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GREY’Sanatomy

Whether you know it as Pinot Grigio or Pinot Gris, the white grape is a global star.

But with some examples being thin and neutral while others offer a glass that oozes

class, how are consumers to know what’s in store? Phoebe French investigates

OF FRENCH origin and later adopted by Italy, Pinot Gris, or Pinot Grigio, is one of the world’s most commerciallysignificant and recognised white grapevarieties. According to the latest OIVdata, worldwide plantings currently totalaround 57,000 hectares.In the UK premium on-trade it remainsthe best-selling white grape variety,according to Liberty Wines’ 2018 report,

accounting for 55% of UK wine sales byvolume and 44% by value, having morethan a 25% market share of the whitewine category. More than 75% of the PinotGrigio consumed in the UK comes fromItaly, according to data from the newPinot Grigio delle Venezie DOC, with theUS (37% export share), the UK (27%) andGermany (10%) the top destinations forthe wine. But has it been a victim of its

own success? While Pinot Grigio isproduced in a wide range of quality levelsand styles throughout the world, itsdominance in the entry-level pricecategory and the plethora of high-volume, diluted and neutral examples onthe market, has coloured its image. A mutation of red-grape Pinot Noir, theearliest reliable mention of Pinot Grisdates to 1711, according to Wine Grapes,

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when it was found growing wild byJohann Seger Ruland, who later gave hisname to one of the German terms for thevariety – Ruländer. It reached Italy at thestart of the 19th century, where it has sincebeen mainly nurtured in the north-easterncorner of the country. Italy now accountsfor more than 40% (24,500ha) of the totalplantings worldwide, with only 500ha ofthat total located outside the Pinot Grigiotrinity that is Veneto, Friuli and Trentino-Alto Adige.While the terms Pinot Grigio and PinotGris are often used outside of Italy andFrance to signify the style of wine in thebottle, wines nevertheless range in bodyfrom full to light; in flavour from aromaticand spicy to neutral stone fruit; in colourfrom gold to almost colourless, and inresidual sugar levels from lusciouslysweet through to dry. It’s unsurprising,therefore, that the average consumermight be a little puzzled as to how a £5bottle may differ from one priced at £15.Could that be about to change? In 2017,a new Italian DOC – Pinot Grigio delle

Venezie DOC – was established to overseethe wines produced in the Veneto, Friuliand Trentino-Alto Adige. This moretightly controlled production zone willaccount for as much as 43% (130 millionbottles) of Italy’s annual Pinot Grigiooutput of 300m bottles. “From 1 Augustthis year, Pinot Grigio from north-eastItaly will no longer be allowed to bebottled and labelled as IGT, and we’ll nolonger be bottling wines from 2016 and2017,” says Albino Armani, president ofthe Consorzio delle Venezie DOC.In July, the new DOC announced thatmore than 1m hectolitres of Pinot Grigiofrom the 2017 vintage had been certifiedby the Consorzio, with requests for

certification rising by 73% and bottling by50%. With measures in place to controlthe release of new Pinot Grigio wines inaccordance with market demand, allwines from the 2017 vintage will bereleased by the end of December 2018. “We can now tell the world that we’rethe benchmark for Italian-style PinotGrigio,” says Armani. ”Unlike the rest ofthe world, we have a historic capacity toimprove in terms of style and quality.”

IMPROVING QUALITYHe adds that the DOC is keen to improvethe quality of Pinot Grigio by workingclosely with the entire production chain,from vinegrowers through to bottlers and distributors. “The DOC acts as a control, with thestock having to pass through tastingpanels – there are around 60 in theregion,” Armani says. Additionally, theDOC is working with a selection ofacademic institutions, such as theUniversity of Padua, the University ofVerona and the University of Milan, to

examine and isolate thepolyphenols in Pinot Grigio’sdistinctive pink-skinned grapes. With 96% of the Pinot Grigioproduced within the DOC exportedevery year, if efforts to improvequality and control productionprove successful, the results will befelt by consumers the world over. Flavio Geretto, Villa Sandi’sexport area manager for the UK, theUS, Americas and Asia Pacific, isadamant that the formation of the

