir s

ty

Lin

G

14 … 15

o u t s ta n d i n g wat e r r e s i s ta n C e f o r m a s C a r a f o r m u l at i o n s

An evaluation of water resistance was conducted in vitro by applying a mascara formulation on a wool swatch under

controlled conditions. After drying, coated swatches were submerged in water under gentle stirring at 25 °C for 30 mi-

nutes. The water resistance was measured as the difference in color lightness (l*) and weight of the mascara layer before

and after immersion. Oil-in-water mascara formulations containing either Baycusan® C 1000 or Baycusan® C 1004 show

improved water resistance:

79 % improvement in color retention in case of Baycusan® C 1000.

63 % improvement in color retention in case of Baycusan® C 1004.

Reduction of the weight loss of about 70 % with either Baycusan® C 1000 or Baycusan® C 1004.


bayCusan® C 1000 and C 1004

Color retention [%]

Weight retention [%]

0

20

40

60

80

100

120

Ret

entio

n [%

]

No film former Baycusan® C 1004 Baycusan® C 1000 PU dispersion 1 Acrylates copolymer 1 Acrylates copolymer 2

95,3

84,990,2

38,1

82,278,4

68,2

87,9

77,9

49,8

91,9

84

Figure 4: Color retention & weight retention results

e X C e l l e n t r u b r e s i s ta n C e f o r m a s C a r a a n d e y e l i n e r f o r m u l at i o n s

Baycusan® C 1004 imparts superior rub-off resistance to color cosmetics formulations and is therefore an excellent choice for formulating water-

proof and rub-off resistant mascaras and eyeliners. Those excellent rub-off resistance properties of a mascara formulation (RR 8017) are dem-

onstrated in Picture 2.

warm taP water 10 seConds gentle rubbing

bayCusan® C 1004

no film former

bayCusan® C 1004

no film former

Picture 2: Rub-off resistant results

su

n c

Ar

ec

oL

or

co

sm

et

ics

hA

ir s

ty

Lin

G

16 … 17

i m m e d i at e n o n - t r a n s f e r P r o P e rt i e s

The evaluation of non-transfer properties was conducted in vivo by spreading a fixed amount of foundation onto the

forearm of volunteers under controlled conditions. After drying, the volunteers left an imprint of their forearm on a sheet

of absorbing paper.

As shown in Picture 3, the imprints left from different foundation formulations containing Baycusan® C 1004 are signifi-

cantly reduced compared to standard formulations without Baycusan® C 1004.

o/w

standard bayCusan® C 1004

w/o


w/s


Picture 3: Results of imprints


bayCusan® C 1000 and C 1004

[APPlICATIONS]P o ly u r e a P o w d e r

b ay C u s a n ® C 1 0 0 5

e l e g a n t f i n i s h a n d l u X u r i o u s f e e l

Sensory evaluation was performed on a liquid foundation containing Baycusan® C 1005 and compared to a negative control (without powder).

As illustrated below, in the sensory profile chart, Baycusan® C 1005 provides better spreadability and a powdery and less tacky afterfeel on

the skin. Furthermore, Baycusan® C 1005 imparts superior even-color coverage and color brightness in the formulation in comparison to a

negative control.

15,0

12,0

9,0

6,0

3,0

0,0

Transferability*

Fluidity

Consistence

Thickness

Powdery sensation

Easiness of spreading

Velvety skin

Oily skin

Stickiness

Powdery touch

Brightness of the colour

Covering effect

Uniformity

Velvety effect

Shining skin

Comment: The attributes were quantified on linear

scales from 0 to 15. 0 means that the attribute is

not detectable and 15 means 100 % detectable.

The attributes with an asterisk (*) are significant.

Control Baycusan® C 1005

sensory Profile of a liquid found ation (Performed by dermsCan):

su

n c

Ar

ec

oL

or

co

sm

et

ics

hA

ir s

ty

Lin

G

18 … 19

enhanCement of Color eXPression in liPstiCKs

Baycusan® C 1005 positively affects the pigment spreadability of any type

of pigmented formulation. This excellent pigment spreadability is demon-

strated by an even color distribution on skin (better color pay-off) and a

better coverage, as shown in picture 4 in case of a lipstick formulation.

