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WWD BEAUTY BIZ 1

SPECIAL!SPRING 2010 BEAUTY PREVIEW

FROM AMERICANA TO APOCALYPTIC, SIX STANDOUT RUNWAY TRENDS

IN THE KITCHENWITH KATE MOSS

READY, SET, CHARGE:THE DEPARTMENT STORE COUNTER REVOLUTION

HELLODOLLY!TRANSFORMING MODEL OF THE MOMENT KARLIE KLOSS

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beauty-full winners of the 2009 CEW Achiever Awards

Congatu�ions to a the

Esi Eggleston Bracey, Vice President of Global Cosmetics, P&G Beauty & Grooming

Terry Darland, President NA, Christian Dior Parfums LLC

Veronique Gabai-Pinsky, Global Brand President, Aramis & Designer Fragrances, BeautyBank and IdeaBank,

The Estée Lauder Companies Inc.

Nicky Kinnaird, President and Founder, Space NK

WWD BEAUTY BIZ 3

6 PEOPLE, PLACES & LIPSTICKSAssessing the Olympics’ effect on Brazil, Carol’s Daughter enters the Magic Kingdom, Dior’s vanity table vision and remembering the work of Irving Penn by those who knew him best.

10 WHAT’S IN STOREThis month’s key launches include items with moisturizing oils from nuts of all sorts, targeted treatment products to address skin’s specifi c (and ever-changing) needs and a slew of gilded face powders for the holidays.

14 WORLD WIDE WATCH: GERMANYOn the 20th anniversary of the fall of the Berlin Wall, Germany’s consumer base is united in its quest for value, leading to a thriving mass market beauty business and challenges for the prestige sector.

THIS MONTH: FROM ANDROGYNY TO CLASSIC AMERICANA, THE SPRING 2010 BEAUTY REPORT; MODEL KARLIE KLOSS’ CHAMELEONLIKE APPEAL, AND A RADICAL REDESIGN OF THE DEPARTMENT STORE EXPERIENCE.

17 SUPER SIXBeauty took center stage during the spring runway shows, where the looks (and inspiration) ranged from extreme femininity to an almost apocalyptic aggressiveness. Here, a roundup of the season’s key trends.

24 THE BIG BANGIn the face of a declining customer base and dropping sales, department store retailers are reinventing the beauty shopping experience, unveiling boldly designed new departments and a penetrating approach to customer service to match.

30 KARLIE IN COMMAND Model of the moment Karlie Kloss is the darling of top photographers and designers alike—she walked 54 shows this season. Here, the 17-year-old stunner opens up about her expeditious rise to the runway and why she’s just a simple girl at heart.

34 THE WAIF THAT ROAREDModel, muse, style icon. Kate Moss transcends fashion in the way few women have. On the eve of her latest fragrance launch, Moss talks about creativity, closets and the calming effects of jam.

WWDBEAUTYBIZ CONTENTSPH

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WWD IS A REGISTERED TRADEMARK OF ADVANCE MAGAZINE PUBLISHERS INC. COPYRIGHT ©2009

FAIRCHILD FASHION GROUP. ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. PRINTED IN THE U.S.A. VOLUME 198, NO. 102.

November 13, 2009. WWD (ISSN 0149–5380) is published daily (except Saturdays, Sundays and holidays,

with one additional issue in January, May, October and December, two additional issues in March, April, June,

August, September and November, and three additional issues in February) by Fairchild Fashion Group, which

is a division of Advance Magazine Publishers Inc. PRINCIPAL OFFICE: 750 Third Avenue, New York, NY 10017.

Shared Services provided by Condé Nast Publications: S. I. Newhouse, Jr., Chairman; Charles H. Townsend,

President/CEO; John W. Bellando, Executive Vice President/COO; Jill Bright, Executive Vice President/Human

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Canada Post: return undeliverable Canadian addresses to: P.O. Box 503, RPO West Beaver Cre, Rich-Hill,

ON L4B 4R6 POSTMASTER: SEND ADDRESS CHANGES TO WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY, P.O. Box 15008, North

Hollywood, CA 91615–5008. FOR SUBSCRIPTIONS, ADDRESS CHANGES, ADJUSTMENTS, OR BACK ISSUE

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24 1730

ON THE COVERKarlie Kloss photographed for WWD Beauty Biz by Anthony

Maule. Makeup by Hannah Murray at Julian Watson; hair

by Paul Hanlon at Julian Watson; manicure by Anatole Rainey at Premier Hair and

Makeup.; styled by Clare Richardson; produced by

Clever Productions. Dress by Marc Jacobs.

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4 WWD BEAUTY BIZ

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EDITOR’S LETTER

IT WAS A FANTASTIC SEASON

FOR BEAUTY, WITH HAIR AND

MAKEUP LOOKS THAT WERE

CONNECTED TO BOTH THE

CLOTHING AND SOME KEY

CULTURAL GOINGS-ON.

After four cities, fi ve weeks and more than 400 shows, one word sums up beauty from the spring 2010 collections: Wow. Horned creatures with glowing, iridescent skin stalked the runway at Alexander McQueen, while at Luella Bartley, Alice in Wonderland-on-acid–inspired doll-like creatures, their eyes painted with bright primary colors, their topknots crowned with shiny patent leather bows, cavorted on the catwalk. Gucci, which, season in, season out, usually sends a slew of sexy-haired, smoky-eyed models down the runway, opted instead for a utopian vision of healthy beauty, while a new crop of hot models made headlines with boyish haircuts and an androgynous aesthetic. In all, it was a fantastic—and very relevant—season for beauty, with hair and makeup looks that were connected to both the clothing and some key cultural goings-on. We’ve broken down the entire season into the most directional trends in “Super Six,” starting on page 17.

The indisputable star of the season was Karlie Kloss, a 17-year-old model from Missouri who has become the darling of photographers and designers alike. She opened, among others, Dior, Isaac Mizrahi and Marc by Marc Jacobs, and closed Thakoon, 3.1 Phillip Lim and Sonia Rykiel. John Galliano has already tapped her to be the face of Dior for spring. Makeup artist

Pat McGrath likens her to a chameleon, noting she “morphs beautifully to the specifi cations of each job she takes on.” For a very striking look at the young model, turn to “Karlie in Command” on page 30.

Speaking of morphing, some key American department stores have undergone signifi cant transformations in the last few months—and no wonder. According to Euromonitor International, overall U.S. department store sales are forecast to decline an estimated 14 percent in 2009 to $117.5 billion, from $136 billion in 2008, and to decrease 3 percent in 2010 with continued declines through 2014. To counter the trend, Bloomingdale’s redesigned its 59th Street fl agship beauty fl oor into a wonderland of technology, excitement and brands galore, while Saks Fifth Avenue continues to revamp its Fifth Avenue beauty department into an oasis that combines high tech with high touch. Macy’s, Lord & Taylor and Dillard’s, meanwhile, are all experimenting with new formats. Will it be enough to bring back consumers—particularly younger shoppers—who have migrated to other channels? Find out in “The Big Bang” on page 24. As Jean-Paul Agon, chief executive offi cer of L’Oréal, says in the story, the key is to enchant consumers. And if spring’s bold runway statements are anything to go by, there should be a lot of magic happening in the months to come. —JENNY B. FINE

LE T’S PUT ON A SHOW

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WWD BEAUTY BIZ 5WWD BEAUTY BIZ 5

A FAIRCHILD PUBLICATION

MASTHEAD

PETE BORN EXECUTIVE EDITOR, BEAUTY

JENNY B. FINE EDITOR

JENNIFER WEIL EUROPEAN EDITOR

ANDREA NAGEL MASS MARKET BEAUTY EDITOR

JULIE NAUGHTON SENIOR PRESTIGE MARKET

BEAUTY EDITOR

MOLLY PRIOR BEAUTY FINANCIAL EDITOR

MATTHEW W. EVANS BEAUTY NEWS EDITOR

BRID COSTELLO LONDON BEAUTY EDITOR

GILLIAN KOENIG BEAUTY FEATURES EDITOR

FAYE BROOKMAN CONTRIBUTING EDITOR

BELISA SILVA EDITORIAL ASSISTANT

LISA KELLY COPY EDITOR

ART

DANILO MATZ ART DIRECTOR

ANITA BETHEL PHOTO AND IMAGING DIRECTOR

CARRIE PROVENZANO PHOTO EDITOR

ROBERT COSTELLO ART INTERN

ILANA ENGEL ART INTERN

CONTRIBUTORS

SAMANTHA CONTI AND NINA JONES (LONDON),

STEPHANIE EPIRO (MILAN), MILES SOCHA (PARIS),

MARCY MEDINA AND RACHEL BROWN (LOS

ANGELES), MELISSA DRIER AND SUSAN STONE

(BERLIN), ELIZABETH THURMAN (ATLANTA), HOLLY

HABER (DALLAS), AMANDA KAISER AND KOJI

HIRANO (TOKYO)

