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Haircutting

HAIRCUTTING• Haircutting is the single most important service

you must master as a professional cosmetologist.

• A good haircut serves as the foundation of almost every other service in the salon.

• Most people avail themselves of regular haircuts, which makes it a tremendous source of revenue and repeat business.

PRINCIPLES OF HAIRCUTTING

• You need to develop an understanding of the important steps of the haircutting process.

• These principles include:– Sectioning– Combing– Elevating– Cutting the ends– Expected and predictable results for every

action or technique used.

ANATOMY OF THE SKULLREFERENCE POINTS

• Understanding the reference points helps ensure balance with the design.

• The reference points allow you to re-create the haircut again and again.

• The reference points allow you to know where and when to change technique, and to make up for irregularities such as a flat crown.

REFERENCE POINTS• Parietal ridge• Occipital bone• Apex• Four corners

PARIETAL RIDGE• The widest area of the

head

• Found by placing a comb flat on the head at the sides

• Where the head starts to curve away from the comb

• Also known as the crest

OCCIPITAL BONE• The bone that

protrudes at the base of the skull

• Found by feeling the skull, or placing a comb flat against the nape area and observing where the comb leaves the head

APEX• The highest point on

the top of the head

• Located by placing a comb flat on the top of the head

FOUR CORNERSCan be located in two ways:

– Place two combs flat against side and back; locate the back corner at the point where the two combs meet.

– Make two diagonal lines crossing the apex of the head, pointing directly to the front and back corners.

AREAS OF THE HEAD• Top• Front• Side• Crown• Nape• Back• Fringe (bangs area)

LINES AND ANGLES• Every haircut is made up

of lines and angles.

• Line is a thin continuous mark used as a guide.

• Angle is the space between lines or surfaces that intersect at a given point.

• The head is made up of curved and straight lines or surfaces.

STRAIGHT LINES

• There are three types of straight lines in haircutting:

– Horizontal– Vertical– Diagonal

HORIZONTAL LINES• Parallel to the floor

• Direct the eye from one side to the other

• Used in one-length and low-elevation haircuts

• Build weight

VERTICAL LINES• Up and down

• Perpendicular to the floor

• Used to create graduated or layered haircuts and used with higher elevations

• Remove weight

DIAGONAL LINES• Between horizontal and

vertical

• Slanting or sloping direction

• Used to create beveling (cutting the ends at a slight taper to create fullness)

• Used to create stacking and to blend long layers to short layers

ANGLES

• Basic geometry is important to haircutting because this is how shapes are created.

• Angles are important in elevation and cutting line.

ELEVATION• The angle or degree at which a subsection

of hair is held or elevated from the head when cutting is called elevation.

• Below 90 degrees builds weight.

• Above 90 degrees removes weight or layers the hair.

CUTTING LINE

• The angle where the fingers are held when cutting, and the actual line that is being cut.

• It is also called the finger angle, finger position, cutting position, cutting angle, and shears angle.

GUIDELINES

• Also called a guide

• Section of hair that determines length the hair will be cut

• Located at either the perimeter or the interior of the cut

• Usually the first section cut

STATIONARY GUIDE• Guide does not move.

• All other sections are combed to this guide and cut at the same angle or length.

• A blunt cut is an example.

TRAVELING GUIDE• It is also called a movable guide.

• This guide moves as the haircut progresses.

• When using this type of guide, take a small slice of the previously cut section and move it to the next subsection where it becomes the new guide.

• Is used often in layered haircuts.

BLUNT or ONE–LENGTH CUT

90-DEGREE ELEVATION

45-DEGREE ELEVATION

OVERDIRECTION• Overdirection occurs

when hair is combed away from its natural falling position.

• It is used in graduated and layered haircuts.

CLIENT CONSULTATION

• Have a conversation with your client to find out what the client is looking for.

• You can offer suggestions and professional advice, and come to a decision about the most suitable haircut.

• The desired look may include:– what the client wants.– time available for maintenance.– client’s lifestyle.– classic or trendy preference.

THE FACE SHAPE• Pull hair away with clip

• Note length and width of the face

• Note the balance of features:Weight Volume Profiles

HAIR ANALYSIS

• Density—number of individual hairs per square inch on scalp

• Texture—the general quality and feel of the hair

• Wave pattern—amount of movement in the hair

• Hairlines and growth patterns—cowlicks, whorls, and other growth patterns affect where the hair ends up once it is dry

ToolsBody Positions

Safety

HAIRCUTTING SHEARS• Shears are used to

cut blunt or straight lines as well as for other techniques.

