great bracelet projects for summer! · your complete beading resource ® plus! stitch make a...

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June

201

3 Is

sue

115

Your complete beading resource

®

PLUS

!

Stitch

Make a delicate chain necklace in less than 1 hour! p. 70

Peanuts, tiles, and Petals:

Create beautiful jewelrywith shaped beads

Fun finds from

tucson

this vintage-style bracelet p. 49

&

Make a channel-set crystal bangle in right-angle weave p. 46

Meet bead artist Marcia DeCoster p. 60

Epoxy resin & clay: Safety essentials p. 22

All about crystal coatings p. 11

Stitch charming butterflies and climbing vines p. 40

Your complete beading resource SUBSCRIBEREXCLUSIVEJune 2013

A DIGITAL SUPPLEMENT TO BEAD&BUTTON MAGAZINE

Extra

Great bracelet projects

for summer!Embellish a herringbone bangle

Stitch a geometricpattern with SuperDuos

String a bracelet with loopy layers

Make a pearly bracelet with a bonus pendant

Editor, Bead&Button

[email protected]

This logo is for use on masthead only. Do not use less than 100% of full size.

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ContentsLoopy layers bracelet . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4

Diamond odyssey bracelet . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8

Dahlia delight bracelet & pendant . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 11

Fanciful bangle . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 17

Welcome B&B Extra June 2013

© 2013, Kalmbach Publishing Co. All rights reserved. This publication may not be reproduced in part or in whole without written permission from the publisher. The designs in B&B Extra are for your personal enjoyment. They may not be taught or sold without permission.

Editor Julia Gerlach

Senior Art Director Lisa Bergman

Associate Editors Jane Danley Cruz, Stacy Werkheiser, Connie Whittaker

Editorial Assistant Lora Groszkiewicz

Graphic Designer Kelly Katlaps

Photographers Bill Zuback, Jim Forbes

Illustrator Kellie Jaeger

Publisher Linda Kast

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B&B Extra is published bimonthly by Kalmbach

Publishing Co., 21027 Crossroads Circle,

P.O. Box 1612, Waukesha, WI 53187-1612.

We hope you’ve been enjoying your June issue of Bead&Button and are now ready for more projects. This installment of B&B Extra features

four bracelet patterns of varying skill levels plus a bonus pendant. Ease yourself in with Denise Varville’s “Loopy layers” bracelet, p. 4, featuring a crystal focal framed with graduated layers of seed bead loops. Next, embrace a new colorway this summer with Julia Hecht’s “Diamond odyssey bracelet,” p. 8. This pattern will look great in any color palette, whether you choose brights (anyone daring enough to try neon beads?) or neutrals. Michelle Heim’s “Dahlia delight bracelet & pendant,” p. 11, channel a favorite summer flower. Finally, try the embellished herringbone techniques in “Fanciful bangle,” p. 17, by Jayashree Paramesh. You don’t need large amounts of any one bead, so this is a great project for using up beads in your existing stash. Happy beading!

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designed by Denise Varville

CROSSWEAVE TECHNIQUE / STRINGING

Show off a beautiful crystal disk with orbiting rings of seed beads

B&B Extra | June 2013 4

Loopy layersbracelet

a

b

c

d

e

aa

bb

cc

dd

eef

ff

25 mm crystal disk

6.5 x 14.5 mm pinch bail

2.5 x 11.5 mm three-hole bar

2 x 2 mm crimp bead

110 seed bead

stepbystepBottom layer[1] Using chainnose pliers, slightly open a large pinch bail just wide enough to slide in the 25 mm crystal disk, and gently close the bail.[2] Cut an 18-in. (46 cm) piece of beading wire, slide it through the pinch bail, and center it.[3] On one end of the wire, string 16 110 seed beads and one end of a three-hole bar. On the other end of the wire, string 16 110s, and cross this end through the same hole of the bar (figure, a–b and aa–bb). Pull the ends of the wire tight to form a circle, centering the 110s on the wire.[4] On one end of the wire, string 10 110s and the end hole of a new bar. On the other end of the wire, string 10 110s, and cross this end through the same hole of the bar just added (b–c and bb–cc).[5] On one end of the wire, string 16 110s and the end hole of a new bar. On the other end of the wire, string