DOC will increase quantity of good-quality Pinot Grigio that is available. “All quality producers will have toachieve a certain standard that isdistinctive from the ‘cheap Pinot Grigio’produced in other parts of Italy or inother countries, which takes advantage ofthe name without confirming the qualityelements of the original area,” he says. Massimo Sensi of Sensi Vini agrees,saying “the switch from IGT to DOCwithin Tre Venezie has brought anadditional point of distinction and hasguaranteed more credibility” for the PinotGrigio produced in the north east.But how is the move seen outside ofItaly and will its significance be

understood? Caroline Brangé, on-tradesales manager at Flint Wines, andformerly a sommelier in London, believesthe new DOC will help Pinot Grigio topick up premium listings in restaurants. “The fact that there is a new DOCdemonstrates the consensus amongquality-driven winemakers that there is aneed to elevate the status of this grape.There are already talented winemakersworking with Pinot Grigio to make winesof character and ageing potential; think ofElizabetta Foradori's Fuoropista andDario Simsic, for example. However,wineries producing DOC delle Veneziewill make a difference in the UK market,and especially in restaurants, where PinotGrigio is very popular, though quite oftendisregarded by sommeliers,” she says. James Reed, Italy buyer at MajesticWines, praised the move, but says it maytake time for the news to trickle down tothe consumer. “In Italy, showcasing PinotGrigio's more premium credentials ismore difficult,” he says. “The new VenetoDOC is seeking to do just that – with afocus on improving quality and bringingout the full character of the grape. This isa message that must land with customers,though, for the perception to shift.”Sean Hutchinson, general sales managerof New Zealand producer Babich, agrees

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> The new Pinot Grigio delle VenezieDOC has listed improving quality,control of production and bettercommunication with both the tradeand media as its top priorities going forward.

> The DOC is also working withItalian universities on academicresearch projects in order to betterunderstand the grape.

> In the UK off-trade, Pinot Gris isgrowing at the premium end,despite its historic dominance of the entry-level category.

> Global Pinot Gris producers believethat recognising and exploiting thevariety’s versatility may be the keyto its future success.

pinot gr igio

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‘The fact that there is a newDOC demonstrates the

consensus among quality-driven winemakers that there

is a need to elevate the status of this grape’

Feature findings

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with Reed, predicting that it may taketime for the impact of the new DOC to befelt in the market. “Over the long term itmight boost the reputation of the varietyworldwide, but at Babich we think thiswould mainly be for the benefit of theItalians producing Pinot Grigio,” he says. But Sander Vriend, division manager ofEurope at Ste Michelle Wine Estates,believes the average consumer “doesn’tunderstand anything on the label in termsof origin status”. He believes the tradebears the responsibility, both for stockingdifferent styles of Pinot Gris and forpromoting them to the consumer. Interms of entry-level examples, he says:“People are not buying Pinot Grigiobecause it’s their favourite wine, they’rebuying it because it’s there at that price.”However, more premium examples inthe US$8-US$15 (£6-£11.70) bracket arebenefitting from what he calls “ademographic change in consumers with different buying attitudes”.“Pinot Gris is seeing good developmentamong an audience that is more open-minded; among millennial or certainlyyounger consumers, it does well,” hesays. “These people are not Chardonnayand Cabernet consumers; they’re not theclassical wine drinker. They’re younger,with a higher disposable income and aremore adventurous. The average consumerdoesn’t necessarily know many detailsabout the wine they’re buying, but theydo know what they’re willing to spend.It’s up to the trade to change this.”While the Pinot Grigio delle VenezieDOC concentrates on improving quality,how is the grape performing in the rest ofthe world? Reed of Majestic believes that

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‘Pinot Gris is seeing gooddevelopment among anaudience that is moreopen-minded; amongmillennial or younger

consumers, it does well’

pinot gr igio

Trade talk: What does Pinot Grigio need to do to remainrelevant in the face of increasing competition from otherpopular white grape varieties?

Sebastiano Bonomo, export manager, Giusti Wine“As the Pinot Grigio grape is very popular worldwide, we need topromote its characteristics and its versatility; only in this way will itcontinue to be so well known. The importance of the brand is crucialfor the business and Pinot Grigio has the opportunity to be recognisedas a wine brand in itself.”

Andrea Nicolini, export director EMEA and Asia, Cavit“Pinot Grigio has long been relevant to Trentino and Cavit, and ourpriority is to make sure we continue to produce quality wines acrossthe spectrum – from entry-level up to the pinnacle of what the regioncan produce. Since Cavit was founded in 1950, we have alwaysensured we work closely with our family of growers, and share our advancements in viticultural techniques and knowledge with them to ensure access to the best grapes with the best character from the best plots.”