• The terms shears and scissors may be used interchangeably.

THINNING SHEARS• Used to remove bulk from hair

• Also called texturizing shears, tapering shears, or notching shears

RAZORS• Used when a softer

effect is desired on hair ends

• Can be used for entire haircuts, to thin, and to texturize areas

• Can be used with or without guards

CLIPPERS AND EDGERS• Clippers are used for

creating short tapers, short haircuts, fades, flat tops, or to shave hair off right to the scalp

• Edgers are a smaller version of clippers; mainly used to remove excess or unwanted hair at the neckline and around ears.

COMBS• Styling or cutting comb is also

called an all-purpose comb.

• Barber comb is used for close tapers in the nape and sides when using the shears-over-comb technique.

• Wide-tooth comb is mainly used to detangle hair.

• Sectioning clips are available in a variety of shapes, styles, and sizes.

HOLDING SHEARS

• Proper placement of fingers and thumb

STILL AND MOVING BLADES

• Practice opening and closing shears.

• Concentrate on moving thumb only.

PALMING THE SHEARS• Remove thumb from

finger grip leaving ring and little fingers in the grip and finger rest.

• Curl fingers in to “palm” the shears to keep them closed while you comb or part hair.

PALMING THE SHEARS

While palming shears, hold comb between thumb, index, and middle fingers.

TRANSFERRING THE COMB• Get your fingers in

place at the correct cutting position.

• Transfer the comb by placing it between the thumb and index finger of your holding hand.

HOLDING THE RAZOR

METHOD A

• Open razor (handle should be higher than shank); place thumb on thumb grip and the index, middle, and ring fingers on shank.

HOLDING THE RAZOR

Place little finger in the tang.

When cutting, position razor on top of the subsection with the part facing you.

HOLDING THE RAZOR

METHOD B

• Open razor so handle and shank form a straight line.

• Place thumb on grip and wrap fingers around the handle.

HOLDING THE RAZOR

• When palming the razor, curl your ring finger and little finger to palm razor.

• Hold comb between thumb, index, and middle fingers.

TENSION• This is the amount of pressure applied when

combing and holding a subsection.

• It is created by stretching or pulling the subsection.

• It ranges from minimum to maximum.

• Finer, closer teeth of the comb produce more tension.

CUTTING OVER YOUR FINGERS

• This hand position is used most often when cutting uniform or increasing layers.

• Stand to the side of the section on which you are working.

CUTTING BELOW FINGERS• Use a horizontal cutting

line.

• Cut below the fingers or the inside of the knuckles.

• Use generally when cutting a one-length bob or a heavier graduated haircut.

CUTTING PALM TO PALM• The palms of both

hands are facing each other while cutting.

• Use when cutting a vertical cutting line.

• Also use when cutting a diagonal cutting line.

• This helps to prevent strain on your back as you work.

SAFETY IN HAIRCUTTING• Always palm shears and razor when combing or parting

hair.

• Do not cut past second knuckle.

• Take extra care cutting around the ears.

• When cutting bangs or any area close to the skin, balance shears by placing tip of index finger of nondominant hand on the pivot screw and the knuckles of the nondominant hand against the skin.

• Always use razor guard.

• Dispose of razor blades carefully.

SANITATION AND DISINFECTION PROCEDURES• Wash hands with soap and water.• Sweep up cut hair and dispose of properly before

proceeding with service.• Drape client properly.• Sanitize combs, brushes, shears, clips, and other

implements after each haircut.• Replace blade in razor prior to each client.• Discard blades in puncture-proof container • Maintain shears properly.• Sanitize workstation after each haircutting service.

SUMMARY• It is very important to develop strong haircutting skills.• A good haircut serves as the foundation for numerous

other services.• We have the relevance of understanding the anatomy of

the head, elevations, angles, and degrees.• The five characteristics of hair (density, texture, wave

pattern, hairlines, and growth pattern) play an important role in your ability to create a quality haircut.

• As in all services, it is important to practice proper sanitation and disinfection procedures for haircutting services.

• There is much more to learning how to cut hair.

BASIC HAIRCUTS

BLUNT HAIRCUT• This is also known as a

one-length haircut, zero-elevation cut, or no-elevation cut.

• All hair comes to one hanging level, forming a weight line or area.

• Stationary guide is used.

• This is a good cut for fine, thin hair.

GRADUATED HAIRCUT• There is a visual

buildup of weight.

• Ends appear to be “stacked.”

• Traveling guide is used.

