green designs (nift delhi 20. 04. 2006)
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Green Designs
R.B.CHAVANDepartment of Textile Technology
Indian Institute of TechnologyHauz-khas, New Delhi 110016
E-mail [email protected]
Green Designs
Designing with eco-friendly textiles
Environment awareness in India
Environment control agencies
Ministry of Environment and Forests
Assisted byCentral pollution control boardState pollution control boards
Stringent environment rules and regulations on Paper
Very Poorly applied in practice
Result
Environment pollution
Environment
Effect of day to day activities and all manufacturing activities on
Water
Air
Noise level
Human being
Aquatic life
Plants
Earth etc.
Background
German Ban
Ban on export of textiles dyed with dyes containing carcinogenic amines
Introduced in 1992
Implemented in india April 1996
Extended list of banned chemicals
Pesticides
Formaldehyde
Chlorine bleaching agents
Heavy metals like chromium
Chlorinated stain removers
Pentachlorophenol
PRESENT CONCEPTPOLLUTERS MUST PAY
CRADLE TO GRAVE OR WOMB TO TOMB
NOT ONLY FINAL PRODUCT BE ECO FRIENDLY RAW MATERIALS, PRODUCTION PROCESSES, PACKAGING, ECO FRIENDLY EVEN AFTER DIPOSAL MEET EMS 14000 AND SAS 8000 STANDARDS ECO FRIENDLY PRODUCTS INDENTIFIED BY ECO LABLES
•GREEN MINDED CONSUMER PREFER ECO PRODUCTS EVEN AT HIGH COST
THREE ECOLOGIES
•PRODUCTION ECOLOGY
•USER ECOLOGY
•DISPOSAL ECOLOGY
USER AND DISPOSAL ECOLOGY
• USER ECOLOGY REFERS TO• AESTHETICS
• PERFORMANCE CHARACTERISTICS • EFFECTS OF TEXTILES ON HUMAN BODY.
• DISPOSAL ECOLOGY REFERS TO • DISPOSAL OF TEXTILES AFTER USE
• RECYCLING, • COMPOSTING,
• DUMPING, • INCINERATION
• LEAST POSSIBLE ENVIRONMENTAL IMPACT .
PRODUCTION ECOLOGY
COMPRISES OF
• CULTIVATION AND HARVESTING OF NATURAL FIBRES
• THE MANUFACTURE OF REGENERATED AND SYNTHETIC FIBRES
• SPINNING, WEAVING, KNITTING
• TEXTILE CHEMICAL PROCESSING
• GARMENT MANUFACTURE
• PACKING
ECO FIBRES
–CONVENTIONAL COTTON–CONVENTIONAL COTTON IS NOT ECO
FRIENDLY– USE OF FERTILIZERS, PESTICIDES AND
VARIOUS CROPS RELATED CHEMICALS DURING COTTON CULTIVATION.
–INHALATION DURING HANDLING AND SPRAY APPLICATION-HEALTH HAZARDS
–PRESENCE OF THESE CHEMICALS AS RESIDUE ON COTTON BOLLS
–WASHED AWAY DURING PREPARATORY PROCESSES
–WATER POLLUTION
KING COTTON
COTTON BUD
COTTON
FLOWER
Major Cotton Pesticides and Herbicides
Chemical Name
Human Toxicity
Environ. Toxicity
Chlorpynfos Brain and fetal damage, impotence, sterility.
Bees, birds, crustaceans,&mollu
sks
Cyanazine Birth defects,
cancer. Bees, birds, crustaceans, & fish.
Dicofol Cancer, reproductive damage, tumors
Aquatic insects, birds, & fish
Ethephon Mutations. Birds, bees, crustaceans, & fish.
Major Cotton Pesticides and Herbicides
Chemical Name
Human Toxicity
Environ. Toxicity
Metam Sodium
Birth defects, fetal
damage, mutations Bees & fish.
Methyl Parathion
Birth defects, fetal damage, reproductive & immune system.
Birds, bees, crustaceans, & fish.
Profenofos Eye damage, skin irritant.
Birds, bees, & fish.
Prometryn Bone marrow, kidney, liver, testicular damage.
Bees, birds, crustaceans, fish, & mollusks.
It takes one pound of chemical fertilizers and pesticides to
conventionally grow the three pounds of cotton needed to
make a T-shirt and a pair of jeans.
beneath cotton's natural fiber lies a long chain of chemically-intensive, "unnatural"
processes.
To bring this delicate plant to harvest, it is heavily sprayed - 8 to 10 times a season -
with pesticides so poisonous
they gradually render fields barren. And that's just the beginning.
To create finished goods, fabrics are often colored with toxic dyes and finished with
formaldehyde.
Need for organic cotton
Organic food now symbolizes the highest and freshest quality available.