16 110s, and cross this end through the same hole of the bar just added (c–d and cc–dd).[6] Repeat step 4 (d–e and dd–ee).[7] On one end of the wire, string 13 110s and a crimp bead. On the other end of the wire, string 13 110s, and cross this end through the crimp bead (e–f and ee–ff). Snug up the beads in each loop by pulling the ends of the wire. Crimp the crimp bead (Online Beading Basics), and trim the ends of the wire close to the crimp.[8] Repeat steps 1–7 on the other side of the crystal disk.

Middle and top layers[1] Position your beadwork so that the front of the crystal disk is facing up. Each new layer of loops will lie on top of the last.[2] Repeat steps 2–8 of “Bottom layer” for the middle layer of the bracelet with the following changes:• Insteadofaddingnewbars,crosstheends of the wire through the center hole of each existing bar.

Use some fun components in unusual ways! Spacer bars help layer graduated loops of seed beads, while pinch bails capture a large Swarovski crystal disk and attach your clasp.

materialsgreen bracelet 8½ in. (21.6 cm)• 1 25 mm crystal disk (Swarovski, crystal bronze shade)• 4g110seedbeads(Toho243,navy- lined amber)• 2 6.5x14.5mm(large)hammertone pinch bails (TierraCast, silver)• 2 6x12mm(small)hammertonepinch bails (TierraCast, silver)• 8 2.5x11.5mmthree-holebars,plain (TierraCast, silver)• toggleclasp(TierraCast,silver hammertone ellipse)• 25mmjumprings• 6 2 x 2 mm crimp beads• flexiblebeadingwire,.015• 2 pairs of chainnose pliers• crimpingpliers• wirecutters

gold bracelet colors:• 25mmcrystaldisk(Swarovski,tabac)• 110seedbeads(Miyuki462,metallic goldiris)• 6.5x14.5mm(large)hammertonepinch bails(TierraCast,gold)• 6x12mm(small)hammertonepinch bails(TierraCast,gold)• 2.5x11.5mmthree-holebars,plain (TierraCast,gold)• toggleclasp(gold)• 5mmjumprings(gold)• 2x2mmcrimpbeads (gold)

Denise Varville has been beading for over 25 years and loves to make jewelry for other people. She also enjoys gardening and spending time with her grandchildren. Contact her at www.tierracast.com.

FIGURE

DESIGNER NotE:To change the length of the bracelet, add or subtract an equal number of beads from the first four loops in each layer or eliminate the last loop in each layer.


www To brush up on the Online Beading Basics referenced in this story (plus other techniques!), go to www.BeadAndButton.com/Basics.

• Insteps3–6,string13110s on each end of the wire.• Instep7,string10110s on each end of the wire.[3] Repeat steps 2–8 of “Bottom layer” for the top layer of the bracelet with the following changes:• Insteadofaddingnewbars,crosstheends of the wire through the remaining open hole of each existing bar.• Instep3,string10110s on each end of the wire.• Instep4,string16110s on each end of the wire.


• Instep5,string10110s on each end of the wire.• Instep6,string16110s on each end of the wire.• Instep7,stringseven110s on each end of the wire.

Clasp[1] Open a 5 mm jump ring (Online Basics), and attach the bar end of the toggle clasp. [2] Using chainnose pliers, slightly open a small pinch bail, and attach the three loops on one end of the bracelet and the jump ring with the toggle bar attached. Close the pinch bail.[3] Repeat step 2 to attach a small pinch bail and toggle ring to the other end of the bracelet. w

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designed by Julia Hecht

What adventures will you embark on while wearing this geometric pattern of SuperDuos?

PEYOTE STITCH

bracelet

Diamond odyssey

stepbystepUse a tight tension throughout the base.

