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Says Dior Designer > By NADEANE WALKER ~~ '••:•.-'

PARIS <*) — Dior dcsigbcr Yves Saint-Laurent today » lowered the hemline by several inches — to.about 15 inches from the floor, . '••

^|nt:Jy|ur^MX_b€^L%o was J*P to five inches lower ifaan those of other Paris fashion nouses whose fall and winter collections have been shown so Tar. Their skirts have cleared the floor by as much as 20 inches.

The H o u s e of Dior's new "curie line curves both shoul­ders and skirls. The silhouette is ihort-waisted but not truly em­pire.

* • • A FIVE-INCH D R O P v i n

length caught every other major house with skirts hiked up to the knee.

The difference in the Dior midcalf length is enough to look revolutionary — especially as it is combined with an entirely new shape.

The Saintiaurent silhouette is" of perfectly rounded medium fullness caught in with unpressed folds or pleats by. a belt a couple of inches Selow the bustline.

It has little or nothing in common with the high-waisted, short-skirted empire line teen •vervwhere else this season.

It looks as u* young Saint-" Laurent, having tasted success with his first collection last spring, wants to show who is master of the mode.

If he succeeds in pulling skirts down, there can be no further question.

* * • APPLAUSE, which started

early in the showing, broke out time and again and swelled to 7-an uproar at the end of the ihow.

The "curve" l i n e appeared first in a suit. The jackets were scooped up in front with the skirts standing off the hips and curving gently in at the midcalf hemline.

Cape coare covered matching dresses in the same silhouette but by cocktail clothes time, tome skirts had dwindled down to slender tubes just a m p l e enough not to touch the body while others swelled out in puff balls.

* * * FOR THE EVENING, Saint-

Laurent really puts on the dog with bc-jewellcd velvctjjirdcage skirts fit to sweep the floor of a Venetian palace and bearing such proud names as Dogess, Emir and Sultana.

Necklines are so low-scooped that they cut Dior's star manne­quin out of the parade. Exotic Alia, watching from the audi­ence, said she was too thin to wear the new decolletage, which Is revealing indeed. As one spec- . tutor remarked: "If you wear that, you'd better not sneeze."

But if Saint-Laurent pulled the rug out from under the com­petition on hem lengths, he at least put the royal stamp of approval on black, already re­marked as the season's top color. Whole sections of the Dior show were as black as a funeral.

WHEN THE MOOD light­ened, it was with blazing red, intense rose, sapphire blues, gold flame and a range of Victorian pastels, like dove grey, silver beige andi>ronze and tage green.

There were so many formal! embroidered all over with.jew­els that they must *have kept, an \ army of seamstresses stitching for months.

The audienc eleven saw—for the first time—a Dior creation that was only half finished'. A pink satin formal coat and the back in canvas, with the em­broidery design outlined in pen­cil.

* * * SAINT-LAUREMT, who has

just been announced as the win­ner of this yearls Nciman-Marcus fashion award, called • one of his best "day dresses. "Dallas." It was in grey wool with the signature silhouette.

Heavy velvet woolens were used for coats that were really capes, curved in at the hem, and with little three-inch sleeves cut in at elbow-height. Some of these coats were three-quarter length, but most were mid-calf.

Saint-Laurent made a whole group of nearly ankle-length cocktail or short formal dresses. Like the long formals, most of them covered up the arms with sleeves, while baring the shoul­ders and bosom, a trick that makes the decolletage look even more revealing than it is.

• * . * •

SOME BELTS — a l w a y s above the waistline —» were at least six inches wide* A few

^ skirts got their curved-in hem­line from unpressed folds-at the bottom lending them more the look of bloomers than of harem skirts which are more fully gathered to a small hobble hem.

The designer emphasized his high waistline w i t h diamond clips or barrets worn centered under the bosom. Other models had big riding-crop loops or half-bows in the same position.

t * •

WITH SOME of the most dramatic evening numbers, man­nequins carried long-handled black velvet nose-and-eye masks, some.of them d r i p p i n g jet fringe. Several heavy gold lame coats were lined or bordered with' sable.