Picture 4: From left to right: control formulation 1 (with a com-

petitive powder 1), control formulation 2 (with a competitive

powder 2), formulation with 4,7 wt. % Baycusan® C 1005

(formulation RR 8028).

Figure 5 displays the infl uence of Baycusan® C 1005 and other widely used powders like Nylon-12, Silica, Polyethylene

etc. on the cohesive strength of an eyeshadow pressed powder, at a concentration of 2 wt. % active. In order to quantify

the cohesive strength of the pressed powders, a drop test was performed: 10 times onto cement from a height of 30 cm.

The number of drops required to produce cracks in the pressed powder was noted. As shown in Figure 5, Baycusan® C 1005

imparts not only a powdery, velvety fi nish on skin, but improves signifi cantly the cohesive strength of the formula, too.

0

2

4

6

8

10

12

Rec

ord

ed #

of d

rop

s,

whe

n cr

acki

ng is

vis

ible

Without

10

BismuthOxychloride

3

Polyethylene

4

Methyl MethacrylaseCrosspolymer

10

Nylon-12

6

Silica

7

Calcium AluminiumBorosilicate

1

Baycusan®

C1005

no c

rack

ing

visi

ble

Figure 5: Drop test results

su

n c

Ar

ec

oL

or

co

sm

et

ics

hA

ir s

ty

Lin

G

[HAIR STYlING]

20 … 21

Key features

Excellent high humidity curl retention Natural strong hold

Strong elastic memory (style retention)

Frizz control up to 24 hours

Conditioning and detangling effect

Natural feel: non-tacky

Excellent sprayability

Easy to remove (no build-up on hair)




(32 % polymer, 68 % water)Hair styling fi lm former for any

kind of hair styling product


(30 % polymer, 70 % water)Hair styling fi lm former for any


physicAL properties

PhysiCal ProPerties baycusan® C 1001 baycusan® C 1008

Solids 32.0 ± 2.0 % 30.0 ± 2.0 %

Viscosity at 23 °C ≤ 1000 mPa·s < 1000 mPa·s

pH 7.5 ± 1.0 7.0 ± 1.5

Glass transition temperature of polymer* -51.5 °C -45.5 °C

Minimal fi lm formation temperature of polymer* < 0 °C < 5 °C

* These values provide general information and are not part of the product specifi cation

su

n c

Ar

ec

oL

or

co

sm

et

ics

hA

ir s

ty

Lin

G

22 … 23

e X C e l l e n t h i g h h u m i d i t y C u r l r e t e n t i o n

Baycusan® C 1001 and Baycusan® C 1008 provide excellent high humidity curl retention for styling formulations, even

better than market leading polyacrylate styling polymers. As shown in Figure 6, curl retention is measured as a function

of time at 75 % humidity and at 25 °C. Caucasian dark brown hair tresses were treated with an aqueous solution of

Baycusan® C 1001 and Baycusan® C 1008 at a concentration of 2 wt. % active (~0.3 g of Baycusan® C solution/0,7 g hair).

n at u r a l s t r o n g h o l d

Figure 7 shows a comparison of flexural strength tests (2 wt. % active polymer in alcoholic solution, 50 % relative humidity,

21 °C). Baycusan® C 1008 imparts a strong holding power, in the same level as state of art styling copolymers.

95

100

90

85

80

75

70

65

60

55

500 50 100 150 200 250 300 350

Time [min.]