Bracelet base[1] On 3 yd. (2.7 m) of thread, attach a stop bead (Online Beading Basics), leaving a 12-in. (30 cm) tail. Pick up a repeating pattern of a color A 2.5 x 5 mm SuperDuo bead and a color B 2.5 x 5 mm SuperDuo bead five times, and then pick up an A (figure 1, a–b). The As will be row 1 of the band, and the Bs will be row 2.[2] To work the first edge fringe: Pick up an 110 seed bead, a 3 mm pearl, and a 150 seed bead, and sew back through the pearl. Pick up an 110 and an A, and sew through the available hole of the next B (b–c). [3] Work row 3 in modified peyote stitch: Pick up an A, and sew through the available hole of the next B. Repeat this stitch three times, and then pick up an A (c–d).

[4] To work the next edge fringe: Pick up an 110, a pearl, and a 150, and sew back through the pearl. Pick up an 110, and sew through the available hole of the last A picked up (d–e).[5] Continue working the base as follows:• Row 4: Work five modified peyote stitches with Bs, and work an edge fringe as in step 2 (e–f).• Row 5: Work four stitches with As, pick up one more A, and work an edge fringe as in step 4 (f–g).• Row 6: Work five stitches with the following beads: two Bs, a color C 2.5 x 5 mm SuperDuo bead, and two Bs. Work an edge fringe as in step 2 (g–h). • Row 7: Work four stitches with the following beads: an A, two Cs, and an A. Pick up one more A, and work an edge fringe as in step 4 (h–i).• Row 8: Work five stitches with the following beads: a B, a C, an 110, a C, and a B. Work an edge fringe as in step 2 (i–j).

This bracelet can take you in totally different directions depending on your color palette. Go soft and subtle for a laid-back look, or try bright and wild to grab some attention!Ifyoureallywanttogobright,trythispatternwith the new neon SuperDuos.

materialsolive/purple/red bracelet* 6 or 7½ in. (15 or 19.1 cm)**• 2.5x5mmSuperDuobeads(Czech) 8or10gcolorA(opaqueolive) 7or8gcolorB(Vegaonchalk) 2or3gcolorC(mattetransparentrubyred)•45 or 553mmcrystalpearls(Swarovski,coral)• 2g110 seed beads (Matsuno, transparent frosted teal)• 1g150 seed beads (Matsuno, transparent frosted teal)• 3-strandtubeclasp(gunmetal)• Fireline6lb.or8lb.test• beadingneedles,#11or#12

*AllbeadsforthisbraceletcanbepurchasedatPoppyfieldBeadCompany,(505)880-8695.Kits are also available for this color.**Theappropriatenumberofbeadsisgiven forbothbraceletlengths.

turquoise/purple/ivory bracelet colors:• 2.5x5mmSuperDuobeads(Czech) colorA(opaqueturquoisePicasso) colorB(Vegaonchalk) colorC(opaquelusterPicasso)• 3mmglasspearls(cream)• 110seedbeads(TohoF460R,olivine matte metallic iris; www.beadhaven.com)• 150seedbeads(431B,forestgreen opaqueluster;www.beyondbeadery.com)• 3-strandtubeclasp(silver)

Julia Hecht has been beading for about 10 years and owns her own bead shop called Poppy-field Bead Company where she also teaches. You can contact her at (505) 880-8695 and [email protected], or visit www.poppybeads.com.



EDItoR’S NotE:If you prefer, the ladder stitch between the 110s at the center of the diamonds can be omitted. – Connie

FIGURE 1

a

b

c

de

f

g

h

i

j

k

l

m

2.5 x 5 mm SuperDuo, color A

2.5 x 5 mm SuperDuo, color B

2.5 x 5 mm SuperDuo, color C

3 mm pearl

110 seed bead

150 seed bead

• Row 9: Work a stitch with an A. Pick up a C and an 110, and work a ladder stitch (Online Basics) by sewing up through the 110 added in row 8 and continuing down through the 110 just added (j–k). Pick up a C, and sew through the available hole of the next C. Work a stitch with an A, pick up one more A, and work an edge fringe as in step 4 (k–l).• Row 10: Work five stitches with the following beads: two Bs, a C, and two Bs. Work an edge fringe as in step 2 (l–m).[6] Repeat rows 5, 4, 5, 4, and 5 for the rows between the diamonds, and repeat rows 6–10 for the diamonds, until the bracelet is the desired length, leaving