PHOTOGRAPHERS

JOHN AQUINO, GEORGE CHINSEE, STEVE EICHNER,

KYLE ERICKSEN, THOMAS IANNACCONE, ROBERT MITRA

PATRICK MCCARTHY, CHAIRMAN AND EDITORIAL

DIRECTOR, FAIRCHILD FASHION GROUP

EDWARD NARDOZA, EDITOR IN CHIEF, WWD, ASSOCIATE

EDITORIAL DIRECTOR, FAIRCHILD FASHION GROUP

ADVERTISING

CHRISTINE GUILFOYLE PUBLISHER

ERICA BARTMAN ASSOCIATE PUBLISHER

PAULA FORTGANG ASSOCIATE PUBLISHER

ELIZABETH WEBBE LUNNY ASSOCIATE PUBLISHER

DEBRA GOLDBERG EXECUTIVE DIRECTOR, BEAUTY

RON TROXELL WEST COAST DIRECTOR

ODILE EDA-PIERRE ACCOUNT MANAGER, PARIS

MICHELE SUTTON EXECUTIVE BEAUTY ASSISTANT

KAREN CHIU BUSINESS MANAGER,

FAIRCHILD FASHION GROUP

JANET JANOFF GENERAL MANAGER, WWD

STEVE SOTTILE DIGITAL DIRECTOR

MARKETING/PROMOTION

DANIELLE MCMURRAY CREATIVE SERVICES DIRECTOR

KATIE MCKENNA BRAND DEVELOPMENT DIRECTOR

JAIME HOLLANDER SENIOR MARKETING MANAGER

BRIDGIT KEARNS MARKETING MANAGER

HILLARY TOWNSEND ONLINE MARKETING MANAGER

TING WANG EVENTS & PROMOTIONS MANAGER

BENJAMIN GELINAS DESIGN DIRECTOR

MARK RAMEL DESIGN MANAGER

DIANE HUNTLEY COPY DIRECTOR

STEPHANIE BROWN MARKETING COORDINATOR

PRODUCTION

GENA KELLY EXECUTIVE DIRECTOR,

MANUFACTURING AND DISTRIBUTION

CHRIS WENGIEL GROUP PRODUCTION DIRECTOR

KEVIN HURLEY PRODUCTION DIRECTOR

JILL BREINER ASSOCIATE PRODUCTION MANAGER

CIRCULATION

AP DUFFY CIRCULATION MARKETING DIRECTOR

RICHARD FRANZ CIRCULATION/SALES DIRECTOR

JOHN CROSS FULFILLMENT DIRECTOR

JAMES ROSSI MARKETING DIRECTOR

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6 WWD BEAUTY BIZ

People, Places & Lipsticks

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Brazil is quickly heating up the world stage as the recent winner of the 2014 World Cup and 2016 Olympic Games. As all eyes in the sports world turn toward the beauty-obsessed nation, cosmetics companies are likely to follow. Already the leading global player in Latin America—thanks in part to a culture that puts a premium on looking good—Brazil’s cosmetics and toiletries market ranks third in the world, according to Euromonitor International, trailing only the U.S. and Japan, with sales of about $29 billion in 2008, up 10.4 percent from 2007. And if previous Olympic Games are any indication, it’s only a matter of time before dominant international brands such as Avon, Procter & Gamble, Unilever and Colgate-Palmolive, which collectively control 32 percent of Brazil’s beauty market, begin to cash in on all of the attention.

“Sponsorship is going to be key,” says Euromonitor’s Brazil analyst, Marcel Motta. “We’re going to see Gillette and P&G trying to be at the center of this.” The 2008 Beijing Olympics witnessed a slew of Chinese-themed products and sponsorships, where industry sources estimated that beauty brands invested roughly $10 million in ad campaigns and up to $2.5 million in team sponsorship. L’Oréal, for instance, whose Lancôme label is the number-one prestige brand in Brazil, was the cosmetics sponsor of the Chinese badminton teams. Avon, the largest international beauty brand in Brazil with 8.6 percent of market share and 1.1

million sales reps, ran a campaign with three Chinese divers dubbed the “Dream Team of China” to tout its franchises. P&G execs say it’s still too soon to make marketing plans for Rio, but the company—already an offi cial sponsor of the U.S. Olympic team for the Vancouver and London games—has signed on U.S. Olympic speed skater Allison Baver as the face of P&G Beauty brands such as Cover Girl, Olay and Pantene during the 2010 winter games.

Beyond sponsorship opportunities, some industry experts say the upcoming Olympics in Rio could open up Brazil’s beauty market, which, because of extremely high import taxes and complicated distribution channels, is dominated by mass market products and direct sellers. “Hopefully, with Brazil going into this international arena, we’re going to see more of the slashing of taxes in the next few years so that there will be more opportunities for premium brands to sell at a competitive price,” says Motta. “It might be a good chance for the federal government to really open up the economy.”

With or without the Olympics, beauty companies have been targeting Brazil, and will continue to do so. “There is so much opportunity to tap into in these countries,” says Doneger Group creative director Jamie Ross. “With Brazil in line with the Olympics, it will put that much more of a push on it.”

That, and the premium Brazilian women put on beauty. “They’re always going to indulge themselves,” says Motto. “That’s part of the culture.”

LOOK FOR THE

OLYMPIC TORCH TO

SHINE ITS LIGHT ON

BRAZIL’S ALREADY-

BOOMING BEAUTY

BUSINESS.BY GILLIAN KOENIG

LE T THE GAMES BEGIN

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8 WWD BEAUTY BIZ

People, Places & Lipsticks

princess. As a longtime Disney devotee, as well as an astute businesswoman, Price relished working with the entertainment behemoth. Here, her top three takeaways from the experience.

— JENNY B. FINE

1. “WHEN YOU DEAL WITH A

COMPANY AS LARGE AND

COMPLEX AS DISNEY, THERE

ARE LAYERS AND LAYERS AND

PROTOCOLS AND PEOPLE. IT CAN

BE DAUNTING, BUT IT GIVES YOU A

GLIMPSE OF HOW TO DO IT RIGHT.”

2. “DISNEY IS THE ULTIMATE

PROTECTOR OF A BRAND AND

NAME, AND IT TRICKLES DOWN

THROUGHOUT THE ENTIRE

COMPANY. BRANDS ARE NOT

SUCCESSFUL LONG TERM IF THEY

DON’T DO THAT.”

3. “THE PEOPLE WHO WORK

AT DISNEY ALL HAVE AN

ENERGY—IT REALLY IS ABOUT

BELIEVING IN THAT MAGIC

AND HAVING THAT BIT OF

WHIMSY. YOU DON’T

SPEAK TO ANYONE WHO

SOUNDS SULLEN OR

NOT CHEERY. THE

EMPLOYEES ARE

REALLY REFLECTIVE

OF THE BRAND, WHICH

IS SO IMPRESSIVE,

THAT A COMPANY AS

BIG AS DISNEY CAN

MAINTAIN THAT.”

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As the founder and president of Carol’s Daughter, Lisa Price is no stranger to creating a magical brand story. So it seems only natural that she partnered with Disney to create a line of hair and bath products for girls based on the upcoming fi lm, The Princess and The Frog. Called A Magical Beauty Collection, the line features the likeness of Princess Tiana, Disney’s fi rst-ever black

ENTERING DISNEY’S WORLD

MIAMI HEAT

With low-fare airlines, endless security checks and countless lost-luggage kerfuffl es, travel is far from glamorous these days—unless your end destination happens to be a suite at London’s uberchic Claridge’s. The hotel has teamed up with Dior to offer vanity tables laden with fragrances and cosmetics for its guests. Of course, the lap of luxury wouldn’t be complete without marabou mule slippers, personalized dressing gowns and a cashmere eye mask, all of which are part of the treat, which costs about $479, in addition to Claridge’s suite rates. “We have identifi ed from our guests a desire to experience some nostalgic escapism and sense a return to bygone glamour,” says Philippe Leboeuf, Claridge’s general manager. For those who prefer to adopt a Greta Garbo attitude and want to be alone after primping, CDs and novels accompany the Thirties-style cocktails, such as swizzles, sours and juleps, which are also part of the package. —BRID COSTELLO

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MIAMI-BASED INDIE BOUTIQUE BROWNES & CO. HAS BUILT A THRIVING BUSINESS WITH ICONOCLASTIC BRANDS. SO WHEN PRESENTED WITH AN OPPORTUNITY TO OPEN A NEW STORE IN THE CITY’S TRENDY DESIGN DISTRICT, FOUNDERS NIKKI MALLON AND GARY FEINBERG SEIZED IT—RECESSION BE DAMNED. THE 1,200-SQUARE-FOOT SPACE HOUSES ABOUT 40 BRANDS, INCLUDING BARE ESCENTUALS, BUMBLE AND BUMBLE, DARPHIN AND DIPTYQUE, AND BUSINESS IS BOOMING. “WE’RE DOING GREAT,” SAYS MALLON. “I’M AMAZED.” AND OPTIMISTIC—MALLON AND FEINBERG HOPE TO USE THE NEW FORMAT AS A BLUEPRINT FOR EXPANSION IN THE GREATER MIAMI AREA. —J.B.F.

