20 December 2010 / January 2011, Travel DigesT

GREAT BARRIER

WHaT TO see aND DOThe Pacific Islands are a popular

destination with unspoilt white sandy beaches, but why fly three hours across the Pacific when you’ve got The Barrier right on your doorstep! Sparsely populated with large areas of rugged, un-spoilt natural beauty, it’s a place to really get away from it all. Perched on the outer edge of the Hauraki Gulf, The Barrier is home to the original Pigeon Post and steeped in history. Here you’ll discover some of New Zealand’s most pristine beaches and native bush. Its grandeur encourages outdoor activity and with more than 100km of walking tracks, great surf beaches, tramping, diving, fishing, kayaking and mountain biking opportunities, you can easily make your

Barefoot BarrierGreat Barrier Island or “The Barrier” as its fondly referred to, is just a short half-hour flight from

Auckland. With the recent decision not to mine this remote, tranquil and untouched paradise; its flora, fauna and heritage will be preserved for future generations

– and what a treasure it holds, discovers saraH WeeKs.

own adventure. Take your surfboard, mountain bike or kayak, or hire equipment on the island. After a day’s activity, watch the sun go down over the sea and reflect on why you came - to escape the pressures of a busy life!

Glenfern Sanctuary at Port Fitzroy makes for a great day trip and offers a rare opportunity to experience native wildlife on The Barrier. The sanctuary is part of the 230ha Kotuku Peninsula in the north and is the result of 20 years hard work with over 10,000 native trees planted, an extensive track network and a swing bridge which enables visitors to climb into the crown of a 600-year-old kauri tree. The construction of a predator proof fence across the peninsula in 2008 and a pest eradication programme in 2009

eliminated the pests. However, ongoing rodent control is required to maintain this status. The sanctuary provides a safe habitat for many endangered native species including the black petrel and brown teal, also kaka and chevron skink and the recently introduced North Island robin. Tour guide Helena provides a wealth of information on local flora and fauna and the stunning views from the top of the kauri tree are definitely worth the climb!

The Sir Edmund Hillary Outdoor Pursuits Centre is New Zealand’s leading outdoor education centre and runs courses from a few days to two years in length for young people and adults. Their courses are all about personal development through challenges in

Sarah Weeks on Sunset Rock at Glenfern Sanctuary

21Travel DigesT, December 2010 / January 2011

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For great guided adventure Tours

• Sailing• Sea Kayaking• Surf Kayaking• Rock Climbing• Coasteering

• Bush Adventures

the outdoors. Their adventure activities include rock climbing, mountaineering, white-water kayaking, sea kayaking, canoeing, tramping, caving, sailing, coasteering and kayak surfing. During our visit to The Barrier, we decide to join a group for a day of coasteering. Now you’re probably wondering what this sport is (much like I was upon arrival) but it actually involves a combination of swimming, climbing and jumping off rocks! As well as taking on this fun-filled challenge, we explored inaccessible places such as a partly submerged cave (not for the claustrophobic!) and discovered the sea life of the fascinating inter-tidal zone. Decked out in wetsuit and life vest, our tour guide tells us Green Island (a short boat trip from the Port Fitzroy area) was made for this action-filled sport, before jumping off a five-metre rock into the sea water!

Now if you’re looking for something a little different, why not take a tour with Crazyhorse Trike Tours and Joy Rides. Safe and secure on the back of Crazyhorse, their Rewaco factory-built trike, it’s the ultimate way to see The

Barrier! The rear seat carries two passengers in comfort and style while you enjoy the unobstructed view and wind-in-the-face freedom that only a trike can offer. Whether you prefer a sedate, relaxed cruise or an exhilarating blast, you are in for a truly unique experience on their three-seater fun machine! Just remember to cover up and wear sunglasses as it can get quite chilly on the ride!

Bush and Beach offers a full day tour of The Barrier, aptly named Auckland’s Untamed Island Tour. Although the tour departs every day at 7.15am from Auckland Domestic Airport, we decide to meet the tour on the island. After breakfast at a local cafe, the tour follows an easy half-hour walk along gravelled tracks and boardwalks past giant Nikau palms and rare native flora and fauna over unique wetlands to the Kaitoke natural thermal springs - the perfect place to relax and soothe your aching muscles after a big walk! The adventure continues with a climb to the top of Windy Canyon, a spectacular walk around rocky outcrops and past sheer cliffs coated with rata vines. It’s not often you find a canyon in

New Zealand and despite the steep climb; the views are breathtaking and definitely worthwhile! A further climb will take you to Great Barrier’s highest point, Mt Hobson / Hirakimata at 621 metres. On a clear day it offers spectacular views of the Mercury Islands, Poor Knights and the Hauraki Gulf. After a good workout, it’s off to Mabey’s family farm located alongside the picturesque Whangapoua Beach, on the north east coast (subject to availability on this tour). We stop at a stream to feed monster-sized eels (trust me, they’re big!) and see the world’s largest population of Brown Teal, a friendly little duck on the verge of extinction. Next up, a picnic lunch with fresh vegetables and fruit all grown from Helen Mabey’s own garden! Helen provides a wealth of knowledge of the area and the local people, having lived on the island for over 35 years and is a most gracious host. After lunch we take a tour along the beach, visiting the grave site of the 130 people who lost their lives in the shipwreck of the SS Wairarapa in 1894 - the third worst shipping disaster in New Zealand’s history.

