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The Classic Corn Snake

Corn snakes, also called red rat snakes, are often referred to as the first truly domesticated pet snake. They make a great introductory species for the beginning herpetoculturist interested in keeping snakes. Corn snakes have gained such widespread appeal due to their ease of care, calm demeanor, easily handled size, and the amazing amount of color and pattern morphs available. Corn snakes came by their unusual name because farmers would find them in corn fields and corn cribs, where harvested corn was stored. The snakes were drawn to these areas of human habitation in search of rodent prey who were in turn drawn by an easy feast of corn on the cob.

DescriptionCorn snakes are a slim bodied constricting colubrid that typically reach lengths of 4-6 feet. The wild type or normal form of corn snake is a beautiful animal with either a light

orange, brown, or gray body color with red and orange saddles outlined in black. In captivity, corn snakes may live healthy happy lives more than 20 years. Captive corn snakes have now been bred in a variety of colors and patterns.

Natural historyCorn snakes are native to vast ranges of the United States and Mexico. They are crepuscular animals that are active mainly at night and during the hours of dawn and dusk. In the wild, young corn snakes will feed on small lizards and frogs while adults eat rodents and even birds. Corn snakes are not known to be endangered in the wild and are listed as a species of least concern on the IUCN red list of threatened species. The IUCN (International Union for Conservation of Nature) is a global conservation network involved with conserving biodiversity and the red list is used to evaluate the conservation status of many species on the planet. They have evaluated wild populations of corn snakes and found that these have remained relatively stable over the course of three generations. This is due to the adaptability of corn snakes who are able to deal fairly well with human encroachment into their native territory. Although some states in the US such as Georgia, New Jersey, and Tennessee have granted them protective status and it is indeed illegal to own captive corn snakes in Georgia and Delaware.

Herpetoculture 101 By

Lillie Nyte

TaxonomyThere is a fair amount of taxonomic confusion associated with the scientific name for the common corn snake. Corn snakes were originally classed as Elaphe guttata guttata and according to the ITIS (Integrated Taxonomic Information System) database this is still the valid nomenclature. However, as early as 2002 researchers were using DNA evidence to propose a change from the genus Elaphe to a separate genus known as Pantherophis citing genetic differences between North American rat snakes and old world rat snakes. Herpetoculturists have been using the terms interchangeably and some prefer to stick with the tried and true Elaphe guttata guttata while others will tell you that Pantherophis guttatus guttatus is more accurate.

Captive careAdult corn snakes can be easily contained in 20-30 gallon tanks or plastic tubs of similar size. Floor space is more important than vertical space because although corn snakes can climb (I have even observed them climbing a vertical surface!) They spend the majority of their time on the ground. Neonates and juveniles are easily kept in plastic sweater boxes with a perimeter length that is 1.5 times the length of the snake. Providing a hide of some type is always important with any species of snake since it makes the animal feel more secure by having a private place to retreat to. A fresh bowl of water is also an important feature to provide even though you may not observe them drinking very often. Corn snakes prefer drier conditions compared to more tropical species so misting is not required unless you observe any difficulties in shedding. My

preferred substrate is aspen bedding or shredded newspaper since it is easily cleaned and allows them to burrow into it. If you experience shedding difficulties or have extremely dry room conditions as can sometimes happen in dry northern climates during the winter months, cypress mulch might make a better substrate since cypress mulch will hold humidity better. I do not recommend any type of artificial small animal

bedding such as Carefresh since those types of materials are made to absorb moisture and may cause conditions that are too dry. Corn snakes do well at a

temperature range in the mid-70's to mid-80's and a basking spot at about 90-95 degrees may be provided although I feel it is not absolutely necessary as long as the ambient temps do not fall below the mid to low 70's. I keep my reptile room climate controlled at a constant 75-80 degrees therefore I do not add heat to most of my colubrid enclosures.