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Brownes’ new Design District location.

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LEGENDARY PHOTOGRAPHER IRVING PENN DIED ON OCTOBER 6 AT THE AGE

OF 92. HE LEFT A LEGACY OF ART BEHIND—FROM ICONIC VOGUE SHOTS

DATING FROM 1943 TO CELEBRATED, PRODUCT-AS-HERO AD IMAGES FOR

CLINIQUE THAT HELPED DEFINE THE BRAND. HERE, THOSE WHO KNEW HIM BEST

REMEMBER THE MASTER AT WORK. BY JULIE NAUGHTON

“No one called him Irving—everyone called him Mr. Penn. There was no talking or smoking, except for the conversation between his subject. Whenever someone came into the studio, he sat down and started talking to them. That conversation continued until the end of the shoot. It helped distract them.” —GEORGE CHINSEE, WWD STAFF

PHOTOGRAPHER AND FORMER ASSISTANT TO PENN

“You always felt a Zen-like calm at Penn’s modest studio. You respectfully came on time. You were offered tea. A few intelligent questions…a quick sketch of an idea…then you’d leave, mentally fl ipping the door sign to ‘Quiet. Genius at work.’” —JIM NEVINS,

SENIOR VICE PRESIDENT AND GLOBAL CREATIVE

DIRECTOR, CLINIQUE

“I can’t say with absolute certainty that Penn’s famous Twice-a-Day 3-Step ad has had the longest run in beauty. I can say that decades later it looks freshly minted. That timelessness is Irving Penn’s legacy to Clinique.” —LYNNE GREENE, GLOBAL BRAND

PRESIDENT, CLINIQUE, ORIGINS AND OJON

“Penn was simply a genius in every way. His ability to balance both commercial and artistic photography, and to keep both separate, was remarkable. We miss him at Clinique.”

—LEONARD A. LAUDER, CHAIRMAN EMERITUS,

THE ESTÉE LAUDER COS. INC.

“Irving Penn inspired Clinique’s ‘product-as-hero’ advertising position. He was an incredible talent who had the ability of telling a story without a face or a written word. His work helped defi ne Clinique’s image, and he gifted us with some of the most memorable images in beauty. With all his genius, he was a surprisingly humble and decent man.”

—DAN BRESTLE

“Irving Penn’s iconic ads for Clinique conjured emotion, wit and simplicity without ever showing a face. His straightforward approach using simple objects, along with an incredible understanding of light, revolutionized imagery associated with beauty. He will forever be a part of the Clinique DNA and his inspiration will continue to live on.” —WILLIAM P. LAUDER,

EXECUTIVE CHAIRMAN, THE ESTÉE LAUDER COS.

“Besides being a really talented photographer with an exceptionally vivid approach to his creative work, he also applied this creative eye to Clinique’s extraordinary product advertisements, which captured the reader like a piece of metal to a magnet. As an aside, on October 10, a few days after his passing, Leonard and I received his latest book with his gift card. Perhaps he sent it from heaven!”

—EVELYN H. LAUDER, SENIOR CORPORATE VICE

PRESIDENT, THE ESTÉE LAUDER COS.

PENN’S STATION

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BB0911.006-9.PPL.a;20.indd 9 10/30/09 5:05:18 PM

For You, It’s Just

Lunch.

the Beauty of Giving Luncheon & Auction

Benefiting

cancer and careers

December 15, 2009

Registration now Open.

www.cew.org

suppORt WORkInG

WOmen WIth cAnceR

For them, It’s hOpe.

10 WWD BEAUTY BIZ

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POWER-PACKED CREAMS AND SERUMS

SOLVE SKIN-SPECIFIC ISSUES WITH NATURAL

INGREDIENTS AND POTENT SCIENCE.

BY BELISA SILVAPHOTOGRAPHED BY JOHN AQUINO

COMINGOF AGE

What’s In Store

10 WWD BEAUTY BIZ

01 AVON ANEW REVERSALIST RENEWAL SERUMAvon’s patent-pending

Activinol Technology is

said to trigger natural repair

molecules and boost skin

structure, and is the key to

this serum’s tightening and

brightening powers. ($44; Avon representatives, avon.com)

02 BULGARI ELIXIR MERVEILLEUX Featuring ceramide

technology and healing

camelina oil, this antiaging

concentrate purports to

combat loss of lipids and

skin density. ($320; Bergdorf Goodman, Neiman Marcus)

03 3LAB PERFECT “C” SERUMArmed with a high

concentration of vitamin

C, apple stem cells and a

collagen-producing peptide,

this gel serum aims to fi rm

sagging skin and promote

cell health and elasticity. ($95; Barneys, Nordstrom)

04 SK-II SKIN SIGNATURE CREAMA blend of a yeast

ferment fi ltrate of sake

called Pitera, vitamin

B3 and olive extracts

sourced from Tuscany,

this lightweight cream

is designed to be used

morning and night for

a fi rmer, more even

complexion. ($195; SK-II counters)

05 LA ROCHE-POSAY

DERM AOXTo combat cellular

oxidation and the

breakdown of skin

support tissues, this

antioxidant-loaded serum

harnesses the power of

vitamins C and E. ($55; CVS, Duane Reade)

06 KIEHL’S

AÇAÍ DAMAGE-CORRECTING MOISTURIZERPart of a new range of

antioxidant-rich skin

care, this moisturizer is

formulated with reparative

açaí berry and soothing

aloe vera juice to help

heal skin and protect from

environmental aggressors.

($44; Bloomingdale’s, Kiehl’s)

07 LE MÉTIER DE

BEAUTÉ PEAU DE VIERGE ANTI-AGING COMPLEXEA supercharged tinted

moisturizer with retinol to

tackle wrinkles, fi ne lines

and hyperpigmentation.

Light-diffusing pigments

provide sheer coverage. ($125; Neiman Marcus)

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Our Life. Our Love. Captured In An Eternal Fragrance.Christian and Ira, husband and wife

12 WWD BEAUTY BIZ

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GOLDEN COMPACTS FILLED WITH SHIMMER

AND SPARKLE ADD WARMTH TO HOLIDAY

FACES.


GOLD DUST

What’s In Store

12 WWD BEAUTY BIZ

01 CLARINS PALAZZO D’ORO GOLD ATTRACTION FACE PALETTEThis glistening powder’s

lacy pattern and light-

refl ecting texture channels

the intricate architecture of

Venice’s palaces. ($57; Clarins counters and stores)

02 SHU UEMURA

STARDUST DUO COLOR HIGHLIGHTERThe fanciful packaging,

designed by Japanese

fashion designer Chisato

Tsumori, holds a two-tone

glistening highlighter in the

shape of a cute celestial

kitty. ($45; Shu Uemura counters)

03 CLÉ DE PEAU

BEAUTÉ PALETTE VINTAGEFour luminous neutral

shades, formulated with

pearl pigments, give this

vintage jewelry–inspired

powder highlighting and

contouring abilities. ($125; Barneys, Bergdorf Goodman, Neiman Marcus, Saks)

04 ESTÉE LAUDER

OPULENT SHIMMER POWDERThis handcrafted pressed

powder, presented in

a lattice tablet design,

features complementary

shades that can be

swirled together or

used separately for an

iridescent sweep of gold.

($32; Estée Lauder counters)

05 LANCÔME

SUN CHERUB SPARKLING PALETTE SHEER WARMING ILLUMINATING POWDERA heart-holding cherub sits

in the center of this limited

edition champagne- and

copper-hued powder that

adds glimmer to eyes and

cheeks. ($40; Lancôme boutiques and counters)

06 CHANEL

SHIMMERING TWEED HIGHLIGHTERA nod to the fashion

house’s iconic tweed

fabric, this limited edition

offering weaves together

gold, bronze and copper

to add luminosity to the

cheeks and décolleté. ($60; Chanel counters and stores)

07 GIORGIO ARMANI

CRYSTAL PALETTEInspired by Armani Privé

and Art Deco design, the

lacquered black compact,

bedecked in Swarovski

crystals, houses

shimmering highlighting

pearls and an illuminating

powder for allover glow.