½ in. (1.3 cm) for the clasp and ending with a row of As. End and add thread as needed (Online Basics). For a 7½-in. (19.1 cm) bracelet, you should have 28 As along each straight edge and five diamonds. Another 10-row repeat would add about 11⁄4 in. (3.2 cm).

Clasp[1] With the thread exiting an A, pick up an 110, and sew through the next A (figure 2, a–b). Repeat this stitch to add four more 110s (b–c).[2] Pick up an 110, and sew back through the same hole of the A. Continue through the next 110, A, and 110 (c–d).

[3] Pick up three to five 150s, and sew up through the first loop of the clasp. Pick up three to five 150s, and sew through the 110 your thread exited at the start of the step. Continue through the next A and 110 (d–e). Work in this manner to attach the other loops of the clasp (e–f), and retrace the thread path of the clasp connection. End the working thread.[4] Remove the stop bead, and repeat step 4 of “Bracelet base” with the tail, exiting the first A added in the base.[5] Repeat steps 1–3 of “Clasp,” and end the tail. w

FIGURE 2

a

b

c

d

e

f

designed by Michelle Heim

Make a few May flowers to follow those April showers

BEAD WEAVING / PEYOTE STITCH


bracelet & pendantdelight

Dahlia

Before you begin stitching, cull your 2.5 x 5 mm Twin beads. Each Twin should have a consistent thickness, and that thickness should be similar from one Twin to the next. The Twins should also be approximately the same lengthandhavetwoholes.Ifdesired,substitute 2.5 x 5 mm SuperDuo beads.

stepbystepBraceletFirst component[1] On a comfortable length of thread, pick up a repeating pattern of an 80 seed bead and a 2.5 x 5 mm Twin bead until you have 12 of each bead. Sew through all the beads again to form a ring, leav-ing a 12-in. (30 cm) tail. Tie the work-ing thread and tail with a square knot (Online Beading Basics), leaving a small amount of slack between the first and last beads. Sew through the next 80 and Twin bead, and continue through the available hole of the Twin (photo a).

[2] Pick up a 150 seed bead, and sew through the available hole of the next Twin bead. Repeat this stitch to complete the round, pulling the 150s to the inside of the ring. Retrace the thread path of the round, and exit a 150 (photo b).[3] Pick up three 150s, a 4 mm bicone crystal, and three 150s. Skip the next 150 in the ring, and sew through the following 150, with your needle point-ing toward the 150 your thread exited at the start of this step (photo c). Repeat this stitch to complete the round, and sew back through the last three 150s and 4 mm bicone added in this step (photo d).[4] Pick up a 150, and sew through the next 4 mm bicone. Repeat this stitch to complete the round. Retrace the thread path of the round, and exit a 4 mm bicone (photo e).[5] Sew down through the center open-ing of the component, pick up an 8 mm pearl, sew up through the center open-ing of the component, and continue through the 4 mm bicone opposite the

This subtle tribute to a floral theme will please your pearl and bicone sensibilities. The instructions below are for the aptly named “Golden greys” color palette, but you may just want to try the “Calypso” version next!

materials“Golden greys” bracelet 7¼ in. (18.4 cm)• crystalpearls(Swarovski,gold) 4 8 mm 3 6 mm 124mm• 484mmbiconecrystals(Czech,hematite lusterjonquil)• 6g2.5x5mmTwinbeads,culled (Preciosa,jetmattegreypearl)• 2g80seedbeads(Miyuki451,gunmetal)• 1g150seedbeads(Miyuki1,silver-lined crystal)• 2-strandslideclasp• Fireline6lb.test• beadingneedles,#11

