handlooms and plain weave

7/30/2019 Handlooms and Plain Weave

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HANDLOOMS AND PLAIN WEAVE

Ankita Patel

Caroline Muani

Hema Apundoley

Ketan Dhillon

Rashida Tambuwala

Ramdev Bharti


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A handloomis a simple

machine

used forweaving in

which no

power isused.
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/File:Warsztat.svg


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1. Wood frame

2. Seat for weaver

3. Warp beam- let off

4. Warp threads

5. Back beam or platen

6. Rods used to make a shed

7. Heddle frame - heald frame - harness

8. Heddle - heald - the eye

9. Shuttle with weft yarn

10. Shed

11. Completed fabrica

12. Breast beam

13. Batten with reed comb

14. Batten adjustment

15. Lathe

16. Treadles

17. Cloth roll- take up


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In a wooden vertical-shaft looms the heddles were

fixed in place in the shaft. The warp threads pass

alternately through a heddle and through a space

between the heddles (the shed), so that raising the

shaft raises half the threads (those passing

through the heddles), and lowering the shaft

lowers the same threadsthe threads passing

through the spaces between the heddles remain in

place.


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ADVANTAGE

Its give employment a lot.

No use of energy or power.

One can make and use.

Part time work.

Hand looms could be set up anywhere,

anytime, with little specialized equipment

needed.

They could be used to weave very basic


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They could be modified to produce wide pieces of cloth

or narrow ones, depending on the length of the

supporting bar or branch. Linen, wool and cotton threads

could be woven on them.

It is comfortable.


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It not for commercial

use.Very old tradition.

It is expensive.

Time taker.


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Plain Weave


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Plain weave (also called tabby weave, linen weave or

taffeta weave) is the most basic of three fundamental

types of textile weaves (along with satin weave and

twill). It is strong and hard-wearing, used for fashion and

furnishing fabrics.

In plain weave, the warp and weft are aligned so they

form a simple criss-cross pattern. Each weft thread

crosses the warp threads by going over one, then under

the next, and so on. The next weft thread goes under the

warp threads that its neighbour went over, and vice


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Balanced plain weaves are fabrics in which the warp and

weft are made of threads of the same weight (size) and the

same number of ends per inch as picks per inch. A balanced

plain weave can be identified by its checkerboard-like

appearance. It is also known as one-up-one-down weave or

over and under pattern.

Basket weave is a variation of plain weave in which two or

more threads are bundled and then woven as one in the

warp or weft, or both.

Some examples of fabric with plain weave are chiffon,

organza, and taffeta.

ruc ure o a n eave


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ruc ure o a n eave

In plain weave, each weft thread (filling) passes

alternatively over and under each warp yarn in a

square pattern.

Alternative names

It is also known as tabby, homespun or taffeta

weave.

Manufacture

On the loom, the plain weave requires only two heald

shafts. Each weft yarn goes alternately under and

over the warp yarns across the width of the fabric.


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Appearance

It has a flat appearance. There are no distinct designs.

However these may be produced if yarns have

contrasting colours or thicknesses. The various color

and weave effects that can be produced will be dealt

with in another blog.

Properties

It is easily produced. This is the most made weave in

the world. It is relatively inexpensive.

V i i f Pl i


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Variations of Plain weave

1. Square plain weaves

In such weaves, warp and weft are present in equalamounts, or in other words, warp cover factor is equal to

the weft cover factor.

These are used as surgical dressings, dairy cloths,

muslin dress fabrics, parachute fabrics, handkerchief

fabrics, fabrics for shoes and tents, sheeting fabrics;canvas for transport covers and fabric for use as ribbons

in type writers or computers.


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2. Warp-faced plain weaves

In these fabrics, warp cover factor is greater than that of

weft cover factor. This is normally achieved by having

more ends than picks per cm. the warp crimp is also high

in these fabrics, while weft crimp is low. Thus very faint

lines across the width of the fabrics are produced.

A typical fabric in this group is poplin. A typical

construction for a polyester/ cotton poplin shirtings is

50x25; 16 tex x 16 tex; 14% x 93% giving a weight of

130g/m2 and a cover factor of 20.0+9.7 = 29.7.


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3. Weft-faced plain weaves

This is not a popular group of fabrics as it is

normally produced with more than ends per cm, the

rate of production in the loom will be greatly

reduced. The most popular fabric in this group is the

limbric, which is used for dress prints.

e appearance o a p a n a r c can e c ange n many


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e appearance o a p a n a r c can e c ange n many

ways.

1. The use of colour

In the warp direction, colour stripes are produced along the length

of the fabric. In the filling direction, colour stripes are produced

across the width of the fabric. When used in both warp and weft

directions, a check effect is produced.

2. Changing yarn court

Stripes and check effects can be produced by using different yarn

count in one or both directions.
http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_LYBCSrzlw7E/S0ng5teReRI/AAAAAAAAGAE/VkSh45ao5yc/s1600-h/2.jpghttp://3.bp.blogspot.com/_LYBCSrzlw7E/S0ng5teReRI/AAAAAAAAGAE/VkSh45ao5yc/s1600-h/2.jpghttp://3.bp.blogspot.com/_LYBCSrzlw7E/S0ng5teReRI/AAAAAAAAGAE/VkSh45ao5yc/s1600-h/2.jpg


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3. Changing the yarn twist

Using combinations of different twist levels and directions in the

warp or weft, different effects can be produced is the fabric due to

the changes in the orientations of the fibers as shown.

4. Different Finishing treatment

Treatments such as dyeing mercerizing with caustic soda or

coating can change the characteristics of plain fabric.
http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_LYBCSrzlw7E/S0nhSkQD-TI/AAAAAAAAGAM/WRHlOVXF_A4/s1600-h/3.jpg


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VOILE AND CREPE FABRICS

These are specialized types of plain weave fabrics.

These fabrics are produced using highly twisted two fold

yarns. with the doubling twist in the same direction as

that of single yarn.

For voile yarn the tex twist factor is generally between

5000 and 7000, while for crepe yarn, it is nearer to 9000.

Voiles are used in lightweight, semi-opaque fabrics for

dress saris and light filters.

Crepes are used dress, blouses and support bandages.


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Thank You !


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