Feathered casque hats sported little visors, and topknot cock­ades dropped figure-swathing black Veiling to the hem. There-were full baby doll backs for formal wear, and some long, flat back panels on both day and evening models.

Personals

Try Scolloped Plums By GAWOR MADDOX FRESH FRUIT desserts en­

rich summer menus. Here are some you'll enjoy:

Patterns

m

PARIS PARTNERS

«^5ee the Trapeze silhouette in fashion's newest separates! Demi-fitted top has a wide-away col-

'lar, skirt bells out beautifully. Wear them together or pair with «ither separates.

: Printed Pattern 9il56: Misses' ySfee* 10, 12, 14, 16, 18. Sire \6

blouse takes 2 yards 35-inch; skirt takes 2VA yards,

fi Printed directions on each pat* fltfn part. Easier, accurate.

% Send FIFTY CENTS (coins) vf<yr this pattern—add 5.cents for each pattern forest-class rnail-tefc'Schd to Marian Martin, care

Wt %U&tk Falls Gazette, 142 i F a t t e f c e p t , 232 West 18th St., •-Ne^Vork M, N.Y. Print plainly tfAME, ADDRESS with SONE,

SCALLOPED FRESH PLUMS (Yield: 4-5 servings)

1. Wash about 2 pounds fresh plums, remove pits and measure ' 3 cups halve*. Set aside.

2. Combine 3 cups soft bread crumbs, H-cup" sugar, 1 tea­spoon grated lemon rind and 14 cup butter or margarine, melted.

3. Fill a buttered 1-quart cas­serole with alternate layers of plums and crumbs having plums on bottom and crumbs on top. Cover and hake in a preheated hot oven (400 degrees F.) 30 minutes or until plums arc ten­der.

4. Remove cover and bake 10 mifctrtea longer or until crumbs are brown. Serve as dessert.

FRESH PLUM AND GRAPE CUP

(Yield: 6 servings) 1. Combine \Vi cups sliced

fresh plums, M cup sugar, 2 tablespoons fresh lemon juice and a dash of salt. Chill.

2. Just before serving, f i l l sherbcrt glasses with alternate layers of sugared plums and seedless grapes, ming about 1V$ cups grapes.

3. Top each with * scoop of orange sherbcrt, if you are not counting calories.

There may be a1 few tweet cherries left in your market. If so, complete their season with

this luscious cherry pie. CHERRY ?T CREAM PIE

(Make* 1 9-lnch pic) Two and one-half cups pitted

and halved fresh sweet cherries, 1 can (No. 2) pineapple tid­

bits, drained; V* cup fcugar, 1 tablespoon flour, 1 CAip dairy sour crcun, 1 unbaked 9-inch pic shell. 1. Combine prepared cherrie*

and pineapple. Pour into un­baked pie shell. Top with mix­ture of sugar, flour and sour cream.

2. Bake 40-45 minute? at 425 degrees F.

* • •

Births

THE YOUNG MOTHER who brings her baby home from the hos­pital often becomes discouraged when she finds her figure stretched and her beauty dimmed. But the damage is neither serious nor permanent. Exercise, skin care, lots of rest and the right foods will bring back that lovely glow." This young mother uses elasticized beauty rope (left) to firm the bosom line. Since

New,Mother Should Try Trimming Routines

By ALICIA HART ARENT YOU PROUD? You're home-from the hos­

pital. You have a bundle of heavenly joy in a brand-new crib. And last, but important to every gal, you can see your feet again.

THAT'S YOUR FUELING on your first day home. But — comes the disillusionment when you blithely try on the clothes you haven't worn for so long. You can get into into them, but there's a strain at/the bosom, end your tummy stielc* out. Seems like A diligent beauty routine is in order.

