Glossary of Wine-Tasting Terminology

“Dunărea de Jos” of Galaţi

Faculty of Letters

Bilingual Glossary of Wine-Tasting Terminology

Student: Matei Alina-Mihaela

MTI Anul I, 2011-2012

2

CONTENTS

Argument

Glossary

Corpus

Bibliography

4

5

23

27

3

ARGUMENT

Wine tasting terms can be quite confusing to one who wants to learn all about

tasting wine, most of all because wine can be quite complex, having various types

of characteristics. The more specialized, use “unique” terms to describe what they

smell, taste or feel. Some of the descriptors used by the specialists can be

described by an average person as being confusing or too advanced.

In this respect, I have tried to compile a glossary of wine-tasting terms to ease a

wine lover’s job; this way one could fully understand wine tasting notes from wine

tasting magazines or reviews, could easily join, with confidence, any wine

conversation and it will also broaden one’s wine vocabulary. From my point of view,

a glossary of wine tasting can be helpful in identifying the wines one wants to

explore. The glossary comprises more than 150 terms referring to olfactory, smell,

taste and many other terms related to wine.

There are a lot of appellations that one can use to describe a wine, most of them

referring to personal experiences of each of us. I have chosen just a small part to

translate into Romanian - the most representative from my point of view.

Most of the terms cannot be translated by using just one word, so I had to resort

to paraphrase. Moreover, some of them were translated by me the same way as

other terms had been, because they actually mean the same thing, the only

difference being the fact that their style is changed. I have chosen a corpus from

Clive Coates’ “bible” The Wines of Burgundy; he is a renown British wine writer,

best known for his books about the wines of Burgundy.

4

ACETIC (see also ASCESCENCE) acetic, oţeţitAll wines contain acetic acid - (i.e.: vinegar). Normally the amount is insignificant and may even enhance flavour. At a little less than 0.10% content, the flavour becomes noticeable and the wine is termed acetic. Above 0.10% content is considered a strong fault. A related substance, ethyl acetate, contributes the smell associated with acetic acid content.

ACID/ACIDITY (p. 12) acid/aciditateAcid - term used to describe a tart or sour taste in the mouth when total acidity of the wine is high.Acidity - term used on labels to express the total acid content of the wine. The acids referred to are citric, lactic, malic and tartaric. Desirable acid content on dry wines falls between 0.6% and 0.75% of the wines volume. For sweet wines it should not be less than 0.70% of the volume.

AFTERTASTE (p. 32) (see also FINISH, LENGTH) - a.k.a Farewell, Fairwell postgustTerm used to describe the taste left in the mouth after swallowing the wine. Both character and length of the aftertaste are part of the total evaluation. May be harsh, hot, soft and lingering, short, smooth, tannic, or nonexistent.

AGE/AGED (p. 63) (see also MADERIZED, RIM) vechi/învechitWhite wines tend to turn from a greenish hue in young wines to a yellowish caste/tone to a gold/amber colour as they age. Reds usually possess a purple tone when young, turning to a deep red - (Bordeaux wines) - or a brick red colour - (Burgundy wines) - detectable at the surface edge in a wineglass as they age. Rose's should be pink with no tinge of yellow or orange.Cellar aged red wines at their peak will show a deep golden-orange colour as it thins at the surface edge. If the wine colour has deepened into a distinctly brown-orange tint at the edge it usually indicates a wine past its peak and declining.

ALCOHOL (p. 66) (see also LEGS, TEARS) alcoolThis constituent of wine is a natural by-product of fermentation. It is one of the main pillars of perceived flavour, the others being "Acid", "residual Sugar" (and/or "Glycerin") and "Tannin". The presence of these components define a wine that has "good balance". For tablewines the wine label must, by law, state the alcohol content of the wine within the bottle, usually expressed as a percentage of the volume. Table wines do not usually exceed 14% alcohol content - (11% to 12.5% is generally considered the optimum amount) - although a few, such as the "jaune vin" of the Jura region of France are fermented in a special manner to attain consistently higher levels in the 14.5 to 15.5% range. Sweet dessert wines fall in the same range. Fortified wines - (e.g.: Sherry, Port etc) - range from 17% to 21% alcohol content.

ANGULAR (see also AUSTERE, CRISP, FRESH) angular

5

The total effect of dominant, tart-edged flavours and taste impressions in many young dry wines. Has opposite meaning to round, soft or supple.

APPLEY (p. 190) aromă de mărRefers to smell or aroma of a wine, usually carrying additional modifiers. "Ripe apples" describes a full, fruity, clean smell associated with some styles of Chardonnay wine. "Fresh apples" does the same for some types types of Riesling. "Green apple", however, is almost always reserved for wines made from barely ripe or underripe grapes. "Stale apples" applies almost exclusively to flawed wine exhibiting first stage oxidation.

AROMA (p. 203) (see also BOUQUET, NOSE) aromăThe intensity and character of the aroma can be assessed with nearly any descriptive adjective. (e.g.: from "appley" to "raisiny", "fresh" to "tired", etc.). Usually refers to the particular smell of the grape variety. The word "bouquet" is usually restricted to describing the aroma of a cellar-aged bottled wine.

ASCESCENCE acetat"Ascescence" is the term used to mark the presence of acetic acid and ethyl acetate. Detected by sweet and sour, sometimes vinegary smell and taste along with a sharp feeling in the mouth.

ASTRINGENT (p. 321) astringentDescriptive of wines that have a rough, puckery taste. Usually can be attributed to high tannin content. Tannic astringency will normally decrease with age. However, sometimes the wine fails to outlive the tannin.

ATTACK (p. 321) (see also LIGHT, THIN) atacThe initial impact of a wine. If not strong or flavourful, the wine is considered "feeble". "Feeble" wines are sometimes encountered among those vinified in a year where late rain just before harvest diluted desirable grape content.

ATTRACTIVE (p. 324) atractivThe wine taster liked it anyway; a slight put down for expensive wines, a compliment for others.

AUSTERE (p. 324) simplu, austerUsually used in description of dry, relatively hard and acidic wines that seem to lack depth and roundness. Such wines may soften a bit with age. Term often applied to wines made from noble grape varieties grown in cool climates or harvested too early in the season.

BACKBONE (p. 325) (see also BODY) structuraRefers to big, full-bodied red wines with evident tannin and/or acidity.

6

BALANCE (p. 325) echilibruDenotes harmonious balance of wine elements - (i.e.: no individual part is dominant). Acid balances the sweetness; fruit balances against oak and tannin content; alcohol is balanced against acidity and flavour. Wine not in balance may be acidic, cloying, flat or harsh etc.

BERRYLIKE (see also HERBACEOUS) aromă de fructe de pădureEquates with the ripe, sweet, fruity quality of blackberries, raspberries, cranberries and cherries. The aroma and taste of red wines, particularly Zinfandel, are often partly described with this adjective.

BIG (p. 327) puternicThe overall flavour of a wine, white or red, that has full, rich flavours. "Big" red wines are often tannic. "Big" white wines are generally high in alcohol and glycerine. Sometimes implies clumsiness, the opposite of elegance. Generally positive, but context is essential - (e.g.: A Bordeaux red wine shouldn't be as "big" as a California Cabernet Sauvignon).