“Golden greys” pendant 2 in. (5 cm)(same bead colors as bracelet)• crystalpearls 1 6 mm 124mm• 64mmbiconecrystals• 2g2.5x5mmTwinbeads,culled• 2g80 seed beads• 1g150 seed beads• Fireline6lb.test• beadingneedles,#11

“Calypso” bracelet and pendant colors:• 6mmbiconecrystal,inplaceof6mm crystal pearl at center of pendant (Swarovski, blue zircon)• 4mmbiconecrystals,inplaceof8mm and 6 mm crystal pearls (Swarovski, blue zirconAB2X)• 4mmbiconecrystals,inplaceof4mm crystal pearls (Swarovski, padparadsha)• 2.5x5mmTwinbeads(Preciosa,bronze- lined crystal)• 80seedbeads(Miyuki4217,Duracoat galvanizedseafoam)• 150seedbeads(Miyuki1531,sparkle purple-linedcrystal)

MaterialsavailablefromBeadalotta bycalling(920)322-1885oremailing [email protected].

a b

c d


fe

one your thread exited at the start of this step (photo f). Sew back through the 8 mm pearl, and continue through the 4 mm bicone your thread exited at the start of this step.

Bridges[1] Sew through the beadwork to exit an 80 to one side of a 4 mm bicone to which the center pearl is attached (photo g). Note: For clarity, the 12-in. (30 cm) tail is no longer shown in the photos, but do not end the tail.[2] Pick up two 150s, a 4 mm pearl, two 150s, an 80, and two 150s. Sew back through the 4 mm pearl, pick up two 150s, and sew through the 80 your thread exited at the start of this step in the same direction as before (photo h). This completes the first bridge. Retrace the thread path of the bridge, and continue

through the next Twin bead and 80 in the component.[3] Pick up a 150, a 4 mm bicone, a 150, an 80, and a 150. Sew back through the 4 mm bicone, pick up a 150, and sew though the 80 your thread exited at the start of this step in the same direction as before (photo i). This completes the second bridge. Retrace the thread path of the bridge, and continue through the next Twin bead and 80 in the component. [4] Repeat step 2 to make the third bridge, but after you retrace the thread path, sew through the beadwork to exit the 80 at the tip of this bridge, with your needle point-ing toward the second bridge (photo j).


Michelle Heim began her addiction to beads almost eight years ago. She took one class, and that was it! In 2006, she opened Beadalotta Fond du Lac and co-owns it with her mom. Contact Michelle at [email protected], or visit her store website, www.beadalotta.com.

www To brush up on the Online Beading Basics referenced in this story (plus other techniques), go to www.BeadAndButton.com/Basics.

Component with 6 mm center pearl[1] Pick up a Twin bead, sew through the 80 at the tip of the second bridge, pick up a Twin bead, and sew through the 80 at the tip of the first bridge (photo k). [2] Pick up a repeating pattern of a Twin bead and an 80 until you have 10 Twins and nine 80s. Sew through the

hg

ji k

mailto:[email protected]

mailto:[email protected]

www.beadalotta.com

next 80, Twin, 80, Twin, and 80 to form a ring, and continue through the next few beads, exiting a Twin. Sew through available hole of the Twin (photo l).[3] Work as in steps 2 and 3 of “First component.” [4] Work as in step 4 of “First compo-nent,” and exit the 4 mm bicone most closely aligned with the 4 mm bicone in the second bridge (photo m). [5] Sew down through the center open-ing of the component, and pick up a 150, a 6 mm pearl, and a 150. Sew up through the center opening of the component, and continue through the 4 mm bicone opposite the one your thread exited at the start of this step. Pick up a 150, sew back through the 6 mm pearl, pick up a 150, and sew through the 4 mm bicone your thread exited at the start of this step.[6] Work the steps for “Bridges.”

Component with 8 mm center pearl[1] Work steps 1–4 of “Component with 6 mm center pearl.”[2] Work step 5 of “First component” to add the 8 mm center pearl.[3] Work the steps for “Bridges.”