Suppliers of organic cotton are not far behind.
If we are really concerned about environmental issues today,
our ideas of excellent product design must include impact on the earth.
COTTON CULTIVATED WITHOUT USING
FERTILIZERS PESTICIDES AND OTHER CHEMICALS
ORGANIC cotton INDENTIFIED BY LOGOS ORGANIC COTTON GREEN COTTON NATURAL COTTON
ECO FRIENDLY COTTON
Organic cotton certification
INTERNATIONAL FEDERATION FOR ORGANIC AGRICULTURE MOVEMENT [IFOAM]
has formulated standards and guidelines for
organic cotton cultivation and are
followed by many labelling agencies to certify
organic cotton and other farm produce.
Merits of organic cotton cultivation
Environmentally Friendly Technology
Reduction in Cost of Cultivation
Management of Insecticide Resistance
Organic cotton in IndiaFive to seven decades ago, most of the cotton cultivated in the country was ‘eco-friendly’ with little or no use of toxic
chemicals in its production.
Even today, there are many pockets in India, where it is produced without the use of agrochemicals, e.g.,
areas growing Wagad cotton in Gujarat, Y-1 desi cotton of Khandesh region of Maharashtra,
Maljari in Madhya Pradesh,
part of areas growing Jayadhar and Suyodhar in Karnataka
Nandicum in Andhra Pradesh and
parts of cotton areas in north eastern hill region.
Vidarbha organic farmers Association(VOFA
1993 Visit of Envirnmental Protection Encouragement Agency (EPEA) Hamburg Germany to Central Cotton Research Institute, (CICR) Nagpur
EPEA confirmed organic cotton in Vidarbha
• 1994 Organization of 135 farmers from five districts Nagpur, Wardha,
Yavatmal, Amravati and Akola
• 1995 commitment of 12,00 hectares land for organic cotton cultivation
1995 Formation of Vidarbha Organic Farmers Association
1996 Bumper crop of organic cotton
Present status of VOFA
205 Members
90 Practicing organic farmers
3500 Acres area under organic cotton farming
Purchaser: Fare Trade Company Japan
Maikaal bioRe Ltd.
Madhya PradeshMaikaal bioRe Ltd, which claims to be the largest organic
cotton venture in the world,
in Bheelaon, Madhya Pradesh
has over 1,000 farmers involved in organic cotton production
The production of organic cotton started in 1991 as a private
initiative of Mrigendra Jalan, Managing Director of the spinning mill,
Maikaal Fibres Ltd, and
•Patrick Hohmann, Managing Director of the Swiss cotton yarn trading company, Remei AG
Organic cotton production in India
14-15 lakh bales of uncertified organc cotton (Cotton
corporation of India)
Estimated certified organic cotton 1000
Total world production 8150
15% of total world production
37% Asian countries production
ORGANIC COTTON REDUCTION IN AGROCHEMICALS
World Organic Cotton Production 1992-1997 (in tons)
Country 1992 1993
1994 1995
1996 1997
Argentina 2 120 126 132 70
Australia 479 500 750 400 500 400
Benin 5
Brazil 2 9 1 5 5
Egypt 38 141 598 600 650 630
Greece 450 500 475 400
India 206 268 398 928 900 900
World Organic Cotton Production 1992-1997 (in tons)
Country 1992 1993 1994 1995 1996 1997
Israel 100 100 50
Mozambique 90 90 50
Nicaragua 16 20 20 20
Paraguay 100 75 50 50 50
Peru' 400 700 924 1516 1500 650
Turkey 2 20 30
Tanzania 33 100 100 200
World Organic Cotton Production 1992-1997 (in tons)
Country1992 1993 1994 1995 1996 1997
Uganda 16 150 250 300 800
USA 2155 4274 5365 7425 3396 2852
Zambia 35 30 30
Zimbabway 5
Total 3408 6201 9498 12864 9028 7967
Organic T shirtorganic sweat
shirtorgnic terry robe
Organic fashion wear
Organic night gown
Organic slippers
Earth Friendly Fashions
Simplify Life, Relax Your Mind, Calm Your Soul, Open Your Heart.