BITTER (p. 361) (see also SALTY, SOUR and SWEET) amarOne of the four basic tastes. A major source of bitterness is the tannin content of a wine. Some grapes - (Gewurztraminer, Muscat) - have a distinct bitter edge to their flavour. If the bitter component dominates in the aroma or taste of a wine it is considered a fault. Sweet dessert wines may have an enhanced bitter component that complements the other flavours making for a successful overall taste balance.

BODY (p. 361) corpThe effect on the taster's palate usually experienced from a combination of alcohol, glycerine and sugar content. Often described as "full", "meaty" or "weighty".

BOTRYTIS (p. 416) Botrytis Cinerea (Putregaiul cenuşiu, Putregai nobil)"Botrytis Cinerea", a mold or fungus that attacks grapes in humid climate conditions, causing the concentration of sugar and acid content by making grapes at a certain level of maturity shrivel. On the Riesling grape it allows a uniquely aromatic and flavourful wine to be made, resulting in the extraordinary "Beerenauslese" style of wine.

BOUQUET (p. 119) (see NOSE) buchetNear synonymous with "aroma". Term generally restricted to description of odours from poured bottled wines.

BRAWNY agresiv

7

Term used mainly to describe young red wines with high alcohol and tannin levels. Certain red wines from Amador County, California, can be examples. The mild epithet "tooth-stainers" is sometimes applied to this style of wine, denoting respect for strength.

BREATHE/BREATHING (p. 730) (see also OPEN-UP) aerareDenotes the act of allowing the wine to "breathe"; ie: when wine is poured into another container, such as a wineglass, the admixture of air seems to release pent-up aromas which then become more pronounced, in many cases, as minutes/hours pass.

BREED (p. 734) (see also COMPLEX, ELEGANT) cu greutate, nobilTerm reserved for wines from the best grape varieties, the so-called "noble grapes". Denotes wines judged to have reached classical expectations of aroma, balance, structure and varietal character.

BRIARY aspru, agresivDenotes a wine having an aggressive, prickly taste best described as "peppery". Sometimes combined with the adjective "brawny" to characterize a young red wine with high alcohol and tannin content.

BRILLIANT (p. 744) (see also CLOUDY, HAZY, UNFILTERED) limpede cristalinVery clear (and transparent in white wines) appearance with no visible particulates or suspensions. May be sign of flavour deficiency in heavily filtered wines.

BROWNING (p. 705) (see also MADERIZED, OXIDIZED, RIM) oxidareDenotes ageing in a wine. Young wine colour tints show no sign of such "browning". If possessed of good character and depth, a wine can still be very enjoyable even with a pronounced "brown" tint. In average wines this tint, seen along the wine surface edge in a tilted glass goblet, normally signals a wine is "past its peak", although still very drinkable.

BUTTERY (p. 13) (see also CREAMY, MALOLACTIC FERMENTATION) untosDescribes taste sensation found in better white wines, particularly Chardonnay.

CEDAR/CEDAR WOOD (p. 707) (see also CIGARBOX) aromă de cedruAroma component often found in fine red wines.

CHARMING (p. 49) îmbietor, şarmant, atrăgătorA patronizing comment applied to wines that don't quite fulfil the first expectations. Implies lightness, an expression of "attitude". Sometimes used to describe certain wines made from the Chenin Blanc grape and styled after a type of wine originating from the Loire region of France.

8

CHEWY (p. 732) gustos, savurosRefers to a high total tannic component of a wine. Figuratively, one cannot swallow this wine without chewing first.

CIGAR-BOX (p. 12 ) aromă de cutie de trabucNear synonym for "tobacco" aroma detected in the nose, especially if a "cedar wood" component is present. Spanish cedar wood is the traditional material for making cigar boxes.

CITRUSY citricDescribes aroma and flavour reminiscent of citrus fruits. Most common is a perception of "grapefruit" content. Most often detected in white wines made from grapes grown in cooler regions of California or other countries.

CLOSED-IN (p. 120) (see also DUMB, OPEN-UP) închisTerm descriptive of currently poor character definition but with all the correct characteristics. Usually expected to develop with age. Applies mainly to young, intense wines vinified for long life expectancy.

CLOUDY (p. 810) (see also BRILLIANT, HAZY) tulbureOpposite of clear. Noticeable cloudiness is undesirable except in cellar aged wines that have not been decanted properly. A characteristic of some unfiltered wines showing the result of winemaking mistakes and often possessing an unpleasant taste.

CLOYING (p. 326) (see also SWEET) siropos, prea dulceExcessive sugar component annoys with dominating flavour and aftertaste. The wine is then demonstrably unbalanced relative to the other components.

COMPLEX (p. 327) (see also ELEGANT) complexAlmost a synonym for "breed". Possesses that elusive quality where many layers of flavour separate a great wine from a very good one. Balance combines all flavour and taste components in almost miraculous harmony.

CREAMY (p. 368) mătăsosRefers to "silk-like" taste of some wines. Almost a synonym for "buttery". Opposite of "crisp".

CRISP (p. 370) proaspăt, crocantWine has pronounced but pleasing tartness, acidity. Fresh, young and eager, begs to be drunk. Generally used to describe white wines only, especially those of Muscadet de Sevres et Maine from the Loire region of France.

DECANTING (p. 784) decantare

9

A method by which cellar-aged bottled wine is poured slowly and carefully into a second vessel, usually a glass decanter, in order to leave any sediment in the original bottle before serving. Almost always a treatment confined to red wines. The traditional method uses a candle flame as the light for illuminating the neck of the bottle while the wine is passing by. The low intensity of the light is ideal for viewing since it does not strain the eyes. Care must be taken NOT to allow the flame to heat the wine while performing this ritual.

DELICATE (p. 784) delicatAny wine demonstrating somewhat mild, but attractive characteristics. Occasionally used to describe well-made wines from the so-called "lesser grape" varieties.

DEPTH, DEEP (p. 784) (see also LINGERING) adâncime, complexitateRefers to a premium wine that demands more attention, it fills the mouth with a developing flavour, there are subtle layers of flavour that go "deep."

DESSERT WINE fortifiat, licoros; vin dulce, de desertHas two meanings: 1. Fortified wine - e.g.: Sherry - where alcohol is added in the form of Brandy or neutral spirits. 2. Sweet or very sweet wines of any alcohol level customarily drunk with dessert or by themselves and usually in small amounts.

DIRECT (see also EASY, SIMPLE) directEverything present in this wine is immediately obvious.

DIRTY (p. 63) (see also YEASTY/YEASTLIKE) murder, miros de răsuflatDescribes any of the undesirable odours that can be present in a wine that that was poorly vinified. A characteristic imparted by improperly cleaned barrels or various other processes performed incorrectly. Usually detected first in a wine by the smell of the cork stopper or from a barrel sample.

DRY (p. 243) vin secDescription of a wine made deliberately to possess little or no sweetness. Commonly defined as containing less than about 0.5% residual sugar.

DUMB (p. 341) obtuz, închisCharacteristic description of a young wine with yet-to-develop aromas and flavours. A synonym for "closed-in". Named so because it seems "unable to speak".