Stefano Ferrante, chief winemaker, Zonin1821“Pinot Grigio should stop being perceived as a ‘commodity’. Thisconstituted its success in the past, but it can limit it now. Pinot Grigiohas important intrinsic qualities, being a white and red grape together,capable of expressing a remarkable complexity that is difficult for otherwhite varieties to replicate. Therefore, I believe that Pinot Grigio winesshould explore a new path, explained and accompanied by dedicatedpromotional activity that focuses on its inherant quality. More complexand flavourful wines are the key to the success of Pinot Grigio.”

Albino Armani, president, Consorzio delle Venezie DOC“Pinot Grigio needs to maintain a winning style. This is why consumerschoose our product and we must not lose consumers who care aboutit. We’ll also work towards improving the quality of Pinot Grigioproduced. Working with the grape growers, bottlers and traders, wehave a long history of this in Italy and can attract the consumer withcompetitive pricing. The importance of our work and the way peoplesee it is shown in the fact that the Italian government believes in it,invests in it and helps to promote it. We also need to connect with themedia and trade more to promote what we are doing.”

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while Italian reigns supreme in the entry-level market, the retailer is experiencingpremium-end growth in French PinotGris. “The entry-level market for PinotGrigio remains strong, with manyconsumers drawn to the easy-drinkingstyles that the grape is ideal for. Italyremains the heartland, although EasternEuropean nations, such as Romania, alsomake incredibly good value for moneyexamples, he says. “Where we're seeingreal growth is at the more premium end.

Italy is a production hotbed

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lack of style clarity, similar to Riesling inregards to its residual sugar level”. Vriend, comparing consumer sentimenttowards the variety to the CabernetSauvignon versus Merlot dynamic, says:“There’s a huge market for cheaperMerlot, which becomes much smaller forthe premium sector. Above £10, Merlot isoff the shelf and Cabernet startsdominating. As soon as you go past £10the market is dominated by Chardonnayand New Zealand Sauvignon Blanc. “It’s up to the trade to change this.Stores should suggest wines based onoccasions, such as matching with differentcuisines, and do more to indicatesweetness, body and main flavours.” Aside from its affinity with food andability to be either neutral andinoffensive, or spicy and aromatic, thePinot Gris grape itself is versatile. Usedfor sparkling wines around the world, itsred skins produce naturally pigmentedrosés that have found an audience amonga new generation of wine drinkers. Liberty’s consumer research revealedthat rosé-drinking millennials are twice aslikely as the average consumer to opt forPinot Grigio rosato, whereas their oldercounterparts are more likely to favour arosé from Provence. The variety has even found favour inEngland, where a handful of producers

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We've seen a lift in sales from France(largely Alsace and the South West) ofalmost 30% at Majestic since April.”Outside of Italy, the next-largestconcentration of Pinot Gris plantings is inthe US (15% of plantings), Germany(10%), Australia (7%), France (5%), andNew Zealand and Moldova, both with4%. Increasingly, though, the rise ofproducts such as gin and fruit wine areputting pressure on entry-level PinotGrigio, while, as Vriend says, inexpensivewines from California are experiencing adecline in production “owing to the factthat producers will get more money fornuts than grapes at the moment”. Paul Schaafsma, managing director ofBenchmark Drinks, adds: “The rise of ginand fruit wine has put pressure on theentry-level ‘beverage alcohol’ sector,where the majority of switching drinkerssit, hence the pressure on Pinot Grigio’svolumes and price point.” Vriend believes that it’s important toinvest in production areas that proffer

quality and value for money, such as inWashington State, a region in which thewineries owned by the Ste Michelle groupmake seven out of every 10 bottlesproduced. While neighbouring Oregon ismore commonly associated with top-notchPinot Gris, Vriend says the higher farmingcosts in the state mean production pricesare almost double that of Washington. Hesays Washington, which generallyproduces a Pinot Gris most akin in style toGerman examples, is experiencing “anupward trend for Pinot Gris”, while inOregon, new planting figures reveal amove towards Chardonnay.