Don't let depression dim your initial joy. Your (baby is healthy and beautiful, and the rest can be taken care of easily.

. larly effective when done with the hdp of an elasticized beauty rope.

• • •

LIE ON THE FLOOR with arms overhead and the rope looped" over your hands. Bring one knee up close to the chest and lift the other leg high and straight. Then, h o l d i n g it straight, return your leg to the floor. Reverse legs, and do the same exercise; You can^ start at five times, then gradually in­crease the exercise time each day.

her skin is dry, she applies (upper center, an emulsion that works 24 hours a day under make-up. The beauty rope appears again (lower center) in this exercise to get those stomach muscles back into shape. And after her bath, she smooths a body lotion (right) over body and hands to counteract all-over dryness.

Amy Vanderbilt's Etiquette

Who Shakes Hands First? IN MY VARIOUS WRITINGS I tend to neglect the

bachelor. It is hard to realize that bachelors, too, have problems.

I did a little survey on some prominent bachelor friends of mine and came up with their answers to the matter of a bachelor's entertaining.

"DEAR M I S S VAMDER

IF THE STRAIN of preg- ~.\ -* * * nancy has made your complex­ion dry, the daily use of a l'ubri- - . ._.. . . _.. eating cream will help. One farn^ V r W t O D U T D ous beauty house offers, an emul­sion that can be used all day under makeup, and at night, too. Because it can work 24 hours a day, it should speedily counter­act the dryness and bring back the soft bloom to your checks.

If you find you tire easily, sensible, nutritious food and a nap every afternoon will soon dispel the weariness. Don't skip that daily rest period, for the delightful new member of the family will create many addi­tional chores for mom.

• * *

FROM HER SALON in Kfijv York, Mmc. Helena Rubinstein offers this advise to new mothers:

Babies sleep a good part of the time, and you can recapture? your former figure right on the floor in the baby's room.

There are many exercises that will tone the stomach muscles, and they needn't be too strenu(j 'ous. Here's ,one that is partial-

Its Mortgage The Niagara F a l l s Ladies

Auxiliary to the Veterans of Foreign Wars, Post No. 54, will take part with the members of the post in ceremonies cele­brating the burning ( of the mortgage on the post home Saturday at 8 p.m.

Refreshments will be served by the auxiliary at 10 o'dock and dancing will start at 11 prrt. Mrs. Herbert Nickerson, auxiliary c h a i r m a n , has an­nounced t h a t members may bring guests.

The Ladies Auxiliary, with" Mrs. Charles Turner^ as chair­man will have a picnic Tuesday at 10 a.m. at Hyde Park. It will be a4'pot luck luncheon, with all members reminded to bring place settings.

MISS TRUDY BURNS

Guild Tea To Feature Pianist

Miss Trudy Burns will be guest pianist at the annual membership tea and g a r d e n party to be given by the Phil­harmonic Guild of N i a g a r a Falls. The event will be' Sun­day at 3 pjrj. at the home of Mr. and Mrs. Robert MacDon-ald Jr., River Rd., Lewiston.

Miss Burns was a student of Alfred DrRocco, Niagara Falls music teacher, and" was em­ployed as an instructor at his studio. -She appeared with the M i a g a r a Falls Philharmonic Orchestra at the pop concert in

. 1957 and is former organist at the Hyde Park United Pres­byterian Church.

Ann Landers Says:-

You Think It'sTough * -

BTLT: Is it proper for a man with naturally damp or sweaty hands to offer and accept hand­shakes? How should such an indrvidifaT properly react.to the variety of handshaking situation*'" with friends and unknows that present themselves during t b « course of a busy day.

—M.A., Memphis, Term."