EARTHY (p. 356) (see also NOSE, STONEY, VEGETAL, YEASTY/YEASTLIKE) pamântos

10

Covers situations where a "mother-earth" component is present. Earth is soil-dirt, but an earthy wine is not dirty as in "DIRTY" above. The term appears to be applicable to wine thought, by some, to be made from grapes grown on vines planted in land previously used for growing certain vegetables containing components which "marked" the soil in some way.

EASY (p. 373) (see also DIRECT, SIMPLE) uşorUndemanding but pleasant, doesn't require good taste, just tastes good.

ELEGANT (p. 374) (see also COMPLEX) elegantWhat to say when there is great balance and grace in the wine, but you can't quite find apt words of description. Almost a synonym for "breed".

ESSENCE (p. 376) (see also NOSE) esenţăTwo meanings: 1. Refers to "odour kits" containing vials of representative flavour essence. 2. Used occasionally by wineries to describe a late harvest, sweet red wine. Most frequently appears on bottle labels for Zinfandel red wine made from grapes picked at 35 deg. Brix or higher sugar content.

ETHYL ACETATE acetat de etilA substance which contributes the smell associated with acetic acid content.

FAT (p. 376) plinFills the mouth without aggression. The wine "feels" and tastes a little obvious and often lacks elegance but is prized by connoisseurs of sweet dessert wines. Not quite right even for a late harvest Moselle Riesling, but just right for a classic Sauternes. Fatness/oiliness is determined by the naturally occurring glycerol - (a.k.a glycerine) - content in the wine.

FILTERED filtratWines that have had suspended particulates resulting from the fermentation process removed. Important for future clarity and stability of a wine.

FINING (p. 28) limpezireUse of various materials for clarifying wines. These materials precipitate to the bottom of the fermentation process vessel carrying any suspended particulate matter with them.

FINISH (p. 323) (see AFTERTASTE) finişAs in "this wine has a (whatever) finish".

FIRM (p. 329) (see AUSTERE) serios, tareAttacks the palate with acid or tannic astringency. Suggests that the wine is young and will age. Nearly always a positive comment and very desirable with highly flavoured foods.

11

FLAT (p. 400) (see also MEAGER, THIN) platOpposite of "firm". Usually indicates very low acidity, so tasting insipid and lacking flavour.

FLESHY viguros, cu textură bogatăRefers to both body and texture. A fleshy wine tastes fatter than a meaty wine, exhibiting some excess oiliness if too pronounced. Often suggests great smoothness and richness.

FLINT/FLINTY mineralSynonym for "stony". Derived from French phrase "gout de pierre a fusil", literally a flinty taste. These terms are presumably metaphorical approximations based on the actual taste sensations allegedly experienced when stones/minerals are licked (older books on chemistry etc. always included the taste, feel and smell of the compounds being described). Presumably refers to rate of moisture absorption etc by different stone surfaces and detectable by the tongue. "Flinty" describes an initial evaluation indicating a young white wine made from cool region grapes under cold fermentation conditions. Characterized by high acidity, a tactile "mouth feel" that is filling and yet has a flavour sensation that is cleanly "earthy".

FLORAL/FLOWERY (p. 419) (see also NOSE) floralSuggests the aroma or taste, usually aroma, of flowers in wine. "Floral" usually employed as an adjective without modifier to describe attributes of white wine aromas. Few red wines have floral aromas.

FORWARD (p. 419) directOpposite of "closed-in". Means presence of "fruitiness" is immediately apparent.

FOXY (see also GRAPEY, VITIS LABRUSCA) miros de ploşniţă, foxatCommon descriptive word used to note the presence of the unique musky and grapey character attached to native American Vitis. Labrusca grapes such as the Concord or Catawba varieties. Derived from the French phrase "gout de renard" which literally translates as "odour" or "taste" of fox, but means something more like "presence of fox" in the intangible sense. The aroma and flavours defy verbal description. The best way to imprint "foxiness" in the memory is to mentally compare the flavours of fresh Concord grapes and any fresh California table grape. Most people find the juice or jelly from the Concord grape quite sprightly and delicious. In dry table wines that same flavour is considered obtrusive and even quite disagreeable.

FRESH (p. 419) proaspăt

12

Implies the lively fruity acidity, maybe a little bite of acid, found in youthful light reds, rose's and most whites. All young whites should be fresh. The opposite is flatness, staleness.

FRUITY (p. 420) fructatUsed for any quality that refers to the body and richness of a wine made from good, ripe grapes. A fruity wine has an "apple like", "berrylike" or herbaceous character. "Fruitiness" usually implies a little extra sweetness.

FULL-BODIED (p. 503) corpolentAs opposed to "thin" or "thin-bodied". Fills the mouth, has a winey taste, alcohol is present, the wine has "weight on the tongue".

FUNKY (p. 658) ciudat1970's jargon word. Defies precise definition. Used by some Canadian tasters when reviewing provincial Liquor Control Board offerings.

GAMEY/GAMELIKE (p. 682) (see also NOSE) aroma de vânatDescriptive term for one of the flavours/aromas considered particular to Burgundian style Pinot Noir red wines. Reminiscent of taste and flavour associated with cooked wild duck and other "gamey" meats. Thought to be caused by contamination with "brett" - (brettanomyces strain of yeast). Considered a major flaw when flavour is overly-pronounced.

GLYCERIN/GLYCEROL (p. 757) glicerol/glicerinăGives a sweet taste on the tongue tip. Higher concentrations are found in high-alcohol and late-harvest wines, leading to sensations of smooth slipperiness giving a sense of fullness to the wine body. It is a natural by-product of the fermentation process.

GRAPEFRUIT/ GRAPEFRUITY (p. 785) aromă de grefăGrapefruit flavours are characteristic of cool-climate Chardonnays. See citrusy.

GRAPEY (see also VITIS LABRUSCA) (p. 801) aromă de strugureContent has simple flavours and aromas reminiscent of a certain type of fresh wine or table grape. Used by some as adjective alternate for "foxy".

GRASSY ierbosSlightly vegetal-tasting undertone often part of the overall character of Sauvignon Blanc and certain other grape varietals. European tasters sometimes use the word "gooseberry" to describe this flavour. In minute presence it can enhance flavours. As it becomes more dominant the more it loses appeal leading to unattractiveness.

GREEN (p. 22) (see also ANGULAR) necopt, verde

13

Strictly applied refers to the taste of wines made with under ripe fruit. More loosely used it refers to some white wines, especially Riesling, possessing the greenish colour tint indicating youth; does not necessarily mean the sour and/or grassy taste of unripe fruit content as well.

HARD (p. 49) greuHigh acidity and/or tannin content leading to a sensation of dryness in the mouth, a degree of puckeryness. Useful for detecting young red wines suitable for aging. Characteristic preferred in dry white wines that will accompany shellfish.

HARSH (p. 501) aspru, astringentVery astringent wines, usually with high alcohol component, often have this rough, rustic taste characteristic. May become more tolerable with ageing but also may not be worth the wait.

HAZE/HAZY (p. 677) (see also BRILLIANT, CLOUDY, FILTERED) tulbureRefers to wines with slight particulate content when viewed against the light. Occurs most often in unfiltered or unfined wines where there is no need to worry. If the haziness is intense enough to cause loss of clarity however it may indicate a flawed wine.