LAYERED HAIRCUT• Is usually cut at a 90-

degree elevation

• Has less weight than graduated cuts

• Creates movement and volume

• Traveling and stationary guide can be used

LONG LAYERED HAIRCUT• This haircut is cut at a

180-degree elevation.

• It gives volume to styles.

• It can be combined with other cuts.

• Layers increase from short to longer toward the perimeter.

GENERAL HAIRCUTTING TIPS• Take consistent and clean partings.

• Take care with crown and neckline.

• Take care around ears.

• Use consistent tension.

• Pay attention to head position.

• Maintain even moisture.

• Always work with the guideline.

GENERAL HAIRCUTTING TIPS• Always cross-check the haircut by parting the haircut in

the opposite way from which you cut it to check for precision of line.

• Use mirror to see elevation.

• Stand in front to check side length.

• Remember curly hair shrinkage; it will shrink anywhere from ½ to 2 inches.

• Maintain correct body and hand posture.

OTHER BLUNT HAIRCUTS• The A-Line Bob• A diagonal cutting line

is used.

OTHER BLUNT HAIRCUTS

• Long Blunt Cut • Hair is held

between fingers with little tension.

BLUNT CUTS• Blunt Cut on Curly

Hair • Hair naturally

“graduates” itself when dry.

BLUNT CUTS• Classic Pageboy• Perimeter is curved,

using a combination of horizontal and curved lines.

TIPS FOR BLUNT HAIRCUTS• Use minimal or no tension.

• Work with natural growth patterns.

• Comb section twice before cutting.

• Maintain even moisture.

• Take precautions around ears.

SUMMARY• We have learned about one of the simplest and

most popular haircuts you will be expected to perform on a regular basis in the salon.

• The four basic types of haircuts are blunt, graduated, layers, and long layers.

• Cross-checking is parting the hair in the opposite way from which you cut it to check for precision of line and shape.

THE GRADUATED HAIRCUT• Also known as the 45-degree

elevation

• Implements and materials:• Towels• Shampoo cape• Shampoo and conditioner• Cutting cape• Wide-tooth comb• Cutting or styling comb• Four sectioning clips• Haircutting shears• Water spray bottle

Preparation:• Perform consultation

• Drape for shampooing

• Shampoo and condition hair

• Towel-dry hair

• Escort client back to chair and drape for haircut

THE CLASSIC GRADUATED BOB

• Vidal Sassoon made this cut popular.

• Diagonal sections and finger angles are used to create a rounded or beveled effect.

THE CLASSIC GRADUATED BOB

• Begin in the back using a 45-degree elevation throughout and gradually incorporate the sides and top.

• If hairline grows up, use the shears-over-comb technique to blend it.

SHORTER SHAPE ROUNDEDWEIGHT

• This haircut is created using diagonal partings that connect at the back of the ear.

• In front of the ear, the diagonal partings point down toward the face.

• Behind the ear, the diagonal partings point down toward the back.

SHORTER SHAPE ROUNDEDWEIGHT

• Sides are elevated and overdirected to the back of the ear, producing more length toward the face.

• The back is cut using a traveling guideline, with each section overdirected to the previous section.

TIPS FOR GRADUATED CUTS• Keep elevation below 45 degrees when working with

coarse textures and curly hair.

• Fine hair responds well to graduation; it builds weight and can make thin or fine hair appear thicker and fuller.

• If hair is both fine and thin, avoid creating heavy weight lines

• Softer graduation, using diagonal partings, will create a softer weight line.

• Check neckline; if hair grows up, leave longer so that it falls below the hairline; use shears-over-comb technique for tricky hairlines.

• Always use fine teeth of comb and maintain even tension to ensure a precise line.

90-DEGREE HAIRCUT• This cut is created with uniform layers.• All the hair is elevated to 90 degrees and cut at the

same length.• Your guide for the haircut is an interior traveling

guideline.

• An interior guideline is inside the haircut rather than on the perimeter.

• The resulting shape will appear soft and rounded with no built-up weight or corners.

• The perimeter of the hair will fall softly because of the vertical sections on the interior that reduce weight.

LONG LAYERED 180-DEGREE CUT

• This haircut uses increased layering.• It features progressively longer layers.• Your guide is an interior guide.• Start at the top of the head.• All remaining hair will be elevated up to

180 degrees to match the guide.

MEN’S SQUARE• Keep the “corners” by

keeping fingers vertical and not following the head form, thereby you create a square shape.

• This is common in a man’s basic haircut.

THE “SHAG”• This haircut is created with longer perimeter

lengths by cutting the top area the same as for uniform layers.

