gucci - centre for sustainable...

GUCCI

THE KERING AWARDS FOR

SUSTAINABLE FASHION 2019

“GUCCI REPRESENTS INNOVATION AT KERING”

— ROSSELLA RAVAGLI, GUCCI

“WHAT WE CAN INDIVIDUALLY CREATE IS NOT AS GREAT AS WHAT WE CAN ACHIEVE

TOGETHER. ”— DILYS WILLIAMS, CSF

BOTH KERING AND LONDON

COLLEGE OF FASHION RECOGNISE

SUSTAINABILITY AS THE GREATEST

CREATIVE CHALLENGE AND

IMPERATIVE OF OUR TIME

The Kering Award has been developedat the Centre for Sustainable Fashion at the London College of Fashion and ispart of a five-year partnership to support sustainable design and viable innovation in the fashion industry.

Through our partnership, we bring together the knowledge and expertise of academia and industry to empower

INTRODUCTION

imagination with the goal of shaping a better future through fashion. This partnership offers an unparalleled opportunity to identify and honour work that shows imagination, creative excellence and sustainable innovation.

Applications from LCF students will be accepted up to 08 Feb 2019. From there, selected students will be invited to take

part in two phases: an immersion in the briefs (30 students, Feb-March 2018) and a mentoring programme (10 finalists, April-July 2018).

The Kering Award will be granted to work which demonstrates exceptional innovation and rigour in the fields of fashion and sustainability applied to business, design and communication.

There will be two prizes of €10,000, and two paid internships with the brand for the winning students.

The Kering Award is an opportunity for final year BA and MA students at LCF to engage with business and design leaders, and to be offered insight into the Gucci brand.

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PARTNERS

KERING: REDEFINING LUXURY & SUSTAINABILITY

A global Luxury group, Kering manages the development of a series of renowned Houses in Fashion, Leather Goods, Jewelry and Watches: Gucci, Saint Laurent, Bottega Veneta, Balenciaga, Alexander McQueen, Brioni, Boucheron, Pomellato, Dodo, Qeelin, Ulysse Nardin, Girard-Perregaux, as well as Kering Eyewear.

By ‘empowering imagination’ in the fullest sense, Kering encourages its brands to reach their potential, in the most sustainable manner. Present in more than 120 countries, in 2017 Kering had nearly 29,000 employees and restated revenue of €10.816 billion.

“WE WILL LOOK TO THE NEXT GENERATION, TO YOU, FOR NEW, INSPIRED IDEAS AND SOLUTIONS TO EMBED SUSTAINABILITY IN OUR PRODUCTS AND THROUGHOUT OUR SUPPLY CHAINS.”

— François-Henri Pinault, CEO

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PARTNERS

CENTRE FOR SUSTAINABLE FASHION: 10 YEARS OF GLOBAL CHANGE-MAKING

CSF is a world-renowned research centre, made up of a community of researchers, designers, makers, educators, and communicators. Our work has placed sustainability at the centre of the global fashion agenda. CSF has ten years experience of nurturing new talent through sustainable business and sustainable design support programmes. Over 100 London based designers have benefitted from working with CSF, including Christopher Raeburn and Michelle Lowe Holder.

“FASHION IS A SOCIAL PROCESS BETWEEN PEOPLE WITH NATURE THAT IS MEDIATED THROUGH THE CREATING, DISTRIBUTING, WEARING AND CARING OF CLOTHES THAT REPRESENT OUR IDENTITIES, OUR SAFETY AND OUR DELIGHT IN THE WORLD. ”

— Professor Dilys Williams, Director

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In the 1940s when material shortages threatened to close the business, Gucci found new ways to define luxury. Resourcefulness and lateral thinking led to the Gucci of today.

Gucci’s sustainability strategy is founded on a Culture of Purpose, built on three main pillars: People, Environment, New Models. A sense of purpose defines and articulates the values that make them who they are. Gucci knows that their brand and their people are committed agents of social & environmental change, and they take that seriously.

ABOUT GUCCI

For this reason, in 2018 Gucci Equilibrium was launched – the dedicated portal where they state their goals and achievements. This is the heart of Gucci’s mission to bring positive change in order to secure our collective future. It’s a balance of the aesthetics of the things they produce with the ethics in which they believe, and a program & platform designed to connect people, planet and purpose.

Throughout Gucci Equilibrium, the company can constantly update stakeholders on their

progress in ensuring that every decision they make is the right one on behalf of people and the planet.

As a company, Gucci strives to manage the planet’s finite resources, and build a culture of respect. At the same time, their people are also free to innovate, create, and grow.

These are critical times when we can all play our part in helping to deliver on the UN Global Goals and the Paris Climate Agreement. The only way to do that is by bringing people together, sharing ideas, innovation and experiences.