HEARTED/HEARTY (p. 88) (see also STURDY) aprins, generosMost often applied in description of full, warm qualities found in red wines with high alcohol component. Examples are found in the sturdier so-called "jug wines", some California Zinfandels, lesser French Rhone or Algerian red wines and in the occasional lesser Australian Shiraz.

HERBACEOUS (p. 370) (see also GRASSY) ierbosAdjective used in description of wine with taste and aroma of herbs, (usually undefined). Considered to be a varietal characteristic of Cabernet Sauvignon, and to less extent, Merlot and Sauvignon Blanc grapes.

HOLLOW (p. 383) (see also AFTERTASTE) searbăd, golMissing middle between "attack" and "finish". Caused by too many grapes on insufficiently pruned vines. If very noticeable, called "empty".

HOT (p. 408) (see also AFTERTASTE) cald, firbinteDefines a wine high in alcohol and giving a prickly or burning sensation on the palate. Accepted in fortified wines, but not considered as a particularly desirable attribute in Cabernet Sauvignon or Chardonnay. Positively undesirable in light, fruity wines, (e.g.: Moselle Rieslings).

JAMLIKE/JAMMY (p. 538) gemos

14

Word most often encountered in descriptions of California Zinfandel wines made with Amador County grapes. Refers to the natural berrylike taste of this grape.

LEAFY (p. 508) (see YEASTY/YEASTLIKE) vegetalSomewhat analogous to "vegetal". Desirable in minute detectable amounts, if adding to notes of complexity in the wine.

LEAN (p. 509) (see also BODY, THIN) subţire, liniarMore body would be good, sort of thin in the mouth, often too much astringency, sometimes a compliment for certain styles.

LEES (p. 24) (see also NUTTY) drojdie Refers to residual yeast and other particles that precipitate, or are carried by the action of "fining", to the bottom of the fermentation vessel. US winemakers use the term "mud". Imparts distinctive flavours to the wine depending on type. Derived from French term "lies" as in "sur lies".

LEGS (see also FIRM, TEARS) picioare; echilibruTwo interpretations. 1. Term used when referring to the liquid rivulets that form on the inside of a wineglass bowl after the wine is swirled in order to evaluate the alcohol concentration present. Usually the higher the alcohol content, the more impressive the rivulets appear because of reduced surface tension effects. (Some still cling to the erroneous belief that glycerine content causes these rivulets). Valuable technique when used in "blind" tasting competitions. 2. Alternatively, is used by some as a near synonym for "balance" as in "This wine has legs", i.e.: underpinnings. Indicates the wine has all the basic characteristics looked for in when making an initial assessment.

LEMONY (p. 474) aromă de lămâieDescriptive of a somewhat acidic white wine. These wines contain flavours reminiscent of that fruit. Apart from that, may be well balanced in all other respects, sometimes with a touch of extra sweetness.

LENGTH (p. 476) (see also AFTERTASTE) lungimeHow long the total flavour lasts in the back of the throat after swallowing. Counted in time-seconds. Ten seconds is good, fifteen is great, twenty is superb. Almost a synonym for "finish", as in "this is a wine with an long, extraordinary finish".

LIGHT (p. 490) light, uşorLow alcohol and/or sugar. Since about 1981 a wine containing fewer calories per comparable serving than a regular glass of wine has been legally designated as such. Used as a tasting term, "light" is usually a polite expression meaning "watery".

15

LINGERING (p. 605) (see AFTERTASTE, LENGTH) persistent

LIVELY (p. 696) proaspăt, vioi, energicAlmost a synonym for fresh. Implies detection of barely discernible spritzyness. Applies most often to white wines, but some reds also qualify.

LUSH (p. 724) (see also SWEET) ampluDescribes impression of wines with high amounts of residual sugar. Adjective almost entirely reserved for sweet dessert wines.

MADERIZED madeirizat, oxidatDistinctive brown colour in wine due usually to period of air exposure. Regarded as synonym for "oxidized". Originates from the taste/appearance of Madeira wines. "Sherrified" is commonly used synonym.

MALOLACTIC FERMENTATION fermentaţie malolacticăSecondary fermentation occasionally detected in bottled wines. Its action converts the naturally occurring Malic acid into Lactic acid plus Carbon Dioxide gas. Reduces total acidity by this action. Since the gas is contaminated with undesirable odours, if it remains trapped in the bottle it becomes a minor fault unless allowed to dissipate. Malolactic fermentation is a commonly used technique for reducing the sharpness of cool climate Chardonnays and the Lactic acid component gives an admired "creamy" or "buttery" texture.

MATCHSTICK miros de chibritDescribes the odour of Sulphur Dioxide gas, described by some as similar to the smell of "burnt matches", found in minute amounts very occasionally trapped in bottled white wines. Dissipates with airing or decanting.

MEAGER (p. 669) (see also THIN, WATERY) subţire, fără corp, diluatLacks "body" and "depth". Has definite feeling of flavour dilution. Seems to occur in some select varietal wines vinified from grapes subjected to late season rain, although there are other explanations as well.

MEATY (p. 671) (see also FAT, OILY) cărnosWith much body as though you could chew it. The reference is to lean meat, so indicates less body present than "fleshy".

MOUTH-FEEL/MOUTH-FILLING (p. 17) plinWines possessing intense flavours which seem to affect every sensory nerve in the mouth. Usually slightly high glycerine component, slightly low acid.

MUSTY (also see DIRTY) miros de mucegai

16

A wine that displays unpleasant "mildew" or "mouldy" aromas. Results from improperly cleaned storage vessels, mouldy grapes or cork.

NOSE (p. 191) nasNot the fleshy sense-organ/projection on the human face. Is near synonym word for "aroma" and includes "bouquet". Strictly applied it refers to the totality of the detectable odour, (grape variety, vinous character, fermentation smells), whether desirable or defective, found in a wine. One would speak of a mature wine as having, for example, "varietal aromas, flowery bouquet and hint of vanilla oak combining to give balanced nose".The sense organs of the human nose can be educated by the use of purchased odour comparison kits known by such names as "Le Nez du Vin", "Component Collection" or "Winealyser". These can sometimes be obtained at the various Home Wine Makers mail suppliers (etc.) around the country.

NOUVEAU (a.k.a. "Nuevo") tânărIndicates young, immediately drinkable wine - (e.g.: "nouveau Beaujolais").

NUTTY (p. 245) (see also MADERIZED, OXIDIZED) aromă de nuci, râncedTable wines that have been exposed to air display this aroma which resembles that of certain sherry wines. Considered a flaw by some in red wines, but a desired flavour component in certain white wines by others. (e.g.: Chardonnays with extended "lees" contact in the fermentation vessel).

OAKY (p. 250) aromă de stejarThe taste or aroma of freshly sawn oak. When a wine, especially a red, is "oaked" just right, the "nose" will carry a bare whiff of vanilla aroma. Sometimes, oak flavours overpower other component wine flavours, in which case it is considered overoaked. Oak flavour is introduced from contact with storage barrels made from that wood. New oak barrels contribute stronger flavour to a wine than older storage barrels. The "oaky" components encountered include "vanillin", and so-called "toasty" "charred" or "roasted" elements. "Vanillin" comes from the character of the hardwood. The three others derive from the "charring" of the barrel which occurs from heating the iron stave-rings which hold the barrel staves in place after contraction and the flaming of the interior.