($98; Bloomingdale’s, Saks)

BB0911.010-13.WIS.a;17.indd 12 11/2/09 3:29:44 PM

PROVING MORE THAN JUST TASTY TREATS,

MIXED NUTS NOURISH AND INSPIRE THE

SEASON’S OFFERINGS.


What’s In Store

NUT JOB

WWD BEAUTY BIZ 13

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POMEGRANATE CREAMY BODY WASHEssential oils from blood

orange, macadamia and

sandalwood purport

to give this exfoliating

cleanser superb

moisturizing properties.

The spicy, citrusy scent is

said to provide balance for

body and soul. ($18; Target, Whole Foods)

02 DIPTYQUE PARIS

LIMITED-EDITION HOLIDAY CANDLE IN MARRONS GRILLÉSThis festive candle blends

notes of juniper, birch and

vanilla with the aroma

of chestnuts roasting on

an open fi re. The fanciful

frosted glass jar is derived

from Polish wycinanki—

intricately designed

paper cutouts used as

holiday decor. ($68; Diptyque, diptyqueparis.com)

03 ORIGINS GINZING REFRESHING EYE CREAMA cooling cream packed

with awakening ginseng,

skin-calming caffeine and

dullness-fi ghting chestnut

extract to help diffuse

under-eye darkness and

reduce visible signs of

fatigue. ($29.50; Origins counters and stores)

04 OJON SWA+ INSTANT HOLD HAIRSPRAYPromising hold and healing,

this follicle-strengthening

hair spray features

andiroba seed oil extract

from Central America.

The formula also contains

macadamia oil and crambe

seed, a mustard family

relative, for shine. ($27; QVC)

05 RUSK SENSORIES WELLNESS HEAL SHAMPOOOil sourced from the nuts

of the Moroccan argan tree

is formulated with scalp-

repairing panthenol and

vitamin-rich fi g extract for

top-to-tip hair moisturizing.

($19.95; mass retailers)

06 LOVE + TOAST

MANDARIN TEA HAND CREMEPart of a new range of

fruity and fl oral body

products and fragrances

from TokyoMilk creator

Margot Elena, this citrus-

scented formula features

nourishing macadamia

and sunfl ower oils to keep

hands hydrated all winter

long. ($9; Urban Outfi tters, urbanoutfi tters.com)

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14 WWD BEAUTY BIZ

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This fall, Germany is celebrating the 20th an-niversary of the fall of the

Berlin Wall and the mood is cautiously upbeat. The country has weathered the economic crisis, bounced back from the strain of declining exports in the last year and currently has the highest level of employment since reuni-fi cation in 1990. Germany may still have its regional differences, but consumers seem united in their search for a harmonious blend of value and quality.

That includes the recently reelected leader, Chancellor

Angela Merkel, the most powerful woman in the world,

sumer mentality of careful buying forged by surviving several wars and various economic hardships. “Germans are extremely price conscious.”

“Some go even further. “The German consumer is Jekyll and Hyde—two people in one,” exclaims Martin Ruppmann, director of VKE, Germany’s association of cosmetics producers. “On the one side, consum-ers like to indulge themselves—they like to spend money on nice things. Twenty-fi ve percent of Germans have an affi nity for luxuries and are ready to indulge in them. On the other side, they scrimp and save in order to afford these luxuries.”

The geiz ist geil (saving is sexy) trend, which, in the oft-quoted quip, has shoppers wearing “Armani to Aldi,” has gripped Germany for several years. But since consumers are cautious, the market has stayed stable through the fi nancial crisis, rising 2 percent in 2008. Medingdörfer says, “The selective market has not moved an inch in the last 10 years. It’s the same size.”

That means mass market brands dominate, led by L’Oréal, with its L’Oréal Jade and L’Oréal Paris brands,

and Beiers-dorf, with

Nivea.

GERMANYaccording to Forbes magazine, and a woman for whom glamour ranks low on the agenda. She’s not the only one.

“For German consumers, ‘natural beauty’ is a widespread beauty ideal,” says Maximilian Conze, managing di-rector of Procter & Gamble beauty and grooming for Germany, Austria and Switzerland. “German women want to achieve both inner and outer beauty—that’s why they strive for radiance and not just for ‘superfi cial’ outer beauty.”

But inner beauty doesn’t really translate to cosmetics sales, leaving Germany a diffi cult market for selec-tive brands, and one of the smallest in the region, though it’s Europe’s biggest economy and the second most popu-lous country after Russia. Germany’s

cosmetics and toiletries retail sales totaled about $17.13 bil-lion in 2008. Of that, premium

cosmetics accounted for about $3.5 billion, ac-cording to Euromonitor International.

“It’s a lot in the psychology of the Ger-man consumer. That’s an assumption, but most

of us think like that,” says Gabriele Medingdörfer, managing director for Estée Lauder and Tom Ford Beauty in Germany, point-

ing to the con-

BY SUSAN STONE

World Wide Watch

CELEBRATING THE 20TH ANNIVERSARY OF THE FALL OF THE BERLIN WALL, GERMANS ARE UNITED IN THEIR DESIRE FOR VALUE AND QUALITY, LEADING TO A THRIVING MASS MARKET BEAUTY BUSINESS AND CHALLENGES IN THE PRESTIGE SECTOR.

GERMANY

Capital Berlin

Largest city Berlin

Offi cial language German

Area Total 357,022 square kilometers

Time zone Central European Time

Currency Euro (EUR)

Population 82,329,758

GDP (per capita) $35,400

Internet TLD .de

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BB0911.014(15).WWW.a;29.indd 14 11/2/09 2:45:02 PM

WWD BEAUTY BIZ 15

Procter & Gamble, Henkel and Uni-lever round out the top fi ve.

Still, the audience itself is on the decline in Germany. Emigration fi gures topped immigration fi gures last year; the birthrate stands at 1.3 children per German woman, or 8.3 per 1,000 inhabitants. The German Federal Of-fi ce for Statistics estimates there will be a population fall of nearly 10 million people in the year 2050, and twice as many 60-year-olds as newborns that year. According to the fi gures for 2008, there are more people 65 and older than 15 and younger in Germany.

Companies are embracing the mature market by rolling out specifi c products aimed at older skin, including Beiersdorf ’s top seller, Nivea Visage Expert Lift face cream (for 50-plus skin), and its pharmacy-distributed Eucerin DermoDensifyer range (for 55 and over), and Fribad’s San Soucis Time Excellence (50 plus) and Biodroga Systems Age Performance Formula for the over-60 set. According to the Nuremberg, Germany–based market research fi rm GfK, sales of an-tiaging products grew 57 percent from 2004 to 2009.

In hair care, Germany’s Dr. Wolff-Gruppe saw a sales increase last year, driven by the popularity of its anti–hair loss lines Alpecin for men and Plantur39 for women. The company is predicting growth for 2009.

But young label-loving Germans are also a force to be reckoned with—what they lack in numbers, they make up for with determination. A VKE online poll done in conjunction with Bauer Media KG shows that teen shoppers are brand savvy and brand loyal. Moreover, more than 50 percent of young people are spending more money on body, hair and facial care products than a year ago, and boys spend more than girls.

Those boys are contributing to the expanding men’s market, which currently outpaces overall demand for cosmetics and toiletries, with notable growth in skin and hair care, according to Euromonitor. Says P&G’s Conze: “Especially the male skin

s

,” .

8.

THE PROOF IS IN THE PRETTY

With a countrywide literacy rate of 99 percent and an innate love of books, opera

and music, German consumers demand knowledgeable service and the chance to

try before they buy. “Sampling is key,” says Estée Lauder’s Gabriele Medingdörfer,

adding that German women have read about products in magazines and online

before they hit the stores.

Tim Fischl of Departmentstore Quartier 206 adds, “We have very enlightened

customers who are very well informed and well traveled. They know what’s

available in Asia, the States, Paris, London.”

But too much information can be a bad thing, say some. Several in the industry

point to what they see as the dangerous power of the infl uential magazine Oko Test,

which ranks products for their effects on health and the environment rather than

wrinkles and gray hair, therefore, they say, favoring natural brands over their more

high-tech counterparts. What’s increasingly popular, though, is a happy medium,

says P&G’s Maximilian Conze. “Consumers are looking for natural-based products

which at the same time offer scientifi c proven effi cacy.” —S.S.

care market continues strong growth pace in 2009, up 12.2 percent versus a year ago.” He notes that midprice products from Gillette in the pre- and aftershave areas are successfully target-ing men who were previously not using skin care products at all. GfK reports that sales of men’s products soared 181 percent from 2004 to 2009.

In fragrance, Lancaster Group’s general manager for Germany, Nicole Nitschke, says the selective men’s market has been on the upswing for the past two years, powered by a lineup of both classics and new launches.

Classics are also key in the women’s fragrance market. “They play an impor-tant roll, with many consumers reach-ing for perfumes they are familiar with, that consistently give them a good feeling,” says Nitschke. “For example, 20 years after it launched, Jil Sander Sun continues to be at the top-selling position in perfume sales.”