PLAYING TO ITS STRENGTHSHutchinson of Babich believes the varietyshould be playing to its strengths to betterfulfil its potential. Sales of New ZealandPinot Gris in the UK on-trade, inparticular, are rising dramatically, withvolume sales up by 39% and value salesby 79%, albeit from a small base.“If Pinot Gris producers continue tofocus on delivering complexity, palateweight and interest then the varietyshould continue to compete,” saysHutchinson. “The variety has nicefruit characteristics with some spicefor interest. Its drinkability and softtexture make it flexible with mostfoods and occasions. But it has anatural tendency to over-crop, whichcreates quite a neutral wine.Consumers don’t have insight intowhether the wine they are buying isin a neutral style or a fuller, moreflavourful style, so it can suffer with a

‘If Pinot Gris producerscontinue to focus on

delivering complexity, palateweight and interest then

the variety should continue to compete’

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International Pinot Grigio plantings

Source: Pinot Grigio delle Venezie DOC

Germany10%

US 15%

8.485ha

24,501 ha

57,183ha Global total

5,947 ha

3,731 ha

Italy 43%

Australia7%

France5%

NZ4%

Other12%

Moldavia4%

Adam Hazeldine, Babich head winemaker Majestic’s James Reed

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are exploiting its ability to ripen anddevelop complexity in coolertemperatures. Sussex producer Fox & Foxplanted Pinot Gris in its vineyards in 2005and 2010. Using Pinot Gris in its SaignéeBrut Rosé, it gives the variety prominencein its Blanc de Gris, which co-ownerJonica Fox says was created to pair wellwith “contemporary cuisines such asstreet food and spicier dishes”. Still wine specialists Stopham Estatelikens its Pinot Gris to Australianexamples, in that it delivers tropical fruitflavours with a medium to full body.While its winemaker and director, SimonWoodhead, says the variety is particularlysusceptible to rain, with its thin-skinnedgrapes, when conditions are favourable,as in 2014 and this year, Pinot Gris hasbuckets of potential.Improvements in the quality of PinotGris need to be reinforced through bettercommunication with the trade and media. Andrea Nicolini, export director EMEA& Asia for Cavit, highlights the efforts ofproducers to improve vineyardmanagement and grape handling. Cavituses PICA, a vineyard-mapping system itdeveloped to ensure that the bestviticultural techniques and picking timesfor each parcel of land are adhered to.“We don’t just use PICA for our premiumwines – we use it for all our winesthroughout the quality scale. For us, it’s a

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pinot gr igio

Trade talk: What does Pinot Grigio need to do to remainrelevant in the face of increasing competition from otherpopular white grape varieties?

Massimo Sensi, owner, Sensi Vini“We at Sensi are working hard to improve the quality level andcommercial status of Pinot Grigio. We think that when a grape is sopopular, we have to invest to raise its quality level, to make it clearlystand out from all other white grapes and from the Pinot Grigioproduced in different countries that aim to take advantage of the nameof the original. It is a big challenge, and we trust the new harvest willhelp us to make Pinot Grigio known for its quality credentials.”

Paolo Lasagni, managing director, Bosco Viticultori“To remain such a popular white variety, Pinot Grigio has to furtherimprove its consistency in quality and have a stronger identity. That isthe direction the new consortium DOC delle Venezie (the largest PinotGrigio region in the world) is going towards: higher control, higherquality, and a certification band on all bottles.”

Flavio Geretto, export area manager, Villa Sandi“From the 2017 harvest, a new domination called DOC delle Veneziewas established, and this is a very important link with the productionarea. The new consortium will have to work hard to inform all theforeign markets about the production area and the typicalcharacteristics of this grape. Education programmes, communicationand advertising will be the main ways to confirm Pinot Grigio DOC delleVenezie as the first choice of consumers.”

Sander Vriend, division manager Europe, Ste. Michelle“The generic quality aspect to a product is important. Very smallcategories with generic premium goods tend to deliver and translatebetter to consumers. The on-trade segment must start to offer morePinot Gris for it to gain more influence. They will get more peopledrinking it by putting it as a by-the-glass offering. The challenge isnever the consumer – it's the gatekeeper. You must get the gatekeeperto change their habits for Pinot Gris to remain relevant.”

key viticultural tool, and thanks to it wecan now produce some ‘icon’ wines fromTrentino, including Rulendis, a super-premium Pinot Grigio that has an RRP of£19 in the UK,” he says. Pinot Gris is capable of producingsparkling and rosé wines, while carefulhandling in old oak barrels can buildinterest with added texture and weight.The versatility of the variety, therefore, issomething that should be exploited byproducers to maintain Pinot Gris’enviable position in the market. db

Improvements in thequality of Pinot Grisshould be reinforced

through bettercommunication, both

with the trade and media

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