OILY (p. 318) (see also FAT, GLYCERIN/GLYCEROL) mieros, onctuos, uleiosDescribes the vaguely fat, slippery sensation on the palate in contact with the combination of high glycerine and slightly low acid content. Mostly encountered in high quality Chardonnays and late harvest sweet wines.

OPEN UP/OPENING UP (p. 647)(see also CLOSED-IN) deschidereSome bottled cellar-aged red wines possess the peculiarity that, when the cork is first pulled and the wine poured, the full flavours do not immediately make an appearance. However, after the passage of several minutes in an

17

open glass goblet, the wine develops unsuspected flavour characteristics that can verge on the sublime. This phenomenon is referred to as "opening-up". Conversely, these flavours can disappear just as fast in just 30 minutes, leaving a subsequent impression of a flat, stale, "over-the-hill" and/or mediocre wine.

OVERRIPE (p. 695) supra coptA grape precondition necessary for making certain styles of Californian Zinfandel wines. Left on the vine to dry in the sun, certain grape varietals will develop the desirable "raisiny" character and concentrated sugar necessary for making specialty wines such as the famous Hungarian Tokay.

OXIDIZED (see MADERIZED, NUTTY) oxidat

PEPPERY (p. 519) piperat, condimentatTerm almost solely applied to "spicy" wines, such as Gewurztraminer among the whites, or the red Rhone Syrah and Australian Shiraz wines. Component which can almost be described as pungent in quality, being reminiscent of anise, cinnamon etc.

PERFUMED (p. 520) (see CANDYLIKE, FLOWERY) parfumatSynonym for "floral". Implies also a degree of extra residual sugar.

PLUMP (p. 521) corpolent, rotund, armoniosThe diminutive of "fat", also implying a degree of "charm" as well.

PONDEROUS prea alcoolic, greoiEven less balanced than a "hearty" or "sturdy" wine. The sole impact is one of high alcohol and "body" character. Little or no acid/tannin content. An everyday red wine, similar to a French "vin ordinaire" country wine sold by alcohol content, can be an example.

POWERFUL (p. 533) puternic, vigurosClose to being a synonym for BRAWNY.

PRUNEY (p. 658) miros si gust de prună uscatăOverripe, sun-dried grapes can induce an undesirable pungent quality into table wines; sometimes compared to "the taste of dried prunes".

PUCKERY (see also HARD, TANNIC) care lasă gura pungă, astringentSynonym for ASTRINGENT.

RACKING (p. 8) (see also FILTERED, FINED) limpezireTraditional method of wine clarification. Sequential transfer of wine to several containers, each transfer leaving behind some particulate matter.

18

RAISINNY (p. 351) aromă de stafidăMildly rich flavour due to excessive heat in the growing area which dries out grapes still on the vine. Considered a fault in most dry table wines.

REFINED rafinatTerm for well-balanced wines. Mostly refers to reds, such as Zinfandel, which normally turn "powerful" in the barrel. Almost a synonym for "elegant".

RESIDUAL SUGAR (p. 472) (see also SWEET) zahăr rezidualPercentage, by weight or volume, of the unfermented grape sugar in a bottled wine.

RICH (p. 473) generous, bogatGiving a full, opulent flavour impression without necessarily being sweet. Richness supplied by alcohol, glycerine and oak vanilla nuances in dry wine. The sweeter wines qualify for this adjective if also characterized by ripe, fruity flavours.

RIM (p. 631) (see also AGE/AGING, BROWNING, LEGS) bordurăRefers to edge of wine surface as seen through a "balloon" style wineglass held at an angle of about 30-40 deg. from the vertical and viewed against white piece of paper or cloth using natural light . Used in evaluation of wine age. In "blind" tasting is about the only way to get an informed perception about the probable life and/or condition of the wine from that date on.

RIPE (p. 632) coptFavourable adjective bestowed when the varietal characteristics of the grape are optimally present in a well balanced wine. Ripe-tasting wines tend toward being slightly more fruity and sweet than otherwise normal wines.

ROBUST (p. 656) (see also BRAWNY) plin, corpolent, generos, robust, vigurosVigorous, full with a lot of heart, a big scaled wine.

ROTTEN EGG miros de hidrogen sulfurat, miros de ouă clociteSmell of Hydrogen Sulphide gas in wine. Thought to be a characteristic imparted by certain yeast strains. A decided flaw.

ROUGH (see also ASTRINGENT) dur, astringentFlavour or texture give no pleasure. Acidity and/or tannin are predominant and coarse.

ROUND (p. 606) (see also REFINED) rotundDescribes flavours and tactile sensations giving a feeling of completeness with no dominating characteristic. Almost the same as fat, but with more

19

approval. Tannin, acid and glycerine are sufficiently present but appear as nuances rather than distinct flavours.

RUSTIC (p. 607) rustic, durSynonym for "rough".

SALTY (p. 282) săratOne of the four basic taste sensations detected by the human tongue. Sensed by the taste buds that lie close to the tip of the tongue and just behind.

SHARP (see also CRISP, HARD) aspru, acru, înţepător, acidExcess acid predominates, disturbing the otherwise balanced flavours.

SIMPLE (p. 453) simplu, fără personalitate, obişnuitNormal, everyday, well-vinified table wine of straightforward character.

SMOKE/SMOKY (p. 624) (see also OAKY, TOASTY, VANILLIN) miros şi gust de afumatApparently has two meanings: 1. Some use the word in the same sense as the smell/flavour that separates smoked (anything) from ordinary (anything). 2. Refers to aroma contributed by the charred oak wood in barrels. It can have a variety of impressions - (e.g.: such as the remains of a burnt-out fire). Needs a variant, such as "wood-smoke" or "barbeque smoke" or "sooty" to fully convey the meaning.

SOFT (p. 632) (see also LIGHT) uşor, delicatGenerally has low acid/tannin content. Also describes wines with low alcohol content. Consequently has little impact on the palate.

SOUR (p. 686) (see also CRISP, SHARP) acruAlmost a synonym for ACIDIC. Implies presence of acetic acid plus excess acid component. (Is also one of the four basic taste sensations detected by the human tongue).

SPICY (p. 687) condimentatAlmost a synonym for "peppery". Implies a softer, more rounded flavour nuance however.

SPRITZY (see also LIVELY) şpriţat, cu o uşoară efervescenţăConsidered a fairly minor fault stemming sometimes from the onset of a brief secondary malolactic fermentation in the bottle. Consists of pinpoint carbonation typically released when the bottle cork is pulled. Frowned on more if occurring in white wines vinified to be dry.

20

STALE (see also TANKY) fără viaţă, “mut”, învechit, trecutWine with lifeless, stagnant qualities. Usually found in wines that were kept in large vessel storage for an excessive length of time.

STONEY/STONELIKE (see also FLINT/FLINTY) aromă de piatră udă, mineralDescribes a set of perceptions that seem to indicate a relatively young white wine fermented from ripe, but not overly so, grapes under cold fermentation conditions. Classic examples are made from Chardonnay grapes in the Chablis region of France. Wines from the Carneros region of the Napa Valley in California are sometimes so described as well. High acidity coupled with a tactile, mouth-filling sensation that has a cleanly "earthy" flavour characterize this type of wine. Term is commonly used to describe initial impact, as in "Ah, that’s a flinty", (or stony), "wine".