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“This brief asks you to consider how your work can capture and enhance the spirit of possibility that Gucci embodies. We invite you to join us in this challenge, using your skills and creativity to contribute to a new role for this most iconic of brands – as a beacon for sustainability in fashion.”

BRIEFS: DESIGN FOCUS

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1.ENVIRONMENT: A WORLD WITHOUT FUR CONTEXTOn October 2017, Gucci made headlines when Marco Bizzarri, President and CEO, announced that they would no longer source animal fur in their products. Attitudes have changed towards fur and as a material it no longer reflects the values they hold. Gucci is now faced with the challenge of ensuring that any fur alternative materials used are environmentally sustainable. CHALLENGEThis challenge calls for the exploration of fur alternative materials with a minimized environmental footprint. Can we change cultures and perceptions around fur and faux fur? Is it possible to encourage a wider luxury move to alternatives, and potentially make a global shift away from these materials altogether?

In relation to this overarching challenge, we are particularly interested in:

— An exploration of fur alternatives with a minimized environmental footprint

— Future models: imagining a world without fur

2.NEW MODELS: GUCCI FOR THE CIRCULAR ECONOMY CONTEXTGucci-Up is a circular economy initiative within Gucci Equilibrium focused on the upcycling of waste leather and textiles generated during the production process. The initiative also partners with social cooperatives in Italy working with marginalised groups, to train and re-integrate people back into their communities. CHALLENGEThe challenge is to identify and assess all pre-consumer waste streams, and create systems to recover, repair, reprocess, reuse and resell materials and products. How can you extend product lifetimes, or design waste out entirely with zero waste supply chains? In relation to this overarching challenge, we are particularly interested in:

— Design models that avoid waste, designing it out from the start

— Business models for repair, resale, recycling that can truly reflect the value & craft of fashion

— Partnership models for collaborative circular textiles systems – looking at pre and/or post-consumer waste

These briefs are aimed at design and technology students, however anyone can respond to them. Your challenge is to use your design skills and thinking, craft and creativity to present new and exciting modes of sustainability.

BRIEFS: COMMUNICATION FOCUS

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1.PEOPLE / ENVIRONMENT / NEW MODELS:COMMUNICATING EQUILIBRIUM CONTEXTGucci Equilibrium is the dedicated portal where their sustainability goals and achievements are stated. Equilibrium is a balance of the aesthetics of the things produced with the ethics in which they believe. Equilibrium is also a program and platform designed to connect people, planet and purpose. CHALLENGESustainability-focused messages (especially related to the social or environmental impacts of products) can be seen to conflict with the traditional essence of luxury and consumers’ expectations.The challenge asks – is it possible to transform this mindset? How can you create a smart, effective way of conveying these messages? How can you change sustainability-related messages into a value proposition?


— Communications strategies for varied platforms – creating a compelling sustainability narrative

— Social media campaigns to amplify the Equilibrium message and drive traffic to the website

— Advertising campaigns (digital / print) to increase awareness of and engagement with Gucci Equilibrium

2.PEOPLE / NEW MODELS:PROVENANCE STORIES CONTEXTGucci is committed to championing craftsmanship and design excellence, sharing stories behind the brand on their website. As consumers increasingly ask about the provenance of the products that they buy, there is a need to find ways to enhance and communicate the traceability of our supply chains. CHALLENGEThe challenge is to build stories around materials, craftsmanship, and global production chains. How can you effectively communicate these with customers before and at the point of sale? How can you share engaging stories about the journeys of products from concept to shop floor with our customers?


— Exploring solutions to track and collate provenance stories

— Creating engaging solutions for communicating

stories with customers

These briefs are aimed at communications and media students, however anyone can respond to them. Your challenge is to use your communication skills – from journalism and public relations to photography, creative direction, illustration or technical effects – to present a new and exciting view of sustainability.

BRIEFS: COMMUNICATION FOCUS

3.ENVIRONMENT / NEW MODELS:A CONSUMER-FACING EP&L CONTEXTAll of Kering Group’s brands supply chain impacts are now accounted for by an EP&L (Environmental Profit & Loss account). An Environmental Profit & Loss account allows a company to measure in monetary value the costs and benefits it generates for the environment, and in turn to make more sustainable business decisions. To measure the true environmental footprint carbon emissions, water use, water pollution, land use, air pollution and waste are examined.

To really understand the impacts, the following elements are analysed throughout the value chain: Raw materials / Processing / Manufacturing / Assembly / Operations / Retail. CHALLENGEAs consumers become increasingly engaged with the topic of sustainability, they are asking more questions and demanding more from brands. This challenge is to communicate EP&L calculations with customers, allowing them to make fully informed purchasing decisions and ensuring that results & reasoning can be easily understood.