SOMETIMES PEOPLE w h o are a little un- j s u r e socially j h a v e t h e i r f hands b r e a k s out in a sweaty when they a r e ] faced with such| s i t u ations so-> cially as shak-: ing hands. If this is the case, w i t h you, the] best thing is to AMY be sure t h a t you understand all of the aspects of s u c h introductions. You should know that:

(1.) It is in this country the lady who makes the first move to shake hands, b u t that in Europe it is the V t h e r way around. •

(2.) • Men, on shaking hands with each other, whether during the course of an introduction or merely in tform of greeting, rise —unless rising for one or the other is impossible. And then an excuse is made. A gentleman, of course, rises to acknowledge en introduction to a lady and, as I said, here in this country he waits until 6he extend* her hand if she is going to in ack­nowledgement of the introduc­tion. She may merely bow.

(3.) A gentleman upon enter­ing anybody's house does, how-' ever, go forward to shake hands with the hostess. He does not wait until she extends her hand for this purpose. He also shakes hands with the host. E v e n though he may be a younger man, he does not need to wait for his host to make the first move.

Now about the sweaty hands. You should realize that some people have damp hands a n d some people have very jdry ones. Some hands are cold and some are warm. The best thing is to forget completely about your hands and never to • make an apoJogWnor wipe them off before shakrag hands with any­one, as t<bis merely calls atten- fc tion to the possible sweatiness.

OjLcourse, if your hands are actually dirty — for example, someone comes upon you while you are doing your gardening or are Under the car — that's' an­other matter. And if you can't successfully wipe your haad clean before offering it in a handshake, apologize arid mere­ly bow.

* * *

Good Addition Having meat loaf? Team a

jar of whole small boiled onions with a can of tiny green peas for a good1 go-along.

Mrs. Edward Shales and ber SOB, Michael Shales, Escarpment Dr., Lewiston, are flying to Los Angeles, Cal., this weekend to join Mr. Shales who lias ac­cepted a position with Lockheed Aircraft Corp. . . .

After spending a fortnight in Los Angeles, the Shales will make their home in Santa Maria, Cal.

* *. • Mr. and Mrs. Charles Jasper,

Fourth St., Lewiston, with their d a u g h t e r , Mrs. William H. BlackwcU, First St., Lewiston, are attending exercises in Yensa-cola, Fta, during which Douglas C. Jasper, their son will receive his wings from the U.S. Naval Air Force. . ,

* * • *

Mrs. Alexander R. Imlay will arrive Saturday to visit her parents, Mr. *and Mrs. Ralph House, Rapids Blvd. Mr. and Mrs. Imlay have just^ returned from a two-month trip to Italy and Germany. Mrs. Imlay is en, route to their home, Sausalipto, Calif.

The Imlays' sons, Timothy and Michael Imlay, who spent two months with Mr. and Mrs. House, will return homo with Mrs. Imlay.

* • • Lee E.. Gooding, who has

been the guest of his daughter, Mrs. A r t h u r Scutt, and Mr. Scutt, River Rd., Youngstown, has left to visit another daugh­ter, Mrs. John Bilobrowka, St. JohnsviUe, N.Y.

* * * i

Falls Girls' -Betrothals Announced

Mr. and' Mrs. J o h n C D'Amuro, Bell St., announce th«

«engagement of their daughter, Mary Lou D'Amuro, to Patrick A. DiBartolomeo, son of Mrs, Maria DiBartolomeo, F o r e s t Ave.

Miss D'Amuro is a graduate of Niagara Falls High School and her fiance is a graduate of the University of Michigan, Col­lege of Architecture.

* * * Mr. and Mrs. Charles Spencer

Lambert, 22nd St., announce the engagement of their daugh­ter, Janice Elaine Lambert, to Airman 1st Class <• George A. Troster, son of Mrs. Margaret Troster, Wilkes-Barre, Pa.

_ Miss Lambert is a graduate of Niagara Falls High School and attended Kelley Business Institute. Her fiance is a gradu­ate of Coughlin High School, Wilkes-Barrc, and is stationed at Chanute Air Force Base, 111.

The wedding will take placs-on Sept. 6 at Pierce Avenue Presbyterian Church.