STRUCTURE (p. 116) structurăThe flavour plan, so to speak. Suggests completeness of the wine, all parts there. Term needs a modifier in order to mean something - (e.g.: "brawny" etc).

STURDY (p. 131) (see also HEARTY) robust, puternic

STYLISH (p. 141) (see also LIVELY) stilat, sobruThe style is bold and definite, jaunty and a little pesky.

SUPPLE (p. 203) supluTerm often used for young reds which should be more aggressive. More lively than an easy wine with suggestions of good quality. The near synonym "amiable" is also sometimes employed but does not quite emphasise the extra connotation of "leanness" implied.

SWEET (p. 321) (see also CLOYING, RICH, RIPE) dulceRefers to one of the four basic tastes detected by the sensory nerves of the human tongue. In the description of wine taste-flavour the term "sweet" is almost always used as an identifier denoting the presence of residual sugar and/or glycerine. Wine aromas require a descriptive term to identify the source of the perceived sensation - (e.g.: "ripe", "lush").

TANKY fără personalitate, cu durata învechirii depăşităSynonym for "stale".

TANNIN (p. 321) (see also ASTRINGENT, PUCKERY) taninA naturally occurring substance in grape skins, seeds and stems. Is primarily responsible for the basic "bitter" component in wines. Acts as a natural preservative, helping the development and, in the right proportion, balance of the wine. It is considered a fault when present in excess.

21

TARRY/TARLIKE miros de mercaptan, de smoală, de gudronDescriptive term used when comparing odour detected in the "nose" of a wine with similar odour retained in a memory trained by the use of a comparison kit of scent essences. Such kits include tar, mercaptan, apricots, mushrooms and other flavour essences isolated from wines.

TART/TARTY (p. 349) (see also SHARP, SOUR) acidulat, înţepător, aspruSynonym for "acidic".

TASTE (p. 609) gustThe four basic sensations detectable by the human tongue. The tip of the tongue contains the taste receptors registering "sweetness". Just a little further back, at the sides, taste will appear "salty". Behind that, flavour will have a "sour" taste at the sides, finally dissolving into "bitterness" at the near center-rear of the tongue.

TEARS (see also ALCOHOL) picioareSynonym for "legs".

THIN/THIN-BODIED (p. 41) (see also LIGHT, MEAGER) subţireOpposite of "full-bodied".

TIGHT (p. 259) (see also ANGULAR, CLOSED-IN, HARD) închisA term for young wines. Almost an synonym for "dumb".

TOASTY (p. 636) (see also OAKY, SMOKE/SMOKY, VANILLIN) cu gust caramelizatOther, similar descriptors are "caramel" and "toffee". Some also add spicy flavours, such as "cinnamon" or "cloves".

TOBACCO aromă de tutunDescriptive term, used by some, to describe a flavour component resembling the taste of raw tobacco leaf in the finish of certain red wines. Seems to mainly apply to Cabernet Sauvignons from Bordeaux, France or the Napa region of California. "Cigarbox" is a common term often used as a near synonym especially if a cedar-wood note in the aroma is detected. (Non-smokers may have trouble with this word and its implication).

UNDERIPE (see also ACIDIC, GREEN) necoptResulting flavour when grapes that failed to reach optimum maturity on the vine are used in the vinification process.

UNFILTERED nefiltratOpposite of "filtered". However, does not exclude other clarifying processes such as "fining" etc.

22

UNFINED nelimpezitOpposite of "fined". However, does not exclude other clarifying processes such as "filtering" etc.

VANILLA (p. 12) (see also SWEET, TARLIKE) vanilatComponent detectable in the "nose" of a wine. The novice taster can compare odours with the vials of artificial ones provided in kit form.

VANILLIN vanilinăComponent contributed by oak wood barrel staves. Considered to add a degree of "sweetness" to red wines when present in barely detectable amounts, so adding to a desirably complex style prized by connoisseurs.

VARIETAL CHARACTER (see also BREED, HERBACEOUS, GRAPEY) character varietal, de soiThe particular flavour characteristics associated with a grape picked at optimum maturity - (e.g.: distinctive "berrylike" taste of California Zinfandels, "blackcurrants" of Cabernet Sauvignon etc).

VEGETAL (p. 368) (see also EARTHY, LEAFY, YEASTY/YEASTLIKE) vegetalConsidered a flavour flaw when present in distinctive amounts over and above that occurring naturally in the grape. "Grassy" has somewhat the same connotation.

VINOUS (p. 33) (see also SIMPLE) simplu, obişnuit, fadAkin to "amiable". Nothing basically wrong with the wine, just has no impact on the taster. Implies good "character", but dull experience.

VITIS LABRUSCA (see also GRAPEY) Vitis labrusca (soi Vulpe)The grape species believed to be an impure, cross-pollinated version of the wild grape native to North America. Makes tasty juice, jelly but has wine flavour often termed as "foxy".

VITIS VINIFERA (p. 11) (see also BREED, ELEGANT) Vitis vinifera (viţă de vie)The premier grape species used for the world's most admired wines. Also referred to as the "European vine".

VOLATILE (p. 430) (see also HARSH) volatil/ăPowerful, attack aroma. Usually denotes high level of acidity, alcohol and/or other flavour faults.

WARM (p. 414) cald, prea alcoolicPossesses high alcohol flavour offset by counterbalancing flavours and other desirable qualities. Unlike "hot", is a positive attribute.

WATERY (p. 430) apos

23

Synonym for MEAGER or THIN.

WEIGHTY (see also BODY) puternic, tare, vigurosWell-structured/balanced wines with an implication of mildly excessive flavour or "heaviness".

WELL BALANCED (p. 432) echilibratContains all of the essential elements - (i.e.: alcohol, flavours, acid or astringency etc.) - in good proportions.

WOODY (p. 738) cu aromă lemnoasăAlmost a synonym for OAKY. However, implies an overstay in a wooden container which resulted in the absorption of other wood flavours besides "oak".

YEASTY/YEASTLIKE (p. 601) (see also DIRTY, EARTHY, NUTTY, VEGETAL) drojdiosTerm describing odours deriving from varietal yeasts carried on grape skins, moulds etc. Includes both desirable and undesirable characteristics. Examples would be the presence of "brett" - (brettanomeyces) - a strain of yeast that produces "gamey/smoky" odours that are considered to add to the character of the wine when barely detectable. Considered a flaw when presence is pronounced. Another, similar example is the "dekkera" wild yeast strain which gives a "fresh dirt/cement-y" flavour component.

24

CORPUS

MARSANNAY

In 1987, the wines of Marsannay, hitherto simple Bourgogne, but able to be specially differentiated as Bourgogne de Marsannay or Bourgogne de Marsannay-La-Côte, were elevated to village appellation contrôlée (AC). This is the closest appellation to the city of Dijon; indeed, Marsannay and its neighbours Chenôve and Couchey, over which the vineyard over flows, are more or less suburbs of the city itself. For some years, since “invented” in the 1920s by the Domaine Clair-Daü, then one of the leading local estates, the area has been famous for its rosé, and good Pinot Noir rosé can be a delicious drink, perhaps the best rosé of all; but strangely, since the elevation to village level, the production of rosé has declined.