Corn snakes are easily fed a diet of frozen and thawed rodents of varying sizes. Neonates can be started on small pink mice while large adults will take adult mice and even rats. It is highly recommended that the girth of prey items are no more than one and a half times the girth of the widest part of the snake otherwise the snake may regurgitate a prey item that is too large. While some may

disagree with me, I cannot stress enough the importance of feeding frozen/thawed or pre-killed prey items as live prey can cause injury to the snake. Babies and juveniles should be fed every 5-7 days while adults may be fed every 7-10 days, even up to 2 weeks.

BreedingBefore attempting to breed any species of animal, make sure that you are prepared for the experience and expense of dealing with more little mouths to house, clean, and feed, and that you are able to find a market for the ones you plan to sell. Keeping in mind that corn snakes average 15-20 eggs in a clutch. Also keep in mind that females may experience difficulties related to breeding such as dystocia also known as egg-binding and that veterinary care may be required. Corn snake males should be at least 2 years of age and females 3 years of age before attempting to breed. To promote breeding activity, breeders will typically brumate (a process similar to hibernation) their corn snakes starting in mid November or early December. It is important to note here that all feeding activity should be ceased three weeks before brumation to allow all food to be properly digested and waste products ejected before brumation begins because these colder temperatures will not allow your corn snakes to digest any food left in their systems. Brumation is a time of low activity for corn snakes, the temperature of their enclosures is allowed to drop to 50-55 degrees and extra lighting is removed. Some keepers will move their corn snake enclosures to a cool dark basement or closet. Water should still be provided always as corn snakes will still drink as necessary but otherwise they should be left undisturbed and they will not be fed during this time. Most breeders will bring their corn snakes out of brumation anywhere from as

early as mid January to early March by simply turning heating and lighting back on and allowing the snake to warm back up naturally. After a week of normal temperatures, feeding starts again – start by feeding smaller than average size prey and working up to regular size meals over a 3-4 week period. The males will typically shed during this period which signifies their readiness to breed and females will shed soon after. After everyone has shed, breeding introductions can be made and you will observe the males vigorously courting females. Successful copulation will have occurred if you observe the pair lock their tails and the male's hemipenes will penetrate the female's vent. The male and female may be introduced to each other several more times until the female starts to show gravidity by having a slight swelling in the lower half of their bodies just above the vent. At this time no more copulation is necessary and the female will shed again, known as a pre-lay shed, after which the eggs should be laid within 7-10 days. The female should be provided a nest box, usually a plastic bin half filled with moist sphagnum moss wherein the female can go to lay her eggs. After laying the female should be fed a few small meals working up to regular sized meals and allowed to regain her original weight and body condition. Once the eggs have been laid they should be carefully removed from the nest box without disturbing the position they were originally laid in and placed in an incubator set to 78-80 degrees. The eggs should be placed in a plastic box containing vermiculite mixed with just enough water that it will pack into a tight “snowball” without yielding more than a drop or two of water. The box should be tightly closed and opened once a week to allow for air exchange and to check for any bad eggs which would need to

be removed. Eggs will typically hatch after being incubated for 55-70 days. At the end of this period you will see babies start to emerge from their eggs, allow them to emerge on their own without disruption as they may still be absorbing the rest of their yolk and will sit in the egg until this is accomplished and removing them forcibly will cause them harm. After a few days they will shed their first skins and be ready to take their first meals of small pink mice.

MorphsSince the introduction of the first captive bred amelanistic or albino corn snake by Dr. H. Bernard Bechtel in 1961, corn snake breeders have developed an ever increasing list of proven morphs. Corn snakes have become so prolific in captivity that Charles Pritzel and Connie Hurley from CCCorns created a database in 2005 called the American Corn

snake Registry (ACR) to track captive bred ancestry. Charles Pritzel also publishes an annual Corn snake Morph Guide listing all known morphs at the time of printing. Along with the seemingly endless amount of selectively bred lines and genetic morphs corn snakes have also been hybridized with other species of ratsnakes, kingsnakes, milksnakes and snakes from the genus Pituophis (pine snakes, bull snakes, and gopher snakes).

This wide variety of forms has led to the ever increasing popularity of the corn snake in the herpetocultural world. There is an almost endless amount of possibilities contained in this amazing species and they are a joy to keep and observe in the captive environment.

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