Keep going!Alternate working the steps for “Com-ponent with 6 mm center pearl” and “Component with 8 mm center pearl” until you have seven components sepa-rated by six sets of bridges. End and add thread (Online Basics) as needed.

Clasp[1] Sew through the beadwork to exit an 80 to one side of the 4 mm bicone to which the last center pearl is attached. [2] Pick up two 150s, and sew through a loop of the clasp. Sew back through the last 150, pick up a 150, and sew through the 80 your thread exited at the start of this step in the same direction as before (photo n). Retrace the thread path of the connection, and sew through the beadwork to exit one or two 80s away from this connection.[3] Repeat step 2, and end the thread.[4] Repeat steps 1–3 with the tail on the other end of the bracelet.

PendantMedallion[1] On 1½ yd. (1.4 m) of thread, pick up a repeating pattern of an 80 seed

bead and a 2.5 x 5 mm Twin bead until you have 24 of each bead. Sew through all the beads again to form a ring, leaving a 6-in. (15 cm) tail. Tie the working thread and tail with a square knot (Online Beading Basics), leaving 2–3 mm of slack between the first and last beads. Sew through the next 80 and Twin bead, and continue through the available hole of the Twin (refer to photo a, but note that you are using more beads for the pendant and leaving more slack between them).[2] Pick up a 150 seed bead, and sew through the available hole of the next Twin bead. Repeat this stitch to com-plete the round, pulling the 150s to the inside of the ring. Retrace the thread path of the round, and exit a 150 (refer to photo b). As you retrace the round, do not pull the thread so tight that the ring buckles.[3] Pick up three 150s, a 4 mm pearl, and three 150s. Skip the next 150 in the ring, and sew through the following 150, with your needle pointing toward the 150 your thread exited at the start of this step (photo o). Repeat this stitch to complete the round, and sew back


po q

l nm

through the last three 150s and 4 mm pearl added in this step.[4] Pick up a 150, and sew through the next 4 mm pearl. Repeat this stitch to complete the round. Retrace the thread path of the round, and exit a 150.[5] Pick up three 150s, a 4 mm bicone crystal, and three 150s. Skip the next 150 in the ring, and sew through the following 150, with your needle point-ing toward the 150 your thread exited at the start of this step (photo p). Repeat this stitch to complete the round, and sew back through the last three 150s and 4 mm bicone added in this step.[6] Pick up a 150, and sew through the next 4 mm bicone. Repeat this stitch to complete the round. Retrace the thread path of the round, and exit a 4 mm bicone (photo q).[7] Pick up a 150, a 6 mm pearl, and

a 150, and sew through the 4 mm bicone opposite the one your thread is exiting. Pick up a 150, sew back through the 6 mm pearl, pick up a 150, and sew through the 4 mm bicone your thread exited at the start of this step in the same direction as before (photo r). Retrace the thread path of the center pearl.[8] Sew through the beadwork to exit the original ring of 80s and Twin beads. Retrace the thread path of the ring, using tight tension to close any gaps, and end the working thread and tail (Online Basics).

Bail[1] Add 24 in. (61 cm) of thread to the medallion, and exit an 80 just to one side of the 6 mm center pearl (photo s).[2] Pick up an 80, skip the next Twin bead, and sew through the following 80.


r

t

s

v

u

w

Repeat this stitch once. The three medallion 80s you sewed through in this step will be row 1 of the bail; the two new 80s added will be row 2 (photo t).[3] Working in flat odd-count peyote stitch (Online Basics) and using 80s, make a strip that is 18 rows long with nine beads on each straight edge, including the medallion 80s in row 1. End with a row of two beads.[4] Zip up (Online Basics) the last two beads of the bail to the three medallion 80s in row 1 (photo u). Retrace the thread path of the join, and exit a medallion 80 along either edge of the bail, with your needle pointing away from the bail.[5] Pick up three 150s, and sew down through the next 80 along the edge of the bail. Sew through the beadwork to exit this same edge 80 with your needle once again pointing away from the bail. Continue through the last 150 added in this step (photo v).[6] Pick up two 150s, and sew down through the next 80 along the edge of the bail. Sew through the beadwork to exit this same edge 80 with your needle once again pointing away from the bail. Continue through the last 150 added in this step (photo w).[7] Repeat step 6 along this edge of the bail.[8] Sew through the beadwork to exit the medallion 80 along the other edge of the bail, with your needle pointing away from the bail. Repeat steps 5–7, and end the thread. String the pendant as desired. w