This, at least, is what the locals say. In fact, as rosé statistics are usually incorporated into the figure for rouge, any trend is difficult to substantiate. Today the Union Générale des Syndicats, though not the

Marsannay

În 1987, vinurile din Marsanny, cunoscute până în prezent drept vinuri de Burgogne, dar putând fi diferenţiate ca Bourgogne de Marsanny sau Bourgogne de Marsanny-La-Côte, au fost ridicate la rangul de village appellation contrôlée1. Aceasta este cea mai apropiată denumire de oraşul Dijon. Într-adevăr, Marsannay şi localităţile învecinate, Chenove şi Couchey, peste care domnesc viile, sunt un fel de suburbii ale oraşului în sine. De când a fost „inventată” în anii '20 de către domeniile Clair-Daü, pe atunci una dintre proprietăţile de primă importanţă, regiunea a devenit faimoasă de câţiva ani pentru rosé-urile sale, iar un Pinot Noir rosé bun poate fi o băutură delicioasă, poate chiar cel mai bun rosé; insă, în mod bizar, de când a fost ridicată la rangul de apelaţiune tip village, producţia de rosé-uri a scăzut.

Cel puţin asta spun localnicii. De fapt, cum statisticile rosé-urilor sunt de obicei încorporate în procentajul vinurilor roşii, orice orintare ar fi dificil de demonstrat. Astăzi Union Générale des

1 Appellation d’Origine Controlee (AOC), denumită în limba engleză “controlled designation of origin” (a.k.a. DOC) şi în limba română “denumire de origine controlată” (a.k.a DOC), este certificatul Francez accordat anumitor indicatori geografici francezi pentru vinuri, brânzeturi, tipuri de unt şi alte produse agricole, toate fiind sub auspiciul biroului guvernamental Institut National des Appellations d’Origine (INAO) (a.k.a) Este bazat pe conceptul de terroir.

25

BIVB (Bureau Interprofessionnel des Vins de Bourgogne), does publish separate figures. Since 1993 the total area under vines has grown from 174 hectares to 192, but the amount yielding rosé (where the rendement de base is 56 hl/ha, as opposed to 45 for red wine and 50 for white) has declined from 58 hectares to 31. The blanc figure represents 52 percent of the total Côte de Nuits production.

The VineyardWhile there are no first growths, let alone grands crus, in Marsannay, there are a number of officially recognised lieux-dits. The important ones are as follows: Le Boivin, Les Champs-Perdrix, Les Champs-Salomon, Le Clos de Jeu, Clos-du- Roy, Les Echézeaux, Les Etalles, Les Favières, Les Finottes, Les Genelières, Les Grandes Vignes, Les Grasses-Têtes, Les Longeroies, Dessus des Longeroies, En La Montagne, En Montchevenoy, Les Récilles, Saint-Jacques, Les Vaudenelles, Les Vignes-Maries.These occupy the land above (i.e., westward of) the Route des Grands Crus, which runs along the middle of the village. Below this road the vines can produce Marsannay rosé, but if the wine is red or white, it can only be called Bourgogne.According to Olivier Guyot, 80 percent of Marsannay is harvested by machine. He, of course, is one of the exceptions; so are Bruno Clair and Sylvain Pataille.The geology of the Marsannay slopes is complex. Essentially, it is good Bathonian or Bajocian limestone, but there are parts where this is replaced by loess or an argilo-siliceous silt, parts which are very clayey indeed, parts with an abundance of

Syndicats2, dar nu şi BIVB (Bureau Interprofessionnel des Vins de Bourgogne), publică rapoarte separate pentru fiecare din ele. Din anul 1993 întreaga zona acoperită de vii s-a extins de la 174 de hectare la 192 de hectare, însă cantitatea producţiei de rosé-uri (unde randamentul de bază este de 56 hl/ha, spre deosebire de 45 pentru vinurile roşii şi 50 pentru vinurile albe) a scăzut de la 58 de hectare la 31. Vinul alb reprezintă 52% din totalul producţiei de vinuri din zona Côte de Nuits.

PodgoriaDeşi nu există podgorii de primă clasă, ca să nu mai spunem de grands crus3, în Marsannay, sunt mai multe lieux-dits4. Cele mai importante sunt: Le Boivin, Les Champs-Perdrix, Les Champs-Salomon, Le Clos de Jeu, Clos-du- Roy, Les Echézeaux, Les Etalles, Les Favières, Les Finottes, Les Genelières, Les Grandes Vignes, Les Grasses-Têtes, Les Longeroies, Dessus des Longeroies, En La Montagne, En Montchevenoy, Les Récilles, Saint-Jacques, Les Vaudenelles, Les Vignes-Maries.Acestea din urmă ocupă regiunea de dincolo (ex.: la vest de) de Route des Grands Crus, ce trece prin mijlocul oraşului. Mai jos de acest drum viţa-de-vie poate produce rosé-ul de Marsannay, însă dacă vinul este roşu sau alb, nu poate fi numit decât Bourgogne.Conform lui Olivier Guyot, 80% din producţia de Marsannay este recoltată cu ajutorul utilajelor. El, desigur, constituie una dintre excepţii; la fel se poate spune şi despre Bruno Clair şi Sylvain Pataille.Geologia povârnişurilor din Marsanny este complexă. Mai presus de toate, sunt formate din calcar bathonian şi bajocian, dar sunt anumite

2 Uniunea Generală a Sindicatelor3 Grand cru este un termen franţuzesc care face referire la clisificarea din punct de vedere regional al vinului, clasificare ce desemnează o podgorie cunoscută pentru buna reputaţie în producerea vinului.4 Lieu-dit (pluralul: lieux-dits) este un termen toponimic franţuzesc desemnând o zonă geografica de dimensiuni mici, care poartă nume tradiţional. Numele face de obicei referire la caracteristicile acelui loc, un eveniment din trecut, etc. Un lieu-dit poate fi nelocuit, de aceea se distinge de hameau (cătun), acesta fiind locuit.

26

stone and gravel, parts where the soil resembles a black grit. Some of these are more propitious for the vine than others. Of equal importance is the shelter afforded by the Côte itself. Above Marsannay an important valley winds up into the hills. The soil is very clayey here, and the vines very exposed, leading to an abruptly cooler microclimate. This land will never make good wine, and it ought to be declassified. Yet on some of the lower, more sheltered land on the wrong side of the village, there are some gravel soils which could and do in fact make a very nice little wine.