Chanel No.5 also hovers in the top 10, but new releases are clawing their way up, responsible for 20 percent of sales in the last two years. Store exclu-sives such as Ed Hardy at Douglas are making a dent, and smaller-size bot-tles, such as the 20 ml., are attracting bargain shoppers and younger buyers at drugstores and supermarkets, where fragrance sales are up by 2 percent, notes Sabine Hefter of Information Resources Inc. Last year, premium fragrances beat out mass, as German consumers gave up the love affair with the celebrity fragrances that had been driving growth in the mass market sector, according to Euromonitor.

The German fragrance retailing landscape has close to 2,800 doors— many quite small, family-owned perfumeries. Among them, Hagen, Germany–based Douglas is a key player, with 452 doors. The gray market, which sends brands to drugstores

and discounters, is a consistent source of complaint in the industry. Information Resources reports that one drug chain alone, Schlecker, rang up about $4.4 million in prestige scent sales in the fi rst fi ve months of 2009, representing double-digit monthly growth.

Wherever they shop, many in Germany are going green. Germans are generally health and environmen-tally conscious, consuming organic food, carrying reusable shopping bags and taking natural remedies, though ironically, smoking is rampant. An estimated 12 million consumers are willing to pay extra for environ-mentally friendly goods, reports

Euromonitor. Some of the best-known brands in the sector come from

Germany, including Weleda, Lavera and Dr. Hauschka, which generates 55 percent of its sales domestically.

“Natural cosmetics are gaining in importance. Increasing numbers of customers in our store are explicitly asking for natural cosmetics,” says Renate Engelmann, head of the beauty department at Berlin’s grand Kaufhaus des Westens, or KaDeWe. GfK reports natural cosmetics grew 112 percent.

That’s true, too, at Berlin’s trendy Departmentstore Quartier 206. Tim Fischl, manager of the cosmetics de-partment, points to IQV, an eco-luxury brand with sleek gold packaging and prices of $250, as proof that natural doesn’t have to smell or look bad. “These days, organic is fun, too. That wasn’t the case fi ve years ago,” he says.

Traditional brands are wooing green consumers by limiting packag-ing or offering recycling or trade-ins of empty bottles and tubes. “In Germany, we need refi lls,” says Lauder’s Med-ingdörfer. “Refi lls are cheaper than the

original product, but also she doesn’t want to throw

away more than she needs to.”

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HEALTH AND BEAUTY SALES BY RETAIL CHANNEL

PHARMACIES AND DRUGSTORES: 38.9%

GROCERS: 28.2%

HEALTH AND BEAUTY SPECIALISTS: 16.8%

DEPARTMENT AND VARIETY STORES: 14.2%

DIRECT SELLING: 2.6%

*SOURCE: EUROMONITOR INTERNATIONAL*NOT ALL CATEGORIES REPRESENTED—ADDS UP TO 100.7%

BB0911.014(15).WWW.a;29.indd 15 11/2/09 2:45:24 PM

For more information on advertising, contact Christine Guilfoyle, publisher, at 212-630-4737, or your WWD salesperson.

YEAR IN FASHIONSECTION II

IN PRINT & ONLINE: December 14 SPACE CLOSE: November 30

most irresistible

ring out

wrap-up

fashion’sinthe year

WWD BEAUTY BIZ 17

BEAUTY TOOK CENTER STAGE DURING THE SPRING RUNWAY SHOWS, WITH HAIR AND MAKEUP LOOKS AS COMPELLING AS THE CLOTHES THEMSELVES.SUPER

SIX BY JENNIFER HITZGES

If the runways are anything to go by, spring 2010 is going to be a major season for beauty. Once relegated to supporting players, hair and makeup were key components of the shows this season, enhancing the vision of designers and connecting to the inspiration and cultural forces at play in each collection. Six distinct feelings emerged, ranging from an exuberantly ladylike extreme femininity rooted in the more conventional side of spring to an almost apocalyptic view of fashion and beauty—futuristic, foreboding and, above all, fantastically theatrical. Here, a primer to the six top trends that will shape both the business and our views of beauty as we head into the new year.

Photographed by Delphine Achard, Pasha Antonov, John Aquino, Talaya Centeno, George Chinsee, Steve Eichner, Stéphane Feugère, Giovanni Giannoni, Thomas Iannaccone, Davide Maestri, Dominique Maître, Mauricio Miranda and Robert Mitra

2010 SPRING BEAUTY REPORT

BB0911.017-23.RunwayTRENDS.b;35.indd 17 11/4/09 1:47:26 PM

18 WWD BEAUTY BIZ

DOLLYWOOD: Ultrafeminine beauty isn’t child’s play. Inspired, no doubt, by the upcom-ing release of Tim Burton’s Alice in Wonderland, as well as the smash success of animated fi lms like Pixar’s Cloudy With a Chance of Meatballs, a dolly aesthetic pervaded many runways, be it the saturated pastel makeup colors at Luella and Louis Vuitton or the naïve topknots at Marc Jacobs and Issa. Drawn-on, exaggerated lashes at Ruffi an and Miu Miu made the parade of models resemble a row of china dolls that no girl could resist. The looks ranged from Barbie-still-in-her-box (see Viktor & Rolf’s gravity-defying tulle) to all-out Alice adora-tion (to wit, Christopher Kane’s gingham, Peter Pan collars at Moschino and big bows across the board).

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BOY ZONE: Girls are borrowing more than just their boyfriends’ jeans. A decidedly masculine sensibility pervaded runways this spring. Some of the season’s most in-demand models were Iris Strubegger, Tao Okamoto and Ranya Mordanova, all of whom sported chic cropped cuts and looked sexy and uncomplicated without mounds of hair and makeup. Fashionwise, the looks ranged from bespoke-inspired three-piece suits, as at Ralph Lauren, Junya Watanabe and Dolce & Gabbana, to dinner jackets at Givenchy to his-and-hers at Chanel. The gender bending seems only fair. After all, a new crop of Hollywood leading men, such as Ed Westwick from Gossip Girl and Robert Pattinson from Twilight, aren’t above a bit of blush or sheen of gloss if it means portraying their characters more convincingly—and they’re winning legions of fans along the way.

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21 WWD BEAUTY BIZ

RED HOOK: Next May, the Metropolitan Museum’s Costume Institute will unveil its latest exhibit, a celebration of American women. So it’s only fi tting that spring was awash in red. Gowns in shades of crimson inspired by a farmer’s market—tomatoes, strawber-ries, raspberries, cherries, roses—ruled many runways, often combined in varying hues for a fresh take. Beauty-wise, the variations on the red lip were endless—a glamorous Forties pout at Dior, glossy disco sheen at Ungaro (with matching nails, natch), vibrantly acidic at Prada and sultry and Sicilian-inspired at Dolce & Gabbana in a shade that makeup artist Pat McGrath created by mixing three of the house’s signature lip-sticks. At Rochas, meanwhile, McGrath

painted only the top lip red, adding gloss to the bottom for a beautiful and subtle take on a classic look.


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WWD BEAUTY BIZ 22

SUN COUNTRY: Lazy summer days. Picnics in Provence. Unending fields of flow-ers. If it all sounds dreamy, on runways such as Alberta Ferretti, Chanel, Fendi and Etro, it was, as designers worked a sun-kissed palette and faded, frayed fabrics with hair and makeup that melded an angelic innocence with country-girl heartiness. Shades of dried rose, lavender, marigold and sunflower were crushed into pigments for clothes and makeup. The keys to this soft-wash look were bleached eyebrows and wispy white blonde hair, which made the models look as if they’d spent the entire sum-mer outdoors. Highlighted with floral laurels at some or a flash of gold in skin or hair, the effect was sensuous, languid and redolent of the ease of the country—a perfect antidote to the apocalyptic drive of the season.

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HEALTH TRIP: With health care reform headlining the news and a U.S. president whose favorite relaxation retreat is the basketball court, physical fi tness has hit prime time. (Who among us doesn’t obsess over Michelle Obama’s arms?) De-signers jumped on the treadmill, with looks ranging from healthy athleticism to medical chic. That trans-lated into Alexander Wang’s sexy football gals (no cheerleaders, they) to Bottega Veneta’s chic take on karate cool. At Gucci, mesh insets and bungee cord lacing mixed sport with sleek glamour, while at Ashish, witty sweatshirts were covered in a blanket of sequins. Meanwhile, stark white lab coats from Calvin Klein and Givenchy or Yves Saint Laurent’s dress in scrubs blue would be the perfect uniforms for anyone working in our newly reformed system. Beautywise, the look was, well, healthy—natural, clean and sporty. Soft hair was contained in loose braids or pushed back with elastic headbands, while Wang’s statement brows provided a fresh twist on the traditional athletic under-eye glare stick.