PRECIOSABBX • 06/02/2013 • 4C • 1 PG

Shipwreck Beads | 800-950-4232 | www.shipwreckbeads.comFire Mountain Gems and Beads | 800-355-2137 | www.firemountaingems.comBeadsmith / Helby Import | 732-969-5300 | www.beadsmith.comJohn Bead Corp., Ltd. | 888-755-9055 | www.johnbead.comJohn F. Allen & Son, Inc. | 800-334-9971 | www.jfallen.comYork Novelty Import, Inc. | 800-223-6676 | www.yorkbeads.comFrabels Inc. | 514-842-8561 | www.frabels.comHar-Man Importing Co. | 1-800-232-3769 | www.harmanbeads.com

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Click here for instructions to make the braceletPLAYFUL PERFECTION

http://preciosa-ornela.com/bbe-2013-06

designed by Jayashree Paramesh

Embellish a herringbone bangle with a whimsical assortment of beads from your stash

HERRINGBONE STITCH / BEAD WEAVING


Fancifulbangle

stepbystepThis bangle is made using a very firm tension throughout.

Herringbone bangleBottom herringbone strip[1] On a comfortable length of thread and leaving a 6-in. (15 cm) tail, work in ladder stitch (Online Beading Basics) to make a four-bead ladder using 100 triangle beads (figure 1, a–b). Zigzag back through the ladder to line up the beads evenly. Your thread should be exiting the first bead opposite the tail (b–c). This forms the first row of the bottom herringbone strip.

[2] Work in flat herringbone stitch as follows: Pick up two triangles, sew down through the next bead in the previous row (figure 2, a–b), and sew up through the following bead (b–c). Pick up two triangles, and sew down through the next bead in the previous row. To make the turn and get into position to start the next row: Pick up a color A 110 seed bead, and sew up through the last triangle in the new row (c–d). [3] Repeat step 2 to make a strip long enough to fit around the widest part of your hand, ending and adding thread (Online Basics) as needed. Our strip is 96 rows long and measures 9½ in. (24.1 cm). This makes a bangle with

This bangle is a textural delight, with smooth seed beads, faceted fire-polished accents, bicones, triangle beads, and any other shapes you can find a place for! For added fun, choose contrasting colors, as in the green/purple bangle.

materialsgreen/purple bangle 21⁄4-in. (5.7 cm) inside diameter• 324mmfire-polishedbeads(Czech, opaquelimegreen)• 963mmbiconecrystals(Swarovski, astralpinkAB)• 96 2 mm round beads (hematite)• 20g100trianglebeads(Miyuki0484, purple-linedtransparentamethyst)• 3g110 seed beads in each of 3 colors: A(Czech,limegreen),B(Czech,antique gold),C(Czech,peach-linedamber)• 3g150seedbeads(Czech,antiquegold)• 8–9in.(20–23cm)4mmrubbercord• Fireline8lb.test• beadingneedles,#10and#12

blue/pink bangle colors:• 4mmfire-polishedbeads(Czech,blue turquoise)• 3mmbiconecrystals(Swarovski,air-blue opal)• 80 seed beads, in place of 2 mm round beads (Miyuki592,antiqueivorypearl Ceylon)• 100trianglebeadsin2 colors: topstrip(Miyuki1529,sparklelightblue lined),bottomstrip(Miyuki51667,pink- lined transparent amethyst)• 110 seed beads in 3 colors: A(Miyuki1457,dyedemeraldsilver-lined darksapphire),B(Miyuki592,antique ivorypearlCeylon),C(Miyuki395C, raspberryclear-linedrose)• 150seedbeads(Miyuki352, fuchsia-linedaqualuster)

Jayashree Paramesh was introduced to the world of beads through a bead-embroidery class she took while a student at Parsons School of Design. She is inspired by fine jewelry and loves to use gold or silver alongside crystals and gemstones in her designs. To see more of her work, visit www.nchantme.com, or contact her at [email protected].