• Elevate the side and back sections straight up at 180 degrees to blend with the top length.

TIPS FOR LAYERED HAIRCUTS• Cut the interior first, then go back to the perimeter edges and cut

stronger lines, cut around the ears, or texturize where needed.

• Do not cut thin hair too short because it can expose the scalp.

• Do not cut coarse hair shorter than 3 inches; it needs length to hold it down.

• Do not cut top layers too short; it may take too much hair away from the rest of the haircut, and may leave you with a collapsed shape that is stringy at the bottom.

• Use slide cutting to connect top sections to the lengths; it will maintain maximum length and weight at the perimeter of the haircut.

TIPS FOR CUTTING CURLY HAIR• For every 1/4 inch you cut when the hair is wet, it

will shrink up to one inch when dry.

• Too much tension will stretch the hair more and cause more shrinkage.

• Curly hair naturally “graduates” itself.

• Leave lengths longer, which ultimately helps weigh the hair down and keeps the shape from shrinking or ending up too short.

• Do not use a razor; it can weaken the cuticle and cause hair to frizz.

• Choose texturizing techniques carefully.

CUTTING THE FRINGE (Bangs)• The fringe is the hair

that lies between the two front corners.

• A stationary guide may be used.

• Elevate hair to 90 degrees straight up from head to create the fringe.

SHORT FRINGE• It makes a strong

statement.

• It can be combined with a shorter layered haircut.

• The line can be curved.

• Cut with a low elevation and it will remain more solid-looking and not too heavy.

LONG FRINGE CUT

• Used with slide cutting, it will create a wispy effect that blends with long layers.

CUTTING A SMALL PORTION OFFRINGE AREA

• This keeps hair out of face.

• You might even use a razor.

TO BLEND OR NOT TO BLEND• If working with a blunt

haircut, fringe is usually one length.

• If working with layered or graduated shapes, the length of the fringe is usually blended into the sides and/or top.

RAZOR CUTTING

• A softer appearance is created when cutting with the razor.

• Hair is cut with one, fine blade.

• Good for medium to fine textures.

• The guide is above the fingers.

• Razor cutting is an entirely different experience from cutting with shears.

Razor-cut and shears-cut strands

RAZOR CUTTING

• Razor cutting parallel to subsection

• Hand position on cutting a vertical section

RAZOR CUTTING TIPS• Avoid using on coarse, wiry, curly, or damaged

hair.• Always use a guard.• Always use a new blade.• Keep hair wet.• Work with razor at an angle.• Never force razor through the hair.

SLIDE CUTTING• This is a method of

cutting or thinning the hair.

• Fingers and shears glide along edge of hair to remove length.

• It blends shorter lengths to longer lengths.

• It is useful in texturizing.

• Perform only on wet hair with razor-sharp shears.

SHEARS-OVER-COMB• Hair is held in place with comb.

• Tips of shears remove length.

• This creates short tapers.

• It is best on dry hair.

• Lift hair with comb and let comb act as guide.

• Do not hold hair between fingers.

• Let shears and comb move simultaneously up the head.

• Strive for continual motion.

SHEARS-OVER-COMB STEPS• Stand directly in front of

section.• Use proper comb placement.• Move comb up the head.• Angle comb to blend with

longer hair.• Follow shears-over comb tips:

– Work with small areas.– Start at hairline and work

up.– Cross-check your work.– Use barber comb for close

areas.

TEXTURIZING• The process of removing excess bulk without shortening

the length• To cut for effect within the hair length, causing wispy or

spiky effects• Can be used to add volume, remove volume, make hair

“move,” and blend one area into another• Used to compensate for different densities that exist

within the same head of hair• Can be done with cutting shears, thinning shears, or

razor

POINT CUTTING• This is a technique

performed on the ends of the hair using the tips or points of the shears.

• It can be done on wet or dry hair.

• Hold hair one to two inches from ends.

• Point tips into ends with palm facing away from you.

NOTCHING• This is another version of

pointcutting.• It is more aggressive and

creates a chunkier effect than point cutting.

• Hold section about three inches from ends.

• Place tips about two inches from ends.

• Close shears moving quickly toward ends.

FREE-HAND NOTCHING• Also uses tips of shears

• Shears not slid

• Pieces snipped out randomly

• Generally used throughout interior of haircut

• Works well on curly hair

SLITHERING OR EFFILATING• This process thins the

hair to graduated lengths with shears.

• Hair strand is cut by a sliding movement of the shears, with blades partially opened.

• It reduces volume and creates movement.

SLICING• This removes bulk

and adds movement through the lengths of the hair.