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WWD BEAUTY BIZ 24

SISTERS GRIMM: Packs of ferocious urban tribes will be stalking the streets come spring, taking a cue from a long list of designers whose aesthetics veered to-ward the aggressive and apocalyptic, in both fashion and beauty. Chalk it up to Tim Burton mania—the famed director is the subject of a Museum of Modern Art retrospective opening this month—and the release of Spike Jonze’s Where the Wild Things Are. The Gothic fairy-tale feeling was evident in colors and textures, be it the brooding blues, grays and greens seen at Gareth Pugh, the wildly patterned frocks and matte textured hair at Proenza Schouler, the sheer animal-istic beauty at Alexander McQueen or the aggressive body art that adorned models at Rodarte and Jean Paul Gaultier.

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BB0911.024-29.RetailReinvented.a;19.indd 24 11/2/09 6:15:31 PM

WWD BEAUTY BIZ 25

AFTER BEING BATTERED BY EMERGING RETAIL FORMATS, AMERICAN DEPARTMENT STORES ARE FIGHTING BACK WITH EXPLOSIVE NEW STRATEGIES.

THE BIGBANG

Department stores have come out punching.After taking their licks from a number of corners, be it

competitive new formats that encroached on their original turf or a bruising price war with mass merchandisers, department store retailers are taking action.

And despite declining sales that have many retailers against the ropes, the bout is far from over.

Many top players have begun aggressively counterpunching, even as they stand in the deep shadow of the Great Recession. Two of New York’s most storied emporiums—Bloomingdale’s and Saks Fifth Avenue—have unveiled radical redesigns of their fl agships, while others, such as Macy’s, Dillard’s and Lord & Taylor, are experimenting with new formats.

In October, Bloomingdale’s opened arguably the most advanced high-tech selling fl oor in America. At the unveiling, chairman and chief executive offi cer Michael Gould stood amid a beauty department festooned with slick, pulsing videos and state-of-the-art counters, but what was on his mind was people: those who sell product and those who buy it.

“We believe very strongly that the key to this fl oor, as fun

BY MOLLY PRIOR AND PETE BORNPHOTOGRAPHED BY MITCHELL FEINBERG


26 WWD BEAUTY BIZ

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as the ticker tape is, as fun as the 3-D [screen] is, as fun as any of those things are, the thing that will determine our ultimate success is the ability to clientele the customer—know who that customer is and how to touch that customer,” he says.

As impressed as a customer may be with the news ticker atop Clinique’s counter, it’s her interaction with the sales associate that she’ll tell a friend about, Gould believes. “It’s all about the people,” he emphasizes. “The answer to our business is not fi guring out how to have more [gifts-with-purchase]. The answer to our business isn’t going on sale. The answer to our business is simply, how do we build a relationship with a customer and not rely on someone maybe making a transaction?”

In other words, following years of a creeping me-too–ness that resulted from an era of mergers and consolidations, retailers are returning to the customer-fi rst mantra that allowed department stores to gain domination decades ago.

Gould was referring to research results from the big-three beauty brands that shows the average shopper visits a department store only two to three times a year. Gould asserts that the customer is using cosmetics regularly, but shopping elsewhere. “They’re going somewhere else because there’s no loyalty—no one has touched them,” he says. His driving point is to build a business one relationship at a time.

Take a recent Lancôme gwp promotion. “The fi rst day in New York, [we] probably had 2,000 transactions,” says Gould. “I said to [the Lancôme staff ] when I was on the fl oor the next morning congratulating them, ‘Were 2,000 business cards given out the day before? Do we have 2,000 thank-you notes going out? Do we have a process where people are going to get a phone call or an e-mail saying, ‘You know, Miss Keaning, I hope you really liked that [item] you bought, but what do you think of that moisturizer? You must be out of it by now. Could I send you a regular-sized bottle?’

“Now it ’s gone from a transaction to a relationship,” he declares. “The future is how you move a business from transaction to relationship. And it’s only going to happen this way. It’s not going to happen any other way.”

Nailing the relationship rather than the transaction plays to the historical strength of department stores—namely, their armies of sales associates—as opposed to many of their modern-day rivals, who depend largely on models of assisted self-service or no service at all. “Beauty is the most individual category we sell,” says Terry Lundgren, chairman, president and ceo of Macy’s. “The potential for cosmetics may be even greater than the rest of the store. That work is still in front of us. The challenge that the manufacturers and we have together is to make clear to the consumer about how important it is to take advantage of the beauty advisers in our stores.”

Jean-Paul Agon, ceo of L’Oréal, sees the problem in stark terms. “Go back 30 years. The department store was a place of enchantment for consumers,” he says. The solution is simple: “Re-enchantment.” On this score, Agon gives the new Bloomingdale’s beauty fl oor high marks. “This is probably the most beautiful store in America,” he says.

It should be, considering the cost. According to sources, the renovation cost $45 million to $55 million including vendor contributions, and vendors are hoping for 10 to 20 percent sales gains as a result. That would be welcome news to a channel where declines have become the exception rather than the rule. According to Euromonitor International, overall U.S. department store sales are forecast to decline an estimated 14 percent in 2009 to $117.5 billion, from $136 billion in 2008, and to decrease 3 percent in 2010 with continued declines through 2014.

Also trying to staunch the fl ow is Saks Fifth Avenue, where, across town, construction—albeit to a lesser scale on the beauty fl oor—is under way. Thus far, La Mer, Bobbi Brown, MAC, SK-II, La Prairie, Laura Mercier and RéVive have unveiled shiny new counters. In all, the Manhattan fl agship has renovated 50 percent of the 65,000-square-foot main-fl oor beauty department, and a fi nal phase of heavy lifting is planned for spring. Moreover, large-scale renovations are happening throughout the store and the chain, says Stephen I. Sadove, Saks’ chairman and ceo.

“A lot of what we are doing, in terms of renovations, allows the consumer to interact more with associates and the products,” he says. “We have lots of technology built into the service environment—skin-analysis technology at SK-II or adjustable lighting at Chanel. We believe the overall experience, choice and exclusivity of the brands we have, and the ability to get the level of service as well as personalization, is unique.…We can compete with anybody in the vertical space.”

Saks has spent the last two years training its staff across the store on a point-of-sale computer system, which puts sales associates in touch with their customers, as a way of spurring sales through appointment selling. But the retailer is combining high tech and high touch. To that end, rather than having a makeup artist and a sales associate at the beauty counter, for example, the two positions now have been consolidated. “Everybody is a sales associate and makeup artist, which is allowing us to have much more interaction with the customer,” says Sadove. “Now, all of the artists understand how to use the technology to better serve the customer.”

Saks also has concentrated on training to improve the selling effort. Ron Frasch, Saks’ president and chief merchandising offi cer, says, “We could spend more capital fi xing up stores. We could add this brand or add that brand. But for our company, the differentiator is—whether it’s in the cosmetics world or the shoe world—it doesn’t matter, it’s all about service.”

Whether the top-to-bottom overhauls silence critics remains to be seen. The most vocal observers assert that department stores have changed little over the last decades, growing increasingly indistinguishable from each other in a time when the competition—namely, a new crop of retail concepts including Sephora, Ulta, Space NK and Bluemercury—have enticed shoppers with a mixed approach of assisted sell and an assortment of hard-to-fi nd indie brands.

Also at play are the lingering effects of the recession and the undisputable fact that how

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WWD BEAUTY BIZ 27

consumers with its My Macy’s initiative, designed to bring more local relevance to its store offerings.

“Understanding that consumers are different in different markets, and even within a market and a store—the men’s customer might be different than the women’s—and knowing those customers and their specifi c needs will be more critical to establishing yourself as different,” says Lundgren.

To that end, Macy’s has fortifi ed the fi eld with 1,600 additional people in 69 cities across the country, or districts. “For each district, they supervise between 10 to 12 stores,” explains Lundgren. “This group of 17 to 20 individuals has very specifi c skills as former buyers or planning executives, and they are infl uencing the product for the specifi c stores in their districts’ cities and markets.”

He cites a team in Chicago, which identifi ed a need for a broader selection of larger-size women’s shoes and has since created an entire section of size 11 shoes. “Sales have gone through the roof,” says Lundgren. “There is no technology that tells you in the last month we had 100 requests for size 11 shoes in women’s. Only a sales associate behind the counter tracking this data and providing this information to the district merchant

can capture that.”Retailers are making other bold

moves, as well. Many have struck exclusive deals with desirable brands to entice consumers, and implemented computerized clienteling software to enhance the relationship. Many of those efforts came to an abrupt halt last fall, though, when spooked consumers stopped shopping, either out of guilt or necessity. Heavy-handed promotions—including on the beauty fl oor—began shortly after. The long-held concern about training consumers to wait for the sale became a moot point.