FIGURE 1

FIGURE 2

FIGURE 3

FIGURE 4

a b

c

a

b

c

d

a

b

c

4 mm fire-polished bead

100 triangle bead

110 seed bead, color A

110 seed bead, color B

150 seed bead

a

b

c

d


a 21⁄4-in. (5.7 cm) inside diameter. To increase or decrease the diameter, add or omit rows in multiples of three.[4] To join the ends of the strip: Make sure the strip is not twisted, and zigzag back and forth through the triangles in the last row and the first row (figure 3). Retrace the thread path of the join, and end the working thread and tail.

top herringbone stripBeginning with a six-bead ladder, work as in steps 1–3 of “Bottom herringbone strip” to make another strip with the same number of rows. Do not join the ends or end the working thread.

CordCut a piece of 4 mm rubber cord to the same length as the bottom herringbone strip.

Assembly[1] Lay the top strip on top of the bottom strip with one edge aligned and the angle of the beads in each strip pointing in the same direction. [2] To join the aligned edges: With the thread exiting any edge triangle in the top strip, sew through an edge triangle in the bottom strip (photo a) For clarity, the ends of the bottom herringbone strip have not yet been joined in photos a–d. Skip the next edge triangle in the top strip, and sew through the following edge triangle in the top strip (photo b). Skip the next edge triangle in the bottom strip, and sew through the following edge triangle in the bottom strip.

[3] Continue to work as in step 2 to join the two strips along this edge. Note: You may need to push the As out of the way in order to sew through the edge triangles. When you have joined the two strips, the As in the top strip will rest on top of the As in the bottom strip. [4] Sew through the beadwork to exit a triangle along the other edge of the top strip. Place the rubber cord between the two strips (photo c), and work as in step 2 to join the edges. Trim the cord as needed.[5] Join the ends of the top strip as in step 4 of “Bottom herringbone strip.” End all remaining threads.

EmbellishmentsCenter embellishment[1] Position the bangle so the beads in the center herringbone stack on the top of the bangle are angled toward the outside edges. Add a comfortable length of thread to the bangle, and exit a triangle in a column of the center stack (figure 4, point a). [2] Pick up a 150 seed bead, a color B 110 seed bead, a 4 mm fire-polished bead, a B, and a 150. Cross the stack diagonally, skip the next row in the stack, and sew through the opposite triangle in the following row (a–b and photo d).[3] Without picking up a bead, sew through the opposite triangle in the next row (b–c).[4] Repeat steps 2 and 3 to complete the round, ending and adding thread as needed.

TOP sTrIP

BOTTOM sTrIP

Try substituting 3 mm pearls for the 3 mm bicone crystals in step 4 of “Edge embellishments.”

e f


Edge embellishments[1] Sew through the next few triangles in the adjacent column of the outer stack so your needle is exiting a triangle that falls between the gaps of the “Center embellishment.” Pick up a 150, a color C 110 seed bead, and a 150, skip the next triangle in the stack, and sew through the following triangle in the same stack (photo e). Repeat this stitch to complete the round.[2] Sew through the beadwork to exit the corresponding triangle on the other outer stack, and repeat step 1.[3] Referring to photo f for placement, sew through the beadwork to exit an A added in step 2 of “Bottom herringbone

strip.” Pick up a 2 mm round bead, and sew through the next A along the bottom strip edge. Repeat this stitch to complete the round, and step up through the adjacent A added in “Top herringbone strip.”[4] Pick up a 3 mm bicone crystal, and sew through the next A along the top strip edge. Repeat this stitch to complete the round.[5] Sew through the beadwork to exit an A in the bottom strip along the other edge of the bangle, and repeat steps 3 and 4. End the thread. w

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