Hig

h H

umid

ity C

url R

eten

tion

[%]

Baycusan® C 1008

Acrylate copolymer

Baycusan® C 1001




(32 % polymer, 68 % water)Hair styling film former for any



(30 % polymer, 70 % water)Hair styling film former for any


Figure 6: Results of HHCR test Figure 7: Results of flexural strength test

[APPlICATIONS]P o ly u r e t h a n e f i l m f o r m e r

b ay C u s a n ® C 1 0 0 1 a n d C 1 0 0 8

Commercial aerosol 1:

based on Acrylate copolymer

Commercial aerosol 2:

based on acrylate copolymer

and vinylpyrrolidone copolymer

Commercial gel 1:

based on vinylpyrrolidone copolymer

Commercial gel 2:

based on a mixture of

vinylpyrrolidone copolymer

Commercial aerosol 2 (extra strong hold)

Baycusan® C 1008 aerosol

Commercial gel 2(ultra strong hold)

Baycusan®

C 1008 gel

Commercial gel 1 (extra strong hold)

Maximum bending force [cN]

0 20 40 60

71

64

115

66

79

112

80 100 120

Commercial aerosol 1(extra strong hold)

s t r o n g e l a s t i C m e m o ry ( s t y l e r e t e n t i o n )

Compared to traditional fixative polymers, Baycusan® C 1001 and Baycusan® C 1008 form exceptionally

flexible films on hair. For example, below are SEM images of single knotted hair fibers coated with an

acrylate copolymer and Baycusan® C 1001. Under stress, the acrylate copolymer film becomes very

brittle, while the film on Baycusan® C 1001 remains smooth and shows no cracking.

bayCusan® C 1001 aCrylates CoPolymer

su

n c

Ar

ec

oL

or

co

sm

et

ics

hA

ir s

ty

Lin

G

24 … 25

e X C e l l e n t s t y l e r e t e n t i o n

Elasticity is one of the key characteristics of Baycusan® C 1001 and Baycusan® C 1008. This property results in excel-

lent curl resilience, as shown on Picture 5 below. The picture illustrates the change in curl retention after running fingers

through the curl (curl snap test). After 10 times, Baycusan® C 1008 clearly exhibits a superior curl retention in comparison

to an acrylate copolymer and a competitive polyurethane.

Picture 5: Results of curl snap test

bayCusan© C 1008

initial Curl

1 time

10 times

aCrylates CoPolymer ComPetitive Polyurethane

bayCusan© C 1008 aCrylates CoPolymer ComPetitive Polyurethane

bayCusan© C 1008 aCrylates CoPolymer ComPetitive Polyurethane

26 … 27

Curious? then visit us at www.bayercosmetics.com or contact us.

martin hüttner

Phone: 0049 – (0)214 – 30 81712

email: [email protected]

sophie viala

Phone: 0049 – (0)214 – 30 44762

email: [email protected]

Bayer MaterialScience AG51368 leverkusen Germany

[email protected]

The manner in which you use and the purpose to which you put and utilize our products, technical assistance and information (whether verbal, written or by way of production evaluations), including any suggested formulations and recommendations, are beyond our control. Therefore, it is imperative that you test our products, technical assistance and information to determine to your own satisfaction whether our products, technical assistance and information are suitable for your intended uses and applications. This application-specifi c analysis must at least include testing to determine suitability from a technical as well as health, safety, and environmental standpoint. Such testing has not necessarily been done by us. Unless we otherwise agree in writing, all products are sold strictly pursuant to the terms of our standard conditions of sale which are available upon request. All information and technical assistance is given without warranty or guarantee and is subject to change without notice. It is expressly understood and agreed that you assume and hereby expressly release us from all liability, in tort, contract or otherwise, incurred in connection with the use of our products, technical assistance, and information. Any statement or recommendation not contained herein is unauthorized and shall not bind us. Nothing herein shall be construed as a recommendation to use any product in confl ict with any claim of any patent relative to any material or its use. No license is implied or in fact granted under the claims of any patent.Any samples of Baycusan® products provided by Bayer MaterialScience are for testing purposes only and not for commercial use. Please also observe the information and specifi c disclaimer on our products in Cosmetic Applications under: http://www.bayercosmetics.com/bms/bms-cosmetics.nsf/id/Baycusan-DisclaimerEdition: 2013-04 · Order-No.: MS00052980 · Printed in Germany · E

give your formulation star appeal!biobiznes.net/pliki/prezentacje_firm/bayer/baycusan.pdf · (40 %...

Documents