— Exploring new ways of sharing EP&L data for customers to calculate and compare options on Gucci products – with the potential development of a tool to enable product specific calculations before purchase.

— Extending the existing EP&L app or calculator across the Gucci digital customer experience and across Gucci sites & apps.

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BRIEFS: BUSINESS FOCUS

1.PEOPLE: GENDER EQUALITY, DIVERSITY & INCLUSION CONTEXTAt Gucci, a key challenge is working to reach goals relating to gender equality, diversity and inclusion. The business has an opportunity to understand and incorporate the views and values of new generations to address the challenges relating to gender equality, diversity and inclusion. Gucci also has the opportunity to observe, study and anticipate expectations of their customers and audience about sustainability. CHALLENGEThis challenge explores issues of gender equality, diversity and inclusion within the fashion industry in an open-minded, curious, innovative and collaborative manner. How can you imagine new solutions, discover connections or find inspiration from other business sectors?


— Strategies to extend the reach of Gucci to broader demographics to increase the diversity of the workforce

— Exploring and developing employee engagement, networking and support initiatives to provide an inclusive and supportive working environment

— Exploring and developing physical workplace initiatives to provide a safe & inclusive working environment

2.PEOPLE / NEW MODELS: ENGAGING THE POPULATION CONTEXTGucci wants to empower all of its employees to become committed citizens of the world, leveraging on the concept of grassroot activism, and thereby enabling them to contribute to making the world a better place. In 2020 Gucci plans to celebrate the 10th anniversary of its sustainability plan – meaning that all Gucci employees should be fully immersed with the strategy, with sustainability understanding and thinking ingrained in everyday business practice, in an empowered, strong action-oriented and inclusive corporate culture. CHALLENGEThis challenge asks you to explore new ways of engaging Gucci employees with the Gucci Equilibrium platform. There is also potential to extend it to the wider customer population in the future, ingraining Gucci Equilibrium across every business activity and customer touch point.


— Developing engaging and up to date content related to Gucci’s CSR strategy

— Providing learning opportunities through digital training – with potential relevance to both employees and customers.

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These briefs are aimed at business students, however anyone can respond to them. Your challenge is to use your creative skills – from marketing, management, entrepreneurship and innovation to merchandising, retail, psychology or strategy – to present a new and exciting take on sustainability.

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CAN YOU OFFER IDEAS, CONCEPTS AND PROTOTYPES THAT RESPOND TO GUCCI’S SPIRIT OF POSSIBILITY IN A WAY THAT IS RELEVANT AND INSPIRATIONAL FOR THE NEXT HUNDRED YEARS?

WHO CAN APPLY?

THE KERING AWARDS ARE OPEN TO:

— All current final year BA students at London College of Fashion, across design, business and media schools.

— All current Masters students at London College of Fashion, across design, business and media schools.

— You can apply as an individual or in teams of up to two people.

— You can apply for more than one brief, from any of the categories.

HOW WILL YOU BENEFIT?

— Explore and develop your work with additional mentoring from the brand, Kering and CSF.

— Unrivalled insight into the workings of global enterprise Kering and expert sustainability research.

— Be selected for your exemplary work and considered for a cash award of €10,000.

— Be offered a paid placement for up to three months with Gucci.

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TIMELINE

Deadline for applications:08 Feb 2019

Lab Day30 students will be selected to take part in a one-day workshop to understand more deeply the context of the brief, sustainability thinking & brand identity27 Feb 2019 at LCF

Interim Presentations30 students will deliver to a selection panel from CSF, Gucci and Kering27 March 2019 at Kering

Mentoring Programme10 students selectedApril-July 2019

Final presentations at Kering HQ17 July 2019

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GUIDANCE NOTES

For the application stage, we are looking for you to demonstrate:

— an initial response to the brief — an understanding of the brief — an introductory understanding of

sustainability thinking and practice — evidence of research scope & depth

For the interim and final presentations, we will be looking for:

— an ability to engage with, analyse, research and respond to the specific sustainability challenge/ opportunities of the brand

— an ability to conceive and develop original ideas

— engagement in critical thinking to apply concept to feasible outcome

— a holistic viewpoint on the fashion industry, its critical dimensions in ecological, economic, cultural and social terms

— creative ways to illuminate and communicate through a variety of appropriate visual and verbal mediums, both digital and physical

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HOW TO APPLY

Register to take part at the Workflow site:In order to apply for the Kering Award 2019, you will need to create your own Workflow page and submit it by 08 Feb 2019. You may submit an application for more than one brief from any of the categories.

