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Hand Sewing Soft Fabrication Skills

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Page 1: Hand Sewing - Carnegie Mellon University€¦ · Stitches for Sampler: Running Stitch: The thread runs through the fabric without doubling on itself. Basting: stitches are about ¼”

Hand Sewing Soft Fabrication Skills

Page 2: Hand Sewing - Carnegie Mellon University€¦ · Stitches for Sampler: Running Stitch: The thread runs through the fabric without doubling on itself. Basting: stitches are about ¼”

● low tech ● fast prototyping

○ connecting pieces various materials ● fastening different materials

○ soft to hard ○ weird shapes

● details and embellishments○ final touches○ fragile delicate materials

● repair work

Page 3: Hand Sewing - Carnegie Mellon University€¦ · Stitches for Sampler: Running Stitch: The thread runs through the fabric without doubling on itself. Basting: stitches are about ¼”

A Brief History

● evidence from Paleolithic Age (~40,000 years ago): sewn hide, skin, fur, bark

● sewing needles: bone, wood → metal ● thread: catgut, sinew, veins, animal fiber/plant fiber →

chemical fibers (polyester, synthetic silk, viscose)

bone needles, Cave of Courbet in France, ~13,000 years old

Page 4: Hand Sewing - Carnegie Mellon University€¦ · Stitches for Sampler: Running Stitch: The thread runs through the fabric without doubling on itself. Basting: stitches are about ¼”

Oglala Lakota tipi, 1891

Kayak, Nunivak, Alaska, 1930

Page 5: Hand Sewing - Carnegie Mellon University€¦ · Stitches for Sampler: Running Stitch: The thread runs through the fabric without doubling on itself. Basting: stitches are about ¼”

Embroidery● decorating fabric/material with needle and thread or yarn

● originally used for reinforcing cloth

Horse cover with metal silver thread, Morocco18th - 19th century

Sashiko stitched fireman’s coat, Japan19th century

Page 6: Hand Sewing - Carnegie Mellon University€¦ · Stitches for Sampler: Running Stitch: The thread runs through the fabric without doubling on itself. Basting: stitches are about ¼”

Bayeux Tapestry, ~1077

● 230 feet by 20 inches● first British comic strip?

Page 7: Hand Sewing - Carnegie Mellon University€¦ · Stitches for Sampler: Running Stitch: The thread runs through the fabric without doubling on itself. Basting: stitches are about ¼”

Samplers: demonstration of skill or technique

Page 8: Hand Sewing - Carnegie Mellon University€¦ · Stitches for Sampler: Running Stitch: The thread runs through the fabric without doubling on itself. Basting: stitches are about ¼”
Page 9: Hand Sewing - Carnegie Mellon University€¦ · Stitches for Sampler: Running Stitch: The thread runs through the fabric without doubling on itself. Basting: stitches are about ¼”

Appliqué ● applying one material to another surface

● surface patterning technique

heraldic flags, Knights of Thistle

Asafo flag, 20th c., Ghana

Page 10: Hand Sewing - Carnegie Mellon University€¦ · Stitches for Sampler: Running Stitch: The thread runs through the fabric without doubling on itself. Basting: stitches are about ¼”

Examples of Hmong applique mountainous regions of Vietnam, Laos, Thailand and Southern China

Page 11: Hand Sewing - Carnegie Mellon University€¦ · Stitches for Sampler: Running Stitch: The thread runs through the fabric without doubling on itself. Basting: stitches are about ¼”

Reverse Appliqué

Mola, Kuna people, Panama/Colombia150 - 170 years old

sewn layers that are cut away and then stitched down

Page 12: Hand Sewing - Carnegie Mellon University€¦ · Stitches for Sampler: Running Stitch: The thread runs through the fabric without doubling on itself. Basting: stitches are about ¼”

BeadingAttaching beads to a surface by stringing them together using thread.

12th c., Egyptian Ethiopian beaded basket

Page 13: Hand Sewing - Carnegie Mellon University€¦ · Stitches for Sampler: Running Stitch: The thread runs through the fabric without doubling on itself. Basting: stitches are about ¼”

Teri Greeves

Styles change among tribes on East Coast, Great Lakes, Plateau and Southwest.

Page 14: Hand Sewing - Carnegie Mellon University€¦ · Stitches for Sampler: Running Stitch: The thread runs through the fabric without doubling on itself. Basting: stitches are about ¼”

Bookbinding

in process variation on Japanese stab binding

Page 15: Hand Sewing - Carnegie Mellon University€¦ · Stitches for Sampler: Running Stitch: The thread runs through the fabric without doubling on itself. Basting: stitches are about ¼”

Sewing with Conductive Materials

Page 16: Hand Sewing - Carnegie Mellon University€¦ · Stitches for Sampler: Running Stitch: The thread runs through the fabric without doubling on itself. Basting: stitches are about ¼”

Overview of Tools + Materials

sewing needles

thread

+ whatever material you are going to sew!

Page 17: Hand Sewing - Carnegie Mellon University€¦ · Stitches for Sampler: Running Stitch: The thread runs through the fabric without doubling on itself. Basting: stitches are about ¼”

Other Tools

embroidery hoop thimble

fancy little scissors

needle threader

Page 18: Hand Sewing - Carnegie Mellon University€¦ · Stitches for Sampler: Running Stitch: The thread runs through the fabric without doubling on itself. Basting: stitches are about ¼”

DEMO:

hand sewing sampler

Page 19: Hand Sewing - Carnegie Mellon University€¦ · Stitches for Sampler: Running Stitch: The thread runs through the fabric without doubling on itself. Basting: stitches are about ¼”

DEMO + Lab: Hand Sewing Sampler

● Running stitch (basting)

● Running stitch (tiny)

● Back stitch● Whip stitch● Applique

Page 20: Hand Sewing - Carnegie Mellon University€¦ · Stitches for Sampler: Running Stitch: The thread runs through the fabric without doubling on itself. Basting: stitches are about ¼”

Stitches for Sampler:

Running Stitch: The thread runs through the fabric without doubling on itself.

Basting: stitches are about ¼” apartTiny: stitches are about ⅛” apart

Back Stitch:The stitch is formed by doubling back on itself. The needle emerges ahead of the stitch just made, and goes back to where the previous stitch ended.

Whip Stitch: This stitch goes “over and over” the edge of the fabric. It is used to sew two pieces of fabric together.