“One of the fundamental issues in U.S. department stores is the

and why people shop has changed considerably. In WSL Strategic Retail’s most recent research report, Reboot: How America Shops, 54 percent of women surveyed said, “I don’t shop at certain places because I’ll be tempted to overspend.” The shoppers listed malls fi rst, followed by department stores, as the outlets they try to avoid.

“These shoppers are saying, ‘Sorry, I have to pay my rent, and I cannot afford to walk in anymore.’ That’s a big issue,” says Wendy Liebmann, ceo and co-founder of WSL Strategic Retail.

She anticipates department stores will have to close more doors, and heap luxury into the ones that remain. “We’re going to see a shrinking of the business. It’s going to be a more focused business with a more special experience geared toward the high-end consumer, who expects a lot more than she’s offered at the moment.”

Acknowledging that contracting the business runs counter to department stores’ all-out growth mission over the last decade, Liebmann says: “It’s going to be incredibly painful—much like what is going on in the mass market, where there is [stockkeeping-unit] rationalization taking place and brands cut out of the mix. But ‘less is more’ is going to be the road to survival.”

Marshal Cohen, chief industry analyst of The NPD Group, agrees, saying, “When department stores were the dominant player, they were not as big as they are today. They weren’t under the same pressure to sell as much merchandise as they are today. But future success is not going to be about volume growth, it’s about profi tability. The future is not about being bigger than you were, but better than you are.”

Macy’s, the nation’s largest department store chain with 800 doors, aims to do just that and get closer to

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“THE POTENTIAL FOR COSMETICS MAY BE EVEN GREATER THAN THE REST OF THE STORE,” SAYS MACY’S CEO TERRY LUNDGREN. “THAT WORK IS STILL IN FRONT OF US.”

Bold brand statements dominate Bloomingdale’s revamped beauty fl oor.

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THE SELFRIDGES WAY BY BRID COSTELLO

addiction to sales,” says Paco Underhill, founder, ceo and president of the consulting fi rm Envirosell. “It’s like heroin: The more you do it, the more ways you do it,” he continues, adding that aggressive promotions quickly erode margin. “If you don’t have the margin, you don’t have any money for innovation.”

The tactic seems to have encouraged consumers’ newfound frugality. “Everyone is celebrating how little they spend on something rather than how

much,” says Underhill. “But, if price on a product remains consistent—like for an iPod—everyone accepts it.”

But as department stores reevaluate their past missteps, there is opportunity, Underhill believes, including “shedding underperforming stores, downsizing, doing a better job of focusing on who the consumer actually is and being responsible to local markets.”

Exace r ba t ing ma t t e r s , department stores have dramatically cut spending in recent years. “This group has been underspending on capital expenditures,” says Morgan Stanley analyst Michelle Clark, noting Macy’s capex spending dropped to $450 million in 2009, from $1.1 billion in 2007. A Macy’s spokesman noted that Macy’s higher spending in 2007 was due to the remodeling of its recently acquired May Department Stores Co. units. Department stores also have reined in sales, general and administrative

spending, the bulk of which goes to staffi ng.As a result, fi nding a sales associate in a store

can be diffi cult, says the analyst. Morgan Stanley’s research found that, on average, customers had to visit fi ve different registers before they were able to make a purchase. “We’re at a point where they need to start reinvesting,” says Clark. She anticipates a more restrained approach to holiday promotions, compared with last year’s price slashing. “The

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Relief from recession-induced penny-pinching

may be a pipe dream, but Paul Kelly believes he has

found one solution—hard work. He should know. As

chief executive offi cer of Selfridges, Kelly oversees

the world’s highest-turnover prestige beauty fl oor and

arguably its most exciting.

“[Times] are tough, but they’re only tough if you

do nothing to make them better,” says Kelly, who

travels between London and Dublin regularly since he

also oversees operations at Ireland’s Brown Thomas

luxury chain, which, like Selfridges and Holt Renfrew

in Canada, is part of Galen Weston’s retail empire. “It

isn’t a cake walk, but you’ve got to do things to make

things happen.”

For 100-year-old Selfridges, that call to action

included preparing the groundwork for an overhaul

of the flagship’s beauty department as financial

institutions around the world crumbled in 2008. Now,

at a time when city traders are mulling new careers as

kindergarten teachers, Kelly is continuing the revamp

of the 20,000-square-foot ground-fl oor space in an

effort to reach his goal of creating the best store in

the world.

“That’s what we’re working on every day,” he says.

“We have a very big and successful beauty business,

so we have a lot of encouragement based on our

business in the past. No one is recession proof. No

one can escape it, but some cope better than others.

We have the confi dence to invest because we believe

in the business and we don’t believe [the recession]

will last forever. When we come out, we will be in a

better position.”

So far, that mentality seems to be working. Industry

sources estimate Selfridges’ Oxford Street beauty

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WWD BEAUTY BIZ 29

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prestige experience. To that end, the brand is working to offer a dual-sales approach, one catering to shoppers who want to browse, another to those who want to “grab and go.”

“The mode of shopping that the company is focusing on involves both replenishment and browsing,” says Breen.

To cater to hurried shoppers, the Lauder-owned Clinique brand outfi tted its installation at Bloomingdale’s 59th Street store in New York with an Express Service counter that promises satisfaction “in a New York Minute.”

Breen notes a woman who walks into a MAC store generally wants to sit and have a makeover. But, she cautions, “If she doesn’t get that, she’ll walk out without anything. She wants service when she wants it.”

There is more opportunity to be had. For instance, Underhill says retailers with glittering fl agships in Manhattan—Saks, Bloomingdale’s, Bergdorf Goodman—have yet to meaningfully reach out to tourists at tony New York City hotels. The city is, after all, the world’s second-largest tourist destination after Paris, he says. Why not take a page from European retailers and offer store tours, personal shopping services, currency exchange information, restaurant menus and a directory in more than one language, he suggests.

There are more ideas to mine abroad. Underhill notes, for instance, that the São Paulo, Brazil–based luxury department store Daslu houses a cosmetic surgery clinic. Botox at Bloomingdale’s? Maybe, he says: “The world of retail will change more in the next fi ve years than it has in the last 50.”

WITH CONTRIBUTIONS FROM JENNY B. FINE

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key theme will be less promotional activity than a year ago,” says Clark, recalling that in November 2008, Saks discounted its designer merchandise by 75 percent heading into the season. “This year, they need to re-create an element of scarcity: If the consumer wants it, she’ll have to buy it immediately, not wait for the sale.”

Blinded by a sea of sale signs, shoppers seem more taken with the notion of value over steep discounts. Their collective practical mind-set has led some established department store beauty brands to break with tradition and loudly tout the prices of their products.

The Estée Lauder Cos. Inc.’s fl agship Estée Lauder brand recently conducted an experiment in the NorthPark mall in Dallas. In both Macy’s and Dillard’s, the brand prominently displayed the price on every item. Conversely, in Neiman Marcus and Nordstrom, pricing was not called out. At the end of the test period, Lauder found the Macy’s-Dillard’s businesses performed 11 percent better than its two luxury-focused peers.

Also in Dillard’s NorthPark store, Lauder put up a header that read, “Mascara from $19.50.” Mascara sales surged 30 percent as a result.

Thia Breen, president of North America for the Estée Lauder Cos. Inc., says the task of reinvention does not fall on department stores alone. “We have to do it with them, too. We’re partners,” she says, noting one of the key questions to emerge out of the global fi nancial meltdown was whether the customer is changing. The answer, she says, is a resounding yes. “She is thinking more about value than she has ever done in the past.”

Included in the value equation is what Lauder refers to as “high touch,” or creating the ultimate

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department in London generates annual sales in the region of $114.4 million

to $130.8 million and is on track to deliver double-digit growth this year.

Kelly attributes Selfridges’ fortunes to his staff’s grit, devoting

the right amount of space to the right brands and an unyielding

determination to remain true to the store’s raison d’être. “Our brand

values are about being extraordinary, inspiring, friendly and captivating—

that’s what we’re all about,” he says, noting in October the Oxford Street

store hosted a pop-up restaurant on its roof fronted by celebrated chef

Pierre Koffmann as well as a wacky counterculture ice-cream counter in

its basement. “All that happening sums up what Selfridges is all about.

It’s about a team of people who remain focused on our vision and doing

it every day,” he says.

The store’s mission statement also includes a Barnum & Bailey–like

devotion to diversion and entertainment for consumers from all walks

of life. “When times are tough, people gravitate toward things they feel

confi dence in and that entertain,” says Kelly, adding the Oxford Street

refurbishment has created a greater sense of space within the beauty

department and sets Selfridges apart as the purveyor of a one-of-a-kind

shopping experience. “There’s an electricity and activity when you walk

in. You know there’s something going on. It’s the heart of the store.”