DEAR ANN: My boy friend and I have a problcnvWe want to get married but we aren't of legal age. We can't get our parent's consent-in fact they blew their tops when we mentioned it. If we-both got jobs we could get along O.K.

We're in love and we spend every possible minute together. So far we've been able to keep our emotions in check but to be honest with you, 1 don't know how much longer we can hold out. It's getting to be i tough battle for both of us.

Wc know of other couples who are in the same boat and they don't know the answer cither. Please give us some advice, Ann. It's awfully tough to be young and in love.—MOOD INDIGO

r*

Ont of Town Births

DALY — To Lt. and Mr*. C.'-W. Daly, aj Oot#nado Hospi­tal, Coronado, Cal., July 24, 1958, a daughter, Elaine Rogers.

* * * DeVITA — To Mr.' and Mrs.

Alphonse J. DeVita, 262 South Rd., Bedford, Mass., July 27, 1958, a son, James Arthur. ' Mr. DeVita is the son of Mr. and Mrs. James J. DeVita, 17th St. ' . : '

IF YOU THINK ITS TOUGH to be young and in love, let me tell you It's a lot tougher to be pregnant and unmarried.

There's * lot passing for love that is not­ing more than a chemical reaction to the moon, soft music, and fust being alone together. If you're wise you'll avoid temptation by staying well out of re-ach of these biological booby-trar*-

Double'and triple date. Have your evening's entertainment planned in advance. Don't just ride around and wind up parking. Avoid shady lanes and pitch-black rooms.

Impose a cutfew on yourselves even if your parents don't insist. Remember that prolonged necking can lead to serious trouble.

Read this carefully and pass it on to the others in your crowd who are having "the same problem." lt could spdl the difference between genuine happiness and some botched-up lives.

• • ' * • DEAR ANN: Five years ago my younger

brother (then 24) borrowed $500 to get married on. Ten months later they had a set of twins. In 1954 he had to buy a1 new car because the old.one.was falling apart and a car is essential in his work. That same year they had a third son.

In 1956 his wife had a baby girt (which made everyone happy after three boys) but she later had complications and had to go back to the hospital. The bill was $250 and my brother asked

\ * .

1 me for a loan. I let him have it even /fihough he still hadn't paid back the $500. ' V^i-.

Last week my brother's wife showed up at a party in a" fur jacket which her husband gave her "as a surprise for her birthday."

My wife is furious. She Says If my brother were any kind of a man he'd pay n>s debts FIRST. I feel sorry for my brother and don't feel that he should be criticized. My wife said to write to you.—VICTOR t

SORRY, VICTOR, I'm with your wife. Just because the sHork is practically a household pet at your brother's home is no reason for you to make excuses for him.

In my book your brother owes you $750. The-price of the fur jacket should have been ap­plied to his debt. People who owe^money and indxilge themselves in luxuries have no sense of responsibility.

* » . • . ' DEAR ANN: What do you think of a man

with tecnaged daughters who carries pictures in hi« wallet of half-dressed cabaret dancers? He doesn't know these cheap hussies. A fellow at work gave him the" pictures.

I've avked him 50 times to get rid of those trashy' pictures but he says they are always good for a laugh. Frankly, l don't see anything funny. Please straighten out this bald-headed goof. — TESS

r -,v TELL "THE BALD-HEADELVGOOF" that moSt men carry pictures of their families in their wallets. If someone should happen to find his w allet on the street they would think, of course, the half-clad cabaret dancers are his daughters. (That should do it!)

If alcohol is robbing yovi or someone you love of health and dignity, send for ANN LANDERS' new booklet, "Help For The Alcoholic", enclosing with your request 20 cents in coin- and a large, self-addressed, -stamped envelope.

(Ann Landers will be„ glad to help you with your problcmsr Send ihern to her in care of ThT-* Niagara Falls Gazette and enclose a stamped self-addfessed envelope.)

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