Please include the following in your page:

— personal profile (150 words) — your concept (250 words) — what is your approach to

sustainability in your practice? (200 words)

— visual, film or written rationale (2 min video, 8 slides/images, or 500 words)

Remember to demonstrate:

— an initial response to the brief — an understanding of the brand — an introductory understanding of

sustainability thinking and practice — evidence research scope and depth

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Access Workflow at http://workflow.arts.ac.uk/ and log in using your UAL username and password.

HOW TO CREATE YOUR APPLICATION

To create a page, click on the Portfolio menu at the top and then Pages and Collections. Click on ‘Add’ and then ‘Page’.

If you haven’t used Workflow before, here are some quick directions to get you started on building your page for submission.

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You will find much more detailed information on how to put your page together by following the Support link at the bottom of any Workflow page.

On the page that loads, enter the title for your page and click the “Save” button at the bottom. You can now begin to add content to your page by dragging items from the palette of available items on the left to the space on the right. Once you have your page as you want it and you are ready to submit, when you are viewing your page that you want to submit, at the bottom of the page select “The Kering Award 2019” in the dropdown and click “Submit”.cli

You can submit an application for more than one brief, and can apply for any of the briefs from Design, Communication or Business regardless of what course you are on.

You will also need to sign a Student Agreement that includes confidentiality and intellectual property clauses. This will be available on Workflow and needs to be uploaded to Moodle to make your application valid.

http://workflow.arts.ac.uk/

http://elearningsupport-workflow.myblog.arts.ac.uk/

What does ‘sustainability’ mean to Gucci?

“We are committed to a Culture of Purpose. A sense of purpose defines and articulates the values that make us who we are. We work putting positive environmental and social impact at the very heart of the brand in order to secure our collective future. We strive to operate in a transparent, ethical manner and we encourage our supply chain to adopt responsible business practices. A Culture of Purpose means that we can answer the expectations of our customers, our employees, our suppliers and everyone in the wider Gucci family. But, in order to a real purpose, you need to demonstrate that you have integrity. Integrity is what we value most at Gucci.”

GUCCI: ADDITIONAL INFORMATION I.

How does Gucci incorporate sustainability into its business models?

“Equilibrium means that we are committed to bringing the very best quality to our customers, while aiming for a positive environmental and social impact. Developing our sustainability strategy based on the three pillars, we are able to incorporate sustainability into our business decisions. We search out sustainable materials, find the least invasive processes, dream up innovative solutions and, importantly, look after the people who help us to achieve all this. A dedicated CSR team ensures the coordination and monitoring of all environmental and social projects.”

How does Gucci embed sustainability in the design process of their luxury products?

“We are constantly working to discover more sustainable materials in order to develop products that have a lower impact on the environment. In line with Kering’s sustainability strategy, we have established targets to ensure that 95% of our raw materials are traceable to source by 2018, rising to 100% by 2025. Our own Creative and Product Development Departments works with our recommended list of materials and manufacturing processes as well as an eco-dictionary and a list of the most innovative, renewable materials.”

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What are Gucci’s top three sustainability challenges?

— Working to reach goals related to gender equality, diversity and inclusion;

— Working to discover more sustainable raw materials and processes;

— To implement new reliable and effective ways to measure and communicate our positive social and environmental impacts.

Do those challenges differ across Communications and CSR? If so, how?

“We believe that communications and CSR should be approached together to come to the best holistic resolution. In recent years, we have decided to communicate in a transparent manner our commitment to sustainability, because it is now an integral part of our

GUCCI: ADDITIONAL INFORMATION II.

business. The challenge of the future will be to continue to be more and more an example of transparency, communicating our achievements and concrete results, being a stimulus also for other brands in the luxury sector.”

How could you best take advantage of a fresh influx of creativity to tackle those challenges?

— To understand and incorporate the views and values of new generations to address the challenges of diversity and inclusion challenges

— To have the curiosity to imagine new solutions, to discover connections and look at other business sectors

— To have the capacity of observing, studying and anticipating expectations of our customers and audience about sustainability.

What are Gucci’s top three sustainability opportunities?

— To attract a new generation of talented artisans aware of the importance of sustainability

— To enhance a circular economy system — To foster inclusion and diversity culture

What do you need to take advantage of those opportunities?

— To attract a new generation of talented artisans aware of the importance of sustainability: to reimagine craftsmanship, integrating sustainable innovation

— To enhance a circular economy system: to find new opportunities for collaboration with our supply chain

— To foster inclusion and diversity culture: to find new ways to inspire and engage the population – both customers and internally at Gucci

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SEE THE CENTRE FOR SUSTAINABLE FASHION WEBSITE FOR REGULAR

UPDATES ON ALL KERING OPPORTUNITIES

[email protected]

#LCFxKering

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