Experience Fisher Henney Naturals
Organic cotton body wear
Organic cotton apparel
Organic cotton apparels
NATURALLY COLOURED COTTON
COTTON THAT GROWS WITH NATURAL COLOURS DURING CULTIVATION
BOTH WHITE AND COLOURED COTTONS KNOWN SINCE TIME IMEMORIAL
IN INDIA
NON POPULARITY OF COLOURED COTTON
LOW YIELD
SEED AVAILABILITY
LOW FINENESS, LOW STAPLE LENGTH
LOW STRENGTH
POOR SPINNABILITY
LOW YARN AND FABRIC QUALITY
LIMITED COLOUR RANGE
CONTAMINATION OF WHITE COTTON
ENVIRONMENT PROTECTION WAVE
IMPETUS TO THE CULTIVATION OF NATURALLY COLOURED COTTON
SHADES
PISTA GREEN AND ALMOND BROWN MOST COMMON
OTHER SHADES
CREAM
PINK
MAUVE
COUNTRIES
INDIA
USA
ISRAEL
CHINAPERU
IMPORTANT ASPECTS
EARLIER
LOW FIBRE LENGTH, POOR SPINNABILITY
YARN SPINNING OF 10 TO 12s COUNT
RESEARCH INPUTS
IMPROVED FIBRE QUALITY
POSSIBLE TO SPIN YARNS OF 30 AND 40s COUNT
SUITABLE FOR WEAVING AND KNITTING
IMPORTANT OBSERVATIONS
GREEN VARIETY TURNS BROWN IF NOT HARVESTED ON RIPENING
BROWN VARIETY DARKENS WITH AGE AND EXPOSURE TO LIGHT
GREEN AND BRWON DARKEN ON LAUNDERING
NOT FAST TO BLEACHING
COTTON CORPORATION OF INDIA AND CENTRAL COTTON RESEARCH INSTITUTE NAGPUR
1996-97 INVESTMENT Rs. 80 LAKHS
CULTIVATION OF COLOURED COTTON AT
KHANDWA, MADHYA PRADESH
DHARWAD, KARNATAKA
PROJECT DID NOT SUCEED DUE TO POOR MARKET RESPONSE
DEMAND OF HIGH PRICE BY FARMERS
MAJOR PROBLEM
CONTAMINATION OF WHITE COTTON FIELDS
NECESSARY TO HAVE SEPARATE AREA FOR COLOUR COTTON CULTIVATION
MEANS TO OVERCOME TECHNICAL PROBLEMS
LOW STRENGTH AND POOR SPINNABILITY
BLENDING 30-50% OF WHITE COTTON WITH COLOURED COTTON
CHANGE OF SHADE ON LAUNDERING
ON LAUNDERING SHADE BECOMES DEEPER
ALKALINE SCOURING STABILIZES THE SHADE CHANGE
POOR BLEACHING FASTNESS
DO NOT BLEACH
Rocklea spinning Mills in collaboration with Australian farmers introduced range of yarns from brown and green
varieties of cotton
Blending of coloured cotton with white cotton in diffferent proporations produce shade
varieties
Australia
NATIVE COLOUR COTTON
PROJECT PERU
•COMMENCED IN 1984 TO DEVELOPMENT STRATEGY TO
SUPPORT INDIGENOUS FARMERS AND TRADITIONAL
ARTISANS•15000 FARDMERS CULTIVATE
COLOURED COTTON•50000 WOMEN INVOLVED IN
TRADITIONAL HAND SPINNING AND HAND WEAVING
•COLOURED COTTON IS PRODUCED WITHOUT THE USE
OF SYNTHETIC FERTILIZERS AND PESTICIDES
SIX PRINCIPLE COLOUR
VARIETIES
CREAM
Pista green
MEDIUM BROWN
REDDISH BROWN
CHOCOLATE BROWN
MAUVE
Brown verities possess anti-bacterial and anti-fungal properties
COFFEE FILTERS MADE FROM CERTIFIED ORGANIC COLOURED COTTON FREE FROM
PESTIFCIDES, BLEACHES ANDSYNTHETIC COLOURS
Natural coloured yarns and fabrics are certified by SKAL, Dutch certifying agency
Slivers of coloured cotton
Naturally coloured yarn for Kniting and Weaving
Coloured cotton fabrics
COTTON CLOTHES in naturally occurring colors are produced in Peru
Sally Fox introduced to colored cotton while working
for a cotton breeder, whose focus was developing pest-
resistant strains of cotton.
The peoples of Central and South America had spun
these strains for centuries, but the fiber qualities were
not sufficient for modern machine spinning.
Sally Fox in 1982 took on the challenge of improving an ancient agricultural art.
Fox successfully bred and marketed varieties of naturally coloured cotton she calls FoxFiber ®.
Today, Sally Fox designs fabrics with her cotton and continues research.
Fox has received a patent and three Plant Variety Protection Certificates for her naturally colored cottons which, in addition to browns, she now grows in reds and greens.
Her invention has been so popular it has sprouted two successful companies -- Vreseis, Ltd. and Natural Cotton Colours, both operating in Arizona.