The WineWhen the elevation to full village status occurred, leaving the northern part of Brochon as Côte-de-Nuits-Villages, an appellation which can also be applied to the wines of Fixin if the growers so wish, I remember wondering why it hadn’t been decided merely to raise the status of Marsannay to this halfway house. Why full village status, which seems to be a higher level?I cannot speak for the authority’s reasoning, but now that I know the wines better, I can view this separate village status as quite logical. The wines are, in fact, different. The Brochon-Fixin red wines are bigger, and quite sturdy, with that robustness the French call sauvage. Marsannay reds are, or should be, rather lighter, though they gain in strength as one travels from north to south. It is a mistake to give them too much backbone and muscle. There should only be medium body—there should not be an excess of oak either—and the fruit, with as much red fruit flavour as black, should be allowed to sing out. Marsannay is not serious Burgundy: it is the Côte de Nuits’s version of a Chorey-lès-Beaune or a good Bouzeron.

porţiuni în care calcarul este înlocuit de loess sau de terenuri argilo-silicioase, există regiuni în care solul este întradevăr bogat în argilă, zone în care abundă pietrişul şi regiuni în care solul se aseamănă cu grusul negru. Unele dintre ele sunt mai propice pentru podgorii decât altele. O aceeaşi importanţă o are şi adăpostul însăşi oferit de Côte. Mai sus de Marsannay o vale important se întinde până în vecinătatea dealurilor. Aici solul este bogat în argilă iar viile sunt expuse, ducând astfel către un microclimat neaşteptat de răcoros. Solul de aici nu va produce niciodată vinuri bune, astfel încât zona ar trebui declasificat. Şi totuşi în unele zone la joase şi mai adăpostite de pe partea opusă a oraşului, sunt câteva soluri pietroase care ar putea şi care pot, de altfel, să dea nişte vinuri chiar bunicele.

VinulCând a fost înnobilat cu titlul de oraş cu drepturi depline, dând la o parte partea nordică a Brochon-ului, Côte-de-Nuits-Villages, o denumire care poate fi aplicată şi vinurilor de Fixin dacă producătorii şi-ar dori asta, îmi amintesc că m-am întrebat de ce nu a fost ridicat statutul lui Marsannay măcar la stadiul de han. De ce oraş cu drepturi depline – lucru care pare să de o mult prea mare amploare?Nu pot contrazice judecata autorităţilor, dar acum că am ajuns să cunosc vinurile mai bine, pot distinge statutul acestui oraş izolat ca fiind foarte logic. Vinurile de aici sunt, de fapt, diferite. Vinurile roşii Brochon-Fixin au o savoare mai puternică şi sunt destul de robust, cu acea plinătate pe care Francezii o numesc sauvage5. Vinurile roşii de Marsannay sunt, sau ar trebui sa fie, puţin mai uşoare, deşi câştigă în intensitate pe măsură ce ne îndepărtăm de zona nordică îndreptându-ne spre cea sudică. Este o greşeală sa fie făcute prea structurat şi prea robust. Ar trebui să aibă un corp mediu – nu ar trebui să se facă nici exces de aromă de stejar –, iar fructului, având în combinaţia sa la fel de mult fruct roşu cât şi negru, ar trebui să i se

5 Termenul sauvage provine din limba Franceză şi înseamnă: sălbatic.

27

But that is no reason for it not to be a very agreeable, stylish, fruity wine for reasonably early drinking. While there is this big difference between Marsannay and Fixin rouge, there is less of a difference between the white wines, and indeed the resemblance continues into the white wines of Morey-Saint-Denis. When they are well made, such as in the cellar of Bruno Clair, where you can taste them side by side, all three—though the Marsannay is the lightest—have a crisp, fruity leanness (but lean in the best sense, which recalls a combination of apple, melon, greengage and peach). This is a long way from the honeyed butteriness of Meursault. They are best quite young, while still fresh. Incidentally, vintage years follow the quality of the local reds, which is logical, rather than the relative success of the white wine communes of the Côte de Beaune. And so to the rosé. The rosé sells for less than the red and the white, which is good from the consumer’s point of view, for I’m sure in the best cellars the rendement is not excessively higher. It can be commercial, confected and a bit sweet, if you find the wrong source; but it can be poised, racy and delightfully fruity and elegant if you stick to the best, such as those from Huguenot Père et Fils, Régis Bouvier and the aforementioned Bruno Clair. Rosé suffers from not being considered serious. But why do we have to be “serious” all the time? And surely it is no more or less serious than the red and the white. It deserves to be more popular. I would suggest that there are all manner of occasions and dishes, especially during the summer, when a Marsannay rosé would be just as appropriate as anything else—and twice as delicious.

permită să se exprime. Marsannay nu este un vin de Burgundia serios: este versiunea din Côte de Nuits a unui Chorey-lès-Beaune sau a unui vin bun de Bouzeron.Dar acesta nu este un motiv pentru care vinul nu ar trebui sa fie agreabil, stilat, fructat pentru o degustare timpurie. În timp ce exista o mare diferenţă între vinurile roşii Marsannay şi Fixin, între vinurile albe diferenţa nu este atât de vizibilă, şi cu toate astea asemănarea între vinurile din Morey-Saint-Denis continuă. Când acestea sunt bine făcute, aşa cum se întâmplă în pivniţa din Bruno Clair, unde le poţi degusta în paralel, toate trei – deşi Marsannay este cel mai uşor – au o acea prospeţime, cu mirosul şi gustul pregnant de fructe (pregnant însă în sensul bun al cuvântului, ce aduce aminte de combinaţia de măr, pepene galben, prună verzuie şi piersică). Este destul de departe faţă de aroma de miere şi unt a unui Meursault. Acestea sunt bune de băut cănd sunt tinere, cât sunt încă proaspete. Întâmplător, vinurile de colecţie urmează mai degrabă vinurile roşii locale, ceea ce este logic, decât succesul relative al comunelor producătoare de vin alb din Côte de Beaune.Şi acum să ne întoarcem la rosé-uri. Rosé-ul se vinde mai ieftin decât un vin roşu sau unul alb, ceea ce este benefic din punct de vedere al consumatorului, pentru că sunt sigur că în cramele cele mai bune randamentul nu este cu mult mai mare. Poate fi commercial, artificial şi uşor dulceag, dacă îl iei dintrun loc neportivit; dar poate fi echilibrat, puţin acid şi fermecător de fructat şi elegant dacă mergi pe vinurile cele mai bune, cum ar fi cele de la Huguenot Père et Fils, Régis Bouvier şi mai sus menţionatul Bruno Clair. Rosé-urile au de pătimit din pricina faptului că nu sunt considerate a fi vinuri serioase, cu potenţial. Dar de ce trebuie să fim “serioşi” tot timpul? Şi desigur nu este nici mai mult, nici mai puţin serios decât vinul roşu sau cel alb. Merită să fie mai popular. Sunt nenumărate ocazii şi mâncăruri, mai ales vara, când un rosé de Marsannay ar putea fi la fel de potrivit ca oricare altul – şi chiar de două ori mai savuros.

28

BIBLIOGRAPHY

Corpus

Coates, Clive MW (2008) The Wines of Burgundy, Berkeley and Los Angeles: University of California Press

Dictionaries

Academia Română (2009) Dicţionarul Explicativ al Limbii Române (2nd edition), Bucharest: Univers Enciclopedic Publishing;

***** 2009. Oxford English Dictionary, 2nd Edition, Version 4.0, Oxford University Press;

***** 2007. MACMILLAN English Dictionary for Advanced Learners, 2nd edition

Leviţchi, Leon, Bantaş, Andrei (2011) Dicţionar englez-român 70.000 de cuvinte, Bucharest: TEORA;

Webliography

Merriam Webster, on www.merriam-webster.com

29

30