• Shears are never closed completely.

• Use only blade near pivot.

CARVING• This creates a visual

separation in the hair.

• Works best on short hair.

• Place still blade into the hair and rest it on the scalp.

• Move shears through the hair; gently open and partially close shears as you move.

CARVING THE ENDS

• Add texture and separation to the perimeter of a haircut by holding the ends of a small strand between your thumb and index fingers, and carving a surface of that strand.

• Begin carving three inches from ends toward your fingers.

TEXURIZING WITH THINNING SHEARS

• Remove bulk or weight.

• On coarse hair, stay farther from scalp.

• Avoid cutting on top for blunt cuts.

• Technique can be done on thin and thick hair; it helps taper the perimeter.

TEXURIZING WITH THINNING SHEARS

• Thinning shears-over-comb is useful for blending weight lines.

• Any texturizing technique done with the shears can be done with thinning shears.

TEXTURIZING WITH A RAZOR• This removes weight; use

on damp hair.

• Can use free-hand slicing throughout the section or at the ends, and should do so on wet hair.

• The more vertical the movement, the less hair you remove.

• The more horizontal the movement, the more hair you remove.

RAZOR-OVER-COMB• Both comb and razor

used on hair surface

• Softens weight lines and causes the area to lie closer to the head

• Used mainly on shorter haircuts

CLIPPERS

• Electric devices that cut hair by using two moving blades held in place by a metal plate with teeth

• The blade action faster than the eye can see

• Mainly used for shorter haircuts

Clipper uses:• To remove hair

completely

• To taper hairlines from short lengths into longer lengths

• With length guards, to cut all hair to equal lengths

CLIPPERS• Available in different sizes and

shapes

• Used with or without attachments

• Edgers, also called trimmers—usually cordless and mainly used to clean necklines and around ears and hairline

• Clean after each use with a clipper brush

• Disinfect the detachable blade and heel after each use as well

TOOLS FOR CLIPPER CUTTING• Clippers

• Length guard attachments

• Haircutting shears, used mainly for removing length and detailing the haircut

• Thinning shears, also called blending or tapering shears; great for removing excess bulk and for blending one area with another

• Combs: wider-spaced teeth for combing and cutting; finer-spaced teeth for detailing and shears-over-comb technique

• Barbering comb for the nape, sides, and around ears; also allows you to cut hair very short and close to head

CLIPPER-OVER-COMB TECHNIQUE

• Be at eye level with the area you are cutting.

• Place comb, teeth first, into hairline, and turn comb so that teeth are angled slightly away from head.

• Always work against growth patterns for even cutting.

• Hold comb stationary.

• Stop to cut section; movements should be fluid and continuous.

CLIPPER CUTTING WITH ATTACHMENTS

• Using length guard is a quick and easy way to create short haircuts.

• Use the ¼-inch guide in nape and sides.

• Switch to 2-inch guide as you reach the parietal area; this produces more length in the parietal area and a square shape.

EDGERS AND TRIMMERS– When cutting around ears, use

both hands to hold the edger sideways.

– Use outer edge on the skin; arc the edger up and around the ear.

– When cutting hair at the neckline, clean up hair on the neck that grows below the design line.

– Edgers also help create more defined lines at the perimeter.

TIPS FOR CLIPPER CUTTING• Work against natural growth pattern.

• Work with small sections, no more than 3 inches wide.

• Angle of comb determines the cutting angle when using the clipper-over-comb technique.

TRIMMING FACIAL HAIR• Clippers and edgers can be

used to trim beards and mustaches.

• The technique is similar to shears/clippers-over-comb.

• Length guard attachments may be used.

• Facial hair is very coarse and may dull your haircutting shears.

• Ear hair may be trimmed with caution.

SUMMARY• You should now be aware that your tools as a

haircutter are every bit as important as the tools of a great chef or even a surgeon.

• Each tool has a specific purpose.

• Learning how to use these tools effectively and efficiently will enhance your creative skills in designing new looks for your clients.

SUMMARY• Haircutting is a skill requiring imagination and

many hours of practice.

• You must remember that once something is cut off, you cannot put it back.

• It is important that you begin slowly by working on mannequins to build your confidence.

• Practice holding the various cutting implements until you are comfortable.

SUMMARY• Begin observing people and pictures, and

try to visualize in your mind’s eye what type of elevation was used to create the style.

• Drills and timed repetitions will be essential to your skills development.

• Take pride in your work and shoot for perfection.

• Once your techniques and skills have achieved a high level of quality, you can begin to work on your speed.