CLASSIFICATION OF NATURAL DYES
PLANT (VEGETABLE)
INSECTS (ANIMAL)
MINERAL
ANNATO
COCHINEAL
COLOURED ROCKS, ORES
PLANT DYE SOURCES
• SEED
• ROOT
• LEAF
• FRUIT
• BARK
• WOOD
VEGETABLE DYE SOURCES
LEAF
SEED
ANNATO
INDIGO
ROOT
MADDER
FRUIT
POMEGRANATE
BARK
ACACIA
WOOD
BRAZIL WOOD
INDIGO TEXTILE DYE
ANNATO FOOD COLOUR
TURMERIC FOOD COLOUR
HENNA HAIR DYE
SAFFRON FOOD COLOUR
MERRIGOLD CHICKEN FEED
APPLICATIONS OF NATURAL DYES
TELIA RUMAL
KALAMKARI
• FROM SINDH• AJRAK MEANS BLUE OR INDIGO• DHAMADKA - KUTCH• TELI AJRAK REQUIRES 19 STAGES FOR PRODUCTION
AJRAK
TRADITIONAL BLOCK PRINTS
CONTEMPORARY BLOCK PRINTS
NATURAL DYE DESIGN STUDIOS
INSTITUTES AND DESIGN SCHOOLS
UNIVERSITIES AND DESIGN INSTITUTES
CONTEMPORARY NATURAL COLOUR DYED PRODUCTS
ECO LABELS
Eco-labels are product labels that
inform consumers about the environmental impact of a
product. They encourage producers to switch to environmentally sound production
process methods (PPMs) for advantage in the marketplace. Eco-labels allow producers to
differentiate their products from products that are less
environmentally friendly and
thus to reach environmentally conscious consumers.
ECO LABEL CRITERIA
ENVIRONMENT FRIENDLINESS OF THE ENTIRE LIFE CYCLE OF THE PRODUCT
CRADLE TO GRAVE ASSESSMENT
1. Production of raw materials
2. Production of the end product
3. Packaging and transport of raw
materials and the finished product
4. Use of the product by companies and
consumers
5. Disposal of the product
e.g. assessment of a T-shirt starts in the
cotton field and ends in the incineration
plant.
ECO LABEL CRITERIA
•As little use as possible of chemical substances harmful to the environment
•No or very few heavy metals in the product
•Energy conservation during production and use
•The lowest possible amounts of harmful
substances in wastewater
•Requirements which ensure that the product works well and will last long
Opportunities for recycling/reuse
POTENTIALLY HARMFUL SUBSTANCES
pH
Formaldehyde
Heavy metals (As, Pb, Cd, Cr, Co, Cu, Ni,
Hg)
Pesticides Chlorinated phenols
Dyestuffs (specific classifications)
Chlorinated organic carriers
Boicidal finishes
Flame retardent finishes
Colour fastness
Emission of volatiles
Odours
Republic of China–TaiwanGreen Mark
Thailand (Thai Green Label
Korea Environmental
Labelling
Japan Eco Mark
India Eco MarkAustralia/New Zealand Environmental ChoiceEuropean Union Eco-label “Flower”
scheme
Nordic Countries (Nordic Swan )
Austrian Eco-label
Croatia (Environmental Label)
Netherland Ecolabel Foundation
COMMERCIAL ACTIVITIES
ECO FRIENDLY FIBRES
• Organic cotton cultivation in several parts of india
• Maikal fabrics organic cotton in mp
• Bhai carsondas mumbai, techno textiles pvt. ltd, new delhi have taken up a project for cultivation of coloured cotton.
ECO FRIENDLY APPARELS• Alps Textiles, Ghaziabad: Produce vegetable dyes and fabrics
dyed with vegetable dyes.
• Reymonds : Green shops in most big cities. Products are free
from banned dyes.
• Arvind Mills : Eco-friendly denim using pesticide free cotton.
Trade mark-Ecologically optimized fabric (EOF) issued by Eco-
Tex, Germany. Specialized environmental stores in Switzerland
like Globus and Jumoli are marketing arvind Mills EOF denim.
Arvind mills also have plans to introduce EOF denim in U>S
and European markets.
• Coats Viyella : Astra brand sewing threads, free from
carcinogenic dyes
• Century Mills : Cool cotton and Eco-friendly fabrics and
garments. Also developed eco-friendly process for dyeing of
cotton with Sulphur dyes.
EFFORTS MADE BY GOVERNMENT OF INDIA
Regulatory MeasuresProhibition on the use of carcinogenic azo dyes · Evolution of eco standards and logo for eco-friendly textiles.
Developmental Efforts Organization of educative seminars, workshops and camps to
inculcate the eco-friendly concepts among the industry and consumer.
· Assistance to be provided by Textile Research Associations and Textile Committee to textile units for securing
ISO 9000 Quality System Certification and ISO 14000 Environment Management System Certification.· Technology upgradation fund (TUF), for modernization of textile
industry · setting of eco testing laboratories on all India basis