Indeed, on any given afternoon, the beauty fl oor is a hive of activity.

Facials are on offer in full view of passersby, eyebrow-threading stations

are an angular scrum of raised elbows and myriad makeovers are under

way at bustling counters. “There is great energy,” says Kelly, adding he’s

so confi dent about Selfridges’ appeal that the store is moving away from

gift-with-purchase promotions. “What being a good shopkeeper is all

about is bringing great customer service and entertainment value. That’s

what we set out to do in our stores. Gifts-with-purchase were not adding

anything to the business.”

Even when the Oxford Street’s beauty fl oor revamp is completed,

Kelly has no intention of availing of the store’s countless relaxation

options just yet. “We can never sit back and say we’ve done all

we can do,” he says. “The day you do that, you’re dead. Words like

complacency don’t exist in our vocabulary.”

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BB0911.030-33.Karlie.a;19.indd 30 11/2/09 3:50:29 PM

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WWD BEAUTY BIZ 33

The archetypal girl next door, Karlie Kloss peppers her sentences with hesitant “ums” and breathy girlish giggles. She delights in baking cookies and counts sensibly groomed nails as her ultimate beauty must.

Unlike the typical common-or-garden ingenue, however, the 17-year-old is the model of the moment, a fi xture in the pages of American, Italian and British issues of Vogue; a favorite of photographers such as David Sims, Juergen Teller and Patrick Demarchelier, and a staple on runways such as Marc Jacobs, Donna Karan, Chanel and Alexander McQueen, to name but a few. This fall, Kloss’ ad campaigns include Chloé, Sportmax, Lacoste and Marc Jacobs’ hit Lola fragrance.

“I never imagined myself doing this,” says Kloss, whose meteoric rise has led some to compare her career with those of Gisele Bündchen and Kate Moss. “Doors opened for me and I ran with it,” continues the model, who grew up in Missouri and was fi rst spotted at a charity fashion show there. “I’m taking it day by day.”

That philosophy makes for a grueling agenda. During the spring runway season, Kloss—known for her steely downcast gaze—walked 54 shows and opened seven, including Marc by Marc Jacobs, Yohji Yamamoto and John Galliano. “It was a mixture of unbelievably nervous and thrilled,” says Kloss, recalling fi nding out she was to open the Dior show in Paris. “I think that everybody at some point has butterfl ies. It’s a good thing, as it reminds us to do our best, that we’re all human and nobody is perfect.”

Her admirers beg to differ. “Karlie has the poise of a dancer; her silhouette is so graceful. She moves wonderfully well,” says Jean Paul Gaultier. “She can wear anything—she is beautiful in couture, beautiful in prêt-à-porter. Karlie inspires and is inspired.”

“She’s one of those girls, like a Naomi, like a Linda, like a Shalom,” muses Galliano, who has tapped Kloss for Dior’s spring campaign. “When I met her for the fi rst time, I just went quiet.”

Like Galliano’s list of supes, Kloss possesses an iconic beauty distinct from the doll-like and Slavic aesthetics that have been all the rage in fashion for the past few years. “She seems to possess chameleonlike qualities,” says makeup artist Pat McGrath, “and morphs beautifully to the specifi cations of each job she takes on, from casual all-American wholesome looks to all-out stunningly glamorous in couture evening gowns.”

To wit: Her transformation here into two key looks from the season—boho ballerina and punk princess—in a matter of hours, courtesy of hairstylist Paul Hanlon and makeup artist Hannah Murray.

For her part, despite already being a seasoned pro, Kloss seems more than a little amazed by the company she keeps. As well as trumpeting their design talents, she refers to Galliano as “an amazing guy” and Gaultier as “a cool guy,” for instance.

“It’s incredible that I get to be in the same room with Grace Coddington and legends and icons who have shaped the indus-try and the world in many ways,” she enthuses. “I want to keep growing in my career and branching out.”

Like her role model, Christy Turlington, Kloss is looking into founding a charity dedicated to underprivileged children and babies, and is mulling how to broaden her horizons within the fashion industry. In the meantime, however, there are other pressing matters to attend to—namely, a batch of cupcakes to fete her mother’s birthday.

HAIR BY PAUL HANLON AND MAKEUP BY HANNAH MURRAY, BOTH

AT JULIAN WATSON AGENCY; MANICURE BY ANATOLE RAINEY AT

PREMIER HAIR AND MAKEUP; STYLED BY CLARE RICHARDSON.

PRODUCED BY CLEVER PRODUCTIONS.

“SHE SEEMS TO POSSESS CHAMELEONLIKE QUALITIES,” SAYS PAT MCGRATH,

“AND MORPHS BEAUTIFULLY TO THE SPECIFICATIONS OF EACH JOB SHE TAKES

ON, FROM CASUAL ALL-AMERICAN TO ALL-OUT STUNNINGLY GLAMOROUS.”

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34 WWD BEAUTY BIZ

what I have in my house. I just did my dressing room [with my former personal assistant who now designs interiors] and that was quite a good creative process. It’s heaven. We did it together. I wanted it to be a space, not just a closet. I wanted it to be a room you could feel comfortable in and hang out in without just being a wardrobe.DO YOU HAVE A MENTOR?

My close friends, probably. There are lots of women I look up to, but mentors are someone you talk to and not just admire. A lot of my friends that I trust are my mentors. They would say, “Oh no, Kate, that’s not a good look.” DO YOU HAVE A MOTTO?

There are loads. There’s “Nothing tastes as good as skinny feels.” That’s one of them. You try and remember, but it never works. WHAT DO YOU DO TO RELAX?

I’ve got a steam room now, I go in there. It’s heaven. I steam and then go to the relaxation room and cool off. In the country, I go for walks and hang out and make jam.YOU’RE A BUSINESS WOMAN

AS WELL AS A FIXTURE IN

FRONT OF THE CAMERA.

WHAT’S THE SECRET TO

EFFECTIVE MULTITASKING?

I think women are really good at multitasking. Men just cannot do it. My boyfriend cannot talk on the phone and [answer] if I ask him a question or get dressed at the same time. I can do all of that—talk on the phone, answer a question, get dressed and put my makeup on all at the same time. Women just do, don’t they? I think it’s something to do with babies. When you have a child, you have to be able to multitask. IT’S BEEN RUMORED THAT

YOU’RE KEEN TO BUILD A

CAREER IN MUSIC. IS THAT

TRUE?

No. I like to dabble. I’ve got lots of friends who are musicians, so if they ask me to do things, I’ll go and do it for a laugh. I don’t want to be a pop star or

anything like that. WHOSE STYLE DO

YOU ADMIRE?

Loulou de la Falaise, Amanda Harlech and Catherine Deneuve.HIGH

MAINTENANCE

OR LOW?

Defi nitely not [high maintenance].

HOW DO YOU DEFINE BEAUTY?

It sounds really corny, but I think that if you’re beautiful inside, it shows on the outside for sure. You can be a pretty face, but if you’re not a nice person, it just doesn’t work. I’m not traditionally a beauty, but apparently people think I’m all right. If you’re a nice person, it defi nitely helps.WHAT INSPIRES YOU?

Films and books, lots of different things. And music. HOW DO YOU

CHANNEL YOUR

CREATIVITY?

I write sometimes, or I’ll draw. It all depends what’s around. If I’m with my daughter, I’ll paint. I make jam. It’s kind of creative when you make jam. In the country, I get creative with

For the last 20 years, Kate Moss has been the world’s most famous model, celebrated equally for her killer sense of

style and striking looks. Now, at 35, her influence is more far reaching than ever, as her interests have grown to include

designing a fashion line with Topshop and collaborating on a hair care brand with hairstylist James Brown, plus developing

an expanding collection of fragrances with Coty. (Note to marketers: She’s also keen to work on a makeup line.) Her latest scent, dubbed Vintage, plays on her famed fashion

sense and love of clothing from bygone eras. WWD Beauty Biz recently spoke with the supermodel about her very

fashionable life, her myriad inspirations and why she loves being in a jam.

BY BRID COSTELLO

LAST CALL

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MAR

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THE WAIF THAT ROARED

01 Kate Moss in the window of Top Shop to celebrate the launch of her line.

02 Her new scent, Vintage.

01

02

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Stepspotlight

into the

DAILY COVERAGE IN PRINT & ONLINE: FEBRUARY 11 – MARCH 11

N E W Y O R K L O N D O N M I L A N P A R I S

FALL 2010 COLLECTION SEASON

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For more information on advertising, contact Christine Guilfoyle, publisher, at 212-630-4737, or your WWD salesperson.

hello dolly! - pmcwwd.files.wordpress.com beauty biz 1 special! spring 2010 beauty preview from...

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