GREAT BARRIER

22 December 2010 / January 2011, Travel DigesT

WHere TO eaTGreat Barrier Island offers a selection of

restaurants and cafés. Like most businesses on the island, opening hours are seasonal and summer time will provide the best range of eating options. For self-catering there are a number of stores to purchase supplies, but at a high cost! It is advisable to make a reservation and confirm the venue’s opening hours and check payment facilities as some businesses are cash only.

My favourites are Cafe Motu in Okiwi which has a relaxed and laid back feeling, serving up delicious healthy meals, Claris Texas Cafe in a garden-like setting serving the best homemade pies on the island and The Currach Irish Pub which serves dinner and a pint at the end of the day.

HOW TO geT THereThere’s two ways to get to Great Barrier

Island - either by ferry or by flight. Both options have their pros and cons, it just depends on how much time you have available for your trip.

Fullers operates passenger ferries from Labour weekend through to Easter weekend and take around two and a half hours one way (weather conditions permitting) and advance reservations are necessary. However, if you’d like to take the car over (be warned, the roads are not the same as on the mainland!). SeaLink Passenger and Car Ferry Service provides regular service to Great Barrier Island, running six days a week in summer and three days a week in winter and takes around four and a half hours (car booking are essential). Catching the ferry is a great opportunity to experience the sea breeze, stunning scenery of the surrounding islands of the Hauraki Gulf and if you take your car, you can stock up on groceries - great if you’re planning on spending more than a few days on the island as the local prices can be quite expensive!

Great Barrier Airlines flew its first scheduled service to Great Barrier Island back in 1983. Today they operate out of Auckland, North Shore’s Dairy Flat, Whangarei, Whitianga and Matarangi. There is a fleet of nine aircraft including the Britten Norman Islander and Trislander which can seat between five and 15 people - definitely a snug fit and passengers can even bring their dogs with them who sit on their laps! The flight is half an hour each way and is a great way to view The Barrier - a useful way to get your bearings and see how big this island actually is! Fly My Sky

GREAT BARRIERand Air Discovery also operate flights to The Barrier from Auckland, Tauranga and Waiheke Island.

geTTiNg arOUND

There is no public transport on the island but shuttle buses can to take you to and from your accommodation and to all walking tracks and beaches. Tours of the island can also be arranged with local shuttle companies. The island stretches north to south for some 40km and has an area of 285sq km, more than half the size of the Auckland Metropolitan area - this is why having your own car is handy! Rental cars are available for you to explore the island at your own pace. GBI Rent A Car & Shuttle Buses provides car hire from $50 per day and have a wide range of vehicles to choose from including economical fun tops, family station wagons, convertibles, sports MX5s, wedding cars, minibuses, people movers, 4x4s, utes and furniture trailers. Located on the main road outside Claris Airport, they also provide free pickup and delivery. You don’t need a 4WD to get around the island, but you may need one to get to your accommodation. Demand is high during peak times and so it is best to arrange transport before you arrive. Other rental car companies operating on the island include Aotea Car Rentals and Medlands Rentals.

aCCOMMODaTiONDuring the summer period demand for

accommodation is high and often booked out well in advance and during the winter months some providers may close so you need to book in advance to avoid disappointment.

Located near Tryphena Wharf in the southern part of Great Barrier Island, Aotea Lodge (previously known as Runaway Lodge) is perfect for families or couples. Set in a park-like garden setting and offering stunning scenery of the surrounding bush and mountains, the

convertibles, sports MX5s, wedding cars, minibuses, people movers, 4x4s, utes and

Crazyhorse Trike Tours and Joy Rides – the ultimate way to see The Barrier.

lodge provides three self-contained units. My family and I booked both the family unit featuring a master bedroom, separate bedroom with two bunks, living area with fold-out couch, bathroom and kitchen facilities and the double unit featuring a master bedroom, loft with double couch, bathroom and kitchen, adjacent to each other and found the facilities to be very good. There is also a bunkroom unit which features four bunks downstairs, a loft area with two single mattresses, a bathroom and small kitchenette. GBI Rent A Car & Shuttle Buses have recently taken ownership of the lodge and have plans to develop the property to include a campground. Most of the locals produce their own renewable energy from solar power panels on their roof and also have rainwater catchment systems for their water supply. ✈

Kaitoke Beach